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Why do we need camera bag alternatives?

• Camera bags seem to radiate an aura that says... Steal Me!!!
  
• Camera bags seem to be priced more on what goes inside them than on what goes into making them
• Camera bags aren't really waterproof when you need really waterproof bags
• Camera bags are bags, and you can't sit on bags when you need or want too
• Camera bags don't provide the ultimate in insulation on hot/cold days
• Camera bags don't carry enough stuff, so you need a real bag too

In short, we need camera bag alternatives.

Theft

Camera bags look like camera bags. Thieves are highly attuned to seeing and stealing camera bags since camera resale value is so high compared to, say, those other bags with your dirty underwear in them. So the trick is to make your camera bag look like it isn't a camera bag.

In fact, the ultimate trick is to make your camera bag look like a bag that not only isn't worth stealing, but something nobody in their right mind would steal.

Quick - what is a bag that carries something so foul, so smelly, and so worthless that nobody in their right mind would steal it???

The answer will be obvious to most parents out there - a diaper bag!!! What thief wants to steal a bag filled with smelly used diapers??? Let's face it - diaper bags are unstealable!

But think about the benefits of carrying your camera/lenses in a diaper bag:

• Diaper bags are really very water-resistant (er, smelly fluid resistant?)
• Diaper bags are designed to be carried around constantly (nice straps)
• Diaper bags have zippered compartments to keep stuff separate (big zips)
• Diaper bags have inside loops designed to retain bottles - or lenses
• Diaper bags are designed to carry several heavy full bottles weight etc.
• Diaper bags are well padded, including on the bottom, to protect glass etc.
• Diaper bags are usually well insulated so they tend to keep cool well
• Diaper bags are easy to keep clean with a sponge (vs. dust in camera bags)
• Diaper bags can be carried into museums where camera bags must be checked
  

  And our best point of all:
  

• Diaper bags are really very cheap, esp. at yard sales

If you aren't using a diaper bag, then you have to take precautions in high theft areas (e.g., Europe, North America...). Some folks wrap their bags around their hands, arms, or necks so thieves can't easily unwrap or steal them. So some thieves just cut the bag straps with a sharp knife. So folks run a steel piano or guitar string wire through the strap. Smart, huh? Unfortunately, this trick can be very uncomfortable when the thief tries to cut and run with the bag, but ends up cutting your head off in the process. You just can't win!

A Cooler Camera Bag

Some camera bag alternatives are cooler than others.

Actually, some camera bag alternatives are coolers!

Advantages of using a cooler for carrying cameras and lenses include:

• Coolers don't shout out "STEAL-ME!!" except to fat folks on diets
• Coolers are often carried by folks on trips or in the field
• Coolers are constructed to carry very heavy loads like all those prime lenses
• Coolers are often really very waterproof, esp. with rubber sealing rims
• Coolers are very sturdy, and you can sit on the flat surface top designs
• Coolers are very well insulated, great for too hot or too cold climates
• Coolers are easy to clean, esp. from dust, unlike most camera bags
• Coolers may have locks with keys or otherwise be secured in some models
• Coolers come in a variety of sizes and shapes to fit your needs
• Coolers may or may not float upright if properly weighted with photogear
• Coolers may have compartments or trays to carry loose items or film
• Coolers can be stood upon to take photos over a crowd or get higher up
• Coolers are mostly insulation and so surprisingly light for their size
• Coolers may have straps that make them easier to carry (see above)
• Coolers with white lids or sides make impromptu light reflectors
• Coolers are often long enough to put in even your longest telephoto lens
• Coolers are big enough to carry other important stuff like food or beer
• Coolers are surprisingly cheap and affordable compared to camera bags
• Coolers come big enough to even load a 4x5 view camera into them solidly
  And a unique benefit:
  
• Coolers can be used as coolers for parties (hint: unload camera gear first!)

You can improve on the cooler's basic good design and cost points above by customizing your cooler layout. As one example, you can put plastic boxes and foam cut to size into your cooler. Lenses and items can be mounted easily into properly cut foam so they won't roll around. In hot weather, you can put in some chilled freezer bags to help keep the contents such as film cool all day long. In cold weather, a plastic bottle of hot water can also come in handy. Use zip lock bags for lenses if you are in really sandy, dusty, or muddy conditions (Gobi Desert day trippers, take note!).

Many situations call for bags that aren't camera bags to carry camera gear. A good example is backpacking up a mountain. You really can't carry a typical bag which might unbalance you while climbing. So it makes sense to repack your equipment in more appropriate bags.

Backpacks and Briefcases

One obvious camera bag alternative is the backpack. Many backpacks have zippered side containers to carry small items, individual lenses, and even small camera bodies. These side-bags make it easier to get to your camera than if you packed it in the main section. Foam can be cut up to make it easier to pack lenses and delicate items in the main backpack area.

Briefcases and luggage cases are another alternative camera bag option. By selecting used and battered cases at your local thrift store or garage sale, you not only save money but reduce your chances of losses from theft. These cases are usually used with camera foam cutouts to make it easier to protect and store your precious lenses and camera items. Some cases have integral locks with keys, a handy security feature, but be sure to have duplicate keys available. Other cases may have small wheels that make moving around in airports and in urban areas much easier. A few cases may have straps to make lugging up stairs easier.

Another potential source of low cost but reasonably sturdy camera bags can be found in most department stores. The common lunch box has changed into a lunch bag, often complete with blue ice freezer cooling packs. These bags come in a lot of sizes, have handles and sometimes straps, and are colorful to say the least. Some may feature your favorite cartoon characters too. Inside, these bags are often padded, with water-resistant fabrics and a decent zipper. I like the new freezer cooler pack design, since it provides a useful side case in which to stash filters, film, and other small photo items.

These same department stores now stock much larger bags, designed to carry a 12-pack of soda cans or even larger items. Some are ideal for use in carrying a 4x5 field view camera and accessories, including padded case and convenient carrying straps. The mid-sized cases provide plenty of capacity for most medium format and 35mm camera users, even lens-aholics with many prime lenses to carry about. Since cost of even the largest insulated waterproof carrying bag is under $20 US, these bags offer a lot of capacity and features for very low cost.

One problem with using such large and deep bags is the lack of internal dividers. Here again, foam can be easily cut to permit packaging lenses and cameras securely. One trick is to use layers of foam, possibly glued to a piece of cut-to-fit cardboard or thin wood. Another approach is to build up a series of layers, using boxes at the bottom. The boxes can be used to store rarely used items like filter wrenches, spare batteries, camera manuals, and the like that you still need or want to carry along. The more frequently accessed items simply ride on top, filling out these deep cases.

Mobile Camera Bag Alternatives

Some camera bag alternatives are designed to be mobile without being carried. I am referring to hard cases with larger wheels designed to let you wheel your heavy camera gear close to your site. My favorite alternative approach uses a recycled (pun intended) kiddie carrier, such as jogging parents might buy to push around their kids while jogging in a moment of mental aberration. These coasters carry weight well, have larger sized wheels, and are usually pretty sturdy. They aren't that unusual, and many let you cover up and hide their contents from prying eyes.

My experience with the clever, smaller folding carry-bag versions are that they don't take enough abuse and the wheels don't rotate freely under heavier loads. That's a real drag - quite literally! You can also return to your childhood with a four-wheeled carry-all case.

Wearable Camera Bag Alternatives

You can also wear your camera bag. You have probably seen some of the obscenely expensive pro photographer vests, in which various sized velcro pockets and gussets are used. You just load up your camera, lenses, and move off wearing your equipment. Personally, I find that the pockets don't give good enough protection to keep lenses from clanking together. Losing or gaining weight can cause unforeseen problems too. While weight is distributed off of your neck, it often bulges in odd places.

The pro vests also shout "STEAL-ME!!". The outfits are often too tacky to wear at a formal event (wedding, White House Photo-Op). You also have to wear your burden, being hard to just set down the load like you can with a separate camera bag. Dropping a poorly padded photo vest loaded with lenses on concrete is not recommended. The vest may be too hot in many places (Texas) or not warm enough (Maine) most of the year.

Waterproofing is less effective in many commercial photo-vests than in most alternative camera bag setups.

A cheaper alternative can be found in many Army-Navy stores, or in sporting stores with fishing sections. I am referring to the low-cost traditional fisherman's vest, with its many pockets. There are also some workmen outfits with lots of pockets and places to stash items.

Lens Cases

Lens cases are an unsung camera bag alternative. A lens case is often fitted with a strap, well padded, and easily fitted to most longer lenses. Older lenses were often supplied in lens cases, so you may already have some. Since they are out of fashion and nobody but me likes them, they are often bought for nearly nothing at camera shows.

I have found lens cases highly satisfactory and light-weight for day trips. I often find that only two or three lenses are all I really need on many photo safari trips about town. The normal lens and a wide angle (24mm) are small enough to fit easily into a jacket pocket. But the longer and heavier zoom lens (28-210mm) is too heavy to leave on the smaller camera mounts (Nikon FE, Pentax MX) or around my neck. The lens case is much smaller than any camera bag, and won't accumulate heavy stuff as camera bags do. A few rolls of film, maybe a polarizing filter or two, and you are ready to hit the road.

Simple Free Long Dangling Lens Fix

Another handy tip concerns those long zoom or telephoto lenses that tend to stick out and put a lot of weight and stress on your camera's lens mount when mounted around your neck on a neckstrap (plastic lens mount owners, take note!).

Here is a ridiculously simple way to reduce such stresses, and protect the lens from crashing into people, doors, and other things too. Simply extend your neck strap to its maximum length, and add a loop of strap around your heavy and longer projecting lens(es).

Now the strap takes up the weight of the lens on the outer rim of the lens, removing most of the stress from the camera's lens mount. Better still, the lens naturally presses against your upper chest, so the glass is not pointing forward but to the side. And the bottom of the camera is presented to view, rather than the top, so you don't get as much attention from thieves or snide comments from owners of other camera brands.

Let me also add a point that thieves have brand preferences too, based on whatever is most popular and in demand for resale. Some photographers cover up the "Nikon" or "Canon" label on their cameras for that reason, using a bit of masking tape. You can also buy some replacement leatherette (Fargo Enterprises Inc.) and redress your camera in a unique color scheme (like camoflage, or tiger stripes) that make it unique and easy to identify (and less stealable).

Multiple camera bodies may not seem like a camera bag alternative, but they have some benefits. First, they are always loaded and ready to shoot, so there is no fumbling for needed lenses hidden away in your bag. Second, you can have not just one but two lenses mounted, such as a 19-35mm and 35mm to 300mm zoom lens. Add a 2x teleconverter in one pocket and a fast normal lens in the other jacket pocket. You have a fair amount of firepower readily at hand. Many camera straps have loops to hold film containers, if you like using these (I don't). Again, toss a polarizing filter or two in your shirt pocket, and you are ready to go. A hidden benefit is that you can have different film types loaded, and switch lenses between cameras (same model preferred, same mount mandatory). You also have considerable backups in case of failures.

Absolutely Waterproof Bags

People often ask about waterproof bags for running rapids or use in the beach surf zone or while snorkeling. While you don't think of waterproof bags when you are going off into the desert, it is often equally useful to have o-ring sealed waterproof cameras in dusty or sandy environments. More normal cameras would quickly jam and fail from the dust or sand. Mud combines the worst of both worlds, making an amphibious camera very handy.

My first recommendation is never take a really good camera into such places, you are just tempting Fate!

You may find it cheaper to buy an o-ring sealed camera designed for underwater use, rather than try to buy a waterproof housing for a land camera. Even inexpensive marine 35mm cameras can do nice work, are rugged and resist damage well, and may have built-in closeup lenses and flash.

Careful film loading is critical, as a bit of sand under the protective o-ring can breach that seal and flood even these cameras! Read the manual carefully too, as some camera controls may not be changed underwater without risk of flooding.

For really waterproof containers that can be held underwater without leaking, I have to recommend o-ring sealed waterproof cases such as those made by Pelican Ltd. I have a number of these boxes, in various sizes, which can be bought empty or with a cut foam top/bottom cover lining. The smallest box will hold little more than a camera and few film rolls. The largest boxes will hold all you can afford to put into them, which won't be much, since these large size waterproof boxes are quite costly. But if you need a box that is very sturdy and absolutely waterproof, this is it. Many scuba diving stores or other aquatic sporting places will carry these lines, although unusual sizes may have to be special ordered.

Another source for really waterproof boxes is Ikelite Inc. Ikelite makes waterproof camera housings out of clear plastic. You can also buy metal housings for your camera in many models from other underwater (Scuba) photography suppliers.

Ikelite also makes a series of o-ring sealed boxes and round cylinder containers that can be used to keep stuff dry, even underwater. Unless heavily weighted, these small boxes will usually float if lost overboard on a boat or surfboard. They are made of clear plastic too, so you can easily see what is inside each one.

I have a photo of an Ikelite medium format camera housing (a rare beast) at my Bronica underwater page, as well as a much more expensive metal underwater camera housing for a Rollei TLR.

Many cameras are already waterproof, such as the Nikonos amphibious cameras by Nikon. Others come in plastic housings that are o-ring sealed, and so truly waterproof even at most snorkeling depths.

Finally, I can recommend the EWA-MARINE flexible plastic camera bags as an inexpensive alternative to these rigid hard plastic waterproof cases. The Ewa-Marine bags are thick flexible clear plastic bags that pack flat in your travel bag (a plus). They have a glove that fits your hand so you can handle and manipulate camera controls. You can use small strobes built into many camera models, or add a small strobe in the bag if a PC connector is used.

A flat optical port lets your camera lens see out into the water. This flat port works with most lenses down to about 28mm (on 35mm) without serious vignetting. The top of the bag is sealed (hint: put the camera in first) with two flat metal plates that are screwed down so as to press together and seal the bag shut. For shallow depths, you can squeeze out most of the air, reducing the bag's buoyancy and making it easier to use. Put your hand in first before descending, as the bag may compress under water pressure and make it harder to do at depth. For deeper depths, you may want to leave all the air you can in the bag. The bag will compress significantly the deeper you go on scuba, making it impossible to put your hand in at depth.

One big advantage of the Ewa-Marine bag is that one size of bag fits many SLR cameras (vs. Ikelite housings, which fit only one or a few models of SLR cameras). The bags will also float if released underwater. You may have to wear extra weight when scuba diving or snorkeling to help get them down underwater. Obviously, you should be well trained and certified before doing underwater photography.

The bags are rated to about 60-100 feet, but I have used mine well below that level. Being clear, you can quickly detect any leaks underwater if snorkeling (e.g., stream of exiting bubbles) and take action (hint: surface, use harsh language, remove camera). Again, don't use your best SLR unless you want to tempt Fate!

Summary

We have examined some camera bag alternatives in detail. I suspect most folks would find an inexpensive alternative such as a diaper bag or cooler offers a superior camera carrier at much lower cost than most camera bags. Some alternative camera bags offer superior padding options, others are truly waterproof, and most are very much lower cost alternatives.

If you must go with a pro bag, be sure to bring the items you need to carry with you to the store. You will need to layout your equipment and see how much can fit into each bag. Don't forget to allow for adding a lens and all those necessary items which seem to accumulate in camera bags.

I recognize that many camera bags are expensive because they provide features such as ballistic nylon and better zippers. Still, at current prices, you can buy a heck of a lot of less expensive and even sturdier camera bag alternatives as highlighted here. Doing so might be a good idea, if only for anti-theft reasons.

In the end, the lens, camera, film, and photographer's eye are critical to making pictures. The camera bag just gets the stuff on-site conveniently. I believe that many serious amateur and semi-professional photographers would be better served by alternatives to pricey pro camera bags.

NOTES:
See Modern Photography, July 1982, p. 101 Oh, My Aching Back! by harley E. Barnhart on how to wear and modify a camera bag. Mr. Barnhart suggests putting a pad on the strap where it goes over the shoulder, and running the bag over one shoulder and under the opposite arm, with the bag sitting in front at mid-chest. This trick may require you to add D-rings or swivel snaps to allow the bag strap to avoid being pulled or tearing. In this position, the bag is more comfortable to carry, isn't grabbed by tree branches while hiking or hung-up easily.

From Modern Photography of February 1983 p. 83 by Charles Arh How-to:
Use backpacker's mattress foam, which is 1/4" to 3/8" thick closed cell polyurethane foam for foam to protect lenses and cameras. Cut with a razor to fit cases. Use a shallow vee cut on one side. Epoxy and hold with clothesline clips until dry.

Related Postings

I use the Domke vest, and my wife has one, too. They're very roomy, well designed, durable, comfortable, and not too pricey. I think ours were around $85 at the local full-retail shop, but you should find them discounted for less if you look.

The front pockets are large enough that I have no problem carrying a couple of Pentax 6x7 lenses in them. When I'm using 35mm outdoors, I usually include a 300mm f/4. I believe that's about as big a lens as you could actually carry IN one of the front pockets.

The back pockets are great for water bottles. The weight of all the gear is suspended across a wide enough area of both shoulders that it beats the heck outta any of the backpacks, and the center-of-gravity is lower, making it a lot easier to scramble over rocks.

rec.photo.equipment.misc
From: [email protected] (AP KD6FLM)
[1] Re: Photographers vest
Date: Fri Jul 10 1998

I have a vest from Woolrich. I had to take the stiching out from one of the front pockets. It was one big pocket, with stiching down the center making two smaller pockets. You can find the vest at some of the outlets shops at a good price. Half off or better than the "photo vests."

Aaron
[email protected]

Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998
From: John [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] Off Topic: Where to get Zero Halliburton Foam?

I bought a used Zero Halliburton case on ebay. The bottom section has three layers of foam, with the top thicker layer having been cut to fit the former owner's equipment, as has the "egg crate" type cover in the top setion to match. The bottom two layers of foam are complete. I want to make it hold two Rollei TLR's, pistol grip, tripod (if it'll fit? probably not, 120 film. Whatever ... it needs virgin foam so I can cut it to fit my stuff. B&H wants $50 for a set of foam for a model 106 case which seems high to me. Does anyone know a better source of ZH foam on the web? Also, once I get the new foam, does anyone have any hints about planning the layout or cutting the foam. This case came with little instuctions regarding these things and perhaps those of you who have ZH cases for Rolleiflexes can help me out here.

Best Regards,

John

Date: Sat, 4 Jul 1998
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Off Topic: Where to get Zero Halliburton Foam?

I relined 3 cases for $25 by going to a polyurethane foam distributor and asking for "high density gray foam". They custom cut the foam blocks to exactly the specs I requested.

