Bronica Classic Camera Notes and Net-Wisdom
| Subject: BRONICA QUALITY |
|---|
I'm a classic Bronica user (S2) and I'm just really happy with it. It's
an extremely straightforward and simple to operate camera, so I only had
one question at all. The 135/3.5 Nikkor that I use for portraits is
wonderful. It's a little soft, just slightly, I often use it without
diffusion or soft focus. It makes beautiful photographs.
As was previously mentioned, the prices are cheap, the lenses are indeed
"startlingly" cheap, and there are a reasonable number of accessories
available used. Plus they look kind of retro cool :)
This is a 30 year old camera that I'm pumping roll after roll through,
with no problems so far.
Lisa Horton Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
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From: [email protected] (Redmond Young)
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 17:29:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Bronica S2
I am buying my first MF camera for professional use (I already have a
Ikonta and a Rolleicord). I have seen one advertisement for a Bronica S2,
with 50mm,75mm, 135mm and 200mm lenses (zenzanon, I think); 2 backs 6x6
and prismatic viewfinder, the whole package costing US$ 2,000.00.
I need some information about the advantages and disadvantages of this
camera and of its usage. Also I would like to know if this price is
compatible with the market prices, since I live in Brazil and this kind
of equipment is so rare here. Finally, I will need to take a lot of macro
photos and, for this, I would like to know about the availability of
accessories (tubes, close-up filters and so on) for this model.
As most people will tell you, the S2 is not as rugged as the later model
Bronica with focal plane shutters. They are the S2A, and then the EC and
ECTL. The winding gears are made of brass, which wore down under heavy
pro use. The S2A (c. 1969) used stainless steel gears instead, and is
considered a much sturdier camera than the S2. However, these cameras
seem complicated in the way they flip the mirror DOWN.
The EC (c.1972) uses a split mirror where most of it flips up. while a
smaller portion flips down. (this is all done to attach wide angle
lenses). It's battery dependent and has an electronic shutter. The ECTL
(c. 1976) has a TTL meter with LED read-out and Aperture Priority Auto
Exposure. The E's use the same back, which cannot be used on the S
bodies. But all the lenses, Nikkors, Zenzanons and Komuras fit all the
bodies (except the 105 leaf shutter, which fits the EC but not the ECTL).
The E models look a bit more modern that the tank-like S models. I
believe there are extension tubes available for the camera. Most the
lenses take 58mm, so you'll be able to find close-up filters.
If I were to choose one of these models for close-up work, I would pick
the ECTL. With a TTL meter, you don't have to figure out bellows factor
when using extension tubes for macro. The EC is OK too, since there's a
accessory TTL metering chimney finder available for around $150.
Your S2 outfit for $2000US seems high. A S2 kit (back, 75mm, WLF) can be
had for $400 USA. Each additional lens, say $250 each. 1 extra back maybe
$200, Prism $150 all equals about $1500.
For these kinds of prices, I'd get a used Pentax 6x7 with mirror lock-up,
a TTL prism finder, a std. lens with inner ext tubes or the 135mm Macro
lens, all should be under $2000.
Red
From: Roger Suppona [email protected]
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 1995 10:13:58
Subject: Re: Buying a Bronica S2 =20
QUERY:
I am buying my first MF camera for professional use (I already have a
Ikonta and a Rolleicord). I have seen one advertisement for a Bronica S2,
with 50mm,75mm, 135mm and 200mm lenses (zenzanon, I think); 2 backs 6x6
and prismatic viewfinder, the whole package costing US$ 2,000.00.
I need some information about the advantages and disadvantages of this
camera and of its usage. Also I would like to know if this price is
compatible with the market prices, since I live in Brazil and this kind
of equipment is so rare here. Finally, I will need to take a lot of macro
photos and, for this, I would like to know about the availability of
accessories (tubes, close-up filters and so on) for this model.
ANSWER:
Early Bronicas (Deluxe, S, S2, S2A, EC, & EC-TL) are mechanical
nightmares. The film advance is particularly weak--do not run thick films
like Tmax through one or you'll tear up the gears. Repair parts are very
scarce and few repair shops have the expertise to do a good job with one.
KOH's in New York advertises they repair early Bronicas. There's an ad in
the January Shutterbug (under the national repair listings) for another
place that says they fix Bronicas. I'm at work, my Shutterbug is at home,
I'm afraid I don't know the name of that repair place.
OTOH, the Nikkor lenses for those Bronicas are very nice.
Roger
[email protected]
Tmax is thinner in new version:
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: camera gears vs. thick Tmax film problems?? thin film problems?
Are thick films like Tmax a problem with medium format cameras? Are thin
films like Ilford HP4 a problem with medium format cameras? I duly
reported two posts (see below) in http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronnotes.html
and bronfaq.html which suggest that thick and thin films can be problems.
Personally, I don't use either film, so I can't resolve the problem. A
person interested in getting in medium format (using Bronica S2a) considers
these issues to be a serious problem to be resolved before buying...
Can anyone provide instances of thick films like Tmax tearing up medium
format cameras (Bronicas, Kowas, or others?) Is the "well-documented"
problem with thin films suggested by David below a common and known
problem?
thanks for sharing your info/knowledge/experience with these films!
regards - bob monaghan
------------
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998
From: Bruce McLaughlin [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: camera gears vs. thick Tmax film problems?? thin film problems?
When TMAX first came out I believe I did have an occasional problem with
my Hasselblad. But unless I'm mistaken, Kodak altered the base support
thickness (made it thinner) and the current version of the films cause
no problems for me. I've also used FP4 with never a problem.
I seem to recall that one of the stated reasons why Rollei eliminated
the film feeler rollers in the GX model was because it was felt the
thickness of the newer films might cause a problem with the start of
film sensing. That may be but I use many of the modern films in my old
2.8F camera with the film sensing rollers and have never had a problem
so . . .
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: film thickness (Tmax) Re: Bronica S2
Date: 22 Jul 1998 16:44:12 GMT
The original TMX-120 was on an Estar base and unless you had a camera with
weak gearing (some Mamiya 645's, possibly S2's, etc) it was a FAR better
product than the current version. It lays FLAT in both camera and
enlarger! But there was soms sort of stink that even made it into the
press, Mamiya pointing fingers at Kodak and Kodak pointing fingers back
and saying that the film met all ISO specs for 120 film.
I do not think the film was much thicker, as I saw no trouble with framing
in my MAT124G, my IkoflexIIa, or my Linhof Rollex backs. But the film
base was considerably stiffer, and that may cause improper framing.
Personally, I wissh the original was back! The stiffer Estar base was a
joy when compared to the current Acetate base. It's a pity when the
film is probably fine, but the cameras have soft brass or plastic gearing,
or undersized gear tooth areas.
Anyway, that's what happened, and I believe a perusal of Kodak Tech Briefs
from around 1987 or so would produce some real data to support my
recollections.
Regards,
Ed Lukacs
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001
From: Richard Knoppow [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] TMax 100
you wrote:
>you wrote:
>>The T-Max film base is considerably thicker than Tri-X or Plus-X and, I
>>think, that's why they can't make it in 220.
>>
>>
>4.5 mil vs: 3.5 mil for other roll films. I wonder if this would really
>increase the roll diameter enough to preclude spooling it. There is no spec
>for total thickness of either film. Since T-Max has a thinner emulsion I
>wonder how much difference there is in total thickness. I think maybe I
>will toss this to Thom Bell at Kodak.
>----
>Richard Knoppow
I just got a very interesting reply from Thom Bell pretty much confirming
Robert Meier's post. I will quote it:
From: Thom Bell
Richard,
The thicker base is THE reason why T-Max films are not offered in a 220
size. Since the base is thicker, the rolls will be too fat to spool a
longer load on the reel.
TMX 4.7 mil
PXP 3.6 mil
T-Max films are on a thicker base support since the silver grains are flat
(tabular) instead of round (like older technology films). Flatter grains
are more prone to stress fractures that will cause fogging to occur as the
film is transported across the film back rollers while advancing through
your camera.
Thom
Now, this also suggests the answer to the problem with Ilford Delta 3200
is fogging from bending stress. Interesting to say the least.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
[email protected]
From: [email protected] (EZela57383)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A and Tmax, anyone know for sure
Date: 31 Dec 1998
There is no reason to fear....T-Max is being produced with significantly
less thickness. The soft brass film advance gearing in the older S series
cameras would definately suffer from the effects of thicker gauge film
(i.e. old T-Max) over time. I caught the end of those runs and experienced
some difficulty when advancing the film.
From: Jeffrey Frey [email protected]
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 12:45:11
Subject: Re: Bronica S2
I have had an S2 for nigh onto 25 years and although I haven't used it
VERY much, I find it an easy camera to use and haven't had any mechanical
problems with it. Some people do say that the S2 has had such problems,
and advise buying an S2a. The S2 was supposed to be a mechanical
improvement on the S, so perhaps has most of the original bugs out of it.
The S, S2, and S2a are fairly complicated cameras, with a bifurcated
rapid- return mirror, and might be expected to be a little more fragile
than, say, a Hasselblad with BTL shutter. The price being asked, $2K, may
reflect more collection than use value; S2s by themselves and appropriate
lenses don't tend to go for that much, but the prism finder is not so
often seen.
I would suggest you check out the prices of good used Hasselblads and
lenses before you commit to an S2, but if you do get the S2, try to get a
6 month or so warranty and try it out seriously.
Jeff
From: [email protected] (Robert Hudyma)
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:35:29
Subject: re:Bronica S2A Focusing Problems
My daughter is in photography college, and for Xmas we gave her a Bronica
S2A medium format camera which had only a few rolls of film put through
it. The camera has been checked by Two camera shops, who say the optics
are perfect and in pristine operating condition.
The problem being each photograph she takes, when enlarged is just that
little amount out of focus.
RESPONSE:
The S2A is a fine camera, with top quality optics. Your problem may not
be focusing. The S2A has an instant return mirror and in taking a picture
there is an incredible slam-bang followed by another slam-bang. As
cameras go, there is a lot more vibration in the S2A than in many other
medium format cameras.
This vibration can be the source the image unsharpness that you see. I
got around this by selecting shutter speeds 1/125th or faster and/or, by
using a massive tripod to absorb the mirror-slam-camera-shake.
Try making some images with and without a tripod to see if this is your
problem.
In my experience, I have found that all the Nikon lenses for the S2A to
have accurately calibrated distance scales. You can easily check if the
camera (and/or photographer) is focusing properly by focusing
on an object at infinity (also try the closest focus point) and making an
exposure on a tripod. (Choose a high shutter speed and wide aperture for
this test) Now without using the viewfinder focus using only the distance
scale and repeat the test.
Using a loupe on a light table which of the images are sharp?
If none of the images are sharp then there is a problem with the camera.
Such as: film flatness, alignment, vibration or lens problem.
If the images are sharp when they are focused by the distance scale then
you can assume that the lens is OK, the film is flat and the vibration is
under control. The problem could be with the mirror or focusing screen
alignment.
Also, try focusing the camera yourself and then have your daughter focus
it. Do you both always find the same focus point?
Is a prism finder available, we located a magnifying hood but will this
aid the problem. Any help would be appreciated.
When I started using a medium format camera it took some time getting
used to the dim image and seeing everything flipped right to left. In the
past few years, (I'm in my 40's now) I've noticed that I've
had more difficuties in focusing MF cameras. I got rid of my f5.6 lens,
cranked up the modelling lights and invested in a prism and Beattie
focusing screen.
Let us know your progress.
Robert Hudyma Email: [email protected]
Semi-Tech Corporation, 131 McNabb St., Markham Ontario, CANADA
L3R 5V7
From: [email protected] (David Kilpatrick)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A focusing problems, Fujica 690
The S2a has a well-documented problem with Ilford FP4 and other modern
lightweight base films, which does not occur with colour neg or slide
films which are substantially heavier in weight. Basically, the
mirror action causes slight vacuum which makes the film curve into the
darkchamber (sucks it into a curve). The later EC model solved this by
allow air to circulate! The solution is to use a film like Foma or Tri-X
which has a physically thicker base and emulsion. If the problem is not
caused by this,. suspect a focusing screen position problem.
[Ed. note: Queries on the web have failed to provide further support for
this problem, which doesn't mean it doesn't exist, just I haven't found
more proof. ;-) But here is another viewpoint:]
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998
From: Bruce McLaughlin [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: camera gears vs. thick Tmax film problems?? thin film
problems?
When TMAX first came out I believe I did have an occasional problem with
my Hasselblad. But
unless I'm mistaken, Kodak altered the base support thickness (made it
thinner) and the current
version of the films cause no problems for me. I've also used FP4 with
never a problem.
-----
Eugene A. Pallat ([email protected]) wrote:
I find this puzzling. I used to own an S2A and never had problems with
FP4, which was one of my favorite films with that camera... I'm
not disputing that some people have had problems, but this is the first
I've heard of it. None of the S2A users I've known ever encountered
that problem.
From: Bob Lambert [email protected]
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 16:02:10
Subject: Re: Bronica and Lens Hoods / Filters, Bronica S2A Problems
QUERY:
I am Bronica (GS-1) user and was wondering if anyone has a solution to
using the professional lens hood in terms of filters. I am currently
using the Cokin set of filters but I find it rather messy to slot in the
filters one at a time.
I have enquired with the agents for the Bronica in Oz re the slot in the
hood of the ETRSi which I think is the same as the GS-1. This slot was
intended to take standard Kodak Gelatine filters. I suspect if these are
used you could get multiples into the single slot. Mind you I wonder at
the cost of using these in the field. "Rain drop keep falling on my
.........."
You could consider doing away with the hood and buying the English one
(don't remember the brand) which is similar but takes their own or the
Cokin filters in multiple slots "inside" the hood. Price was
quite cheap relatively. My mate Peter ([email protected]) uses it on
his RL66 and his Nikon 35mm cameras. Maybe a note to him (or he may
respond when he sees this).
Bronica S2A medium format camera...The problem being each photograph
she takes, when enlarged is just that little amount out of focus.
I agree that it could be a user problem but a quick test could be worth
while.
1. Measure the distance from a flat subject with good lines to the film
plane and set this on the focus. Try three or four different aperture
settings. Now look at these negs. Naturally this should be done on a
tripod.
2. If there is no split image screen I would be inclined to go this way
first and see if this helps improve focus.
3. Are you sure it is a focus problem? Could it be vibration, camera
movement, alignment problem with your enlarger (try a pro lab or a
minilab print)?
The AE prism or any prism will make life a lot easier for many types of
photography but there sure is a place for the waist level finder.
Cheers from Oz,
Bob L
From: [email protected] (Russell L Thornton)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 07:33:18 -0500
Subject: Bronica S2A focusing problems
Hi Mark. I am very familiar with the problem your daughter is having. I
have two S2A cameras myself and both of them have suffered from the same
thing. If my experience has any merit the pictures are probably portraits
and or close-ups at wide apertures. When I discovered the problem I tried
to find a repairman who could fix it and each time they said there was no
problem until I exposed a roll of film with them of a little setup I do.
It proved that it was out of focus. Then they said they could not fix it.
The present Bronica importer does not support the camera any more. Too
bad because I like it.
Anyway, I found a repair manual for it fixed both of mine myself. Since
then I have fixed others, too. The problem is basically age. There is
some material in the camera that deteriorates with age but is critical in
maintaining the mirror in alignment during focusing.
I would be happy to fix it for you, but if your daughter needs it for
class I may be able to show you how to compensate for the error until she
is out on break.
If you are interested you can E-mail me at [email protected]
Good luck
Russ
See How to replace
the deteriorating foam on your camera [Ed. note: site dropped as
of 1/2001]
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:25:32
From: Brian Levy
Subject: Re: Bronica model ID.
If by the reference to the bayonet, you mean that it has 2 bayonet
flanges, one of which is used by the 75mm lens, then it sounds like you
have an S2 or S2A if it has a manual shutter and one of the EC series if
it has an electronic shutter. I am not sure, but I think the beginning of
the s/n gives the model #.
If an S2, the gears were a little soft and give some consideration when
you advance it, etc. If a later S2A or, EC, the gears were more rugged.
Bronica in USA no longer services these models, but there are third party
sources in the States - see Shutterbug. These cameras were rugged and
many considered the Nikkor lenses to be among the best of the MF lenses
even today. Accessories for these models seem pretty plentiful and not
expensive since the cameras never achieved collector status.
Hope this helped somewhat.
From: Pieter Wenk
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 07:28:52
Subject: Re: MFD Vol. 7 No. 2 January 15, 1997
QUERY:
Hello Folks! Recently I was given an old Bronica MF SLR which has no
model code stamped anywhere on the body. All that it says on the front is
'Zenza Bronica' with the Zenza in small type over the Bronica. It has a
folding crank cocking/advance knob, shutter speed dial on the left side
with some kind of bayonet on the outer edge. The lens is a Nikkor
Brian Levy, J.D.
Agincourt Ont. - [email protected]
ANSWER:
Out of your message I understand, that you might use a rather older
BRONICA-Model.
Today's BRONICA'S are ALL Leaf-shutter Models. Now, should your BRONICA
be equipped with Curtain inside you are possibly dealing with a model of
approx 20 years of age.
Today, BRONICA is producing their own lenses of excellent quality.
Regards/Pieter
Best regards/Pieter Wenk - Mfg's Representatives/Brokers
E-Mail [email protected] Phone 041/21/921 61 45
Fax 041/21/922 15 81 Vevey/Switzerland
From: [email protected] (Russell L Thornton)
Subject: Bronica S2A
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 13:07:39
There has been a lot of rhetoric about people wanting to get into medium
format and what system to start out in. Most of the comments are on
target and well thought out but I would like to suggest another system
that I have yet to see mentioned specifically for SLR users.
I started out with a Bronica S2A. The main reason I picked this is that
it was suggested by a pro friend of mine. He used to have one and was
very familiar with it. I bit and bought my first camera for around $500.
I have not regretted this move and still have it. There are about 3
manufacturers of the Lenses: Nikkor, Zenzanon (Bronica) and Komura. The
Nikkor 150mm is perhaps the sharpest lens I own, including the
Hasselblads. There is practically every attachment available that you
will probably use and they are relatively inexpensive. I have accumulated
such things as close-up rings, Bellows and polaroid back. Lenses go from
40mm to 600mm.
I really like the feel of the camera when it is in my hands. It does have
one outstanding advantage and that is its housing is constructed of
stainless steel. I am somewhat of a camera technician and have been into
both my Bronica and my Hasselblad and it is amazing the difference in the
mechanics. The Hassy is elegantly simple while the Bronica is almost Rube
Goldberg complicated. Of course it does have the shutter actuation and
timing to contend with but my point is the vast difference in price in
the used market. I work on Cape Canaveral and they have a camera shop
that has to keep the Hasselblads going so the service aspect is not much
of a factor to me. I know many will get cranked up about that comment!
There are two drawbacks, though, that I have found that I should be
honest about. These are just feature problems and not functionality.
I particularly like to be able to lock up my mirror for absolute minimum
vibration on certain shots. The S2A will not do this. The other is a
common problem with medium format focal plane shutter cameras and that is
slow flash sync speeds. The S2A does have a 105mm lens with a
[leaf] shutter in it which is great for portraits and weddings but
for me it restricts me to one focal length.
Other than that I prefer the way the S2A magazine removal works over the
Hasselblad and also the way the Waist level finder operates. Other than
that if you can get sharp enough lenses the difference is slight.
For less than a thousand dollars you could have the same picture taking
capabilities as it would take 3 to 4 thousand in a Hasselblad. I have
heard some say that you will only be respected as a photographer if you
use Hasselblad. That is absurd. Do like I do and search out the bargains.
Russ
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 11:49:50
From: Sturgess, Stuart (SPORT)
Subject: Bronica S2A information
Well I'm a baby to the MF area, having used 35mm most of my life - and
then 'only' as an amateur. I've only recently discovered the mfd [
see Medium Format Digest links above]and have
found the discussions informative, though the technology leaves what I'm
using behind by quite a few generations!
About a year ago I bought an old Bronica in order to explore MF
photography and have added a few pieces along the way.
So far I have a Zenza Bronica 6x6 with 2 film backs - each have a serial
number and the letters S2A printed on them. ('m told this is the Bronica
model description). There is also a Nikkor 2.8 75mm lens, a Zenzanon 4.5
300mm lens, a Komura Telemor95 x2 mount, and a Weston Master 2 light
meter.
I've taken some great shots with the above but haven't been able to find
out much about the camera itself.
Can any tell me if there are any publications on old Bronicas, or the
Bronica series? [A: see Bronica Home Page
for online manuals, brochures, and information]
Is there anything I need to know about the lenses? [A: see Bronica Lenses Home Page for details]
I've noticed quite a difference in exposure with the x2 mount and have to
compensate about 2 stops - why is this? [A: see Bronica Teleconverters - 2 stops is normal for
2x Bronica Komura or Vivitar teleconverter]
What shutter speed does this camera need for the flash to be in sync
(there's no indication on the shutter speed dial)? [A: Bronica S2/A and C manual states 1/40 th
second for X synch]
Basic questions I know, compared to the majority that come through the
digest, but any pointers in the right direction would be appreciated.
(And yes Lee, I've been searching the archives but it takes time to get
through it all. I've copied pretty well all entries regarding the past
debate on light metering -great stuff. You could almost publish a book
with the information you have on various topics!)
Stuart
Macro lenses on bellows mounts
Simon Stevens ([email protected])
Mon, 3 Feb 1997 23:19:02 -0500
The way to think of the way bellows work, to just think of them as
extending the normal helical focusing at the rear of a lens. If you look
at your lens as you focus it from infinity to it's closest focus, you see
that the whole optical system is simply moved further and further from
the film. The close focus limitation is how much thread there is. This is
where bellows come in. Bellows (and extension tubes) extend the distance
between the lens and the film. The degree of magnification is a ratio
between extension and focal length. Longer lenses require more extension
than shorter ones for a given magnification. The perspective effects of
focal lengths is essentially unchanged.
Another effect is that as the lens is moved away from the film, the light
spreads out (try it with the lens and a piece of paper to focus on). The
coverage radius figure given for lenses is given for a lens focused at
infinity, ie when it is at it's closest to the film, and the circle of
coverage is smallest. As you move the lens away it becomes less of a
problem. Basically on bellows any lens will give coverage enough for
limited shifts. The other effect of the light spreading is, of course the
inverse square law. This is why you have to use exposure compensation.
Bellows lenses are specially designed to give their best results with the
subject close to the front element, and a longer than normal distance
behind. Bellows lenses are also usually made without focusing mounts. Of
course the lenses for the Bronica S2, Rollei SL-66 or Mamiya RB/RZ are
made this way anyhow. To my knowledge, Bronica did not make a bellows
lens for the S2/ EC series. Most people would probably use the 75mm with
this camera.
Another alternative is to use a good quality enlarging lens. These are
made using similar assumptions as far as subject and focusing distances
as a true bellows lens, and give very similar results. You will lose
automatic diaphragm, of course.
I hope this helps,
Simon Stevens.
Alexandria, Virginia
[Ed. note: be aware of this issue, see also bronhb.html for homebrew
approaches; note Hasselblad had similar coverage issues with their new
bodies and old lenses...]
From: Philip Quaife
[email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Medium format with lens movements, affordably
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998
My Bronica S2A bellows will swing, tilt and rise. It won't do this to
any great degree with any of the Nikkor lenses I have however as too
much of them protrudes back into the bellows (retrofocus). I made an
attachement for an old 105mm Tominon lens in shutter and that works very
well.
Phil
From: [email protected]
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 17:31:43
Subject: Re: Bronica lenses
All Bronica lenses are not interchangeable. Nikkors only made for models
S, S2, S2a, EC and ECTL. No interchangeability with other manufacturers
or even with other Bronica. Lenses for above models interchange but do
not work with later Bronica. Backs and finders interchange for S, S2, and
S2a, but do not work with EC and later.
Nikkors are excellent and regarded by most as better than Zenzanons, but
I didn't see much difference in the negatives.
From: [email protected] (Russell L Thornton)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 08:09:47
Subject: Bronica lenses
QUESTION:
I have a Zenza Bronica EC with a 75mm Zenzanon lens. I'd like to find a
wide angle, say 40-50mm, and it seems that there are two possibilities:
Zenzanon or Nikkor. What are the pros and cons of each and how should I
specify the Nikkor so that I get the right lens? Do they use some sort of
mounting ring peculiar to Bronica? Also, are all Bronica lenses
interchangeable regardless of body model?
ANSWER:
As far as #1 goes there is a third alternative. Komura makes a 50mm lens
for Bronica. I have S2A cameras which I think take the same lens as the
EC. I have had a Komura and it was soft in the corners. I have not owned
a Zenzanon yet. I have 4 Nikkors, two 75mm and a 150mm. The 150mm is the
sharpest lens I own. The fourth Nikkor is a 50mm. I find it soft overall.
That may or may not help you with your decision. Yes the mount is
particular to Bronica. The lenses are not entirely interchangable.
Good Luck
Russ
From: Bill Theis [email protected]
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 9:52:04 PST
Subject: More Than Just Resolution (35mm vs MF)
I have posed the following argument with regard to the 35mm versus MF
(or even large format)... just thought it time to dust it off again in
light of the discussion:
There is actually something subtle here that has nothing to do with the
degree of enlargement or the resolving power of 35mm versus MF. The
smaller format lenses will always out resolve the one for larger formats,
no argument. View lenses (and in particular the apochromatic ones)
produce a considerably more contrasty image (or in color, better color
saturation) which results in images that just can't be made any other
way. They are bad in terms of resolution. Part of the reason is that all
SLR designs are actually telephoto to accommodate the viewing mirror
[with exception of Bronica S, S2, etc. where the mirror swings *down*
instead of up therefore making retrofocus lenses unnecessary].
This effect accounts for the loyalty to the Leica M series (rangefinder)
cameras which touts these as capable of producing a superior image in
spite of Leica lenses being *VERY POOR* in terms of lines/mm. (See recent
darkroom techniques article about the Leica mystique.) In practical
terms, it is not the sharpness, grain showing up in big enlargements, or
any of these things IN COMPARISON WITH THE OVERALL IMAGE QUALITY produced
by symmetric (or better still apochromatic) lenses. There will be those
who will of course argue about this; I can only refer to images... you
can make comparisons of the same subject and see the difference. Like I
say, someone may care to argue: I did the experiment and I know whereof I
speak....
I took the same film emulsion (in ektachrome 64) cut it into 35mm (Pentax
Asahi optics), 120 mm (Zeiss Planar) and 4x5 (Schneider Apo-Symmar)...in
spite of each being the same size, the saturation of the view lens
exceeded the Planar which exceeded the pentax... QED
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 22:32:30
From: Simon Stevens
Subject: Jason Wallace's mysterious Bronica
My guess is that you have a Bronica S2/S2a or EC series camera, probably
an S2a. I used to have one about ten years ago until it wore out (which
they are notorious for). Older Bronicas are heavy and clunky, the flash
synch is a miserable 1/40th of a second (that's not a typo) and the
shutter is LOUD.
On the other hand 120/220 backs and lenses are relatively easy to come by
and are very inexpensive. In my opinion the Nikkors, in particular, are
excellent - equal to the Hasselblad's Zeiss I now use. At the
end of the day it's the results that count and you won't be disappointed
with this camera.
From: Andrew YL Lee
Date: 20 Jan 97 14:09:49
Subject: Reply to Jason Wallace and question too!
Hello Jason (and all MF folks out there),
With regards to your E-mail, I think what you might be having is a Zenza
Bronica S2 (I think...) Why? Because I got 1 second Zenza for myself
(Quite a steal actually at S$500, comes with a 150mm, 75mm Nikkor P f2.8
and another 50mm lens, 2 6X6 backs and 1 Mamiya Polaroid which I have
converted myself for the S2). Very old model, this camera, but the Nikkor
lens more than makes up for the noise. I use a Manfrotto to hold the
camera against camera shake, something the camera is notorious for,
probably due to the mechanics of the mirror. (It seems it has copied some
Hasselblad design way back in the 50s, 60s or 70s and Zenza was sued for
it.....Tell me if I'm wrong... :))
Anyway, very rare to find this anywhere nowadays. Great camera to start
MF photography though (Totally manual with no exposure meter!!
Right?). I use a Sekonic for most of my work. .primarily Studio but
occasionally (and I mean occassionally) outdoor landscapes.
Anyone who has used this camera, do write to be to exchange ideas on its
usage
at : [email protected]
I seem to have problem regarding the aperature to use.. I have tried
transferring my 35mm aperture settings for my Canon EOS at studio
sittings to the Zenza but it always seems depth of field is too shallow
on the MF. I then halved the aperture for the 35mm for the MF and found
the resulting depth of field close enough to the 35mm settings. e.g f4 on
35mm = f8 on MF Anyone can explain this? Maybe the circle of confusion is
too large on the MF resulting in the apparent decrease depth of field? Or
is the depth of field for the MF dependent on the ABSOLUTE diameter of
the aperture? (Which explains why halving those MF apertures might be
about the same diameter as the aperture of my 35mm camera). Any
mathematical formula to back this up?
Thanks for your input !!
Regards
Andrew
From: Andrew YL Lee
Date: 28 Jan 97 9:07:02
Subject: MF and 35mm aperture settings.
James and Bryan,
Thanks for the info on the formulas. However, I do not think I have the
time to slowly calculate the depth of field (DOF) of the lens. (The poor
model would be bored to death!! :) ).
What I really need was a rough guide, some sort of a magnitude of scale
of the type of apertures I'm dealing with. I like the DOF of the 35mm
produced but prefer a bigger image. But I can't seem
to get the same DOF on the MF.
The MF I'm using is a Zenza Bronica S2 on a Zenzazon 150mm lens. This is
equivalent to my 35mm Canon camera using a 85mm f1.8 lens. If I stop down
the MF to f4 (Like my Canon aperture setting ), I'd get a very shallow
DOF (Only the eyes are sharp. :P ). This is great if I want to be
artistic but I prefer the face to be sharp too.
Please help on the aperture settings. Should f8 be used because the
aperture size for the MF (e.g. 20mm diameter) is the same as the aperture
size for the 35mm format using f4? So far the photos I got were based
very arbitrarily on experience (and a lot of wasted film.. digital work
wouldn't have helped!!) and I would like something concrete to go on for
an easier guide.
Thanks and regards
Andrew Lee
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 19:41:58
From: Bill Bereza
Subject: Re: MF and 35mm aperture settings.
QUERY:
The MF I'm using is a Zenza Bronica S2 on a Zenzazon 150mm lens. This is
equivalent to my 35mm Canon camera using a 85mm f1.8 lens. If I stop down
the MF to f4 (Like my Canon aperture setting ), I'd get a very shallow
DOF (Only the eyes are sharp. :P ). This is great if I want to be
artistic but I prefer the face to be sharp too.
Please help on the aperture settings. Should f8 be used because the
aperture size for the MF (e.g. 20mm diameter) is the same as the aperture
size for the 35mm format using f4? So far the photos I got were based
very arbitrarily on experience (and a lot of wasted film..digital work
wouldn't have helped!!) and I would like something concrete to go on for
an easier guide.
ANSWER:
There's a much more obvious and simpler way to think about this.
First, don't fall into the trap of thinking that wide-angle lenses on
35mm and MF should give similar DOFs. DOF is based almost entirely on the
focal length of the lens no matter what film format it's for (sure circle
of confusion is a little different). So, a 150mm lens on your Bronica has
a similar DOF to a 150mm lens on your 35mm.
That's why people say MF has a smaller DOF. The normal focal length on MF
is about 80mm, but on 35mm this would be a long lens with a pretty short
DOF. If you want a large DOF on your MF camera, you'll need a very wide
lens.
Bill
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 19:31:51 PST
From: marvin soloff
Subject: Large Format Slide Projectors
MFD subscribers looking for cheap large format projectors may be
interested in this item:
From: C and H Sales Company
2176 East Colorado Blvd,
Pasadena, CA 91107-9988
213-681-4295
818-796-4875 (fax)
Buhl Optical Co. Type #AP-4 or equivalent Large Format Slide Projector.
Originally built for military applications.
Designed to take slides up to 3-1/4 x 4 inches... 12-1/2" focal
length lens, Projection lamp is 115v AC, 750 watts, 60 hz. Cooling fan.
Manual two way slide changer. Heavy duty construction with excellent
bellows focusing system.
Dimensions: 6-1/2" wide x 10 high x 24
deep. Weight 40 pounds including case. Supplied with case and spare
lamp.
Stock # OL92512 - Price $150.00 USD
I call this to the attention of MFD's readers only because of the
Kinderman projector thread. I personally have purchased stuff from C and
H and have found them to be reliable. Note: Same catalog (Fall 1996)
also lists a 3 f/1:2.8 Zeiss Planar (no shutter) for $50.00 and a 3
(75mm) f/1:4.5 Zeiss Biogon (10 element - no shutter) for $600.00 USD.
Copal or Compur shutters can be added.
Regards,
Marv Soloff
[email protected]
From: "Lawrence Ober" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: 2 1/4" slide projector
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998
I have a Kindermann 6cm projector manufactured in the early 1970's. I
believe that they were offered for some time. This model should be
economical and reliable.
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998
From: Jeff Selles [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan
Subject: Re: 2 1/4" slide projector
It's a Sears Automatic 500. On the bottom it says, "Always mention
model no. 804.7201580 when corresponding for parts and service."
Good luck - Jeff
n.b. this is a sears model that accepts 2 1/4 as well as 35mm slides
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 19:35:11
From: Chauncey L. Walden
Subject: Rokkor vs Planar/Xenotar vs Yashikor
Since I found myself in the position of having at hand two Minolta
Autocords (one an earlier model), two Rolleiflexes (E3 with f/3.5 Xenotar
and F with f/3.5 Planar), and two Yashicas (D and 635,
both with Yashikors) I thought I might fan the flames of controversy (or
perhaps throw a little water on them.) Although I was sure I would find
that they were all more than adequate for almost any normal photographic
use, I took one roll of Ilford Pan F+ and ran it through all six cameras,
two frames per each (with frequent trips to the darkroom for rerolling.)
The target was a standard Edmund Scientific Resolving Power Chart set up
outside on a beautiful clear day with the first frame with each camera
shot at f/8 and the second at f/11. In the spirit of the advancing age of
the cameras, the tripod used was a Quick-Set Elevator Senior, and of
course, all of the cameras were equipped with a lens hood and cable
release.
Now, a real lens test would require an optical bench - but very few
actual photographs (that anyone would really want to look at anyway) are
made from optical benches. This test included the real world variables
of the entire camera - lens, lens alignment, focusing screen position,
and film plane alignment (not to mention the operator, but I tried to
minimize this one.) As far as the focusing screens go, I would have to
rank them Rolleiflex F and Autocords first, then the Rolleiflex E3, and
then the Yashicas.
About this time, if they haven't already, someone will ask what about the
Yashicamats? Well, I didn't have one. My first TLR was a Yashicamat (not
counting the Kodak Duoflex.) It was OK and got me hooked, but as soon as
an Autocord came along, the Yashicamat suffered by comparison and went
away. So how come the Yashicas?
They are both in near mint condition and cost less than $50 apiece
because they have that really ratty 3 element Yashikor that is always
getting panned in favor of the Yashinon. Phooey.
Back to the tests. Somehow, there was no overlapping of frames swapping
between the various cameras, and the negatives (developed in Rodinal
1/50, if anyone cares) were studied under a microscope at 30x. The older
Autocord is not charted because it had an obvious focusing screen
misalignment. The results using the chart line pair groups:
Camera f/8 center/corner f/11 center/corner
Autocord 1.2/1.1 2.2/1.2
Rollei Xenotar 1.6/0.6 2.1/1.2
Rollei Planar 2.3/1.6 2.3/1.6
Yashica D 2.1/0.6 2.1/1.1
Yashica 635 2.1/0.6 2.2/1.2
and from previous tests:
Bronica Nikor 1.3/1.3
Kowa 2.1/1.1
Pentacon Biometar 2.1/1.6
Hassie Tessar 1.3/1.1
Hassie Ektar 2.1/1.6
Hassie Planar a little better than the Kowa
Yashicamat a little worse than the Autocord
and to keep us humble and explain why some people lug around large format
cameras: (center at f/16)
135 Culminar (press lens) 2.6
210 Conv. Symmar 3.1
240 Xenar 2.6
300 Ilex-Caltar 3.2
2.1 works out to something like 66 LPM and 2.3 to 88 LPM. This means that
for equivalent detail in the same size print a 35mm lens would have to
resolve something like 99 and 124 LPM.
What does all this prove? Not much. My Rollei Planar is pretty good and
is better than my Rollei Xenotar. My Yashikors are not as well corrected
as the others at the corners but stopping down improves them. Are they
worth $50? Definitely. Are the Autocords worth twice as much? Just for
the focusing screen and increased ease of use.
Are the Rolleis worth four to six or more times as much? There's
something about the weight of one sitting in your hand or balanced on a
monopod - knowing that it is going to keep on doing its thing probably a
lot longer than we are. Can anyone tell the difference between 2.1 and
2.3 on a screen or a 16x20 print? I doubt it. And, in spite of all these
tests, some of my most favorite photographs were made with a pinhole.
What you take will always be more important than what you take it with!
Date: 13 Nov 1996 07:44:38
From: Michael A. Immel
Subject: On Older Bronicas
For those that are interested I have a Bronica Product Catalog (circa
1976) with description of the Models (C, D, S2, S2A and EC). This
includes how to tell them apart, identify the different dark sides, etc.
Also I can include a price list from 1976 that list all the accessories
that were available. The list includes lens (Nikkor, Zenzanon and
Komura).
I also have a S2 and C owners manual.
The Catalog and Price List is $5.00
The manual is $5.00
If anyone is interested in receiving a copy of the catalog, price list or
manual, please send a 9x12 SASE (with postage to cover 3 oz.) to:
Mike Immel
17304 26th Ave. SE
Bothell, WA 98012
HAVE A GREAT DAY (:
MICHAEL A. IMMEL PAGER 986-8356
Internet Address: B-E223 865-5709 FAX 865-4379
[email protected] MAILSTOP 7W-31
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 1996 19:02:29 -0700
From: [email protected] (Redmond Young)
Subject: On Bronicas
I'm looking for information on the Bronica EC, EC-TL, S2,
and S2A class.
1. The dates these cameras were manufactured and discontinued.
2. Compatibility of accessories between these cameras.
3. Lens quality.
4. Reliability.
5. Where to purchase accessories for these cameras (US and Canada).
6. Any other info or experiences with any of these cameras.
ANSWERS:
1) Mfg. Dates:
- S2, unsure
- S2A, about 1969
- EC, about 1972-3
ECTL, about 1975
2) All the lenses are interchangeable. The S models can interchange
finders and backs, but not with the E models. The E models have their
own finders and backs.
3) Supposedly the Nikkors are very, very good. The Zenzanons are good.
The Komuras are acceptable.
4) Watch the S2 winding gears, especially if it's ever seen heavy
usage. The others are suppose to be solid.
5) Purchase them from places like Midwest Photo exchange, Brooklyn
Camera, or Camera Traders.
6) You can buy a TTL manual meter in a chimney finder for the EC. The
ECTL has Aperture Priority AE.
There's a book by Chang called the Bronica Manual.
EDITOR: See Bronica
FAQ for details on publications;
See Michael Beard's Complete
Bronica User's Guide: the Bronica SLR Systems from
Hove Foto Books, St. Helier, UK, 1993, ISBN 1874031207 (pbk) - 160 p.
ill. (some in color);
20cm., new Amphoto edition (Feb.96) available for only $19.95US; Order
from Amazon.com
See also William Cheung's The Bronica Manual, Chislehurst, UK, 1989,
ISBN 0902979078
(pbk) - 175 p. ill (some in color); 22cm. (out of print - try
interlibrary loan) |
I was given a Bronica Zenza 6x6 camera with a 75/2.8 lens with three
backs. One of the backs had 12/25/65 handwritten in it which sounds like
it was given to someone for Christmas in 1965. Does anyone have any
information for this camera? Where can I find a 50mm and 135mm lens for
this camera and is it worth putting any money into getting it cleaned and
repaired and if so, does anyone know of a good (and reasonable) Bronica
repairman.
Hmmmm ... this could be a Bronica C or S. Does the film advance cleanly ?
If it's a S2, it might be worth getting it CLA's. Very hard to find
anyone willing to work on it. Try Photography on Bald Mountain in
California, they promise to tackle anything.
Red Young
From: Jeffrey Frey
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 23:30:47
Subject: Re: lenses suitable for use with 6X6 bellows?
I've just acquired a bellows unit for my Bronica S2 and wonder what
lenses are appropriate to use with it. They must be able to cover the
6X6 negative even when using lensboard rise, and should have a mount
short enough or back-focus long enough to deal with the extra distance
from the film plane.
Did Bronica or anyone else make lenses suitable for this?
Jeff
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 23:45:39
From: Simon Stevens
Subject: re: Russian Kiev cameras, are they worthy?
I have never used a Kiev 80 but I have heard nothing but complaints from
owners of these cameras. Maybe things are better post-communism.
However, if you are looking for an inexpensive 6 x 6 SLR I would
recommend you take a look at the old Bronica S2a.
The S2/S2a can be obtained at a very reasonable cost. True, it is big and
clunky and the flash synchonization is a miserable 1/40th of a second but
the major consolation is the quality of the lenses available.
I used an S2a for several years and have since upgraded to a Hasselblad.
I can honestly say that the Nikkors on the Bronica produce image every
bit as good as the Zeiss on the 'blad. I sometimes find this fact a
little galling considering the relative prices of the outfits.
Incidentally, even though the focal plane shutter does mean a slow flash
sync, it does make possible wide aperture lenses such as the 50mm 2.8
Nikkor I used to own (and sold much too cheap!).
A word of caution. Although they aren't as notorious as the Russian
Hasselblad copies, the shutter/drive mechanism does eventually wear out
and parts are hard to find. If you find a camera that looks worn on the
outside it's a fair assumption that it's worn on the inside. There are
enough clean examples around, I would recommend restricting my shopping
to those.
Simon Stevens.
These items were from Rollei news group, but seemed worth
sharing:
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 13:06:47
From: Richard Knoppow [email protected]
Reply to: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: shutter of old cameras
QUERY:
At 09:16 PM 9/9/97 +0200, you wrote:
Hello, perhaps someone can answer to this question: I have some old
Voigtlander cameras with mechanical shutters. How should I store this
cameras to keep the shutters in a good condition? Especially the long
times (.5, 1 and 2 seconds) tend to get longer (10 seconds or more...).
Should the shutter be strained (- is this the right word?) or released?
Greetings,
Jens Goessing
ANSWER:
The slowing of the speeds comes from the lubricant used on the retarder
escapement becoming gummy with age. The best way to prevent this is to
exercise the shutters regularly. Even with constant use the lubricant
will eventually become dirty just from junk in the air so the shutter
will need to be cleaned and relubricated periodically. Modern synthetic
lubricants have a much longer lifetime than the watch oil used originally
and also work over a much greater temperature range.
Although the conventional wisdom is to store shutters without tension it
may actually not make a difference. If the springs are not tensioned
beyond their elastic limit they will not loose strength with time (note
that Hasselblad shutters _must_ be stored tensioned). However, there will
be forces on other parts of the shutter so its probably just as well to
store them in the released condition.
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
[email protected]
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 16:01:20
From: Tony Zoccolillo [email protected]
Reply to: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: shutter of old cameras
I think all (that I can think of) Voigtlander's have behind or in-lens
leaf shutters, so I would store the camera with the shutter fired to
minimize extension of the springs. I don't know that this is particularly
important though. Most degradation to the spring is due to extensive use.
