Related Links:
Horizon 202/205/photos (Alfred's Camera Pages) [10/2002]
Nimslo 3D Camera to XXXpan Panoramic Mods
Panoramic Camera Pages
Plaubel Veriwide 100 MF Camera
Postcard Panoramic Homebrew Camera

• Why buy a Horizon 202 panoramic camera?
  • cheap - ~$200 USD (factory); ~$250+ (Ebay, used); ~$375+ USD (new)
  • film - uses standard 35mm film (any speed)
  • coverage - an astonishing 120 degrees horizontally (or vertically)
  • weight - only 1 1/2 pounds (0.7 kg)
  • shutter speeds - range of slow (1/2;1/4;1/8th) and fast (1/60-1/250th) shutter speeds
  • Lens - sharp, multicoated, 28mm f/2.8 stops down to f/16
  • bright finder - very large and easy to see and compose
  • bubble level - visible from top and inside camera
  • film reminder - slide in 35mm box flap into rear camera holder
  • battery - none required
  • kit - includes manual, set of clip-on filters, carrying case
  • availability - lots for sale in USA and via EBAY from Russia
  • fun! - funky camera for producing unique ultrawide panoramic images
  
  

• What are the cons of the Horizon 202?
  • no lightmeter (you have to use sunny-16 or lightmeter..)
  • no battery - no electronics, no autofocus, no auto-exposure etc.
  • no flash - inherent in panoramic and swing lens camera designs
  • flare issues (it is 120 degree rotating lens, so smears flare)
  • tiny rewind knob is annoying, bites into thumb
  • its Russian made, so you may have higher repair/shipping costs
  • resale value may suffer from reputation, fears you are dumping a lemon
  • close subjects may exhibit "cigar" style distortion from swinging lens
  • vertical panoramics tend to have converging verticals and leaning buildings and poles
  
  

• What is the coverage of the Horizon 202?
  

  The camera covers 120 degrees horizontally by swinging the 28mm f/2.8 lens through an arc, using a clockwork mechanism. The vertical coverage remains the usual vertical coverage for a 28mm lens, circa 46 degrees. The horizontal coverage of a fixed 28mm lens on a 35mm SLR is only 65 degrees. Again, thanks to the swinging lens design, the actual horizontal coverage is expanded to a full 120 degrees. The "cost" of this extra coverage is more film area is needed, specifically 24mm x 58mm instead of the usual 24x36mm of standard 35mm SLRs.
  

• How does this coverage compare to medium format lenses?
  
  • Horizon 202 swing lens panoramic - 28mm lens - 120 degrees horiz. [$250+ USD used (Ebay..)]
  • Hasselblad Superwide SW/C - 38mm lens - 73 degrees horiz. [$1,000+ USD used]
  • Kowa 6/66 6x6cm SLR - 35mm lens (widest in 6x6cm SLRs) - 77 degrees horiz. [$1,500+ USD used)
  • Plaubel Veriwide 6x10cm fixed lens panoramic - 47mm lens - 90 degrees horiz. [$650+ USD used]
  • Fuji G617 with 105mm f/8 lens - 6x17cm fixed lens panoramic - 78 degrees horiz. (29 deg. vertical) [$2,500+ USD used]
  • Hasselblad Xpan with 30mm lens - 24mm x 65mm panoramic - 95 degrees horiz. (44 deg. vertical) [$3,000+ USD used]
  • Fuji GSW690 with 65mm lens - 6x9cm fixed lens - 65 degrees horiz. (47 deg. vertical) [$750+ USD used]
  
  

• How does the Horizon 202 compare to more expensive panoramic models?
  

  As the above listing makes clear, none of the often recommended fixed lens very wide or ultrawide cameras can come close to the Horizon 202's horizontal coverage of 120 degrees. There are very few lenses such as the 35mm and 45mm APO Grandagons which can even potentially come close to the Horizon 202's 120 degree horizontal coverage (circa 116 and 102 degrees horizontally respectively on 6x12cm formats). Still, fixed lens cameras have uses such as action photography and different distortion effects which make them interesting and useful in their own right.
  

  The Horizon's 120 degrees is modest compared to some of the other swing lens panoramics using 35mm or medium format 120 rollfilm which cover horizontal angles of 140 and even 150 degrees. So the Horizon 202 is the "baby" in the swinging lens pantheon. But it is also the "baby" in size and weight, with other cameras such as the Widelux and Noblex 35mm and 120 rollfilm models being much more expensive and heavier to carry.
  

  The 360 degree rotating cameras cover three times the Horizon's 120 degree coverage at maximum rotation (i.e., 360 degrees). In a 360 degree rotation camera, the camera moves in a complete 360 degree circle (or more) around the lens node. The film is pulled in the opposite direction at a carefully regulated speed past a narrow (1-2mm) slit to expose the film. The Roundshot, with its simple wind-up mechanics and one speed (adjust for lighting with film speed selection), is the only really budget competitor here.
  

• How do you focus?
  

  You don't. The camera lens is designed so infinity is always in focus. As you stop down from f/2.8 to f/16, more and more of the foreground comes into focus. At f/16, subjects only three feet or so from the camera lens to infinity will be in focus. The manual has a handy table worth photocopying and sticking on the camera back.
  

• How many exposures do you get?
  

  Depends on the original film length, with 36 exposure rolls giving circa 22 or 23 Horizon exposures, while 24 exposure rolls may provide 13 or 14 Horizon exposures (and bonus sized 27 exposure rolls a bit more). Again, this is a relatively high number of shots for a panoramic camera. Some 360 degree rotating panoramic cameras only get 3 shots per roll. So you can shoot a lot without frequent reloading, with film costs only about 50% more per shot.
  

• How do I load the film?
  

  Just follow the instructions in the manual and the diagram stamped into the open back showing how to thread film under the rollers. Start with 10-12cm (4-5") of film to make it easy to thread under the first roller and then slip in the film cartridge (rewind crank must be out). The manual suggests pressing in on the rewind button on the bottom of the camera to make it easier to push or thread film under the sprocketed film roller and under and up on the film takeup spool. I usually put a small (1/2" or 1+ cm) bend in the film to make it catch on the film takeup spool. If you push too much film onto this takeup spool slot, it will be really hard to rewind it out. So don't go overboard on putting film into the slot.
  

• What's the best secret tip not in the manual for users?
  

  Sssh! Can you keep the secret? Be sure to rewind the film crank knob when starting out (and periodically during shooting). Thanks to Kelvin Lee ([email protected]) for this tip! This tip makes sense when you see that there is only a rudimentary indentation in plastic on the back to serve as a pressure plate of sorts. Tightening the film rewind crank helps ensure that the film is held in tighter registration to the circular film track.
  

• What is the best "secret feature" on the Horizon 202?
  

  According to Marco Pauck's Horizon 202 pages, you can use a fourth shutter speed setting often not marked on the camera. Some cameras will have a faster hidden setting, while others will have a slower setting (and a few may have both). Models produced before 1991 had four settings, including 1/15th and 1/30th second settings. A bit of experimenting should let you use this secret feature to extend your Horizon's range. In other cases as on my Horizon, a white "500" on the fourth position announces I have a 1/500th second setting. Enjoy!
  

• How come I got more on the film than I saw in the viewfinder?
  

  The viewfinder shows you only 110 degrees of horizontal coverage, while the camera shoots 120 degrees or an extra 5 degrees or so on each side. But beware of the vertical limits, as there is only a degree or so on the narrow vertical edge that isn't shown. Since you don't have any really accurate vertical alignment bullseye for your eye, you shouldn't compose to the very edge vertically.
  

• What comes in the standard kit?
  

  I got a set of three filters with clip-on holders (UV, green, ND 2 stop), manuals (russian and english versions), a carrying case with adjustable long strap (and small front pocket), a strap and hardware (assemble yourself), and a plastic handle plus the Horizon 202 itself.
  

• What are the Horizon's shutter speeds? F/stops?
  

  The shutter speeds sets are 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8th second (slow speeds) and 1/60th, 1/125th, and 1/250th second (fast speeds). This may seem like you are missing quite a few settings. But many panoramic cameras such as the 360 degree Roundshot have only one shutter speed, with only two or three shutter speeds on some much more costly swinging lens models too. So having six shutter speeds is actually a real plus. Thanks to the range of the f/stops, from f/2.8 to f/16 (continuous, with click stops), you can trade off fast versus slow shutter speeds and film speed (ASA/ISO) to get acceptable exposures in most situations.
  