Layout your equipment on the top layer of foam and trace around it with a felt tip pen. Square up the sides with a square or drafting triangle. Then use an electric carving knife ( like those used to slice turkeys) to cut the holes out for the equipment....go slowly!.

Check your yellow pages under plastic manufacturers. They sell the stuff by the board foot (12in by 12in by 1 in).

R. J. Bender ( A Nikon, Mamiya and Rollei user)

Date: Sat, 4 Jul 1998
From: Todd Belcher [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Off Topic: Where to get Zero Halliburton Foam?

I think the reason that the Halliburton foam is so expensive that it is a special type of foam that will not disintigrate like the other stuff.I was replacing the foam in a camera case of mine and discovered a shop here in Vancouver Canada that sells only foam. The sales person there explained to me that there is special type of foam that they order for replacement of foam for mechanical instruments, inculding camera cases. It seems that when foam was first made they didn't really know how long it would last. After several years they found out that it would disintegrate, so they came up with a different formulation that would last a long time. This is the high density grey foam, (although they make the disintigrating type in grey as well) and it costs quite a bit more than the regular stuff.

todd

Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998
From: Harris Goldstein [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: TLR camera: Good camera bag?

John:

Avoid the white upholstry foam, it deteriates in dust that seeks out the inside of your cameras. Use the grey foam. Many photo stores carry it; you can also find local places.

Try freezing the foam before you cut it, it tends to give you a clearer edge. I use a long, thin, filet knife.

Harris

Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998
From: John Mostrom [email protected]
Subject: RE: [KOML] Koni-Omega Rangefinder Adjustment (fwd)

My Koni-Omega Rapid fit very nicely in a small cooler I picked up from a second-hand shop for a couple of dollars. I lined the inside with some foam from computer disk drive boxes to cushion it. One problem I did not anticipate was the advance lever when you get to frame 7/8/9. It's a little tight but it still fits inside.

I got the cooler Idea out of an article in Shutterbug. It's not crush proof but will take quite a beating before the camera gets damaged. Mine isn't watertight but there are some that are. It's not theft proof but it sure doesn't look like a camera bag!

To fit my new 180mm lens, I imagine that I will have to move to a bigger cooler or put the lens and other stuff in a different bag (or cooler; can't you see it, this guy at the park with three or four beatup coolers and a tripod struggling along?)

Just a suggestion,
John

>Anyone have a good suggestion on a camera bag to fit the Rapid 100 and
>some lenses in.  I have a leather bag that is getting a bit cramped to
>use.  Would appreciate any suggestions.
>
>Peter K 

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 98
From: melhus [email protected]
Subject: [KOML] Camera Bag

I just picked up a Tamrac 767 for my K-O rig. It holds the following:

K-O Rapid M with 58 mm lens attached
58 mm finder in its case
90 mm lens
180 mm lens
4 Film backs (counting the one on the camera)
Lightmeter, cleaning cloth, misc filters, film, etc.

I was also able to get the side packs which could also hold a lot. Or you could strap a tripod on the side.

The best things about this setup were:

1) It was 30% off at Helix, so I paid $120 for the bag.

2) The backpack straps are extremely comfortable; it has a center clip for the arm straps, and a waist strap.

3) The foam protectors inside are movable, and seem to work really well. Customization is very simple.

4) During my trekking weekend before last, I slipped into a stream, and the bag was partially submerged for about 5 seconds. A few drops of water got in, but not enough to damage anything. So all my K-O stuff is in fine shape after this mishap. Gotta think that the money spent on the bag has paid for itself at least twice over (relative to the cost of a CLA on everything.)

There might be a way to squeeze in a second body at the expense of one of the backs, etc. There's also enough space to get the 135 mm lens (but I don't have one now, so it's not an issue.)

Good luck with whatever you go with.

Martin F. Melhus | PDGA# | Where would we be without
[email protected] | 11296 | hypothetical questions?

Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Off Topic: Where to get Zero Halliburton Foam?

Try a local craft or sewing center store for foam. They may have different sizes and degrees of densities.

Bob

rec.photo.misc
From: [email protected] (Allan Brown)
[1] Re: foam for self made case
Date: Wed Jul 15 1998

Go to a place that sells foam for boats.

Allan

rec.photo.equipment.misc
From: [email protected] (DKTEAT)
[1] Re: Camera Vest
Date: Tue Jul 21 1998

Wayne,

I have been the photo vest routet and sold them all (had a nikon, domke, bazooby). I went to a local outdoors store and purchased a fannypack with a padded water bottle holder on each side. It allows me to carry a flash, meter, 17mm lens, 100 macro (fits nicely into one of the water bottle holders), angle view finder, set of three extension tubes, a bunch of film, lens brush, remote release, flash extention cable and a raincoat that folds and lashes to the bottom. It is comfortable and easy to carry, I carry a water bottle in the other side.

What I found with vests is this amount of gear (which I don't feel is excessive) puts quite a strain on the sholders. Especially if you are carrying a camera mounted on a tripod over your shoulder. I acutally carry two bodies (one with slide film the other with print film), one on the tripod with a 100-400mm telephoto and the other around my neck with a 28-135mm on it.

The fanny pack was about $60 and came with water bottles, its more flexible and quite comfortable with the wide (wing type) belt to spread the weight out. I know there are some extremely comfortable vest out there but most are extremely expensive. The other problem I had was when the weather turned cold the loaded vest was to small to wear on the outside of a bulky coat and to big (loaded) to wear inside my coats. The fanny pack belt allows me to adjust for this. I also have an Orion AW fanny pack and seldom use it as the $60 fits my needs better the way it is layed out.

Just my $0.02 hope it helps....

From: "Mikael Thieme" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Camera Vest
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998

> I am looking for a Camera Vest (jacket) to use when in the feild doing wildlife
> photography. I have seen the Domke vest and like it except for the most important
> factor, this vest would be way too hot hiking in the 30+*C heat. Any suggestions
> on other vests that may be similar but cooler.

Wayne,

you might want to consider some type of combat vest/belt rather than a dedicated camera vest.

They are found at army surplus stores or military shops, and comes in a variety of flavours. Typically thay are rugged, more or less water-resistant (though not -proof) and house more than one would like to lug around anyway. They often have a belt to take some weight off your shoulders, and you won't get too hot like with a vest either.

Regards,
Mikael Thieme

From: Philip Quaife [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Photographers vest
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998

Chicknpiza wrote:
>
>
>   Are there any disadvantages to these vests?  How important is weight
> distrubtation on the vest?  I'll have one lens at 2.9 pounds and 8.5 inches
> long and some lenses little less than a pound and a little more than a  pound
> I don't want it to slug to one side all day when i take a lens out.  Is  this
> ever a problem?

Photo vests are great but take a careful look at the one you like before you buy it. Some of them have METAL studs down the front which will scratch you equiment. Even hard plastic will do this, so whichever you buy should have either Velcro fasteners exclusively or a seam of cloth that covers the metal fasteners.

I believe you will find they all distribute the weight in pretty much the same way.

Phil

From: "Dale Wambaugh" dalewambaugh@*sprynet.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc,rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Camera Bag Advice needed
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998

Camera bags seem to fall into two groups: storage and working bags. Most bags are suited to sit in your closet or the trunk of your car and protect your gear well. Dust, moisture and vibration are the villans when storing or traveling. Working bags allow free access to your gear and allow you to worm your way through doorways, crowds, run down a flight of stairs and survive the adventure.

I use a Domke bag made for the Nikon A4F and it works well. There is a large main compartment with a simple velcro-in-place divider, two loops that fold two short or one long lens each and two large outside pockets with velco-ed flaps. There is also a slim compartment across the front of the bag. This will hold two bodies, three extra lenses, a tilting flash head (Vivitar 283), a meter and all the cables, filters and film I can bear.

I've had larger bags that were wonderful for making a nylon display case, but this is one I can WORK from.

If you want to really travel and protect your gear, I lke the Pelican-style gasketed, air-tight cases. For fade-into-the-woodwork stuff I use an Eagle Creek Wanderer bag: it looks like a tourist rig and doesn't scream "STEAL ME."

From: John Buford [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Camera Bag Advice needed
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998

Dear Andrey:

All of the suggestions sound good to me. I happen to prefer billingham bags. The best way to purchase a bag is to go to the store and load it up and put it on you shoulder, and see if you like it. The other thing Avoid Tenba bags like the plague. To make their bags waterproof tthey put a chemical on the fabric, and with age this shemical disentigrates and deposites itself a fine powder all over your equipment. They refuse to honor the warranty when this happens, this powder worked it way into one of my cameras and it needed to be repaired.

HTH
John

I doubt they will scratch unless you don't have any sort of lens hood attached (even a collapsible one), and the front element is not recessed. Then again, I don't know what strange things(swiss army knives, screwdrivers, etc.) you keep in your camera bag, although even a cable release rattling around can do damage. I also don't like the idea of getting dust on the lens. So I always cap my lenses. I also secure them, so they don't rattle too much. You have your hard earned money tied up in these, so why be so lazy, and risk damaging your equipment.

Jack wrote:

> I'm wondering whether the camera bag and my moving in around while I
> walk will scratch the glasses on the lens.  Do I have to always recap
> the lenses if I don't use them or will the glass parts be safe enough
> from scratches when I move around?  And must I worry about whether the
> camera bag insides is smooth or velvety?
> --
> Remove  to reply by email:
> [email protected]

From Nikon Digest:
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998
From: "William H. Cassing" [email protected]
Subject: Bag for F5 stuff

FWIW, I recently traded in my Domke bags for LowePro's. The Domke's are excellent bags - finest materials, extremely well made, adaptable - but... My equipment tends to get banged about a bit. I wanted something with a bit more padding, and I wanted a carry system that lent itself to conversion from a "fanny pack" to a day pack. When not in use (very seldom), my equipment is stored in an aluminum case with tear-out foam. That case, by the way, was chosen because it looks more like a took case than a camera case, and it has been deliberately battered and scarred on the outside to make it less attractive to thieves. I am using the LowePro Orion AW to carry the equipment I use regularly. I am considering getting an Off Road or a Sideline Shooter for those times when I need to travel light and fast. My wife uses an Orion for her gear. It's a bit smaller, but it fits her needs, and she really likes the purple color. We have found one added advantage of using these bags; the curvature of the "fanny pack" design makes these bags ride better when carried by the shoulder strap.

When you are ready to choose a bag, take the advice of the many pro's out there who would advise you to take the gear to a local (trusted and helpful) camera shop (here's my plug for Pardee's in Sacramento, CA, USA; great selection & great people) and try to fit it into any bag or case that catches your eye. You can "fine tune" later, but at least you will have an idea as to whether the bag will carry the gear you need. Also, don't limit yourself to one bag; if you shoot more than one type of picture, there's a good chance you will have use for more than one type of bag. I recall a comment by a pro who travels all over the world - something like, "I carry more than one body, more than one lens, different types of film and a bunch of filters, because I have different needs at different times; why shouldn't I have more than one type of bag?"

Good luck.

From Nikon Digest:
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998
From: Anthony Brett Schreck [email protected]
Subject: Re: bag for F-5

I'll add my bag to the ongoing list of choices too. I converted a Mountainsmith day pack, with Domke inserts and converted an old backpack shoulder harness to fit it. The pack holds:20-35, 85 or 105 micro(depending on what I'm doing) 50 1.4, 16 2.8, 80-200 2.8, F-5, sb26(2 if needed) 2 Domke 6 slot filter pouches with an assortment of filters, sc17 cord, a mountainsmith small mesh pouch w/small photoflex light disc, maglight, flash filters(rosco gels), swiss army knife, lens paper, cable release. Other modular pouches made to attach to the pack hold extra batteries, tiffen nd grad filter, cokin P adapter, 20 rolls of film and incident/flash meter. Plus I can clip my Gitzo carbon fiber pod to it via utility cord and carabiners.

- --
Tony Schreck
Anthony Brett Schreck Photography
e-mail: [email protected]
web page: http://www.absphoto.com/~absphoto

rec.photo.misc
From: [email protected] (Kay Lancaster)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.misc,rec.photo.help
[1] Re: Best camera bag?
Date: Fri Sep 04 1998

>> I just got a new camera and am looking for a convenient camera bag to
>> protect the camera when I toss it into my car, etc...
>>
>> Any suggestions on the 'best' bag to get?  I don't want something too
>> large.  My camera is a Nikon N70 with 24-120 lens..

IMHO, the best are the things that don't look much like a camera bag. Some examples: gasketed dive boxes (esp. if you're going to be in dusty conditions), small lunch box type coolers, diaper bags, etc. Fill with upholstery foam with appropriate cutouts for equipment, or buy the regular foam inserts made for hardshell camera cases.

Kay Lancaster [email protected]

From: "JCS" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Where can I buy foam for my camera case....
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998

A still cheaper way to this problem is to get a few packaging foam pads (you know the gray buddles) from your local electronic stores. These packaging foam pads are free and most stores just threw them away. A better solution might even be visiting your local Airborn Express station (for example) and get their free padded envelopes. I have found both methods work for me ...and they are excellent materials and cost me NOTHING. Yes, you will have to cut and paste and do all kind of work like that to fit your camera case.

Local fabric stores (like Paterson Silks), however, might have what you are looking for for $8/yard.

Hope this helps,
Joe

Andrsnsm wrote in message

>A cheap way is to buy it at fabric shops or craft shops.  You have to cut it
>since it is not cubed but if you take a little time it works fine.  

rec.photo.misc
From: Mike Paterson [email protected]
[1] Re: Camera Vest??
Date: Sun Sep 13 1998

I lucked out and found a great vest in a sporting goods store. It is a fishing vest. Has all the needed pockets plus a few nice extras. Have tried finding one for a friend and have had limited luck lately. The new vests seem to be a lot different in design.

Good Luck,

Mike Paterson
Paterson Photography

rec.photo.technique.nature
From: [email protected] (MJohn27603)
[1] Backpack for camera
Date: Fri Sep 18 1998

I would like to get something to carry a couple camera bodies, lenses, and tripod to take with me on some day hikes out West. However, I was absolutely stunned by the price of camera bags. I can't understand how a glorified backpack could end up costing $100-400!!! How much different can they be from the $30 pack I used to carry my books in as a college student? I'm sure tempted to try to fashion my own bag out of a regular backpack. I could get awful creative for 20% of the cost. However, if anyone has any recommendations for backpack ideas I'm all ears. Thanks.

Regards,
Mike Johnson

From: "Geoff Wise" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.technique.nature
Subject: Re: Backpack for camera
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998

Use your normal hiking pack and add the following. I use neoprine stubby holders (a stubby is a small beer bottle and neoprine is what wetsuits are made of). In these stubby holders I pack 35mm lenses. My L Series zoom lens goes in the semi padded lens case that came with the lens. I searched camera stores and came across an second hand small video camera case to hold my Canon A2. I am looking at a Zing neoprine camera case. The lenses I fit into one water resistant Outdoor Research pouch and the filters etc into another OR pouch. The camera will go into a water resistant pouch too, at the moment I use a large clip lock plastic bag. By having this configuration I can pack my 95 litre capacity hiking pack with ease. I have found that if I am doing a "four seasons" walk I can only fit about eight days food in the pack so space is critical. If I am base camping I include a very small day pack which folds out to carry all the camera gear. This I used on my last 13 day bushwalk in Tasmania.

Hope this helps.

Geoff Wise Wise's Wilderness [email protected] http://www.zip.com.au/~wises PO Box 3042R, Rosemeadow NSW 2560, Australia MJohn27603 wrote

>I would like to get something to carry a couple camera bodies, lenses, and
>tripod  to take with me on some day hikes out West.  However, I was absolutely
>stunned by the price of camera bags.  I can't understand how a glorified
>backpack could end up costing $100-400!!!  How much different can they be from
>the $30 pack I used to carry my books in as a college student?  I'm sure
>tempted to try to fashion my own bag out of a regular backpack.  I could get
>awful creative for 20% of the cost.  However, if anyone has any recommendations
>for backpack ideas I'm all ears.  Thanks.
>
>Regards,
>Mike Johnson

From: Keith Clark [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Photo Vests
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998

entity wrote:

> Hi all...
>
> Wondering if I could get some info on a good vest. I don't know much about
> these things so I'd appreciate some tips too, on how to see if it's a good
> one...
>
> Thanks!
> Kev

Kev,

Make sure it's indestructible, comfortable, roomy enough for what you'll be carrying - including lunch and extra hiking items if you're in the woods, comfortable, and padded enough to prevent damage to your gear.

Check out http://www.vestedinterest.com/

Also check out a travel clothing catalog. Many of them have better deals than many camera stores. My second vest is from Banana Republic. A much better value than Tamarac vests, BTW...

Keith

From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Photo Vests
Date: 21 Sep 1998

I bought a photo vest from Woolrich a couple of years ago for about $35. This vest has everything the "big boys" have(including a place for your lunch). I am extremely happy with this and not run across very many of them.

From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.technique.nature
Subject: Re: Biking with a camera
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998

[email protected] (Guy Tal) wrote:

> Hi folks,
> I would like to hear from people who mountain-bike with camera gear. What
> type of equipment do you carry, what kind of pack etc.
> I tried it several times with the camera in a backpack but I always find
> it's either too heavy (carrying too much equipment) or too bulky (tried it
> with a LowePro Photo Trekker).
>
> Thanks,
> Guy
> Spyra Nature Photography Project (http://www.spyra.com)

If you are going to carry one body with maybe two lenses, I would suggest a chest mounted support sytem, rather than a packpack. It is much more accessible that way. Drop by and visit the site listed below and view some the unusual gear there. The same cases that mount on the front can be attached to belt too. An extra lens pouch or two can be attached to the ouside of the Zoom cases shown in this site for more capacitiy.

Richard Stum
Kinesis Photo Gear
http://www.KinesisGear.com
Modular belt and long lens case system.

From USENET rec.photo newsgroups:
From: Ron Frank [email protected]
Subject: Re: Photo Vests
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998

I have a Domke vest. I picked it up at a "out of business" sale for maybe $40. I find I don't use it much. He's some thoughts.

Pros
• The vest is lightweight and comfortable.
• It has a lot of pockets, and is handy when switching backs, or lenses (small glass), or filters.
• Its made well enough that even heavy glass in not in danger of ripping the pockets.
• I find the pockets are useful for things other than gear, and it can replace a small fanny pack.