The bigger problem with leaf shutters is the build up of old oil and
grease, or damage (internal rust) due to humidity. You might consider
storing the cameras in an air tight container (like Tupperware) to
minimize the effects of humidity, especially if you live in a humid
climate.
regards,
Tony Zoccolillo
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: Mark Bergman [email protected]
[1] Re: Use of m-format camera in winter
Date: Fri Feb 06
[email protected] wrote:
I own a Bronica GS-1 and I would like to use it outside in winter. I am
living in Quebec, and average maximum temp. in the day is only -80C with
low down to -15 to -25 in the evening. I used it twice under these
conditions and condensation form while I came back in my house(of
course). I am afraid of long term damage by rust on metal parts in I do
that too often. Is there a way to deal with the problem? Should I just
avoid taking pictures when temp. is below 00C.
Bernard
Get a big Zip-Lock bag and stick your camera in that before bringing it into
the warmer climate. Then leave it in the Zip-Lock bag until it reaches room
temperture.
These messages were from the Photoshopper Medium Forum Q&A
Posted by Hans on
July 28, 1997 at 19:07:03:
In Reply to: Bronica S Prism Finder Identification
posted by Mike Flynn on July 25, 1997 at 00:14:02:
Old Bronica models C,S,S2 and S2a all take the same finders. There were
two types of prism finder made for these models. A newer style came out
with the S2a, and the original.
You can order a copy of the old Bronica manuals from Midwest
Photo....www.mpex.com
Finders for the Deluxe won't fit those models. The fact that your prism
attaches for your camera means it was made for it.
The reason the viewfinder seems a bit dark is because of the advances
made in viewfinder technology since the early '70s when these cameras
were state of the art. At the time, even with the prism, Bronicas were
considered very bright.
From rec.photo.equipment.medium-format:
From: Lisa Horton "Geek"@GatorGames.Com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Kowa 6x6 photo equipment
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 01:59:36
I had a Kowa 6 system for a while. It was ok. It was really heavy, and
an odd shape. While the body with an 80mm is pretty reasonable, the
other lenses are not particularly cheap, compared to other 6x6 slr's of
similar vintage.
I traded mine in on a Bronica S2, which I'm much happier with. It has
interchangable backs (the Kowa 6 doesn't, although the Super 66 does),
removable film inserts which make changing film very quick. It is the
familiar Hassy type shape, handles easily and has a much brighter finder
than the Kowa. Since it has a focal plane shutter, the lenses are much
cheaper, and there are many Nikor lenses available for it. More
accessories and stuff around too, since it was a more popular camera. I
think that the Bronica S series is the best deal going in MF, although
I'm far from an expert.
The leaf shutters on the Kowa allow flash sync at all speeds, while the
focal plane shutter on the bronica only syncs at 1/40 (special X sync
speed) or 1/15 and below.
I've had no problems with the Bronica, despite being 30 years old. The
Nikor 135mm is a wonderful portrait lens.
Lisa Horton
[email protected]
http://www.gatorgames.com/lisa/
Email on Bronica Capabilities with Fine Grain Film and Developing
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 20:58:09
From: "Eugene A. Pallat" [email protected]
Subject: Bronica
Hi Bob,
Just a thought as to what the Bronica is capable. Years ago, when Kodak
dropped Panatomc-X in 120, Ilford brought out Pan-F in 120. The greatest
magnifications I used were one in a 40x50 print, and another in a 16x20
section of a print that would have been more than 4 feet square. It was
count every whisker.
So, for fine grain, try Pan-F as ASA 25 developed undiluted in Ilford's
Perceptol.
Have fun,
Gene
More to come….
Subject: Bronica EC Good or Bad?
From: Larry [email protected]
Date: 1997/10/02
Message-ID: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
I am presently using a Bronica S2A and have three great Nikkor lenses
for it. Although it takes great images, I have been thinking of buying
a later Bronica camera called the EC model which will still take the
lenses I have but has mirror lock up and an electronic shutter. Does
anyone have any experience with the EC they would like to share?
Thanks!
Larry
Subject: Re: Bronica EC Good or Bad?
From: [email protected] (John Hicks)
Date: 1997/10/03
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Larry [email protected] wrote:
-EC model
Don't even think about it!
While the electronics were a weak point, another big problem was the
two-piece mirror; it was just about impossible to keep it aligned and
if you couldn't keep it aligned you really couldn't view or focus.
The only old Bronica worth fooling with is the one you have, the
S2A.
jbh
Subject: BRONICA QUALITY
From: [email protected] (BIGHOTDOGY)
Date: 1997/09/29
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
I've noticed that very little is mention in these postings regarding
Bronica cameras.
Why is that? Is it because so few own and use Bronica? Or, is it because
this brand of medium format camera is so good, people are not having as
much trouble with it...or what?
I bought a used Bronica SQ over two years ago and use it moderately.
Haven't had a single problem yet. I owned a couple of other medium format
cameras - Mamiya RB67 and the m645j. They too were good cameras also bought
used. The picture quality produced by bronica is excellent. I noticed that
most posting are about Hassy's and Mamiya's - very little about Bronica.
What gives?
I recently talked to an owner of a well known used camera repair store
here in the valley. He rated the following medium format cameras by
reliability and optical quality:
1) Hassalblad and Rollie
2) Bronica
3) Mamiya
4) Pentax
If Bronica is so good, then why aren't people buying, using, talking and
comparing it with the other quality cameras?
Subject: Re: BRONICA QUALITY
From: Wayne Firth [email protected]
Date: 1997/09/29
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Maybe the Bronica people are too busy using their cameras to have any
time to talk about them. I think Bronica is great!
Wayne Firth
Subject: Re: BRONICA QUALITY
From: [email protected] (Robert Monaghan)
Date: 1997/09/29
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Hi!
owners of bronica classic cameras seem to be generally pretty happy, esp.
with the quality of the nikkor lenses for the bronica classics (S2a, EC/TL..)
quotes at the site URL below by Pop.Photo experts selected the Bronica
S2/A series as the best buy among classic medium formats for many reasons...
costs tend to be very startlingly low compared to other medium format
systems; for example, a bronica S series camera with 3 (three!) lenses and
a spare back and a prism and some filters and other stuff just sold an
hour ago on EBAY auction for under $500 - try to buy a removable back 6x6
with nikkor lenses or similar quality for those $$, and you can see why so
many have picked up on the Bronicas as the affordable quality MF camera...
most of us have used nikons that cost a lot more than that with 3 lenses!!
disadvantages of the older bronicas, as with other MF vintage cameras, is
the lack of repair parts and certain options are rare (fisheyes, polaroid
backs). But the later cameras were more reliable and many have seen years
of minimal trouble service.
for more info on these classic bronica cameras - see the bronica classic
camera web site at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
there is a lot of info there on the various cameras, options, lenses, and
accessories for those interested in learning more about classic Bronicas!
enjoy - bobm
--
Robert Monaghan POB752182 Dallas Tx 75275-2182
[email protected]
Subject: Re: "Shutter shake": Worse in lightweight bodies? Please
advise
From: [email protected] (Greg Erker)
Date: 1997/10/15
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
In article 01bcd752$23af6a80$2ca036cf@alpha, "Eugene A. Pallat"
[email protected] wrote:
Mirror slap can be very signigicant. For example, I used to have a
Bronica S2A 2 1/4 which used a split mirror (top and bottom half wre
separated) to minimize the effect.
I thought it was the EC that had the two part mirror. My S2A has a single
mirror as far as I can see. It does have an odd movement though: it moves
forward and down under the lens rather than swinging up like a 35 mm SLR.
--
Greg Erker, Research Engineer at, (but not speaking for)
TRLabs, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
[email protected]
[Editor's Note: EC had split mirror, S2/a mirror is one piece and does
indeed move down and forward, see S2/C Manual
online for
photos. I have also seen tests with accelerometers that concluded that
lightweight 35mm sized bodies (1+ pounds) were much more subject to
vibration than heavier cameras. I decided that effect partially explains
why the Bronicas can sound so loud and yet perform so well? See older
book Photography for the Serious Amateur for details.]
Here is a note on one of Greg's current Bronica MF projects:
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997
From: Greg Erker [email protected]
On the subject of lens hacking. I've talked to my
brother-in-law (a machinist) about making me an adapter
for the 57x1mm mount to let me attach my Pentax 35mm
(format) SLR lens on in reverse (for macro).
I will probably get him to make a short tube type
adapter with 57x1mm male thread on one end and a
55 or 58 mm male filter thread on the other. I have
a couple of step up rings and would mount my 50 mm lens
(reversed) on my Bronica.
Handholding the lens in about the right place, and
looking thru the viewfinder, it appears that the 50 will give
a nice sharp macro effect, with some focusing range thanks
to the body focusing helical.
I'll probably also get him to make me a lens-cover
like disk that will screw into the 57x1mm mount. Then
if I find a cheap leaf shutter lens in the future I
can mount it on that cap and have full speed flash
sync.
I'll let you know when I have something to add to
your site.
Regards - Greg
[Editor's Note: Be sure to check out Greg's
Stereo 3D Medium Format
Viewer Project and
neat camera projects home page
links!]
From: Sheldon Brown [email protected]
[1] Re: Ektar 127 mm lens
Date: Mon Oct 27 15:39:19 CST 1997
Organization: Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
I've mounted a 127 Ektar in a body cap for my old Bronica S2A. I use
this with the bellows (which has a tilt/shift front standard.) It gives
very nice results on 2 1/4, and the coverage permits rather extreme
tilts without vignetting.
Sheldon Brown
Newtonville, Massachusetts
+--------------------------------------------------------------+
| Warning: Objects in mirror appear smarter than they are. |
+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 07:06:02
From: Sheldon Brown [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: Re: Ektar 127 mm lens
Robert,
Thanks for letting me know about your site. I'm a former camera repairman,
and used to work on Bronicas (along with Rollei tlrs, Retinas. Contaces and
the usual...)
I still have a working S2A and a couple of parts cameras, tho' I don't use
it much anymore. My first love is my Rolleiflexes, though. Most of my
photography these days is aimed at the Web, and for 72 dpi 6 x 6 film is a
bit of an extravagance...
It has been my understanding that the principal difference between the S2
and S2A is that the S2A has a clutch in the wind mechanism that prevents
overwinding and damaging the gears.
I also have a Leitz 280 mm lens which I've adapted to work on the Bronica,
and for a while I owned an ECTL. I used to do photograpy of bicycle
racing, and invested a lot of time, trouble and money in trying to do it
with 6 x 6. I found that the ECTL was too easy to accidentally switch off
of autofocus in the heat of action. In the end, I found that 35 mm was
just plain better for that application.
For only a 7-week old site, your site looks very nice...maybe not so good
for my pocketbook, however, because one of your links led me to a Nikkor 85
mm f1.4 which I may wind up buying ;-)
I'll put a link on my photography page:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/photography.html
All the best,
Sheldon Brown
[Ed. Note - see Homebrew Bronica Lenses
article for ideas on using generic lenses on bronica as Mr. Brown
describes above. See his photography page for some fun and interesting
photos of Quebec, recycled throwaway camera photos and reloading hints,
DX code guide,and many other neat items and fun photos!]
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 1997 15:44:00
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Tony Hilton's new book for Collectors
Robert,
... Tony Hilton
should be coming up with a book to help the collector, I'll let you know
when
it's available.
Talk to you soon,
Micheal Beard Email Mr.
Beard
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 22:41:10
From: Michael McBroom
[email protected]
Reply to: [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Hi Robert,
Thanks for your prompt reply!
Robert Monaghan wrote:
Hi - glad to hear from you, enjoy your guide book and appreciated its
listing of bronica materials esp. older S series items ;-)
.......
Actually, I became quite fascinated by these older Bronicas after
obtaining my EC-TL. That's the main reason why my S and EC listings are
so extensive. I even went back through years of old photo magazines,
searching for reviews and advertizements (both from Bronica and
merchants) to find out as much as I could about these cameras.
========
[Editor's note:]
For more information or to order a copy of Mr. Michael McBroom's
Camera Bluebook Pricing Guide (1995-6 edition), visit his online order page and get a
30% discount!
From: [email protected] (KHous52760)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: WEBSITE FOR OLDER BRONCIA CAMERAS
Date: 25 Oct 1997 14:50:53 GMT
I just wanted to share this website with fellow readers who may be interested
in specs, comments, history on any of the older Bronica S/ S2/S2A/ EC/ ECTL
cameras. I Just happened to stumble on this website while surfing the web;
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
Enjoy!
Kenneth Houston
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 14:44:20
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: greetings
Bob,
I have been collecting instruction books from the camera fairs, as well as
leaflets and brochures. So far my best effort has been to get the Deluxe
instructions, but nothing that speaks of 6X8 S2A's or
left hand S2A's, 6X9
backs for the Ec's, or 35mm camera's. But I will keep on trying.
I was delighted to find your site, I can't believe that more people haven't
shown an interest! If I can help with anything, then get me a call.
My Japanese friend, Mr 'T',
could probably repair the old lighters too, that's where he started.
Continue the good work, hopefully one day I will have my own web site
advertising The Camera Workshop, which deals with the
[Bronica] repairs.
Meanwhile I shall keep reading your web site and learning all that it has to
offer.
I have been photographing all the old camera's as they come along, and
listing the serial numbers as you have found. I believe this is important
because the numbers show where models stopped and started. The EC-TL and
EC-TL11, show this because the camera's don't start with a new number, so we
need the cut of point.
I find it amazing that the factory in Japan has 'lost' all the records
relating to their products! Anyway most of my pictures are slides, taken on
an ETR-Si in the main, some are on 35mm. If you'd like me to send you any
let me which ones and I'll see if I have them.
I look forward to seeing the rest of your site.
Bye for now
Michael. Email Mr.
Michael Beard
[Editor's note: address added]
28 Worcester Road,
Uxbridge,
Middlesex, UB8 3TH
U.K.
See also Bronica Repair Facilities Page
for Mr. Beard's Offer of help...
He is also the author of Michael Beard's Complete
Bronica User's
Guide: the
Bronica SLR Systems from Hove Foto Books, St. Helier, UK, 1993,
ISBN
1874031207 (pbk) - 160 p. ill. (some in color); 20cm., new Amphoto
edition (Feb.96) available for only $19.95US.
Order from Amazon.com
|
Quotes from Shutterbug Ads about Bronica Classic Cameras
Shutterbug Ads Home
Page
I highly recommend that you visit this site and subscribe if you have an
interest in photography and especially medium format or large format
photography. Mr. Bob Shell, the current editor,
is a very knowledgeable
photography professional, including past stints as a camera repairman and
classic Bronica S2 owner among his many accomplishments. Shutterbug
Ads is still the top source of photographic equipment information and
buying resource for serious amateur and professional photographers in the
U.S. To get an idea of what you may be missing, see listings of For-Sale items and Shutterbug Classifieds
Online if you need more convincing! Don't miss out! |
There are, however, some wonderful 'official' and semi-official 'off
the shelf' adapters such as the Bronica SLR to
Linhof, or Hasselblad to Sinar. Both are special back plates which
replace the regular ground glass on the big camera, and have a male munt
on the back so you can fit your rollfilm SLR. Needless to say, these give
you viewcamera movements (swing, tilt, rise and fall) and added extension
for closeup, all with the convenience of reflex viewing.
Using Adapters SA Feb. 1992 p.90 by Roger W. Hicks
If you are on a tight budget with a few hundred dollars on tap, and
you plan to shoot no more than a dozen or so rolls of film a week, you
probably could not do better than a good used S2 or S2A. I am more than
pleased with mine.
Even today, a large assortment of accessories is easy to find and
relatively inexpensive for these cameras. Look through our (Shutterbug
Ads) classified and display ads and you will find extension tubes,
backs, bellows, prism finders, and a wide array of lenses from 40mm up to
400mm and beyond.
Bronica S2 SA Dec. 1991 pp.42-3 by Jeffrey E.
Steele
The Bronica S2A was a very rugged camera. It seems that the shutter
problems that dogged the early Zenza efforts were finally brought under
control. I know several photographers using S2As for many years now and
still very happy with them.
Medium Format Notes and Ideas SA Jan. 1984 p. 6 by Dave Blocher
Biased Opinions on Other 2 1/4s:
Bronica:
I thought they'd just about refined themselves into a pretty good
camera with the EC-TL, and then they change concepts. They need a
constant system with name lenses (translated: bring back the Nikkors) and
some better marketing.
Medium Format Notes and Ideas SA Dec. 1981 p.23 by
Dave Blocher
From Bob Shell in Radford Virginia, some comments..
He also questions my comments on the 50mm Nikkor for Bronica being
non-retrofocus. He had both the 40mm and 50mm Nikkors and wishes they'd
had a body worthy of them.
Dear Bob
..
About the 50mm Nikkors there were at least two different 50mm Nikkors.
The one I had extended well back into the camera body (at least 1 1/2'')
and there's no way an upward swinging mirror would have cleared that
lens. The later design was a retrofocus. Mine was f3.5 and I believe the
later ones were f2.8. I had a Bronica 'S'. The downward mirror was, I
believe, replaced on the C and S2 models. It was a camera designed to
provoke nostalgia - big, ugly, noisy, and rather eccentric (that's not
how I referred to it when the shutter kept failing then) but lovable.
Medium Format Notes and Ideas SA July 1982 p.7 by Dave Blocher
From Bob Shell in Radford Virginia, a regular and valued contributor:
You still haven't got the Bronica stuff quite right. The down and forward
mirror... was on all Bronicas from the first down through the S2A. I work
on tons of these brutes and I never quite figured out why old man
Zenzaburo went to all that damn trouble to design so horribly complex a
mechanism when there were easier ways to do it.
For some reason, the Nikon lens designers did not give sufficient rear
clearance on even their retrofocus designs to use a flip mirror. The 50mm
Nikors came first in an f3.5 and about 1967 in an f2.8, but both extend a
good 1 1/2'' back into the mirror cage and were retrofocus designs. (I
stand corrected. My 50mm f3.5 had a tapering back end like the 40mm
retrofocus Distagon. It was the protrusion rearward that lead me to think
it was a standard design. However, the standard design usually has a
rear element that mirror-image the large front element.)
...[n.b. Mr. Shell is now the editor of Shutterbug
Ads]
Medium Format Notes and Ideas SA July 1983 p.24 by Dave Blocher
I owned an S2A in the early 70s and used it hard for about five years
before selling it, and had bought it from a working pro. Last I heard, it
was still going strong without ever a breakdown. The only service I gave
it while I had it was a clean and lube about once a year. The Nikkor
lenses for this camera are top notch, as good as many lenses made today.
The Zenzanon lenses of this vintage ae not very good, in my experience,
being very low in contrast. Komura also made lenses for these Bronica
cameras, and they were pretty good. I still use a 300mm f/6.3 Komura
which I bought for this camera and later adapted to my Rollei SL66. One
unique point about the S2 series Bronica cameras is that the focusing
mount is separate from the lens head and the same focusing mount is used
for lenses from 40mm up to 150mm. Since the focusing mount comes
completely off, when the bellows is fitted and the lens head attached,
the bellows can focus any of these lenses to infinity,and has view camera
like movements on the front standard, it also has a lever to open the
lens for focusing and stop it down for shooting. When I was still using
the Bronica,I had an adapter made which allowed me to use my view camera
lenses on the bellows.
The S2 series was followed by the Bronica EC series, a very advanced
camera with electronic shutter control and a two-piece reflex mirror to
eliminate image cutoff with telephoto lenses. Keeping the two halves of
the mirror in alignment proved an impossible task, and most of these
suffer from misalignment which causes double images on the upper part of
the focusing screen. Prisms, finders, backs, and bellows for S2 series
cameras will not fit the EC and vice versa. Used EC cameras can be good
picture takers, but accessories are difficult to find and the cameras are
difficult or impossible to have repaired.
Both the S series and EC Bronica cameras have cloth focal plane shutters
which synchronize flash at 1/30 second and have speeds up to 1/1000
second.
Medium Format on a Budget SA January 1992 p. 64 by Bob Shell
From Tony Giraldes of Fresno, California..
I read your column in the October issue of Shutterbug with great
interest, especially regarding the Bronica camera. I own two of them, one
is a 1957 which I believe was the model they introduced
to the U.S., and the other is an ECTL I purchased four years ago.
The 1957 model was purchased about six years ago from a former college
professor of mine, the original owner. Her reason for picking a Bronica
was that she couldn't afford a hasselblad in 1957. My reason for buying
her Bronica was tht my Mamiya C33 seemed to be getting heavier all the
time. This model has the film focusing, shutter winding, and film advance
all in one know on the side. It had been used almost daily and so was in
pretty good shape. The shutter only jammed once where my fiddling with it
wouldn't make it work again. The dealer in San Francisco at the time
refused to touch it on the grounds that it was too complicated. So, a
local repairman here in Fresno did the work. He said it was probably the
most complicated mechanically of the pre-electronic medium format
cameras.
I bought the ECTL since I already had the Nikkor 50mm, 75mm, and 135mm
lenses, as well as many accessories that fit both cameras. I bought the
ECTL by mail from Cambridge Cameras in New York.
I have had only two problems with it. There is a pin holding one of the
rollers in the film back that is constantly falling out; apparently, they
are merely glued in. The other problem is that the shutter button locks,
and when you go to twist it to unlock it, the little screwed-in cover on
the button unscrews and falls off. Again with the glue!
Both cameras work well, although I'm sure the newer model is much more
accurate in regards to shutter speeds. I like the focusing on the older
model better as it is faster than the front focusing on the ECTL. Also,
the light meter is hard to read on the ECTL if the sun is bright. Then
again, the ECTL has yet to jam up on me like the older model has a
tendency to do now and then. You can really appreciate the mechanical
marvel of the older model as you smnap a picture and hear that special
'clunk' that makes the camera jump out of your hand. Needless to say, I
use the ECTL most of the time now.
I certainly enjoy reading your columns when they appear,which I hope will
be more frequently.
Dear Tony,
Thank you for your letter. You don't mention the early model, but it
sounds like the Bronica 'S' (the earlier Deluxe also had the shutter
speeds on the right hand side to further clutter up that side. On the 'S'
they switched the speeds to the left hand side.) I have a soft spot in my
heart for the 'S' which was one of the earliest cameras I owned and the
first I considered to be of 'professional' quality.
The one part of the 'S' that has not been picked up by any of the medium
format SLRs is the rack and pinion focusing on the right hand side!...
Anyway, it's extremely convenient. Most people are right handed and have
better manual dexterity in their right hand than in their left. Since
rapid focusing is a feat of some dexterity, it would make sense to focus
with the right hand and to trigger the camera with the left hand (as the
stanrdard Hasselblad handhold is designed to do).
[Rollei SL rack and pinion discourse...]
Past that rambling, we come
back to the right hand rack and
pinion focus. It's simply superb, far better and easier than the helical
focusing of the Hasselblad and the later Bronicas.The new lenses for
Hasselblad are more gripable; we don't have to use those odd protrusions
of black plastic (focusing handles). But,they still don't focus as
smoothly as the Rollei SL with its rack and pinion.
You were wise to hold on to your Nikkors. They are superb optics. Hope
you enjoy your system. Yes, it is necessary to line up a good repairman,
but there appears to be a goodly number of them where Bronicas are
concerned.
Medium Format Notes and Ideas SA March 1986 p.110 by Dave
Blocher
From Robert Lucas in Mississippi State, Mississippi:
Enjoy your column very much, best I have seen. Would like to see more
about such as Bronica, Mamiya 645, Pentax 6x7 etc. Sooo much written
aboaut Zeiss, etc.
Re: Your request for input from Bronica S2 users. I have owned two and
used them as backup cameras - shot about 20 rolls a week through them.
Had a shutter lock up once - $100. That was the only problem. I called
them my 'baby' Hassies because of cosmetic similarities. Your comment
about parts hard to find - No! I don't agree, see the Shutterbug Ads.
Lots of stuff around. Rumor from others is that the EC is a better, more
reliable unit but the electronics of the EC-TL were a nightmare. Never
owned an EC-TL, not sure. But even the current Bronica importers out east
told me so.
I am a medical photographer but do a great deal of 2 1/4 P.R. work -
portraits, annual reports, brochuers, etc. Switched to Pentax 6x7 and am
very happy, except one thing. I loved those interchangeable Bronica
backs. Now I use a lot of 220 film for convenience. The Pentax 6x7 is
beautiful for studio and location work. I really like the 6x7 format. As
for 6x4.5s I'd like to use them but the quality difference is quite
noticeable on an 11x14 from 6x4.5 versus 6x7 with Tri-X. Anyway, love the
Pentaxes, like the Mamiya, and will always remember the Bronica. A good
buy at $300 if you get a good one! Remember how old they are.
Dear Bob
Thanks for your thoughts on the Bronica S-2....
Medium Format Notes and Ideas SA Sept. 1984 p.28 by Dave
Blocher
Medium Format Digest Posting:
From: Stephen Poe [email protected]
Subject: Bronica S2 - S2A, backs and bellows Questions
Date: 1997-11-24
I recently got a Bronica S2A (CB779** S2A) and 3 S2A backs. Today when I
went
to pick up a bellows 2, I ended up also coming home with a grey S2 body
(CB558**) and an S2 back (CB707**) - The backs for the S2 and S2A look like
they will interchange - slide is different, but everything else looks the
same.
Will these backs interchange without causing damage. Would appreciate any
information. Thanks
Also, BTW, the bellows came with a 20 cm f/4.5 Leitz Telyt lens - anyone
with
any experience using a telephoto like this on a bellows for macro work.
Thanks
again
[Note: a followup and more information on Mr. Poe's projects...]
Thanks for the information - I tried interchanging the backs, and there
seems to be no problem - that is nice as it gives me much more flexibility.
As regards the bellows and the Leitz Telyt lens - I looked up the lens in
the Morgan and Morgan book, and it turns out it was designed to use with
the Leitz visoflex - that is why the disign hangs out 2 1/2 in. on the back
- as far as I can tell it has plenty of coverage for the Bronica. I did
some pictures with today, and if the results are at all interesting I will
send some your way. The lens is mounted on a 57 x 1 adapter (looks like a
lens cap) drilled and then treaded in the Leica thread. Different than the
39 mm thread on most of my enlarging lenses, but does fit my 100 Ektar. I
also have a 135 Wollensak Apo Pro Raptar that I would like to try on there.
I think that better enlarging lenses, or some flat field older large
format lenses like the 210 Artar or 203 Ektar (I have one of those also)
will work best for real macro work - Just have to burn through some film to
see what works. I really need to find some of those 57 x 1 caps that I can
drill out (I made a fly cutter to use on my drill press) and thread if
necessary. Just need to find out where to get the 57 x 1 caps.
....
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997
From: [email protected] (Medium Format Digest)
From: Larry Life [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica EC Problem (Electronic)
Date: 1997-11-18
Joe,
If you still care.
I have 2 EC bodies and both have exhibited the same fault as long as I've
owned
them. After any period of disuse the shutter will not fire immediately on the
first trip. The delay has ranged from 20 sec. to 2 min. Once it has fired the
first time it works perfectly. So I always remove the back and allow the
first
shutter fire before I set up any shots. After that smooth sailing.
I must admit that knowing this trick allowed for an excellent deal on the
second body!
Cheers,
Larry
--------------
Medium Format Digest Posting:
From: Larry Life [email protected]
Subject: Response to TMAX-100 with Bronica S2a
Date: 1997-11-18
Larry,
The advice you noted is good, unfortunately.
The combination of thicker base and the double-back film
path of the Bronica
puts an enormous amount of strain on the gearing. Even
though Bronica beefed up
the transport mechanism on the S2A, prudence probably
disallows the use of one
of my favorite films.
Cheers,
Larry
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998
From: FXHLLW [email protected]
Subject: Astrophotography with Bronica
In the
meantime, what I have is a Bronica S I acquired to use for astrophotography.
I found it extremely adaptable due to the focuser being on the camera body
allowing easy adaptation of long lenses for astronomy. Two I have used
are a
2500 mm f/10 catadioptric and the other a 400 mm f/5.6 Pentax. Both
yield
great photos and fully illuminate the negative. I also use a modified 35
mm
type doubler as a magnifying element to photograph lunar features. I get
about
4x magnification of the prime focus image (50x) for great close ups.
Mike Foreman
Close Focusing Fractional Diopter Lenses
Chances are good that you have already noted that most medium format
lenses do not focus as closely as you might like. You can either:
- add extension tube or use the unique Bronica bellows
- add fractional diopter lenses to enhance close focusing abilities
The first option requires either a thin extension tube or a variable
bellows. Fortunately, the Bronica tilt/shift bellows offer a unique ability
to go from closeup to infinity focusing using the standard lenses. This
approach is the ideal way to achieve close focusing with the Bronica with
any of the standard lenses. Even if you have
the older Bronica bellows, however, you can still use it to extend
your closeup range on all your bellows mounting lenses.
In a sense, the Bronica bellows converts your
regular lenses into not only close focusing but also closeup lens for
macrophotography use. This helps explain why there isn't a separate macro
lens or lenses in the Bronica standard lens lineup. All the standard
Bronica lenses can be mounted on the bellows and used with a continuous
range from infinity to extreme closeups. You can also reverse mount your
lenses on the bellows for extended range macrophotography using an adapter.
While the standard lenses aren't optimized for macrophotography, they
will work in this mode. Finally, you can always use a macrolens on your
bellows with a simple adapter or lens board setup (see notes).
On most other
medium format systems, mounting the bellows loses infinity focusing.
Compared to 35mm lenses of similar
angular coverage, medium format lens close-focusing ability is very
limited. This reality is dictated by the physics of the larger
format, not a conspiracy amongst manufacturers. A few innovative
medium format cameras (e.g., Rollei SL series) now offer an integral
bellows as one solution to this problem.
Bellows are great
in the studio and on many work sites, but not always the best choice under
backpacking or field
conditions. Thin extension tubes are one way around this problem. But
since extension tubes are used with the regular helical mount, you
will lose infinity focusing for the sake of convenience, sturdiness, and
reduced bulk. Taking them on and off frequently will add a lot of wear
and tear on not only the camera body mounts but the owner too.
There is a second option, typified by the use of a fractional diopter
closeup lens. The closeup lens for the 200mm Nikkor is a good example.
Screw it on like a filter, and you gain lots of extra close focusing range.
Yes, you do
lose infinity focusing, just as you would with the standard +1, +2, +4
and other diopter lenses. But it is lighter than a bellows, easier to
carry, lots cheaper, and can even be used on non-Bronica systems
(e.g., Kowa 6 takes 67mm thread filter items too).
You may be interested in how to calculate which diopter does what. The +1
diopter converts your lens' infinity focusing point to one meter. Closer
lens focusing distances relate to distances less than one meter (39 inches).
A +2 diopter closeup lens provides one-half (1/2) meter close focusing
distance. A +4 diopter closeup lens provides one-fourth (1/4) meter close
focusing distance. Some variable diopter optics provide a continuous
range from +1 to +10 diopters, or one meter to one-tenth meter (4 inches)
close focusing distance.
Quality on closeup diopter lenses is usually adequate
for most closeup and macrophotography. Two element lens construction (e.g.,
Nikon) is usually much better optical quality than the single element
construction in most third party and cheaper closeup lenses. With two
elements, you can correct for optical defects. The single element
lens necessarily possesses these defects but lacks the optical degrees of
freedom to
correct. But as you would guess, the two element lenses are much more
expensive than the single element lenses.
A fractional diopter closeup lens works the same way, so a +1/2 diopter
lens provides a 2 meter close focusing distance, and a +1/4 diopter lens
provides a 4 meter close focusing distance. These focusing distance shifts
are independent of the underlying lens, although area covered will vary.
A wide angle lens still covers more area at one meter than a 200mm
lens even while using a closeup lens due to its angle of coverage.
Since many Bronica lenses use similar (67mm) filter sizes, a single
fractional diopter lens can be used with multiple lenses in the same
filter ring size. Conversely, if you have the Bronica/Nikkor closeup lens
for the 200mm, you can try it on your other 67mm filter ring lenses as
well. You can even use an adapter (e.g., series 8 to desired filter size)
to try it on other lens mounts.
In short, look into fractional diopter closeup lenses if you find
yourself frustrated by the limited close focusing distance of most medium
format lenses. These lenses are light, relatively inexpensive, and usable
on many different lenses and even multiple formats with the right
adapters.
From: Colm Boran [email protected]
Subject: Response to Cleaning ground glass focusing screen
Date: 1998-01-29
I once washed an acute matte screen on a Hasselblad I was renting
to get rid of bunch of particles that appeared to be stuck on
the glass. After washing it very gently under a stream of water,
I discovered that the screen was a sandwich of two plates held
together by a metal frame and now I had water trapped between the
two panes! I had to shoot in a few hours and needed to dry the area
between the panes. I decided to put in in a slightly heated oven
with the burners extinguished (the temperature was probably around 130 F (55
C). Since glass and nearly all metals don't even soften at these low
temperatures, I figured everything would be OK. I put it
in the oven on piece of paper towel and took it out after about 1
minute. Almost all the water had disappeared from between the panes! I stuck
it back in the oven for about 30 seconds and pulled it out again. To my
horror,
one of the "panes" had warped! The second "pane"
of the sandwich wasn't glass at all but some kind of plastic which I
had just thoroughly ruined. I had to go out to a store and buy a replacement
acute matte for my rented camera ($230!). That happened
a few years ago and I've never had the courage to tell the story
to anyone until now because I felt so stupid.
So, beware of washing the screen!
[Ed. Possible source for mercury batteries needed in light meters...]
From: "Doug Roach" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.misc
Subject: Hard To Find Batteries
Date: 29 Jan 1998
PX675 & PX625 Direct replacement Mercury 1.35volt batteries
CR123A Lithium 3.0Volts
Special Purchase
Order from
Canadian Quality Concepts
101 Fife Rd.
Guelph, Ontario
Canada
N1H-6X9
Check or Money order payable to
Canadian Quality Concepts
PX625 & PX675
(1-3) $4.69 U.S.
(4-10) $4.39 U.S.
( 11+) $4.19 U.S.
CR123A Lithium
$6.95 U.S.
Postage and Handling $2.50
From: Peter Hardman [email protected]
Subject: Response to 1.5 volt vs. 1.3 volt batteries for Yashica meter
Date: 1998-02-10
According to my Duracell 'Guide for Designers':
A mercury cell has an initial (new) voltage of 1.35V. This declines in the
first 5-10% of its life to 1.2V, which it then holds until the last 5% of its
life, when it declines rapidly.
An alkaline cell has an initial (new) voltage of 1.5V. This declines in the
first 15% of its life to 1.25V, which it then holds until the last 30% of its
life, when it begins a slow decline.
A silver oxide cell has an initial (new) voltage of 1.6V. This declines
in the
first 5-10% of its life to 1.5V, which it then holds until the last 1%,
when it
just dies.
A zinc-air cell has an initial (new) voltage of 1.4V. This declines in the
first 5% of its life to 1.2V, which it then holds until the last 1%, when it
just dies.
The life expectancy (new to start of decline) of the same physical size cells
(LR44/675)is:
Mercury 1, alkaline 0.45, silver oxide 0.54, zinc-air 1.7
Simple meters are just a series circuit and will be voltage dependent.
More sophisticated ones will be a bridge circuit which is not voltage
dependent. I don't know which ones Yashica's have.
If you have a voltage dependent meter then silver oxide batteries will
cause an error, but it will be reasonably constant so you can calibrate
it out
by comparing the reading with another meter and adjusting the ASA setting.
Alkaline batteries will give errors both when new and at end-of-life
-
which you won't know about. So alkalines are _not_ a good substitute.
There are a couple of snags with zinc-air batteries, which would
otherwise be
ideal. These are that once the tab is pulled off to 'start' the cell it only
has a life of about 2 months whether it is in use or not. The other is
that the
maximum load current is determined by the rate at which oxygen can
diffuse into
the cell, so you will need to run a test to make sure the cell can cope
in your
particular meter. Make sure that the battery compartment is not
air-tight, and
also that air can get to the little hole in the cell which is exposed
when you
pull the tab off to 'start' the cell.
You pays your money and you takes your choice!
Alkalines will give
So : If you replace a mecury cell with a ....
[Ed. note: error in original MFD of Thu, 12 Feb 1998]
Medium
Format Digest Posting:
From: barry eastlack [email protected]
Subject: Response to Best Films for Night Photography?
Date: 1997-11-24
Again, Velvia is an excellent choice, as I have shot both
downtown Dallas and
the Morton Meyerson. Reciprocity ratings for Velvia as
follows:
Meter Reading: Exposure time:
8 seconds 12 seconds
10 16
12 19
16 28
20 39
25 49
32 66
40 88
50 116
64 158
Medium Format Digest Posting:
From: Zonghou Xiong [email protected]>
Subject: Response to Best Films for Night Photography?
Date: 1997-11-25
Be warned that Velvia will turn some underexposed night objects
including clouds to green. Bright light spots vs. dark building
will be fine, though. You might have to use a red filter and
extend the exposure by one stop.
[Ed. Note: I thought the above 120 film data for night photography might
stimulate some readers to try out some fun night photography activities!]
[Ed. note: It is generally well known that you can build a great loupe
out of an older normal lens (reversed) in an off-the-slide mount. Here is
a less expensive commercial option and a high-quality Schneider loupe
made using an enlarger lens... Enjoy ;-)]
Medium Format Digest Posting:
From: Jaisen Nailen [email protected]
Subject: Medium Format Loupe
Date: 1997-11-25
For quite some time I had searched for a loupe large enough for full
viewing my
6x6 chromes. Rodenstock makes one, but it is very expensive. For a cheap
solution, go to your nearest "Wal-Mart" or similar department store.
Look in
the toy section around the telescopes and stuff. Tasco makes a toy loupe for
kids to look at insects with. The base is 3.5" square while the diameter of
the lens is 2.25". While the optics are not the quality of a Rodenstock, I
believe that the $5.00 price tag makes it worth buying anyway. I use it for
inspecting my slides, then if I need to, I will use my 8x loupe. Go pick one
up and let me know what you think! Hope this helps someone.
From: [email protected] (Warren Young)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment,rec.photo.misc
Subject: How to make a $30 Schneider Loupe
Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998
I've just written an article detailing how I made a fine loupe from an
old Schneider-Kreuznach enlarger lens. The text is applicable to many
other types of lenses, including that old 50mm standard lens you have
laying around gathering dust. The article is at:
http://www.cyberport.com/~tangent/photo/pseudoschneider.html
= Warren -- http://www.cyberport.com/~tangent
[Editor's Note: Our 42nd Bronica lens - a fast f2.3 135mm Komura!]
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997
From: Phil Minell [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica Lens not listed
I just purchased a Bronica S with a Komura 135MM f2.3 lens. Serial No.
S141081
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998
From: "Harold & Irene B." [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Leather for Rollei
Thought you might try calling these folks to see if they can help:
Leather/Cloth
1372 LaPlaya
San Francisco, CA 94122
(415) 333-3939
Harold
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998
From: Todd Campbell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] glue for Rollei leather
Check out Fargo Enterprises at www.fargo-ent.com They have all kinds of
adhesives for photographic use and have an online catalogue.
Hope this helps
Todd Campbell
Pacific InnoVision
[Ed. note: this may help some Bronica owners with loose coverings]
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996
From: Tony Zoccolillo [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] glue for Rollei leather
I think Pliobond is most often used but you could also use the two sided
tape that modern 35's so often use. I know Fargo Enterprises sells it, but
I think it's expensive (like $25-30 a roll). If you use Pliobond wet it
will remain more pliable and easier to remove the leather later. If you use
it like contact cement, it will be a solid bond and you'll need an
Xacto-knife to remove the leather.
Tony Zoccolillo
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998
From: "F.W. Stutterheim" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] glue for Rollei leather
I use nail varnish. (Is that the right word?). I mean the stuff wives put on
their nails. There is a transparant version. It works very well. I keep on
buying bottles. Recently my daughter was off with a one. They find there
are useful aspects to my hobby.
Ferdi.
Notes: Need to refinish chrome or other plating? Edmund Scientific offers
an electroplating kit that can do chrome, silver, copper, rhodium,
and gold. I am thinking of redoing one of my Bronica S2a so the chrome is
actually gold plated, sort of like the gold Hasselblads (the ones with
the $25,000+ solid gold price ;-). Caveat emptor, but interesting idea
;-)!
Notes: Need to get flat black inside a camera or lens project? Investigate
Kodak #4 brushing laquer, which is often used in repairing old folder
cameras.
[Ed. Note: useful cheap source for silica gel, used to keep camera
gear and film dry in storage containers etc.]
rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: [email protected] (JC17FL)
[1] Re: Silica gel source?
Date: Thu Jan 22 1998
Re: Silica gel source?
Try Wal-Mart - Crafts & Dried Flower dept.
$8.98 for a 2 pound jug with color indicating crystals.
Joseph.
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998
To: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: I Need a good camera bag. - unstealable diaper bag option
Okay, now I know all you macho camera guys types are going to get a laugh
out of this, but you won't after somebody steals your camera bag, primo
nikon F3 and backup FE, prime lenses and AI zooms, and that stuff because
you had a $150 camera bag, breaking your truck window, as happened to me
one of the photo tips pages on the web had a woman who suggested using a
diaper bag for a camera bag. She noted the bag is good sized, very cheap,
very sturdily built to hold bottles which can be used to hold lenses just
as well, and well padded to prevent breaking bottles, straps designed to
be easy to carry for long periods of time, usually water (actually more
like wee-wee) proof, and most important of all, no thief in their right
mind is going to steal a bag they think contains smelly used diapers full
of baby crap. Hey, no arguments with her logic here.
They also sell padded, waterproof, zipper topped, strap handled bags with
retainers for six lenses (err, bottles) for under $8 in our local drug store.
You can probably do better at garage sales, but you probably can't buy a
replacement strap for most camera bags at this price off the shelf
so far, no reports of anybody ever stealing one too ;-) ;-)
regards bobm
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998
From: Joe Sutherland [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan
Subject: Re: I Need a good camera
bag. - unstealable diaper bag option
I too use a diaper bag to hold my
"car camera outfit", which stays in
my
car all the time. No one has
stolen it, but now you've let the
cat out
of the bag (so to speak). ;)
[Ed. note: the principles of backups, divide and conquer, and don't use
bags that shout ''STEAL-ME'' applies to 6x6 as well as 35mm...]
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998
To: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: THEFT PREVENTION IDEAS PLEASE.
I had major loss of F3/FE plus lenses flash etc stolen during dive trip
Cameras were in a nice bag. Now I have not so nice bags. My favorite is a
diaper bag - nicely padded, very sturdy, meant for long haul carrying,
waterproof (wee-wee proof too ;-) and nobody would steal a bag full of
dirty diapers. The bottle holders also hold lenses nicely. very cheap,
esp pre-beat up bags at yard sales.
I usually carry my nikkormat around the neck rather than my NIKON - as
thieves know the big names. Some folks coverup these well known logos.
I also usually mount my worst and cheapest optically 28-210mm kiron zoom.
If the camera is cut or grabbed, they aren't getting more than a $100
body and $75 used lens and a roll of film - maybe $200 with filters ;-)
I am also better setup for grab photos with the zoom, and my nikkors are
safe from running into things in a padded diaper bag - also rain and
dust
somewhat related is to divide and conquer. I now have several sets of
older camera bodies, nikkormats, with matching nikon F or F2 or FE so I
have a prime professional camera and an older backup body.