  For nighttime photography, plan on using very fast film, as you are limited to a maximum of f/2.8 at 1/2 second exposures. In bright daylight photography, you can use 1/250th second at f/16, perhaps along with a neutral density filter for films faster than ASA/ISO 400.
  

• Why do you get a "handle"?
  

  With a 120 degree angle of coverage, equal to a third of a circle, putting your fingers on the front of the camera would put them into the picture too. So you are supplied with a plastic handle (about 1 1/2" round by six inches or so long, with a sliding lock). You remove a round cap in the base of the camera, and insert and twist the handle. A small pin pops up to hold the handle in place.
  

  Now with the left hand holding the bottom mounted handle, your left hand is below the swinging lens view. Your right hand is needed to trip the top mounted shutter release. The trick here is to hold the camera so your right hand and fingers don't drift into the right side of the picture. I was surprised that it only took a few rolls of film to get the hang of it.
  

  A related problem is that the supplied case is too short to allow you to leave the handle on and zip the case shut. Duh??! The case is also tapered and smaller at the base. I don't like the idea of messing with the handle every time I open and close the case, so I just leave it on. The camera goes in upside down, the handle facing up. This position gives me space to put in a Luna-pro F light meter (reflected, ambient, and flash meter). I keep a zip lock bag (with optional silica gel dessicant) to help block dust during storage and in case of a serious rain shower.
  

  The small velcro closed compartment at the front of the case is barely able to hold three rolls of film in a zip lock baggie (film canisters are too big). I stuff a few rolls in the bottom of the bag, under the camera, which I put in upside down. The air spaces around the finder on each side are big enough to hide a roll of film (in canisters, to keep dust from getting in and scratching film).
  

  The last bag feature worth noting is the prominent "ZENIT" logo on the bag. I am betting that nobody will want to steal this camera bag or its contents. Fellow photographers will give you commiserating looks, and suggest you get a "real" camera like their point and shoots.
  

• What about tripod use?
  

  The Horizon 202 has a 1/4" US standard tripod socket at the bottom of the camera body (near center). The shutter release button is center threaded to take a standard cable release. The manual recommends you use a tripod or other support and cable release for the slower speed shots (i.e., 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 second shots).
  

• What about camera shake during the long swing lens rotation time?
  

  I could hardly believe my surprisingly sharp handheld shots (e.g., at 1/125th second) I made running some initial camera tests. The reason is the camera lens takes a rather long time to swing from one side of the camera to the other, long in camera shake terms - circa 1/15th second or so. But the trick here is that the slit shutter only exposes a narrow slit at a time, providing the effectively short shutter speeds (e.g., 1/250th second through 1/60th second).
  

  The camera manual strongly warns you to not shake or jerk the camera when pushing the shutter button. Evidently, the shutter release button does just that - releases the shutter. So on my Horizon 202, I hold the shutter release button down until the entire rotation is done when using fast speeds. At the least, this should somewhat reduce camera shake and vibration. When pressing the shutter, I use just enough force applied slowly to make it fire, rather than pressing down hard on it. Still, there seems to be a lot more potential for camera shake, so use of a tripod and cable release might help with critical shots.
  

• What is a swinging lens and why is it used here?
  

  A swinging lens is just that - a lens that swings or rotates around on its nodal point. By swinging the lens around this optical nodal point, the lens projects a sharply focused and minimally distorted image onto a circular plane behind the lens. You simply have to build a circular film track to match the lens and produce a sharp image.
  

  One big advantage of using a swinging lens or short-rotation camera is the relative lack of lens distortions compared to anything close in an ultrawide angle lens with similar 120 degree coverage. You can also use a relatively low cost wide angle lens (e.g., the 28mm f/2.8 in the Horizon). The reason for picking a 28mm lens is the relatively good coverage of 46 degrees vertically (e.g., for taller buildings and scenics). By swinging the lens, you get less distortions and nearly double the horizontal angle of coverage (120 degrees versus 65 degrees with a 28mm lens on a 35mm SLR). [see "cigar" distortion below]
  

• What is "cigar" distortion?
  

  Cigar distortion is an effect most often seen in relatively close subjects. Consider a wall just six feet away. The lens is just six feet away from the wall right in front of the camera. But the part of the wall to either side will be progressively farther away (e.g., 8 feet, 12 feet, 20 feet...). As with a regular 28mm wide angle lens (on a 35mm SLR), objects which are farther away appear significantly smaller (i.e., the foreground dominance effect of wide angle lenses). So the part of the wall directly in front of the camera lens will be bigger than either end of the wall. The resulting shape distortion is cigar shaped, and so it is called "cigar" distortion. When you see this kind of distortion, you can infer that you may be seeing a swing-lens photograph.
  

  The cure for cigar distortion is to avoid having such items in the close foreground of your photos. Then again, some of us like this effect, and enjoy experimenting with it as a major justification for using a swing lens camera!
  

• How can I reduce the apparent distortion when viewing panoramic prints?
  

  Consider curving the print! This trick restores the original situation, and you will feel like you are seeing the original scene. This trick is very similar to viewing a fisheye photo up close, so you see the more natural image from this closer than normal viewing distance. [Thanks to [email protected] (ZorziM) for this tip posting]
  

• What about vertical shot distortions?
  

  If you shoot cityscapes, the Horizon 202 is the answer to getting photos of tall buildings from across the street. But by tilting the camera upward to get in the entire building, you create serious convergence effects. Here again, the top of the building is much farther from the camera than the first floors. As with cigar distortion, you get smaller images from farther away with the 28mm wide angle lens being used. So the tops of buildings are smaller and straight lines converge. But in most cases, to get an undistorted image, I would have to hire a 'copter to take aerial photos to get an undistorted image. Not in my budget, so I'm happy with the vertical panoramic photos from the Horizon 202.
  

• What about "end of the earth" distortion? "bowl" distortion?
  

  When you keep the Horizon 202 level, using the built-in bubble level, you avoid both of these distortions. If you point the camera upward, you get "end of the earth" distortion. The horizon curves downward at the edges, forming a curve whose magnitude depends on the degree of upward tilt. Unfortunately, you may often have to nudge the camera upward a bit to get the top of taller subjects like buildings into the photo, and avoid cutting them off. Fortunately, we are adjusted to seeing fisheye and other photos in which such effects are visible. As Meehan notes in his Panoramic Photography book, photos from space showing the earth's curve may have helped make such "end of the earth" distortion more acceptable to modern viewers too.
  

  With bowl distortion, you point the camera downward. The distortion flips, with the edges rising above the center, similar to a semi-fisheye photo. This effect is rather more unnatural and less acceptable.
  

  Still, playing with such distortion effects in your photos remains one good reason for buying a Horizon 202 and experimenting in your photography. I find the effect of curved subjects (e.g., fountains) and curved lines to produce some interesting effects when interpreted through the distortions of a swinging lens camera. By shooting a rectilinear lens (e.g., 14mm Sigma or Hasselblad superwide 38mm biogon) in combination with the Horizon 202, you can get a feeling for how the swinging lens cameras distort or interpret the world. And you can always just shoot with a leveled camera to minimize these effects if you don't like them as I do!
  

• Why do you recommend the Horizon 202 more for outdoor than indoor use?
  

  Used outdoors, with subjects like landscapes and cityscapes some distance (e.g., beyond 15 feet), and carefully leveling the camera, you can get some very nice panoramic photographs with minimal distortions.
  

  Used indoors, especially in relatively confined areas, you are more likely to run into problems controlling distortion (e.g., cigar distortion - see above discussion).
  

  Consider a photo of a room, in which you try to get two walls with a corner in the middle shot. The corner will be farther from the lens in the center of its swing than the edges of the walls (in most cases). So you end up with some distortion of central lines near the corner running in the photo. At the edges, you may get the opposite distortion. The results can be unnatural looking since we "know" how rooms are supposed to look.
  