Cons
• It has very little padding and does NOT replace a camera bag.
• It is useless in the rain, and will not protect equipment.
• Dirt, sand, etc. gets into the pockets, and must be removed prior to storing gear.
• One can not really store bigger glass (80-200f2.8) in the pockets. It results in the thing pulling and being off balance, and the lenses is not well protected. Very uncomfortable for hikes with any amount of equipment beyond a body, and small lens.
• On a hot day, it's just another layer. On a cold day it offers little in the way of warmth.

By in large I find the vest useless for any outing of more than maybe an hour. I generally use it when I'm doing portraits, have my bags or cases right there, and just want to use the pockets for gear in use. For example, I'll stuff and extra back, film, the light meter, and a warming filter, batteries, and a flash in the pocket, and proceed with the shoot. This gives me freedom to roam around a bit ISO the light, or background I want carrying the stuff I need for a series of shots.

For hiking and shooting IMOpinion these things are somewhat worthless since they do NOT replace a camera bag. Because the are not a substitute for a bag, I end up with my pack (Lowe orion pro AW BTW is an awesome day pack), and the vest is something else to drag along. I wear shorts with a bunch of pockets, so that is my spot for dark slides, meters, filters, etc. while shooting.

There are a couple vests which have much better padded systems for gear. However I've not found one yet that can replace a bag, and be comfortable to wear and hike in, and really protect the gear. The padded vests also run in the $200 range. One can purchase a heck of a nice pack for that.

I use my photo vest more for fishing than photography.

Good luck

Ron

entity wrote:

> Hi all...
>
> Wondering if I could get some info on a good vest. I don't know much about
> these things so I'd appreciate some tips too, on how to see if it's a good
> one...
>
> Thanks!

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc,rec.photo.misc
Subject: Re: Photo Vests

I use a fishing vest from the local sporting goods/Army-Navy store. I bought some felt from the fabric store to add some padding in the pockets I carry a lens and an extra body in. Works great at less than $30!!

From: Mike Shipman [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.technique.nature
Subject: Re: Photo Vests
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998

Yep. When I wear the vest, I usually carry a set of extension tubes, either a 28-80mm or 75-300mm, depending on what I have on the camera, a couple Cokin P filters and holder, 3-4 rolls of film, remote/shutter release, and lens brush. That's if I'm not bringing the camera bag. Otherwise, I only carry an extra lens, filters, and remote. Certainly the pockets aren't large enough to carry everything, but like you said, who ever carries all their gear in a vest? In my case, my camera bag is a LowePro Nova 4, which gets kinda heavy after a while. The vest distributes the weight more evenly (also, since I don't have a LowePro Trekker or Orion, the vest half doubles as a "pack"). For those of us who can't afford a "real" photo vest, we make do with what we can get, which, on the whole, works for us until we can get something "better".

From: [email protected] (Ivanpour)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Photo Vests
Date: 8 Oct 1998

Try: Campmor Summer Catalog page 213:

Trail Design Travelers vest II Colors: Loden and Khaki $19.97

They are a mail order house at 1800-226-7667

I bought this vest and like it better than the fishing vests becuase the pockets are much larger. Has about 20 pockets total. some inside ( security) 9 outside. The fishing vests will hold film and small lenses but much more than that. You can call and ask for a catalog

From: Helen Leung [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Camera durability question
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998

when I went backpacking, all I did was wrap the camera and lenses in those bubble wraps.. they're light and doesn't take much spaces. Of course, investing in a good quality camera bag (like the backpack style is good too if you have the money).

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: [email protected] (Terry Danks)
[1] Re: Photo Vests....Need Input.
Date: Tue Oct 27 1998

[email protected] wrote:

>Hi All knowing ng readers. I need some help. I want to get a photo
>vest(I think) [snip]

An economical alternative is a game vest mail-ordered from Cabelas. While the dividers between some storage pockets are too thin to prevent heavy items from "clunking" together, I find them satisfactory. There are two pockets that easily accomodate a body with standard lens mounted... nice when you get caught in the rain.

Terry Danks
Nova Scotia
CANADA
http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/danksta/home.htm

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: Me [email protected]
[1] Re: Photo Vests....Need Input.
Date: Tue Oct 27 1998

Joe,

I have four vests and, by far, the best one is a Banana Republic camera vest. They come large. I wear XL shirts, but use their Large vest. I've had this vest for about six years. Great buy.

Michael

From: Helen Leung [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Camera durability question
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998

when I went backpacking, all I did was wrap the camera and lenses in those bubble wraps.. they're light and doesn't take much spaces. Of course, investing in a good quality camera bag (like the backpack style is good too if you have the money).

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998
From: Bruce Wilson [email protected]
Subject: RE: Source for Camera Case Foam

Stuart,

I recently bought some "pick and pluck" style material from Porter's Camera. It is described in their catalog. The packaging claims it meets mil spec. I find it to be medium firmness.

Bruce

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998
From: "Wood, Jim" [email protected]
Subject: RE: Source for Camera Case Foam

Anyone know a good aftermarket source for camera case foam?

One source I've used for all kinds of foam (I used to do alot of custom canoe and kayak outfitting) in New England is the M. H. Stallman Co.. They are located in Providance R.I., 401-331-5129.

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998
From: "Stuart A. Pearl" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Source for Camera Case Foam

Funny how we sometimes overlook low tech local sources for our camera needs. Anyone requiring camera case foam can probably find what they need by browsing local Yellow Pages listings under "Upholstery" or "fabric" stores.

Just paid $13 for a 3" x 2ft x 3ft piece of high density gray foam at a local reupholstery shop; place was a real hole in the wall: fabric piled high, barely room to walk, just waiting for Lady O'Leary's cow to visit. The owner claimed he gets this sort of request periodically so he tries to keep pieces and scraps on hand. The foam looks and feels like the material currently in my case so I'll give it a try.

- Stu [email protected]

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998
From: "Stuart A. Pearl" [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Foam Cutting Tips

The upholstery fellow who sold me my foam gave me a few cutting tips. He said that a long sharp serrated bread knife is very helpful for cutting large chunks of material. He also liked the electric carving knife method (ie.- ELM version of a Sabatier or Heinckels 8-). Sharp paring and steak knives are good for small cuts as well as the Olfa and similar snap off razor blade knives that are commonly found in wallpaper and hardware stores. I usually keep a large stock of these on hand for mat cutting, kid's school projects, etc. All of these are good for making cuts all the way through the foam.

He also suggested that if you just want to SCOOP out a small depression in the foam (not make the cut clear through to the bottom of the case), first freeze the foam and then remove the desired amount with a spoon. This would be helpful if you wanted a small storage area for screws, short cords, film, etc. Very low temperature makes the foam more rigid and easy to scrape. Obviously, freezing a large piece of material would be quite challenging unless you tackled the project in January in one of our northern climes.

- Stu [email protected]

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: phil taylor [email protected]
[1] Re: Lowepro Trekker Bags
Date: Wed Dec 02 1998

DFranz8260 wrote:

> >I am trying to decide between the Photo Trekker AW and the Nature Trekker
> >AW
>
> I have the Nature Trekker and the Pro Trekker.  However when I  purchased the
> pro trekker they sent me the AW by mistake and I was able to evaluate it.
> Biggest difference in the Nature Trekker and the AW is the harness  system and
> IMHO the Nature Trekker's is far superior.

Has anyone actually worn one of those bags when it was full of equipment?? I have one and filled, it contains the following: 2 600si's (one w/ the vertical control grip) 20mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8 50mm f1.7, 100mm f2.8 Macro, 135 f2.8, 200 f2.8, 400 f4.5, 75-300 f4.5-5.6, 35-105 f3.5-4.5, 3 3500xi flashes, a macro slider, an AF extension tube, a 1.4x and a 2x converter, various filters, and 10+ rolls of film and strapped to it a Bogen 3021 tripod w/ a 3038 head or a 3047 head. I have never weighed this stuff in the bag, but I know darn good and well I could never carry it any distance on my back. I just use mine in the front seat of my truck so I can lay everything out and carry it by hand where I want to go. I have a small Canon backpack that works just fine to actually use as a backpack. All the trekkers, except the Mini trekkers just get too darn heavy when filled up, and heck if you aren't going to fill it up, get the smaller one anyway.

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: ed romney [email protected]
[1] Re: Lowepro Trekker Bags
Date: Tue Dec 01 1998

Why people buy any kind of camera case or bag so expensive it fairly screams, "Steal Me" has always been a mystery . Domke or Perrin or that aluminum stuff, I simply can't understand it. I have often kept camera equipment in a diaper bag or an empty camper's soft drink icebox. People don't steal diapers. There is heat protection too. I have also used various surplus military packs and a battered case that salesmen once carried samples in for holding my Graphic outfit. . Many nice bags and packs good for cameras are now German and other NATO Army surplus. You even find Russian surplus bags now. They are low cost and good looking. I never had anything stolen since the one time I checked my Graflex in a university coat and hat check place 40 yrs ago--- and they got the lens. (Typical liberal academics I guess) In Boston I used to carry my Leica IIIF in an Argus C4 case because I hated answering questions about it. Nowadays I always put electricians tape over where it says "Nikon" on my eveready case for the little FG. You see, I don't want to discuss Nikon vs Canon any more with bystanders if I can help it. Anyway I plan to go on using cheap camera cases. I put the money saved into really good lenses. Yours faithfully, Ed Romney.

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: [email protected] (Tom)
[1] Re: Checking Camera equipment at Baggage
Date: Sun Dec 06 1998

"Alan L." [email protected] wrote:

>Should be lots of opinions on this one so here is mine.
>
>I would personally not buy any bag, case or luggage that advertises to every
>thief out their that "hey their is some expensive stuff in this bag"!  When
>I have to check on my camera stuff I purchased an inexpensive very plain
>looking sampsonite hard suitcase.  I packed if full of foam and cut it out
>for each peace.  It is plenty water resistant enough and the locks are junk
>but nobody steals a cheap sampsonite suitcase with all those fancy Lowe Pro
>and Pelican, and Zero Halliburton and Tumi and etc... to steal.
>
>Alan

I agree completely on your general approach non-withstanding the other posts on the possibility of essentially random theft.

My variation is that I found have an old, banged-up, originally ugly, gigantic hardsided suitcase which I bought years ago at the Price Club.

It's large enough to accept my medium Pelican case with extra layers of 2 inch thick foam on the two flat sides and blocks of thick foam all around the edges. When I get to my destination, I pull the Pelican out, check the suitcase at the first hotel I'm staying at and proceed on with minimal hassle and the ability to use the case I'm used to working out of.

To complete the effect, I usually tie an old piece of olive drab army webbing around the outside, making it look like the locks are broken, and my final touch is to close the suitcase leaving an inch or so of an old army sock hanging out.

Coming back thru BWI one night, my wife, daughter and I were standing next to two very dignified looking middle-aged women at the luggage conveyor. As my "camera suitcase" approached, I overheard them say: "..You'd think that whoever owned that thing could afford a decent suitcase if they could afford the price of a ticket....". While laughing, I picked it up, told them it was mine, and after they got through verbally backpeddling, told them that there was about $7K of Nikon equipment inside. The look on their faces was worth anything.

This method is not foolproof, but I feel a lot more confident in it after that incident.

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: [email protected] (Don Smith)
[1] Re: Checking Camera equipment at Baggage
Date: Sun Dec 06 1998

...

Some prof. production folks I know will go to Goodwill every now and then. Every so often they buy a Halliburton that they find but their fave thing is to buy a matching Samonsite set that has some butt ugly color, like Pink.

Easy to spot on the luggage carousel and darn easy to describe to the cops should it go missing. Besides, no theif want's to rip off something that's about to start glowing... I'd guess that they prefer black objects to meld into the crowd.

Don

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: [email protected] (JTWard01)
[1] Re: Camera theft: any personal accounts
Date: Mon Jan 04 1999

I had my camera bag with two Nikon FEs, several Nikkor lenses and a variety of other goodies stolen when someone broke into our newspaper office at night.

As for concealing gear, a newspaper photographer I know carries his camera bag in a large Igloo cooler in the back of his Chevy Blazer. The cooler not only keeps the camera bag a bit cooler, but he's got it labeled "Physicians Laboratory Inc.," and "Urine Specimens," on the outside of the cooler. The labels are actual medical stickers he got from his doctor. It's a pretty safe bet no casual thief is going to bother with that cooler.

John T. Ward
Brandon, Florida
USA

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: ed romney [email protected]
[1] Re: Camera theft: any personal accounts
Date: Mon Jan 04 1999

> Yes..camera theft is quite serious..and very common. I lost a lens off a Graflex in a college hat check room...didnt discover it till I got home..Typical college liberals don't believe in property rights you know. . I lost the battery out of my car at the same place. A friend lost a Graflex lens some years back shooting a wedding..He put the camera down for a moment. They quickly removed it. I have people calling me all the time asking me to help them find a duplicate of some valuable camera that was stolen. In addition to liberal colleges, places like NYC, Miami and Los Angeles are the worst for theft. I just sold a valuable Planar Rolleiflex on rec.photo.marketplace which I never took anywhere because of its value. Hardly ever used it. For years I tended to use old screw mount SLR equipment with Zeiss lenses which I bought cheaply; they didn't look like much... or when I travelled I used Leica RF which can be concealed about the person. I've NEVER owned a bag that looked like a camera case. Usually old army knapsacks or beat old suitcases or an icebox bag. I think crime is a bit less now and I have become bolder with the Nikon FE and FG outfit which I now use... but maybe I am just optimistic. I painted out the Nikon logo on the ever ready cases. Good luck..Ed Romney http://www.edromney.com

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: Godfrey DiGiorgi [email protected]
[1] Re: Other than a camera bag?
Date: Sat Jan 09 1999

I have a ton of miscellaneous bags, some photo oriented and some not, all of which are brought into use depending upon what I want to carry and when. A piece of thin closed-cell sleeping pad material makes a good separator/bump protector in these bags, and is cheap to buy at any camping goods store. The dedicated camera bags I have that I like the most are the Domke line, in canvas, because they look less like camera equipment bags then most others. I now also use the Domke photo wraps to protect individual pieces of equipment, they're great.

Godfrey

Robert Nicholson wrote:

> Do any of you keep your camera equipment in a non attention seeking
> camera bags? If so which do you use and what do you use for padding? 

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: [email protected] (EDGY01)
[1] Re: Backpacking 100 days (keeping equip safe)
Date: Thu Jan 14 1999

On my many travels out of the country when I'm on a serious weight budget, the 20mm goes with me and the 24 and 28mm stay at home (or I use the 20-35).

For lens protection, I've been using this system for MANY years,--find a source of those softdrink can insulators (mine are made of spandex coated wetsuit material). You can find them at waterskiing shops,--mine say Ski Warm, Wind Spray, etc. With the spandex coating, they hold up well from the repeated pulling off and pushing on of these things. For example, rather than packing up a 80-200 f/2.8 Nikkor AF zoom in its pretty (but seriously LARGE) case, I put one of these on from each end,--and the protection is complete. I wouldn't buy the "made for photography stuff" because it really isn't all that great. They even double as drink insulators!

[email protected]

rec.photo.equipment.misc
From: zeitgeist [email protected]
[2] Re: camera bag alternatives URL Re: Foam insert kits for + Igloo Coolers
Date: Sat Jan 16 1999

Robert Monaghan wrote:

> see my camera bag alternatives page for info on coolers, foam sources etc
>
> http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/bags.html

You have some good information there.

I have struggled for years with various bags. And I've f**** up my back seriously with carrying a heavy one everyday for years.. So I had to go to rolling luggage. I went though various kinds. Right now I think I have my own solution.

I got a lawyer's style salesman's case, with the colapsible handle and wheels. This is the best of both. I've used the top opening cases for years, I like putting the film and lenses on the lower layer, and my camera fits on top, with the workhorse lens and bellows all in place, ready to go. But for years, I had to strap this on those flimsy metal luggage dollies. Now I have both in one good looking package, that looks like boring legal papers, not valuable stuff.

HOwever, I did use the recycled furniture foam. I'll have to dig up some grey matter.

rec.photo.technique.nature
From: "jdh" [email protected]
[1] Re: Backpacking with photo equipment
Date: Mon Jan 18 1999

It is alot of weight, but I find if I take a normal type photo backpack and put it on backwards, so it is on my chest instead of my back, and then take my normal backpack and put it on normally, the weight is somewhat distributed evenly. Hope you're in good shape. Have fun, it is a beautiful area!

Jeff

[Ed. note: another use for foam - camera blimp (sound reducer)]
From Nikon Digest:
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999
From: Bill Erfurth [email protected]>
Subject: Damping sound of Camera [v04.n201/9]

Rolland Elliott wrote:
Subject: Dampening the Sound by using a CS-13 blimp Case

I'll be doing some theatrical photography soon and would like my camera to be as quiet as possible.

- - - - snip - - -
Hi Rolland,

Have you considered getting some "Sound Absorbing Foam"?? It is used, for among other things, to dampen the sound of printers. You should be able to get some from an industrial foam dealer or try a computer repair facility.

Once you have it, construct a little pouch for the camera to fit into. The more layers of foam you use the quieter the camera gets.

Regards,
Bill Erfurth

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: "Ron Walton" [email protected]
[1] Re: Bean Bags?
Date: Sun Jan 31 1999

Kirk enterprises. www.kirkphoto.com Look under camera supports. At one time I used a 2 pound bag of rice with duct tape over the bag's seams so it wouldn't break if I dropped it.

--
Ron Walton
Visit the BPC http://www.bpc.photographer.org

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: "G-Man" [email protected]
[1] Re: Bean bag support
Date: Mon Feb 08 1999

I just use nylon small ditty or medium (ditty bags with draw strings and fill them with beans. Total price about $5 each.

You don't need heavy beanbags, you want just enough support to keep it steady.

If you want to buy them professionally made, Kirk Enterprises makes the Kirk Hugger beanbags in two sizes: regular size 7 inch height and empty for $22.95, filled with poly pellets $25.95; and 9 inch height $32.95 empty, filled with poly pellets $35.95. Check out their website http://www.kirkphoto.com shows photos of them, as well as, many other kinds of support devices. Kind of pricey for me.

Regards,
Galen

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: [email protected] (MicroGrid)
[1] Disintegration of foam in Adapta-Case
Date: Wed Feb 10 1999

I had quite a bit of photographic equipment stored in an Adapta-Case. The foam in this case has almost disintegrated, and a lot of the foam is stuck to my equipment. I did a web search for this company, and a dejanews search, and can not find anything on this subject.