I also try to keep a range of lenses and zooms but not take them all at
once. This is lighter, plus less loss if stolen again. Next time I get
ripped off, I will be still able to carry on with bag NUMBER 2. Handy now,
as I have an FE off being services too ;-)
keep track of serial numbers, photo equipment so police can ID better,
but chances of recover are 1.5% per stats locally. Insurance may cover
you, pays to check, consider adding, but this is an extra cost. If you
do, you might also be able to deduct losses as business related costs if
you do photo related business work. Some photo societies offer insurance
too.
forget about engraving serial numbers etc. mostly ignored by
fences/pawnshop
and individual buyers, reduces value of lenses a lot to dealers etc.
some advocate piano wire within camera strap, as esp. in europe cutting
away the strap with sharp knife is popular strategy. camera strap around
shoulder and head rather than just on shoulder - snatchable there
Actually, I prefer to run strap around top of my back, with bag in front
of me, camera strap adjusted to rest on bag, let weight rest on broad of
back, rather than around neck. Seems like it should fall, but it doesn't.
advantage vs. theft is bag is in front of you, nobody can reach in.
for high theft zones, leave big camera home or keep under coat; good time
for point and shoot, take surprisingly good photos for low $$ used.
the real danger is not taking pictures because you are afraid of losing
your camera. my solution was to use my cheapy nikkormats - and I am
surprised that I have taken more, better photos with these clunkers than
my professional F/F2s, because I carry them around more (3 times in last
week, xmas lights etc). IF you don't carry your camera out of fear of
theft then you can't make photos.
regards - bobm
[Ed. Note: Medium Format sized filters are expensive!. Here's a
tip:]
From: "Neuman - Ruether" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Quality of Filters
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998
Jane Seto wrote...
Is there a difference in quality between the various makers of filters? If
so which ones are considered to be the best.
There is much "theory" out there on this, helped along by advertising,
but the truth is that for non-critical uses, virtually any filter brand
will be OK. For fairly critical use, most any "name brand" filter will do
(uncoated, single-coated, or multi-coated...). For those of us who are nuts
about image quality, a good-quality single-coated filter with a good, thin
metal rim will do (Hoya is a good name here... [I am less fond of Tiffen
and Vivitar filters]). For those who will shoot straight into the sun
with a long tele lens used at a wide stop... (!;-}), perhaps an
expensive brand of multicoated filter may be desireable...
(though, even here, Hoya is really sufficient...;-).
--
David Ruether
http://www.fcinet.com/ruether
[email protected]
[Ed. note: 120 and 4x5 infrared film sources]
rec.photo.equipment.large-format
From: Jean-David Beyer [email protected]
Re: Infrared in LF sizes?
Date: Sat Jan 24
Kodak High Speed InfraRed
(probably 4143) is available in 4x5 from Calumet. Good
to 900 nanometers.
Konica make some in 120 size good to 750 nanometers.
--
Jean-David Beyer
Shrewsbury, New Jersey
Mercury Batteries
[Ed. note: These batteries are widely used in accessory light meters,
have recently but made illegal to sell in the U.S., but are still
available from off-shore sources]
rec.photo.equipment.misc
From: Jeff Spirer [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm,rec.photo.equipment.misc
[1] Re: Mercury batteries
Date: Fri Jan 23
Cal R.
Rasmussen wrote:
If I go Canada and buy some PX625 mercury cells, is there a way to
store them long term? Is there any penalty other than confiscation if
I am caught bringing them back into the US?
I don't think that they can be confiscated. It is not illegal to
possess or cross the border with mercury batteries. It is only illegal
to bring them in to sell.
They should last about ten years. Put them in a sealed plastic bag and
keep them in a cool, dry place. Alternatively, double seal them (two
bags) and put them in the refrigerator.
--
Jeff Spirer
[Ed. Note: Japanese Camera Price Sources - is it Greener on the Other
Side?]
From: Matthew Endo [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Canon lens prices in Tokyo
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998
Rocket61 wrote:
Can anyone tell me the current typical street price (in yen) of the EF28-70
f2.8L and EF70-200 f2.8L lenses in the Tokyo area. Also, does anyone know
what
if any other costs (duties, taxes, etc.) would be associated with bringing
these items back to the U.S.
http://www.mapgroup.com/shohin/list/canon_list.htm
doesn't show the prices, you probably have to ask them.
See my other post about where to buy a camera in japan, or look at the
links
http://www.photo.net/photo/japan-buying.html
http://speedcore.com/usr/fs/camera/jshop.html
has more advice, and personal experience about buying Canon equipment
(FWIW, I only know the Nikon prices, cause I use Nikon)
Matt
[email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica S2a shutter speed problem
From: [email protected] (E. Ray and Linda Lemar)
Date: 1998/01/18
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
I can answer a couple of your questions. If you want to test the shutter
and mirror, just remove the back and cock the shutter. The way the camera
works is that when there is a back on it, the wind lever first advances
the film. It does this by turning the geared wheel that protrudes from
the body and meshes with the gear in the back. When the film has been
advanced, the gear in the back locks and keeps the gear in the body from
turning. When the gear in the body is stopped from turning, the shutter
cocks with the remaining turning of the advance knob. When you take the
back off, the little lever to the right of the gear sticking out of the
camera back pops out and locks the gear so the advance knob just winds the
shutter. (This is the way you cock the shutter to do double exposures.)
After the shutter is cocked, you can fire the shutter with the back off or
with the back on if the darkslide is removed. The reason you have to have
the darkslide out is that little rod that sticks out of the back of the
body on the lower left side (with the camera back toward you). It is the
interlock. -- The darkslide keeps it pushed in preventing the camera from
firing. When you fire the camer, the thin rod on the lower right side of
the back flies out and pushes into the magazine releasing the film advance
so the film can be advanced.
If the camera is working correctly, you should be able to remove the back
(and leave it off) and cock the shutter. It should then fire at at all of
the shutter speeds. B is the only setting where the shutter remains open
and the mirror down. (on a Bronica S2 the mirror slides down to the bottom
during the exposure.) On all other settings, when you fire the shutter,
the lens will stop down and the mirror will drop, the shutter will open
and close after the set time, and the lens will open up and the mirror
will return to the viewing position. If this does not happen, the camera
is broken. I would worry about buying a broken camera of this age
and getting it repaired.
Is the camera an S2 or an S2A? I really don't know. Years ago in
Shutterbug I read an article that stated that bronica put the stronger
gears in the S2 a while before they officially started calling them S2A.
I don't know if this is true or not. My camera is serial #: CB 19585,
which I bought new as an S2. My serial # is not listed on
"http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronserialno.html" as an S2 or an S2A. I
know it was produced at about the time Bronical was changing from S2 to
S2A and that it was back ordered for a few months -- perhaps while they
were changing models? I don't know. I guess a camera repair shop
familiar with Bronicas would be the only way to tell for sure.
If I can be of any further help, email me ([email protected]).
Ray
[email protected] wrote:
: Hello-
:
: I am a newbie to the MF world but based upon the excellent information
: here and at the site: http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html, I
: decided to buy a S2a from a dealer.
:
: I got the camera and I am very happy that I decided to pick this one!
: However, I am experiencing a few problems.
:
: Could anyone be of assistance?
:
: Bronica Specs:
:
: Serial Number: CB89786 (body)
: CM128639 (back)
: 75mm Nikkor 2.8
: waistlevel finder
:
: -1 Is this a real S2a? Aren't they supposed to have the "S2a" as
part of
: the serial number?
:
: -2 I am not able to "shoot" (terminology?) the camera after I cock it
: unless I have film in it. I read the manuals that came with it and the
: manual online, but both references do not specify the camera HAS to
have
: film in it to shoot.
:
: The reason I am even try this is simple. The camera tests listed on the
: above mentioned site say to check the shutter speeds and aperature
: mechanisms to sticky responses, dirty leaves, oily leaves, etc. I
: thought I could do this without film. It this true or not?
:
: I am able to turn the crank winder counterclockwise with an empty film
: back, but I never hear a "click" nor does the crank just stop. The dark
: slide is not inserted (for sure), the lens and the back are mounted
: properly. I speed settinngs and aperature settings can be of any
: combination.
:
: -3 The camera only functions fully at the following speeds: 1, 2, 4, 500,
: 1000. At ANY other speed, the shutter will remain open UNTIL I change the
: speed dial to 1000. For example: -I load the back with film -I put the
: back and remove the dark slide -I set to 5.6 -I set the speed to 1000 -I
: wind the crank until the film meter reads "1" and there is a "click" -I
: shoot -everything is normal
:
: -I set the speed to 500
: -I wind the crank until the film meter reads "2" and there is a "click"
: -I shoot
: -everything is normal
:
: -I set the speed to 250 -I wind the crank until the film meter reads "3"
: and there is a "click" -I shoot -the mirror and cloth back are in the
: open position. I can't wind the film, I can't "shoot" again
until I
: change the speed setting to 1000. At the 1000 point, the cloth back and
: mirror return to their normal position. I made sure of this but shooting
: the camera at 250, 125. 60, 30, 15, and 8. I removed the back with teh
: dark slide each time and the mirror and cloth back were DOWN. Each time I
: have to change the speed setting to 1000 to get it back to the correct
: position. Positions for 1000, 500, 4, 2, 1, B, and X all function
: normally as far as I can tell.
:
: I checked the FAQs and the web sites that I could find on Bronicas and
: there doesn't seem to be information to be had.
:
: Other than this, I tested the flash PC, the X synch, the loading and
: unloading of film, the mounting and unmounting of the lenses, and a few
: other details. Pretty much everything worked great. I really like the
: Bronica! =) However, if I have a defective Bronica, I would like to know
: right away since I have 30 days to fully test it.
:
: Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem is? Any input or
: questions you have would be welcomed! Thanks in advance for any ideas
: you have.
:
: Jack
--
E. Ray Lemar [email protected]
Subject: Re: My Bronica SLR
From: "Jim Williams" [email protected]
Date: 1998/01/05
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
I own a Bronica EC-TL camera and I haven't used it for a long long time.
Being the neat freak I decided to clean my camera (big mistake) it wasn't
really dirty at all but I proceeded to clean the insides of it. (Its a
120
camera) I used canned air to blow the mirror clean but accidentally
inverted
the can and all that liquid stuff came shooting out onto the mirror! It
was
cold and white, it dried after a few seconds but left a stain mark (like
water) on the mirror. I was left with no other choice but to clean the
mirror with tissue paper and lens cleaner. I got everything off except
near
the edge there is kind of a blue haze/tinge on the edge of the mirror, I
know for sure that it is the cleaners residue and I could remove it with a
dry piece of tissue paper. However, I don't want to scratch that darn
mirror (I did put 2 tiny ones into it) Will that haze affect the
pictures?
Lots of people wonder about this, so I'll give you the good news with
maximum emphasis: NO! Scratches, residue, dirt, or *anything else* on the
reflex mirror *will not affect your pictures.* The mirror is used only to
form the image you see on the focusing screen; when you release the
shutter, it flips up (or in the case of your EC-TL, part of it flips up and
part of it flips down!) so it is completely out of the light path, and
nothing on it has any chance of affecting the image on the film.
In fact, as you've already noticed, dirt and residue on the mirror don't
even affect the viewfinder image much. They're far from the finder's plane
of focus, so they're so far out of focus as to be invisible. There's really
no reason to worry about a few specks of dust or even small scratches on
the mirror. They won't hurt a thing.
Will the scratches I put into it
affect the pictures or the value of the camera?
If it's otherwise a mint-condition collector's item, they would detract
from its value somewhat because it's no longer "mint." If it's a "good
user" camera and the scratches don't affect the viewfinder image, they
probably won't hurt its value much. And as noted above, there is NO WAY
they can affect the pictures.
Is there replacements
mirrors? Do you have suggestions on mirror cleaning/care? (I know I
should
avoid cleaning as much as possible.)
That would be my suggestion -- just leave it alone! Since a small amount of
stuff on the mirror does not affect picture quality at all and only affects
viewfinder-image quality slightly, the best thing to do is just not mess
with it. What's really important is the mirror's alignment, since if it's
out of alignment it can affect focusing accuracy -- and if you have an
accident while cleaning the mirror, it's possible to knock it out of
alignment. Another good reason to let it alone.
If I acquire an old camera with a dusty mirror, I'll brush it off *very
gently* with a camel-hair lens brush -- but that's it. These mirrors are
front-surface-coated (there's no glass to protect the metal coating; this
gives a clearer image but makes the mirror more delicate) and are very easy
to scratch.
What is the camera worth these days. I
have a 80mm f/2.8 lens, a 150mm f/3.5 lens, a 120 12 exp back and a
viewfinder that makes it into a front viewfinder camera. It is in brand
new/from factory condition.
I'd love to have an EC-TL as a stablemate to my other funky old Bronicas (I
have an S, an S-2 and an S-2a) but can't afford the asking prices I see in
the ads, which seem to average in the $700 range for a clean, working
example with one back. As a private seller you'd probably have to ask less
than "dealer prices," but it should give you a ballpark idea. The 150 lens
could bring anything from $150 on up depending condition and on whether
it's a Nikkor, Zenzanon, Komura, or whatnot.
If you want a baseline figure, you could trying buying a copy of
"Shutterbug" off the newsstand and scrutinize the ads to see what people
are asking for their old EC-TLs -- again keeping in mind that asking prices
are usually less than actual selling prices, and that dealers will offer
you less for your camera than they'd sell it for, because they need to make
money on the sale.
Then again, you could always just keep the thing! Try checking the price of
a current medium-format SLR with the same features as your EC-TL
(electronically controlled shutter, autoexposure, etc.) and you might
decide to hang onto it...
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998
From: Mike Gardner [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Roll film fogging
True enough, but it should be pointed out for someone new to MF that it
is best
to do your loading and unloading of film backs in
subdued light. I am speaking primarily about working out of doors, of
course.
On a sunny days, simply getting out of the bright
sun is sufficient.
Careless handling of the rolls in bright light could result in some edge
fogging.
A little care and common sense is sufficient. You don't need to buy
anything.
I don't mean any offense, but newcomers to a system or format will often
dream
up problems where none exist and generally make
things hard for themselves. If something is real critical to the process it
will be mentioned in instruction books or general
literature.
Just get out there and concentrate on making some photographs. Of
course, if
you don't understand something never hesitate to
ask questions.
Regards,
Mike Gardner
Buying Cameras in
Singapore Guide
From: Jack Gurner
Newsgroups: rec.photo.misc
Subject: Re: To which periodicals do you subscribe?
Date: 3 Feb 1998
For those who don't know about some of the pro publications, here is a
list with subscription info:
Professional Photographer - official pub of the PPA, monthly, $27 per
year, from PPA Publications and Events, Inc., 57 Forsyth Street NW,
Suite 1600, Atlanta, GA 30303.
Rangefinder - monthly, $18 per year, Rangefinder Publishing Co., Inc.,
PO Box 1703, 1312 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica, CA 90406.
Studio Photography & Design (was Studio Photography) - monthly, $60 per
year or free (to qualified subscribers), Studio Photography & Design,
Reader Service Center, 650 South Clark St., Chicago, IL 60605-1799.
LENS - six times a year, $14.50 per year, CPQ Colorchrome, Attn: Pat
Albritton, PO Box 8014, Cleveland, TN 37320.
infoto - six times a year, $15 per year, infoto, 2322 Lover Road,
Marcellus NY 13108-9725
If you are out of the cont. US, you may want to write for overseas rates.
There are other publications for other areas of photography, however these
are sort-of the main stream of studio publications.
Jack Gurner
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998
From: Stephen Butt [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.misc
Subject: Re: To which periodicals do you subscribe?
You might also want to add PHOTO TECHNIQUES to your list. It is
published bi-monthly by Preston Publications PO Box 585 Mt. Morris, IL
61054-7686 tel: 800-877-5410.
Regards, Stephen
Calgary, Alberta.
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.misc
Subject: Re: To which periodicals do you subscribe?
Date: 6 Feb 1998
I admit to being a subscription junkie.
Photo Life - it has very good photography & portfolios. Regular columns
that are usually quite good - by folks incl Courtney Milne. Very little
advertising. Generally an excellent mag so I subscribe. If I only got
one, this would be it.
Pop Photo - it reviews equipment in depth. Even if you don't like the
subj quality index for the lens reviews, the other data and main points
are usually worth looking at. It lists every feature and makes fairly
detailed comparisons of new cameras. Downside is that there are lots and
lots of pages of ads.
American Photo is good for American Photographs & topical
issues. I like to look at it.
From: Kevin Paul McCluskey [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Use of m-format camera in winter
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 1998
Your condensation problem can be solved the same way you stop your
refrigerated film from condensation. Wrap your camera in a water-tight
container (large ZIP-LOK, plastic container, etc) until it reaches room
temperature where water vapor won't collect on the surfaces of your
delicate Bronica.
A few hours should do the trick
I bring my Hass. 503cw out in sub-zero weather and have no problems,
provided I place it in the container PRIOR to going indoors. Can you
tell I forgot a couple of times, only to find a damp camera.
A solution to a damp camera bag are those little silica gel packets
found in packing materials. Amass them and line the bottom of your bag
to absorb any residual condensation.
[Ed. note: this may help some other 6x6 users...]
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Roll film fogging
I too agree on this. I have had some critical shoots ruined when I
inserted the dark slide on sunny days. And this was on a brand new
back. I usually will turn my back to the sun to sheild the camera
and then I cup my hand over the insert area before I insert the
slide.. After the film is out you have to be carefull with the
rools. My lab, Millers, sents out shipping canisters free. I pop
the roll in there right away and label it. I've seen rolls that can
loosen up on you over time. Another thing you need to watch for is
the end strip on the roll. If you over wind, the roll will loosen up
and some times the end strip will allow the glue down strip to slip
under the strip. Then you have to gingerly slip it out so you can
lick it and seal the roll.
wbphoto
| How to shoot a f/4 lens at f/2.8 (humor) |
|---|
From: Bob Sull [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Nikon lens magic!
In the February 1998 issue of Outdoor Photographer on page 37 there
is a Nikon ad.
It states ''I photographed the boaters here with my F5 and 300mm f/4 ED-IF
AF Nikkor lens on aperature priority at f/2.8. It was really
amazing....''
Wonder if Nikon will license the technology to shoot an f/4 lens at f/2.8?
Happy Holidays,
Bob
|
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997
From: Douglas Braun [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Does anyone know an acceptable way of scanning negatives or
transparencies on a flat-bed scanner other than buying the horribly
expensive attachment which, I've been told, doesn't work that well
anyhow. Any advice is welcome. Thanks, Daniel Alexander
A wild idea: stick the scanner on the base of an enlarger, and
project an enlarged image into it. I have no idea if it would be
bright enough, though. I guess if the image is in focus on the glass
plate of the scanner, it will be in focus on the scanned image.
Doug Braun
[Ed. note: film flatness is a potential problem on both 35mm and 6x6 film
spools]
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected]
[1] Film spacing problem solved. Was it Fuji NHG 800 spools?
Date: Tue Feb 10 00:53:23 CST 1998
I own a Kiev 60 120 SLR and hav gotten used to film frames that
consistently "kiss" at their edges and had assumd that this was because
Soviet block film had a thicker base than western film.
Just shot a job with Kodak PPF (typical lack of spacing) mixed with one
roll
of Fuji NHG 800 with the new "leader grabber" tab inside the spool.
The fuji negs were the only ones with "normal" frame spacing!!!
A Fuji tech rep at a live seminar said that many pros skip the first
frame on
120 film due to the potential lack of film flatness....but I never
expected
the radical difference in framing with the Kiev.
User comments with this new film spool idea (especially with the
Kiev 60's/88's) gratly appreciated.
Wayne Catalano 504-271-1507 (Voice and Fax)/e-mail: [email protected]
[Ed. note: just a reminder than you can use a body cap with a tiny hole
for pinhole photography. The latest March 1998 Shutterbug issue shows an
article by Tom Fuller with a super-tele pinhole camera based around a
really long cardboard tube. A cover for a Bronica back with a pinhole in
front and a removable dark slide at the back might make a dandy superwide
pinhole camera too. Just another photo-possibility for Bronica
users...]
rec.photo.equipment.large-format
From: [email protected] (John Stewart)
[1] Re: info on pinholes
Date: Thu Feb 12 1998
The folks at Calumet are now offering laser pinhole body caps for popular
cameras (MF and 35mm). You might be able to stick one on the front of a
lens
board AND use it on another camera. $29.95 and UP. I'm getting the
Leica M
one for (!!!) $44.95. Duh, I must be nuts. 30mm f/128. I'll see
what it
covers on my Speed Graphic!
John
From: Philip Quaife [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica EC/TL
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998
Leon van Batenburg wrote:
I want to buy some used equipment, to start with medium-format. Could
anyone please give me some advice here? Are this camera and these lenses a good
choice?
Bronica EC/TL
NIKKOR P 2.8/75 mm
NIKKOR O.C. 2.8/50 mm
Thanks in advance! Leon
The lenses are very good, I have both plus the 135mm and 200mm. The 75mm
suffers from flare if pointed at a strong point light source more than
the other Nikkor lenses I have in this series. I don't have the EC/TL
but I have read that it can suffer from misalignment of the split mirror
system it uses. I use an S2A which does not have a split mirror.
From: [email protected] (E. Ray and Linda Lemar)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica EC/TL
Date: 13 Feb 1998
Leon:
Are you sure that you really get flare on the film. I have an S2 and have
found that when you look through the viewfinder, you see what looks like
bad flare from the 75mm lens when there is a bright light above the field
of view. I haven't used the camera for some time, but I seem to remember
that the flare did not appear on the film. I think it may be an artifact
due to the fact that the bare rear element sticks so far into the body.
I think that the light from the light source strikes the mirror and than
hits the rear surface of the lens causing the look of flare in the
viewfinder. I just did a quick check by putting a piece of ground glass
in place of the back and the "flare" I saw in the viewfinder did not seem
to appear on the ground glass placed on the back. What you do see is the
bright light imaged on the baffle that covers the mirror when the shutter
is open. This could lead to flare, but it would be "body flare" and not
lens flare. Of course if the lens has a smaller circle of coverage (or if
a really good lens hood is used, there would be less stray light to bounce
around.
I guess what I am saying is that you cannot always tell if there is going
to be flare by just looking through the viewfinder.
Ray
--
E. Ray Lemar [email protected]
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998
From: Mick Doe [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica User listing
Robert,
Thanks for your advice. Here is some information about lenses, some of
which are not in your listing:
My recently acquired ECTL came with a Zenzanon MC 75mm f2.8 (serial
number 752325). Also listed in the User Guide as alternative standard
lenses were:
Nikkor 75 2.8 PC
Nikkor 75 2.8 HC
Zenzanon 80 2.4
I have a review (in Amateur Photographer, November 1978) of the
newly released Bronica ECII which describes the standard lens as a
Zenzanon MC
80mm 2.8 by Carl Zeiss Jena DDR. Performance of the lens was described as
very good in all respects.
One obvious reason for the incompatibility between S2a and EC/ECTL
tilt/shift bellows. is the layout of the base of each of these cameras.
As far as I can see from photos, the bellows for the S2a has a circular
recess which mates with the circular protrusion on the underside of the
S2a. The EC/ECTL however, has a more or less flat base with three small
holes aranged in a triangle. The EC/ECTL bellows has three studs which
locate in these holes. Is there any other incompatibility - eg in the
way it mounts in the lens mounting of the camera?
Aparently, these bellows allow infinity focussing. I would like to be
able to use these bellows in landscape work, using tilt to get
foreground and background in focus. This would require tilt to be set at
or near infinity focussing. Does anybody know whether this can be done?
Thanks for the excellent web site.
Regards,
Mick.
Shutterbug's Editor - Bob Shell - on Bronica S2A..
"Somehow (I no longer recall just how or where), I found a Bronica S2A
outfit and managed to
scrape up the money to buy it. The outfit consisted of a camera body,
two 120/220 film
magazines, the 75mm Nikkor normal lens, a 40mm Nikkor wide angle, a
bellows with front
movements, and some other odds and ends. Among the odds and ends was a
blank lensboard
for the bellows, so I was able to adapt my 210mm view camera lens for use
on the Bronica and
did not need to buy a telephoto lens. I added a 45 degree prism finder
since I have never been
comfortable with a "waist level" finder. This system was my constant
companion for several years,
and those Nikkor lenses were really top notch. Today, I still sell images
shot with this system on
both E-3 and E-4 Ektachromes. The old Ektachromes have faded quite a bit
so I have to tweak
them in Photoshop, but the sharpness of those lenses is still up to the
highest of today's
standards."
Bob Shell- Medium Format Musings January 1997
Shutterbug p. 18-19.
From: Lisa Horton "Geek"@GatorGames.Com
[1] Re: Bronica S2 worthwhile??
Date: Thu Apr 02
Scott,
The S2 cameras are good cameras, if old. Being so old, the only real
source of parts is other cannibalized S2's. 6x6 backs are plentiful and
cheap, 6x4.5 backs are around, polaroid backs are almost impossible to
find. The lenses are good, and commonly available. Since the S2 has a
focal plane shutter, the lenses are cheap compared to most MF systems.
Prices are very reasonable for the whole system, with the exception of
the very rare polaroid back. Get a copy of Shutterbug and check the
used camera dealer ads for an idea of the prices. And yes, you can
mount a prism. There are two, a 90' and a 45'. The 90' is
substantially darker than the 45', the 45' is lighter. Both are
basically massively heavy.
Lisa Horton
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: "David Foy" (invalid address)
[1] Re: Bronica S2 worthwhile??
Date: Fri Apr 03 11:43:20 CST 1998
Be sure you know if it can do what you want. For example, it has a focal
plane shutter, so flash synch isn't as flexible as it would be with a
leaf-shutter camera (although you can get a leaf shutter lens for the
Bronica S).
I used an S2A for several years and thought it was wonderful. Wish I still
had it. The S2's film-winding gears were soft and prone to premature wear or
breaking. The S2A had hardened gears. Some S2's were retrofitted with
hardened gears.
scott crenshaw wrote in message [email protected]...
>Hi, I'm currently looking to buy a Bronica s2 as a replacement for my
>yashicamat 124g. Are the cameras any good, can you find parts for them,
>what about backs and lenses, and about what price range do they usually
>run??
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Derek Zeanah)
[1] Re: Q:Story of Zenza Bronica ETR
Date: Thu Apr 09 19:51:51 CDT 1998
>is the old ZB ETR a bargain?, or is there any drawback?
>Unfortunately I don't know how the history of
>ETR evolved. I found several complete MF systems with
>light meter prism and grip for US$ 600, which I really consider
>an ideal means for sincerely entering MF.
The ETR is a 645 camera with interchangeable lenses, backs,
and finders. It uses leaf-shutter lenses that are
electronically controlled, giving you flash sync at all
shutter speeds.
The ETR was the first, folowed by the ETRS (minor changes,
but would activate the meter prism by depressing the shutter
button, rather than just by having its own button), ETRC
(did not offer interchangeable backs, just inserts), and
finally the ETRSi (offers mirror-lock-up, TTL/OTF flash
metering). Lenses have changed some too: in general the
newer (PE) lenses are better (read: better contrast,
sharper) than the older lenses they replaced. The exception
seems to be with the 150mm lenses, which IMHO are wonderful
in their first incarnation.
>Is there any point I have to pay special attention to,
>e.g. compatibility to new lenses etc.?
Compatability problems will probably only be with newer
accessories -- I don't think the old Winder E will mount to
an ETRSi without modification, for instance. In general
though, accessories swap freely.
I used one professionally for 2 years before moving up to
square format. I found that the 150mm lenses were
incredible, and that the original ('MC') 75mm lens was
acceptable. Only lens problem I have is that the negative
seems to include a touch more information than I'm seeing in
the viewfinder; the "extra" info shows some slight falloff
with the 75mm lens (say 1/2 stop at the extreme edge) which
I think is annoying, but it's never prevented the sale of an
image (but then, I did all my own printing...)
I've also had some bad luck with getting inserts repaired --
after "repair" I had three inserts fail in the same day!
All of them were over 20 years old though, and I _finally_
found an outfit that does good work and offers a reasonable
guarantee (but boy do they charge for it).
Overall, I would rate the Bronica as a great portrait
camera. If you're on a budget then this is probably your
best option.
That said, I'm still trying to sell off the rest of my ETR
system (moved to H'blad last month). E-mail if you might
have any interest. Got some recently repaired inserts in
"as new" mechanical condition...
-----------------------------------------
Derek Zeanah, Photographer
The DK Gallery
http://www.thedkgallery.com
Atlanta, GA 404.233.1230
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (E. Ray and Linda Lemar)
[1] Re: Bronica S2a Parts Needed
Date: Sat Apr 11 22:04:05 CDT 1998
Drnogood2 ([email protected]) wrote:
: I need some parts for a Bronica S2a. The focussing screen is broken & needs
: replacement, and it doesn't have a viewe or lens ring for focussing. Any
: suggestions for sources or other suggestions?
: Regarding the viewer, should I try to get a waist level or an eye level
: viewer?
:
: I plan on going to a big swap meet in San Jose next weekend. I'm thinking I
: might pick up some of these there.
:
: Gary
:
I would get the waist level finder. The prism is heavy, dark, and
expensive.
If by "lens ring for focussing" you mean the standard helicoid focusing
mount, that may be difficult to find since it was standard equipment and I
doubt that many extra ones were made.
If your S2a is like my S2, the focus screen is just a piece of ground
glass with a fresnel lens pushed against it from below by two spring
"fingers." Any piece of ground glass of the right width and height and
about the right thickness should work (This assumes the fresnel lens in
not broken.).
To replace the ground glass, you have to remove the screws that hold the
black frame down on the ground glass. Start with the two at the side of
the frame nearest the front of the camera. I can't remember if you have to
remove the screws that secure the chrome strip on the other side of the
frame. I can't remember if the black frame just slides under it - Probably
not.
There are foam strips on the bottom of the black frame that hold the
ground glass down onto the positioning metal strips below. You may have to
remove the foam since the old foam tends to decompose. (That's why I am
familiar with the ground glass screen. I had to replace the foam so it
would push the ground glass down to the correct position.) I replaced the
foam with some foam weather strip cut to size and thickness. I glued it in
place with a contact cement.
After you remove the broken ground glass and the old foam (if necessary)
the fresnel lens can be lifted out. Be sure which side of the fresnel
lens is up so you can replace it correctly. Check the spring "fingers"
that push it up and pull them up a little if they do not seem to have
enough spring. After you have cleaned off the old foam residue and
replaced it with new foam (if necessary), replace the fresnel on the
spring "fingers", put the new ground glass (ground side down) on top and
push it down so you can get the black frame back on. Finally replace the
screws.
Note: I had to replace the foam on my S2 when I noticed that my shots were
not in focus. The foam had deteriated and the ground glass was pushed up
off of the positioning bars by the spring loaded fresnel lens. It's not
really a difficult repair if you take it slowly and observe how things are
supposed to work. Although my repair was completely successful, I cannot
guarantee that I have not left out any steps. I didn't take notes and
hopefully won't have to repeat the repair for another 30 years.
Ray
--
E. Ray Lemar [email protected]
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: dannyg1 [email protected]
[1] Re: Design Defects--Which ones do you know of?
Date: Fri May 01 20:35:00 CDT 1998
Bob,
> As an example, the early Bronica 6x6 (S/Z/C/S2) and Kowa 6
> cameras had brass gearing for advancing the film, which often became worn
> and failed in heavy pro use. In the later Bronica S2A/EC series, these
> brass gears were replaced with stainless steel.
Having done the dreaded freewheeling film advance knob repair on an S2 a
couple of times, I can tell you that you haven't written the whole story
on the above. The problem on the S2's advance shaft is that the gear is a
two piece part, with a brass shaft (connected to the wind knob and
mounted perpendicularly into a pot metal gear) - pressfit- into a
questionable metal gear. There are no 'teeth' in the press fit (It's
a round shaft forced into/through a round hole) and so, force will
seperate the two parts.
Regards,
Danny Gonzalez
From an EBAY Listing:
Bronica S2, S, C Repair Manual
Parts and service manual for Old Bronica 2 1/4 SLR's, S2, S
and C. Copied from original factory manuals on to ( 2 ) Two
Microfiche, full service manual, original was a little light so
some illustrations on the Microfiche are also light but most in
usable condition. Beside Body there is Exploded/ Assembly
Views and parts on following: Bellows, Pentaprism A,
magnifying Hood, TTL Exposure Meter, Sports Finder,
Zenzanon 150mm f2.8, Polaroid Back and other accessories.
Very nice for Repair Person, Collector or Bronica Owner.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: Philip Quaife [email protected]
[1] Re: Choice between Bronica S2a/ECTL and Mamiya C330 TLR....
Date: Fri May 29 13:46:32 CDT 1998
[email protected] wrote:
>
> Hi -
>
> I am interested in getting into medium format for nature and scenic
> photography, and some light studio / portraiture work. I have
> primarily been a Nikon 35mm user (F and F3s) and I am no stranger
> to manual focus / manual light meters etc.
>
> I am thinking about the Bronica S2a ( supposedly rugged, access to
> Bronica Zenzanon and Nikkor lenses, all mechanical) or ECTL
> (electronically controlled, aperture priority automatic - but more to
> go wrong...) on the one hand, or a Mamiya TLR C330 (decent assortment
> of lenses, bellows focusing allows lattitude).
I have a pretty good S2A system which has delivered some exceptional
results for me over the years. I own one body, two backs, and 4 lenses
(50/2.8, 75/2.8, 135/3.5 and 200/4) all Nikkors. I also have the Model
II belows that tilts and shifts with a Tominon lens mounted to it (as
the Nikkors don't allow the movements). Finaly I picked up a polaroid
back, a set of extension rings and a chimney finder. Everything was
purchased used at shows, via the NG or from mail order (KOHs). In total
I have less than $1500.- invested (I have been very lucky - 50/2.8 mint
$175, Pola. back $60.- :^).
My wifes brother's Hassy and two lenses cost almost three times as much
and a comparison of slides does not show it to be worth it (get your
flame guns ready).
The S2A does not have mirror pre-fire so a sturdy tripod and head is a
must (I use a Bogen 3021). The ECtl does have this feature. The only
thing I have heard negative about the ECtl is the misalignment of the
split mirror.
Phil
From: "Charles Marshall" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Choice between Bronica S2a/ECTL and Mamiya C330 TLR....
Date: 29 May 1998
> I am interested in getting into medium format for nature and scenic
> photography, and some light studio / portraiture work.
>
> I am thinking about the Bronica S2a ( supposedly rugged, access to
> Bronica Zenzanon and Nikkor lenses, all mechanical) or ECTL
> (electronically controlled, aperture priority automatic - but more to
> go wrong...) on the one hand, or a Mamiya TLR C330 (decent assortment
> of lenses, bellows focusing allows lattitude).
>
> Any thoughts from those more experienced with either or both systems?
>
When I made this choice I went with the Bronica ECTL. Sometimes I wish
I had gone with a current system, but as a whole I've been happy. The
ECTL offers a very wide variety of features, so you can try them all.
From a small seed a pile of stuff grows. Mirror lockup, 40mm lens, backs
can be changed, Polaroid back and built in meter are some of the features.
Needs one of the two types of bellows or closeup lenses or extension
tubes for closeups.
This is where the meter is a help though I still use a spot meter.
The Mamiya was being sold in the late 80's and I see more of them
around. Probably a sturdy camera, but awfully big for a tlr due to the
interchangeable lenses. With the built in bellows and special tripod
adapter does easy closeups. Other advantage is the same as a rangefinder
in that you see the picture as you take it.
I'd say the biggest part of the choice is how it fits in your hands and how
the viewer works for you. Try them out first.
Both are big and heavy and not understated like a Rollie tlr. All the
older and even newer cameras like these seem to have been made to be
serviced and it is expensive to do so. My two Bronica bodies have been
holding up.
There is a very good page for the Bronica that I'm sure you will get mail
about.
charles
From: Tom Fineran [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica back
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998
To shoot 220 in your 120 backs, you can try what I do.
Duct tape a piece of 120 paper to the pressure plate.
Shoot the first 12-15 frames of the 220. Wind the film
through. Feed it through (backwards) again. Shoot the
other 12-15 frames. Works like a charm. Use "Home depot"
brand Duct tape.
> > vickers3 wrote:
> > >
> > > Need some help with my new system.Can I use 220 film in the 120 back on my
> > > ETRsi ? Additionally,anyone have an ae111 view finder or a motor drive for
> > > sale ? Ed
> >
> > You cannot use 220 film in a 120 back; too much volume of film for the
> > back to hold. And I don't think you can use 120 film in a 220 back
> > either. A friend of mine had to borrow my 120 back for his SQA because
> > all he had was 220 backs, something about losing one or two frames if he
> > tried to load 120 film.
>
> I've used 120 film in a SQ-A 220 back many times without incident. You
> just have to remember not to shoot that 13th frame.
>
> Jim
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: "Mike" [email protected]
[1] Re: Adjustments on Bronica Backs?
Date: Thu Jun 04 01:49:33 CDT 1998
I service a lot of Bronica equipement. The problem your having is due
to a
weak takeup clutch spring. Once replaced the problem will be solved. I
always strip down the magazine, clean and then lube where required.
Mike
John and Christi Brose wrote
>I am wondering if anyone knows if the backs on Bronicas (SQA) in particular
>ever require adjustment? My lab has been sent me several recent rolls of
>film with their tape partially covering the first frame and said that the
>backs will periodically go out of adjustment as to how much film they
>advance to the first frame? I don't see how this could be true, but if
>anyone knows, please let me know.
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998
From: Frank and Janet Marshman [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica D, C, S, S2, S2A, EC, ECTL
I repair probably 10 to 20 focal plane Bronicas every month and to my
knowledge am the only one in the country repairing these on a regular basis.
There are several mistakes in my reading of your Bronica tips. These are
fine cameras and the reason there are so many problems repairing them is
that few repair shops ever got enough in to really become versed in the
problems they had. For the most part the repairs that I have seen done in
them are attrocious and wrong. They can still be brought up to a standard of
high quality, however there are some clutch parts that are now becoming more
difficult to obtain and will render the camera unusable. The ECTL has a
board in the metering circuit, (one of 5), that goes out and when it does it
leaves the camera dead. Bronica did correct that in the very end of their
production in a metering modification but these are not common and telling
the new design from the old is impossible without disassembling. Finially,
foam deterioration of the focusing frame and the mirror dampening plate
on
the EC/ECTL are a problem for focusing and deterioration of the sub-mirror
stop on the early EC is a problem which causes the mirror to hang.
These are the most common problems of these cameras otherwise they are quite
fine.
Frank Marshman
Camera Wiz camera repair
169B Pleasant Hill Drive
Harrisonburg, Va. 22801
1 800 471 8133
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998
From: Edward Meyers [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] new Rollei competition?
Whispers in the photo industry indicate that Yashica-Contax
may show a 120 camera in September at the Koln photokina.
One might assume that Japanese-made Zeiss lenses would be
used. Rangefinder or autofocus (maybe) or reflex? Stay
tuned in. Ed
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] new Rollei competition?
>Whispers in the photo industry indicate that Yashica-Contax
>may show a 120 camera in September at the Koln photokina.
>One might assume that Japanese-made Zeiss lenses would be
>used. Rangefinder or autofocus (maybe) or reflex? Stay
>tuned in. Ed
Ed,
I'm pretty sure this is more than a whisper, since I have spoken with
people who are making some parts of this under contract. However, I do not
think it will use Zeiss lenses. I've been wrong before and could be wrong
again, but an executive of an independent lens company has told me that his
company is making some of the lenses. I suspect that the long time
relationship between Zeiss and Hasselblad will prevent Zeiss glass from
being used, at least initially.
Yashica could do two very smart things. One, they could introduce a novel
medium format camera (645 most likely) with interchangeable lenses and
autofocus, or, two, they could reintroduce a Yashica TLR at moderate price
but with enhanced features. I'd like to see both.
Bob
[Ed. note: this post provides a guide for substituting diopters on
Bronica prisms for those of us with fading eyesight ;-) good luck!]
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (John Morley)
[1] Re: EyePiece Diopters
Date: Thu Jul 09 11:02:17 CDT 1998
Phill Davis ([email protected]) wrote:
: Hello,
: My eyes aren't as good as they used to be, I use the drugstore-type
: reading glasses. A +1.25~1.75 seem to work well depending on how close to
: my eyes the work I'm doing is.
: up, things are great.
: Therefore I wonder is there any advantage in finding a 1.(whatever)
: diopter for the prism? If my reading glasses don't do the trick, is a
: diopter going to work differently? Maybe the built-in magnifying lens is
: something on the order of a +5.0 or somesuchother?
The eyepiece of your viewfinder prism is designed to project the image of
your camera's focusing screen about 20 inches in front of your eye. This
is the normal reading distance and your eyes should be able to focus at
this distance without straining with the aid of your reading glasses.
The eyepiece lens used as standard in Bronica prisms has a strength of
-1.5 diopters. As your reading glasses are about +1.5 diopters you might
like to try replacing your camera's eyepiece with one of value 0. Depending
on which finder you use it might be possible simply to unscrew the existing
eyepiece lens and refit the rubber eyecup - at least it's worth a try.
--
John Morley ([email protected])
[Ed. note: as of 2/6/99 - these items are all sold and no longer available!
I am leaving this info here to encourage others to consider following suit...
]
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace,rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Len hacking adapter for Bronica C/S2/S2/EC available
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998
My brother-in-law has made up some aluminum caps that thread
into the 57x1mm thread on the Bronica C/S2/S2/EC focusing
mount (or Model II bellows). They have a small centering
hole and you can drill them out to mount various lenses.
Possible uses are to hold a pinhole, a fisheye adapter
(kind you mount in the door of your house), leaf shutter
lenses (for high flash synch speed), etc.
He is only making 50 of them and 37 are sold or spoken for.
The remainder are still available at the price of $15 US
plus postage. See my web page for details and photos (top link):
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker
The people who have received theirs (hi Bob :) will attest
that they are very nice.
We are also going to be making a reversing ring type
adapter. It will be a short tube with 57x1mm thread on
one end and 58x0.75mm (standard filter thread) on the
other end. This will allow you to reverse mount 35mm camera
lenses (and other lenses) for high magnification macro
applications. Use a step ring to mount lenses
with various filter sizes. The number being made hasn't
been finalized yet. Email me with an expression of interest
(send no money yet for these units).
Thanks - Greg Erker
[email protected]
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: HALP! How do you get a Bellows Mk 2 to focus at infinity?
Hi, Bob. Please post this to the NetWisdom thread:
I've just purchased a Bellows Mk 2, and it's vere nice (thank you very
much, Mr. Feely!), but I can't seem to figure out how to set it up so that
it focuses at infinity. There appears to be an aluminum extension tube of
some sort interposed between the bellows and the camera-side lens bayonet,
which I've removed and then re-attached the camera-side lens bayonet alone.
This helps a lot, but it's still not enough. I'm a bit reluctant to go
fiddling with it any more without some more guidance. Can
anyone help?
Besides posting responses here, please reply to me via direct e-mail at
[email protected]. Thanks.
rec.photo.equipment.misc
Date: Sun Jul 19 21:03:44 CDT 1998
From: Warning [email protected]
I've been having a sneaking suspiscion that a seller by the name of
zeemack has been using other aliases to bid on his own items to run the
prices up on the eBay auction.
Some of his aliases:
ztiger
zzzzzz (six z's)
bobby12
germ
If you have won a bid, and any one of the above have bid against you,
you are probably the victom of the seller bidding against you using an
alias, also known as "shilling".