  In addition, you can't adjust focus with the Horizon 202. So you have to use small f/stops like f/16 to get subjects as close as a meter distant. If the room is small, anything closer than three feet (1 m.) will be relatively poorly focused, even at f/16 the smallest stop. Ooops! You could use a diopter filter in theory, but finding one for a Horizon 202 would require a custom creation.
  

• How can I use the Horizon 202 indoors, and with closer focus, with example photos?
  

  The short answer is to fit a small glass fractional diopter lens into the Horizon 202 filter mount, as shown here to produce great results like these:
  

  
  Sample Horizon 202 Shot - Our Thanks to Olivier - [email protected]!!
  
  

  Oliver ([email protected]) experimented with using fractional diopter lenses of +1 diopter, +.5 diopter (2 meters), and +.12 diopter (8 meters) with very satisfying results:
  

  See Sailing Mast Panoramic Shot, Sailing Cabin(closer focusing), View of Mast, View of Crab and Boat along Shore, Sailing Cabin Chess Game, and Ship's Interior shots by Olivier - Thanks!
  

• Why is this close focusing ability for the Horizon 202 such a big deal?
  

  The reason this is such a big deal is that the Widelux panoramic 35mm camera has very similar specifications to the Horizon 202/202s series. But the Widelux is focused at a closer distance (a few meters versus infinity on the Horizon 202). So by using a simple pop-in diopter lens series, as Oliver has done here, enables you to emulate the close focusing ability of the Widelux panoramic cameras for a third of the cost. But the reverse is not so easy, making the Horizon 202 more flexible (esp. thanks to its extended range of shutter speeds versus the Widelux).
  

• What about smearing flare?
  

  The Horizon lens rotates around, changing through a whole series of angles facing each subject as it moves around. What if there is a bright or glaring highlight in the scene, such as a reflection of the sun? Might the moving lens to subject angle changes enable flare to bounce around in the lens? The result could be a more "smeared" blob of flare than you might get with a fixed lens shot of the same scene.
  

  In one early test shot of a tall glass building, the sun's image near the edge of the film image produced a flare spot on the film. The problem with this tendency is that this particular flare spot extended into the previous shot. Ouch! My guess is that some flare light bounced off the surface and base of the [fujicolor 100] film as a mirror of sorts. The moving lens and bright light source bounced enough light along the film surface to cause a bright flare spot in the edges of the previous image. The separation between exposures on film is only a few millimeters, versus the flare being circa 10mm+ long. If you look at the lack of baffling before the film rolls under the spindle roller, you can see how this could easily happen.
  

  I mention this as a caution, especially if you see a very bright light source in the edge of your shot. If you have a once in a lifetime shot on the previous exposure, you might want to shoot a non-glaring subject next rather than risk a flare prone shot?
  

• What about flare in the viewfinder?
  

  Who cares? The viewfinder produces a really neat circular ring of light when you point it directly at the setting sun (e.g., in flare tests). But since this effect won't end up on the film, you can just ignore it.
  

• What is a slit shutter?
  

  The slit shutter is also just that, a vertical slit that can be varied in size, and which acts as a shutter. If you think about a focal plane shutter, it has two curtains, one of which opens to start the exposure as it travels across the film plane, and the other curtain follows at a given distance to end the exposure. So you have an effective slit which is traveling across the film (at the higher speeds anyway; at lower speeds the curtains may stay open for longer periods). The slit shutter is a vertical slit which travels in synchronization with the lens as it rotates through its 120 degree path. A narrow slit corresponds to 1/250th second, while a wider slit provides more exposure (as with 1/60th second). As the slit shutter rotates behind the lens, the lens "paints" its image on the small vertical strip of exposed film, forming the image.
  

  At the slower shutter speeds (1/8th to 1/2 second), a clockwork mechanism is used to produce the timed slow motion rotation movement with the various shutter slits. Since there are three slit sizes, there are three shutter speeds on fast (1/250th, 1/125th, 1/60th second) and slow (1/8th, 1/4th, 1/2 second) speed settings.
  

• What about flare?
  

  The 28mm lens in the Horizon is coated (possibly multicoated), but many russian optics are notable for their modest or minimal lens coatings. And as noted above, the rotating lens has a higher propensity to smear flare from bright lighting sources onto the film. I should also highlight that a lens covering 120 degrees has much more chance to get the sun and other light sources and glare highlights into the scene than more typical 35mm SLR lenses with much less coverage.
  

  If you have the option, the simple solution is to schedule your shooting during cloudy days, especially if you use slide film. You will avoid deep black shadows and excessive contrast, as well as flare from reflected sun or direct sunlight.
  

• What film should I use?
  

  For daylight shots, you can readily use color print films (and B+W) of 100 ASA/ISO or even 200 ASA/ISO within the limits of 1/250th to 1/60th second fast shutter speeds and f/2.8 to f/16 apertures. Print films have more exposure latitude than slide films, which can come in handy when the 120 degree scene varys a lot in brightness. In darker situations of shooting sunsets or mixed twilight plus city lighting, the slower speed limits (of 1/2 second) may benefit from faster films. Reciprocity effects generally aren't major with exposures limited to a half second or so. The slower speeds are slow enough to provide some smoothing of flowing water or waterfalls.
  

• What about slide films?
  

  You can use slide films, but be aware that you generally have less latitude than with many color print films. Be be sure to consider highlights from the entire 120 degree scan when setting exposure. More bracketing may be helpful too.
  

• Why do you like the 58mm film length size of the Horizon 202?
  

  Wonder why the Horizon 202 features a 58mm long film image? The 58mm length is the same size as the popular 6x6cm medium format (actually 56mm by 56mm square). So low cost enlargers for 6x6cm can be used with your Horizon 202 negatives to make panoramic prints. Similarly, reasonably available medium format slide projectors can be used with masked mounts to project these 24mm x 58mm panoramic slides. Simply stunning! For larger film formats, you have to find rarer and usually more expensive enlargers and lenses (e.g., 4x5" or even 5x7" enlargers). Slide projectors past 6x7cm are often either very old or very expensive specialty items. So the Horizon's 24x58mm format is well chosen.
  

• How do you use the shutter speeds?
  

  You have two sets, which are selected by a switch by the film rewinding crank, and color coded dots which match the shutter speed colors (tan = slow speed, white = fast speeds). It is worth noting that you can change this knob at any time, without breaking the camera shutter. On some russian designed cameras such as some 35mm rangefinders and even medium format SLRs like the Kiev-88, changing the shutter speeds when the shutter isn't cocked can or will break the camera. No problem here on the Horizon 202. You can't change the shutter speeds when the shutter isn't cocked, as these controls are not accessible until you first cock the shutter. Then they swing out into view and can be set or reset.
  

• Why can't I use a flash?
  

  As the swinging lens rotates, a narrow shutter slit also rotates inside a circular track in front of the film. This rotating slit is varied in size to change the exposure (e.g., wide for 1/2 second and 1/60th second settings, narrow for 1/8th and 1/250th second settings). Only a small fraction of the film is ever exposed at one time. So a strobe or flashbulb would only light up that part of the scene being recorded, but not the entire 120 degree panoramic scene. You would end up with a narrow bright band of flash exposed film, and the rest too dark. So the camera doesn't have a flash synch terminal.
  

• How can I test the camera?
  

  The obvious answer is to shoot some film in it and have that film developed. Most minilabs can't print 58mm long true panoramic images, but have to send out such film to a regional or pro lab that can. But for camera testing, you may be able to use regular slide or even print film, and just have it developed but not mounted or printed. By shooting both during bright daylight, and during the waning evening hours near sunset, you should be able to try out all the various f/stops and shutter speeds on a single roll of film. You can also check for errors by exposing two shots side by side, varying just the aperture and shutter speeds to maintain an even exposure. The blue sky can also be shot for a test of light falloff and banding (e.g., vertically with the 28mm lens at f/2.8). More camera and lens testing tips are at our camera testing pages.
  

  Evaluate the film carefully with a good quality loupe. Besides the usual issues of exposure, you are chiefly looking for "banding". Banding is a band of under or over-exposed film which looks like a darker or brighter band of exposure (thin but running the 24mm width of the film) than the rest of the image nearby (e.g., vertical in a horizontal landscape image). Banding is usually caused by worn gears or more often dirt in the clockwork mechanism of the camera, causing "stuttering". Stuttering in a swing lens camera is somewhat like stuttering in speech, there is a less than smooth lens swing which will result in banding problems on the film. Unfortunately, curing this problem is expensive, as the camera may need disassembly for cleaning and replacement parts.
  