Has anyone experienced this? Any results from cleaning attempts? [email protected]

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: "C.L.Zeni" [email protected]
[1] Re: Disintegration of foam in Adapta-Case
Date: Wed Feb 10 1999

MicroGrid wrote:

> I had quite a bit of photographic equipment stored in an Adapta-Case.  The foam
> in this case has almost disintegrated, and a lot of the foam is stuck  to my
> equipment. I did a web search for this company, and a dejanews search,  and can
> not find anything on this subject.
>
> Has anyone experienced this? Any results from cleaning attempts?

I have not experienced it with photo equipment but with other items in old foam lined boxes etc. The only thing that I found that would remove the dead foam was denatured alcohol, and that required soaking etc. Lacquer thinner or acetone didn't even faze the stuff...it's insidious.

--
Craig Zeni - REPLY TO -->> clzeni at mindspring dot com

http://www.mindspring.com/~clzeni/index.html

rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: [email protected] (John J Stafford)
[1] Re: Disintegration of foam in Adapta-Case
Date: Wed Feb 10 1999

>  I had quite a bit of photographic equipment stored in an Adapta-Case.
>  The foam in this case has almost disintegrated, and a lot of the foam
>  is stuck to my equipment. I did a web search for this company, and a
>  dejanews search, and can not find anything on this subject.
>
>  Has anyone experienced this? Any results from cleaning attempts?

Oh, yes. It has happened to me a couple times. The short answer: GOO GONE! It's the stuff you use to remove the goo left under old, sticky labels. It worked for me. Buy a small bottle and try it out. Available in any good hardware store (ace, for example.)

Just exercise normal care and don't let it run into the camera's internals.

Note! If the foam rotted, then there is a fair chance that the equipment inside may have similar problems. The foam mirror-bumpers (whatever you call them) rot away, too. (Fix for that: have someone else replace them or get them from MICRO TOOLS and do it yourself.)

rec.photo.equipment.misc
From: "Dakota" [email protected]
[2] Re: camera bag alternatives page URL Re: Source for camera cases
Date: Wed Mar 17 1999

Hi Bob,

Great page you've got there, and I love the concept!

All I'm after though is something that will give a little protection to a very small camera. I plan on using a Pentax 115M while hiking in the backcountry; it's not a whole lot larger than a pack of cigarettes, and will spend most of it's time in my day pack. Theft and water aren't an issue; just don't want it getting all scratched up.

Robert Monaghan wrote

>see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/bags.html - camera bag alternatives pages
>
>coolers, diaper bags (theft-proof, lenses=bottles, padded,

rec.photo.equipment.misc
From: [email protected] (Robert Monaghan)
[2] Re: camera bag alternatives page URL Re: Source for camera cases
Date: Wed Mar 17 1999

ah - I see - actually, I frequently carry around an Olympus XA style camera in my pocket, and as I have dust/dirt/lint in the same pocket (from the original big bang as far as I can tell), I always just put the camera in a zip lock baggie and fold it over. It is cheap, and if I get caught in a downpour, no problem for the camera at least. I also have a spare film (36 exp) in a film can.

I used a surplus winter glove for an earlier $2 motorized point and shoot camera from a garage sale - worked great - 35mm, small flash - somewhat water and definitely snow resistant ;-)

However, an old style small lens case with drawstring might be more like what you are looking for?

Finally, consider a bit of foam rubber and wet suit cement (from a dive store?) or glue and custom cut a protective cover - you can buy material in 1/8, 3/16 or 1/4 inch thickness - or recycle foam from a drink cooler holder ;-)

regards bobm

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999
From: jiversen [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Camera bags

Thank you for some very informative hints. Re changing bags. When my daughter was little we returned to the car after dining out to find the window smashed in and the only bag on the backseat stolen. It was the changing bag with dirty diapers............ Still a good joke after 11 years.

Rgds

John Iversen

[Ed. note: I received this commercial email, possibly of some interest to someone with a great idea for a new camera bag? ;-)]
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998
From: jaeyang [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Camera Carrying Bags

Dear Prospective Customer,

Established in 1978, JaeYang Industry Co, Ltd. is both a manufacturer and a exporter of accessories, cases, and pouches for equipments such as digital cameras, cellular phones, laptop bags, walkmans, and also other non high tech equipments such as sporting bags and backpacks. Due to our distinguished technology in this business, we currently have Sony, Casio, Philips, Pentax, and many other great companies as our long-term customers.

Our quality and customer service in this industry surpasses our competitors, which helps us grow every year. With this growth, we are investing all our efforts in Research & Development to make our products a leader in this industry and also to maintain 100% customer satisfaction. We constantly strive to meet the demands of every single customer we have. Should you have any questions or further interest in our company, please look at our home page at www.jaeyang.co.kr and/or contact us at:

Address: 501 Dong Sung Bldg.                Phone: 82-2-2242-2882(~5)
  488-17 DapShipNi 5-dong                          82-2-2245-6296 (fax)
  DongDaeMoon-gu                            Mail : [email protected]
  Seoul, Korea

Thank you very much��.

Sincerely,

S.B. Kim
President

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999
From: Jim Stewart [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bag for 500CM

Shaun O'Boyle wrote:

> Hi all,
> I'm looking for suggestion on a small pouch or bag I can carry a 500CM with
> A12 and 80 or 50 attached.  This bag will be used when I have a larger pack
> and don't want the camera to rattle around in the pack so I am looking for
> something small, padded and rugged that will fit the above nice and snug.
> I'm picturing a small zippered rectangular case or a padded pouch with draw
> strings, no shoulder straps necessary.

I use a Case Logic case that was made for carrying audio cassettes. It's a little bigger than what you're looking for, it can carry the 500cm/80mm/a12/lens hood plus a spotmeter or another a12. It has a shoulder strap and a zippered pouch on the front. I added a piece of high density packing foam to the bottom and another to separate the 500cm from the extra mag or spotmeter. The case was really cheap. I think I got it at circuit city or goodguys.

Jim

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999
From: "Cordasco, Anthony (NJ Data Services)" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Bag for 500CM

I have a Browning gun case which has foam which can be removed/rearranged to exactly fit the camera, body, back, etc. Very strong case and a great deal of protection as noting moves even a fraction of an inch inside. It may be more than you wanted but it is nice for traveling as it is water proof, and has a dial to allow equalization of pressure when on airplanes.

Hope that helps,

Anthony

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999
From: Gary Cunningham [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Bag for 500CM

Browning hard cases are made by Pelican Products and sold under their own brand name. Available with pick & pluck foam, dividers or custom cut foam. I have several for guns and cameras and can recommend them also. I've only seen one crack and the company replaced it with no hassle. I've heard the military used these to drop equipment from aircraft without parachutes. They have a web sight.

rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (DaveHodge)
[1] Re: Traveling with Med.Format Outfit
Date: Thu Aug 19 1999

I travelled to Europe many times with a Mamiya 645. I reduced the "system" to a minimum by taking only the 55 and 150 lenses. I used a Lands End carry on canvas bag for all my business papers, medicines, and essential carryons. I carried the 150 lens in it leather case, and wrapped the 645 with 55 lens in bubble wrap. The film went in a lead shield bag in the carryone bag.

I usually also carried an old Minolta SRT-201 with one or two lenses. These are old, all metal cameras and lenses, and they survive in checked luggage OK. I just wrapped them in my socks! Never had a problem.

One thing to remember is you don't want to look like a rich American carrying an expensive photo-looking bag. That is why I used the Lands End carryone bag, and wrapped stuff in bubble wrap.

From Nikon MF Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999
From: "Bill" [email protected]
Subject: Neck straps.

Hi folks,

Outside of camera stores, one other place to check for a strap that doesn't cut off the circulation (or slip) is at sporting goods stores. I use a Butler Creek strap on my FE2 that was originally intended for binoculars.

The wide cell foam does a good job of spreading the load out and it 'clings' (for lack of a better word) to clothing material so it doesn't slip either. Sometimes gear made for photographers tends to be a little pricey just because it was made to be sold to a select group (Logo stamped gear aside). I found that to be the case with a decent vest also - found one at Sportsman's Guide with umpteen (17? 22?) pockets in it that does a good job for about $20 (if I recall correctly). I can't think of a 'photojournalist' vest that comes anywhere close to that in price.

It also goes to the 'stealth' mode of photography, where you may be in a neighborhood that you don't like to advertise your photo gear to the nearest thief.

Regards,

Bill Briggs
Home page http://www.csonline.net/unklbil/
Community page http://www.csonline.net/fisher

From Nikon MF Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Vs: Bag for street shooting

Hi Bob,

You can buy a PD or Sheriff gym bag from the store that sells uniforms and equipment to your local agency. If that doesn't work for you, there are several companies that sell by military and police equipment by mail order, Brigade Quartermasters being the one that pops to mind. It is legal to own and carry the bag, as long as you don't tell people you are a peace officer. You are not responsible for the assumptions of others.

Adios,

Bill Hilburn

From Nikon Digest:
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999
From: nils dahl [email protected]
Subject: [NIKON] A Useful Low Cost Waist Carrier

I was shopping a Marshall's store (irregular, discontinued, odd lots) locally for something to carry my 4004 and a few lenses in. Found a Nike carrier that looked very nice.

Nike F8-JWG(label sewn inside largest compartment) is a waist carrier with two water bottles and a belt that holds the carrier firmly in place. Adjustable for various waist sizes (don't ask my size, please). The water bottle compartments are ideal for tele and long zoom lenses. Gray nylon with a nice yellow front panel. There are straps around both water bottle compartments that allow snugging up the contents to keep them in place during vigorous activity - so long lenses stored inside dust/water proof carrying bags should stay put. Works very nicely for my 75-150 E series zoom. Yes, I have been known to store lenses inside zipper locking food bags.

Most important for me, a section in front neatly holds light meters. Yes, I still use a GE Golden Crown much of the time and occasionally carry a Minolta Spotmeter F. the carrier cost $14.95. Tag says ACG Twin Solo style 550745 Color

2. It even includes a modest shoulder strap.

Although this unit is fairly small, it could easily get quite heavy when filled with Nikon bodies and lenses.

And a comment on Nikon versus 'everyone else'. I own and have used many cameras. The only system that continues to support most of the existing lenses is the Nikon system. I intend to purchase an FE10 from B&H just to hold a different film type and complement my original FE and 4004. Of course I do occasionally look over and admire my classic Contax IIa system that can easily smash rocks but......

And a photographic learning experience. There is a movie called Where The Heart Is. Not bad as a light comedy - but where it shines is in its photographic/art scenes. The director obviously loves photography and art. Try it.

Nils Dahl
Wethersfield, Connecticut

rec.photo.equipment.large-format
From: Wayne [email protected]
[1] ammo boxes
Date: Fri Oct 29 1999

I'm probably not the first to discover this, but I found ammo boxes can be a handy thing to have around. I saw some for a few bucks apiece at the local surplus store, and thought they might make for good storage of processed film. I decided that idea might not be great after noting small areas of internal rust on some, but then decided they would suffice for temporary storage. I just returned from a 5 week photo trip and stored all my fresh film in one, in the cooler. They are waterproof and presumably dustproof as well, with a rubber gasket and tight fitting lids that clamp and lock down securely. And they're cheap. The size I bought will also hold a good number of 4x5 film holders (at a slight angle) or about 8 50 sheet boxes of film. I like 'em.

Wayne

[Ed. note: while not an alternative bag, given the cost of many Rollei accessory items, this may be of interest to other TLR owners out there...]
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999
From: Roland Smith [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] rolleiflex cases / aftermarket

Tamrac makes a case that is perfect fitting the Rolleiflex like a loose glove and offering padded protection and a small pouch in front that will accomodate a light meter and a roll of film. It is a 600 or 609, I can't recall which. The camera stands up in it. I like it better than the nrc case I have for most of my Rolleis.

Roland Smith

Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000
From: steelhead [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.technique.nature
Subject: Re: Big Lenses, How do you do it??

A good sport shop has many types of gloves for fishing. Some have fingers that may be bent back and held there with velcro so you can feel the line etc. Many lightweight styles to choose from. Perfect for photography in veryu cold weather.

steelhead

Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000
From: steelhead [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Fanny pack - great deal for photography

Try sporting goods store and look at fishing vests. They even come in kids sizes

steelhead

"Paul Brannon" wrote:

>Thanks for sharing this information.  I've been trying to find something
>like that.  I haven't done extensive searching at the local sporting goods
>stores yet, though.  The problem I have with the vests is that the smallest
>size I've seen them in is a Men's small which is still way to big for me, a
>5' 3", 110 lb. woman.  Are there any other female (or male) photographers
>out there who might have additional suggestions for ways for a small woman
>to carry gear without a huge camera bag?
>
>Brenda Brannon

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000
From: Alex & Etsuko Chan [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: A great camera bag

I recently pick up a discontinued runner's hip bag from Sharper Image for $20. It is heavily padded with 2 side water bottle holder. The main compartment is rectangular in shape, perfect for my EOS even with a Sigma 70-300. The water bottle pockets has a draw string closure which I replaced with a wide Velcro tape. The bag has 2 compression straps on each side to keep the bag snug against your hip. I believe you can buy similar bag at outdoor equipment stores ( but not for $20). The main compartment also has a compression strap to hold the equipment snug. I've even use the bag for a short shooting trip with my Mamiya 645.

It is a great alternative to a 'normal' camera bag, best of all, it doesn't look like a camera bag. The bag can easily swing around to the front of your body to stay out of harm's way ( or in a crowd). Check out your local Sharper Image store or their website, you maybe lucky enough to find one. I've got mine from their store in Honolulu.

Alex Chan
[email protected]

Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000
From: Wayne [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: On the road with 4x5

.....

Check your local army surplus store for ammo boxes. If you find the right size these are superb for keeping water and dust away from film holders and even boxes of film. They have a rubber seal and and a locking lid that clamps down tight. You could drop them in a muddy lake and pull them out bone dry. They are metal so not very good for backpacking. I use one for storing holders and also for storing film in the ice cooler on long trips.

Wayne

[Ed. note: A nifty tripod carrying/hiding trick! Thanks!!]
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000
From: Bones [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Tripod carrying suggestion

Bob - Great site!

I have backpacked (alone) through Germany, France, Morocco, and Spain, staying in youth hostels, where I had a pair of hiking boots stolen, but not my equipment!

One idea I had that worked - any item can be carried wrapped in a plain towel and strapped to the side or the bottom of your pack and no-one gives it a second thought, especially if the towel itself does not look new. As long as the tripod doesn't peek through the towel, people are not going to risk stealing a ratty backpack and towel. The key is making it look natural and not stiff - you can't make it look like something's in the towel - to check the difference, strap your towel without tripod on and compare it with tripod in it.

Cheers!

Katherine "Bones" Anderson

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000
From: "Paul Brannon" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Where to buy die-cut foam for camera/equip cases?

One alternative might be something I saw in the Porter's catalog (www.porters.com) also 1-800-553-2001. It is "Replacement Foam for Camera Cases". The description is as follows: Pre-cut high density foam pads for pluck-and-fit. Easy to create proper layout for your equipment. Use contact cement to replace squares removed in error. Material exceeds all military specs for safety and impact. Intended as replacement inserts for all cases up to 13" x 18". Item #08-0294 High Density Polyfoam Squares Replacement Set - 1 piece 18x13x2" pre-cut $10.50. Item #08-0295 is set of 2 pieces; 1 piece 18x13x2" pre-cut and 1 piece 18x13x1" not cut $11.95.

Brenda Brannon

....

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999
From: "jonathan burrows" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Camera Bag vs. Diaper Bag.....

As a proud new Dad of 16 months, I received an entry level Nikon 35mm for Christmas. Tonight I went to purchase a camera bag from Ritz Camera. Is it just me, or do these $89.00 bags have little more than a zipper and some padding? For 89.00 I could buy the best Lands End quilted diaper bag and still have enough left over for a great steak dinner for two.... Good grief! Kind of like the $4.99 I just spent on a 4x4 piece of 50% nylon/polyester... Could have bought the whole polyester/dacron shirt for only 10 bucks more at WalMart.

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999
From: "f/8" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Camera Bag vs. Diaper Bag.....

You are absolutely right. I bought a cooler bag. And it is very confortable to wear on the shoulder. It's very well padded and big enough to hold my filter cases, 2 lenses, 1 camera body, reflectors, flash, a gray card at the botttom, side pockets to hold either release cables or control remotes for my Elan, and pen a paper. All of this for just $12 bucks. Also, it opens very easily and convenient. I got the pads from my $70 camera bag!

From Nikon MF Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000
From: "Emerson Valley" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [NIKON] Preventing "gear cache" theft on vacations

When checking your equipment put you gear bag or cases in older suitcase. They are less likly to be targeted. I do that for computer equipment. It will apply to cameras too.

- -Em

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999
From: LZ [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Camera Bag vs. Diaper Bag.....

"jonathan burrows" [email protected] wrote:

> As a proud new Dad of 16 months, I received an entry level Nikon 35mm for
> Christmas.  Tonight I went to purchase a camera bag from Ritz Camera.  Is it
> just me, or do these $89.00 bags have little more than a zipper and some
> padding?  For 89.00 I could buy the best Lands End quilted diaper bag and
> still have enough left over for a great steak dinner for two.... Good  grief!

For a more "macho" look, go to Home Depot or a well stocked hardware store and check out the tool bags. There are some that are like doctor's bags, others like briefcases and one that looks like a doggone nice gadget bag (Home Depot didn't stock it, the manufacturer's rep. had one when I was looking at Home Depot). Prices are very reasonable.

Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Camera Bag vs. Diaper Bag.....

.....

Johnathan, that diaper bag is going to split at the seams after about two weeks of carrying around a camera outfit, but!!!! your point is well taken. There are lots of small backpacks and over the shoulder overnight bags that can be customized for a lot better fit (of gear) than what I've found on the market: the camera bags never quite have the right length, depth, padding configuration etc. for what I have. I went to Cal. last October-November with two camera bodies, four lenses (two in their own padded cases, including a nice big Sigma 175-500) , flash, filters, 100 rolls of film, and assorted other stuff (change of sox and underwear, e.g.) in a carryon bag (Atlantic was the brand) padded with closed cell foam that I duct taped together (couldn't find my velcro strips). Worked just great, and just pull out the foam and there's your general carryall again. You can get a closed cell foam pad 20"x72" at any Army/Navy store, price less than $10, and duct tape at any hardware store. One thing about using a diaper bag, or the like, to guard against theft: if a thief is casing a "known photographer area", they'll see the camera and won't much care what sort of bag it's in. Admittely it doesn't say "Canon" or ""Tamrac" right there on it, though.