Please contact eBay at [email protected] if you feel that you have
been cheated by this character.
Thanks
[email protected]
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rollei versus Hasselblad
>Hasselblad does not have an instant-return mirror. Rollei does. Ed
You know, I clean forgot that! I just never liked Hasselblad all that
much. When everyone else was using 500C Hasselblads, I was using S2A
Bronicas. Then I switched to SL66. I've never owned a Hasselblad.
I do have two Kiev 88s, though!!!!!!
Bob
Pierron
I too had a S2, and experienced the same problem. I had the backs repaired
at Camera Wiz in VA, great guy. Most of the time I would get half frames
or early end of roll, and VERY uneven spacing between frames.
If you like Tmax, you will like Ilford B&W, or Fuji B&w even better,
develop in Ilford ID11 developer and you will have much smoother tone,
better grain & none of the blocked highlights you get with TMinus. ;- )
Some people get really wonderful results with Tmax actually, but it's an
art, and you most likely will not get it done right at local mini labs.
Most mini labs can however develope Ilford well.
Besides, it's not worth stripping the gears in your back.
Have fun,
Eric
Pierron wrote:
> I rpurchased a Bronica S2 recently and a number o rolls of T-MAX film. In
> another talk group I read that there was a problem use the T-MAX films because
> of the thicker base. I have had some problems advancing this film, but my
> question is will this cause damage to the camera or just wasted film if I try
> to use it up.
>
> Thanks
> Phillip
> [email protected]
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998
[email protected] (Pierron) wrote:
> I purchased a Bronica S2 recently and a number o rolls of T-MAX film. In
> another talk group I read that there was a problem use the T-MAX films because
> of the thicker base. I have had some problems advancing this film, but my
> question is will this cause damage to the camera or just wasted film if I try
> to use it up.
>
> Thanks
> Phillip
> [email protected]
I've had no trouble shooting t-max thru my old bronica S which uses the same
backs as your S2.
-Joe
From: [email protected] (ERHDMD)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2
Date: 22 Jul 1998 02:43:06 GMT
The T-Max won"t cause any harm. It will take longer to wind than with
thinner films like plus-x or tri-x. However, your camera has proved
somewhat tempermental at times and will eventually have shutter problems.
This was corrected infuture Bronica cameras. I use a Bronica EC on
occasion. It uses the same lenses as The S2. Your camera is at least 30
years old. Enjoy it now but don't invest any money into it. Good luck.
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998
From: HIURA Shinsaku [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: information about Bronica
Hi,
I am a manager of Japanese mailing list, named "Nikomat-ML"
where we are talking about old Nikon.
We also love medium-format cameras with Nikkor,
Bronica and Makina67 very much.
I am very interested in your site about Bronica.
So, please feel free to use my images, or link at
http://vision.kuee.kyoto-u.ac.jp/~shinsaku/medium/medium.html
I have Bronica EC and 40mm/F4, 50mm/F3.5 and 75mm/F2.8.
you can see and compare two types of 75mm lens here.
Just a comment:
the usual 75mm standard lens, "NIKKOR-P" type,
consist of 4 groups, 5 elements.
And you know, "NIKKOR-H" type consist of
4 groups and 6 elements.
Multi-coated type is exist for each types,
"NIKKOR-P.C" and "NIKKOR-H.C".
Best regards,
Shinsaku Hiura
Kyoto University
From: [email protected] (DKFletcher)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A Opinions?
Date: 10 Aug 1998 01:19:49 GMT
I had two S2A bodys 3 backs, prism, poloroid, and 4 lenses and LOVED IT!!!
for the money it is a great buy with lenses that are unbeatable for the
money. The only lens I would try to stay from is the 75mm Nikor as I
don't think it is coated. It flairs easly. There is a MC 80mm 2.4
Zenzanon that you should ba able to find for $100.00 to $125.00. The only
other thing that I would warn you from is try to get a S2A not a S2 body.
The advance gearing is beter and there are two extra rollers in the backs
for added stability.
Good luck if you go for it, You can really get a whole lot af camera for the
money.
Dirk
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A Opinions?
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 06:20:06 GMT
I own and use an S2, and yes, the 75mm Nikor is coated. One thing you
notice when using the 75mm is alot of apparent flare if you have a bright
object (e.g. sky) outside the frame and above. This is only seen in the
viewfinder. It does not occur on the film. The reason that this occurs is
that the 75mm lens extends very far into the body (possible because the
mirror slides down and does not flip up) and light above and outside the
image area reflects off the mirror at such an angle that it strikes the
rear element of the lens and causes flair in the viewfinder. When you
actually take the photo, the mirror is out of the way and this light from
outside the image area just strikes the black cover over the mirror and
does not reflect back to the lens causing flare in the image.
Things like this can occur with any camera. The flare you see through the
viewfinder may or may not actually result in flare on the negative.
Likewise, the fact there is no flare in the viewfinder does not insure
that there will be no flare on the film. With most cameras, there is not
much difference, but with some, there is.
Ray
--
E. Ray Lemar [email protected]
From: Philip Quaife [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A Opinions?
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998
> only lens I would try to stay from is the 75mm Nikor as I don't think it is
> coated.
I have this lens and it is (single) coated. The only time I have a
problem with flair is photographing into a low sun. If the 80/2.4 is MC
it should be better though.
From: Philip Quaife [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A Opinions?
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998
I have had an S2A system for many years and it is a great tool. I have
50mm/2.8, 75mm/2.8, 135mm/3.5 and 200mm/4 Nikkor lenses, two backs,
Bellows II, extension rings, 5X chimney finder and the much sought after
polaroid back. It all works very well indeed. No problem getting this
stuff serviced either. Photography on Bald Mountain can do this (one of
the proprietors owns an S2 himself). I have hiked the Southwest with
this plus my Bogen tripod - it is rugged.
There is one disadvantage of the S2A. It does not have mirror lock. I have
never had a camera shake problem though, even at the mystical 1/8th or
1/15th second. Fuji Velvia chromes from this equipment are fabulous!!
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Bill Barton [email protected]
Subject: Response to TTL Metering Prism for the S2A and other Questions
Date: 1998-09-02
Noel, I owned one for 5 years when I had a S2a, it's not really worth
having, except to say you own one. It was a avg meter and SLOW to use. You
had a adp. that went on the shutter speed dial and then a coiled cord
from that to the meter hood, so it knew what shutter speed you were using.
It worked, but the only reason I can say to use it, is if you had a
bellows unit and did ALOT of close ups.....
Bill
From: Philip Quaife [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A vs. EC
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998
DKacir wrote:
>
> Help. Given a Bronica S2A or EC, which one would you recommend and why? I
> like the prices on the S2A, and the backs and other accessories appear to cost
> less. My concern is the lack of a mirror lock-up on the S2A. I like to do
> close-up work at slow shutter speeds for maximum depth of field. I've also
> heard that the split mirrors on the ECs have a tough time staying aligned. By
> the way, I only do photography as a hobby, so I don't subject my equipment to
> heavy [email protected]
I have used an S2A for several years and am very satisfied with the
results. I hear a lot about mirror lock but have not been able to create
a poor image that I can assign to the lack of it. I have the bellows II,
a 200 mm lens and extension rings which I have used (no, not all
together :~) with similar good results. I can't justify the cost of an
ECTL.
Phil
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Willis B. Boyce)
[1] Re: Bronica S & PS lenses difference?
Date: Sun Sep 06 02:00:53 CDT 1998
On Sat, 05 Sep 1998 11:05:22 GMT, [email protected] (John
Grey) wrote:
>Having recently bought an SQB with 80mm I am thinking about getting a
>150mm & either a 40 or 50mm.
>Does anyone have any information about the relative quality of the S
>and PS versions of these?
John,
I have not personally used any S lenses, but most people who have
weighed in on this subject say that the PS lenses are substantially
better than the S lenses. On the other hand, secondhand S lenses are
pretty inexpensive (although they're older and will tend to be more
"used" then their PS counterparts), so buy one that you can return and
give it a try.
By the way, one S lens is still available new, the 500/8 S. The 500/8
PS costs four times as much as the 500/8 S, so there must be some
difference there!
I have both the 150/4 PS and the 40/4 PS and love them both. The 40/4
has a 95mm filter thread, though, so if you like filters, it probably
wouldn't be the best thing to get. The 50/3.5 only has a 77mm thread.
Willis
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Willis B. Boyce)
[1] Re: Bronica SQ
Date: Sun Sep 06 01:50:03 CDT 1998
On 3 Sep 1998 15:09:40 GMT, [email protected] (DonConnors) wrote:
>Decent, though not elaboarate, system. It does not have a shift lens.
Indeed. I am, however, most happy with the relatively recent
introduction of the 35/3.5 fisheye and 110/4.5 1:1 macro. I wouldn't
be surprised to see a shift lens in the not-to-distant future.
Bronica seems to be investing more in the SQ line as of late.
Willis
From: "David Foy" nomail@this_address.please
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A Opinions?
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998
I used an S2A outfit for several years with zero problems. I really, really
wish I had it back. It was a fabulously usable machine with lenses that are
as good as lenses get.
From: EJ [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: re: S2A opinions?
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998
Hi
I had an S2A for quite a while. Loved it.
I got the equipment itch, and must have thought that because it was so
inexpensive , that I was somehow missing out on something better. It lead
to several years of changing systems, time wasted learning their quirks,
and thousands of dollars ( 4X5, Hass, Leica, Pentax 645), only to look
back at negatives I still have from the S2A, and wish that I had remained
satisfied with what I had. For the money, it's darn near impossible to
beat, even if it needs an occasional repair!
Heck, I know a few pro's still making a decent living using old twin lens
Mamiya for weddings and portraits. Unless you have a specific job need, or
have to have a feature specific to your shooting style, don't fall for all
the advertising hype, trying to make you believe you need better
equipment. What you need, is to shoot more!
I currently have a Pentax 645, with the 35, 75,120 macro, and 300. I don't
need interchangeable backs, but I do miss the option. It also is a great
system for the money, say compared to a Hassy, but if I had it to do all
over again, I'd have saved my money and spent it on film & travel
expenses.( You run out of things to shoot in your back yard real quick ;-)
For a great many people, the discipline of using a tripod, and the sheer
number of rolls you shoot, can make a much bigger difference in your
learning photography than all the equipment in the world.
My 2 cents.
Eric
[email protected]
From Medium Format Digest:
From: James Bemus [email protected]
Subject: Response to 50mm Nikkor for Bronica S2A
Date: 1998-08-20
I owned the Nikkor f 3.5 50mm lens with my S2 and EC camera outfit and I
couldn't find anything bad to say about it. No noticable distortion, sharp
and contrasty. I even shot quite a bit with it at night at wide apertures
and the results showed no internal reflections (good multicoating) and no
noticable flare even with bright points of light (street lamps, etc.) in
the images. I like to do 16x16 enlargements of these images shot with VPL
fine grain film, and they hold up wonderfully. Midwest Photo Exchange
seems to get these lenses on a regular basis. They are a good company to
deal with from my personal experience.
From Medium Format Digest:
From: James Bemus [email protected]
Subject: Response to WTB: Kowa 66 or Bronica S2a equipment
Date: 1998-09-09
I have owned the Bronica S2 and EC cameras and some of these lenses. I
had two S2 bodies which where great little cameras and never failed me.
The only concern I had was that the film advance mechanism seemed wobly
and it made me nervious whenever I had to count on it. But it never gave
out. The EC was delightful, very solid, but much bulkier and dependant on
a battery. Its split mirror (part goes up, and a small part flipped
backwards on the bottom of the mirror box)seems to be its weakness, as I
had trouble with mine not returning to the full rest position. I was able
to have it serviced locally and it was mostly a matter of lubrication. I
had the Nikkor 50mm f 3.5, Nikkor 75 f 2.8, and the Komura 100mm f 2.8.
The two Nikkors were great lenses. I have since owned Pentax 67 equipment
and think I got better results with the smaller format and the Nikkor
lenses. The Komura 100 mm was soft, but it made a nice portrait lens.
The S2s have a lot of mirror slap and only sync at 1/45 sec., while the EC
is very smooth and syncs at 1/60th. I owned these cameras for about five
years from 1988 to 1993 and only the EC went out on me, and it was
about five years from 1988 to 1993 and only the EC went out on me, and it was
repaired inexpensively.
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Jan Zitzmann [email protected]
Subject: Bronica EC-TL vs. S2a
Date: 1998-09-17
As photographer on a budget I found the old Bronicas EC-TL and S2a as good
alternatives to the Russian Kiev. Still - to decide between the EC-TL and the
S2a I do know too little. I'll mostly use the camera during travel or for
photography on location, so reliability, durability, weight and size are
issues
for me.
Please comment to this:
The EC-TL's built-in meter seems a good idea since I might be able to do
without taking along a handheld meter (save weight). But how reliable is the
meter, how much battery does it draw and finally: is the EC-TL lager and
heavier than the S2a?
It seems to me that there're more S2as around than EC-TLs and that they are
cheaper. Is the S2a less reliable than the EC-TL (esp w/ respect to the
sutter
speeds). To bring it to the point: Which one of the cameras is more suitable
for backpacking.
regards
Jan Zitzmann
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Werner Boeckelen [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica EC-TL vs. S2a
Date: 1998-09-21
Hallo Jan,
I own the EC-TL II, which has a little different internal electronic to the
EC-TL. The meter is a spotmeter, which I found very percise. What I think is
not optimum is the fact, that the metered exposure times are only shown
in the
automatic mode. So if you want to work manually, as you would with a
spot-meter
most of the time, it is necessary, to switch between those two modes. So this
is a little inconvenient.
For backpacking, I had this camera in very sandy areas of this globe with me
(Island). The camera is really rugged. The challenge for backpackers is it's
weight (2 kg Body/Mag + 75mm). For me it was a great advantage, that my
favorite 40mm weights a lot less than i.e. the Zeiss-optic
(Hasselblad/Rollei).
I would prefer the EC-TL, not only because of the meter, but also the
possibility of a mirror-locking.
Werner
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Mahlon Haunschild [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica S2A/EC with bellows
Date: 1998-10-04
Hi, Richard.
I own an EC with the 50mm f 2.8 and 75mm f 2.8 Nikkor lenses, along
with the later Bronica type "2" bellows, and I'm afraid that, at least
in my case, the short answer to your question is "no". All of these
older Nikkor lenses protrude a significant amount into the front of
the camera body, preventing meaningful long-focus tilts/shifts.
Tilts/shifts are realistically only possible under macro focusing
conditions, where you have sufficient bellows extension to allow room
for the rear elements of the lens to clear the camera body and the
rear standard of the bellows.
Sorry to rain on your parade. Still, you might be surprised at the
close-focus capability of these lenses on an S2A. No perspective
control, of course.
Good luck. Regards...
Mahlon
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Mahlon Haunschild [email protected]
Subject: Response to 50mm Nikkor for Bronica S2A
Date: 1998-10-04
Noel, I own the later f 2.8 version of this lens. I am told that this
version is even better, and is of the same design as the contemporary
Zeiss Distagon, although I have no comparative way to assess this.
the newer version is also slightly smaller and lighter than the
earlier version (77mm filter mount, vs. 82mm on the older lens.
I use mine a LOT.
[Ed. note: more confirmation that the loud shutters on Bronica
don't cause blur or problems on film, even in the S2A w/o
mirror-lockup]
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Noel Atkisson [email protected]
Subject: Response to WIldlife and the 2 1/4 camera
Date: 1998-09-27
I use a Bronica S2A (which has no mirror lock up), same tripod, Bogen Super
Ball head, and telephoto lenses in the 200-400mm range without any apparent
blur...are you using a cable release?
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998
From: "E. Ray Lemar" [email protected]
Reply to: [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A mirror lockup?
you wrote:
: My only explanation is that the loud kerchunks you hear must be happening
: after the exposure ;-) Scares the be-jesus out of newbies, though ;-)
The first time I brought out my S2 and started playing with it in the same
room as our newly adopted 10 year old cat, I kept hearing a noise when I
fired the shutter. The cat was giving out a fearful cry everytime I fired
the shutter. I had to take the camera over to him and show him it was not
something to be frightened of before he stopped making the cry.
Ray
From: [email protected] (NSAtkiss)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A mirror lockup?
Date: 10 Oct 1998
I own a Bronica S2A which I use primarily for landscape photography... the
camera is always mounted on a tripod (Bogen 3021) , I use a shutter release
cable, and the lenses I use range from 40mm to 200mm...also the camera itself
is fairly massive and seems to absorb a considerable about of the mirror
impact.
In short, the lack of mirror lock just hasn't been a problem in any of the
photography I have done to date.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: "PH" [email protected]
[1] Re: Differance between Bronica SQ models?
Date: Sat Oct 31 16:21:22 CST 1998
If my memory is correct the list is as follows
SQ Basic camera no exposure options , no mirror lockup
SQA included contacts for meter head and had mirror lockup
SQ-AM as SQA with built in motor
SQ-Ai as SQA plus TTL flash
SQ-B budget model almost the same as the SQ
All backs, lens's and finders are interchangeable but no autoexposure with
SQ and poss SQ-B
PH
From Medium Format Digest:
From: David Hofer [email protected]
Subject: Response to S2A 50mm Lenses - advice on which one?
Date: 1998-10-25
I own a Bronica EC-TL and the lens i use is a ZENZANON 50mm f2.8
and its a great lens.I can't tell the difference from Hasselblad so i
doubt i could from nikkor 3.5,2.8 or bronica 2.8
regards;
Dave
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998
From: dartanyun [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: S2 and lens
Meant to send this last summer, but other things you know..
I have an S2 s/n cb56379 with a small modification, supposedly done by
factory auth repair. On the side above shutter dial is a small lever that
is a mirror lock up. After winding press lever and mirror drops, then when
your ready, push shutter dial and shutter operates.
Also I have a 500mm F7 Komura lens, manual, screw mount (57mm), tripod
mount, s/n 1235218. F-stops at 7/8/16/22/32/45, and a screw mount front
hood. I see you just added this to the list, thought I'd let you know there
is more than one in existence. It focuses with the regular standard mount,
but 63 ft is closest focus (physically measured).
Scott / Tacoma Wa
[Ed. note: current bronica service centers (not older S2/EC..)]
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (BandHPhoto)
[1] Bronica Service Centers
Date: Fri Nov 13 12:27:15 CST 1998
Someone posted an inquiry about Bronica Service recently. I can't find the
original, but here's the scoop as I got it from Bronica ...
Bronica warranty & repair centers
California/west coast:
Unitech Camera Repair
12611 Hiddencreek Way
Cerritos, CA 90703
(562) 404-6668 phone
(562) 404-6292 fax
Camera Tech
2308 Taraval Street
San Francisco, CA 94116
(415) 242-1700 phon e
(415) 242-1719
email: info at cameratech.com
website: www.cameratech.com
Texas:
Havel Camera Service
1102 Basse Road
San Antonio, TX 78212
(210) 735-7412 phone
(210) 734-2715
Mountain States:
Metro Camera Repair
425 Federal Blvd.
Denver, CO. 80204
(303) 934-2471 phone
(303) 935-5854
email: [email protected]
Midwest:
Mid States Camera Service
407 S. Dearborn, Suite 300
Chicago, IL 60605
(312) 939-2272 phone
(312) 939-8743 fax
South:
Greens Camera Tech., INc.
1246 Ridgewood Avenue
Holly Hill, FL 32117
(904) 257-1366 phone
(904) 258-7065 fax
Northeast:
Tamron-Bronica Service Dept.
Tamron Industries, Inc.
125 Schmitt Blvd.
Farmingdale, NY 11735
(516) 694-8700 phone
(516) 847-0364 fax
Pat Simonetti-Bronica Mgr.
Leah Moore-Tamron & Fotovix
Tech Support Dept. (in Farmingdale)
Eric Hwang-Mgr.
MaryAnn McDonald:
Customer support & questions for Tamron photo lenses; Bronica Cameras,
Fotovix. (except CCTV and Industrial Optics and Machine Vision optics.)
Andre Constantini, Traveling Tech Representative
===============================
regards,
Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video
http://www.bhphotovideo.com
[email protected]
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Mike Wilson [email protected]
Subject: Response to S2A 50mm Lenses - advice on which one?
Date: 1998-11-12
Noel, You might consider the Zenza Bronica ZENZANON MC 50mm f2.8 if
filter size is important and depending on what other lenses you have.
It's filter size is 67mm where the Nikkor f2.8 carries an 82mm filter
thread. I use the Bronica 50mm f2.8 along with Nikkor 75, 135, and
200mm lenses and they all have the same size filter thread; 67mm.
Mike Wilson - Pinson, Alabama
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Ooffy)
[1] Re: Bronica EC/TL questions
Date: Sat Nov 28 1998
Congradulation on getting one of the finest cameras made. To answer your
questions: There was a Bronica strap made fo the quick-release pins on the
camera but they are hard to find. Just so happens that Mamiya "copied" the
Bronica EC mount for their strap system for the RB67 and there are lots of
those out there.
I don't know what 50mm you have that doesn't have front filter threads.
The 50/3.5 used 82mm filters, the 50/2.8 Nikkor takes 77mm, and the 50/2.8
Zenzanon takes 67mm filters. Having had all three (still have the Nikkor
2.8 and just yesterday sold my 50/2.8 Zenzanon) I can't see how one of
them could has "lost" the front filter ring and still hold in the front
element.
The tubes were manual stop-down, and is the bellows. One note to watch for
is that there were two bellows(also manual stop-down) made for Bronica and
the one made for the ECs is slightly "taller" lens-center-to-tripod-base
to compensate for the "thicker" EC bodies.
No, that's as bright as they get - EXCEPT, you could pick up another
Bronica EC screen, carefully cut a Beattie Interscreen to fit the Bronica
frame and and "move" the litho strip with the shutter speed numbers off
the Bronica screen and glue it to the Interscreen. One note is that the
45-degree prism is brighter than the 90-degree
Good luck
Ron Bennett.
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Digest Number 573
Re: EC straps...
The EC strap lugs are the same as used on the ERT series.
Ron Bennett
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (DKTEAT)
[1] Bronica S2a question
Date: Wed Dec 02 08:12:06 CST 1998
I have heard alot about the mirror slap being a bone jarring event on these
cameras. Sound doesn't bother me (as long as it doesn't break plate glass
windows every time its fired), but vibration does.
Can someone who uses one of these cameras tell be how bad it is. I want
to use the camera for Closeup Flower Portraits (one blossom in the image,
full frame) and insects such as butterflies along with other nature
related photography. I have used Minolta 35mm for about 5 years now and
want to make the jump to MF.
Is the mirror going to create enough vibration to degrade the sharpness of
closeup images if the camera it tripod mounted in the normal fashion (without
sandbags, a 30lb tripod and other weird vibration damping items)?
I have found a mint, in the box camera, back and lens for just under $600 but
would prefer to wait if vibration is a problem with macro photography
with this setup.....
All responses Appreciated...
Don
[email protected]
Don,
I used to own an S2A years ago with the 75mm Nikkor and 45 and 150 Komura
lenses. Granted that it sounds like "slam, clunk, thud" when you snap the
shutter, but I made 40x50s from the negs. One 16x20 tight head and
shoulders shot of a fellow was the proverbial "count every whisker". It
was actually a 16x20 print, which if printed full frame, would have made a
print more than 4 feet square. Severly cropped, but good Excellent
camera.
The camera has one advantage of using any of its lenses with the bellows
which has a swing and shift ability.
...
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: Philip Quaife
[1] Re: Bronica S2a question
Date: Fri Dec 04 16:00:21 CST 1998
I have an S2A and the Bellows II (with tilt and shift). The S2A is
noisey but I have yet to see a slide from mine that has camera shake
evident. The mirror moves down whereas the shutter moves up. I don't
know if this has anything to do with it though. I always use a sturdey
tripod and head.
From: Al Dupuis [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2a question
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998
DKTEAT wrote:
> I have heard alot about the mirror slap being a bone jarring event on these
> cameras. Sound doesn't bother me (as long as it doesn't break plate glass
> windows every time its fired), but vibration does.
>
> Can someone who uses one of these cameras tell be how bad it is.
...
I've only had my S2A for 2 rolls of film, and for those rolls I used it
with an old, flimsy tripod and no cable release. All pictures were of
flowers in my back yard, and they came out very sharp with wonderful color
saturation. It seems to make NO difference with image quality, so it must
be introducing vibrations at a non-critical time, or the vibrations must
be sufficiently dampened. I don't find the noise of the shutter to be a
problem. At this point though, I don't have any macro photography
experience with it.
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Steve Zitelli [email protected]
Subject: Bronica S2
Date: 1998-11-30
I'm thinking about upgarding to a Hasselbald 500CM. Is the quality of
the images that much better to justify the cost of the Hasselbald?
I'll be going from a camera with two lenses and two backs to a
camera,one lens and a back so I want to make sure it is worth it.If I
buy the Hasselbald I need to sell my Bronica to finance the
Hasselbald.I have a body with two backs,75 + 50 lens all in very good
cond..What would be fair market value?
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Don Feinberg [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica S2
Date: 1998-11-30
Can I be just a little bit of a "wet blanket"?
You already have a great camera. Don't get into debt for another
camera -- unless you really *need* to do so.
Why don't you put the money you do have to much better use by going
out and getting some photos instead of worrying whether the Hassy is
1.5% or 2% better? They are both good, solid cameras. They both
have their adherents and their critics. So what?
(And, it's a Hasselblad, not a Hasselbald, btw.)
Don Feinberg
[email protected]
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Craig Shearman [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica S2
Date: 1998-11-30
I agree that you should stick with what you have unless there's a
reason to change. The Hassy lenses might arguably be somewhat sharper,
but not so much that anyone other than another photographer is ever
going to be able to tell the difference. Put you money into another
lens, perhaps a 150 or so for portraits. I would only trade if I were
in one of the following situations: 1) The camera body is broken or
unreliable and you have to buy a new camera anyhow 2) The lenses are
mechanically in bad shape or badly scratched, etc., so you have to buy
new lenses anyhow 3) The equipment works fine for the most part but
isn't 100 percent reliable and you're moving into a field like
weddings where you have to have a reliable camera system.
I personally shoot with a Yashicamat 124-G, a Nikon F2, a Nikon FM and
a Canonet GIII QL17 and previously used several Mamiya TLRs, so I
don't worry about having the latest or most expensive.
Craig Shearman
www.bcity.com/redcaboosevideo/
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Steve Zitelli [email protected]
Subject: Bronica S2 50mm
Date: 1998-11-30
Another question about the S2.I have a 50 f2.8,that doesn't seem to
focus that sharp at infinity.When I brought the lens years ago I
brought only the lens not the focusing barrel I'm using the 75 barrel
that came with the camera.Did the 50 come with its own focusing barrel
I thought all the lenses worked with the same barrel.If not so what
lenses work with the 75 barrel?Also sometimes it doesn't adavnce
properly and I get a sometimes interesting but unwanted double
exposure.I do use t-max and thanks, to the digest I just found out
about the thickness problem but I believe it also happens with
fugichrome.
(p.s. from my other question I know how to spell hasselblad I just
can't type)
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Mike Wilson [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica S2 50mm
Date: 1998-11-30
Hi Steve:
Have you checked the foam seal under the metal frame that holds the
ground glass firmly against the frano. If that foam is deteriorating,
it will be in the process of becomming a sticky goo and will allow the
ground glass to ride up, away from its possition on the springs and
the frano. this will change its plane of focus, that is the length to
the ground glass is different than the length to the film plane and
what you think is well focused on the glass, is not on the film. just
a thought.
I'm not a pro but I have replaced the foam on my S2A and it works
well. It's fairly easy to do, if you need to.
Mike Wilson - Pinson, Alabama
[Ed. note: can anyone help shed some light on these questions? Thanks!!]
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Cc: Shinsaku Hiura [email protected]
Subject: msg. traffic on Bronica Type 2 Bellows adaptability
Hi, Bob.
Shinsaku and I exchanged some messages on the subject of fitting a Type 2
bellows up to an EC, which I thought you might find useful for the Web
site. I can send some pics of this situation, if you wish. Perhaps
someone out there can tell us the purpose of those two plastic spacers when
the bellows is used with an S2/S2A?
Note that the mystery of the 15mm aluminum spacer is STILL unsolved. If
anyone else can shed some light on this, that would be great. Also, note
that it is not possible to focus the Type 2 bellows to infinity, with or
without the spacer. It simply takes up too much room.
Regards (and still looking for that mythical 45 degree EC prism and the
elusive EC type "C" screen),
Mahlon
Hello,
Thank you for seeing my site.
> I have seen your Web site, and have noticed that you seem to be able to fit
> a Type 2 Bellows onto a Bronica EC body. I cannot seem to do this, because
> the camera base plate on my bellows is apparently different from yours.
Yes, right, my shift/tilt bellows is for S2A camera.
That bellows has the camera mounting plate with circular
hole which will fit to S2.
I heard that the bellows for EC is the other product.
> Mine has an additional plate on top of the carriage, with a circular hole
> in the middle of the plate surrounding the mounting screw, which
> effectively recesses the screw into the plate so that it barely engages the
> body. If I remove this plate, two spacers at the rear of the carriage
> interfere with the bottom of the camera film back.
OK, I suppose that the the two spacers are made of white plastics.
It is simply inserted to the plate.
If so, that parts can be pulled out by pushing it from the bottom side.
Then, attach the front-side two screws which was used to fix the plate,
so they will just fit to the alignment holes of the EC camera.
> I am starting to think that there were two versions of the Type 2 bellows
> made; one for the S-series cameras, and a second version for the EC
> cameras. Can you help me with this?
I think it is right.
The shutter-release button of the EC is a little longer than the
S2 camera, and the bellows for S2 will push the release button
everytime. I think some problems are exist: one problem is the
locked advance lever. If you take the photo by EC, you can advance
the film after you retern the release button. The bellows may be
work as that situation.
The second problem is the electronic contact. EC camera has
a "half-press contact" at the shutter-release button,
which relaseses the inter-locking feature when the buttery is gone.
(the shutter of the EC camera can not be released when the battery
is gone, except the Bulb setting. The weak-pressing of the shutter
button will turn-on the electricity, so if you attach the
bellows for a long time, the battery will become empty.)
I hope it helps you.
Please feel free to contact me again.
<>P>
Regards,
Shinsaku
Andersen Consulting
PI&E CDS Enablement Services Group
Mahlon R. Haunschild, Northbrook, 71 / 43655
10/17/98 08:54 AM
To: HIURA Shinsaku [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica Type 2 Bellows
Hello, Shinsaku.
Thank you very much for your message. When I arrived home last night, I
immediately examined the bellows. I had suspected that removing the plate
was part of the solution, but I had thought that the two spacers were made
out of aluminum (mine are gray in color) and riveted into the plate. I
quickly discovered that they simply pushed out of the plate! The EC body
fits up to the bellows carriage quite nicely now.
I didn't mention this in my earlier message, but my bellows has an aluminum
spacer between the camera bayonet and the rear bellows standard, which
leaves 15mm of space between the shutter release button on the camera and
the shutter release lever on the back of the rear bellows standard. So, I
don't have the shutter release problem you mentioned, but because of the
spacer I also have 15mm of lost focusing motion. It is possible to remove
the spacer ring and re-install the bayonet directly into the bellows
standard, which causes the shutter release button problems that you
mentioned. Does your bellows have one of these rings, too?
I can send some pictures of this, if you are interested.
Regards,
Mahlon
HIURA Shinsaku [email protected]
10/20/98 01:22 AM GMT
To: Mahlon R. Haunschild
cc: HIURA Shinsaku [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica Type 2 Bellows
Hello,
> Thank you very much for your message. When I arrived home last night, I
> immediately examined the bellows. I had suspected that removing the plate
> was part of the solution, but I had thought that the two spacers were made
> out of aluminum (mine are gray in color) and riveted into the plate. I
> quickly discovered that they simply pushed out of the plate! The EC body
> fits up to the bellows carriage quite nicely now.
It is good. Do not lose these parts.
> I didn't mention this in my earlier message, but my bellows has an aluminum
> spacer between the camera bayonet and the rear bellows standard, which
> leaves 15mm of space between the shutter release button on the camera and
> the shutter release lever on the back of the rear bellows standard. So, I
> don't have the shutter release problem you mentioned, but because of the
> spacer I also have 15mm of lost focusing motion. It is possible to remove
> the spacer ring and re-install the bayonet directly into the bellows
> standard, which causes the shutter release button problems that you
> mentioned. Does your bellows have one of these rings, too?
My bellows does not have such a spacer, and the shutter release plate
will interfare. So I bend the back plate of the bellows a little ..
It is not a smart solution, I think.
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998
From: HIURA Shinsaku [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Cc: [email protected], Shinsaku Hiura [email protected]
Subject: Re: msg. traffic on Bronica Type 2 Bellows adaptability
Dear sir,
> Shinsaku and I exchanged some messages on the subject of fitting a Type 2
> bellows up to an EC, which I thought you might find useful for the Web
> site. I can send some pics of this situation, if you wish. Perhaps
> someone out there can tell us the purpose of those two plastic spacers when
> the bellows is used with an S2/S2A?
I have an instruction book of the bellows, so I will check it
when I come back home.
> Note that the mystery of the 15mm aluminum spacer is STILL unsolved. If
> anyone else can shed some light on this, that would be great. Also, note
> that it is not possible to focus the Type 2 bellows to infinity, with or
> without the spacer. It simply takes up too much room.
As I mentiond before, my bellows is for S2/S2A, and I confirmed
it is possible to focus to infinity.. the bellows is fully folded..
but, be careful not to damage the mirror.
> Regards (and still looking for that mythical 45 degree EC prism and the
> elusive EC type "C" screen),
Oh, I have that 45 degree EC prism with its genuine case.
I will take the photo of this prism, and upload it to my site.
If you want to get it, I can sell it to you. I do not use it
so much, because it is heavy and the magnification ratio is
low.
I also know a shop who sells usual 90 degree prism in Japan.
The screen, C type, has a sprit focus aid at the center, ..
Yes, you know, EC camera came with the matte screen and the other
type of screen is very rare.
I already sold my EC and bought EC-TL. It has a "C" type screen.
But I do not have matte screen.
(it is not the same one at my site. The new one is black one)
The screen for EC-TL is different from one for EC. One for EC-TL
has the shutter-speed display area at the top side.
(and, one for EC-TL-II is also different from for EC-TL!
In addition, EC-TL and EC-TL-II has two variation,
one is the regular and the other has the reversed letterface.
The reversed screen is used with prism finder.)
For summarize,..
EC series has 25 types of screen.
A B C D E
for EC * * * * *
for EC-TL regular * * * * *
for EC-TL reverse * * * * *
for EC-TL-II regular * * * * *
for EC-TL-II reverse * * * * *
A : center - matte
B : center - micro prism, other area is matte
C : center - sprit prism, other area is matte
D : fully-matte screen
E : matte, with grid lines
----
I could not see the attached pictures at all.
What is wrong with?
Regards,
Shinsaku
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998
From: [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: Re: msg. traffic on Bronica Type 2 Bellows adaptability
Hi, Bob.
My digicam is a simple Connectix QuickCam "eyeball" which at 640 x 480 is
decent for communicating a general impression of one's ideas, but it's not
high-enough resolution to capture the details. I'll fool around with the
bellows and the camera a bit this coming weekend to see what I can capture
with the Quickcam that might be useful, but since you've also been thinking
about this a bit, can you offer some suggestions as to what to capture with
it? I was thinking that two close-ups of the bellows' camera carriage,
one
in "S2A mode" and the other in "EC mode" would be a starting point, along
with a close-up of the EC's baseplate. BTW, I've never been able to track
down any information on the mystery spacer that I have interposed between
the bellows front standard and the male bayonet. Does ANYONE have the
original instruction sheet for the Type C Bellows? The spacer is actually
OK because, if one removes it, one essentially removes the same focusing
distance that the helical focuser takes up. If I use a soft release button
screwed into the camera's shutter release button, that takes up the extra
distance between the release lever on the bellows, making everything
usable.
Recent Bronica acquisitions: a 100mm Zenzanon (intended for portraits, but
I really got it to use with the bellows to get some working distance) and
(finally!) an EC type "C" prism (and it is FAR superior to the type "A",
because I've owned both!).
Regards,
Mahlon
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998
From: Arthur Curths [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Wow! Thanks!! Re: Today I am mailing several items to you
Glad to get your note -
I can understand the e-mailer's point to a degree (re bronica prices)
since greater availability of info might increase popularity and therefore
prices - - the traditional conflict between an inter-circle of cognoscente
who already 'know' versus the 'new bunch' that want to join in - -
However, I suspect that prices are moving up also because new MF equipment
is becoming more expensive as the companies move to the automation
concepts that have taken over 35mm. For instance, I am somewhat interested
in the Pentax 67 system and it will be interesting to see the impact of
the new model that features a lot of automation, on both new equip prices
and used..
[Ed. note - thanks again to Andy for sharing these insights!]
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
From: "Andrew Y. Kim" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica sports finder
Hi there,
Included with that S2A system I told you about was a curious contraption
called the Sports Finder. I'll get around to taking some pictures of it
later, but it's like those wire "viewfinders" you see on some old cameras,
basically a couple of wire frames up front and a small frame that acts as an
eyepiece in back.
This thing bayonets into the shutter speed dial of the S2A. You flip up the
appropriate wire frame for your lens (it looks like it has 4 frames, I'd
guess for the 50mm, 75mm, 150mm, and 200mm, could be wrong, have only
checked the 75mm, will check with my 150mm later) and put your eye to the
front window.
It's beautifully made, actually incredibly solid and well made for such a
simple and inexpensive (?) device. I don't know that it is particularly
useful, since you'd still have to focus. The previous owner apparently
agreed, since mine is in mint shape in the original box with case :)
Regards,
Andy
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Q:Bronica SQA/SQB differences
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998
Other than what is listed below, the Ai has an electronic bulb shutter speed
setting. The B does not. The PS/B lens has the satin finish of the S lenses
but is identical optically. (The finish is very nice, I might add!) If the
SQ-Ai battery goes, the camera is totally dead. With the SQ-B you still get
1/500. I have spoken with an owner of the SQ-Ai and he says if you aren't
going to use the TTL flash or the bulb setting, get the SQ-B. He isn't that
enamored with his SQ-Ai body though he loves the system. (He has two other
SQ-As.) FYI he said the TTL flash isn't very accurate... Metz sensor does
much better.
I bought an SQ-B myself and love it. I had been using an SQ body for years
with PS lenses and love the results and quick handling!
From: [email protected] (AL52818)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Q:Bronica SQA/SQB differences
Date: 13 Dec 1998
SQAi has a "B" setting for time exposures, and you can use a metered
finder on it if you like. Also, the standard PS 80mm. has a time exposure
lever. It is totally dependent on battery power ( no defaulting to 1/500
if battery dies).
SQB does not have a "B" setting for time exposures, cannot use a metered
finder, the 80mm. lens that comes with it does not have a time exposure
lever, but it can shoot 1/500 speed if battery dies.
Both can use all the SQ accessories.
Good Luck !
From Medium Format Digest:
From: rolland elliott [email protected]
Subject: Using old Bronica deluxe bellows (type 2) on Pentax 67 system?
Date: 1998-12-23
Has anyone successfully used the old Bronica deluxe type 2 bellows on the
Pentax 67 camera? This bellows offers tilt and shift movements and can be
found used for quite a bargain. If so would you please inform me as the
best way to mount the camer to the bellows? Would a drilled out body cap
glued to the bellows work? Does this set up allow movements and infinity
focus when using the old Nikkor lenses and a Pentax 6x7 body?
In addition, has anyone modified the older Bronica Nikkor lenses to be
used on the Pentax 6x7 camera. The lens mount to film plane distance is
more than adequate and some of these lenses are even cheaper then used
Pentax 67 lenses.
Any insight on this matter would be appreciated. I've already read
through the great web site on these classic Bronica cameras and lenses by
? (his name escapes my memory) Loved the web site though!
Peace Rolland Elliott
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected],[email protected] (Geo)
[1] Re: MF SLR - are Bronica S or C good options?
Date: Mon Jan 11 21:18:59 CST 1999
>I also suggest you price out your entire "dream" system and compare
>against other systems. You will quickly conclude that the Bronica S2A/EC
>series cameras offer some great buys (as well as Kowa 6/66) in the medium
>format SLR system camera category.
I agree. I got a EC/TL system with 4 lenses for less than the price of 1
Hassy normal lens. That's a AE 6x6 system. The only real drawback is lack
of close focusing. To get a close head portrait you need to use 2 of the
non-auto extension tubes. Very clunky but do-able.
George Struk - Natural Light Black & White Photography
http://www.accesshub.net/naturalight
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Steve Nichols, Norwich, UK [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica SQ-B and vibration,etc.
Date: 1999-01-18
I have both a YashicaMat and an ETRS and have used a Pentax 6x7. i
don't think you will ever get close to the quiet shutter of the
Yashica. I only use a very light tripod and get absolutely stunning
images with it at 15th second or so. The ETRS goes kappow every time,
but strangely I have never seen shake. Just because it makes a lot of
noise doesn't mean the images will be blurred. The 6x7 though is a
different kettle of fish thanks to the focal plane shutter. On a
light tripod it nearly fell over! The moral? Keep your YashicaMat for
heavens sake. Invest in an ETRS or SQA (you won't regret it) but make
sure you use a good tripod and cable release.
Steve
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Mike Paton)
[1] Comments - Ambico Compendium Shade?
Date: Wed Jan 20 08:14:54 CST 1999
--
Hi,
I'm in the market for a filter system for my Bronica S2A.
Up till now I like the look of the Chromatek system.
I've just noticed B&H are selling the Ambico bellows shade
at what appears to be a very reasonable price compared with
Chromatek, HiTech, Lindahl, Sailwind et-al.
Does anyone have experience with this shade, is it worth
bothering with? One of the systems listed above would be nice
but if I can save on the shade then I might be able to buy
more filters. Cost is an issue - as always.
Please note that I will probably still use Chromatek filters so
it's the quality of the shade I am concerned about.
TIA for your advice!
Regards
Mike
From: Philip Quaife [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Medium format view camera?
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999
VizLmagic wrote:
> Anyone know of any medium format view cameras that take Polaroid backs? I
know
> about the Linhof M679 but that's a bit pricey for my needs. Thanks.
>
> [email protected]
>
> You're never too old to create refrigerator art.
>
> http://members.aol.com/vizlmagic
Yes. The Bronica S2A is a MF view camera when fitted with the Bellows
II. It offers tilt, shift and rise (no fall). I have this combo and it
works well with some lenses. I use a Tominon lens installed on a custom
adaptor (easy/cheap to make). The Bellowws II/S2A is the only MF
bellows/camera combo that I know of that allows focussing to infinity.
Phil
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Ooffy)
[1] Re: Bronica C film adv. prob
Date: Wed Feb 17 16:28:52 CST 1999
The older Bronica are excellent cameras (Models C,D & S), but they had
brass film advance gears (replace by steel gears in the S2 and S2A and a
even stronger drive system in the ECs). If they had gentle loving care,
the older Brtoncia are good cameras, but unless you are in a "collector"
mood, I stronly suggest you hold out for a S2/S2A of better yet, an EC.
They can be had for the same prices as the older C,D, S cameras.
For the full "skinny" on Bronicas, go to -
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
Good Luck
Ron Bennett
From: [email protected] (Henry Shaw)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: 6x6 for the poor
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999
OK so like everyone else I'd love to spend $4000 on my dream 'blad
but the wife would rather see me dead. 'nuff said.