• What about camera care?
  

  I suggest that you be a bit more paranoid about your Horizon 202 camera than the typical rugged pro Japanese SLR. In other words, keep it as dust free as you can, so dust or grit doesn't get in and cause banding and require an expensive ($100+ USD) cleanup disassembly or repair. Avoid vibration and jarring, keeping the camera in the case or other padded protection when traveling or not in use. You are unlikely to get fingerprints on the recessed lenses, so cleaning of the finder is the main optical cleaning you will do.
  

• Should the camera be stored with the shutter cocked or uncocked?
  

  An important point is to not store the camera with the shutter cocked!!!
  

• Where can I find a Horizon 202 for sale?
  

  See Chuck Lau's Kiev price guide for a handy listing of vendor sites with links. The USA based official importer Kiev/USA tends to be the highest priced source, but they also reported to do a better job of screening or testing cameras than many of the individual vendors on EBAY.
  

  I tend to recommend buying russian and chinese cameras with a return warranty guarantee. Many posters have discovered problems with their cameras in limited initial usage or even just out of the box. You can also save a bit of money by buying directly from Russian sources, including the factory, but part of your savings are eaten up in mailing fees and transaction costs (e.g., wiring money overseas via Western Union for $25 USD etc.). If you have to send the camera back in a swap, you will usually have to pay shipping, sometimes both ways. The camera you get in trade may be better, or maybe not, and then you have to do the whole cycle again. But with a bit of persistence, and luck, you may be able to get a good buy this way.
  

• Where Can I find more information about the Horizon 202?
  

  See Marco Pauck Horizon 202 pages, including list of related articles and pages, as well as dealers and sellers.
  

  See Horizon 202 versus Widelux and Noblex 135 at W.J. Markerink's pages.
  

• What about the new medium format Horizon 205?
  

  After a long wait and many promises and hints at photo industry conventions, the Horizon 205 PC has finally made it into production and sale. That's the good news. The bad news is that the price is a stellar $2,500 USD from USA dealers. Ouch! This price is very close to the price of other comparable medium format swing lens panoramic cameras by noted European and Japanese makers.
  

• What about the Horizont? FT-2, FT-3?
  

  The Horizont was a heavier metal version of the Horizon 202, with other forebears like the FT-2 and FT-3 stretching off to the original swing lens cameras of World War II vintage. These cameras were designed to assess the damage inflicted by massive russian artillery barages of that era. With older and especially Soviet era cameras, it would be well to carefully test the camera for problems before purchase (unless for a collection).
  

• How can I arrange to project these Horizon 202 slides?
  

  See medium format slide projectors pages for information on 6x6cm projectors capable of projecting these 56-58mm long panoramic images in masked medium format slide holders.
  

• My local lab charges too much for processing panoramic prints; what can I do?
  

  Look into mail order processing labs, which will often do developing without cutting film for slides or prints at modest prices. A few labs cater to panoramic photographers and produce panoramic prints at prices that vary with services and quality and size.
  

• How can I print these panoramic prints myself?
  

  If you have a 6x6cm medium format enlarger, then you can simply mask your film carrier for this panoramic film format. That is one of the advantages of the Horizon's choice of 56-58mm as the film length in its format. A poster's tip suggests that ends of photo paper rolls used in minilabs are often available at low cost from minilabs in 10 inch widths (for making batches of 8x10" prints). You can also use our tips on making PVC tube developing tanks, or use open tank development tricks.
  

  Another option is to scan the images to a computer file, either on your own film or flatbed scanner able to scan 24mm x 58mm lengths (or make multiple scans in 35mm film scanner and merge shots in software). Some labs will also scan in such panoramic and medium format sized images for a fee (often $15 and up) and onto disk or CDROM. After software manipulations (e.g., in Photoshop), you can print out panoramic photos on many color inkjet printers using continuous feed paper. You simply have to reset your printer's defaults to print longer length prints from your panoramic files. You may also be able to overlap prints and create larger composite inkjet prints, depending on your setup. The big advantage here, if you already have the scanner and printer and software and skills, is the cost will be minimized while your artistic control will be maximized.
  

• What is the advantage of spending kilobucks more on a swinging lens camera with 10 to 20 degrees more coverage?
  

  Depends on the camera, but that extra 10 to 20 degrees of coverage might come in handy in a few tight situations. More frequently, you will probably find that you can produce a 360 degree panoramic image using four Horizon 202 shots. You need four shots to get enough overlap to allow the software programs to detect and stitch together the images into a computerized 360 degree panoramic picture. With cameras with another 10 to 20 degrees of coverage (e.g., Widelux F7), you only need 3 images, or one less shot. If you intend to do a few thousand such 360 degree computer stitched images, the film savings might be worth worrying about? ;-)
  

Related Postings

For those interested in 35mm panoramic machine prints from the Horizon, 24 X 58 mm or Widelux film formats, and you live in California, I found a Kodak lab in San Leandro that does inexpensive 4 1/2 X 12 inch prints. The lab is in San Leandro, Calif. (no mail order) however they pick up at various locations in California as follows:

Sacramento, Red Bluff, Santa Rosa, Lakeport, Fairfield, Fresno, Visalia, Monterey, San Francisco, San Rafael, just to name a few. Some of the chain stores they service are Longs Drugs, Ritz Camera, Wolf Camera, and others. The key is making sure they are sent out to the Kodak Processing labs in San Leandro, and not Sacramento or Manteca. The San Leandro lab has modified their machines to print the Horizon and Widelux formats. You must write in Special instructions (HORIZON or Widelux, and 35mm panoramic 4 X 12 prints. The actual prints are 4 1/2 X 12 inch, and are charged $.59 each plus procesing (2.25) each roll.

I also tried Thompson photo in Knoxville. They did a great job on the prints, which were 4 X 12 @ .90 each plus $1.95 process.

Another lab that has had their machines modified is Custom Panoramic Lab, Boca Raton. The prints are printed on five inch paper and cost $1.50 each plus $2.25 process.

I did attempt to send a test roll to the Kodak processing lab in Manteca, Ca. but they screwed them up, with a photogram explaining that there were overlapped images, improper film advance, and a need for camera service. You can imagine what the negatives look like!

So if your in Calif. and in need of Horizon machine prints, and you can wait about 8 - 10 days, the San Leandro Kodak processing lab is a best bet. If not, Thompson photo and Custom Panoramic for mail order, give great machine prints.

Has anyone else found any other labs willing to do inexpensive machine prints?????

Jeff Weisenburger

From Panoramic Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001
From: Stan Patz [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizon 205pc

>I've got a new 35mm Horizon camera since august and I've been working a  lot
>with  it taking landcapes around my place, in northern Spain.. Europe...
>:-). I'm afraid I cannot recommend this camera. In my humble opinio it is
>not a very reliable camera.

------------

To David and the group,

I agree about the poor quality control at the Horizon factory. I went through three new Horizon 202s before getting one that works well (for now).

It is cute, compact and inexpensive, but I wasted a huge amount of time testing and I still lost some valuable vacation pix.

I advise anybody planning to spend $300 to $2,000 plus on any Horizon product to make sure they get an absolute money back guarantee!

Stan Patz NYC

[email protected]
www.PatzImaging.com

From Panoramic Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001
From: Clyde Soles [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizon 205pc

>>I've got a new 35mm Horizon camera since august and I've been working a  lot
>>with  it taking landcapes around my place, in northern Spain.. Europe...
>>:-). I'm afraid I cannot recommend this camera. In my humble opinio it  is
>>not a very reliable camera.
>
>I agree about the poor quality control at the Horizon factory. I
>went through three new Horizon 202s before getting one that works
>well (for now). It is cute, compact and inexpensive, but I wasted a
>huge amount of time testing and I still lost some valuable vacation
>pix.
>
>I advise anybody planning to spend $300 to $2,000 plus on any
>Horizon product to make sure they get an absolute money back    
>guarantee!

Apparently the quality has gone downhill in recent years. My 202 was imported into the US by Bogen and has been quite good (though not flawless). At one point there was discussion about whether newer models have multi-coated lenses anymore.