From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999
From: "John A. Lind" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] ERC's

Twenty years ago I bought a 35T and a 35S in Germany when I was stationed there with the U.S. VII Corps. Sold the 35T earlier this year, but still have and use the 35S (last used over Thanksgiving). Took the 35T on countless field exercises during nine years of active duty. Performed flawlessly in all sorts of climate conditions. Never went on an exercise or troop deployment without it.

It fit quite conveniently in an ammo pouch or field coat pocket. Kept it protected from severe mechanical shock and moisture (rain and snow). Got photographs with it one could not get any other way. Had to be *very* careful during field exercises not to photograph specific pieces of military equipment period. Also had to keep from photographing *any* military equipment or personnel in a field location with background or view that could be used to identify where we were. However, if there was a nice landscape or architectural shot clear of military stuff, that was fair game and got quite a few of them.

.....

Date: 5 Nov 1999
From: Struan Gray [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Need Advice for Cutting Foam to Build Camera Case

John Ongtooguk, [email protected] writes:

> The flexible closed cell foam is harder to find

Many camping and outdoor stores sell approx 3ft-wide closed cell foam by the meter for use as a sleeping bag or tent underlay. If your local store doesn't have it, the places like REI (www.rei.com) or MEC (www.mec.com) sell it mail order.

Struan

Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999
From: David Albrecht [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Need Advice for Cutting Foam to Build Camera Case

Well foam stores that cater to the furniture trade will often carry foam intended for instrument cases. It's gray instead of off white and a good bit more expensive i.e. the place I went to charges around $4 for 12" x 12" x 1" of it. If you find a discount outlet for this stuff I'd be interested. As an aside Wal-Mart is carrying some not bad quality alumninum cases for <$20 ea. The foam in them would cost more than that to replace. The only cheesy part is the handle assembly which is all plastic.

Dave

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000
From: "Sherman Dunnam" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Good backpack for MF and LF (one at a time)

David Meiland [email protected] wrote

> I'm looking for a good photo pack that will let me carry either a
> folding field camera with a couple of lenses, a batch of holders, and
> a meter, OR a medium format system with a couple of lenses, back,
> meter, etc. It also needs to have straps on the exterior (side?) for a
> tripod. Wouldn't hurt if it also has room for lunch and a windbreaker
> inside. What are y'all using that you like, and where's the place to
> get it?
>
> Thanks!
> ---
> David Meiland
> Oakland, CA 

David, Having just been through this search I will offer my experience for what it is worth. First I found "dedicated" photo packs too expensive and a little limiting for what I wanted. I already had a couple of packs so I converted one and it works great. The cost was low and the interior is arranged exactly how I wanted it.

I recommend a panel loading (vs. top loading) day pack or weekender such as the Kelty Redwing. This pack has two exterior pockets in addition to the large main compartment. Next get some of the blue foam padding sold as sleeping pads in camping stores (or for much less at some department stores). Cut the foam using either a sharp knife or scissors to the size of the bottom of the pack. Then cut the foam to form sides and compartments. I used stiff cardboard to help form the basic structure then glued the foam to it using contact cement.

You can arrange the pack anyway you want to accomodate any gear. In addition if you do it right the entire thing can be lifted out and another one inserted when you change formats! Mine holds a 4x5 field camera, three lenses, light meter, two boxes of film, Polaroid holder, five regular holders, focusing cloth and more. I either strap the tripod on the outside or attach a shoulder strap to the tripod and throw it over my shoulder.

---
Sherman Dunnam
www.flyfishingjournal.com
Free software, feature articles and more!

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999
From: Godfrey DiGiorgi [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: photo equipment in desert

I and a good friend of mine spend many a happy hour banging about the playas in Nevada, where the temperatures can get brutal. We're both photographers so we are both concerned for the safety of the equipment. The desert dust and grit gets everywhere, and the heat can roast sensitive electronics and lenses.

We usually bring a big cooler for the equipment. We use a few of those frozen gel blocks at the bottom of it to keep the temperature something reasonable and keep the equipment in the cooler when we're not actually using it. Everything is wiped down and kept in a bag or under a cover anytime it's not actively in use. If you're not able to carry a cooler, at least bring an insulated bag for the camera, film, batteries. Keep things out of the sun whenever possible, clean the grit and dust off the exteriors of the camera and lenses as much as possible.

Generally speaking, mechanical and electronic cameras both fare reasonably well if you keep after them. I've had more electronic cameras fail on me than mechanicals at the extremes.

Godfrey

[email protected] wrote:

> I'm going for a short trip into the desert of Morocco. Does anyone have
> bad experience with equipment (sand !!!, heat !!!) ?
> How to avoid problems ?

Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999
From: "Henry Stanley" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: RE:Bag or Pack Ideas for LF / 8x10 - Lauvone

I just bought a Zone VI 8X10 camera and need advice from those of you who useand 8X10 in the field. Which camera bags would you recommend that I investigate? I won't be hiking too far with it, but want something to protect it when I travel and also to do maybe 1/2 mile hikes.

Hi Lauvone:

I have found that when you move up to large format, you have new challenges in packing and carrying your camera and gear. Excellent and inexpensive solutions can be found and not always in a camera store! Would you believe Wal-mart?

While not necessarily for 8x10, for getting your gear to the site somewhere away from your car or whatever, how about a nice-sized black daypack, with shoulder straps AND wheels with extendible handle like an airline case. Pretty neat and only $29.95. Carry it by handle, on your back or roll it. Inside go more Wal-Mart goodies Arctic Zone lunch cases and beverage coolers that nicely fit 4x5 woodfields, Graphics, etc., along with smaller Arctic Zone insulated cases to hold lenses in wraps, about six film holders, meters and other goodies. And a small Bogen and ballhead strap to the side. Works for the car and down the road, and will go in the overhead bin. Oh yes, it's at Wal-Mart and is called an "i-2-it" Wheeled/Daypack.

The Arctic Zones (or knock-offs) are conveniently sized and provide both foam cushioning and insulation. For 8x10, Arctic Zone makes an insulated beverage case that takes 8x10 holders perfectly, with room on the top/bottom for a couple of frozen freezer-paks if you're in the desert. Other pack-and-go solutions include larger but inexpensive rolling cases with the addition of a little foam or nylon-covered dividers. These would work for 8x10.

Date: 11 Apr 2000
From: [email protected] (CrabillW)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace.35mm
Subject: Re: Backpacking wiht camera?

Hi Guy....I had the exact same problem, TAMRAC has your answer. It consists of a set of straps with Quick disconnects @ one end & spring snaps @ the other. You use it in conjunction with a Tamrac camera strap. You snap the spring snaps onto "D" rings on your backpack shoulder straps, (just fwd of your collar bones), the other end is attached to your camera via standard plastic disconnects. The camera will hang right in front of your chest , ready for action. When you want to get out of your pack , simply unsnap your camera & snap it onto the regular neck strap. Works GREAT, I've been using this setup for 15 years with no problem. I have all my cameras rigged with Tamrac straps, so I can grab any camera & instantly attach it to my pack. A furthur advantage of this system is that you carry the weight of the camera on your pack shoulder straps, Not on you neck! I'm sure any decent camera shop can order this for you, if not Tamrac is on line. Good Luck, WJC

From: Dan Dickerson [email protected]
Newsgroups: sci.astro.amateur
Subject: Re: good source for foam
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000

David Costales wrote:

> The cost of foam apears to be expensive for the non-outgassing stuf.
> Can you use camping foam pads.  Stack them and glue them with a spray
> contact adhesive?  Is out gassing a problem if you don't plan on
> storing film in the case?

The spray adhesive will be at least as bad as the orginal foam. The outgassing will collect on the surfaces of your eyepieces. (You thought that eyelash gook and fingerprints were bad ;-) ) At my local fabric store, I was able to pick up the ester foam for about $10. It was more that twice that at a speciality foam store.

Dan

From Leica Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000
From: Jim Brick [email protected]
Subject: [Leica] Re: MY NEW 75MM SUMMILUX HAS ARRIVED!

The Domke "Postal" shoulder pad is probably the best shoulder pad in existence. It is made for postal carriers and it will snap on to any bag. I use one on my Billingham and Tenba bags. Wunderbar.

Jim

you wrote:

>The Billingham
>> bag would be a better "carrier" if it had some kind of anti-skid device
>> where the bag rests on your shoulder - 'cause it tended to capriciously
>> slide off my shoulder at the most inopportune times

From Leica Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000
From: Jim Brick [email protected]
Subject: [Leica] Re: Extra padding for Domke inserts

I did exactly the same thing only I used the foam from a backpacking sleeping pad. The Domke inserts are great and it is easy to fit them with a padded bottom.

Jim

Marthe & Rene wrote:

>Here is my solution for using a Domke insert in a non-Domke bag.
>
>Since the bottom of the Domke bags are padded their inserts are only padded
>on the sides and in-between the compartments. The Timbuk2 courier bag I
>currently use is unpadded.  I went to my local computer store and bought a 
>new $5 mouse pad. The mouse pads are made of neoprene covered on one side
by
>black felt.  I cut small squares to fit the bottom of the Domke insert
>compartments.  My wife used a needle and thread to attach each to the
>bottom. One mouse pad allowed me to make enough inserts for our three
>different Domke inserts. Now our lens sit on this neoprene inside each
>compartment and are protected from all sides except the top.
>
>Rene

From Leica Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000
From: "Dan Honemann" [email protected]
Subject: RE: [Leica] my camera bag cost eight dollars

Nice! I like the canvas shoulder bag (a little further down on the same page) and that one _is_ only $8.

> -----Original Message-----
> Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 1:10 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [Leica] my camera bag cost eight dollars
>
> kyle cassidy jotted down the following:
>
> > what's with all this bickering about bags? i found one new for
> eight bucks
> > in about five minutes in the most obvious place. no
problem. practically
> > built for the leica M....
> >
> > http://www.asc.upenn.edu/usr/cassidy/pix/equipment/bags/
> >
>
> Yep.  Mine was $12: A black map-case bought at the Army-Navy
> store.  A wide,
> padded strap was another $8, for a grand whopping total of $20.  With a
> little ingenuity, you can squeeze two M-bodies with mounted lenses, six
> rolls of film, a light meter and a few odds and ends in there.  And it
> *sure* doens't look like any camera bag.
> I found a link that is as close as I could find on the Internet:
>
>    http://www.imsplus.com/ims5c.html
>
> Second bag in the list (map case shoulder bag).
>
> M.
>
> --
> Martin Howard       

From Leica Mailing List;
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000
From: "Joe Codispoti" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Leica] Re: Expensive Bags

At last a revealing, sensible, and accurate opinion of camera bags. I agree on all points. If the camera must cost thousands, the bag need only be functional, protective, and not an ego symbol. My vote goes to Tamrac.

Joseph Codispoti

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Cooper" [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2000 9:47 AM
Subject: [Leica] Re: Expensive Bags

> I find this talk of bags a bit amusing.  The Billingham in particular is
> hilariously overpriced, and seems to offer nothing over a no-name bag I
> could buy on 14th St. for a few bucks.  It also looks moderatly expensive
> (if not particularly beautiful); if I were a thief, I'd be tempted.
>
> The Domke too strikes me as a joke.  I shot with one in Kyoto, and
> not only does it offer very little protection -- supposedly a feature, not
> a bug -- but it has way to much metal on it for my liking:  just the thing
> to scratch a lens in the field.  And you can find stuff like this in army
> surplus stores for a *song*.  Just buy a Tenba insert (twenty bucks, and
> unlike the Domke, capable of modification) and you're off and running.
>
> I use Tenba bags mostly -- at least they're well-made -- but I'm starting
> to think they look too expensive with the leather trim.  My favorite at
> the moment is a Tamrac fitted backpack:  I can carry all my equipment, and
> barely feel it.  (And it's about a third the price of a Billingham.)
>
> Feeling the flames already,
>
>
> Douglas Cooper

From Leica Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2000
From: "rlb" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Leica] Re: Expensive Bags

No flames from here Douglas.

The only person that I know that owns more bags than I do is Mark Rabiner. He's a bag nut too. The difference is that he loves everyone of his bags and I like bits and pieces of each one of mine but none completely. The Billingham stays at the back of the closet because I never use it. It's beautiful to look at but for me very difficult to use. Too many flaps and I despise the zippered cover that you must go through to get to your equipment. Need more than one hand to go through it...at least for me. I also don't care for the leather catches that are either too snug or too loose. I bought my first Tenba several weeks ago and it's very well made. I should have bought the next larger size. One of my favorites is the Domke Leather F2. It is extremely well made and isn't as floppy as the canvas Domke. I don't care for the metal hooks. The strap on it is the best strap that I have ever used.

I must agree with you about Tamrac. They seem to better much stronger and of better material than Lowepro's. I have two different size Tamrac backpacks and find I use them both more than anything else. If I could only get them onto my back without breaking my arms I would have it made!!

Bob Bedwell

...

From ROllei Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000
From: Javier [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] A bag?

My problem has always been one of comfort.

Photographically all I ever need is one 35 body and at most 3 lenses as well as film. I hate carrying a bag though, even if it's small, and usually wind up with the lenses in my pocket. A few days ago I found for about 13 dollars, a belt bag with 3 compartments, the first and third can fit lenses and the middle one holds the film. I have never felt more comfortable. The third lens is on the camera which in turn sits crossed on my neck on the side.

Unless I get more into this, this will be my choice for a long time.

See Ya

Javier

From Leica (Topica) Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000
From: Ted Grant [email protected]
Subject: WAS: Black chrome. now protecting your lens

Gary Klein wrote:

> A case in point, is the alarming rate at which I went
> through 72 L37c filters when I had my 180mm f2.8
> Nikkor while in College.

Hi Gary and others:

I don't know if this has been covered as a suggestion when carrying any camera with a lens of 135 length or longer. When hanging the camera on your shoulder the lens "should be turned into your body" It's far more protective to the lens as it's tucked behind your body while walking along without any fear of banging it on anything.

When I work with three R cameras, as they always have longer glass they are tucked behind the left and right sides of my body off the shoulder. When two cameras hang on the one shoulder the straps are adjusted so they hang one above the other with the lens tucked behind, rather than sticking out wards where they can be damaged by bumping into things or some dumb moron isn't looking where he's going and bangs into the lens.

Although there have been times when shooting a federal election gathering or other big crowd event, it can be very handy having a 180 sticking outwards as it allows you a sort of rib digger if the crowds become some what of a pressing mob! ;-) I don't have any doubt I left a beautiful blue circle exactly the size of a 180 2.8 with "Leica" emblazoned on one jerks 4th & 5th rib area!

And while they're clutching their side and gasping for breathe you say, "Oops, sorry!" And inwardly smile knowing you've taught the guy a lesson about bulldozing his way through the crowd, pushing little old folks.

Sorry guys it's the other ted Grant when that happens, the mean assed twin! ;-)

Just remember, "lens in" can save all kinds of possible damage if hung outwards.

ted

Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format,rec.photo.equipment.medium-format,rec.photo.equ ipment.misc
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: $1.99 hard shell backpack? I found one! (not an ad)

This sounds really silly, but it may be just what you need to haul around a Speed Graphic or other gear. There is a chain of distressed merchandise stores called "Only Deals" that are found in malls. They pretty much stock the same stuff from some centralized source.

They have a LOT of "Star Wars Episode One" junk that did not sell. One item is a full sized semi-hard shell brown backpack made of some kind of waterproof material. It's $1.99!!

It has a clamshell design and is lined with some kind of soft material. There are velcro flaps so that stuff dopesn't fall out the sides when you unzip it.

The back straps extend so that even a 6'2" guy like me can use it. While there are no compartments inside, it still is good for carrying items in their own pouch cases, etc.

Even for storing items with some degree of protection, these are a steal at under two bucks. BTW, there is an outer removeable container that hold s a number of CDs!

Hope this helps.

John

Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format,rec.photo.equipment.medium-format,rec.photo.equ ipment.misc
Date: Mon, 01 May 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: hard shell backpack? I found one! (not an ad)

...

Actually, the back "pod" is all brown fake leather with the only logo embossed on the outer pocket--the one that hold the CD wallet. This is stitched on and can be removed with a razor blade...just cut the threads. Then you have an "adult" piece of gear, only slightly futuristic!

John

[Ed. note: a handy way to stack lenses rear to rear to make more compact in your bag...]
From Leica Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000
From: Kip Babington [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Leica] Making a back to back lens coupler

I agree that the Leica device leaves a lot to be desired in terms of rear element protection when one of the lenses is removed.

I did just what you're thinking of doing, with two N**** caps about 25 years ago, and they're still tight as can be. I cleaned 'em good with soap & water to get any finger oil off, and then probably wiped them off with an alcohol swab, before ladling in a healthy dose of epoxy, holding them together with fingertip pressure for a few minutes, and letting them sit overnight.

I have also done the same thing just this past week with a pair of plastic rear caps for LTM - I have a Russian Jupiter 35mm and one of the Voigtlander 25mm Skopars, both of which are fairly short lenses that have deep rear elements. I got two deep rear caps (for the Jupiter) and glued them together, and now I can stack a pair of wide angles for my IIIf in a single hole in my camera bag, and they aren't any longer combined than my 90mm Elmar with its FIKUS hood attached.

I suspect that epoxy would make an unbreakable bond between two of the new M rear caps if they were properly cleaned. Another alternative might be to use plastic solvent type model cement, available in a small bottle with applicator brush at any hobby shop (at least in the US). It flows by capillary action between tightly fitting surfaces (like the rims of two rear lens caps being held together) and essentially dissolves the two into each other. Most of these cements are pretty quick acting, and set enough in about 30 seconds to release pressure and not have the parts move, although overnight cure is often recommended for full strength.

Let us know which way you go and how it turns out.

Cheers,
Kip

Dennis Painter wrote:

> I want to glue two of the latest rear lens caps together to make a back
> to back lens coupler. The grey thing leica sells should be closed and
> deeper for 21mm lens, etc.
>
> I figure if I just glue them tother they will separate, at a most
> inopportune time. Anyone do this and know what works?
>
> It does look like that ridge should be sanded down to improve the
> contact surface area.
>
> TIA,
> Dennis

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: film and heat

[email protected] writes:

>> Tom Miller wrote:
 >
 > Could someone tell me what kind of effects heat would have on fuji 220 film
 > 800 iso left in a car during the heat of a summer day in texas for 5 hours.
 > tom
 

A dark car in direct sunlight can get incredibly hot, way over a hundred degrees.

At minimum you'll get bad color cross over and the lubrication in any equipment you've got in there will dry out. You are baking your stuff.