So here's the dilemna...what I can afford is either a used Bronica S2
or S2A and three lenses or a used Kowa 6 and three lenses. I've never
shot with either but in firing them the Bronica feels like it has a
decided mirror slap to it. The Kowa on the other hand has a leaf
shutter and feels pretty smooth.
What I'd appreciate is a recommendation from someone familiar with
them both who can give me the goods from both sides. I'm not planning
on going professional so "the best" is more than I need right now.
Yeah I know parts are becoming a monster for both but as long as I can
buy bodies for under $300 it's less than the annual servicing on a
well used blad.
Thanks
Henry
From: [email protected] (Ooffy)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: 6x6 for the poor
Date: 5 Jan 1999
Both camera are serviceable and moderatly reliable. Between the two, I'd
recommend the Bronica on the strengh of the Nikkor lenses and a stronger
resale market.
But what I'd really suggest you look for is a Bronica EC or EC-TL. It will
run you $50-100 more than a Bronic S2, but is a MUCH stronger and more
reliable camera. It also has a unique split mirror system (lower/front
mirror goes down and upper/rear goes up) which is much quieter and
smoother than a S/S2 Bronica
Ron Bennett.
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999
From: "Andrew Y. Kim" [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: magnifier hoods...
Hi Robert,
Was playing around today and found to my delight that my Rodenstock 4x
aspherical loupe fits right into the waist-level finder hood of my S2A. If
you slide the slide-viewing skirt of the loupe up a tiny bit, the base rests
flat against the ground glass. The rubber eyecup and shielded barrel of the
loupe make for easier composition. The area of coverage is of course
limited to an approximately 46mm circle in the center, but it's a great
focusing aid with much less distortion than the built-in magnifier. Poor
man's magnifier hood (well, okay, not so cheap, but we all need a loupe...),
and better optics to boot.
Had two questions for you, though. I was looking into buying a chimney
viewer anyways, if the 5x magnifier actually allows viewing of the entire
ground glass area...is this the case? Also, I'm curious about those light
guide-lines scribed into the ground glass...are they just for reference, or
are they supposed to define the edges of the film area? They define a
square of 4cm x 4cm, while the whole ground glass is just 5cm x 5cm, so I'm
assuming the former (that they are just for guidance and the ground glass
covers less than 100% of the film area).
Cheers.
Andy
[Ed. note: 4x4cm is superslide
size;
see homebrew loupe page for ideas...]
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999
From: "Andrew Y. Kim" [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: Re: your mail
Hi Bob,
A bit more fun with S2A's... Have you played around with using a hand meter
to do pseudo-TTL on the S2A?? I took the diffuser off my Minolta Autometer
IVF and made a makeshift cover, metering from the top of the WLF "chimney".
Anyways, if I set the meter to ASA8000 (!) and use the 75mm Nikkor, I get
readings that agree with my N90s set to ASA50, ie Velvia.
Anyways, I have to play around a bit more with this to see how well it works
out, but I'd be curious to hear if other Bronica users have played around
with similar setups. Minolta sells a booster set used for taking readings
off of LF ground glass, but it's expensive!
Regards,
Andy
>sounds like you _are_ having fun - maybe too much fun! ;-)
>
>I do like the chimney finder, esp with eye-cup - much easier IMHO and
>lighter than prisms etc.
>
>the homebrew bronica page has lots of folks using the bellows with an
>amazing variety of lenses - folders on up - cheapest tilt/shift setup in
>Med Fmt, that's for sure ;-)
>
>you might also look into rangefinder attachment for focusing - it was
>popular with cameras in 50's -= cheap now, but gives you rangefinder
>benefits for light weight and easier to focus than SLR - esp with wider
>angle lenses - even 35mm SLR use benefits IMHO with my eyes anyway ;-)
>
>regards and enjoy! bobm
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999
From: croberts [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica
Thanks for a great site. The book is now well and truly out, and I've
had a lot of very good press all around the world. No negative comments
if you'll pardon the pun, and lots of ointerest shown with thanks.
Tony Hilton
Email [email protected]
[Ed. note: see link to Ian Parker on Main pages and/or Koh's Camera (in
USA) which is to stock these books starting in third week of April
1999]
From: [email protected] (Texford1)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Bronica focusing screen
Date: 24 Mar 1999
I bought Bronica GS-1 camera which came with a standard focusing screen, a
6 x 7 and 6 x 6 backs. The focusing screen is not marked for the 6 x 6 or
6 x 4.5 formats, do I need to buy a new screen with the markings, or can I
just mark the one I have, if so, how do I do that, appreciate your advise
and recommendations.
[Ed. note: see my followup note before you make these permanent cuts...]
From: [email protected] (AL52818)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica focusing screen
Date: 24 Mar 1999
Hey Tex:
I have the same system and I'll tell you what I did. You'll need
a flexible straight edge and a hobbie knife, both of which can be found at
an art supply store. Then, remove the screen, measure 1/2 cm. off each end
of the 7 cm. side, lay your straight edge down, and scribe lines into the
screen with your hobby knife. Be sure to scribe the CURVED side of the
screen ( the side facing the prism, not the mirror box. This takes care of
your 6x6 cropping lines. Then, you'll have to measure off .8 cm. off each
of the four corners of the new 6x6 crop that you've just made, and scribe
these 4 lines. If you take your time, it will come out perfect. Make your
cuts deep enough, and if you do, they will show up as black lines on the
screen. For cropping purposes, you may want to go a little more than 1/2
cm. and .8 cm..
Good Luck !
From: [email protected] (Robert Monaghan)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica focusing screen
Date: 24 Mar 1999
another possibility is to do your scribing on a thin plastic clear sheet
and put cut out pattern under prism or WLF etc. - works on many med fmt
cameras, and doesn't involve scribing your original screen (resale value?)
or making possibly permanent errors or slipped scratches on the screen ;-)
You can also highlight the screen with colors to bring out the scratches
if you are a rule of thirds person - you can have a screen cutout for
that too. Might as well, as a plastic report cover lets you put up
several formats of layovers and still have plastic left over ;-) cost is
about 29 cents for a folder cover. You can also get a light yellow cover,
incidentally, which I have found is nice for boosting contrast - sort of
like Vuarnet sunglasses...
grins bobm
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (NSAtkiss)
[1] Re: Bronica s2a medium format camera
Date: Sat May 08 22:30:18 CDT 1999
I disagree about the S2A being difficult to repair...finding a qualified
repair shop for the S2A or EC can be difficult however...I use the Camera
Wiz, and have had no problems what so ever having these cameras serviced
or repaired, and for a very resonable cost...these old Bronicas,
especially the S2A are very robust cameras and have an outstanding array
of excellant Nikkor and other lenses readily available.
Date: Thu, 13 May 1999
From: ron baker [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BRONICA] Hi I'm a new to this list
Just tring to get my feet wet in this new inviorment. I recently duped all
my Hassy equipment and am building a new system with old Bronica equipment.
I worked with the older S,S2 cameras in the 60s but was afraid of going
back to it in fear I couldn't get it repaired. When I found that service
was available there was no question that's what I would do. The results I'm
getting with the Nikors is right up there with the quality of the Zeiss
lenses.
Ron Baker
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999
From: ron baker [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Focus Problem on S2
Hi Don
Your right on track. I have relaced the foam in both of my S2's. On one of
them I modified a Hassellblad acumate screen and installed it in place of
the original screen. What a difference. I also modified a Kiev 88 45 %
metered prism to fit the S2. The combination is a knock for all types of
focusing. You can practicaly focus on black cat in a coal bin.
Ron
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 00:30:49 -0400
Subject: Re: grins, Re: Enjoy your excellent Bronica website 4-9-99
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan <[email protected]>
From: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 4-29-99
To: Robert Monaghan
I have continued to review your sensational and complex great Bronica
site and have downloaded much excellent stuff.
I continue to check it out and check links and so forth.
One recurring theme here and elsewhere is how much better the S2a is
than the S2 and C- as it apparently has beefed up wind gears that can't
be stripped. While I have a C and S-2 and have never stripped the wind
gears and have never seen a camera so damaged or heard of any broken in
that manner, it must have actually taken place for Bronica to have
changed the camera.
This gives rise to C and S-2 owners (including me) having fears that
their cameras are somehow not as good as an S2-a, which models sell for
much higher prices and are considered better.
Now, I just read a post somewhere, maybe on a newsgroup, stating
something that I had been thinking. The writer mentioned that there were
S-2 cameras that had been upgraded with S-2a gearing. It was not clear
when or why. By the factory before release or much later by the cameras'
owners?
This would seem logical as the C, S-2 and S-2a (as shown in the
diagrams in the repair text) are all basically the same camera.
Can you post something asking:
1- Does anybody know of cameras which were so upgraded?
2- Are there any Bronica repair services which have Bronica S-2a wind
gearing repair parts or some junker S-2a bodies from which they can take
these parts and can they offer a service, if this is possible at all, to
modify existing C and S-2 bodies with the S-2a wind gearing?
-----------------
Subject number two - since writing to you I modified my Bronica C,
which had deteriorated foam under the top plate that holds down the
ground glass viewing screen. This allowed the springs underneath the
ground glass to push this screen up past the infinity position. The roll
I shot before noticing this flaw was processed and all of the photos were
out of focus. I then removed the top plate, scraped off the foam and
replaced it with double strips of moleskin (adhesive backed felt). I
reintstalled the ground glass and the top plate and the moleskin held the
groundglass down gently but firmly back in its proper position. I then
shot several additional rolls of film - all shots came out in perfect
focus-
Success!!
------------------
Thought the Bronica fans out there would be interested in the above.
Best, Sam Sherman ([email protected])
[Ed. note: for your info - caveat repairer!]
From: [email protected]
Date: Fri, 21 May 1999
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #11(Leaky magazines)
Al Dupuis wrote:
>I have an S2A back that is starting to leak light. Can anyone recommend a good
>place for repair, and provide a ballpark price that I can expect to pay?
>Thanks.
I fixed my own with the light trap strips on 35mm film camister.
It does not cost you anything. Just go to a minilab, and ask.
-Remove both end of the canister and detatch the light trap strips
carefully.
(I used three canisters for a magazine.)
-Remove old light trap sponge with toothpicks, tissue and ethanol.
-Glue the light trap on the appropriate positions.
This amateur repair worked just fine for me. But I do not garantee.
Try it at your own risk.
Tak
Note: Light trap strips on the canister is wide but short. If you buy a
long
light trap sponge from someone, it might be better.
[ed. note: screen replacement info for S2a users etc.]
Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 10:02:49 EDT
Subject: Re: [BRONICA]
To: [email protected]
Terry,
I just had mine replaced by Kohs Camera and they fitted an SQ screen. It
is
about two stops brighter and cost me $100 installed and adjusted. I have
an
S2 as a backup body & I couldn't believe the how much brighter the S2A is
now.
Don
[email protected]
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999
From: [email protected]
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: they're all macros Re: [BRONICA] Any Macro Lens for the Bronica
S2A
John,
No, the bellows is fully collapsed when focused at infinity, and so has no
movements at this setting. Indeed, I believe that this is only possible with
the Type 2 bellows when mounted on an S-series body.
There appears to be two versions of the Type 2 bellows; perhaps one was
made for the S bodies, while the other was made for the EC. The
distinguishing characteristic appears to have been the presence/absence of
an aluminum spacer between the male lens mount and the bellows rear
standard, plus a slightly different camera body mount on the bellows
carriage. The spacer is required with the EC to prevent the bellows
shutter release lever from pre-loading the
body's shutter button.
"John A. Sparks" [email protected]
06/03/99 11:09 PM GMT
Please respond to [email protected]
To: "'[email protected]'" [email protected]
cc: (bcc: Mahlon R. Haunschild)
Subject: RE: they're all macros Re: [BRONICA] Any Macro Lens for the Bronica
S2A
Does the tilt/shift bellows allow any movement for distant subjects or just
for macro? Do any of the Bronica S2a lenses have extra coverage to allow
movements for distant subjects?
John Sparks
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Monaghan [SMTP:[email protected]]
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 1999 4:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: they're all macros Re: [BRONICA] Any Macro Lens for the Bronica S2A
actually, ALL the lenses for the Bronica S2a/EC are macro lenses - you
just need to mount them in the standard or better yet tilt/shift bellows.
A few Kilar-macro style lenses were made with bronica S2 mounts as
stand-alones. But since the bellows permit infinity focus and smooth
focusing to macro-range, bronica s2/s2a ads often touted this as a
singular benefit of the bronica bellows and nikkor lens system etc.
In effect, many of the standard lenses could be used as macro lenses when
on the bellows, and with the tilt/shift you could also put the plane of
sharp focus wherever you needed it on macro subjects. That's why there
aren't any specific macro lenses, they all could be used in such a setup.
RE: 62mm achromatic closeup- have you tried using it in a 67-62mm step
down ring? I will bet it would work also? you could probably check it out
by carefully putting the lens inside the rimmed 75mm lens mount with some
silicon putty (as used to mount posters and photos on walls - it is easy
to remove). I have an epoxied adapter ring sitting inside the recessed
lens shade to make it easy to mount fisheye adapters and the like,
including smaller filters than 67mm, over the f/2.8 lens. They are a bit
too far away on the 67mm filter ring mounting position IMHO. With 75mm
f/2.8 nikkor lenses costing only $50 or so, filters can cost more than a lens
incidentally, the use of a 2 element achromatic closeup lens was found in
tests to provide the highest central resolution/sharpness (versus
extension tubes and bellows and even beating macro lenses) - plus there
is no light loss or calculations needed; for nature subjects where edge
sharpness isn't an issue nor flat-field or low distortion mandated, the
achromatic closeup can yield the best bang for the buck in closeup work...
regards and good luck bobm
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999
From: Michael Buchstaller [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: they're all macros Re: [BRONICA] Any Macro Lens for the
Bronica S2A
>There appears to be two versions of the Type 2 bellows; perhaps one was made for
>the S bodies, while the other was made for the EC. The distinguishing
>characteristic appears to have been the presence/absence of an aluminum spacer
>between the male lens mount and the bellows rear standard, plus a slightly
>different camera body mount on the bellows carriage. The spacer is required
>with the EC to prevent the bellows shutter release lever from pre-loading the
>body's shutter button.
Also, the EC/EC-TL version of the bellows has a lever on the left side to
allow
the user
to trigger the built-in light meter.
-Michael Buchstaller
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999
From: S. Sherman [email protected], [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Received Bronica Grey Back
from : [email protected] �(Sam Sherman) �6-4-99
to: Robert Monaghan
Dear Bob,
Thanks for suggesting Thompson Photo Products for that Grey Bronica Back.
They were very nice on the phone and email.
When they noted they didn't have the slide for the back they dropped the
price to $60.
As a user/collector I have looked for the correct Grey Back for My S-2,
which is a very good example of that model.
Have had good use out of it and no problems over the many years I have
had it. As much as many of us have S-2A paranoia,
the S-2 if not mistreated is an equivalent camera.
When I got the back, I was surprised that while I wanted the equivalent
S-2A style 12/24 back, this was an earlier hybrid with the curtain hidden
deep inside and a latch and locking fingers different from the S-2A
backs.
Having a batch of �old Bronica dark slides, �I figured I had one for this
back (S-2A style), however it needs the "S" style slide - hard to find.
I decided to convert �(sacrifice) one of my extra Deluxe slides (heavens
don't tell the collectors!). Using tin snips and some filing I adapted
that slide to move the curtain and latch and allow the back to fit on and
off the camera. I can't be sure that its light tight, but I don't care as
I don't usually interchange loaded backs.
I would guess that there are true Grey S-2A style backs which are hard to
find. There were a few S-2A cameras made with Grey leather and a 12/24
back but have never examined one. �They must be at least as rare as S-2
models with Black leather and Chrome, and even more rare All Black S-2
models.
I really wanted an all Black S-2A and am happy to have one. They were
always rare and sold for a premium more than the regular chrome models.
As a completist, I don't like having chrome cameras with black backs or
hoods, and mixed leatherette.
Of course for photography... who cares? �But for collectors who want the
original "thing", I prefer the parts that match.
Am I alone in this? I have yet to see anyone else mention it and I see
cameras on Ebay and in Tony Hilton's book with unmatched parts. Of
course, �we have Bronica to blame. There should have been only one model
of each with the correct and
matching parts.
Anybody seen an Olive Drab military S-2 that goes with the Sun Zoom
lens??
Best,
Sam S.
From: [email protected] (GeoS)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A questions
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999
>I am seriously considering the move from 35 to MF and would like to have some
>questions answered. I am looking at a complete Bronica S2A package including a
>50, 75 and 150 for around $1200. I would like to know if the Nikkors are leaf
>shutter lenses, and if not, what is the flash synch speed of the camera? How
>are the optics of the MF Nikkors? ( I have shot 35 Nikkors for 20 years and am
>quite pleased with them!) Durabilty and reliability of the S2A?
>
I got a Bronica ECTL, 50, 75, 135, 200, extension tubes for $1000. so $1200
for a S2A outfit seems high unless it's mint. I highly recommend the ECTL.
I haven't done scientific tests but the negs are excellent in terms of
contrast & sharpness. The only drawback is lack of close focusing with the
longer lenses which would of course apply to the S2A. The extension tubes
are not auto so portraits are a bit tricky.
George Struk - Natural Light Black & White Photography
http://www.accesshub.net/naturalight
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999
From: "Rainey, William" [email protected]
Subject: RE: [BRONICA] Internet Camera Prices
Kevin,
Just kinda curious, why not convert the screen you already have to include
35mm masking lines instead of buying another? I recently had this same
situation, and after doing the (quite simple) calculations, sat down with my
focusing screen and came up with my own masking lines in a matter of a few
minutes! Temporary lines can be made with a very fine point felt-tip pen and
cleaned back up later with alcohol, or you could use drafting tape lines
(not sure what the "correct" term is, but it comes on a roll in VERY narrow
widths).
If you choose to do as I did and make a more permanent mask, then you can
use a metal straightedge and #11 X-Acto knife blade to scribe the lines on
the screen's topside. Naturally, there's no room for errors here, but it's
really an easy modification to perform, and the lines aren't as obtrusive as
they are when drawn on or taped lines are used.
If you want more specific details, just e-mail me...
--
Bill Rainey
[email protected]
Bill's Homepage
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~wrainey/index.htm
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999
From: Lance Bledsoe [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Quiet! -- Austin powers Bronica S2A
Did anyone else get a kick out of seeing Austin Powers use a Bronica S2A
for his "photo shoot" in the new "shag" movie??? Of course there were a
few minor problems like no film or flash sync cord, but I'll not dwell on
that!
Lance
..
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] lens
At 03:52 PM 7/2/99, you wrote:
>I have been using the ETRS professionally for over 15 years and am wondering if the
>new lenses (TAMRON) will have better contrast than the old zenzanians'
>
>I have 2 1/2 complete setups with both 75 and 150mm lenses and was seriously looking
>into upgrading to the sq-B or a Hassey
>
>If I do the sq It would be a major change so that's why I am wondering about the
>newer optics?
Phil, I shot Hasselblad for some time, and I can assure you the quality
of the optics are not any better than Bronica's latest offerings. I
assume you're using pre PE lenses since you said they are somewhat
older ? My PS 180 is actually sharper, and in my opinion has better
contrast and resolution than my Zeiss 150* did. I do hear the newer
Zeiss 180 is excellent though, so they're probably about equal.
Try renting PE lenses if you have access and see if that makes
a difference. Switching systems is a big step, and you may find
you don't like the Square format.
Regards,
Tim
Classic Photography
http://www.classicphoto.net
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: ron baker [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
Hi
It's about time some body stood up for the S, S2, S2A,etc. I have shot
someclose ups of flowers using a 200MM Nikkor with a bellows extended to
full extention with a one second shutter speed and could not detect any
problem even viewing the negs with a 20x lupe.
Ron
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: "Koeman, Kosta" [email protected]
Subject: RE: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
Oh boy, physics was a long time ago, but I'll give it a whirl.
First, I use a 3021 Bogen tripod with a 3447 head, which is a reasonably
heavy setup. I've had an S2A for about 9 months (love medium format!), and
I always use a cable release. I've only enlarged to 16x20, but I find the
image to be extremely sharp (but I admit I do have anything to compare it to
other than 35 mm).
But, the S2A swings the mirror pretty hard (hence the loud sound), so
let's get into the physics.
The first thing to remember is the common properties of all matter, inertia,
and the law of conservation of momentum. Remember that for every reaction
there is an equal and opposite reaction (Think of throwing a basketball high
from the chest. As you throw/release the ball, you fall back. The same
thing happens with the camera & mirror):
So here's the equation: M1v1 + M2v2 = M1v1' + M2v2'. This is simply an
approximation since the mirror does not move in one dimension. Anyhow, let
M1 equal the mass of the mirror, M2 equal the mass of the camera w/o the
mirror.
Initially both the mirror and camera are at rest (v1=v2=0). Before the
shutter opens, the mirror must get out of the way, and do so quickly! So
the mirror is released at a significant velocity (v1'). The magnitude of
the camera's velocity after release of the mirror (v2')is proportional to
the velocity of the mirror multiplied by the ratio of the mass of the mirror
divided by the mass of the camera (v2 = -v1xM1/M2).
Now comes the source of greatest vibration (my hypothesis): the mirror
stopping.
I'm not qualified to say whether the camera will have stopped vibrating by
the time the mirror has hit the bottom. I doubt it, so I'll assume it
hasn't. Back to the equation:
M1v1 + M2v2 = M1v1' + M2v2'
Due to the loud sound, we know we have an inelastic collision. Due to
debounce (metal hitting metal) the mirror and camera bounce off each other
and then forced back by the mirror's spring. The distance in which they
move apart decays pretty rapidly, but the camera vibrates for some time
while the shutter is open.
Now by using a heavier tripod you essentially add mass to the camera,
thereby reducing the amount it moves (a co-worker of mine has a brother
who's a studio photographer with a self made tripod that ways over 200 lbs.!
No surprise, since my co-worker is a Tim "the toolan" type as well).
Flimsy tripods degrade the benefit of medium format over 35 mm, but still
something is better than nothing. There are ways of weighting down tripods
that can help as well.
Someday, I'll upgrade my system, but first I plan to get years of use out of
my S2A. I think its a great starters camera. Right now I have an
engagement ring to buy, and she deserves a good one. So, just one expense
at a time....
If there are any mechanical engineers / physicists / other experts out
there, please correct any mistakes I've made.
Kosta
....
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 7-28-99
To: Al Dupuis and Bronica List Members
Good for you Al. The knocking of Bronica S2-A is sheer nonsense.
I have read that the movement of the Bronica S2-A mirror down and forward
moves towards the lens
axis, not across it as done by flip up mirrors, causing far LESS mirror
shake than in other 6x6 SLRs.
What gives the "feeling" of mirror shake is what happens "after" the
exposure - the mirror returns to its viewing position and the baffle that
covers it returns to its position behind it as the shutter curtain that
covers the groundglass rolls back to its open position. As all of this
happens after the photo is made the shake it causes does not affect the
sharpness of the image.It is a technical marvel that all of this even works
so well!
I have used Bronica S2-A, S2, C and Deluxe for years with no mirror shake
problem.
As a matter of fact I took one of my favorite photos of an old farmhouse on
a hill, which I have framed in my den, with a Bronica Deluxe, handheld, with
a Komura 300MM f5 35MM tele I adapted to it- shooting at 1/250th sec. and
the picture is perfectly sharp.
Just because one uses and likes another type of camera is no reason to knock
another piece of equipment, but it is done all of the time. I may use
Bronica S2-A and like it and not want to own Hasselblad cameras, but I
cannot knock the fine work that is done with them every day.
I have employed studio photographers who use Hassy to shoot incredible
photos for my business and I appreciate that quality, even if I don't want
to own those cameras.
- Sam Sherman
....
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: geoff/camera tech [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
...
>I'd hate to see beginners (like me) steered away from this incredible camera value
>because of non-existent problems.
The problems are not non-existent and BRONICA did take notice of these
problems in later designs.
There have been many advancements in design, both optical and mechanical
over cameras of this era. I consider them antiques in a real world. Like
driving a model A to work. Not to mention serviceability and parts issues.
A venerable beast in its day but long since eclipsed by better designs.
These mechanical dinosaurs do produce considerably more camera vibration
than a modern leaf shutter. Something akin to the hand cranked focal plane
shutters of the 4X5 press view camera era. A serious consideration for
users wanting the sharpest image possible for long exposure or extreme
high magnification in telephoto or macro.
The vibration is caused by the need for high tension springs required to
drive three curtains and a rather heavy and mechanically complex reflex
mirror pan. Two curtains for a large focal plane shutter that when it
brakes is similar to landing a 757 and one curtain that covers the inside
of the viewfinder while the exposure is taking place. All requiring a very
complex mechanical transport, mirror and shutter mechanism that is not the
least bit modular in nature from a service standpoint.
One of the more laborious mechanical camera designs I have ever seen short
of the Hasselblad 1000 or some of the older German 35mm designs like the
Contaflex, Icarex reflex or that nightmare the Retina reflex. All of which
I am sorry to say I have worked on at one time or another in my day.
From a users stand point these cameras might seem like delightful products
of a by gone art deco era. I suppose they are. It is like going for a
spin on the Queen Mary. Nice for a Sunday afternoon of reminiscence. They
are certainly not a precision imaging instrument by todays standards in a
world of photo and optical products designed, and machined to very precise
tolerances by computers, as well as optical designs not even possible
during this cameras heyday.
Best regards,
geoff/camera tech
2308 Taraval St. S.F.,CA 94116 USA
UNDERWATER PHOTO/VIDEO SALES-REPAIRS-RENTALS
Bronica western regional factory service center
(415)242-1700 Fax (415)242-1719
email: [email protected] web site: http://www.cameratech.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
I agree...the lack of mirror lock up with the S2A is way over stated..I
suspect this is primarily from non S2A users who are passing on what they've
heard..yes, I wish it had mirror lock up...but, its a fairly massive camera
and due to the mirrors unique design a significant proportion of the energy
of the mirror is transmitted along the axis of the camera and not
perpendicular to it...I have much more concern about the the big ole focal
plane shutter slapping open than the lack of mirror lock up
I do mostly landscape and nature photography, have probably run well over
1,000 roles of film thru my S2A over the years, and attribute none of many
out of focus or blurred photograph or otherwise bad photogrphs to lack of
mirror lock up...bad technique, not using a tripod when I should, and failing
eyesight maybe.
Noel Atkisson
Houston, TX
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
hmm..I guess by your lengthy discussion of the shortcomings of mechanical
dinasaurs the all mechanical Hassi's should be relegated to the trash
heap of
photographic history too...I personnaly prefer the all mechanical S2A for
some types of photography, its a pleasure to use and forces me to think and
compose rather than just push buttons.. (and yes I do own an assortment of
Nikon 35mm electronic shutter automatic doodad cameras, which i use regularly
and enjoy tremendously)...and yes, the S2A does have a relatively complex
design which was forced on it by the lenses available at the time...BUT, its
a very durable and reliable camera and built like a tank...in the 20
years or
so I've owned mine, its been as or more reliable than any other camera I've
owned..and if serviced by a qualified shop (keyword:qualified..i.e. the
Camera Wiz) should should keep on shooting for many more years.
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 7-28-99
To: Bronica List Members
While mirror lock up has been around for a long time, and I have both 35MM
and 6x6 SLRs, with that feature I have never used it and never needed it. I
have never had a mirror vibration problem that a tripod or solid hand
holding could not cure. I have taken reasonably sharp hand held photos down
to 1/8 second too.
The one thing I am positive of is the paranoia in the photographic field -
and I am as much to blame in that areas as the next one. The sharper lens,
steadier camera, better made equipment, flatter film plane, better film
etc.. Sure all of these things exist to some degree but how large are most
photos blown up to, unless one specializes in murals?
I am amazed at the reasonably sharp photos that have been made with old box
cameras and scale focusing folding cameras, with no modern aids or high
quality.
When I was a magazine editor/interviewer I was interviewing the late
Broadway/Film actor Robert Allen. I planned to take some photos of him
when my camera's shutter jammed. He offered me the use of his ancient
Contax I with uncoated 50MM Zeiss f1.5 lens.
Using Tri-X and the light from a table lamp I shot a series of portraits
of him hand held at 1/25 sec. and wide open at f1.5. I had no meter so I
guessed exposure then had the film inspection- developed at a custom lab.
The 8x10s came out so good that we ran one photo full page on the inside
front cover. Those photos should have been a mess, but it proved to me
that in photography anything is possible.
- Sam Sherman
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 7-28-99
to: Geoff/Camera Tech and Bronica List Members
Re- Bronica S2A service - Camera Wiz, Ken Ruth, Koh's Cameras and others in
the USA alone seem to have no problem in servicing classic Bronica S2-A.
These cameras will be working when the modern lightweight designs will long
be in the trash. Providing that the focal plane models are given proper
treatment and regular cleaning and lubrication. Yes, they are overly
complex, but they do work!
The S2A and its focal plane shutter cousins will also allow for the
adaptation of a wide range of their own lenses and lenses and optics of all
kinds for special purposes and low cost that can be adapted to them. The
leaf shutter cameras are stuck with the lenses made for them only. And,
while it is possible to live with finder blackout in Hasselblad and leaf
shutter Bronicas, there is a definite advantage to an instant return mirror,
or all modern SLRs would not have one. The only reason that leaf shutter
Bronicas and Hasselblad leaf shutter cameras don't have instant return
mirrors is that engineering that design would be even more complex than an
S2A. The current cameras with their finder blackout, regardless of their
other features, are no more modern in approach than the 1936 Primarflex with
its finder blackout that all of these 6x6 SLRs are copied from.
And, why should this be adversarial??
It is possible to own classic focal plane Bronicas for their advantages and
modern leaf shutter Bronicas for their advantages. When you need a camera
for a purpose you buy one. Who owns just one camera?
For those just starting in the medium format field and graduating from 35MM
the Bronica S2A is an unbeatable bargain in the $300 to $550 range with
Normal Nikkor lens and further Nikkor lenses available. They are far
superior values than their only competitors at that price range the Kiev 88.
- Sam Sherman
....
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
I agree...it would be nice to go out every couple of years and replace
everything with the latest and "best", but as long as it does what I want it
too and works, why bother..and on the issue of older lenses, IMHO some
(and I
repeat some) of the S/EC series lenses still compare very favorably with
newer lenses from any manufacturer, and at a fraction of the price...this I
might add, greatly irritates several of my Hassleblad shooting friends
who jump at cringe when that mirror slaps down and shakes the earth.
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: "Michael D. Wilson" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
Well I'll tell ya. I love my S2A. I've managed to put together a pretty
nice outfit; S2A, 50mm Zenza, 75, 135, and 200mm Nikkors, 45 degree prism
finder, two 120/220 backs and all with 67mm filter thread size, and I've
got less in the bundle than it would cost to buy one lens in the new
stuff, and it makes beautiful pictures. I kinda like that big ole "Tha
Wak" sound of the mirror and shutter.
Mike Wilson
Pinson, Alabama
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
Same here..I've got a Nikkor 50mm, 75mm, 200mm, and Bronica 200mm lenses
as well as an extension ring set and 2x teleconvertor....45 degree
viewfinder and TTL meter ..three back
with 2 extra inserts..and I'm trying out a Bronica 80mm f2.4 MC..and prob
a few other odds and ends I can't think of now..I normally use a handheld
or zoom meter, but I recently picked up a CDS battery powered clip on
meter which I attach to the square lense hood with a little Hassleblad
attachment I picked up..works great.
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2 and S2a
Date: 30 Jul 1999
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 7-29-99
I have had a Bronica S-2 for over 15 years with no problems - winds extremely
smooth and works well. I don't abuse the wind or the camera.
I also have S-2A and have had a few of them.
I read that there are 140 internal changes from S-2 to S-2A - I find this
hard
to believe. Modern Photography some years back opened and tested the
differences, which they stated were - stronger wind gears of harder
metal. A
wind lock that locked on three large teeth rather than many smaller ones. A
slip clutch at the end of the wind if one keeps cranking the wind slips and
does not destroy the gearing. I cannot think of other changes.
The appearance is very similar, however, S-2 Cameras mostly came out with
grey
leather & chrome trim, although they did make models (more rare) with black
leather and chrome trim or all black trim.
S-2A mainly have black leather and chrome trim, although also all black
models were made and a few with grey leather and chrome trim.
S-2A early models have S-2A in the serial numbers, while later models
dropped
this in the serial numbers but took the "wings" off the strap lugs so
that they
look like the EC strap lugs.
The wind knob is more angled (closer to 45 degrees) in S-2, while the
S-2A has
a more conical or straighter wind knob.
However, I have heard that some later model S-2 cameras were improved by the
factory with S-2A wind gears and there is no external way of telling this.
Repair services also had S-2A wind parts and some converted S-2 cameras
to S-2A
gearing.
In both types of cameras the foam in the finder frame deteriorates and
changes
the focus point. This foam must be replaced on all these old cameras - it is
their one weak point and relatively easy for a technician to change.
See Bob Monaghan's Bronica website for information on the above.
Both models are good cameras, but you will feel more confident with an
S-2A, if
it is only psychological. You can find the Bronica website by searching
Bronica
on Infoseek as I forget the URL.
- Sam Sherman
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] how to adjust the screen?
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 9-10-99
to: Bronica List-
To tell the obvious external difference between Bronica S-2 and S-2A (all
versions of both) it is only possible to note the difference in the Main
Wind Knob.
On the S-2 the knob is very angled in to the center shaft. On the S-2A the
knob is less angled or more conical.
I have heard that there were 140 changes made to the S-2 to make the S2-A.
Modern Photography mainly noted that the wind gears had fewer and larger
teeth of harder material
(called nitrided gears elsewhere) and that the stop locked on 3 teeth
instead of one.
I have also heard that the S-2A had an overwind clutch so that if you keep
winding after the winding is finished - the gearing will not break but the
wind knob will slip without damage.
I don't know how much of this is nonsense.
I have an old S-2 and it just keeps on cranking. Its the smoothest old
Bronica I have found.
The S-2A is great too, but most of the winds are a little stiffer than my
old S-2.
However, we have the mental confidence that that camera should not easily
break.
I have heard of people adapting SQ screens to S-2A types. The screen has to
be shaved a bit
but should work out and is brighter.
If you changed the screens also change the finder foam
See my writeup on this on the Bronica website:
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
- Sam Sherman
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] how to adjust the screen?
1. There are many minor improvements, however the biggest difference is the
improvement in the gear/winding system. The S2A has stainless steel gears.
2. I have heard of people replacing the focusing screen by cutting down or
otherwise adapting a screen from another camera (i.e Rolleiflex), but I am
not aware of screens manufactured as replacements specifically fo the S
series Bronicas. I also use Minolta Autocords,and Spiratone (sp?) made
replacement split focus screens for that model at one time, so maybe there
out there.
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999
From: "Michael D. Wilson" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] how to adjust the screen?
> Kevin, there should be a serial number on the top of the body, and one on the
> top of the back. I think you can check the information at the Classic
> Bronica Web Site and find the range of serial numbers for the cameras and
> make a determination that way.
I have seen advertisements for Beatie bright screens for the S2A. If I can
find the AD I'll email it.
Mike Wilson
Pinson, Alabama
[Ed. Note: Here is another handy note from Sam Sherman re: repairs...]
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: FW: Bronica article posted and more
....
Having mentioned I sold my Bronica S-2A some time back and I was looking to
obtain a new one: Interesting story:
These are getting quite rare in the New Jersey/New York area in excellent
condition. At our local camera shows there are now few for sale and in
worn condition, even if they work.
I was able to get one body in almost mint condition, a rare Black
one -
which was excellent for my use. This camera seemed like it was sitting in
storage somewhere and hardly ever or never used. While it worked fine
there was
a dent in the camera body on the shutter speed dial side. This may have
been the reason it was not sold/used. I opened this side of the camera put
the side plate on a piece of wood and used another piece of wood on the
inside which I hammered down on and this restored the side plate to its
proper shape.
Then quite by accident I got the proper Black 12/24 back and for only $20
because the 12/24 switch did not work and it would remain at 12 exposures
only. To open this I had to unscrew the winder knob which had a stuck
screw that I cracked off to open. Inside there is a circular plate with
two holes that an insert fits into to lock the rotary switch into either
the 12 or 24 position. The factory had originally improperly drilled the
position of the "24" hole, which I had to file out to its proper
spot so that the insert would fit into the 24 position. This done I
reassembled the back, but first had to precision drill out the remainder
of the tiny cracked screw and find a new one to fit. All has been done and
the back works fine, after using another insert I had which worked
smoother. Note: some Bronica inserts for S-2A and "C" etc. work
better than others.
In addition, I also bought another S-2A outfit in excellent condition
physical and working and I may have this for sale as I bought both at the
same time, not knowing which or either I would get, but both came in.
---------------------
Thats it for now - continue all of your fine related work.
Best, Sam S
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BRONICA] Using Bronica S series
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 9-17-99
to: Bronica List-
Further advice to New Bronica users-
A good flash grip (handle) was made by Bronica and marked on its box for S-2A
and EC.
It works well with S-2 and C type cameras - with a Vivitar 283 flash in its
shoe.
The grip also had a cable release with trigger on the grip which you
connect to the cable release socket under the stop down button.
Note: To avoid shocks when using a flash unit which is for a hot
shoe, in a metal flash type shoe with no contact, but instead using the
electrical wire cable from the flash to the camera's PC socket--
I use a piece of masking tape on the foot of the flash unit to cover the
metal central contact point.
This is good to remember especially when using such flashes on old metal
rangefinder cameras which have PC sockets and no flash shoe.
- Sam Sherman
[Editor's Note:
See also Older Flash Trigger Voltages of 600+
Volts - you may want to check your flash to be sure your flash
doesn't expose high voltages that could be dangerous to you or your
gear!]
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] S2A helicoid ring
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 8-20-99
Dear Adrian and Bronica lists members:
Welcome aboard. Nice to know we have another member who loves those classic
Bronicas.
The Bronica interchangeable Focusing Mount was made for models- C, S-2, S2A,
EC,
ECTL and ECTLII.
It did not remain the same over its existence. I have no idea why changes
were made to its construction, but I have seen varying models. It is a
complex piece and when it breaks -
forget it.
I cannot be positive, but my memory recalls seeing one or more of these
having footage scales for additional lenses to the 75MM. Anybody else see
anthing like that, or am I imagining it?
It should not be difficult to find depth of field scales in a photography
book and make
scales you can paste on with double stick tape, that can be removed after
use.
Good luck.
- Sam Sherman
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999
From: "Michael D. Wilson" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] S2A helicoid ring
The helical, on my S2A, has a scale for 75, 80, and 100mm.
Mike Wilson (Mad Dog)
Pinson, Alabama
> I cannot be positive, but my memory recalls seeing one or more of these having
> footage scales for additional lenses to the 75MM. Anybody else see anthing
> like that, or am I imagining it?
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
[1] Re: Bronica as good as Hassy or graflex
Date: Fri Oct 29 01:59:29 CDT 1999
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 10-29-99
Bronica S2-A although a great camera is a poor choice for shooting weddings.
The back inserts were improved with later models and the
worn ones should be thrown out. The rubber wheel that triggers the counter
after extensive use wears down.
I would advise a 120 rangefinder camera as the best selection for shooting
weddings. Fuji, Mamiya or older Rangefinder models.
- Sam Sherman
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Prism finders for Bronica S2A
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999
I'm trying to discern the difference between the Prism A and Prism C
finders for the Bronica S2A series. I know that the C is at a 90 degree
angle and the A is at a 45 degree angle, but beyond that, is there a
brightness difference, durability difference, or other advantages or
disadvages to either?
Thanks for any info,
Jeff
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [BRONICA] Bronica S2A lens flare recommendations?
I remember someone wrote the flare observed in the finder of S2A
will not show up in the actual photo. The flare caused by the positioning
of the mirror relative to the lens element. I sometimes see the distinctive
flare with my Nikkor-P 75/2.8 on S2A, but never had it on the film.
Tak
[Ed. note: obviously, it varys, so check before buying! ;-) ]
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000
From: "Koeman, Kosta" [email protected]
Subject: RE: [BRONICA] Bronica S2A lens flare recommendations?
Tak,
Interesting.... However, I still have the flare show up on my prints. Of
course, this is when shooting into the sun.
Kosta
[Ed. note: dark slide removal tip..]
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Dark Slide Removal....
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 10-14-99
to- Bronica List
Kevin,
With the front of the back facing you (on S2-A type backs) there is a steel
pin coming through a hole in the facing plate on the upper right hand
corner.
It is the only one there - one can't miss it.
Just probe a small screwdriver in to retract it and the slide comes out -
you may want to push the slide in further while doing this to make it
easier.
To put the slide back reverse the process and push the slide in until it
clicks in.
- Sam Sherman
...
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999
from: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Digest Number 44
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 12-30-99
to: Bronica List
Edwin,
I started these film tests as part of my seeking excellent focus alignment
on my Bronica S-2. C and S2-A.
When I was unhappy with some results after the cameras were maxed out, I
decided the film had some fault in it. The better films give better
results - based on my tests.
Making tests on 120 Transparency film was the best as the transparency is
the original not a print or copy.
Making tests on Black & White is really the best as only one color emulsion
layer is involved.
Flattening the film at the film plane is also very important for sharper
results.
However, there is really little one can do to improve your camera's
design. The new 120 reflexes including Hasselblad are putting spring
tension on the supply roll of film with a notched point that fits into the
notch on the 120 spool. This is an old stunt that has been tried before to
flatten the film at the aperture. However it contributes to wearing out
the camera's wind gears. I am opposed to putting extra tension on the film
as it winds.
However, owners of Bronica S-2, S-2A and C can seek the improved film
inserts (made for late model S-2A cameras and marked on some as "A").
These sneaked into the market - they are noted by only one roller at the
top, not two as in the earlier models. They do give a flatter film plane
and sharper pictures.
- Sam Sherman
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 1999
From: Shinsaku HIURA [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] SQA/B vs. S2 / S2A
Hello,
> No reason why investment in SQA or Ai would be a waste of money. They will
> definitely out perform Kiev optically. The older S2 or S2A cameras are not
> the best of investments as there are no repair parts for them any longer.
> The bodies were complex to service and expensive to repair. They also use
> a focal plane shutter rather than a leaf shutter.
I agree your opinion partly, because the focal-plane SLR camera has some
advantages for macro photography or the cost of the lens.
I have Bronica ETR and EC (EC-TL) camera. You know ETR is the first
Bronica 645 SLR with electronic controlled leaf shutter.. But I think the
vibration caused by the mirror degrades the image.
The other one, Bronica EC, which is the following model of S2 or S2A
series, is a camera with a focal-plane shutter. It is better than ETR with
the respect of mirror vibration, because EC has two mirrors. When you
shoot, a main mirror (upper 80% of the mirror area) flips up, and the
remaining small mirror moves down.. the shock caused by the mirror is
mechanically eliminated each other. Also EC has mirror lock up function.
They say the leaf shutter is better than focal one with the aspect of
vibration .. it is right with RF camera, but I think the mirror vibration
is larger than shutter shock with medium-format camera.
Unfortunately, S2 or S2A utilizes "flip-down mirror". The all part of
the mirror goes down when shoot, .. so the mirror shock is not small.
It also lacks of the mirror lock-up function.
(It is very important for macro or landscape photograph.)
For that reason, I selected EC camera.
However, S2 or S2A do not require any batteries .. it is purely mechanical
camera. It also introduces mechanical troubles.
EC camera is tougher than S2A.