All of this does not bode well for the 205 but I'd like to see one. Unfortunately, the Noblex's are unsuitable for serious field use and the big Widelux is heavy as a tank. The other mf panoramas aren't much smaller or better than a 4x5 field camera. So it's just a matter of how much you're willing to compromise.

PS David your English is fine, no need to apologize.

Clydeorama Photo Gallery
http://clydesoles.com

From Rangefinder Mailing List;
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001
From: Allan Wafkowski [email protected]
Subject: Re: [RF List] folders; panoramics

I got an Horizon 202 just three days ago. I've only shot a couple of rolls of film, but they came out very well. I now have it loaded with Kodachrome 64 (I have my fingers crossed that Kodak sends it back uncut when processed).

The thing is a lot of fun to play with. My local mini-lab can print the 24mm X 58mm negatives it produces, which is convenient. The only thing I'm unhappy about is that I didn't get any filters with the camera. I'd like to get hold of one, pop out the existing filter and replace it with a medium yellow to help my skies when shooting b&w.

BTW, the date of manufacture is encoded in the serial number on the lens. The first two digits are the year. Mine was made in 94 (1994).

Allan

...

From Panoramic Mailing List;
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001
From: Varr Norbert [email protected]
Subject: RE: Horizon 202 - cable release problems

Keith,

On the tripod mount:

I taped on the two sides of the hole some layers of paper duct tape once on the field as quick solution. The tripod plate sides push on the tape and stabilise the camera. It worked so well that I left it on the camera ever since.

I also glued a semi-circle of plastic around the film rewind button on the bottom because I constantly pushed it by incident while trying to keep my fingers off the picture. That worked well too.

On the release cable:

I tried and could not reproduce the failure on my camera. May I suggest that you try another cable before jumping on the release mechanism. Which is very simple btw.

Norbert

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Davison [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001
To: [email protected]
Subject: Horizon 202 - cable release problems

I have a recurring problem that means I cannot use a cable release with my Horizon 202. The combination of this fault and the laughable contact area around the tripod bush on the 202 makes shooting frames for 360 degree pans difficult.

So, has anyone else had this particular problem?

And, more importantly, does anyone know how to cure it?

Keith Davison

Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001
From: [email protected] (Ralf R. Radermacher)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Panoramic Camera Question--Horizon

Marc David Miller [email protected] wrote:

> I am on the way to Russia later this month and am thinking about getting  a
> cheap panoramic camera like the Horizon.

Please note my page on this camera at the URL given below.

And if you still think you must buy your Horizon from a Leningrad cab driver instead of the known reputable sources, then please do not pester this newsgroup with long rants about the miserable quality of Russian equipment, once your camera has failed half way through the second film.

Thanks.

{sigh}

Ralf
--
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG - K�ln/Cologne, Germany
private homepage at: http://www.free-photons.de

[Ed. note: thanks to Kevin for sharing these tips and observations!]
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001
From: Kevin Kalsbeek [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: Re: updated - thanks! Re: Kiev MF lens table

Hi Bob,

> yep, a bit of traveling brings out some things; one of the things I  enjoy
> about photography is that it forces you to really see your surroundings in a
> more detailed and aware way, lots of photos, esp. if you like abstracts  ;-)

I'm not too good at abstracts, though i did do a good one with my Minox B of a very weathered log/stump. I (very carefully) guessed the focus!

> I've suddenly started shooting "diamonds", almost a necessity for  getting
> some tall cityscape buildings with medium format (no 14mm as on my Nikon  ;-)
> squares with an (angle) attitude ;-)

I always though it would be cool to get permission to get up on top of one of those Tall buildings with a camera.....right near sunset, I think- see what I mean?? B^)

> I'm hoping the horizon will be here shortly; the foreground issues are
> interesting/challenging; ditto distortion aspects, I was shocked to see
> it is only 0.7 kg - wow! the Horizont I have seen is pretty much a brick ;-)

Yes, the Horizont is heavier( Mine is a Kalimar Wide-X), but for hand held use that is an advantage, I think. I think the viewfinder is a bit better than the Horizon also, tho the 202 is not bad at all. If the viewfinder is to be believed, I'm not sure that the foreground issue will be as serious as you anticipate. The lenses are VERY well corrected and if the camera is properly leveled with the bubble level in the viewfinder, distortion will not be a major issue. Both the Horizont and Horizon-202 have a similar 28mm f2.8 lens, and the 28 is NOT a favorite with me, but the foreground is lees than you would anticipate- MUCH less than my 20mm Mir-20M, which is a NEAT lens. Quite impressive looking also- a scaled down version of the Kiev MF 30mm- LARGE front element and very low distortion, and the price can't be beat! I bought mine new for about $135- try that with Nikon, or? glass!

> the veriwide has proved to be a lot of fun, but I like oddball stuff,  and
> the 18mm equivalent for 35mm SLRs with 120 film and 6x10cm (really  55x92mm
> still 2:3) makes it work in 6x9 enlargers; just wish I could find a  modern
> projector Hockey Puck all metal, simple, point and shoot - if you can't
> touch it, its in focus ;-) sunny f/16 ;-) but you get some odd looks now
> and again (has topside viewfinder etc). The 2:3 ratio is handy with
> reducing the amount of foreground you get (vs squares) - making me all
> the more interested in getting 120 degrees and 1:2+ ratio - and  something
> I can project in my medium format slide projector ;-)

Oh boy! Finding a projector should be fun! I finally tracked down the info on the Veriwide 100. Interesting camera. If you want attention the Horizon should be as effective. B^) The Russian FT-2 camera has a negative length of about 110 mm, but my old B&J 5x7 enlarger will handle that with ease. Talk about a bizarre piece or machinery!!!

The loading of the Horizont and Horizon are direct descendants of this monster!

> projects, projects ;-) grins bobm

Yeah, yeah! I do know how it is! B^)
Well, behave yourself B^)
Kev

From Panoramic Mailing List;
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2001
From: rod sage [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizon 202 - It's surgery time.

Marco Pauck wrote:

> Keith Davison wrote:
> >
> > Well, judging by the response below and several I have had offlist, it
> > seems my cable release problem is fairly unique. Considering the
> > quality variation of Russian equipment, I suppose I should count  myself
> > lucky that this is the only extra "feature" on my 202.
>
> Yes, sad but true ... ;-)
>
> > The next step seems to be a bit of surgery on the release mechanism
> > itself. Does anyone know how to completely remove the rear half of the
> > outer plastic casing? With all of the screws, tripod bush and viewfinder
> > level removed, the rear casing still seems to be attached in the  region of
> > the filmdoor hinges and I can't get it free.
> >
> > All suggestions that do not include hammers are welcome.
>
> Here's a description of how to disassemble the 202:
> http://www.pauck.de/marco/photo/panorama/horizon202/disassembling.html
>
> Sorry, it's in German only. It basically says that you have to remove  the
> two front and the four back screws and push the rewind release when  removing
> the covers. The back cover has to be 'slipped around' the hinge. I  haven't
> tried this procedure myself (yet ... ;-)
>
>         Marco

Also you will need to unscrew the shutter button CCW using pliers. Plus the viewfinder level needs to unscrew. Amaizingly, under the cheap plastic skin is a heavy mechanical marvel, which isn't always marvelous.

Rod S.

[Ed. note: thanks to Ed Balko for sharing these notes and tip on sources!]
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001
From: Ed Balko [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: widelux vs. horizon and research -} bargains and better choices

Hello Bob-

Thank you for all of the information which you've been posting on panoramic cameras; I've found it quite useful

After a hiatus of 15 years I'm in the process of setting up a new darkroom and acquiring some new cameras. On the basis of what you posted, and the large number of Horizon 202 related web pages I've ordered 202 from Kiev Camera ($239/new at the moment). I'm looking forward to its arrival lagter this week. Work is taking me to Europe regularly now and I expect the Horizon to join the Rollei and Retina IIIC than I take along now.

While I certainly will do some color work, my real pleasure is B&W printing in my darkroom. I have a shop at home and will mill a negative carrier for my Omega Super B enlarger (a really nice to use old timer) for the panoramic negatives. The ability to print the Horizon negatives with my existing equipment was a strong point in the Horizon's favor.