My film and cameras go where I go, live where I live, breathe the same air i breath.

Mark William Rabiner

I agree a car (dark or light) gets very hot and it's generally bad for film. I disagree that there will be a color crossover problem for the original poster, because ISO 800 Fuji is negative film and even moderate color shift could be handled in printing. I also disagree that a hot car will dry out camera lubricants. Lubricants get thinner as they heat up but you'd need to get them up to 400F or so to start to break them down enough to dry them out.

I also disagree with the idea that your film must go wherever you go. That's fine for a few rolls but I often carry several hundred rolls at a time to travel destinations, and carrying it all on my person all day isn't very practical. For car travel, an ice chest is a better solution. In the US and Canada you can usually find the styrofoam type cheaply and easily, so there's no need to drag a heavy one with you on the airplane, and ice is readily available on the road. I have a soft, fold-up ice chest that I take overseas. As for camera equipment, leaving it in the car is, if nothing else, a security risk. I put my backup gear under the trunk mat, in the wheel opening around the spare tire. Most thieves don't want to spend a lot of time poking around, they'll just grab what's in plain sight.

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000
From: "Cousineau , Bernard" [email protected]
Subject: RE: film and heat

> Could someone tell me what kind of effects heat would have on
> fuji 220 film
> 800 iso left in a car during the heat of a summer day in
> texas for 5 hours.
> tom

There is an article on this topic in the current issue of "Chasseur d'image" magazine (French). They found that most films are not very sensitive to heat when they are unexposed, but that they sometimes will show some deterioration if heated after exposure.

This may be due to the fact that you have to open the foil (or film can) to expose the film, which subjects it to humidity.

Either way, the suggestion to get a cooler is a valid one, and quite cheap.

Bernard

[Ed. note: Maybe all you really need is a good strap?..]
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Good travel bag

[email protected] writes:

I use a Billingham 445 for my 'blad gear on a daily basis, and a Lowepro mini trekker back pack for travel, or if I know I'm going to be doing a lot of walking. The Lowepro back packs are particularly comfortable even with heavy gear for me, and I'm a small female of only 5' 3", so *any* sized guy should have no probs!

Two problems with photo backpacks:

1. (Fact) You have to take them off each time to get at what's inside.

2. (My wife's opinion) "They look ridiculous on a dignified middle-aged man dressed conservatively in the big city."

I don't envy anyone carrying a 445 Billingham full of Hasselblad gear. I have a Billingham 225, it's awfully heavy for its size (probably because its so well made). I've replaced the straps on all my shoulder bags with the Op-Tech SOS straps (they have a "mini" now also). They honestly live up to their claim of reducing apparent weight by 50%. No more sore, raw shoulders.

Best invention ever, I think.

[Ed. note: some theft proofing ideas...]
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Good travel bag

[email protected] writes:

I will look at the Domke and the other suggestion of using an ordinary bag with cell foam inserts put into it (perhaps the diaper bag idea also).

Simon

Domke bags are great (I suppose) for press pros working fast and furiously (and from what I've seen, beating the heck out of their gear) but in my opinion they're the worst possible bag for travel. Their padding is minimal and except for the F5XB Belt and Shoulder Bag (which is *perfect* for a Leica M kit) they do not have zip closure tops, just flaps secured by straps with clips.

It would be a simple matter for a pickpocket to slip his/her hand into the bag and remove contents while you're carrying it. One of the *greatest* travel bags ever is/was the Galen Rowell Modular Waist Pack which has a waistbelt worthy of an expedition backpack and a quick-adjust shoulder strap which, when worn cross-style and cinched up, it doesn't bounce like other fannypacks. Loosen the strap and swing the bag around for use, swing it to your back and pull the strap tight to walk. Just that simple, just that good. The bad news: they've been discontinued by Photoflex (I bought a spare one to stash away!). The good news: Rowell has evidently bought the remainder and is selling them through his website.

http://www.mountainlight.com/new.html

From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000
From: Michael Levy [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] Re: Carrying rolleis

Forgot to mention that I like to carry my TLRs over my arm and the lenses facing my body (side or front) unless it is a hot, sweaty day, when I carry it lenses away from mny body, probably around my neck or in my hand.

I don't think I ever used an ever-ready case on any camera, preferring to carry them in a camera bag when not out and ready. But then I am not preserving them for posterity or collector value, either.

mike

Date: 29 Oct 2000
From: Struan Gray [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Camera Bags/Backpacks for Medium Format Contax 645?

Lukasz Salwinski, [email protected] writes:

> anyone has seen something like a padded
> stuff sack i can stuff with a mamiya rb
> and then stuff into a 'normal' pack?

None of the RB owners seem to have picked this up so I'll offer some ideas. My Kowa fits nicely in a case designed for a large 35 mm SLR, which lets me swap between having it round my neck, on a rucksack waistbelt, or nicely padded and inside my main pack. This is very flexible and allows me to adapt to the weather and the difficulty of the terrain.

The RB is too big and/or the wrong shape for any of the 35 mm cases I've seen. Alternatives would be a mini-cooler designed for a six-pack, an army surplus gas mask case, or any of the myriad of pouches and padded bags sold in hunting and outdoor stores. Bob Monaghan has lots of other alternative camera bag suggestions on his site - basically, avoid the stuff that says 'photo' on it :-):

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/index.html

If you want guaranteed quality construction and materials, Ortleib (www.ortlieb.com) make very nice waterproof panniers to go on the handlebars of touring bikes which detach and can be used as a shoulder bag, and for which stiffening and camera padding inserts are available.

If you just want to protect your RB while it is in your rucksack you can easily make your own case. I use plastic containers lined with closed-cell foam for all the lenses, backs and accessories which I don't have to have immediately available.

The containers are just normal kitchenware (Ikea make nice ones for Hasselblad backs, as you would expect :-) and I make lens cases out of cut down soda bottles. Quality 3mm or 8mm closed-cell foam is available from camping stores as sleeping mats and tent underlay. I prefer these to stuff-sacks because the plastic gives a degree of crush resistance and protects from sharp objects and abrasion.

Struan

Date: Thu Dec 07 2000
rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: eromney [email protected]
[1] Re: Camera Bags

I generally use army gas mask packs or old Samsonite hard cases. If you want to make sure it doesn't get stolen, label an aluminum case ... "Sanilac Rectal Perfusion Colostomy Kit" ... or use a diaper bag.......Ed

...

From Rangefinder Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000
From: "Jukka Vatanen" [email protected]
Subject: Vs: [RF List] Kiev, Voigtlander questions

Hi Matthew.

I am using little bags or envelopes taped together from = packaging bubble plastic (Transparent bubble sheet) I can readily see what=B4s inside, also cost practically = nothing, as I keep on forgetting them on location shoot. If I am packaging Hasselblad lenses in them I can = make "Double wall" bags. When going abroad a jet, I usually tape the lenses together, cassettes = together & so on before putting in a camera bag that i take inside = cabin. Also the Customs jerks can see what=B4s inside.

Rgds Jukka

Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000
From: [email protected] (Edward Agnew)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.misc,rec.photo.equipment.misc,rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Travelling Long Distance Alone- Please give advice!

...

I travel with at least that much gear, including your long flight to the Asia and back. I have found a photo backpack (Lowepro Protreker is great) works very well. Their latest crop of bags do not show much of a name on them, and what there is can be covered with a national flag. Therefore they look just like any other backpack, ie.. poor student traveler etc.

It can be locked (zipper locked) and other than the largest photopacks, they meet the size limit for carry on. Generally there should be room for film, jacket, shirt etc. in the pack

What I like best is that when moving to and from the plane, around the airport, and just getting there, the backpack becomes part of me. Freeing my hands, shoulders etc for carrying the other bags, dealing with tickets etc, and not having to set the bag down. The Lowepro bags are based on designs from their Lowe trekking division, and as such have top end harness to allow you to carry up to about 50 lbs (20+kg) and not die.

As to adding increased security, I carry a "pacsafe" (www.pac-save.com) This is a steel wire mesh skin which fits over the backpack (and other sizes for normal camera bags), with a cable and lock to attach it to chairs, support posts, seats of buses etc. While it not proof against theft, it makes impossible to grab the bag and run,

hope this helps

Edward Agnew
Campbellville ON

From Minolta Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: OT: Alternative to the expensive camera bag collection (long)

Hi

Would appreciate any thoughts or comments on a solution I am developing to the perenial camera bag problem which simply stated is:

1) No matter how much effort you put in to finding that "right" bag it soon isnt big enough any more if you need all your goodies at once,

2) Isnt quite right for hiking long distances, alternatively is only good for hiking, but awkward around town etc.

3) Custom designed bags are very expensive and scream "I'm carrying very expensive stuff" to predators in dodgy areas. etc.

The end result of all this is that one tends to feel the need for a collection of bags for different uses which can result in a lot of money being spent on non "core" (ie good lenses and film) photographic equipment, especially if you're into Lowepro or equivalent stuff.

My solution which is still in the testing phase is to separate the carrying function (ie the bag) from the protection and ordering function (ie the protective container and padding etc). I achieved this by using a collection of watertight, easy access "tupperware like" containers which I have lined with protective foam (I used the plastic foam you get to sleep on when you're hiking, its very light, seems to absorb a lot of impact, doesnt absorb water and isnt "powdery" like mattress foam). For added protection I got some silica gell, wrapped it in coffee filter paper and threw one in each container.

"So what" is a possible response to my carrying breakthrough:) Well now I can pack my stuff in to a number of specific containers according to their usage patterns, which I can then throw into a cheap, bag or rucksack as I need to. If I need all my stuff I use a big bag and throw all the containers in, if I only need one lens a flash and the body, my basic container goes in a smaller bag.

The benefits are:

You can use any cheap bag to carry your stuff while protection is 100% from the weather or knocks (I tested mine by submerging it fully in my pool - not brave enough to put my cameras in yet but they were completely dry inside, Big plus in my case as I'm very capable of falling into a river while hiking, as well as the constant threat of being caught in the open by a thunderstorm etc)

Less of an obvious target to snatchers and muggers.

A LOT cheaper, you can buy a workable shoulder bag or rucsack and a few watertight containers, and some foam for about half the price of the equivalent camera bag.

Your precious equipment is always stored in the optimum environment.

Negative issues are:

Speed of access may not be as high as the camera bag, ie you need to take the lid off the the container as well as open the bag, although you could leave it off most of the time and only put it on when the weather turns bad.

A bit more bulky than a well designed camera bag (depends on the match between container dimensions and your equipment) I was quite lucky.

Any thoughts? Place your orders now:)

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001
From: Anthony Ferraro [email protected]
Subject: Re: travel with Hasselblads

For about the price of a 80 cfi lens I got a Fuji GW6X7 III rangefinder that I use when travelling. The EBC lens is spectacular, is fairly lightweight although a tad bulky. I take this with me when photography is not on the agenda, but still want a camera handy for when opportunities present themselves. When photo specific travelling, I take the 501C with a 150 and 50, 2 backs, meter, and a Viv 283 all packed nicely into a soft sided cooler bag from Target. The hope being that when people see the bag, they think it's my lunch not my gear. As for the tripod, when I think I need it, I have a sling that I can attach that goes over my shoulder. No way to conceal it. Although I liked the tennis bag idea, but when walking around downtown frisco or LA I'd prefer to be able to just have one bag

...

From: "Al Denelsbeck" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.technique.nature
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001
Subject: Re: Backpack, shoulder bag, photo vest?

Hi Nils,

Regarding belt packs, I presently carry virtually everything in belt packs. I use a Tamrac MAS Belt and an earlier version of the 517 holster style bag, which holds an Elan IIe and battery pack/grip snugly. I also have two lens cases from Tamrac, a carry-all from Denali which holds a 75-300 lens, extension tubes, teleconverter, manuals, collapsible lens hoods, and numerous odds & ends, and some cheapo two-pocket pack to hold about 18 rolls of film, with 'fresh' and 'exposed' compartments. I modified this pack to have a snap, so I can remove it without unstringing it along the belt. On my back rides the tripod, on two straps so it hangs straight down, very balanced.

The Tamrac bags seems to suffer from single-stitching, not a good choice for something that should be pretty rugged, and I would recommend going the LowePro direction. My 517 has a thick piece of sponge rubber I placed in the bottom because I have no lens that long (that I'll leave on the camera), and in this I cut notches for spare batteries. Plus the front pocket holds a full-size flash, and a disposable rain poncho, just fine.

I regularly wear this hiking for miles, and will occasionally add a shoulder-strapped lens case for a 170-500 zoom lens, and a fishing vest for other stuff. The short cut of the fishing vest doesn't interfere with the belt packs like any 'photo' vest would, plus it was eighty-some-odd dollars cheaper with more pockets. Unfortunately, I haven't found anybody that makes a long lens case with a 'snap-on' strap for the belt - instead, they all have to be strung along the belt, which doesn't work for me since the long lens case goes towards the back, and I'd have to unstring at least two other bags first. Since the long lens is only occasional use, this is more of a hassle than I like.

The worst part, provided your load is balanced, is sweat and the discomfort of the belt, which will creep after a few hours. I helped this considerably by adding a set of hunter's suspenders ($7 at Wal-Mart), much better now. Also, always wear comfortable, well-fitting pants. The plus side is everything is ready at hand, anytime, and switching lenses is a breeze. I have both hands free for whatever, can bend over, set up shots and change lenses knee-deep in water (try that with a photo backpack), climb trees, etc.

Sitting down depends on how much you have on the belt. A lens case front and back limits me a bit, I can't sit back on a bus, for instance, but sitting on benches/rocks isn't a problem. And one heavy-duty snap for the belt makes it easy to remove. The Denali case and the 517 both have handles, so by closing the belt I can hand-carry the whole setup one-handed where needed.

Goofy looking? Maybe, nobody's ever said and I couldn't care to ask. I'm not in it for the looks, I'd rather get the job done (maybe I'd care if I myself looked better? :-) ). Since I'm usually treated as a professional when I have it all on, I guess it's not too bad.

Hope this helps, but drop me a line if you have any other questions.

- Al.

...

[Ed.note: thanks to Henry Posner for sharing these tips on underwater housings and waterproof bags...]
From Nikon Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001
From: Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video [email protected]
Subject: [NIKON] Re: Water housing?

you wrote:

>     Does anyone have any suggestions on some sort of housing that would keep
>the camera and lens dry while shooting in the rain?

OpTech WeatherGuard -- http://www.optechusa.com/general.htm#weatergaurd Ewa Marine housing -- http://www.rtsphoto.com/html/ewamar.html

BTW http://www.ortliebusa.com/ has padded water proof camera bags.

- --
regards,
Henry Posner
Director of Sales and Training
B&H Photo-Video, and Pro-Audio Inc.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001
From: Thomas Haller [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: camera bag alternatives

Hello !

I would like to contribute 2 points to the "camera bag alternatives":

When buying a bag for camera use, avoid products with leather trimming. Bags without leather trimming can easily be laundered (temperature on cold, no spinning), so it's no problem to keep the bag clean enough for the camera stuff.

A nice bag for the small equipment is the Eagle Creek Excursion Bag. It is big enough for a SLR and two (small) lenses and it has a front compartment under a flap and an additional waist belt. The downside is that it isn't really watertight (zipper on top).

Thomas

From Medium Format Mailing List;
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: backpack for a 6x7

Michael, I've been using cutup high density foam sleeping bag pads commonly avail. at the mega mart type stores for ~$6-$7 roll. I cut it into the shapes I think I want, see if everything fits, then either use insulation grade contact adhesive or sticky backed velcro for the dividers and such. If one wanted a better finished look, it'd be fairly easy to buy cloth or nylon and glue that onto the surfaces of the foam, but I don't even bother with that. One thing that I like about this system is that in addition to having a custom fit, it enables me to completely remove the whole system when I want the pack or satchel to revert to it's original use. Admittedly, my system is tacky and looks homemade. It wouldn't do for a pro trying to impress, but it hauls gear to the places I need it hauled to and is inexpensive. Lowepro and Domke stuff is really good, but for the cost of one of their limited use packs, I've got a satchel, rucksack, fanny pack and full sized backpack all outfitted the way that I wanted. I still sometimes use a Lowepro Nova 5 with shoulder straps, but it's nowhere near as comfortable as a converted Jansport or Dana Designs backpack. The alpine type packs that put the center of mass right in the small of one's back tend to do better for me than some of the dedicated photo packs that have the center of gravity almost between the shoulder blades.

One last thing, if you ever want a hard-side waterproof case for canoeing etc, check out what can be done by modifying a small cooler, before laying out mega-bucks. Additionally, the cooler doesn't scream "steal-me" the way a fancy Halliburton case does.

Mike Swaim

From Medium Format Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [medium-format] backpack for a 6x7

Jean-Luc,

The best thing to do is to take all the gear you want to pack to the store to see if it all fits, and fits in the manner that you want it to fit. Personally, I'm a big fan of converting regular packs to photo and optics usage. I find that very few of the photo dedicated packs have the nice little extras that make the pack ride well on my torso, such as a wide foam filled belt, sternum cinchers, and load lifters. I find that rather than buying somebody else's idea of a compartmentalized photo pack for way too much money, it works for me to simply make my own inserts and padding for regular alpine day packs. That way I get to customize the size of the compartments for some of my older and odder shaped photo and spotting scope gear.

Mike Swaim

From Medium Format Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: [medium-format] Re: backpack for a 6x7

Michael, I've been using cutup high density foam sleeping bag pads commonly avail. at the mega mart type stores for ~$6-$7 roll. I cut it into the shapes I think I want, see if everything fits, then either use insulation grade contact adhesive or sticky backed velcro for the dividers and such. If one wanted a better finished look, it'd be fairly easy to buy cloth or nylon and glue that onto the surfaces of the foam, but I don't even bother with that. One thing that I like about this system is that in addition to having a custom fit, it enables me to completely remove the whole system when I want the pack or satchel to revert to it's original use. Admittedly, my system is tacky and looks homemade. It wouldn't do for a pro trying to impress, but it hauls gear to the places I need it hauled to and is inexpensive. Lowepro and Domke stuff is really good, but for the cost of one of their limited use packs, I've got a satchel, rucksack, fanny pack and full sized backpack all outfitted the way that I wanted. I still sometimes use a Lowepro Nova 5 with shoulder straps, but it's nowhere near as comfortable as a converted Jansport or Dana Designs backpack. The alpine type packs that put the center of mass right in the small of one's back tend to do better for me than some of the dedicated photo packs that have the center of gravity almost between the shoulder blades.