The flash-sync speed is the other advantage of leaf shutter, but some
kind of amateur photographer (i.e. landscape photographer) rarely uses
the high-speed sync, I think. Additionally, S2A or EC camera also
coubled with leaf-shutter lens, Nikkor-Q 105mm/F3.5, so you can choose
both types of shutter with these cameras.
The advantages of the focal-plane shutter is the ease of macro photo,
because the link for shutter charge/shutter release between body and
lenses are not necessary for focal one. I have closeup rings, bellows and
reverse rings, and enjoy with them.
The other advantage is the cost of the lens. Lenses for SQ camera has
shutter unit for each. The lenses for S2A or EC is much cheaper than the
one for SQ series.
I think Nikkor lens for focal-shutter bronica is fine. Its optical design
and quality is excellent, but Multi-coated type is less than the
single-coated one. It is hard to find.
(By the way, coating type is not so dominant.. for example, 50mm/F2.8 MC
lens for ETR has very bad strong flare .. single coated Nikkor 50mm/F3.5
for S2A or EC is more clear than it.
> The beauty of 6x6 is that it lets you shoot several formats. 6x6 or 645
> without having to turn the camera to do a vertical shot as well as 35mm
> standard or 35mm panoramic.
I think so. weist level finder is suitable for square format.
---
Shinsaku Hiura, Japan
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: Geo [email protected]
[1] Re: Bronica S2A vs. Mamiya C and RB
Date: Sat Feb 12 20:57:52 CST 2000
.....
I think you'd be hard pressed (there's a weird expression) to find a
bigger bargain in photography than the EC/TL. I got a complete system
(body, WLF, back, tubes, 50mm, 80mm, 135mm, 200mm)for $1k.. Where else
can you get a quality TTL 2 1/4 autoexposure system for $1k? I picked up
a second back for $175. on ebay. My only complaint is the not-so-close
focusing of the teles. You have to use the (non-auto) tubes for head
shots. Not very convenient but do-able.
And no, I don't do heavy duty, industrial strength shooting but in the
200 rolls or so I've put thru it I haven't had a problem.
Tho I haven't conducted a double blind, placebo controlled study, lens
performance is excellent with all lenses except the 135 which is a bit
low in contrast and flare prone. I'm sure under close scrutiny, all
things being equal, it wouldn't hold up to a 6x7 like the RB/RZ 67
simply because of film size but the price/performance of the EC/TL
simply can't be beat.
From Bronica Digest:
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000
From: Chris Cardinal [email protected]
Subject: Intenscreen for S2
Hello all. This may or may not be common knowledge, so I thought I'd
pass it along to the group. I recently contacted Beattie regarding an
Intenscreen for my S2a. While they no longer list it on their web site
(www.intenscreen.com) or in their product literature, they are more than
happy to make one for you with or without grid lines. I'm not sure of
pricing, but you can contact the sales rep at "John Taddeo"
[email protected]
Chris :^)
[email protected]
From Bronica Digest:
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Focus Alignment in Medium Format Cameras
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 2-20-2000
to: Bronica List
We have all heard about Hasselblad's claimed sharpness quality. Is it
true? Yes and No.
The Hasselblad company does a really fine precision job of manufacturing
to fine tolerances, using high quality lenses and then aligning their
cameras precisely. New Hasselblad cameras should be some of the best
medium format equipment.
What happens then?
I have hired photographers using Hasselblad having focus problems, jammed
shutters and lens problems, like all other cameras. Having top quality
technicians to fix and align these cameras is the next step. Technicians
who can and do work on these cameras are some of the best as the equipment
is used for expensive commercial purposes.
What of Bronica (old focal plane shutter models) and later models?
Many of the older C, S-2 and S-2A cameras have their focusing out of
alignment varying from slightly to very.
A reason for many to sell off this equipment - inability to get truly
sharp pictures... and why?
The finder foam deteriorating and causing the ground glass to move out of
its position - varies from very slightly to very obvious. This is easy to
repair. (see my articles on Bob Monaghan's Classic Broncia Website -
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html )
That is not the whole story. Due to factors unknown, the mirror can shift
from its true 45 degree angle to some other position - even slightly so.
This can happen on ANY 6x6cm SLR or TLR. If the mirror moves around and
does not remain in its current position, this must be repaired. If it is
stable in one position, one can assume that is the current permanent
position and move the finder ground glass to make up for the change in
mirror position.
Epoxying a Loupe onto a piece of 6x6 ground glass from an old TLR - one
can position this combination on the film rails of any 6x6 cm SLR or TLR
to check focus. Opening the camera shutter to T or B with a locking cable
release - with the camera on a tripod - aiming at a distant infinity
target - one should see the image snap into Crisp focus as the lens is
focused to its infinity setting. That is reassurance that the lens is
properly adjusted to reach true infinity and the camera body and back are
the proper length.
Now look at the finder image on the clear ground glass part of your finder
image. Does it snap into Crisp focus on this infinity target?
However, if the image in the finder is really sharp before the lens
setting reaches infinity or when the lens wide open is set at infinity the
finder image Appears sharp, but not as crisp as the ground glass image on
the film - then there is a problem.
Many cameras have this problem and as the photographer uses f8 or smaller
apertures, it is covered up by depth of field. But let him shoot wide open
at f2.8 and he gets a really soft image, usually passed off as having a
lens that needs to be stopped down to get a sharp image. Many of us have
encountered this... and why?
It is my belief that many cameras were not properly aligned at the factory
(heresy!). Or being knocked about changed the mirror position or.....
something else. Or a back is not machined to proper tolerances on
interchangeable back SLRs.
There is a need to check all backs if one has several for a 6x6 SLR. If
when sighting through the film plane with the ground glass/loupe most of
the backs yield a crisp infinity image and one does not - don't use that
back - ever!
I have examined many 6x6 cm SLR and TLR cameras and have found many in
which the finder image and the film plane image do not agree. I used to
think that the factory knew some deep dark secret and set the camera
properly to make up for something like film bulge into the aperture. Since
this is unpredictable from frame to frame and roll to roll, one must
assume that the film rests on the rails at the aperture, but Never behind
the aperture as the pressure plate presses it forward.
If the finder and film plane image are both sharp at infinity with the
lens wide open, now make the same test aiming at a lamp bulb closeup at
only two or three feet away, if the finder and film plane images agrees
everything is okay. Sometimes cameras fail the closeup test. In short, the
position of the ground glass must be set slightly up or down based on both
the infinity and closeup tests. When the camera is properly aligned all
images will be sharp for infinity or closeup.
Most Bronica and other good quality 6x6 cameras passing this test will be
able to yield sharp images at the upper end of medium format quality.
- Sam Sherman
Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999
From: Geo [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Kiev 88 vs. Bronica ETRsi
Sergio Azenha [email protected] wrote:
> After some studying around the net, I am trying to decide between two
> systems: Kiev 88 or Bronica ETRsi
Well, there is another option (as if you needed one). I got an entire
used Bronica EC/TL system (50mm, 80mm, 135mm, 200mm, extension tubes)
for $1000. USD. It has TTL metering and autoexposure. The quality of
negs and chromes I get is outstanding. An even cheaper option is the
S2A. These cameras have focal plane shutters so if you plan to do a lot
of outdoor flash it's not for you.
The few pennies you save on film with a 645 camera is not even an
issue. I like the convenience of 6x6. I can crop right in the
viewfinder. I instantly have a choice of vertical, horizontal or square
without having to rotate the camera.
--
George Struk
Natural Light - Black and White Photography
http://www.accesshub.net/naturalight
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Adding pinhole aperture to S2a?
FLEXARET2 [email protected] wrote:
: from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 2-19-2000
:
: I would be very careful with adding something behind the normal
: lens on Bronica S2-A, it is not a Mamiya TLR.
:
: As you know the lens seats deep into the camera above the falling mirror
: if something you put on the rear of the lens flies into the camera
: insides great damage could result.
That is very true. Years ago, I was working on the focusing mount of my
S2. As I remember, I was putting it back together and had not replaced the
screw that kept the lens from turning around in the mount. I put the
focusing mount and the normal lens on the camera. I then turned the lens a
little and heard a 'clink'. I broke the mirror. If you look at the metal
ring that sticks out the back of the 75mm lens, you will see that it has
cutouts in it. Those cutouts are necessary or it will strike the mirror.
The rear element of at least the 75mm lens almost touches the mirror.
I think that the close proximity of the rear element to the mirror leads
to the lens flare you often see in the viewfinder if there is a bright
light source above and outside the picture area. I think it is due to
light outside the picture area striking the mirror and then hitting the
rear element of the lens. This flare does does not appear on the film
since the mirror has moved away. For a long time, I attempted to shield
the lens to get rid of the flare, and finally realized it does not appear
on the film.
Ray
: Can you mount this pinhole on the front of the lens instead?
:
: My decision would be to buy a 75MM f2.8 Nikkor normal lens as an extra.
: They are relatively inexpensive today. Then open it up put the pinhole inside
: and have a dedicated pinhole lens only for this use.
--
E. Ray Lemar [email protected]
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: bronica s2a
I love mine! I recently moved up from my 35mm Canon F-1 to the S2a. It
is a reliable, easy to use camera. The only additional item you will
need is a light meter, as it is an all-mechanical beast. But, you will
never get stuck with a dead battery...
Chris :^)
PS-lots of lenses on Ebay. I've seen (and bid on several) 50mm, 75mm,
100mm, 135mm, 150mm, and a 200mm this week alone
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000
From: "Steve Hopkins" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: bronica s2a
I found one on eBay for $350 and later found a 135mm Zenzanon lens for
about $150. Everything works perfectly. Compare these prices to any other
6x6. (I did have to replace the foam spacers for the viewing screen.) As
long as the thing is working I don't think you can find a 6x6 at any price
that will take better pictures - unless you are a very advanced amateur or
serious professional who needs state of the art performance.
From Nikon Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000
From: "Felix Lopez de Maturana" [email protected]
Subject: [NIKON] RE: Nikon's letting other companies produce certain
products
Zenza Bronica sold in the sixties and seventies some nice lenses for their
S2A and EC 6x6 cameras made by Nikkon and whose name was Nikkor. 40 mm
f:4,
50 mm f:3,5, 75 mm f2,8,105 mm f3,5 with built in synchro shutter,
remember
these Zenza where focal plane shutter and cannot synchro beyond 1/60, 200
mm f3,5, 300 mm f5,6, 400 mm f4,5,600mm f5,6, 800 mm f8 and 1200 mm f11. I
still take pictures with some of them, including big teles, and a EC-TL
camera, first 6x6 instant quick return mirror and autoexposure ! and are
fine. Be proud Nikon owners, it is almost impossible to distinguish slides
from the Nikkor lenses from Carl Zeis Hasselblad lens that I often
use. Both
projected on a Rollei really good projector. Nikkor with Nikon cameras or
other brand cameras are not second to none.
Kind regards
Felix Lopez de Maturana
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000
From: "David Foy" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: bronica s2a
I used one for several years and thought it was wonderful. I was able to
explore the Zone system because I had three film magazines, and even today
when I look at some of the chromes I shot they can take my breath away. It
was a tough, pretty, easy-handling system, and I'd go for it in a minute
if I were you.
Date: 06 Oct 1999
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica as good as Hassy or graflex
Hasselblad makes fine cameras with fine lenses. You pay for what you get
and they are very expensive. Bronica today makes similar equipment which
is a "price item" far less than Hasselblad. Bronica lenses are fully
capable of 99% of what is generally needed in medium format photography
today. For those who are shooting murals for Grand Central Station in New
York, an 8x10 camera might be a good choice.
As for Bronica not having parts for old models- When was the last time
Hasselblad supplied parts and service for the 1000F and 1600F models?
As for old Bronica cameras, models like the S-2A need far less service
than the average Hasselblad and many, many of them are still going strong
almost 30 years later with no service ever. Users report continuous
problem-free photography with their S-2A models (Bronica's ultimate strong
mechanical 6x6 camera) after shooting thousands of rolls of film, and they
are still working well.
With good Nikkor lenses the early Bronica models are capable of
top medium format quality, even today.
For more information, see Bob Monaghan's Classic Bronica Mega site-
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
There are still plenty of available parts, service, lenses, accessories
and such available for Classic Bronica and an excellent S-2A camera
with Waist Level finder, normal Nikkor lens, 120/220 back and insert
can be purchased today for $500 plus or minus. What does used
Hasselblad equipment sell for today?
If you are running a studio or the photographic department of a major
corporation - go for it - spend the money - get the best and most
expensive new Hasselbald outfit with all of the trimmings.
If you are shooting for yourself and money is an object -
buy a good used Bronica S-2A.
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BRONICA] Bronica S-2A Flash Unit Suggestions
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 10-12-99
Here are some suggestions of Flash Units which I have used successfully
with
Bronica S-2A.
The Vivitar 283 only (not 285) which takes the Vivitar Bounce Card Bracket
and
a standard Kodak White card.
I place this unit on the (as read on Box) Bronica Handgrip L
"Deleuxe" type for EC and S2 cameras.
I extend this further from the camera with a small aluminum flash bracket
as
the bounce card interferes
with using the waist level finder magnifier.
Results can many times compare to those obtained with larger lights with
studio
umbrellas, with this combination. Excellent for portraits, shots of models
and
small groups of people. The diffused light from the card fills in lines on
the
face and
bags under the eyes etc., so gives great results with older subjects.
For a small flash that is light in weight and convenient to carry I
suggest the
Vivitar 1900 that is manual in
operation and with its flash exposure chart on the back easy to use for
well
exposed shots.
I have now successfully used this with a rare early Bronica accessory -
the
Bronica Flash Holder for
the early Bronica Deluxe. Originally intended to be used with the PC
contact in
the center of the
speed dial on the Deluxe, it was advised not to use this on later models
as
weight would put a strain on the speed
dial. Since all models from Deluxe to S2-A have the same bayonet
mount in
the speed dial it will allow this flash
holder to be mounted on all of these cameras. Used with a lightweight
flash
like the Vivitar 1900, there is
no weight damage threat to the camera and makes for a simple easy to use
combination for quick 6x6 cm flash shots
when one is in a hurry and does not want to use heavier flash
equipment.
- Sam Sherman
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BRONICA] Mystery of the classic Bronica focusing mounts
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman)
10-17-99
to: Bronica List-
Does anyone have
information on the old classic Bronica (focal plane shutter models)
interchangeable focusing mounts?
For some peculiar reason there
are at least two Bronica-made different types, which I have
identified:
(This does not include the Komura focusing mount or mounts
or any possible others.)
1- Common models on S-2 and S-2A - more
elaborately made - better construction bayonet for 75MM and other
lenses
mounted to focusing tube with screws and has small circular
pieces with screws. Focusing scale generally only for 75MM lenses.
Some variations in this model. Weight approx. 6 oz.
2- Less
common model on "C" cameras easily identified by focusing scale
for 4 different focal lengths. The bayonet for
lens attachment is
machined out of the focusing tube in one piece. Somehow this looks more
cheaply made or made by some
other company than version #1. All parts
are not interchangeable with version #1. Heavier - weight approx. 9
oz.
The screw threads are in a different place on version #1 and
#2. If you have a lens with a 57mm screw in mount and
the
aperture scale winds up at the top when screwed in tightly on one version,
it will wind up on the bottom on the other version.
There may be
further variations in the models for EC and ECTL and ECTL II.
All
of these are complex units and don't sell for much today. If one breaks it
is difficult to repair and almost pays to
take apart for using the
large camera bayonet to adapt odd lenses.
All information
appreciated.
- Sam Sherman
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000
From: KB [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica SQ ???
> I'm looking to branch out into medium format and am interested in getting
> something from the Bronica SQ range. I would be grateful if anybody can
> advise me on the differences between the various models in the SQ range and
> the pros and cons of them. Also please let me know of anything else I might
> find interesting about them (including where to get them cheap, as I'm a
> student).
> You can contact me at [email protected]
SQ - 6x6 manual camera body w/interchangeable everything.
SQ-A -- same, but takes a metered prism finder and AE
SQ-Ai -- adds TTL flash with the Metz SCA system
SQ-AM -- same as the SQ-A, but has a built-in motor drive
Look at http://www.keh.com -- they have some of the older bodies for
relatively good prices, plus you get a decent return policy.
If it were me, I would get an SQ or SQ-A, a waist-level finder, a speed
grip, an 80mm PS lens (PS is newer and better than S series) and either
a 120 or 220 back. I almost always buy 'bargain' grade at KEH, and it's
fine.
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Bits 'n bobs for S2A
Mike & Kosta,
What I did was pick up an old ratty S2A strap, took the old strap off and
used the ends on a foam Optech strap. This works fine, the ends have
slots wide enough for the Optech straps to go through..
If you can find an old strap or just the ends you might give this a try,
it has worked very well for me.
Don
[email protected]
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999
From: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BRONICA] homebrew lens shades, body caps, fixing a $300 rollei
lens hood
The older bronica s2/EC bodies feature a 57mm x 1mm pitch thread; so it
is possible for any machinist to create a body cap using that info; a
while back Greg Erker did a great job of creating a batch of these for
sale to bronica users, as well as some 57mmx1 reversing rings.
some dealers may have body caps, but not advertise them as small items, so
it may be helpful to check out the major dealers (see listing and links at
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronpg.html for bronica s2/ec dealers..)
there are also a few reversing rings out there, which mount in 57x1mm and
convert to a standard filter thread (e.g., 58mm). A standard aluminum
stack cap could be used to mount various lenses using this setup, perhaps
epoxying one lens to each stack cap so one ring could do many lenses?
A simpler option is to buy one or more screw-in extension tube(s) then
grind out a 2" PVC coupling and fit to extension tube(s). here is a photo
of such a rig - http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/jpegs/bronmac.jpg - the black
tube is a bronica extension tube, the white piece a PVC coupling, and the
microscope lens looking gizmo is from a "macroscope" used to project
images
of flowers and bugs in High School biology labs to wall size enlargements.
The extra PVC pipe piece is to emphasize that you can cut whatever length
of extension you want/need and have different tube lengths for different
lenses or macro setups etc. PVC end caps and pipe are so cheap that you
could have epoxy setups with each lens for about $5 or less materials cost
If you don't epoxy the tube in place but just force-fit it (hint: tape),
you can still use it for macro work with a tube set and regular lenses...
see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronhb.html for related details...
===== Lens Shades
lens shades can also be homebrewed and optimized - see directions at:
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/flare.html under homebrew lens hood
section
I have some more research materials from Brit. Jrnl Photogr. articles I
recently unearthed to add to this site, but the bottom line is that most
commercial lens hoods are less than ideal in shape and length - length
should exceed the focal length of the lens plus the diameter of the
outermost lens element, per theory - and how many lens hoods do that?
also a nifty article in the How-To front cover issue of Pop Photo
back in '96 or '97 by a Japanese guy on optimizing 35mm lens hood by
shining a light thru film gate and lens onto tracing paper for optimal
sizing and performance, in case you have older pop photos...
I have to admit to cracking up ;-) over Jim Chow's posting on how he
added $1 of black felt to fix a lens flare problem a $300 mostly plastic
lens hood for a Rollei 40mm/f3.5; it is the last post on the mf/flare.html
page - for $300, I would expect a lens hood to work without needing
fixing - wouldn't you? ;-) ;-) Heck, for $300, I'd expect it to come
_with_ a lens! ;-)
Personally, as a poor student, I'd rather put $100+ into another bronica
s2/EC lens or back rather than some accessories that can be homebrewed.
Esp. if the homebrew hood is much, much more effective than a commercial
one. Grins bobm
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999
From: Alan Schick [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] What to use as lenshoods
roland tcheng wrote:
> ...
> Also, one of the reasons I got a Bronica S2A was because I was
> interested in the ability to "lens hack" with these bodies. But finding
> a BODY CAP with which to start converting lenses also seems like a
> mighty rare find. Any sources out there?
I am also interested in this -- and a little confused. I bought a "body
cap" for my S2A from Koh's for $5. It's black plastic with the name
Bronica written across the front, and it fits the small bayonet of my
camera. I purchased it as a dust cover for when I set my S2A body
somewhere w/o a lens. A while back there was some discussion here about
S2A body caps and lens hacking, and at the time a "body cap" was being
auctioned on ebay for some much higher price (~$20?). Is there more
than one type of body cap available? The one I have is fairly rigid,
but I don't know if I'd attempt to drill it, tap it, and mount a lens on
it. It would probably stand the processing, but with only plastic
threads it would probably not last long.
Alan
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999
From: "Michael D. Wilson" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] What to use as lenshoods
For those lenses with a 67mm filter thread, which all of mine have, there
is a lens hood made by a company named "Hama". The hood is made of heavy
rubber and has a metal screw thread ring to attach it to the lens. the
rubber collapses into a very compact package for storage. It can be
expanded to serve three different focal length ranges. I've been pleased
with it. It seems to be very durable.
Mike Wilson
Pinson, Alabama
From BRonica Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999
From: Adrian Pateman [email protected]
Reply to: [email protected]
Subject: [BRONICA] Bronica lens hoods
Re Roland Tcheng's posting,
As an S2a user from England, I don't get a lot of use for my lens shade.
But, for what its worth, I use a bellows lens hood made by a company
called Camera Bellows in Birmingham (England). I think they make a
similar item for Lee filters. It cost about �25 sterling and fits the
front of any Cokin P series compatible filter holder.
Another option is a piece of heavy card painted black held between camera
and the sun.
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999
From: todd [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT: RB67
I have a Bronica GS1 6 x 7 system. I think this camera and associated
lenses are quite overlooked. Unlike the Mamiya 6 x 7 series of cameras,
which are effectively 7 x 7 due to the revolving back, the GS1 is a 6 x 7
camera that must be turned on its side to produce portrait oriented
photos.
This is not a problem as long as one has the grip, since the GS1 is a true
6 x 7 camera it is quite a bit smaller than the RB/RZ series. The mirror
is
smaller as well and does not have the same kick as the RB.
I have used the RB system quite a bit in the past and although a good
system, it is just too cumbersome to cart about. I liked the results, but
not the awkwardness of the camera.
It is interesting to compare the results of the GS1 against the Rollei
TLR.
There is quite a difference. The Bronica lenses are much cooler in colour
cast than the Rollei Xenotar or Planar, but can come close with a warming
filter. The bokeh of the Bronica lenses is very good. This surprised me a
bit, but the out of focus areas are very smooth, much like the Rollei TLR.
Certainly the lenses are very sharp, and I have nothing to complain about
in this area. What is not as nice as many other cameras is the build of
the
GS1. The RB is much more robust. But I have a feeling that the build of
the
GS1 is a compromise to lighten the camera to be hand held.
Todd
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT: RB67
You are right about the GS1 being overlooked. Even by Bronica!!!
This system has been treated as a sort of orphan by Bronica. The
long promised motor drive has never appeared, and the lens selection
has not received the attention of the 645 and 6 X 6 Bronicas.
I've always been very puzzled by this, since the GS1 is a very nice
camera system overall. The first generation lenses suffered from
very bad flare problems, but that was corrected by the use of better
baffling and light-absorbing paint on the interior surfaces.
The only working pros I ever encountered who use this system are
Steve Coonan whose specialty is automotive photography, and Johnny
Meeks who runs a studio in North Carolina.
Many working pros use the Pentax 67 system, though, and most use the
RZ/RB if they shoot 6 X 7.
Bob
Date: 13 Jun 1999
From: [email protected] (AL52818)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica Users SPEAK TO ME
Hi Quigg:
I use the Bronica GS-1, myself. Have owned 3 of 'em for the past 12
years, mostly used for wedding work, but also my own interests. Absolutely
love the system. I wouldn't even consider using anything else. Why:
Durability, quality, excellent optics, etc. The two drawbacks are:
1. The multiexposure lever should be made of metal, not plastic. I broke
all 3 of mine off soon after I bought them, but a quick trip to the local
camera repair shop outfitted me with metal levers, and all has been well
eversince.
2. If for some insane reason you decide to sell the stuff at a later date,
you'll have trouble because no one uses the system. Too bad. Same comment
regarding buying used GS-1 stuff.
Just my 2 cents.
AL
[Ed. note: see this post and the post below for handy tests...]
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999
From: Geoffrey Semorile [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Lense locks up body..
>Hey guys,
>
>Hep me Hep me I been hip-mo-tized !!!
>
>I bought a 50mm 2.8 MC lense for my ETRSi..
>
>I put it on the body, and it seemingly worked ok for about 3 frames.
>
>Then on the third or forth shutter snap it sounded like the leaf shutter in
>the lense fires, but I can't turn the crack, I can't push the sutter
>release again, and I can't remove the lense. The only way to free it up is
>to take the back off, turn the winder a crank or two then put the back back
>on. This allows me to go ahead and crank the camera into place..
>
>If I fire the shutter after doing this is locks again, but I can remove the
>lense after this..
>
>My 75mm and 150mm lense don't do this they work great..
>
>Only the new 50mm MC lense..
>
>I've already sent the lense back for a refund, but I was wondering if any
>of you might have an idea about this condition.
>
>Regards
>
>Kevin
This is the short description.
Your lens suffered from the all too common Bronica leaf shutter malaise
that occurs to all these lenses to one degree or another after they get to
be two years or older. Stiff worn shutter cocking ring. This occurs due
to the fact that two parts in the shutter develop a problem. One is a
bearing pivot that drys out and causes a wear point to occur on the
shutter cocking ring. This occurs in part because the roller bearing that
rides in a track on the cocking ring is harder metal than the cocking ring
itself. Wears a notch in the cocking ring. The result is that the release
of the shutter right at the beginning of the cycle is slowed down when the
roller bearing hits the notch and eventually causes the shutter to
malfunction or jam.
There is a way to test your lenses for this problem, if anyone is
interested toot up and I will explain it for you. This problem is the
same on all leaf shutter lenses for all Bronica formats 645, 6x6 and 6x7.
They all use the same size shutter unit and design. To resolve this
problem requires a complete overhaul of the shutter unit.
Best regards,
geoff/camera tech
2308 Taraval St. S. F., CA 94116 USA
UNDERWATER PHOTO/VIDEO SALES-REPAIRS-RENTALS
(415) 242-1700 Fax (415) 242-1719
email: [email protected] web site: http://www.cameratech.com
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999
From: geoff/camera tech [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BRONICA] TESTING BRONICA LENSES 645, 6X6 OR 6X7.
This test will allow you to check if your Bronica leaf shutter lens to see
if it is performing up to snuff.
Remove the lens from the camera body. Look on the edge of the silver
mount on the back of the lens just under the four lips that lock the lens
to the body. If the red dot on your lens is aligned with your belly button
you will find a small tab at three o'clock just under the lip. Press this
towards the center of the lens with the edge of your index or thumb nail
on your left hand. With the index and thumb of your right hand move the
two silver pins on the back of the lens in a clockwise direction left to
right. They ride in two slots. When the lens is fully cocked and ready to
install on the body these pins align with two dots on the back of the
lens. Move the pins slowly, you should feel no resistance and if you move
the pins all the way to the other end of the slots the shutter will fire.
Let go of the tab with your left hand and push the pins counter clockwise
(right to left) back to the other end of the slot and the pins will lock
and align with the two dots allowing the lens to be mounted on the camera
body. When first pushing the pins in a clockwise direction if you feel
resistance or sticking this is the indication your lens needs servicing.
The stiffness will get worse with time till the lens will no longer
function correctly on the camera.
This will also allow you to relax your shutter unit for storage as well
when the lens is not in use if you do not have it mounted on a body.
Best to store your shutter units in the relaxed position. In the cocked
position this tensions two very heavy main drive springs in the shutter
unit. Leaving them tensioned for long periods of time unused causes these
springs to fatigue and will cause all the high speeds 60 on up to fall off
in accuracy. Something not mentioned in any owners instruction manual.
This is also a good test to perform after your lens comes back from
service to see if they did it correctly.
Never attempt to service your own equipment and no a little drop of WD-40
will not solve this problem.
WARNING, the pins must always be aligned with the dots before trying to
mount the lens on a body. Do not attempt this test while bungy jumping
from a hot air balloon. Do not allow your two year old or teen ager to
perform this test un-supervised. The lenses can also be harmful or fatal
if swallowed.
Having given all the commensurate disclaimers I can think of good luck
with your test and don't drop the lens in your belly button.
If you have a question about your Bronica, operation, performance or
malfunction, drop me a line. I have nothing to do with the old focal
plane units and do not keep up on them just the modern leaf shutter units.
>Thanks Geoff,
>I was hoping you'd take up the challenge and explain the problem..
>
>I for one would like to know how to test my lense for this..
>
>Please explain on....
>
>Thanks
>
>Kevin
>>>Hep me Hep me I been hip-mo-tized !!!
>>>
>>>I bought a 50mm 2.8 MC lense for my ETRSi..
>>>
>>>I put it on the body, and it seemingly worked ok for about 3 frames.
>>>
>>>Then on the third or forth shutter snap it sounded like the leaf shutter in
>>>the lense fires, but I can't turn the crack, I can't push the sutter
>>>release again, and I can't remove the lense. The only way to free it up is
>>>to take the back off, turn the winder a crank or two then put the back back
>>>on. This allows me to go ahead and crank the camera into place..
>>>
>>>If I fire the shutter after doing this is locks again, but I can remove the
>>>lense after this..
>>>
>>>My 75mm and 150mm lense don't do this they work great..
>>>
>>>Only the new 50mm MC lense..
....
From Bronica Mailing List;
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999
From: Geoffrey Semorile [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] TESTING BRONICA LENSES 645, 6X6 OR 6X7.
Hi Richard,
>geoff/camera tech wrote:
>>
>> This test will allow you to check if your Bronica leaf shutter lens to
>> see if it is performing up to snuff.
>
>Geoff
>
>Thanks for the lens test procedure. I tried it on all three of my
>lenses with the same result. They all had very minor resistance when
>first moving the pins through about 5 degrees of motion. This did not
>feel as though they were sticking, but just overcoming an apparent ramp
>before moving without any resistance all the way up to the shutter
>release point. At the shutter release point there was slightly more
>resistance than at the first 5 degrees of movement and then the shutter
>would release. Does this sound normal to you?
>
>Also if one leaves the pins in the uncocked position and attaches the
>lens to the camera, will doing so cause any damage either to the lens
>or the camera?
>
>Thanks for all your timely information.
>
>Best regards
>
>Richard Voliva
The simplified explanation, there is a roller bearing that rides in a
track. Consider it like a roller coaster that starts out on level track
and then must climb an incline. When the roller bearing and related
pivots dry out it takes more force for the bearing to climb the track
beginning at the base of the incline. That is the first resistance you
feel. Not normal. The roller bearing starts to wear a notch in the track
right at the bottom of the incline. Once it starts to do this the problem
will only get worse and the wear will increase till the lens will
malfunction or mis fire on the body. Similar to running your car with no
oil in the motor.
The second resistance you feel at point of shutter release is normal. By
that point the mechanism has enough velocity that no wear is caused,
providing the resistance is not too great at the beginning where the
roller is starting to climb the incline.
It sounds like your lenses are at the point where they need servicing.
It is advisable to do this before the additional wear starts on the track.
As the track part is part of the shutter assembly. If the track wears too
badly it would require replacing the entire shutter unit at a much higher
cost.
Complete shutter units are no longer available for the S lenses for SQA
and E lenses being MC, E and E II. Shutter units are available for the
current production lenses of PE, PS and PG. The shutter is a different
unit for each focal length lens. Bronica does not stock many shutter
units so in most cases the time to obtain them from Japan can be 4 months
or longer.
The shutter unit in each lens should be tested and inspected
professionally once a year and serviced about every three years. It has
been my experience that the average camera user just runs the camera till
it stops and is then astonished by the cost of service and the need to
replace major assemblies due to long term wear. Deferred maintenance on
any product will always be more costly when it malfunctions finally.
Like running your car 100.000 miles without changing the oil. Increased
service time and down time will be required to special order major
assemblies not normally stocked.
All this can be avoided by have your equipment serviced and check on a
regular basis.
Best regards,
geoff/camera tech
2308 Taraval St. S. F., CA 94116 USA
UNDERWATER PHOTO/VIDEO SALES-REPAIRS-RENTALS
(415) 242-1700 Fax (415) 242-1719
email: [email protected] web site: http://www.cameratech.com
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999
From: geoff/camera tech [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Lense locks up body..
Yes Bronica offers the best and most reliable mating between lens and body
of the three biggies. Communications between lens and body are gold
plated contacts eliminating complicated mechanical timing and alignment of
mechanical parts. I have never needed an un jamming tool for a Bronica
lens like the one sold by Mr. H.
The Bronica lenses and bodies are very solid and well made components with
superb optics equal too or better than competitors. They are also for the
most part very modular and easy to service with some nit picking
exceptions. Their Achilles heel is the film backs. Flimsy pieces of junk
with way too much plastic, subject to numerous light leaks as well as
other issues. The weakest component in the system. You do not service
them you throw new parts at them. That is providing you can get them in a
timely fashion. Their other Achilles heel. If they got off the dime and
offered adequate parts and product support they might really give their
competitors a run for their money.
The kind of product review you will not find in any of your favorite photo
rags.
>The problems are different from brand to brand as the designs are
>different. I service all three of these brands and the reasons for
similar
>problems are much different among the three major brands.
>Best regards,
>
>
>
>Understood. I just meant that problems with leaf shutters are limited
>to Bronica. My experience has been poor with a couple of the "premier"
>brands, while my Bronica's have been flawless thus far over the last
>few years. Knock on a big old piece of wood :)
>
>Regards,
>Tim
>
>Classic Photography
>http://www.classicphoto.net
Best regards,
geoff/camera tech
2308 Taraval St. S.F.,CA 94116 USA
UNDERWATER PHOTO/VIDEO SALES-REPAIRS-RENTALS
Bronica western regional factory service center
(415)242-1700 Fax (415)242-1719
email: [email protected] web site: http://www.cameratech.com
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Re: light leakage, macro couplers
Hi,
My 120 suffered from light leakage - a spot would appear on a particular
area of a frame but not on all frames! I was puzzled by this until I
realized that the longer the interval between pictures the brighter the
spot on the next image. About a quarter of my images from the Galapagos
had this ugly spot!! Just how was the light getting in? That took even
longer as I had to tape off parts of the outside of the 120 insert and
holder. One area seemed to cause the problem but this was along the bottom
where there is no obvious holes/cracks etc. It wasn't until I looked on
the inside of the holder that I realised it was a screw hole. Light was
diffusing through the fake leather covering and onto the film via the
screw hole. Some superglue and magic marker took care of that but boy did
it take forever to track down...
In regards to macro - I don't think there is a reversable mount available
for any of the current Bronica cameras. Have you considered using a
respectable close-up lens? I use Nikon's which are absolutely superb but
their biggest is in 62mm filter size.
Jim
San Carlos
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999
From: budd gottesman [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Film Back Light Leaks
Geoff,
"They don't make them like they used to" is very often
true, and I've said it often enough. However, that
very often doesn't make them worse. I bought Mr. M's
645 (in the mid-70's), then Bronica's ETR (in '79-80),
then the SQa (in 89-90).... "In those days" with both
645's and even the SQ any of them were cheaper WITH
BELLS & WHISTLES than a new Rollieflex 2.8 ('antique'
by that time--that came w/no backs, lens change, a
prism [maybe-if used?] , and have to always pull the
camera off most 'good' brackets to open it on each
film change.) Batteries have certainly improved w/
strobes (think to the number of pounds of your battery
pack you would have carried back in the 70's (forget
earlier) to get a far less number of shots on slower
film (that might also have required a 1/8 second
outdoor [shade] exposure for a portrait of a little 5
year old), plastics have lightened a lot of loads;
even if I agree that, at times, I'd still prefer
metal. They will make what people will buy, and stop
production on what doesn't sell. In medium format
there's still plenty of competition for what is a
'limited' market. Conspiracy theories aside, everyone
still does want to make money / sales. The point and
shoot camera may well sell close if not into the
millions, the medium format will be in the tens
[hundreds???] of thousands...that goes a long way to
paying the development/design/marketing/etc....and
they can afford a much smaller mark-up on top of that.
It's compettion, babe, and ALL companies will look
for the cheaper labor that can do the job, materials,
etc. If they don't, you won't pay the price and
they're OUTAHERE. I won't go on, except to say that
I think none of us wants to go into the frey by
starting our own MF camera co. and selling for less
while building a better MF mousetrap. The world will
"beat a path to our door", but wait till they need
parts....if, by chance, we're still in business!
Another thing....with all this talk about light leaks,
everyone forgot about a post I had on here a number of
weeks ago. The biggest problem I've had with Bronica
backs (first w/ the ETR; and later with the SQa) have
been the negative spacing. It's usually uneven to
start with, and gets worse till eventually overlapping
occurs between 2; then a 1" space between another 2.
Worse yet, as I had happen...twice....where most of a
set of wedding formals wound up on ONE FRAME OF
FILM....camera felt like all was normal, wound
normally, etc.; but film obviously stood still. The
1st time we found out when the negs got back; the 2nd,
I felt like there were too many shots since the last
change and I was only on frame #8...just lucky, I
guess. I've been told by the authorized repair in my
area (Pro Camera Service - Thousand Oaks, CA) the
fault for some of this is that Bronica used brass for
some parts in the insert rather that steel.
Budd
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999
From: Alan Schick [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Intro and Newbie Questions
Leon,
Hi! Welcome to the list. I'm a bit new myself. You've come to the
right place for your questions. I have an S2A (and love it). I'm not a
complete authority, so I'll tell you what I can, and several others on
the list will fill in the holes (and maybe correct my misconceptions!).
If you're new to MF, there's nothing wrong with finding a decent used
S2A (or S or S2) system to get you started -- and it will be financially
efficient! E-bay has used kits (and lenses and other accessories) for
these cameras all the time. A while back there was a lot of chatter --
either on this list or the MF list, I can't remember -- about mirror
lock up. My S2A doesn't have it, and I kind of wish it did just for
those cases when it would be nice. Truthfully, I've not had any
apparent problems with image sharpness, but then again, I'm not a
professional, and I don't go after my 11 x 14 enlargements with a
magnifier to check it out. There's something about all that
exposure-time movement in the S2A (the dropping mirror, the focal plane
curtains, the viewer black-out curtain) that must somehow partially
cancel out the overall momentum of the motion, because although the
thing makes a REALLY LOUD 'KACHUNK' when it fires, the pictures come out
quit well, even when hand held (using a reasonable shutter speed).
I know the S2A was a product of some 'improvements' over the S and S2,
but I'm not completely familiar with all of them, so I'll just leave you
with my message that an S2A is a very decent, reliable, and sturdy (like
a tank!) machine. There are a number of very reputable service shops in
the U.S., and the completely mechanical nature of the thing will allow
it to work indefinitely. I don't know exactly what you'd gain so much
by going with the newer SQ-A or -B models (other than perhaps mirror
lock-up and a lighter load).
Oh yes -- one last thing. There's been a lot of conversation lately
regarding film back light leaks in the newer models. My S2A was
accidently stuck on a shelf for over 10 years (I was basically in a
photography slump due to work stresses) with half of an exposed roll in
it. When I recently resurrected it, I noticed this, grimaced, and
quickly shot the last six pictures or so and sent them off for
processing. They came back great! Pictures of frozen waterfalls in
Yellowstone in January, 1987!
I was amazed, but sometimes I amaze easily. :)
Hope this helps. I guess you got about 7 cents worth here.
Alan
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] FW: In Praise of old Bronica "C"
Sam,
Thanks, I have one on an S2 like this that has a number of different
lenses shown on the scale, never paid much attention to the infinity
setting and the red dots though. I picked it up for the the backup body
that I bought without WLF, Back or focusing ring. Seems to work great but
I don't have a need for all the settings and to be quite honest don't use
the scale much, I'm kind of a gotta see it kind of guy, my wife says I am
just a little simple;-)...
If some Bronica owner is looking for one with the different scales on the
same ring and has the 75mm focusing ring for an S2a in compatible
condition and wants to swap, drop me an email and lets talk. I picked
this one up used, it is smooth, in good condition and works well, I just
don't have a need for all the different scales.
Don
[email protected]
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999
From: Geoffrey Semorile [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [BRONICA] Film Back Light Leaks
>>Well, let's not take the comparison between MF and PNS too far. Of course
>>the medium format camera produces infinitely sharper images - and if the
>>frames don't overlap one another you might have something saleable.
>
>
>
>Might ? Try to sell something from a P&S :) I have had zero
>frame overlapping on _any_ of my Bronicas. I did have that
>problem on my RZ, and my Hasselblad.
>
>Regards,
>
>Tim
All three major MF cameras have issues with their backs in regards to
frame spacing, frame touching, frame overlap or just running through a
whole roll no frames. Now if they could figure out how to produce one
continuous image on an entire roll end to end they wouldn't need frames.
Medium format APS, the ultimate panoramic camera. The proof sheet boxes
would be a little long though. They could also come up with an new paper
format for this one. Are you listening Mr. K. Take your best shot before
Mr. F gets a hold of this revolutionary idea. It could set the APS
mis-concept on the road to success.
Backs seem to be where they cut their costs. The counter and film
metering mechs are generally flimsy little devices. Mr. H's being the
best in terms of quality of material. But a brand new H back out of the
box often has erratic size spacing between frames. This is considered
normal.
A far bigger issue none of the big three MF makers address is film
flatness during exposure. This is an issue the consumer for the most part
is unaware of. The main intention of the consumer for going to medium
format is improved resolution and sharpness. If the film is not being
held perfectly flat during exposure the focus is not the same in the
center of the film as in the corners. Film flatness will also be affected
by temperature. None of the three offer vacuum backs.
A vacuum back will essentially compress the film perfectly flat across the
entire image area prior to and during exposure. This vacuum must then be
released to allow the film to move through the back for the next exposure
and the film must then be compressed for the next exposure. This would
require making the film back, body and lens completely air tight. A much
more expensive procedure that would most assuredly make everything more
expensive to produce, but decidedly much more precise.
One company has addressed this and offers optional vacuum backs. Not one
of the big three, but a new comer to MF. Maybe the other three if they
are paying attention will catch on.
This is only one of the many huge fudge factor issues regarding tolerance
issues in the manufacture of photo equipment. The makers of cameras get
away with it, mostly due to consumer ignorance of the issues. You are not
always getting everything you think you might be getting. Film flatness
with MF or larger is also a major issue when you take the film to the next
step, the enlarger. That is another story.
If you think cameras are overpriced for what you are getting, take a close
look at your enlarger with the light on the next time you are in the
darkroom. Extremely imprecise instruments to say the least, even the best
of them. This includes what they term the industrial ones, used by your
local lab. Some costing thousands of dollars. To say the least the photo
manufacturing industry is based on a system of smoke, mirrors and
illusion.
The perception of precision.
Best regards,
geoff/camera tech
2308 Taraval St. S. F., CA 94116 USA
UNDERWATER PHOTO/VIDEO SALES-REPAIRS-RENTALS
(415) 242-1700 Fax (415) 242-1719
email: [email protected] web site: http://www.cameratech.com
[Ed. note: see Flare pages for sample ideas
for cheapy lens hoods and related resources...]
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Lens cap and helical cap for S2A
Mike,
If you can't find a rear lens cap, the cap off of a "PAM" non-stick
cooking spray can works really well, provided you can figure out some way
to hold it onto the back of the lens.