I agree with you about bargains being available in cameras for those willing to take the trouble to find them. That was the point that I was making when I posted a message suggesting that a Rolleicord III with the Xenar lens was quite an inexpensive entry to MF and a nicely made camera to boot. I've just come back from the Adirondacks where I carried the Rollicord in a backpack (you might remember my posting on RUG) and have 12 rolls of sharp 6x6 negatives to enjoy printing. I'll get a second Rubbermaid container for the Horizon and make some room in my pack.

Ed Balko
Middletown, NJ

From Panoramic Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001
From: David Artigas [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizon 205pc

Dear people:

I've got a new 35mm Horizon camera since august and I've been working a lot with it taking landcapes around my place, in northern Spain.. Europe... :-). I'm afraid I cannot recommend this camera. In my humble opinio it is not a very reliable camera. I think is somethin related with the spring that rotates the lens drum: Russian made.

It sometimes produces light streaks across the negative or mounts two negatives... I decided, when beginning this job, to shoot half a roll for a single landscape, bracketing and repeating the shoots, to avoid bitter surprises...

But I should say that it was very cheap. Mine costs here around 50.000 Spanish pesetas (270 US dollars or 300 Euros).

But the Horizon 205 sounds veery priced to my ears!. I've heard that the best idea, if desiring a medium format swing camera, is the Noblex, which uses a electrical motor drive.

I hope this info may help you...

PS: I'm sorry for my English: not very "clean".

David Artigas.
[email protected]

From Rangefinder Mailing List;
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001
From: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: re: widelux vs. horizon and research -> bargains and better choices

            widelux f/8             horizon 202s
cost(new)   $1,650                  $250 to $395 (dealers vary)
lens       26mm f/2.8               28mm f/2.8
shutter  1/15, 1/125, 1/250         1/2 to 1/500th (8 speeds, not 1/30th)
coverage    140 deg horiz           120 degrees
focused at    5 meters              infinity  (1 meter to infinity at f/16)
body        all metal               metal body, ABS plastic body shell
weight      900+ gms                700 gms (full kit, w. bag + filters)
film size   24x58 or 59mm           24x58mm (6x6 enlarger and widelux slides)
problem #1   banding?               banding? ;-)
repair sites  3 in US?              lots of kiev repairers out there ;-)
production   fire, ceased prod'n?   in production, upgraded by Hartblei 

for a landscape and cityscape shooter, the Horizon was a clear winner due to low cost, focus on infinity, and full range of shutter speeds and f/stops.

I tend to use my 6x9+cm veriwide 100 for interior/architecture shots (~90 degree horiz. coverage, 100 degrees diagonal) since it is equiv to a rectilinear 18mm ultrawide on a 35mm SLR, but in 6x9+cm. Most clients don't like the swing lens distortions that happen with close up subjects, but prefer rooms to look more roomy than they really are (e.g. Hotels) ;-)

I picked up the veriwide after my research showed the surprising fact that it had more coverage than the fuji g617 6x17cm (equiv to 24mm on 35mm horizontally) or gw690 rangefinder (38mm equiv horiz.) or gw670 (45mm equiv. horiz.) or wide angle gsw690 (28mm equiv). Only the hasselblad xpan with 30mm comes close, and it uses 35mm film vs 120. The veriwide is a VF but is so wide that if you can't touch it, it is in focus.

So I stopped seeking heavier and bigger cameras in 6x12 and 6x17 formats since I could easily crop their images out of my 6x9+cm veriwide shots, and carry a 6x4" camera that weights only a few pounds in my bag instead.

but the horizon experience helps convince me that you can find some bargains in photography if you look and research for them; similarly, the optical quality of a yashica rangefinder with fast lens can be quite satisfying, especially when you consider the piles of $$ you saved over more famous name rangefinders (but without the Yashica's autofeatures etc. ;-) ditto, the veriwide was hard to find info on (as with the wideluxes), but turned out to be a better match for my budget and needs than the bigger and much pricier medium format rangefinders...

grins bobm

Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001
From: Keith Davison [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Horizon 202 - Cable release problem - CURED!

Further to my recent posts about the release button on my 202 jamming when I use cable release, I have now found a cure. It involves the addition of a washer to the release mechanism. If anyone else has this problem, email me offlist and I will give you step-by-step instructions for the fix.

Keith Davison

MEGALITHICS - VR panoramas, images and information on megalithic sites in the British Isles and Eire.
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/megalithics/index.htm

From Panoramic Mailing List;
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001
From: Marco Pauck [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizon 202 - It's surgery time.

Keith Davison wrote:

> Well, judging by the response below and several I have had offlist, it
> seems my cable release problem is fairly unique. Considering the
> quality variation of Russian equipment, I suppose I should count myself
> lucky that this is the only extra "feature" on my 202.

Yes, sad but true ... ;-)

> The next step seems to be a bit of surgery on the release mechanism
> itself. Does anyone know how to completely remove the rear half of the
> outer plastic casing? With all of the screws, tripod bush and viewfinder
> level removed, the rear casing still seems to be attached in the  region of
> the filmdoor hinges and I can't get it free.
>
> All suggestions that do not include hammers are welcome.

Here's a description of how to disassemble the 202:
http://www.pauck.de/marco/photo/panorama/horizon202/disassembling.html

Sorry, it's in German only. It basically says that you have to remove the two front and the four back screws and push the rewind release when removing the covers. The back cover has to be 'slipped around' the hinge. I haven't tried this procedure myself (yet ... ;-)

Marco

> Keith,
> >
> > On the tripod mount:
> > I taped on the two sides of the hole some layers of paper duct tape  once on
> > the field as quick solution. The tripod plate sides push on the tape   and
> > stabilise the camera. It worked so well that I left it on the camera  ever
> > since.
>
> > On the release cable:
> > I tried and could not reproduce the failure on my camera.
> > May I suggest that you try another cable before jumping on the release
> > mechanism. Which is very simple btw.
> >
> > Norbert
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> >
> > I have a recurring problem that means I cannot use a cable release  with
> > my Horizon 202. The combination of this fault and the laughable  contact
> > area around the tripod bush on the 202 makes shooting frames for 360
> > degree pans difficult.
> > ::::
> > So, has anyone else had this particular problem?
> > And, more importantly, does anyone know how to cure it?
> >
> > Keith Davison

[Ed. note: thanks to Ed for sharing these notes on his Horizon purchasing experience and tips!]
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001
From: Earthmother [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: Re: widelux vs. horizon and research -> bargains and better choices

Hello Again Bob-

Thought I'd write and let you know how I made out with my new Horizon 202.

I bought the Horizon, new, from Kiev Camera; the price there if $239 with a 6 month warranty. It arrived Friday, quite well packed.

The camera worked perfectly right out of the box and came with all of the promised pieces and accessories. I live near the shore here in NJ and Saturday I put three rolls of film through the Horizon at a couple of locations along an estuary nearby (TMX 400, TMX100, and PX135 - just happend to be the film that I had thawed out at the time). I printed the negatives without cropping on half sheets of 8X10 Polymax (#3 filter) using a purpose-made home-machined negative carrier in my Omega Super B with an 80mm El Nikkor

The camera seems to be working flawlessly; images are sharp all the way across with no evidence of streaks or bands. The lens seems to be of decent quality, I'm estimating this from the fine detail I can see using a magnifying glass to examine the prints - sailboat masts and bridge railings in the distance. The day was overcast and the prints aren't "snappy" but no different from the Rolleicord shots I took at the same time. I'll go out again when the day is brighter and I have some attractive clouds in the sky.

I was careful to load the film properly, Kiev Camera made a point of cautioning me about this and the numerous websites dealing with the Horizon provide a similar warning. In use, the camera admittedly doesn't have a "fine watch" feel about it. The is a lot of drag as the film advances, but given the circuitous film path in the Horizon, there is no reason that the wind should feel like a Leica. Slow and easy and I had no trouble at all, no breaks, no tears.

I pleased with the camera and plan to use it quite a bit over the next couple of months.

Ed Balko

...

Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001
From: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
To: Earthmother [email protected]
Subject: Re: widelux vs. horizon and research -> bargains and better choices

thanks for your note, glad to hear you are having luck and my best wishes for more success and fun in the future ;-0)

re: film, I habitually put a short bend in the film end when loading, about 5/8ths of an inch or so and around and into slot; after that, I also tend to use the rewind crank to tighten the film after advancing the film, and now and again when using it. This is kevin's tip (on mf/horizon.html ) that I may not need, but it makes me feel better, and I do this on 35mm SLRs too to watch the winder move and ensure film is taking up...

the only "glitch" I have had so far is that light can bounce off the film from a really bright flare spot, and if near the edge of the film, onto the next over frame (oops!). This is bit unusual but due to the film loop design, and the fact that the lens is moving so also moves flare about. Worth checking out on some noncritical shots with hot flare spot in a window.

I've also been very impressed by lens sharpness; I can count window partitions in a skyscraper sixty stories high ;-)

nicest part is you can print using 6x6 enlarger, and project with masked widelux slide mounts on 6x6 projectors too ;-) see also cheapy 4 1/2" x 12" pano prints

from http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/panoramic.html

Subject: Horizon 202 machine prints

For those interested in 35mm panoramic machine prints from the Horizon, 24 X 58 mm or Widelux film formats, and you live in California, I found a Kodak lab in San Leandro that does inexpensive 4 1/2 X 12 inch prints. The lab is in San Leandro, Calif. (no mail order) however they pick up at various locations in California as follows:

Sacramento, Red Bluff, Santa Rosa, Lakeport, Fairfield, Fresno, Visalia, Monterey, San Francisco, San Rafael, just to name a few. Some of the chain stores they service are Longs Drugs, Ritz Camera, Wolf Camera, and others. The key is making sure they are sent out to the Kodak Processing labs in San Leandro, and not Sacramento or Manteca. The San Leandro lab has modified their machines to print the Horizon and Widelux formats. You must write in Special instructions (HORIZON or Widelux, and 35mm panoramic 4 X 12 prints. The actual prints are 4 1/2 X 12 inch, and are charged $.59 each plus procesing (2.25) each roll.

I also tried Thompson photo in Knoxville. They did a great job on the prints, which were 4 X 12 @ .90 each plus $1.95 process.

Another lab that has had their machines modified is Custom Panoramic Lab, Boca Raton. The prints are printed on five inch paper and cost $1.50 each plus $2.25 process.

I did attempt to send a test roll to the Kodak processing lab in Manteca, Ca. but they screwed them up, with a photogram explaining that there were overlapped images, improper film advance, and a need for camera service.

You can imagine what the negatives look like! So if your in Calif. and in need of Horizon machine prints, and you can wait about 8 - 10 days, the San Leandro Kodak processing lab is a best bet. If not, Thompson photo and Custom Panoramic for mail order, give great machine prints.

Has anyone else found any other labs willing to do inexpensive machine prints?????

Jeff Weisenburger

Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001
From: Keith Davison [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Horizon 202 - Cable release problem - CURED!

Further to my recent posts about the release button on my 202 jamming when I use cable release, I have now found a cure. It involves the addition of a washer to the release mechanism. If anyone else has this problem, email me offlist and I will give you step-by-step instructions for the fix.

Keith Davison

MEGALITHICS - VR panoramas, images and information on megalithic sites in the British Isles and Eire. http://web.ukonline.co.uk/megalithics/index.htm

From: [email protected] (Ralf R. Radermacher)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm,rec.photo.technique.nature
Subject: Re: Panoramic camera question
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 


John Richardson [email protected] wrote:

> While I would love a camera like the Noblex or the Hasselblad XPan, the
> realities of the pocketbook are pushing me towards the Russian Horizon
> 202. I have also seen ads for the Horizont which I believe was the
> predecessor to the 202.

Yes, it is. Mostly identical. The Horizont doesn't have the slower
speeds.

> Has anyone had the chance to use either (or both) of these cameras? If
> so, what is your impression? Will they take good photos or will I just
> be wasting time and money?

I've bought Horizon 202, last summer, and could hardly be happier. The
optical quality is excellent, way better than any of the 'fake'
solutions achieved by cropping 35 mm or APS [shudder].


I use it mostly hand-held with fast film, usually Supra 800. This way,
you get a very fast rangefinder-type of camera which is great for action
shots and street photography as well as landscapes.

I've really been in a dilemma, when I bought it, because my local dealer
knew what I was up to and they made me the most tempting prices for the
smallest Noblex model in an attempt to lure me away from the Horizon.
Today, I'm quite happy I haven't bought the Noblex. I'd hate to be
without the slow speeds.

For the price, the Horizon is unbeatable. With a little shopping around,
you should be able to get one for about 400 USD, new with a warranty. As
all Russian equipment, it should only be bought from a decent dealer.
Buying from ebay is asking for trouble.

As most Eastern produce, the Horizon can be made a lot better with a
little time and effort. With mine, they had obviously forgotten to
de-burr the film guiding rails. Took a film or two until I realized
where all the dust inside the camera came from. A few very gentle passes
with a rounded sharp blade cured this problem. Some matte black paint
applied to the inside of the rotating drum has eliminated a slight
tendency to flare in _extreme_ night-time conditions with very bright
lights around.

Now, just give me a few days to get a number of scans made from my
Horizon negatives online. I'm currently working on my new site and it'll
hopefully be ready by next weekend.

> Would the older Horizont be better built than
> a new Horizon 202?

No. If you take off the outer plastic housing of the Horizon you end up
with the old Horizont body. And, again, you'd be missing out on the
slower speeds with the older model.


Ralf

--
Ralf R. Radermacher  -  DL9KCG  -  K�ln/Cologne, Germany
coming soon:     http://www.free-photons.de

                

                

                

                


From Kiev 88 Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 
From: "olivier" [email protected]
Subject: result of the diopter lens in panoramic ...

hi everybody , i come back from the galapagos !!!

the results of the dioptry in front of the lens of the 202 are wonderfull ...
i can get a first level in focus 1 meter and out of focus background at f 2,8
...

or greatwer focus in close up shots ...

inside boat room all was OK ... and for the rest , go and see , i just post
some images in the photo folders of the group ( in the galapagos folder ...)
thanks all who help me to resolve the diopter problem ...

I can send at who is interested pictures of my personal version of the filter
holder adaptation to use the diopter for the lens ... very efficient and PRO
done ..

Olivier .


From Kiev88 Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 
From: "olivier" [email protected]
Subject: Re: diopters very good solutions ...for horizon 202

hi Dale ...
finaly i decide to have a final version for
diopter ...

i cut real plastic coated diopter in suare form (like the filter holder )
and replace the filter and the second part of the filterholder ...
i drill 4 holes in the glass to fit the 4 pins of the filterholder and CLIP
in it ..

i fix with superglue (very cleanly )
so this keep very in good position all things (in filter holders )

so now, after making tests, i have
a real sharp focus at f 2,8 at 2 meters with a +0.5 , a  REAL 4 meter with
+0.25  and a REAL 1 meter focus with +1 diopter ...

it is very interessant to have some "out of focus " background ..YES i get
it at f 2,8 and focus at 1 meter ...

I travel tomorrow to galapagos and my equipments are packed for boat travel
so i can t send you an image ...

BUT when i come back, i shall post images of the system and results ...
I know this is not about KIEV , but the 202 is russian too and this was a
real problem BEFORE !!!!

SOLUTIONED ! BINGO . (somebody want industrialize this ? ... joke , its is
easy to do yourself and i recomand have at least one of theses close up for
horizon ... SO you can take with 100 asa and get great focus .

Olivier ...



Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 
From: olivier [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: diopter ...

hi robert...and andrey ...

NO problem , i send you a scan and some comments ...

I find very useful in some conditions ...

a photography of a first level "IN FOCUS" of an animal - see crab image ...
at 50cm or less ...

a panoramic macrofoto ? with infinity "out of focus background "? no problem...

So now I want invest in a closer lens to do closer shots ... 
50cm, 25cm with 2 diopters and 3 or 4 ...

I think it is so better than "cross fingers" about Depth to field .. 
and NEVER have a real focus in closers shots ...

so I send you some scans of the adaptation of the lens (sculpted with
dremmel tool) to fit in the "4 clips pins" of the original filter holder ...

A) buy the diopter lens in a optic normal shop ..

It is better to buy the resin plastic ones ...

(glasses ones are very breakables and dont permit drill holes !!!)
and in the plastic ones , for 10$ you can obtain "coated glasses" ...