One last thing, if you ever want a hard-side waterproof case for canoeing etc, check out what can be done by modifying a small cooler, before laying out mega-bucks. Additionally, the cooler doesn't scream "steal-me" the way a fancy Halliburton case does.

Mike Swaim

From Leica Topica Mailing List;
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001
From: Jim Brick [email protected]
Subject: Re: Heavy Duty Travel Case Recommendations Needed

Go here:

http://www.jensentools2.com/dept.asp?lang=eng&parent_id=55750&parent_name=Shipping+Cases&dept_id=55745

These cases are industrial strength and commonly used for electronic equipment. I have several of these, different sizes, some with wheels and handles, some without. They will do the job. They are far tougher than any savage baggage handler. Call Jensen and ask for a catalog or peruse their web site. Use a Dymo (or other) label maker and label your case:

PATHOLOGY LABORATORY SPECIMENS

My cases so far have logged over 400,000 air miles without incident.

That said, I carry most of my photo equipment on board in a Porter case.

http://www.portercase.com/photoplus.htm

Which has proven to be a godsend as it folds out, turning into a dolly on which you can carry the rest of your luggage. The Porter case is not meant to be sent as checked luggage. It is carry on luggage. I have the Photoplus case and replaced the dividers with foam with cutouts for my cameras. Since this case is on wheels and will also carry the rest of your luggage via its dolly feature, its weight (other than lifting it into the overhead) seems moot. You can, with ease, carry your MF and 35mm cameras and keep them with you.

Jim

[Ed. note: coolers are, er, cooler ;-) ]
From Contax Mailing List;
Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] Fuji Provia 100 film

When I shoot in the American deserts, which are probably similar in temperature to where you are, I keep my film in a styrofoam cooler in the car and put in one or two of those gel packs you freeze. Hotels are usually willing to refreeze them for me overnight.

In normal temperatures I just don't worry anymore.

Bob

From Leica Mailing List;
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001
From: Mark Rabiner [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Leica] Re: Medium format camera for a Leica user?

Roland Smith wrote:

> The Rolleiflex 2.8F that I have is the same dimensions as a Hasselblad  with
> 80mm lens and a film back.  I made the comparison with a Rollei on its  back
> along side a Hasselblad.   The reason I tested it is that I had a prior
> opinion that the Rollei was bigger and I was considering taking a  Hasselblad
> on a trip.
>
> Roland Smith

Roland both will fit snugly and perfectly into the same Lowe-Pro Nova Micro 4x6x6" bag.

Mark Rabiner
http://www.rabiner.cncoffice.com/

From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001
From: Michael Levy [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Waterproof Rollei Case

> My purpose in using a waterproof container is being missed here. The  intent
> is to protect the camera from hard knocks and water when it is being  carried
> in a backpack, with the minimum weight as I'll be carrying the case
> constantly, not to provide protection with the camera on a neckstrap. A
> camera in an everready case around one's neck becomes tiresome quickly  on a
> long hike.
>
> I imagine that the rather large metal Rollei case would look a bit silly
> hanging on one's neck as well.
>
> Ed Balko

You are absolutely right! the Tupperware is as good a solution as any. I have a neat fanny pack (waist pack) that is padded (not the new Osprey but a an "outpack" made by a subsidary of Domke that easily holds the tupperware and all your film and filters etc. It would be easier to get to without dismantling yr backpack each time -- or maybe you could pack the camera gear in an accessory pack that strapped or clipped to the backpack.

By all means don't spend another $150 for an "Official Rollei Tchatschke" when simple solutions to the issue are at hand. Indeed you can proba\bly save money by buying the new plastic containerts fro Ziploc-- instead of the pricey Tupperware designs.

Sign ed
El Cheapskate

[ED. note : Mr. Levy is the author of a noted photogear book!...]
From ROllei Mailing List;
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001
From: Michael Levy [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Suitable backpack for Rollei?

You want a serious answer? Look at the Loewe camera backpacks -- a lot of my friends (who photograph wildlife for a living) like them.

I do not carry that much gear but I like "lumbar" packs and have found that if you get a good pack, whose load-carrying features suit, you can you it for your camera needs. For example, rather than buy a pricey Billingham bag I use a nice canvas and leather "shell bag" (used by shooters and game keepers). I cut a rubber mouse pad in half to line the bottom and use a 3-section padded insert made by Domke. Result? a nice bag for a RF, three lenses and some film.

I don't know what sort of trekking/backpacking g places there are in Britain, but one might also find a pack frame with a light plastic gear box (used in the US for serious canoe camping) then buy some foam or expanded styrene and carve a customized camera carrier.

I just bought a neat lumbar pack (yes bum and fanny DO have other meanings!) that actually feels comfortable and snug against my back and will carry 15-20 pounds without crippling me. It is padded all round and all I need do is find or make some sort of internal sectioning -- again I'll likely by the inserts from Domke or pirate them from other camera bags I own -- so I can carry my Rollei TLR and accessories when I hike. I will use a trekking pole which has a tripod screw so serves as a monopod.

Short answer: seek a hikers supply store, come armed with weights and measurements, then "roll your own"

Mike levy

From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001
From: Earthmother [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] Waterproof Rollei Case

I plan to carry a Rollicord V with me during backpacking and canoe camping this summer. I've been looking for some sort of container to hold the camera in the pack to provide some mechanical protection from all the other stuff in the pack, and importantly, to keep the camera dry when the rain comes and we're an afternoon's walk to shelter.

An ammunition box would have worked but they're pretty heavy. I found that the Rubbermaid 6 cup rectangular container is a perfect fit for the Rolleicord, lightweight too as it's polyethylene. The camera slides in comfortably and doesn't have room to rattle around, either fore and after or up and down. The top locks into place but I'll probably use a section of inner tube as a large rubber band to ensure the top stays in place.

Ed Balko
Middletown, NJ

From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: 9 Jul 2001
From: Mike Bischof [email protected]
Subject: Re: [[Rollei] Pad for TLR neck strap]

This might be heresy, but I'm just using a standard OP/TECH "rubber" strap on mine (an MX-EVS). I don't carry it around long-term (like hiking), though, in case those metal bars aren't really made for holding the weight, but for short distances (between car and tripod) it is great. I use the same type of strap on my other cameras as well (took a Contaflex into the Grand Canyon the other weekend), and it makes a huge difference...

Mike

From Leica Mailing List;
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001
From: "Skip Williams" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Leica] Back Pain & Bags

The best all-day, carry-around solution that I've come across is a belt system such as the Lowe Orion or my favorite: the Kinesis system at www.kinesisgear.com. The system is remarkably flexible and comfortable. I've saved my back on all-day walk-abouts now. They offer wide belts with/without suspenders and lots of bag and pouch options. Try it, you will hever go back to a bag for an extended walk.

Highly recommended

Skip

Date: 23 Jul 2001
From: Ilja Friedel [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Which back pack for mf?

Eam 77 ck [email protected] wrote:

> filters, film, meters, etc.  Does anyone own or has used a backpack with  the
> about the same amount of mf equipment that they are really happy with.   If so,
> can you let me know and why.

Many reviews of backpacking bags can be found at

http://www.outdoorreview.com

The experience shared there is about hiking - not cameras. But when you make your final decission you will find their feedback helpful. Very good pack makers include Dana Design, Gregory and Arc Teryx. But you might want to make camera specific compromises. If you are very concerned about rain, check www.vaude.com They offer completely waterproof bags.

Ilja.

Date: Wed, 30 May 2001
From: John & Lee-Anne Harris [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: need a backpack

You may want to consider building your own. I found a nice pack with wheels (along with another huge bag as part of the set) for $60 at B.J.'s Wholesale club (similar to Sam's). My wife went to Joann Fabrics and bought enough 2" thick foam to layer the whole pack 4 layers deep. We cut the camera and film back shapes out with a filet knife. If you have room in your freezer, it helps to freeze the foam first. I ended up with a great camera pack with a side pocket large enough for my tripod, and additional suitcase for $90 after buying the foam. I managed to justify the purchase of a film back and a good light meter from what I saved.

I also did something similar with a regular carry-on suitcase for trips where I won't be hiking.

The only major criterial issue for the pack would be that the opening zips away on three sides to allow access to the whole area of your bag.

I shoot an RB67, so I nearly had a stroke when I saw the prices for a ready made pack.

" db1 " wrote:

> i have a hassy 500 c/m with an 80 and soon will have a 150. i am looking  for
> a backpack that can carry both plus a light meter and some film. any  ideas?
> i was thinking the lowepro mini trekker.
>
> ..david

Date: 5 May 2001
From: Benjamin Librande [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: waterproof bags

Check out some kiyak bags. 100% waterproof and they float (unless you put too much camera gear in them)! Not sure what sizes and functionality you'll find but you'll be able to carry at least a camera, lens and flash.

Karl Magnacca wrote:

> Does anyone have experience with waterproof camera bags?  I'm
> especially wondering about the Ortlieb ones they have at B&H.  I work
> in very rainy places where I often end up with puddles in my backpack,
> so if I can get one that's waterproof it would be a big help.  The
> salesman at my local camera store claims there's no such thing, which
> I strongly suspect is baloney, but I'm wondering if the Ortlieb bags
> are truly waterproof.
>
> Karl

From: "Michael K. Davis" [email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Awesome raincoat for your camera!
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002

Need a raincoat for your camera that you can whip out in a sudden
downpour?

Saran Quick Covers - These are elasticized, disposable shower-cap-like
critters that are very lightweight.  (My wife bought a box of them for
their intended purpose - covering pie tins and caserole dishes, but I
grabbed a couple for my camera bag.)  Me like!

Mike Davis


From: "Bernie Kubiak" [email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Awesome raincoat for your camera!
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 

The gallon size ziplock bags perform the same function.  Unzip and shoot!

"Michael K. Davis" [email protected]> wrote 
> Need a raincoat for your camera that you can whip out in a sudden
> downpour?
>
> Saran Quick Covers - These are elasticized, disposable shower-cap-like
> critters that are very lightweight.  (My wife bought a box of them for
> their intended purpose - covering pie tins and caserole dishes, but I
> grabbed a couple for my camera bag.)  Me like!
>
> Mike Davis




From: "Chapman, John W" [email protected]>
To: "'[email protected]'" [email protected]>
Subject: Camera Bag
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 


I have tried virtually everything including Porter Case, backpacks, vests,
regular bags, etc.  For me the best all round bag is the rolling backpack,
while still using a photo vest.  After buying and trying some half dozen
different ones, the best one I found was at Costco for under $40, and which
came with a removable small day backpack.  While it is a tad oversize, it
basically meets airline carryon size restrictions.  I pull it most of the
time, but when I need to (stairs, off road, etc.)I simply turn it into a
backpack.  For anyone trying this, make sure the rolling backpack has
in-line skate wheels (will always roll better and easier) and has extra
support straps to reinforce the zippers.  While I could have customized the
case, I choose to put all my lenses and bodies in polar cloth bags which I
sewed myself at about $1 each.  The cloth is very soft and thick and really
pads the equipment.


From Minolta Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 
From: [email protected]
Subject: lense protection

Since the main compartment of my camera bag is without cross
partitions I have been trying out different ways to protect the
lenses that I carry from bumping into the other lenses, and I would
like to share with you a very effective and economical way to give
the needed protection.

At my local Wal-Mart in the sporting goods section they sell several
types of sleeves covers that side over a drink cans to keep them
cool, but I found one type of sleeve cover for $.97 and what is
unique about this one type of sleeve is that they are made out of
very flexible and soft 3/16th inch thick foam covered with a non-
linting nylon material and all of this is bonded and sewn together.
These sleeves are about 4 inches tall and the inner diameter of the
opening is about 2 3/8 inches which is perfect for the Minolta fixed
focal length lenses (28mm,50mm etc), also they come in black, red,
and green to allow for quick identification as you grab for the
lenses.

I found that you can easily side the lenses in and out of these
sleeves by holding on to the rear lense cap.

Regards,

Gary



From Minolta Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 
From: "Smitty.." [email protected]
Subject: Re: lense protection

I also use old socks and bubble wrap. Takes up less room.  Oh..and did I
mention cheap?

Smitty..


Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002
From: "Sherman Dunnam" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: First impressions of MF / 501CM

...

Mike,
I am with you on disguising the contents of your camera bags.  I made my
current camera bags.  My LF bag is actually a backpack I picked up at a
discount department store and my MF bag is a sort of nylon overnight/general
purpose bag from the same store.  I then got some of that blue foam stuff
sold as a camper's sleeping pad and cut it to make the bottom and
compartments and hot-glued it together.  It works great, my stuff is
protected and the bags don't look "photographic".

Sherman
http://www.dunnam.net/photography



[Ed. note:  Australian photo instructor and photo book author (e.g., Bronica Classic
Camera guide..) Tony Hilton passed on a tip for storing cameras. He noted he used
fish trays from the fish market, as they interlock when stacked. I have used the $5
stacking clear plastic sided 32 quart capacity storage bins from Target stores. These
are designed to fit under the bed and take minimal space. You can tape over the air 
holes in the recessed carrying handles and put in anti-fungal air drying crystals. 
Cat litter box drying crystals are big and cheap at $6-8 USD per kilogram box. ]


From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 
From: Vegvary [email protected]
Subject: RE: [HUG] Re: Backpacks and Cameras


> My interest is in the very compact and lightweight ... At *most* I
> would want to carry a 500CM + WL+ two backs + 80 + 150 + meter + film
+
> lenshoods and such. And of course a tripod. My current thought is a
> Domke Spider 11. It looks like it would have just enough room to do
it.
> But I'm still thinking about it...

Uh, Godfrey? This sounds like the polar opposite to "compact and
lightweight!" ;-)

I realize that you all are discussing options for going out and about
with - but here's a system I use for weddings and environmentals:

http://www.kinesisgear.com/index.html

I really swear by belts - plus then I get to pretend I'm like a
guerrilla shooter...guess it's the military brat in me all growed up.

I switch lenses constantly on a shoot - I think albums look better that
way. What do they say about "variety?" So, I like to have a bevy of
lenses on my person. Plus I carry the bride's shot list with me as well
as a 3x5 card with a scribbled family tree on it - groom on one side,
bride on the other.

Best,
Elizabeth




From: "William E. Graham" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: How do you store your gear?
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 


[email protected] wrote 
> What other storage solutions are out there?

Well, I'll tell you the best method I've found for storing junk, and I'm
a junk collector from way back...

Go to costco or wal-mart, or home depot and buy about 50 plastic bins
with the blue or red overlapping hinged tops...They are translucent
white plastic, with opaque tops that are about 2 feet long by 1-1/2 feet
deep by 16 or 18 inches high, and they cost about $7 each. Also buy some
gorrilla racks that are 48" wide and have 5 shelves and are about 18"
deep they are about $50 each, but each rack will hold 15 of the plastic
bins when assembled correctly. (you have to assemble them) Also stop at
a stationery store and get a bunch of large white sticky tabs...3" x 4"
are a good size. You are going to put everything you own, camera related
or not in these plastic bins, and number each bin on one end with a 3 x
4 inch sticky tab and a black marking pen. You will have to inventory
each item as you put it in the bin, and it doesn't make any difference
what's in each bin...

That is to say, you can mix items in the bins,
because your inventory will enable you to retrieve them later....

I have binoculars, boxing gloves, a trumpet, some rags, all in bin #23 for
instance. When you are done, put everything on an exel spreadsheet in
your computer, where it can be sorted by item description, but will
carry it's bin number along with it in the sort. If I want to take my
binoculars to the beach, for example, I get on my computer, bring up
"inventory" in my excel program, go to the B's, find binoculars, and it
tells me to go to bin #23. I go to the gorrilla rack that has bin 23 in
it, pull out that bin, put it on a table, open it up and sure enough,
there are my binoculars. When I get home from the beach, I put them back
in bin 23 and close it up and put it back on the rack, and I never have
to look for anything anymore, because my computer tells me where
everything is, as long as I remember to put everything back in its
proper bin......

I am 67 years old, and the above method has been a lifesaver for
me.....Good luck......



From: "Tony Parkinson" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: How do you store your gear?
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002

...
Keep my main kit in the camera bag (Lowe Pro Nature Trekker AW), keep
the extra lenses & flashguns in a 2nd camera bag (Heritage Explorer
60), keep the bags in the wardrobe in the spare bedroom with the
beanbags, hides, batteries,battery charger and other boondongles on
the shelf of the wardrobe. Film goes in the Fridge/Freezer



From: Lisa Horton [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: How do you store your gear?
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002


Plastic drawers, I'm big into plastic drawers:)  The "close-at-hand"
storage is the primary kit in the camera bag, then some slightly
larger than shoebox size plastic drawers for the other commonly used
items.  A drawer for lenses, a drawer for bodies, a drawer for
accessories, and another drawer for accessories, and another drawer
for... well, you get the idea;)  Big lenses go in dedicated bags.  For
less-used storage, I use plastic shelving units in the storeroom, some
with even more drawers (bigger and smaller).  There's a shelf for bags
(pretty empty these days), a shelf for boxes of prints, a shelf for
frames and albums.  There's a small 3-drawer unit for filters, flash
accessories, and junk.  On another shelf, another larger 2-drawer unit
holds tripods heads & accessories, and one drawer holds my camera
collectibles when they're not on display.  Out in the garage, the
lighting equipment lives in Halliburton cases, again on plastic
shelving units.

Keep in mind this is AFTER I thinned out the equipment collection:)

Lisa

[email protected] wrote:
>
> Since I'd assume the average person in this group has multiple bodies,
> multiple lenses, multiple filters, shutter releases, camera bags,
> tripods, winders plus a Point & Shoot or two, I was wondering how you
> keep it all straight.
>
> Keeping things in bins or lying on shelves hasn't really worked for me
> and I'm the sort that doesn't take it well when I can't find that
> ridiculously overpriced bubble level for the second time this week.  My
> wife may have come up with the solution.
>
> Recently, we replaced a couple of smaller toolboxes with this big, red
> rolling thing from Sears.  It's a project table on top, with 5 drawers
> of increasing depth down the front.  Similar to the sort you see at your
> local auto repair shop.  She lined all the drawers with rubber shelf
> liner so the screwdrivers don't roll about and everything has its
> place.  Now she's suggesting this would be just the thing to secure my
> gear.
>
> While I'm hesitant to have a second giant red chest in a small
> apartment,  she may have a point...For $129 I'll have a chest that can
> hold filters and other easy to lose items in the upper drawers, all the
> way down to bodies in the bottom.  And it's lockable for when we go on
> vacation.  Just load up whatever bag I'm taking and go.
>
> What other storage solutions are out there?