The focuser thread is indeed 57mm, but I don't think that's a standard
filter size (I've only ever seen 55mm and 58mm filters, nothing in the
middle). Gerg Erker made a bunch of threaded lens adapters (think of a
screw-on body cap with a pilot hole drilled in the center) and he might
have one or two left over.
regards,
Mahlon
"Michael D. Wilson" [email protected]
Please respond to [email protected]
To: "[email protected]" [email protected]
cc: (bcc: Mahlon R. Haunschild)
Subject: [BRONICA] Lens cap and helical cap for S2A
Hello List. I need a rear lens cap for the old Nikkor lenses for the
Bronica S2A and a body cap. Does anyone know if a body cap was
manufactured for the Helical focus mount? The mount has threads for old
screw mount lenses and I think, but I'm not sure, that they are 57mm.
If there's no cap available I guess I could use a 57mm filter or
something similar. Any suggestions appreciated.
Mike Wilson
Pinson, Alabama
[email protected]
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999
From: Al Dupuis [email protected]
Subject: [BRONICA] Re: bronica-digest V1 #73
bronica-digest wrote:
> Date: Sun, 25 Jul 1999
> From: Shinsaku HIURA [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [BRONICA] SQA/B vs. S2 / S2A
>
> SNIP, SNIP, SNIP.....
>
> Unfortunately, S2 or S2A utilizes "flip-down mirror". The all part of
> the mirror goes down when shoot, .. so the mirror shock is not small.
> It also lacks of the mirror lock-up function.
> (It is very important for macro or landscape photograph.)
> For that reason, I selected EC camera.
> However, S2 or S2A do not require any batteries .. it is purely mechanical
> camera. It also introduces mechanical troubles.
> EC camera is tougher than S2A.
SNIP, SNIP, SNIP.....
I've heard this several times now, but can't seem to get any of this
mirror shake that everyone accuses the S2A of. I just finished shooting a
bunch of landscape shots, mostly at shutter speeds of between 1/2 second
and 1/60 (early morning light), on a tripod with cable release. The
sharpness of these shots is incredible, and I've had one printed
(Ilfochrome) at 30 inches by 30 inches. In these shots, you can count
individual pine needles in trees, see extreme detail in wood grain, etc.
Has anyone who is listing this disadvantage, actually seen evidence of
mirror shake from an S2A when mounted on a tripod and used with cable
release? I'm having a hard time believing Bronica wouldn't have noticed
this problem, and my results indicate there is no problem.
I'd hate to see beginners (like me) steered away from this incredible
camera value because of non-existent problems.
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999
From: "S. Sherman" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Flash Sync problems with my EC-TL
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 8-31-99
to: Bronica List
I think many flash sync problems are caused by oxidation of various
contact points inside and outside of the camera.
The PC connection is a living nightmare that should never been adapted as
the industry standard. It is small not good. The old ASA and two pin
Graflex were far better sync. connections.
I would take the back off the camera and release the shutter 100 times
each on each sync speed.
Then I would put a small flash on the camera (after scraping the battery
contacts in the flash) aim it at a light wall and look through the back of
the camera. It will be easy to see if it works repeatedly.
I would also take a flash sync cord plug it in the camera and turn it back
and forth to
remove oxidation on the PC connection on the camera.
If it does not work right each time - then send it to Camera Wiz or Ken
Ruth.
- Sam Sherman
>Hi all,
>
>I took my Bronica EC-TL and some rented monolights into work this week to
>take some very simple catalog-type shots.
>
>I'm fairly convinced that my flash sync is intermittently broken. It seemed
>that only 1 in three of my polaroids had images (some of this can be
>explained by the darkslide -- oops). Now that I've got the chromes back, I
>see that I "lost" two of the images. And yes, the strobes fired.
>
>When I first suspected the problem, I tried to test the flash sync as per
>the posting of a few weeks ago. Every thing seemed OK. Obviously they're
>not. I've had problems at the top sync speed (1/60), 1/30, and even the
>mechanically-goverend 1/40.
>
>So, how and why does flash sync break on a focal plane camera? Why
>intermittent? Could it be the battery (even though if tests good)?
>
>Is my beloved Broni headed _back_ into the shop.
>
>Thanks for any help...
>
>~Todd
>
>P.S. This is the first time I've tried using sync since I got my EC-TL back
>from a "repair" shop. I don't want to point fingers, but I know where NOT
>to send it again.
From Bronica Digest:
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Good strap for the S2A?
Chris,
The Heavy duty Bronica EC or ECTL strap is great on the S2-A regardless of
the "wings".
You can probably get one from Koh's Cameras - see their ad in Shutterbug.
Or get one of the early straps - keep the metal parts and cut off the old
leather strap and throw it away.
Then you will have loops into which any strap can fit.
But, I suggest the wide and heavy EC strap as best. I use it all of the
time and it does not cut into my neck.
- Sam Sherman
From Bronica Digest:
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Good strap for the S2A?
Chris,
I took the metal connector tabs (that attach to the body or the camera)
then mounted them to the foam Optech strap. It is about 2" wide, foam and
is very comforable to to use.
Don
From Leica Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000
From: "rlb" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Leica] sharpness & optical quality
Larry.....I agree with your every word.
Recently I attended a presentation by a very well known photographer from
Savannah, Jack Leigh. As he presented his work my mouth hung to my knees
it awe. As far as I was concerned he had made every shot with a 4x5 and
lengthy exposure. I asked the question of him, "Jack, you don't have
enough light in these settings to take a picture." He said I have been
using Tri-X at ISO 200 in D76 - 1:1 for years. I don't really pay that
much attention to exposure. I pray a lot that there is enough light and
so far I have been lucky.
He used a 20 year old Bronica with a 50mm lens
most of the time. Many of his shots were taken from a "paddle
boat" and
we know how shaky that can be. There were shots of fisherman in the
bayous taken with only the light of the moon and a flashlight. On a good
day he was lucky to produce four acceptable prints from his darkroom.
So Larry, in support of what you have said it certainly was not the
equipment that allows Jack Leigh to get from $1000 to $4000 for a 16x20.
This sure motivated me.
Bob Bedwell
....
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: "R123" [email protected]
[1] Bronica C-2 Quality?
Date: Thu May 11 21:36:17 CDT 2000
I am considering the purchase of a Bronica C-2 for a first medium format =
camera, but I read that they are not very reliable or well built. Does =
anyone have any experience with these cameras? Thanks in advance for =
the comments.
Rod Case
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: "abyssal" [email protected]
[1] Re: Bronica C-2 Quality?
Date: Thu May 11 22:44:10 CDT 2000
The Bronica C/EC/S/S2/S2A are some of the most reliable workhorses ever to
grace the MF world. Where did you get your information from????
abyssal
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Do you remember your 1st mf?
Date: 06 May 2000
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 5-6-2000
My first medium format camera was the 127 Herbert George "Donald Duck"
camera in the 1940s. Afflicted with light leaks it was not very good.
From there I was given a Kodak 620 Brownie Hawkeye, which was a quality
box camera took good photos. Next was a Uniflex I, which was capable of
good results. Next a Kodak Tourist f4.5, which I used for photos of
celebrity interviews as it folded compactly. Then many years of using 35MM
and a return to MF with a variety of TLRs, Bronica S2-A types and Pentacon
6 variants amongst others. My study reveals the sharpest pictures to come
from the Bronica S-2A, S-2, C - with Nikkor lenses - all of which cameras
have had their focusing optimized.
see my articles on Bob Monaghan's Classic Bronica website-
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Leaf or Focal Plane Shutters?
Date: 05 May 2000
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 5-5-2000
There are many advantages to medium format focal plane shutter cameras,
especially Bronica S2-A and its brothers.
Go to Bob Monaghan's Classic Bronica website and you can read articles
I and other photographers have written about the advantages these cameras
have.
see website- http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
Leaf shutter medium format cameras are popular today because they are
currently made, advertised, exploited and promoted.
Hasselblad makes good cameras, but they are not the only game in
town.
A good photographer with a good Bronica S2-A and its Nikkor lenses
can take photographs of all kinds in the upper range of medium format.
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica Lens Interchangability
Date: 06 May 2000
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 5-6-2000
You are stuck with nothing - you can mount thousands of lenses to your
Focal Plane Bronica.
First you can use all lenses made for models
Z, Deluxe, S, S-2, S2-A,C, EC, ECTL, ECTLII
Then you can adapt thousands of others. Life does not last that long---
see Bob Monaghan's Classic Bronica website for information-
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica Lens Interchangability
Date: 07 May 2000
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 5-7-2000
Forget trying to adapt leaf shutter Bronica lenses to S focal plane
cameras.
The linkages would not be present to wind or release the shutter. There is
nothing so exotic there in Bronica leaf shutter lenses that using the
regular S series lenses wouldn't be perfectly adequate for.
For leaf shutter there is the 105MM Nikkor leaf shutter lens with full
flash sync for S series Bronica cameras.
If one wants unusual or exotic lens adapted they can be easily adapted to
Broncia focal plane cameras, but not so to Bronica leaf shutter models.
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace.medium-format
Subject: Re: Wanted: strap for Bronica S2A
Date: 08 May 2000
Try Koh's Cameras and other dealers in Shutterbug.
Order the wide strap for Bronica EC or ECTL - these will work fine on the
S2-A regardless of the wings. The post size is the same in all of these
models.
From: Woody Kamena [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000
Bronica's in this series (s, s2, s2a) are great cameras. They are also
"focal plane shutters" which means slow flash sync speeds (unlike more
expensive leaf shutters). They are also about 30 years old. S and S2 had
brass gearing that sometimes wore down and needed replacement (now hard to
find). An s2a had steel gears and would have held up better over the
years. (Look for s2a in serial number). Lens are very good (especially
some of the nikors) and are cheap due to age and lack of shutter found in
many MF lenses.'
WK
(owner of an s, s2 and s2a)
FLEXARET2 wrote:
> from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 5-10-2000
>
> The Bronica S-2 is an excellent camera, but will probably need some tuneup and
> adjustment.
>
> See Bob Monaghan's Classic Bronica website - already posted here.
>
> If you get a Bronica S-2 you may want to send to to Camera Wiz (see ad in
> Shutterbug) for a complete checkout, clean and adjust.
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: bronica s2a & kiev-fisheye
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000
"Dirk Redemann" wrote:
> Hello,
> that's my first visit here. Last five years I worked with a KIEV 88 with a
> Pentacon
> 6 Mount. Yesterday I've bought a s2a-Bronica. The lenses of the KIEV are
> very good, so I look for a way to fit the lenses to the body. Besides that
> i'm searching for adresses from other s2a bronica-users.
Ask Brenner Foto Versand GmbH, Postfach 1260, 92602 Weiden. Tel. (0961)
6706040. www.brenner-fotoversand.de, [email protected]. They do a lot of
KIEV .
From: "C. Cardinal" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000
Subject: Re: Considering a used Hasselblad
Have you considered the Bronica S2a? It's every bit as robust as a
Hasselblad, but at 1/4 the price. I have an S2a, a couple of 120/220
backs,
4 lenses, and a nice aluminum case for what the typical Hassie
body/lens/back goes for. Check out Bob Monaghan's medium format site for
some eye opening information. Don't pay extra for the cachet of the Hassie
name.
That's quite a leap from a $75 TLR to the multi-thousand dollar
Hasselblad...
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/cameras.html
Chris
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000
From: [email protected] (Bill Kenner)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica lenses
> Is there big quality difference between Zenzanon (PS) and Zeiss lenses? I
> saw some pictures taken with Zenzanon (50x50 cm enlargement prints) and they
> don't seemed bad. Are Zeiss CF lenses really so better?
The British photo magazine, Pratical Photography, did a comparison of the
Bronica and the Hassy. They prefered the Bronica and could find no
advantage in either of the lenses.
Bill Kenner
Nashville, TN
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000
From: S Gardner [email protected]
Subject: A suggestion regarding film backs
With all the discussion regarding possible problems with film backs, I
thought it might be a good time to share a trick I learned from a very
experienced shooter.
To help isolate inevitable problems that crop up with backs, give each
on a unique 'signiture'. This can be done very simply by using a small
file to make a unique number of tiny notches at the edge of the back
that frames the film. The notches will show up on the neg, but not on
the print. Obviously you'll want to do it on the left or right edge.
You can also number each back externally to correspond to the number of
notches to make troubleshooting more efficient.
FWIW./Scott Gardner
From Nikon Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [NIKON] Nikon medium format
[email protected] writes:
Some discussion these times about Nikon vs Medium format...
my two cents : Being a very hard Nikon buff, but addicted to square
format for slide shows (more impressive on usually square screens,
and no more the annoying switch between vertical and horizontal
images), I use the '70's Bronica EC-TL body, with its excellent
MEDIUM FORMAT NIKON LENSES.
I will throw my two cents worth in agreement with Michel. I too am a
Medium
Format Nikon buff. I still do a few class reunions (large group
shots) and
weddings. Even if I did not do these anymore, I don't think I would give
up
my Bronica ECTL. It and the Nikon lenses are great.
Gary
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] MF Nikon
I used Bronica cameras with Nikon glass back in the 70s before switching
to Rollei SL66. I had a couple S2A bodies and accessories and the 40, 75
and 150 Nikkor lenses. The S2A was a MUCH better camera than the other
S series and did not tend to break down. It had steel gears in place of
soft brass. My S2A cameras never let me down mechanically.
The Nikkor lenses were great! The problem was that so much moved in the
camera when you took a photo that the whole camera shook. OK if on a
sturdy tripod, but forget shooting hand held. Catchlights in subject's
eyes were elongated ovals from camera movement when you tried to shoot
hand held, so the super quality of the lenses was largely wasted.
I never regretted selling my Bronica outfit and buying into Rollei.
> From: Lucian Chis [email protected]
> Reply-To: [email protected]
> Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [Rollei] MF Nikon
>
> Nikon made lenses for Bronicas (S series focal plane shutter cameras) and I
> would
> like to know any user's impressions on that glass (I know the cameras lock up
> all
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000
From: "R. Peters" [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] Nikon Glass on Bronica
I think the only early Bronica that had a bad reputation for locking up
was the early S or S2. By the time they came out with theS2A, their
reputation improved. I had an EC with electonically regulated shutter, and
I really liked the camera, at least for general work (the 1/60th (?) flash
synch speed wasn't adequate for a lot of flash work). Lock up? Never
once. But I wouldn't buy a focal plane shutter Bronica today and pay much
because they've been out of production for too long, and repairs are hard
to find.
I had 50mm, 75mm, 135mm and 200mm Nikkors. All were great. The only
complaint I had was that the only place at the time I had it that would
repair it was GMI, the importer. Even PhotoTronics in Seattle wouldn't
touch it. After one trip to GMI for a minor repair that cost about 3
times what I expected, I decided "less is more" and went back to Rollei.
When I want other focal length lenses I can use my Horseman.
By the way, Nikon also made a 75mm f3.5 taking lens for one of the "Tower"
(Sears and Roebuck imported) twin lens reflexes, which appeared to be its
only redeeming quality (looked like junk, otherwise).
bob
>Nikon made lenses for Bronicas (S series focal plane shutter cameras) and I would
>like to know any user's impressions on that glass (I know the cameras lock up all
>the time!)
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Nikon Glass on Bronica
The Bronica EC was an early electronically timed camera. It had a
two-piece reflex mirror, part of which flipped up as in other SLR designs
and part of which flipped down and was covered with a blind during the
exposure. It was a nightmare to keep the two mirrors aligned.
At the time of the S series cameras and the EC, Bronica was distributed in
the USA by EPOI, the predecessor of Nikon Inc. GMI picked up the line
much later and never handled any of the Bronica cameras with focal plane
shutters.
Bob
...
From Nikon Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000
From: Felix Lapez de Maturana [email protected]
Subject: [NIKON] RE: Medium format and Nikon lens
"Do I need an adapter to fit Nikon lenses to the Bronica? Does the focal
length alter. What sort of medium format lenses does the Bronica take and
are they readily available."
Richard,
I'm afraid the lenses for Zenza Bronica are not the same than the F mount.
Image coverage does not allow to cover MF film and thus lenses need to be
bigger. Compatibility is on the other side when you can fit in your Contax
N1 the lenses for Contax 645.
But things do not come worse. You can find in the second hand market
incredible lenses made by Nikon for the old Bronica at very low price.
Quality? I'll tell you something that sure will offend Hasselblad and
Rollei owners. When I have mixed, in a mistake, my pics coming from Zenza
Bronica with Nikkor lens with others coming from Hasselblad with Carl
Zeiss lenses I could not be abble to say which come from... And this is
projecting in a very large MF high quality slides projector.
Richard, really, look around and find a Bronica with Nikkor lenses coming
from amateur people so that it is in good mechanical condition and, I bet,
you will be astonished with results and for sure you will in love with MF.
I'm afraid this is Off topic but the lenses are Nikkor.
Kind regards
FTlix
From Nikon Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000
From: FElix_Lopez_de_Maturana [email protected]
Subject: [NIKON] RE: Medium format and Nikon lens
"Do I need an adapter to fit Nikon lenses to the Bronica?
Does the focal length alter.
What sort of medium format lenses does the Bronica take and are they
readily
available."
Richard,
I'm afraid the lenses for Zenza Bronica are not the same than the F mount.
Image coverage does not allow to cover MF film and thus lenses need to be
bigger. Compatibility is on the other side when you can fit in your Contax
N1 the lenses for Contax 645.
But things do not come worse. You can find in the second hand market
incredible lenses made by Nikon for the old Bronica at very low price.
Quality? I'll tell you something that sure will offend Hasselblad and
Rollei owners. When I have mixed, in a mistake, my pics coming from Zenza
Bronica with Nikkor lens with others coming from Hasselblad with Carl
Zeiss lenses I could not be abble to say which come from... And this is
projecting in a very large MF high quality slides projector.
Richard, really, look around and find a Bronica with Nikkor lenses coming
from amateur people so that it is in good mechanical condition and, I bet,
you will be astonished with results and for sure you will in love with MF.
I'm afraid this is Off topic but the lenses are Nikkor.
Kind regards
FTlix
Date: 07 Sep 2000
From: [email protected] (WardCheese)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica -vs- Mamiya / new or used?
I made the MF leap about two years ago, also under pretty stern financial
constraints. I did exhaustive reading about many brands and formats, and
finally chose the older mechanical Bronica. The advantages are:
Price. I got a fully operational bronica ssystem (body, waist
level viewer, 120/220 back, 80mm lens) for about $400. The camera is
about 1969 or 1970 vintage.
Glass Quality. All my lenses are made by Nikkor (Nikon), are fully
multicoated, and INCREDIBLY sharp. The contrast and color saturation is
spectacular.
Focal Plane shutter. Advantage is that when you buy a lens, all
you are buying is the glass and aperture blades, not a whole other leaf
shutter. Thus, my Nikkor 200mm lens cost me about $250, vs $1500 for the
cheapest Hasselblad 200mm I've seen.
Many people will denegrate these cameras for their mechanical designs, but
I encourage you to talk to people who have actually owned and used them.
They are really wonderful cameras.
I suggest looking for the S2A, EC, or ECTL. Avoid the S2, S, and earlier
models, just for the age related wear. Also, in the older cameras, some
of the gearing was made of more fragile metals. The S2A and EC/ECTL have
steel gearing. The ECTL has a TTL meter built in, and EC has an optional
metered finder. The S2A is all mechanical, with no meter.
Good luck!
--ward
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000
From: Lisa Horton [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions about Bronica S2A
For me personally, liked that it was cheap and good. Really cheap, and
really pretty good:) Handled nicely. Downside was the scarcity and
price of polaroid backs, often more expensive than the body! That, in
the end, is what drove me to sell it.
Lisa
IndoScuba wrote:
> What you guys like and dislike about this camera?
Date: 17 Sep 2000
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions about Bronica S2A
Making a Polaaroid back for the Bronica S2-A is no big deal if you
cannot find an original one.
Buy the plastic back part from Polaroid for about $40.
Take your regular rollfilm back to any good machine shop and they can
replicate the camera plate - or take one off a junker back from Bronica S,
S2 or S2-A. Then any good repairman can set infinity focus and finish the
back. I had Ken Ruth (Photography on Bald Mountain- see his ad in
Shutterbug) do a similar job for me. Total cost should be $100 to $150,
which is low for Polaroid backs for Hassy and others.
Not having a Polaroid back easily bought was not a good reason to get rid
of a good Bronica S2-A outfit.
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000
From: [email protected] (Sandy King)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions about Bronica S2A
> Hi, I'm a newbie in MF. I'm planning to purchase a set of MF camera
> soon. I have a question about BRONICA S2A. Is this camera has 6x6 or 6x7
> format?
>
> What you guys like and dislike about this camera?
>
> Thanks a lot.
>
> INDOSCUBA
I used a Bronica S2A outfit for about 10 years, including a full range of
Nikkor lenses from wide-angle to long telephoto, and the very nice bellows
that allows the use pf swings and tilts with certian lenses. The Nikkor
lenses were sharp and I never had any mechanical trouble with the camera.
My main objection to the camera was the very loud sound made by the firing
of the shutter. I eventually sold the outfit to support the cost of some
large format equipment.
Sandy King
From Nikon MF Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000
From: FTlix L=pez de Maturana [email protected]
Subject: RE: Medium Format Nikor Lenses
"I am in love with my new toys and since I have begun using the Nikon F
with all the terrific lenses (I've got a 24 2.8, 35 1.4, 105 2.5, and just
got a 75-150 E)I have a renewed interest in photography. So why stop
where any reasonable person would? I had my curiosity peaked when reading
Bob Monahan's (sp?) website and noticed that he was talking about a
Bronica S2/S2A that had Nikor lenses. I just couldn't get it out of my
mind - sort of like that last song heard on the radio that just keeps
repeating in your mind.
Well I did some more reading and a week later I found an S2A with a 75mm
F2.8 Nikor. The lens looks like it's about a week old. Not a speck of
dust and the camera is cherry. So I bought some of the Agfa APX 25 and
shot a quick roll. I just got done developing it. It's still wet or I'd
be downstairs checking the negatives with a loop. But I've got to say the
negatives loook goood. ;-)
Are there any others using/or experienced with these lenses? Anyone know
of a source for these other than KEH or Ebay? I will have a better feel
for the results and the lens' capabilities after more experience with it
but I sure am golly-gee-whiz excited so far.
Tomorrow evening I'll be trying out the 75-150 E. Life is wonderful.
Mackie"
I use two Zenza Bronica 6x6 from last 30 years with a 40,50,75 and 200mm
Nikkor lens with very good results. I even compared it with pictures made
with my Hasselblad cameras on similar lenses and Bronica pictures with
Nikkor lenses resist perfectly this match. I try to distinguish slides
projected from both cameras and nobody could distinguish. You cand find
regularly in ebay material for Bronica S2/EC with much better prices than
for Hasselblad or Rollei but Bronica is not prepared for much hard work.
Regards
FTlix
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 6x7 vs 6x6/6x4.5 Re: [medium-format] Swapping MF systems
Kelvin,
If I wanted a versatile, strong medium format system to adapt various
lenses to, I would pick Bronica S2A.
I would buy one on Ebay for $250-$400 and then send it to Frank Marshman
at Camera Wiz - to overhaul for about $200 - replace finder foam, clean
lube and adjust.
Then that camera would be good for another 20 years assuming one did not
drop it off the roof of a building.
And, look at the great super-sharp lenses available
75MM f2.8 Nikkor - comes with the camera
50MM f3.5 Nikkor - on Ebay for $150-$200
135MM f3.5 Nikkor - on Ebay - $125
200MM f4 Nikkor - on Ebay - $150
100MM f2.8 Zenzanon 0n Ebay - $150 or less
150MM f3.5 Zenzanon on Ebay - $150 or less
Komura lenses - f4.5 45MM, 200MM f3.5, 300MM f5, 500MM f7 - at low prices
plus all of the many lenses you can adapt.
Also - but not cheap - Polaroid Backs - 4.5x6 backs - bellows (sometimes
cheap), prism finders - 105MM f3.5 Nikkor lens with leaf shutter and on
and on.
Something to think about.
- Sam Sherman
...
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000
From: David 'Rick' Head [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [medium-format] The poop on SQa lenses
I am a professional photographer and have the SQA system and the 150ps and
80ps lenses, they are tack sharp. Alot of my work gets blown up to 4X8
feet
from a cropped portion of the trans. When printed with a lightjet 5000
peach fuzz on a teenage girls chin is clear and sharp and that is from a
group photo that is full length and 4X8 feet.
The PS lenses are at least as sharp as Hassy lenses and much more
affordable.
This is a widely held view.
Rick Head
Rick Head Photografx
Memphis, TN
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000
From: "Jimmy & Teresa Rhyne" [email protected]
Subject: Re: GS-1
Yep, had brand new and right out of the package! Never fear, I did buy a
Bronica S2 and Bronica C and Nikon 50, 75, 135, 200 lenses so I am a
Bronica person. Just could not get the GS-1 to hum so I sent it back and
have no regrets with buying the S2 system.....
Jimmy
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Medium Format Film Flatness or Not
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 11-16-2000
to: Bronica@egroups
Richard,
When I found my finder focus off with my 75mm lens at infinity on Bronica
C, I discovered the problem with the ground glass alignment and
deteriorated finder foam in old Bronica ccameras.
(note: I have done articles on how to fix this and some related subjects
on Bob Monaghan's Bronica site-
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.htm
I did my own experiments and found out how to fix this, and I also did
this for my Bronica S2 and S2A cameras. Since many people who saw my "fix"
article on the website have written to me, I discovered this was a common
problem on otherwise good cameras.
Next, I adapted a 180MM f2.8 Zeiss Sonnar to the above cameras and wanted
to use it to take portraits at f2.8 to blurr out the backgrounds and have
the subject be relatively sharp.
This still did not work to my critical approval. I next discovered that
the film was buckling in the camera apertures - all 3 cameras - in
extensive tests.
Next discovery is that Bronica also knew that and made modifications to
the film back "inserts"- these look similar to the old ones to the
untrained eye, but they are not. The improved ones are sometimes marked
"A". I replaced all my old inserts with the "A" inserts and furthermore
cleaned and, adjusted and lubricated them. This got rid of approx. 85% of
the film bucking. I now get pictures of incredible sharpness on these 3
cameras, including using the 180MM Sonnar at f2.8.
I know a lot about film flatness in these cameras and some of the newer
models. (Read my story about the Photo Plus Expo on the above Bronica
site).
Medium format film flatness is not a problem to be minimized. It is real.
However, if you are shooting with 50mm to 75mm lenses at f11, you may
never see it or know it even exists. But with 180mm lenses at f2.8, 400mm
lenses at f4.5, any lens at extreme Macro closeup use, there is a real
difference. If a photographer is not involved with work of this kind, uses
fast emulsions and small apertures it may not affect him at all.
Be aware that all current medium format manufacturers have something in
their cameras or backs to deal with this problem to the best of their
abilities.
- Sam Sherman
....
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Medium Format Film Flatness or Not
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 11-16-2000
to: Bronica@egroups
Richard,
You are absolutely right some of the older Bronica backs had problems.
The first Bronica Deluxe/Z backs, to please Nikon (who didn't want their
great lenses to get a bad reputation because of problems with Bronica's
backs) have a retractable pressure bar which stretches the film tight and
then removes on winding. You can take really sharp photos on an old
Bronica Deluxe and they do not have finder foam problems as the
groundglass is locked down tight with screw clamps.
The S backs also had this pressure bar, but the S is an inferiors camera
in many other ways.
The C, S2 and S2A all had this film flatness problem.
The Pentacon 6 has this problem as do other 6x6 SLR and TLR models.
It was only because I wanted to perfect my 3 cameras that I discovered the
problems.
Yes, the EC and ECTL use a similar insert to the improved S2A insert and
they should be pretty good on flatness.
The only way to know is to test your backs and cameras.
On removable backs which can wind film - Bronica S series, EC series,
Hasselblad, Kiev etc.- use the removed back and remove the dark slide by
pressing in on the silver button (if there is one) which locks the slide
in. Then rolling the film through to exposure one - press in on the film
in the gate and see if it is flat against the pressure plate, raised up or
rippled. Next push a screwdriver into the counter lock slot and turn to
numbers 2 to whatever. You can see the differences from frame to frame.
On camera like Pentax 67, Pentacon 6, Kiev 60 etc. load film and set
shutter to B - remove lens and use a plastic pen and press in from the
front onto the film and see if it is flat against the pressure plate or
puffed up forward or rippled. You will see lots of problems there. Be
careful not to let the shutter close on the pen. (Same method for Bronica
"C").
I have never depended on 120 cameras because of this until now. My S2, S2A
and C all have this mostly corrected and I can take critically sharp
pictures with them.
- Sam Sherman
[Ed. note: a cautionary note for buyers wanting to use rentals to
supplement Bronica purchases...]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000
From: "LAWRENCE REISS" [email protected]
Subject: The poop on SQa lenses
Recently I tried to rent 150 F4 and 180 F4.5 PS Zenza lenses in New York
City for the Bronica Sqa in order to help with a purchase decision and I
was surprised to discover that I could not find a rental source. Dealers
said that Bronica is no longer popular and that their lenses are soft.
On the other hand I have heard good things from some users, including Tim
Schooler on this list, who has been generous with his comments.
What's the story here?
And if anyone would care to put in there two cents on these particular
lenses, or the 50 Ps I'd be grateful... My ever so solicitous dealer
suggested that I get out of the SQ system rather then get further into it.
I shoot a lot of portraits of kids and adults, and some cats. Some are
shot outdoors, some in their homes, but no studio work. Though the 180
has an attractive close focusing ability, I wonder if it may prove to long
for such location shooting. (I currently have an 80mm lens on the Sq, and
I have been using a Nikkor 105 on 35mm as I ever so slowly transition to
MF)
Thanks for your thoughts!
From Bronica Topica List;
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000
From: Ron Baker [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Zenza Bronica SQ-A/Ai vs. Hasselblad 500
Hi Uwe
I've had experience with the Hasselblad and it's a great system the only
thing that is a problem is the fact that as I was building the system I
stop and took a look at what I had invested, about $10,000.00 and still
didn't have everything I need or wanted. The Carl Zeiss lenses are as fine
an optic as you can get,especially the T* lenses. since I wasn't using the
system professionally or to make a living I decided to liquidate the
Hasseblad equipment and for a about $1000.00 I was able to put together a
Bronica S2 system with the following Items Bronica S2 body, Three 120-220
backs, Bellows, Grip, 50mm f2.8, 75mm f2.8, 100mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5 and a
200mm f4.0 with a Nikkor close up lens specifically designed for the 200mm
Nikkor, and metal a case. To that I added an acumate screen that I had
left from the Hasselblad and a Kiev Metered prism which I modified both to
fit the S2 Body. I can't give you any information on the SQA or AI but if
the newer Zezanon lenses are anything like the older ones I would say it
would be awfully hard to justify going to Hasseblad. The older Nikkor
lenses and the older Zenzanons are very got sharp lenses. You might like
to check out my web site.
Ron Baker
http://www.ronbakerphotography.com
From Contax Mailing list:
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000
From: "Felix Lopez de Maturana" [email protected]
Subject: RE:[CONTAX] Good lucks, bad lucks
Bronica also had a old
model of MF camera called "S2", under 30000 yen ($260). If I'd have
it, I'll do S2 weekend again?
Muchan,
Be carefully please. Old Bronica S2 breaks easily. Some pieces inside are
in brass. Do prefer S2A where they changed to steel. And Bronica EC-TL is
the only 6x6 SLR with automatic exposure, aperure priority ever bulit. You
can also find out some marvelous old Nikkor lenses for these cameras from
40mm to 1200mm. If this matter is interesting for you please email me as I
have been user of this system last 25 years and I'll be pleased to help
you.
Kind regards
FTlix
From Contax Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] Good lucks, bad lucks
> From: "Felix Lopez de Maturana" [email protected]
> Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE:[CONTAX] Good lucks, bad lucks
>
> Be carefully please. Old Bronica S2 breaks easily. Some pieces inside are in
> brass. Do prefer S2A where they changed to steel. And Bronica EC-TL is the
> only 6x6 SLR with automatic exposure, aperure priority ever bulit. You can
> also find out some marvelous old Nikkor lenses for these cameras from 40mm
> to 1200mm. If this matter is interesting for you please email me as I have
> been user of this system last 25 years and I'll be pleased to help you.
>
> Kind regards
I used to use S2A Bronica professionally. While the Nikkor lenses were
great and are still good by today's standards, the cameras vibrate too
much during exposure and can only deliver really sharp photos when used on
a sturdy tripod.
The Bronica EC-TL may have been the first with aperture priority auto
exposure, but Rollei and Hasselblad have them today. The EC-TL had a
two-piece reflex mirror. The intent was to eliminate image cutoff at the
top with long lenses, but it proved impossible to keep the two mirrors
aligned and they quickly became a repairman's nightmare. This is the
camera Bronica would like to forget and leave out of their family tree!!!
Bob
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: "M. P. Brennan" [email protected]
[1] Re: Kiev Lenses
Date: Mon Jan 08 20:50:36 CST 2001
You *do* get full infinity focus.
Some adapters may have a manufacturing defect that causes loss of infinity
focus, but Mike Fourman at kievcamera.com has a Mamiya M645 body that he
tests every adapter on before he ships it. He told me, "I ship a lot of
these to places like Japan. It saves a lot of time and trouble making
sure they're right before I send them off."
-Mike
> >Do these Kiev adapters allow for full infinity focusing or does it limit you to
> >focusing at less than infinity?
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001
From: [email protected] (Thom)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: RZ67 vs Mamiya 6 or 7
"Ron" [email protected]
wrote:
>I did a little research and the comments, summarized, are that the camera
>has a brilliant design, great range of lenses, but it is rather fragile. One
>guy said it should be left to collectors.
The XL came on line when I was in VN (Combat Photographer).
We dumped the Hassies in favor of the Mamiya TLR and Bronicas. The
reason was that the Hassies couldn't take the harsh conditions and
were too fine to stand it where the looser more robust tolorances of
the TLR and Bronica SLR could.
I saw no problems with the XL there and we had them at the next base I
was on though it wasn't issued to me. I used a 4x5 press or the Lab
Rollie or my own C-3
Cheers
THOM
[Ed. note: lots of bronica s2 and later gear was also used by US forces
in Vietnam and afterward for reasons explained above - ruggedness in harsh
conditions...]
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001
From: "Felix Lopez de Maturana" [email protected]
Subject: RE:Re: Vibration, tele-converter & Screen.
....
I 've used a S2A the last 25 years ,or so, and never, never, got a blurred
pic by mirror trepidation. 99% of pics camera handheld. It is the noisiest
camera in the world, it is not the more robust but it has not got a
problem with this. I am not speaking theoretically but with thousand of
photograps taken with. EC cameras are less noisy and have less vibration
but output is quite similar.
I own Komura 2x converter and it is a good accesory.
Kind regards
FTlix
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 04 Feb 2001
Subject: Hassy Loading..?
I am not a Hassy user and I never liked the side loading backs and the
insert with the clamp design. This reminds me of the other fine cameras -
Leicas and their bottom loading. Both systems do not produce sharper
pictures because of film flatness problems.
They are harder to clean and those cameras are unable to be used with a
groundglass at the film plane to check finder alignment and such.
I have been spoiled by the easy loading Bronica S2A backs, which work just
fine. Has Hasselblad in their later backs done anything to simplify this
system with a back which opens from the back? Many other companies have
used that type of design and the backs are easier to load, clean and use.
From Contax Mailing List;
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: [CONTAX] Reply to Felix
> From: "Felix Lopez de Maturana" [email protected]
> Reply-To: [email protected]
> Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000
> Subject: RE:[CONTAX] Good lucks, bad lucks
I used to use S2A Bronica professionally. While the Nikkor lenses were
great and are still good by today's standards, the cameras vibrate too
much during exposure and can only deliver really sharp photos when used on
a sturdy tripod.
The Bronica EC-TL may have been the first with aperture priority auto
exposure, but Rollei and Hasselblad have them today. The EC-TL had a
two-piece reflex mirror. The intent was to eliminate image cutoff at the
top with long lenses, but it proved impossible to keep the two mirrors
aligned and they quickly became a repairman's nightmare. This is the
camera Bronica would like to forget and leave out of their family tree!!!
Bob
Mr.Shell
Maybe, if it is not a lot of nuisance, you want. to answer some the
following questions, if you are so kind:
1) How could you work professionally with a S2 if it is unable to really
give images sharp? Mine has made it during more than twenty-five years. I
mean give me sharp pictures.
2) Do you believe that my EC-TL camera, that by the way one can find in
good condition by a minimum fraction of what is worth a Hasselblad or
Rolleiflex, is a strange specimen because in the last years has not had
any missalignement of the two mirrors?
3) Finally is it considered bad-mannered in the international community
the not to answer personally to the emails directed to a person or to feel
badly about it is it a simple mania of the Spaniards?
Happy Christmas and New Year to everybody
Felices Pascuas y prospero ano nuevo a todos
Zorionak eta urte berrion (basque lenguage)
Sincerely
Felix
******************************************************
Sorry for the odd formatting of this message, but my cable modem is
out yet AGAIN, so I am replying via CompuServe. I'll answer your
questions in order.
1/ I was able to use the Bronica S2A professionally by always using it on
a tripod when shooting by ambient light. The vibration of the body is not
a problem in the studio because the brief duration of the electronic flash
freezes subject and camera motion. It really is impossible to use the S2A
hand held in ambient light and get really sharp images. The Nikkor lenses
are capable of producing much sharper images than the camera body allows.
After using the Bronica for a couple very frustrating years I sold the
whole system and bought a Rolleiflex SL66, which has exceptionally low
vibration and, of course, Zeiss glass.
2/ Yes, if your Bronica EC-TL still has both mirrors properly aligned it
is one of the few ever made which has kept the alignment. I was a
repairman in those days, and as soon as the camera came on the market they
started coming in for repair, and this was almost always the problem. Even
the people at Bronica openly admit that this camera was a disaster. You
may not notice that the two mirrors are not aligned if you don't
habitually use lenses longer than 150, though. That's when it really
shows up. The EC-TL did solve the problem of vibration, though, with its
simplified main mirror movement. The whole reason for this double mirror
was to solve the vibration problem.
3/ Are you saying you sent me a personal e-mail and did not get a reply?
If so, I'm sorry. I normally reply to personal notes. The last several
months have been a mess, though, with the cable modem service I got
going down all the time. I'm sure I have missed a number of e-mails
in the process of all this. My CompuServe account is almost never down,
so if you or anyone else needs to send me a personal e-mail it is best
to send it to me at [email protected] .
I'm sorry if I have offended you in my criticism of Bronica. All of the
problems I have mentioned in the early cameras are well known,
particularly in the camera repair community. This is one reason so few
repairmen will work on older Bronica equipment. I had great respect for
Mr. Zenzaburo, the founder of Bronica. He was a man with a vision and
wanted to challenge Hasselblad. Unfortunately, his designs were vastly
over engineered and resulted in rather unreliable equipment. It was not
until the S2A that the cameras began to be taken seriously.
Bob
[Ed. note: See Related post above:
- Ground Glass Fixes Tips]
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Focusing screen foam thickness S2A
Ray,
I assume this is for a Bronica S2A.
This is simplicity itself.
Once you have filed down the SQ screen to the exact size of the original
Bronica S2A screen -
then-
1- You obtain some adhesive backed felt. You can get something like what
is called "moleskin" in a pharmacy which is used as a foot product. You
cut small strips of it about 3/8" wide and as long as the side length of
the upper metal frame which goes over the screen.
2- Since you have only the one screen and not a double thickness of
groundglass and fresnel - I suggest at least a double thickness of the
felt on the underside of the frame and which touches the screen and holds
it down. If a double thickness still allows the screen some wiggle room I
suggest a triple thickness.
3- After putting the felt on this metal frame - put the screen in the
camera and put the metal frame over it pressing the screen down in place
through the open center of the metal frame and then press the metal frame
in place and replace the screws which hold it in place.
4- Now press down on the screen- is it already down at its lowest point
resting on the front and rear metal ledges? Now if not down at its lowest
point add another layer of the felt and repeat the process until the
screen is down at its lowest point and tight in place. Tap on the screen
with your finger tip to be sure it does not move in any way. Be sure the
screen is smooth side up and ring (rough) side down.
5- Now retest your focusing using your normal 75MM lens wide open and
focus on an infinity target- the image should snap into focus razor sharp
- not almost razor sharp or after razor sharp.
6- If one of these other 2 conditions exist - recheck the camera body with
shutter on B and check with a ground glass and magnifier or loupe at the
film plane to see if the infinity image snaps in exactly razor sharp.
7- If the film plane image snaps in razor sharp the camera body and lens
are okay.
8- If the image on the finder screen does not - note this -
A- if the image almost reaches infinity but does not - you may have to
remove some of the shims which may be under the screen or even remove the
ledges at north and south and add a shim.
B- If the image is focusing past infinity - you will have to add some thin
shims to position the screen exactly at infinity.
More of this can be read at Bob Monaghan's Bronica site-
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica/html
Keep us advised with your results straight through some crisp images shot
on film.
- Sam Sherman
>From: "Ray Chan" [email protected]
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: [Bronica] Focusing screen foam thickness S2A
>Date: Thu, Feb 15, 2001
>
>Hello Bob M. , Sam and the rest of the group.
>
>I dismantle the groundglass and thru enough, there wasn't any frensel lens.
>I just drop in the SQ grid screen and voila! The whole screen is evenly
>lighted and no more dark corners!
>
>While I file /sand down the top & bottom tip of the screen, could someone
>tell me what's the foam thickness as the foam on the frame has deteriorated
>and would need to replace them. Perhaps a figure where I can start with and
>slowly thin it from there.
>
>
>TIA,
>
>Ray Chan
From Bronica Mailing List;
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001
From: "Ray Chan" [email protected]
Subject: Bronica SQ-Ai screen installation on S2A.
Hello list,
Finally, I managed to fit the SQ-Ai grid screen on my S2A.
This modification will enhance the usefulness of these classic cameras.
Here's how I proceed:
1. Remove 2 screws on the 'North' side of the black frame that presses
down on the focusing screen.
2. Remove the other 2 screws on the 'south' side of the frame that also
holds the stainless steel plate which engaged the finder.
3. Lift out the black frame, back up first.
4. I used a sandpaper to sand down the edges of the new screen. Put the
sandpaper on a flat surface and hold the new screen perpendicular to the
surface. Push & pull along the direction of the screen's edge.
5. I sanded down the protruding edge on the 'north' side of the new
screen plus a further 1mm a long the whole edge.
6. The 'south' side needed also needed 1 mm off.
7. The 'east' & 'west' side do not need any sanding down. Remember to use
a blower to remove any particulars every 15 seconds or so, to keep the
screen dust free from built-up.
8. One size is correct, it's time to align the focusing as describe on
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica/html
I was blessed that my existing foam thickness was ok. I tested it with my
Nikor 200/4 at infinity and was ok. Will take a test roll soon. It took me
about 30 minutes for the whole thing!
Free to ask me, if you wanna try.
Thanks everyone!
Ray Chan
From: "Geo" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A or EC-TL?
I got an EC-TL outfit (50mm, 135mm, 200mm, extension ring set) for $1000.
a few years ago and never looked back. It's worked flawlessly thru almost
200 rolls. Where else can you get a TTL metering outfit for $1000? The
meter (at least in my model) is very close to spot and agrees closely with
my Sekonic 328. The only down side is close focus is not very close with
longer lenses (135 & above) so I find myself using extension rings for
portraits sometimes. Since the rings are not automatic it's not very
convenient but workable. I haven't done a double blind placebo controlled
study but sharpness is excellent in my anecdotal studies. And take the
battery out at the end of the day; it'll last a lot longer.