OR you can find "generic brand" eye lenses in your supermarket or drugstore
maybe for cheap ...(I remember the woolworth have for $2.99  before death [closing])

after this mark the optical center (with soft marker) and cut with dremmel
disk tool a square with the adequate dimension of the filter holder ...

Soflty remove (open) the filter holder to quit the filter and the upper
piece (keep them for another use ...)

so you have only a single piece with 4 pins ...

drill 4 holes to perfect fit the piece of glass in place ...

put little drops of superglue and clean well ...

that's all , make a test at f/2.8 stop to define which "real Focus" you get with the
adapter at f/2.8 ... 

and mark the lens holder so no possible confusion between which one is which...

In small rooms, the "cigar problem" some one says to me [cigar distortion pattern]...

I don't find this problem is too much of a Problem ...

I use these panoramics for QTVR in webs sites and if you "crop" the view to a
normal view, you can "slide" the windows without deformation ...

I shall make 360 panoramics with 3 images ...

I actually have one for one meter , one for two meters and one for 8 meters
... (I think they are great useful distances ...)

the one meter is for inside - reunions, parties, small rooms (like boats, car, )
the 2 meters for shooting interiors like Offices, houses, ...

and the 8 meters for dark churches, or just to be precise in less than landscape focusing ...

all shots done with 100 asa slide film !

I just place the images of the adapter and some shots in the "DIOPTER"
folder of the photos folders of the kievgroup ...

(later I shall delete them to NOT use space in the group ...)

Adrey and robert, I send you directly at your private mail the sames images
!!!

so good luck .

olivier .





Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 
From: Peter Marshall [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizon 202 Help!

> > George, when you are first starting out with these cameras you need
> > something     CHEAP    to try. If I had to start at 1500.00
> > I would still be sitting on the sidelines.....
>
> Another thing to remember is that the problems with the Horizon are
> *known*
> whereas with the Widepan, as well as with any product being brought to
> market for the first time, potential problems are yet to be
> discovered--but
> certainly will be--by the initial purchasers!
>
> Joseph


I had a slight problem with the first I bought, but have been running
films through its replacement for years now with few problems - at a
guess probably around a thousand films. I had to take the cover off and
clean it last year after it got a little grit in the mechanism - a pretty
easy job.

Most other Horizon users I meet seem to have few problems as they are
basically fairly simple. Once you have a working one it is likely to stay
working more reliably than most cameras. I think it is one of the greatest
bargains in photography.

Peter Marshall
Photography Guide at About          http://photography.about.com/
email: [email protected]


From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 
From: "eric_george" [email protected]
Subject: horizon close focus solution

Olivier,

I remember reading somwhere that if you add some DYMO label tape
(heavy plastic type) to the film rails of the camera, it moves the
close focus to about 2 meters.

Not sure where I saw this but hope it helps.

Eric


from russian camera mailing list:
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 
From: "olivier" [email protected]
Subject: perfects  diopters

thanks robert for the formula ...
i have done 3 and they work PERFECT ...
i have +1 and this focus at 1,2 meters
i have +2 focus at 60 cm
i have +1/4 focus at 4,8 meters

next test is make a good MACRO close up for focusing at 5 cm !!!
but for this i need more filters holders !!! i want make a least 10 "real
focusing filters" ... i have ask at Mike if he can find me somes ...

thanks, olivier ...


From panoramic mailing list:
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 
From: Rod Sage [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizon Focus

According to my instruction book, written in cyrillic, which I can't read,
seems to be:

In meters
2.8.....5.5-oo,  4......3.9-oo,  5.6.....2.9-oo,  8.....2-oo,  11.....1.5-oo,
16.....1-oo........

Seems about right to me.

Rod S

Jae Redfern wrote:
> Would anyone know the focusing distances for each f-stop on a Horizon 202?
> thanks.



Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 
From: Peter Marshall [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Any Horizon 202 users out there?

> Hi, I am new to the list and photography in general.  I just bought a
> Horizon 202 and would like any comments you guys might have.  Thanks,
> Jock
>
>
I've used one for several thousand exposures with only minor problems.

So long as yours is working properly now it is likely to keep on doing so,
but test it thoroughly while it is still in warranty.

I did have to clean mine after about 5 years when I got too much dust in
it, but it was a simple job. I've also replaced the rewind knob which I
managed to break, and the shutter release that got lost, but the basic
mechanism seems relatively simple and robust.

There are two big problems shooting with it - you will find you have to
work to avoid too much empty foreground, and also to avoid the 'cigar
effect' dominating images.

I've known people who think of the 56x24mm format as a 56x18mm with a
little rising/falling front built in, which can help.

It's a great camera to use handheld by the way, and the grip that bayonets
into the bottom makes it easier to keep your fingers out of frame.

Peter Marshall
Photography Guide at About          http://photography.about.com/
email: [email protected]



from panoramic mailing list:
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 
From: Stan Patz [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizon 202 users - tripod needed

>What type of tripod is the best for this camera?  I've read that some do
>not work well.  Is there a tripod that would also be suitable for taking
>vertical photos as well?

Dear Jock,

The Horizon does not sit well on tripod heads due to it's prominent round
bushing. I use a rubber "O" ring between the body and tripod head. It is a
little awkward, but it cuts down on camera movement.

Stan Patz   NYC

[email protected]
www.PatzImaging.com


from panoramic mailing list:
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002
From: Rod Sage [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizon 202 users - tripod needed

There is a ring screwed on to the tripod socket. This can be removed with a
spanner wrench and then the camera will sit flush on most tripods. The ring is
not necessary on the camera.

Rod S

Unknown wrote:

> What type of tripod is the best for this camera?  I've read that some do not
work well.  Is there a tripod that would also be suitable for taking vertical
photos as well?  Thanks, Jock


Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 
From: Rod Sage [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizon 202 close-ups

Jae Redfern wrote:

> Has anyone had any success rigging up some form of a close focus
> filter for their Horizon 202?

I did. I took one of the supplied filters which I wouldn't use. I
think it was the UV. You can carefully snap them apart with a blade.
I used an old +1 portra lens and carefully ground it down to the
size of the original using a glass cutter for rough cuts and then a
Dremel grinder. The lens was a bit thick to instal normally so I
used epoxy. I recently did the same to make an IR filter. I used
Kodak 89b gel filter and cut to fit. Works great. The closeup lens
is only useful if you must use large apertures as the camera has
great depth of field at smaller apertures. Depends how close you
want.

Rod S


[Ed. note: thanks to Joseph Meyerson for sharing this tip on closeups with Horizons!]
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 
From: Joseph Meyerson [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: horizon 202 closeups

FYI:

* Adapt 202 to closeups and then use depth of field by higher f stops to
take you out to infinity.

The method:
One layer of Dremel label tape on the film rails!



Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 
To: Russiancamera-user [email protected]
From: David Nebenzahl [email protected]
Subject: [Russiancamera] Re: question on horizont

gerald wrote:
>
> hello and good morning (in europe)..
>
> i have a question to the horizont (first model). What stuff
> was delivered with the camera....as i can remember there were
> some filters, or am i wrong....
> I`m starting to collect russian cameras, i have not few of
> them (6), so i`m not so experienced in such things......
> ...and how much a good working horizont can cost?...

I'm not sure what you mean by "first model": do you mean the one before the
one currently being produced (Horizon-202)?

If you want any information on this latter model, check Alfred's great page
on it:
http://home.planet.nl/~ucklomp/index.htm?http%3A//home.planet.nl/%7Eucklomp/hori
zon202/index.htm

He has a couple of other pages devoted to Horizon stuff, including some
really nice pictures taken with one. His site is at
http://home.planet.nl/~ucklomp/.

Sorry I can't give any numbers for prices, but if you check on eBay, you'll
find a bunch of Horizons, probably as good a guide to price as any.



From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 
From: "da_nebster [email protected]
Subject: Re: Horizont  VS  Ft-2

...

If you (or anyone else) is the least bit interested in the
Horizon/Horizont cameras, you really ought to check out Alfred's
Camera Page on the subject:

http://home.planet.nl/~ucklomp/horizon202/index.htm

He describes the Horizon-202 in great detail, plus he's got some
really nice pictures from it on another page. (Main page is at
http://home.planet.nl/~ucklomp/)