From: "Tourtelot" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: pack table revisited
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002


Am I wrong or is this a little pricey for something that you can get at
Target at much less cost?  Or am I missing something?

On a similar note, I just bought a little Sears tool box called a GTO (?).
It is about the size of a Rubbermaid Step-stool/tool box but all toolbox and
no legs.  Plenty stable to stand on and "three floors" of storage as my
seven-year-old likes to say.  I put a piece of 2" foam in the bottom with
three circular cut-outs that hold three 4x4 lens boards with lenses and
cable releases mounted.   Will easily hold two 6x6 boards/lenses.  Top for
notebooks, loupe, clips etc.  Next down will hold a slew of Cokin "P"
filters, rings, etc.  Very secure and, if I do say so myself, very slick.

Regards,

D.

"Cathy" [email protected] wrote
> John Camp wrote:
>
> > In the past few months there have been a number of posts about lightweight
> > pack tables that can be used to hold equipment off the dirt while making a
> > photo. Yesterday I was in a "Dick Blick" art supply store and saw there an
> > aluminum-and-canvas folding chair made for field painters. It's sturdy but
> > very light, sits about a foot off the ground, has a canvas back, a small bag
> > beneath the seat for painting gear or odds-and-end, and a carrying strap.
> > Cost (at the store) was $51.95. It would easily hold my LowePro, and, of
> > course, if you hung your pack off a tree and were simply waiting with cable
> > release in hand for the world to get right...you could sit on it. I think
> > Dick Blick has a website, but I haven't looked.
> >
> > JC
> I order specialty papers, brushes, paints, INK, portfolios from Dick
> Blick.  Wonderful people. Quality merchandise.
>
> Dick Blick website is :  http://www.dickblick.com


From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Photo Vests
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002


You are starting to talk about a lot of weight. Maybe add some water,
a snack, a coat/sweater, maybe some rain gear. Now u better consider
something that will take all that weight and yet remain comfortable
the whole trip. U could consider military pack type vests that are
made to carry extra weight. They are certainly not as fancy, but they
are not as expensive either. Try ur local surplus store. I cant see a
vest type rig being any better than a good photo backpack. U may think
it is easier to get in to a vest. My backpack when i need in to it, i
just take off on shoulder strap and the whole thing will swing around
and each pocket is avialable. I used to use a fly fishing vest, but
will not go back to that after using a proper photo backpack.

Ken

Tom Keller [email protected] wrote:

>Hi,
>Anybody out there who uses a photo vest instead of a backpack? If so,
>where did you shop? I want to carry two or three lenses (28-70, 75-300,
>90 macro), extension tubes, 4 filters, flash, remote release cable while
>on day hikes up to 10-12 miles. Thanks for your tips.
>tom


From: "Al Denelsbeck" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Photo Vests
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002


Tom Keller [email protected] wrote
> Hi,
> Anybody out there who uses a photo vest instead of a backpack? If so,
> where did you shop? I want to carry two or three lenses (28-70, 75-300,
> 90 macro), extension tubes, 4 filters, flash, remote release cable while
> on day hikes up to 10-12 miles. Thanks for your tips.
> tom
>

    I second (or third or whatever) the vote towards beltpacks. I've been
using one for years, going through several layouts as my gear and goals
changed.

    I was a cheapo and bought a fishing vest for carrying the sundries,
mostly on deep woods hikes (has things like a firestarter, rain poncho, and
emergency blanket in it). Couldn't see spending $100+ on a freaking vest,
and the shorter cut of the fishing vests didn't interfere with the
beltpacks. But, they're hot! Not an option for a hot day at all, so I'd
insist on mesh, as light as possible, however you can do it.

    I added a pair of hunter's suspenders to my beltpack ($4 I think, at
Wal-Mart, did I mention being a cheap bastard?). I can chose to wear them or
not, they sit out of the way around back when not in use. Helps support more
of the weight on longer days, and allows you to actually open the belt and
just let it hang from the suspenders for a while if the sweat is getting to
be too much on the ol' beltline. Find a method to attach things, and you can
carry more on the suspender straps, such as a lightmeter, water bottle, etc.

    Really important, either method you choose: weight distribution. Keep it
balanced, it makes a huge difference. I carry my camera in a 'zoom holster'
on one hip, the main gadget bag on the other, then space the lens pouches
and film bag around the remainder. The tripod goes on my back on *two*
straps, both shoulders like a backpack, hanging straight down, and seems
almost weightless this way.

 Hope this helps. Good luck!

        - Al.
New online photo gallery at www.wading-in.net



From: "Al Denelsbeck" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Photo Vests
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 

 By the way, just got back from bicycling to the top of a six-story
causeway bridge to photograph the space shuttle launch (best view from where
I am, about thirty miles out). Carried a Elan IIe body with battery pack,
75-300 lens, 28-105 lens, 170-500 lens, the usualy gang of film, batteries,
teleconverter, extension tubes (okay, I doubted I'd need them, but they ride
along in the bags), and a Bogen 3401 tripod. All belt packs, all on the
bicycle, with very little restriction of movement. For anyone that cares...
:-)

    I just wish I was in better shape, and didn't have to sit on top of the
bridge panting for ten minutes. Granted, it's 85� and sunny out, but
still...

    - Al.
New online photo gallery at www.wading-in.net


From: [email protected] (Jack Floyd)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Photo Vests
Date: 8 Oct 2002

Before you spend $80-150 for a "photo" vest, go to a Wal-Mart, KMart,
discount sporting goods store and check out the $15-35 fishing/hunting
vests

Same quality, maybe more/more convenient pockets
I got one for $19 that uses  "double" front panels as pockets, with a
tough velcro closure, tons of interior pockets, and a big back pocket

Jack


rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: David Strip [email protected]
Re: Aluminum, plastic, padded...? 
Date: Mon Oct 21 2002

also look at SealTight pistol cases by Doskocil. Try cases4less.com
90+% of what you get with a Pelican at 50% of the price.

--
David Strip                           Eastman Kodak Company
[email protected]  


From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 
From: fritz olenberger [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HUG] Hasselblad Hard Case

How about a Pelican case? (www.pelican.com) Many camera stores (at least in
the US) stock them.  They are very rugged, quite light, waterproof, and come
in many sizes.  I have a small one that holds my camera with 80mm lens and
back, plus a 50mm and 180mm lens.
-Fritz



From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Medium Format camera bags?
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002

David J. Littleboy [email protected] wrote:

> there's a backpack that would allow pulling over to one side and taking out
> the camera safely with the bag still over one shoulder...

I've got 3 "camera bags" I use regularly but only the Lowepro
Mini-Roller was actually a camera bag when it was made. :-)

One of my favorites for travel is an ugly canvas gym bag I bought
for $3 at a "thrift store" (used junque).  I put a light plywood
floor in it, and arranged the inside with cut-out foam. It holds
plenty for a shooting vacation; I typically travel with 2 35mm
bodies and 4-5 lenses plus a 500c/m and two lenses, along with
filters and film and batteries and Immodium and Swiss army knife
and such.

My feeling is that the gym bag looks like it probably holds a
bunch of gym clothes and towels--and not very nice ones at that.
Until someone actually sees me pull a camera from it, it probably
isn't a very attractive target for thieves.  That's my guess,
anyway, and so far nothing has been stolen from it.

Just MHO, FWIW.  Oh, one other possible benefit--my wife HATES
the ugly gym/camera bag.  She hates it so much she "talked me
into" buying the Lowe mini-roller for a trip last spring.  "Gee,
dear, I hate to go spend money on camera stuff, but if you
INSIST ..."   ;-)  I still use the gym bag often.  Maybe I'll
get a better store-boughten bag before our next trip.  ;->

 Ken Kuzenski   AC4RD 


From: "Sherman" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Still Looking for a carrying Bag
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003

"Allan W. Bart, Jr." [email protected] wrote ...
> Hello,
>
> I wonder what you folks are using to lug these big cameras and lens? I am
> using a Pentacon 6.
>
> Allan

Allan,
I carry my MF gear (Kiev 88cm) in a backpack made by Promaster.  Most of my
shooting is done in the field and I often hike between 4 and 8 miles with my
camera, lenses and tripod.  I have found this backpack to be pretty
comfortable for a very heavy kit.

I normally carry- 

  * Kiev 88cm body and 2 backs
  * Waist level finder and spot metering prism finder
  * 50mm, 80mm, 150mm, 250mm
  *1.4x converter, 20mm and 40mm extension tubes, lens hoods
  * Sekonic spotmeter
  * Assorted accessories like cable release, notebook and pencil, lens
cleaning tissues, plastic "rain covers", assorted filters
  * Bogen 3021 tripod with 3030 head
  * 1 liter water bottle and sometimes lunch and a second water bottle

oh yeah, I also carry some film!  All up it weighs over 40 pounds (actually
more than my 4x5 field kit with 3 lenses).  The pack has a customizable
interior with padded dividers positionable by velcro-like fasteners.

I like it well enough that I am considering one to replace the home-made
pack I use for my 4x5 gear.  I don't know the model number as it isn't
written on the pack anywhere but I think it was a "Large".  Cost was about 
$150 US.

HTH,
Sherman
http://www.dunnamphoto.com


From: "ajacobs2" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Still Looking for a carrying Bag
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003

Get a gym bag, make some foam inserts, near the zipper hang  a few dirty
socks outside the bag......no one will steal it.....

--
(B>)#   I wish you well,
Al Jacobson
Website:    www.aljacobs.com 


From: "Jim Blazik" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Any Advice on Camera Bags?
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 

Stoisha-- I've got a few of the "name brand" camera bags and they get used,
but the best and cheapest of any that I own are a couple that started life
as a military surplus something-r-'nuther bags that have since been modified
for whatever purpose I wanna use them. One measures about 11" (w) x 6" (d)
x 10" (h), and this has been stiffened with heavy matt board and padded with
thin foam inside. Cotton fabric covering was sewn inside and a couple bits
of velcro were strategicly placed in there, too, and a couple dividers can
be put in or left out as need be. I've carried half a dozen 5" x 7" film
holders, some filters, and a couple large format lenses in this el cheapo
setup in this thing, and this past weekend I took it along with me into the
world with a Kiev, a Zorki 6 and a Zorki 1, complete with various lenses for
each of the two mounts. And I still had room to jam a couple sandwiches in
there too. It ain't elegant, but in the 20+ years I've had this thing, it's
taken some nasty lickings and still keeps on ticking whereas some
"expensive" bags are now really ratty and have inoperating (or just plain
shot) zippers and what not. . Got another smaller one that's maybe 5" x 5"
x 8" and its just right for a small kit of a single body and a couple
lenses. I doubt my total investment between these two home-mades is more
than $10. And nobody is likely to look at either one of them and say, "aha!
an expensive camera to steal! So, shoot on down to your local military
surplus store and see what you can fine. -- Jim


Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: How do you carry your 4 X 5 equipment
From: bob jwx1.deleteThis@bellsouthnet
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003

"Robert T. Mitchell" [email protected] wrote
> My first question is: how to most of you carry your 4 X 5 camera and
> equipment when out in the field? What type of case or backpack do you

For a car trip I put everthing into a plastic (hard shell) cooler, and then
I carry the camera, mounted on tripod with a small shoulder bag for film,
meter, etc.

For a hike, I have a cheap backpack that I got 20 years ago as a Boy Scout.
I wrap the camera in the dark cloth and put it, along with everything else,
in the backpack. It doesn't open up the way those clever padded camera
backpacks open, but it works.

Bob


From: "Joseph Meehan" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: How to carry equipment
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 

There are only three choices I can think of.

Backpack:
* Handles lots of equipment
* a good one will handle the weight much better than a poorly designed one
* I would look to Lowe first
* Consider water tight or at least inner bags that are water tight if needed

Photo vest
* Handles moderate amount of equipment.
* Easy to get to
* Is comfortable as long as you don't overdo the total weight of the
equipment

Thin
* Thin means reduce the amount of equipment.
* Often taking just what you need and not everything can result in better
results.
* You will spend more time and effort finding and recording the images and
less time with the equipment.
* You will be more comfortable so less likely to not bother going here or
there where that best opportunity may be
* You may well enjoy your trip more.
* Personally I have found from lots of experience, I do at least as well
with less equipment and I enjoy myself many much more traveling light. It
took a couple of trips with just about everything to discover what I really
needed and used to be able to reduce the total down to what was really
needed.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

"Yi-Zen Chu; Yiren Qu" [email protected] wrote 
> I may be planning to go to some national park to hike and take some
> pictures. I am wondering what people do to carry lots of gear over an
> extended period of time. I'm guessing I'll have my tripod, 2 bodies, 7-8
> prime lenses, filters, misc stuff, and water.
>
> Looking for suggestions, especially people who have experience with such
> situations.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Yi-Zen


From: [email protected] (Vinnie)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: How to carry equipment
Date: 3 May 2003 

"Yi-Zen Chu; Yiren Qu" [email protected] wrote 
> I may be planning to go to some national park to hike and take some
> pictures. I am wondering what people do to carry lots of gear over an
> extended period of time. I'm guessing I'll have my tripod, 2 bodies, 7-8
> prime lenses, filters, misc stuff, and water.

It depends on:
1. What you define as extended period of time
2. The altitude and distance you plan to hike each day
3. Whether you will be carrying food and cold-weather gear (tent,
sleeping bag, etc)

I like to go on multi-day, high-altitude hikes. The last trip I took
was 11 days in the Himalayas (3000-5000m/10k-17k), and I took the
following:
- 1 body
- 2 lenses (28-105 and 75-300)
- Polarizer and film
- Tripod (Bogen 3021)

My total pack was at about 23kg/50lb and humping it around was the
definition of living hell.

For my next trip, it will still be 1 body. I have sold the 75-300 and
will replace it with a 70-200/4L (the 100-400L is too heavy to take,
period). Maybe a 100/2.8 macro or a close-up lens for orchids and
flowers, and a 1.4x TC. The big change will be taking a carbon fiber
tripod with a light Bogen ballhead.

If you are doing primes, take 4 - 24, 50, 100 and 135. Anything else
is overkill.

At lower altitudes, I carry the body and the 28-105 in a camera vest.
At higher altitudes, everything gets stuffed inside my backpack. If
I need to take some photos, I stop and take it out.

YMMV.



From: [email protected] [[email protected]] 
Sent: Tue 8/12/2003
To: [email protected] 
Subject: [HUG] Re: hasselblad V1 #2032


[email protected] writes:

 Any suggestions for a low profile way of carrying a body with lens and
waistlevel attached, an extra back, and various goodies? 

If you want it to be unobtrusive, shop around for a zipper lunch box with a
shoulder strap.



From: "McLeod" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Cokin P filter
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 

The nicest filter case I use is a portable CD case. It has a nice nylon
outer cover and inside are plastic sleeves with some sort of soft material
on the back. Keeps the filters in good condition. Of course, when the
optical quality is important you may want a better brand of filter. I use
cokins for soft focus and diffusion effects. They are great when you want
degraded sharpness!


"Jeff Worsnop" [email protected] wrote
> I've kept my grey grad P size Cokin filter in the hard plastic case it was
> supplied in. Took it out yesterday to find that the hard case had bent a bit
> and caused abrasion marks on the filter. I guess this was when the filter(
> in its case) has been in my rucksack and been subject to gentle movement as
> I wallked.
> Can anyone advise a good way to keep Cokin filters from being damaged when
> they are carried in a rucksack or camera bag ? I have in mind that maybe
> soft plastic CD covers could be OK but will the soft plastic cause abrasion
> when the filter is put in and taken out of the cover? Any ideas gratefully
> received please.
> I felt especially fed up yesterday when I found the abrasions because I had
> walked for @2.5 hours uphill on the hottest day of the year and really
> needed the filter for the shot I had in mind!
> Jeff



From: Mark Rabiner [[email protected]] 
Sent: Sun 9/7/2003  
To: [email protected] 
Subject: Re: [HUG] FULL MARS - a hassy loose bits bag


David Richards wrote: 
> 
> somewhere that might be worth a look is www.aluminiumcases.com they will 
> build a hand made aluminium case to your exact requirements. I have 3 and I 
> rate them very highly. the portfolios always get the wow facture too. 
> David Richards 

IN with the lenses, backs and bodies and meters no better tool for better 
photography than your own photography. 
PLENTY of Geeks out there with lots of gear and no (i was going to say 
guts) grapefruits. 
Either pro or just darn serious a portfolio handy is the best thing we 
can do. I think if as a tool to DO my work not just sell it. It's a 
lens. It's a body. 
No book: no lens no body.. in motion. 

Mark Rabiner 
Portland, Oregon USA 
http://www.rabinergroup.com 


From: [email protected] (Alan Hogg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Backpacking and Medium Format
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 

"Matt Williams" [email protected] wrote:
> After looking into the cost and size of many camera backpacks and seeing
> nothing that I like or willing to part with a small fortune to buy. I have
> decided that I will just alter my current Kelty with a little more padding.
> I have several smaller padded camera bags that I have been putting my
> individual cameras (Mamiya 645, Nikon N80, Yashica D, Agfa Folding camera)
> and then putting them in the Kelty along with my regular hiking accessories.
> I would like to get some foam rubber to pad the bottom and the sides of the
> Kelty pack to add some more protection than I have now. I have gone to some
> hobby and craft stores and one camera store and they did not have any foam
> rubber. I just want to know where is the best place to get ahold of some
> foam rubber ? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks, Matt

Hi Matt,

I carry a Mamiya 7 and 3 lenses in a home made foam box, which sits nicely
inside either my daypack or large pack if I am walking for longer periods.
There is plenty of extra room for raincoat, food, water etc.

As someone else has said, the foam pads that hikers use are great. If you
want something a bit thicker, ask your local outdoor shop where they get
the foam from. I use 10mm thick foam. You can make an almost permanent
joint by using double-side tape. The adhesive chemically bonds with the
foam and it is impossible to pull it apart without tearing the foam. By
making a home made box, you can customise it to suit your own equipment.
You can also get velcro that has a sticky back - it is also ideal for use
with the foam. And best of all, it is incredibly light.

Good luck,

Alan Hogg


From: Stacey [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Backpacking and Medium Format
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 

Matt Williams wrote:
> I just want to know where is the best place to
> get ahold of some foam rubber ?

Most foam is too squishy as someone else said and is heavy as well. Maybe
something as simple as some bubble wrap around each camera? If it can save
a camera from the hands of USP drivers..
--
Stacey






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