_George_
Natural Light Black & White Photography
http://www.accesshub.net/~naturalight
From Bronica Mailing List;
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: New S2A User w/ 2 Questions
Bryan,
First of all, I am not an expert on Bronica serial numbers.
Secondly, all that has been written on this is, I believe, without factory
information as to why what was true. So, much of this is guesswork in
attempting to figure out production numbers and years of manufacture.
I can only tell you what I know.
In Japan the Bronica S2 and the Bronica S2A cameras are both considered to
be one model.
In short, one model with changes made during its production run. We are
told that the main changes causing the model classification of S2A are the
stronger wind gears with larger and fewer teeth with a lock locking on
three teeth instead of one. Plus an overwind clutch which slips further
after locking to avoid stripping the gears if one does not stop winding.
Now, that is 3 changes or improvements. I read that Bronica claimed 144
improvements to the S2A models over the S2. I do not believe it.
Much of this has to do with Bronica's poor image in the US and the attempt
to clear out the S2 models in stock and later come in with an upgraded
S2A, which although it looked almost the same as an S2, was supposed to be
a solid, unbreakable camera.
I have a Bronica S2 with serial number 51,xxx and a Bronica S2A with
serial number 94,xxx and followed by S2A. The last made S2A models had the
neckstrap posts (without the wings) like EC/ECTL and dropped the S2A from
the serial number.
My S2 works just fine and I anticipate when the wind locks up and slow
down my winding - never have a problem.
Re- 12/24 backs. I find that on classic S2A Bronica type backs that the
120 and 220 film comes out equally sharp.
While various companies may claim some real reason for making two types of
back, I maintain it is sheer nonsense to force the user to buy two types
of backs. The history of photography is replete with needless products
claimed to be superior to earlier products- only used to sell something
new in the marketplace.
- Sam Sherman
>From: "Bryan Logan" [email protected]
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: [Bronica] New S2A User w/ 2 Questions
>Date: Sun, Mar 11, 2001, 3:33 PM
>
>I've recently acquired a Bronica S2A and have two questions.
>
>1) According to the info on Bob Monaghan's site, S2A serial numbers
>should follow one of these two patterns:
>
> S2A before 1969: CB9****S2A, CB10****s2A, CB11****
> S2A After that: CB15****, CB16****, CB17****.
>
>The camera I have follows neither pattern. Its serial number is
>CB87***S2A. Can anyone tell me where this model fits in the S2A
>lineup? The owner's manual, which came with the camera, is undated.
>
>The second question is more one of curiosty: The film backs of these
>early Bronicas are of the dual (120/220) format. Why has this
>concept not been carried down to current camera systems by any
>manufactuer? Was there some flaw in the implementation of this
>feature that made the camera makers shy away from it, or is it just a
>matter of forcing the consumer into another after-market purchase for
>the additional film-type capability?
>
>Thanks for any replies.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Wwgormly)
Date: Sun Apr 01 2001
[1] Re: Bronica S2
The Bronica "C" was a sometimes troublesome camera because of the fragile
gear system that advanced the film. The EC has the strange double mirror
arrangement that occasionally needs repair. But the S2 has a good
reputation if you can find one that hasn't been abused. A lot of problems
can be traced to ham-fisted photogs who turn the film winding handle on
Bronicas like they're cranking an old Model A. I jokingly blame Nikon for
a lot of medium format problems. Those of us who owned Nikon Fs and F2s
were used to dropping them two flights of stairs and then to continue
shooting as though nothing had happened. When we switched to medium format
we assumed you could expect the same sort of recovery - not so.
From Nikon Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001
From: Felix_pez_de_Maturana [email protected]
Subject: [NIKON] RE: Medium format: Hasselblad
"A more realistic comparison is how the Hasselblad system compares to a
Mamiya, Pentax or Bronica system. Again Zeiss lenses may have a technical
edge, but it is possible that the difference is not easily discernable.
Would you notice the difference?"
Cathal,
A nice and complete replay. As I am a owner and user of a full set of
cameras and lenses 6x6 Hasselblad and Bronica let me add that referring
bodies Hassy is much more tough but concerning lenses Nikkor old lenses
for Bronica S2A and EC admit the comparison. If you wish to start a mTdium
format equipment, second hand Bronica with Nikkor lenses is a unbeatable
equipment concering price/quality. If you are a pro you need some more
rude [rugged] gear so go to Hasselblad. Just my opinion as user,
Kind regards
FTlix
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Date: Wed May 16 00:01:47 CDT 2001
[1] Re: Bronica 12/24 back question
If you are having good results with the Bronica S2 with 120 film, rest
assured you will have good results with 220 film.
Only the counter changes, nothing changes in the pressure plate and it
will be just fine.
Be sure to check Bob Monaghan's Classic Bronica site for sharp focus
questions and other Bronica S2 subjects-
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
From Bronica Mailing List;
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001
From: "Ken" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Anybody left out there with Bronica?
Hi Sam,
To answer your question in a word, Yes ! As a matter of fact, it was
reading some of your postings and the wealth of information on Bob's
site that helped me with my decision to buy into the old S2A's. I've
been able to build a nice versatile system that I'm very happy with.
Built like a tank (love the feel of it) and holding up quite nicely.
And the lenses are just beautiful, especially my Nikkors. I hope to
use them for a long time to come... Regards,
Ken
...
From: "Eugene A. Pallat" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001
Subject: Re: Should I bring my 500C/M to Australia?
...
> > I have a full set of 24x36 equipment from 15mm to 300mm lenses.
> > Then I have an old 500C/M + A12 with a brand new CFE 80/2.8 + original
> > polarizer......
I would take it. I've taken some great landscapes with a Bronica S2A with
a 75mm Nikon lens which comparable to the 80mm Blad lens. There's nothing
like square inches of film size.
Once I took the Bronica when skiing in Aspen and one of my friends asked
why I didn't take a camera you could ski with. I told him "I'm skiing
with it. If you want to tag along, fine. If not, bye." Later, when he
saw some of the 16x20s, he said he'd never complain again.
Gene Pallat
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001
From: "Kelvin" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Dark Slide Holder
We discussed this some time back on the Kiev88 list.
For that camera, we can go to a stationary shop and buy
those plastic binder spines which are sold seperately from
the file. Cut it to appropriate size, and stick it with double-sided
tape to the back of the filmback.
From Bronica Mailing List;
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Screen and old Nikkor.
Ray,
Re: Bronica S2A type screens-
This consists of a Groundglass on top and a Plastic Fresnel lens under it
with the ring side facing up. That is the standard position for such
combinations. The fresnel gives more light on the sides and in the corners
especially.
The normal waist level finder with its magnifier are just great for
getting sharp focus with this type of screen. If you have an old Bronica
Prism finder - forget it - they are poor and hard to focus with and very
dim - use the Waist Level finder or better still get a High Magnification
finder.
If this is all still too dim - have a professional camera repairman
replace the screen combination with a Bronica SQ screen (inexpensive)
which is very bright and he will have to do a little filing with it.
Has your finder foam been replaced? See my articles on this on Bob
Monaghan's site-
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
Re- Nikkor lenses and coating-
The normal 75MM is called Nikkor P. (normal coating) there is a later
version called Nikkor P. (multicoated) and a Nikkor HC (multicoated -
RARE- and 6 elements instead of 5).
However a good sample of the normal 75MM (test a few - some can be better)
can vary from very good to excellent. Yes, a good Nikkor P. is a superb
lens - you need no more.
I do not know if the other Nikkor lenses were also multicoated - you may
want to get and see Tony Hilton's Bronica book - he may list it there.
Some later Zenzanon lenses for old Bronicas are multicoated- but I have
the 100MM f2.8 Zenzanon (normal coating) and I cannot imagine a sharper
lens.
- Sam Sherman
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001
From: "Eugene A. Pallat" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Purchasing first medium format camera, used
Ladagency wrote:
> Mamiya C330
> Bronica S2
> Kowa Super 6
>
> Those are collectable and usable systems found at a good price and with
> excellent optics.
I would recommend against the Bronica S2 and get the S2A. The S2 had very
smooth gears for cocking the shutter and advancing the film, but they wore
out quickly. The S2A corrected the problem I had an S2A and the only
problem it had was noise- very loud. It has an advantage of an internal
focal plane shutter so that the lenses and bellows cost a lot less. In
addition to the 75mm Nikon lens, I had Komura 45mm and 150mm lenses and
they were very good. Several 40x50s were made from shots with the 150.
> Pentax 67 comes to mind as well RB Mamiya's.
These are good cameras, but the poster didn't want to spend a lot of
money. These might be considered later.
I would suggest the Mamiya C330 for its low cost and availability. It's
an excellent camera.
Gene Pallat
From: "Eugene A. Pallat" <[email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Better Enlargements from MF vs 35mm
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001
Even though there should be the same amount of silver per square cm in the
negatives, there seems to be a difference.
Years ago, I made a snap shot of a friend at a wine and cheese party to test
the
new Ilford Pan-F in 120 with a Bronica S2a with a 75mm Nikkor lens.
I made a mask for the 120 that was around 35mm square and enlarged it with a
50mm f/2.8 EL-Nikkor to a 16x20. It was razor sharp - "count every wisker."
See Bob Monaghan's web site for my comments.
I've also made some great 40x50's. There just seems to be something about MF.
Since then I've replaced the S2A with Blad equipment.
Of course, If you really want *interesting* results, there's always LF. ;-)
Tri-X is a relativly "fine grain" film in 8x10.
Gene Pallat
From: [email protected]
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002
From: "Dale Leeper" [email protected]>
Subject: Re: Fixing a Nikkor 5cm 3.5 lens for S2
I have been having trouble getting all my email lately, so I might have
missed a post or two from this thread, but I will report what I did to fix
this lens. As you recall, I had a diaphragm that did not want to open
quickly after the shutter was released. With some experimentation, I found
that the front element group unscrews to expose the top of the diaphragm,
and the back group of elements also unscrew, leaving just the diaphragm in
the lens barrel. I did find that there was oil in the blades, mostly along
the leading edges, so it didn't show very well. I applied naphtha gently
with a q-tip on both sides, then used canned air to blow it out as gently as
possible and let it air out for a day. This cleaning let the diaphragm snap
quickly open.
The next day, I reassembled the lens and it seemed to work fine, until I put
it back on the camera body, and it seemed to slow down again. I found that
on my focus helical, that the tab that moves the diaphragm was a bit draggy,
so I took a needle nose pliers and bent it ever so slightly to reduce the
drag on the side of the helical. Now the diaphragm snaps back into place as
it should.
Please note that I am not a camera repairman, and that anything you do to
your own lens is at your own risk. I realized that risk but did not have
much invested in the lens.
* Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002
> From: "adrianpateman" [email protected]>
> Subject: Re: Fixing a Nikkor 5cm 3.5 lens for S2
>
> Hi there
>
> I don't have a specific answer to your problem, just an observation
> that might muddy the waters a little for you!
>
> I have an S2A and a 50mm f3.5 like you. Also, like you, the diaphragm
> on this lens doesn't seem to want to open up too quickly after
> tripping the shutter or using the DoF preview- it takes maybe =BE to a
> full second to open up again. This happens to a much lesser extent on
> my 75mm Nikkor and not at all on my 150mm Komura.
>
> I have since taken a look at all three lenses off camera. The
> diaphragm, in its state of rest, is wide open on all 3 lenses. Moving
> the pin on the side of the lens stops it down to the selected
> aperture (this is in opposition to eg Pentax 35mm lenses which are
> stopped down when at rest). When I move the pin manually on my 50mm
> and release, the diaphragm springs back open immediately with no
> hesitation whatsoever. Yet put it back on the camera, press the DoF
> button and we're back to the 1-second delay.
Take a look at the tab that moves this pin in the focus helical, it should
move freely. It is possible that it binds a little on the focus body. If
you take the lens and focus mount off the camera, there is a pin to the
right of the mirror that moves the diaphragm mechanism. On my camera it
springs back after the dof button is released. Now, on the focus helical
back side there is a blade that the pin in the body pushes against. Without
a lens it should move freely back and forth on the focus mechanism. With a
lens mounted, the spring in the lens diaphragm should spring the whole
mechanism to the open position. If it fails to do so, yet when the
diaphragm snaps shut when unmounted, then there is too much drag inside the
focus linkage. The tab that contacts the lens diaphragm pin follows the
curve of the body of the helical. Mine was in the slightest of bind, which
kept it from moving freely.
Hope this helps.
> This leads me to a supposition (and I hope that someone who knows
> more than me will jump in here). There must be a linkage in the body
> that presses down this pin prior to exposure, or when using the DoF
> preview, and releases it afterwards. There must also be a spring
> linked to the actuation pin that opens the lens back up again. Now
> what if this spring has lost its springiness or the body linkage has
> stiffened up over the years? In this case the spring would be
> struggling to push the pin against the resistance provided by the
> link in the body. Presumably this would result in the problems that
> we are experiencing. My suspicion is that it is the spring in the
> lens because the severity of the problem I have seems to be in direct
> proportion to the age of the 3 lenses I have.
>
> I don't know if any of this squares with the experiences you have had
> but I suspect that a remedy might be outside the scope of an
> enthusiastic amateur (or a ham fisted one like me!)
>
> If you have any thoughts on the matter, drop me a line.
>
> Adrian Pateman
From: ChrisQ [email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A Screen Replacement
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001
Robert Monaghan wrote:
>
> folks like Beattie etc. will custom cut a screen to fit most med fmt
> SLRs. Lots of other examples of modifications by users, viz:
>
> an accu-matte screen on an s2a project example:
> http://home.kscable.com/bakerphotograph/cameras.htm
>
> an SQAI screen on bronica S2A:
> http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronnotes.html#rayscreen
>
> and Sam Sherman's tips on remounting SQ bright screen to S2A at:
> http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronnotes.html#fixscrn
>
> from http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronnotes.html
>
> From Bronica Digest:
> Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000
> From: Chris Cardinal [email protected]
> Subject: Intenscreen for S2
>
> Hello all. This may or may not be common knowledge, so I thought I'd pass
> it along to the group. I recently contacted Beattie
> regarding an Intenscreen for my S2a. While they no longer list it on their
> web site (www.intenscreen.com) or in their product
> literature, they are more than happy to make one for you with or without
> grid lines. I'm not sure of pricing, but you can contact
> the sales rep at "John Taddeo" [email protected]
>
> Chris :^)
> [email protected]
> =====
>
> see http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronnotes.html#oldeyes
>
> other options see mf/vision.html
>
> hope this helps bobm
Many thanks for the pointers. Have in fact spent quite a bit of time
at your excellent site, but thought this would be the best way to get
a quick answer. The Beattie screens seem very expensive, so will
probably try to find an SQ or SQAI screen and modify to fit.
The S2A is the first real foray into MF here. Bought a Yashica A last
year at a local auction for 5 ukp and was amazed at how sharp the
prints looked from such an old camera. Guess this planted the seed of
an idea and after several months of research, eventually resulted in
the S2A purchase. Use all mechanical 35mm stuff and really wanted a
similar beast in MF. Liked the idea of an instant return mirror,
Nikkor lenses and the S2A is about as late as you can get in Bronica
while still being all mechanical and with focal plane shutter. Prices
are also quite reasonable if you are trying to work within a limited
budget and there always seem to be accessories and lenses on Ebay, so
took the plunge. As for problems, one would expect bad foam with any
camera of this age. The only other problem has been with the back
cover, which has a tab which only just engages with the new foam
(maybe too thick ?) and results in no film advance stop if out of
adjustment. Wound on half a reel of film before realising something
was amiss here. This is now fixed though and have recently found a
like new 5X chimney finder on Ebay, so it looks like i'm being hooked
;-).
Last week carried it + lenses + accessories + tripod + 35mm kit all
the way round Blenheim Palace lake (Oxfordshire) trying to get some
good shots. Heavy, unwieldy and not so convenient to use as an SLR,
but does force you to think more about the process and to make every
shot count. MF is photography at a much more leasurely pace...
Chris
From: [email protected] (tadjjy)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Bronica S2A owners - READ
Date: 1 Nov 2001
Hi, I want to order a Beattie screen for my Bronica S2A. I want to
make a group purchase to get the best price and I am looking for other
people to go in with me. They said they'll give me the wholesale
price if I order at least 5. If you own a S2A and want to get a
beattie screen contact me off the list at my email [email protected]
and tell me if you want plain or with grid.
>Dear Sir,
>We no longer make the Bronica S2A but I checked our inventory and have some
>left. They are available either Plain or with a Grid. The wholesale price if
>ordering 5 or more would be $106.15/ea. Less then 5 would be $168.50/ea.
From: [email protected] (tadjjy)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Group Purchase-Beattie Screens(Bronica S2A)
Date: 5 Nov 2001
Hi,
I want to replace the dim viewscreen on my S2A with a brighter Beattie
screen.
I want to make a group purchase to get the best price and I am looking
for other
people to go in with me. Beatties will sell at wholesale price if we
order at least 5 screens. If you own a S2A or any Camera for that
matter, and want to get on this great deal contact me off the list at
my email [email protected]
and tell me if you want plain or with grid.
>>Dear Sir,
>>We no longer make the Bronica S2A but I checked our inventory and
>>have some left. They are available either Plain or with a Grid. The
>>wholesale price if ordering 5 or more would be $106.15/ea. Less then
>>5 would be $168.50/ea.
From: [email protected] (DOgle7351)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace.medium-format
Date: 06 Nov 2001
Subject: FS: SPT repair manual. BRONICA S2, S2A, & C
SPT repair manual. about 200 pages.line drawings. explode views of body, film
backs, bellows, prisms,TTL meter, grip, tools. and part numbers. $20.
e-mail me direct at [email protected]
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Planar comparisons
From: Bob Shell [email protected]>
To: [email protected]>
> From: [email protected]
> Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [Rollei] Planar comparisons
>
> I think I've seen somewhere that the
> early Bronicas SLRs had the same lens constraint solved with a complex
> sliding/rotating movement for the mirror, a solution eventually
> adopted by Hasselblad on the recent 500-series models.
Bronica solved the problem with a reflex mirror which slid down to the
bottom of the mirror box and forward, and was then covered with a hinged
black flap. A cloth shutter was pulled under the focusing screen at the
same time. That this complex system worked at all was amazing, that it
didn't in many cases was no surprise! The Bronica EC, last of the focal
plane shutter Bronicas, had a two piece mirror, part flipping up like
in hasselblad, and part flipping down as in their earlier cameras. It
proved impossible to keep the two parts aligned in use.
Hasselblad's system in the recent 500, 2000, and 200 cameras is not like
either of Bronica's systems. It works like the articulated mirror on the
Norita. By using an articulated mount rather than a simple hinge, the
front edge of the mirror was made to move through a backwards C shaped
arc, thus clearing the rear of the lens. While Ritttreck/Norita was first
to do this in a medium format SLR, Alpa had done it some years earlier in
35mm. I think all current 35mm SLRs use this sort of mirror movement.
Bob
From: [email protected]
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002
From: "dgoldfar" [email protected]>
Subject: Re: Kiev Spot TTL Metering prism on S2A
I'm porting this over from the photo.net Medium Format Digest, just
for the record:
So, I've gotten my prism from Mike Fourman (on eBay it's a little
cheaper than if you buy it directly from his website) and converted it
for my S2A. It's not a difficult conversion--just a matter of filing
down the mounting plate to fit, drilling two holes for the Bronica's
registration pins, and a little grinding work on the aluminum body
of the prism to make room for the Bronica rear mounting tabs and
the tab in the front. No need to sacrifice a Bronica finder for its
mounting plate. I did it all with a Dremel with router table accessory
and a hand file--no precision machining, but it works and doesn't look
terribly sloppy. An experienced machinist with appropriate equipment
could surely make something with a tighter fit than mine.
My meter was pretty accurate with my screen right out of the box,
comparing the spot reading with a reading from my Minolta Flashmeter
III with 5-degree attachment, but the Kiev meter is not as precise as
the Minolta or, say, the spot meter in my Canon F-1N. There is about a
half-stop range that the meter will register as "correct."
It also seems to handle low light better than the Bronica TTL
metering finder, and is much less bulky, and is easier to use. It is
important to remember, of course, that the Bronica TTL meter is
coupled to the shutter speed dial (by means of an astoundingly clunky
attachment), while the Kiev is totally uncoupled. An advantage of the
Kiev is that it is designed for full-aperture metering, while the
Bronica works best for stopped-down metering. The Kiev has one button
for turning on the meter and toggling between spot and averaging mode
and turns itself off, so no protruding toggle switches as on the
Bronica. It also takes a modern battery.
The Kiev prism (45-degree) is also brighter than the Bronica
90-degree prism. I don't have the Bronica 45-degree prism, so I can't
compare with that one. 45-degree prisms in general tend to be brighter
than 45-degree prisms, so it might be no better than the Bronica
45-degree prism, as a prism.
David Goldfarb
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A back question
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001
Willie [email protected]> wrote:
: When i am shooting with two different backs (12/24 s2a backs) (color 120 and
: b/w 220)
: do i have to take some precaution for changing the backs other than
: inserting the slide,
: change them and remove the slide?
: F.e. may i use the winder to go to the next frame, and after that change the
: backs?
: Thanks.
With a Bronica S2/S2A, you can change the back either before or after you
cock the shutter. You can also change the back either before or after the
film has been advanced.
The reason you can do that is also the reason it takes so many turns of the
advance knob. When you turn the knob, it first advances the film. After the
film is advanced, the shutter is cocked. If you have already advanced the
film, the knob just cocks the shutter. If the shutter has been cocked but
the film has not been advanced, the knob just advances the film.
Ray
--
E. Ray Lemar [email protected]
From: "Eugene A. Pallat" [email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Reliability of Hasselblads?
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001
autogru wrote:
> Take a look at Bronica. Can't beat them especially on the used market
I used to have a Bronica S2A with the 75mm Nikon lens. I also had the
bellows and the Kommura 45mm and 150mm lenses.
The backs can take either 120 or 220 film. The only limitation for me
was the focal plane shutter.
The S2A was interesting in that it had a split mirror. The upper half
flipped up and the lower down. Someone on the NG said it never had one.
I mentioned that to a friend who was a sales rep for EPOI who
distributed the camera. I won't repeat what he said about that poster.
Basically, it's a rugged camera and would be woth checking one out.
Gene Pallat.
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 29 Aug 2001
Subject: Re: Reliability of Hasselblads?
The Bronica Z/Deluxe through model S2A - had a single piece
mirror which fell to the camera floor and was covered by a metal cover during
exposure and then it returned to normal position.
The Bronica models EC, ECTL and ECTLII copied the split mirror from the 1954
Exakta 66 - which had the mirrored surface in two pieces one flipped up and one
flipped down.
There was no such design in the Bronica S2A.
From: "Dale Leeper" [email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A questions?
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001
The older back sounds like one from the earlier S model, which had a
curtain. The newer backs that take 220 film will not have a curtain. There
may be other models between them that I am not familiar with. I have an S2
and an S, both cameras take either back, however if you can pull the back
off the camera, there is a problem. You should not be able to pull the back
off without pushing the dark slide in.
Good luck with your camera, the Nikkor lens on mine is super sharp. I would
like to find a 135 or 150 lens for it without going broke doing so.
Here is a site with good information about these cameras.
http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
Hope this link works, seems like there may have been a change in the address
recently.
"tadjjy" [email protected]> wrote...
> I just bought an S2A with two backs. One of the backs is older than
> the other one, it might be for a different model. Anyways the older
> back has a black curtain which is extended when the slide is put in.
> The newer back doesn't have a curtain. Is this explainable or is one
> of these backs not working.
>
> Also the older back with the curtain doesn't secure very well to the
> camera, I can pulled it off. The newer back can't be pulled off. Is
> this normal for the older back?
>
> All information is welcome.
From: "Eugene A. Pallat" [email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A questions?
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001
Dale Leeper wrote:
> Good luck with your camera, the Nikkor lens on mine is super sharp. I would
> like to find a 135 or 150 lens for it without going broke doing so.
I used to have an S2A. The dealer recommended I buy the Kommura 45mm and 150mm
lenses. They were excellent. Good used ones should be available.
Gene Pallat
From: "Paul Cotnoir" [email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica success
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001
HI Bob,
Your web page is great! Keep up the good work! In the year or so since first
"discovering" your page I have become a true Bronica maniac. I have
assembled a Bronica system which includes the following:
Bronica S2A body
Nikkor 50 f/2.8
Nikkor 75
Nikkor 135
Nikkor 200
Bronica Polaroid Back
Bronica bellows with tilt/shift
Bronica reversing ring
w/l finder
eye level finder
rigid magnifying finder
several 120/220 backs
I also have "hacked" several lenses (typically using filter stepping rings,
reverse adapters, and T-mounts) including:
Voigtlander 150mm f/4.5
Leitz 135mm Hektor lens head
(I also use this lens on my Nikon FM2:)
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/index.html
I have documented these "hacks" if you are interested.
My latest accomplishments include:
Acquisition of a FANTASTIC new super-bright focusing screen from Maxwell
Precision Optics. The Maxwell screen is very bright and very easy to focus.
It can be plain matte, with or without grid lines and is also available with
focus aids (ie. split image rangefinder, microprism collar or both). The
owner, Bill Maxwell, let me know if enough (around 12+) classic Bronica
owners were interested in the screens he would be willing to discount his
prices for a group buy. A plain matte HI-Lux screen with grid lines would
probably end up costing in the neighborhood of $125 US with the discount. I
also documented my installation proceedure for the screen. It has to sit
about 30% lower in the S2A body then the current fresnel/ground glass
sandwhich that is standard on the camera.
Another recent "accomplishment" of mine is the adaptation of a Russian Kiev
88 TTL eyelevel finder (which I acquired used from our mutual friend Sam
Sherman) to the S2A. This is a nice bright finder, fairly light weight, with
a decent averaging light meter - very convenient.
Finally please check out the following scans of an interesting article I
found while perusing an old (April 1963) issue of U.S. Camera entitled:
U.S. Camera Compares: Hasselblad & Bronica. I thought you'd be interested.
Please excuse the poor quality scans.
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/hassybron1.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/hassybron2.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/hassybron3.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/hassybron4.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/hassybron5.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/Hassybron6.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/Hassybron7.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/Hassybron8.JPG
[please note my server is case sensitive and files 6,7,8 have the H on
Hassybron capitalized and the file extension .JPG is capitalized on all the
files]
Please feel free to download/share these files as you see fit.
Best regards,
Paul Cotnoir
Putnam, CT USA
Bronica enthusiast
From: "Willie" [email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: What is a good starting SLR MF camera?
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002
i bought a bronica s2a some time ago.
I had the same, want to start and not knowing if it's the right for me
Pro:
cheap
reliable
good lenses (nikkor and zenzanon)
2nd hand markt has lot of these lenses available
Cont:
heavy
You also have to get a 80 mm lens for your enlarger to print them (if you
have a darkroom)
I even started printing in color for 6x6 because the prices for 6x6 prints
are high these days.
You can through it against the wall and it will still work...
If you want to start and not spending a lot of money right away this is a
nice one to start with
"David Pawlak" [email protected]> wrote
> What is the benefit of 6x7 over 6x4.5?
> What is a good and reliable MF SLR camera system?
>
> Thanks.
>
From: "Willie" [email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: What is a good starting SLR MF camera?
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002
oops what i forgot (my hand is faster then my brain)
the backs are 12/24 that means it can hold 120 and 220 film
do not take a s2 because these had brass parts in it, the s2a is much better
From: Tasslehof [email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Bronica S2A, yet another time !
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001
Hi there,
I am an Italian amateur photographer. I recently decided to enter
medium format photo, and bought a S2A. I have read about focus problems,
and since I am a "sharp&crisp" fan I checked out my screen's foam.
Obviously enough, it had become dust :-) I bought moleskine, removed the
old foam, cleaned the screen and the fresnel lens, replaced it on the two
flexible metallic supports ("smooth" side down, is this right ?), then I
realized that the ground glass is larger than the Fresnel, so it really
doesn't stand on the flex. supports I told before. In my understanding,
the Fresnel is pushed up by those two elastic supports, then the glass has
o be pushed down by the foam, so they are in close contact. Is it right ?
Anyway, placed Moleskin as read on 'http://people.smu...' (great resource
!), screwed in the frame, focused and... Infinity was a little better.
Then I set up a target 1 meter away from the lens, focused and I
discovered the range on the lens is 1.20 meters, which is in DOF only if I
set f/22 ! The same goes with other focus distances. I am pretty sure
there _is_ enough Moleskin to press that glass down, indeed. I even tried
to remove the two small metallic supports where the glass is supposed to
"land" (they are brass-like). In that way, I am able to focus _past_
infinity, and get a focus error on my target tests (by as much as 10 cm).
What else could I do ? In the city where I live there isn't a good
repairsman, so I'd prefer not to waste a lot of money sending my camera
away... Sorry for the really bad English (I speak even worse :-) and for
the rather long mail ! Could you please reply me also to my e-mail
address, as I can't check newsgoups these days ? Thank you in advance, and
sorry again for the rather boring topic
|~~~~~~|
|(O> |\ Fabio Cavaliere (Homebrew apprentice & GLUG member)
|//\ | |
|V_/_ | | e-mail > [email protected]
|######|- GLUG on the Web : http://genova.linux.it
+------+
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 27 Dec 2001
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A, yet another time !
You have come to the right place as I wrote that post on how to fix the focus
problem.
First of all you should have 2 - screens-
One plastic Fresnel with rings on one side - this goes on the bottom.
One Ground Glass with frosted side and shiny side - this goes on the top.
Looking down from the top I think the screens may not be exactly square so you
should figure out which way they fit in the camera well and allow you to press
them down - pushing down the springs until they rest on the metal ledges at the
north and south positions.
Then - Use an ear syringe to blow some air on the inner surfaces of the
screens so that you don't have dirt on the screens.
Put in the fesnel screen first with the shiny side down and the ring side up.
Next - put in the Ground Glass screen with the shiny side up.
Without the metal frame with the moleskin - can you press the two screens down
with your fingers until they fit all of the way?
If not, you may have to turn one or the other (rotate) do not turn over.
Now if finger pressure holds them down - keep holding them down
until you have the metal frame over them and put one finger through the
open center of the metal frame to hold them down in place.
Be careful and don't crack the groundglass.
If everything is in place with the metal frame down - now put the screws in and
tighten them in place without cracking the glass.
If everything looks fine. Put back your normal 75MM lens - focus on something
far away (infinity) which should be sharp with the lens
set at infinity on your viewing screen.
Write back and let me know your progress.
Good luck,
Sam Sherman
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002
From: FTlix L=pez de Maturana [email protected]>
Subject: RE: Re: prospective new user
I am in fact a bit unsure around the lens quality- knowing so little. I
expect the first lens one gets is the standard 80 mm I'm seeing everywhere,
it tends to be the cheapest. Are there different varieties/makes of this
lens? I can't always tell from the listings.
Doug
I've used for many time either a S2A and a EC-TL (stronger that many people
think about) and the quality of the lenses is really good. This testimony
could be without any interest if wasn't the case I'm too a user of a full
equipment of Hasselblad from 38mm up to 250mm. Believe me the quality of
Nikkor lenses for Bronica (the only lenses I have for this cameras) does
not
suffer from the comparison with Carl Zeiss lenses.
Kind regards
FTlix
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002
From: "dgoldfar" [email protected]>
Subject: Re: prospective new user
--- In Bronica@y..., Doug Durant durantenge@r...> wrote:
> thanks to all for the responses.It is good to hear some positives around
> picture quality- since in my looking about, I've seen very few pics from
> Bronicas.
>
> I am in fact a bit unsure around the lens quality- knowing so little. I
> expect the first lens one gets is the standard 80 mm I'm seeing everywhere,
> it tends to be the cheapest. Are there different varieties/makes of this
> lens? I can't always tell from the listings.
As Sam suggests, check out Bob Monaghan's site for lots of info on
Bronicas and available lenses. I have the Nikkor 50/3.5, 75, 135 (my
favorite), and 200, a Komura 300/5.0, and an adapted Voigtlander
Heliar 240mm lens, as well as a few others I've adapted for macro use.
The Nikkor lenses are quite decent and very affordable, and you can
get a Nikkor 40mm lens for about 1/5 the cost of a Hasselblad SWC
(38mm).
I'm ambivalent about the prism finders and the TTL metering finder,
but the WL finder and the 5x chimney finders are great. I also highly
recommend the L-grip and the T-grip as options with either a prism or
the 5x finder.
12/24 backs are also cheap--about $80 a piece in good working order,
so you can afford to apply the zone system or juggle film types
without breaking the bank, if that attracts you.
I have a few Bronica photos posted on my photo.net gallery. Not great
scans, but they'll give you an idea:
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=471537&size=lg
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=175946&size=lg
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=116937&size=lg
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=472288&size=lg
I just ordered a drum scan and Lightjet print of the first one (approx
14x17").
David Goldfarb
from Nikon MF Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002
From: "kryten_camille" [email protected]>
Subject: Re: Nikkor lenses on non-Nikon cameras
The Bronica S2a is a fine all mechanical camera and an inexpensive way
to use medium format with Nikkor lenses among others. I prefer to use
my Bronica S2a(s) rather than my Nikon 35 equipment when conditions
permit. The mechanical Bronica is a heavy camera and far from quiet
but what a great negative. You can enlarge to a 16x20 and larger with
ease. Many feel that the Nikkor lenses made for Bronica are equal to
the lenses made for Hasselblad.
for more info see:
http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronica.html
Stephen
...
from bronica mailing list:
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica focal plane shutter models becoming scarce
As a longtime focal plane shutter Bronica user/collector I have been
watching trends in this field.
Bob Monaghan's great Bronica/medium format website has inspired much
further interest in the subject-
www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html
I have been viewing Ebay auction, Shutterbug advertisers and other sources
and have noted that focal plane shutter Bronica cameras and lenses and
accessories are more rare now than a year ago or two years ago.
The breakdown-
Bronica Deluxe and Z - now a valuable collectible - too valuable to use
and risk breaking
Bronica S - known trouble maker - not heavily used (many junked) - a Mint
one a good collector's item only
Bronica C - clean ones good to use
Bronica S2 - clean ones are good to use - replacement choice for those who
can't find or afford an S2A don't mistreat the wind and it is equally
good.
Bronica S2A - Most desired of the mechanical cameras - clean and Mint ones
go fast
Bronica EC-
Bronica ECTL-
Bronica ECTL2 -
(the 3 types) the most modern cameras -electronic shutters/auto-exposure-
will use the old lenses - clean ones go fast.
Lenses the same things apply - Rare lenses sell fast - common Nikkors in
Mint condition too.
Time also works against this as cameras are lost, broken and junked -
taken out of the potential supply pool.
When these almost all dry up I can suggest a Brand New Kiev 88CM (Pentacon
6 Mount, cloth shutter) for about the cost of a used Bronica S2. These are
quickly becoming the next Medium Format cult camera. Most are now well
made - there is service in the US and they can be bought with a Warranty
from Kiev Camera. The pool of lenses Kiev/Arsat, Hartblei, Schneider,
Zeiss Jena is wide and pros are now using them for fashion and other work.
With the new low cost shift lenses they are also used for architectural
photography too.
As a Bronica user, I am also now experimenting with Kiev 88 models with
good results-
I have done a critical comparison of Kiev 88 vs. Bronica S2A - on Bob
Monaghan's site - and also an extended review of the Kiev 88CM.
I continue to use both the older Bronica and newer Kiev models.
- Sam Sherman
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002
From: mike albright [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: bronica
Hey man, what is Bronica doing? Why are they not on
the digital wagon? Everyone has a back for their dig.
camera but Bronica. I want to go digital, and I have
to trade in my Bronica equip.; only to here from the
camera shops that it not worth much. About 20 cents on
the dollar. And all the dig. back manufac. make them
for all but Bronica. What is the problem? Do you want
to go out of bus? I talked to a friend the other day
wanting to sell his Bronica equip. and the store told
him good luck, that he would have to give it away, and
then he might not have any takers. I sure would like
to know what's going on, I'm moving up to dig. very,
very soon. [email protected]
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Newbie question
I have an S2, and I have had no problems using it whatsoever. The concern is
that if you abuse the gears, there is a danger of stripping them, but I use
it a lot and carefully and have never had a problem.It's a wonderful sturdy
well made camera but heavy as hell, so I hope you have a good back!! It's
solid metal. It takes magnificent pictures and I recommend my camera highly.
I've had nothing but positive experiences with it. I would recommend though
that if you get it, get an eye level prism for it also, because the
waistlevel finder is a pain. Marie
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: The Bronica book @ Amazon
Hi,
the Complete Bronica User's Guide book is no longer $19.95 at Amazon. It now
sells for $32.95 :(
regards//hawke
_______________________________
hso | Hskan Sj�
tnp | Telenordia Privat AB
cel | +46-(0)706-010 601
eml | [email protected]
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 03:48:10
From: Paul Cotnoir
To: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica success
HI Bob,
Your web page is great! Keep up the good work! In the year or so since first
"discovering" your page I have become a true Bronica maniac. I have
assembled a Bronica system which includes the following:
Bronica S2A body
Nikkor 50 f/2.8
Nikkor 75
Nikkor 135
Nikkor 200
Bronica Polaroid Back
Bronica bellows with tilt/shift
Bronica reversing ring
w/l finder
eye level finder
rigid magnifying finder
several 120/220 backs
I also have "hacked" several lenses (typically using filter stepping rings,
reverse adapters, and T-mounts) including:
Voigtlander 150mm f/4.5
Leitz 135mm Hektor lens head
(I also use this lens on my Nikon FM2:)
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/index.html
I have documented these "hacks" if you are interested.
My latest accomplishments include:
Acquisition of a FANTASTIC new super-bright focusing screen from Maxwell
Precision Optics. The Maxwell screen is very bright and very easy to focus.
It can be plain matte, with or without grid lines and is also available with
focus aids (ie. split image rangefinder, microprism collar or both). The
owner, Bill Maxwell, let me know if enough (around 12+) classic Bronica
owners were interested in the screens he would be willing to discount his
prices for a group buy. A plain matte HI-Lux screen with grid lines would
probably end up costing in the neighborhood of $125 US with the discount. I
also documented my installation proceedure for the screen. It has to sit
about 30% lower in the S2A body then the current fresnel/ground glass
sandwhich that is standard on the camera.
Another recent "accomplishment" of mine is the adaptation of a Russian Kiev
88 TTL eyelevel finder (which I acquired used from our mutual friend Sam
Sherman) to the S2A. This is a nice bright finder, fairly light weight, with
a decent averaging light meter - very convenient.
Finally please check out the following scans of an interesting article I
found while perusing an old (April 1963) issue of U.S. Camera entitled:
U.S. Camera Compares: Hasselblad & Bronica. I thought you'd be interested.
Please excuse the poor quality scans.
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/hassybron1.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/hassybron2.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/hassybron3.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/hassybron4.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/hassybron5.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/Hassybron6.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/Hassybron7.JPG
http://pages.cthome.net/pdcmec/Hassybron8.JPG
[please note my server is case sensitive and files 6,7,8 have the H on
Hassybron capitalized and the file extension .JPG is capitalized on all the
files]
Please feel free to download/share these files as you see fit.
Best regards,
Paul Cotnoir
Putnam, CT USA
Bronica enthusiast
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002
From: David Goldfarb [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: Re: WOw! Thanks! Re: Bronica S TTL Manual
Bob,
I've put them up on my website. Just go to:
http://www.echonyc.com/~goldfarb/temp/Bronica/Index.html
and all the pages will appear as inline jpegs. Just right-click to
save. Let me know when you've downloaded them, so I can clear them off
(my website host doesn't usually charge extra if I go over my limit for a
few days and take things off).
I've also found the instruction sheet for the L-Grip in case you don't
have that one. Handy to have, I found out--I didn't realize until I got
the L-grip that that hole on the bottom of the S2A was a second
shutter-release socket.
Thanks again for maintaining such a useful resource.
Best,
David
[Ed. note: a major thanks!!! to Dr. Shinsaku Hiura for providing these great Bronica and Nikkor
medium format lens sites, along with his related Med Fmt camera pages (Plaubel, Airesflex..]
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002
From: Shinsaku HIURA [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: New "Nikkor lenses for Medium Format cameras" site
Hello, Robert Monaghan,
I am Shinsaku Hiura, a camera enthusiast in Japan.
Today I introduce my new www site by myself, at
http://www.ne.jp/asahi/shinsaku/hiura/camera/mednikkor/index-e.html
Partially I am now translating, but I think you would be interested in
two Airesflex and Marshal Press with nikkor lens as bronicas.
I also own Bronica-D and almost all Nikkor lenses now.
Therefore, would you like to change the links on your www site?
Top page,
http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronica.html
at Shinsaku Hiura's Nikkor for Medium Format
and
http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronusers.html
at Shinsaku Hiura
Actually my translation is very slow, and you can not read some articles
in English, please excuse me.
Thanks, and best regards,
Shinsaku Hiura
----
Shinsaku HIURA (Dr. Eng.)
Department of Systems and Human Science,
Graduate School of Engineering Science,
Osaka University
1-3, Machikaneyama, Toyonaka 560-8531 JAPAN
TEL:+81-6-6850-6372 FAX:+81-6-6850-6341
http://www-inolab.sys.es.osaka-u.ac.jp/users/shinsaku
[Ed. note: special thanks to Jeremy J. Sutton for sharing this online manual resource!]
> From: Jeremy J Sutton
> Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002
> Subject: Another Favor
>
> Kathy and/or Pete -
>
> Hopefully you haven't deleted the PDF Kathy made for me this morning,
> because it is 1 Meg and my hotmail account can't email :(. Could one of you
> please email it to this guy on my behalf ? Might need to zip it?
>
> TO: [email protected]
> SUBJECT: Bronica S2A Manual
>
> Hello Mr. Monaghan -
>
> I'd like to offer your Bronica users a PDF manual for the Bronica S2A that
> I recently purchased my first medium format camera, Bronica S2A, and wanted
> a manual I could carry around with me as I got acquainted with my new
> camera.
>
> And thanks to your site and especially Mike Bond for making the manual
> available in an online format, I was able to take Mr. Bond's work and
> reformat for the sake of printing.
>
> I hope you'll consider making it available for download ... and it serves as
> an additional resource for Bronica S2A owners.
>
> Best,
> Jeremy Sutton
> [email protected]
[Ed. note: Thanks also to David Goldfarb for providing these Leaf shutter resources!]
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002
From: David Goldfarb [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: Bronica 105mm/f:3.5 LS manual
Bob,
It looks like I have another instruction sheet for you, if you don't
already have it, for the Bronica/Nikkor 105mm/f:3.5 Leaf Shutter lens.
If you want it, let me know, and I'll scan it and email it to you. It's
just two pages.
Best,
David Goldfarb
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 14 Oct 2001
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A Screen Replacement
This is all easier than it sounds - don't make it difficult for yourself.
Got to a camera repair shop and get a 6x6cm piece of groundglass. Epoxy a small
loupe to the shiny side.
Place the camera on a tripod - use a tele lens if you have one or the normal
lens, then-
1- Remove the back set camera to B - use locking cable release to hold shutter
open.
2- Replace back - have lens set wide open - remove slide and insert-
put groundglass on the film rails-
3- Focus on an infinity target - lens should be set to infinity if it is okay
and see that it is sharp on the groundglass.
4- Now release the cable release and the mirror returns and adjust the finder
groundglass until it is sharp. If you have the original groundglass/fresnel
unit - note:
The fresnel goes in first on the bottom with the shiny side down - circle side
up. The groundglass goes on top of it with the shiny side up.
This is easier to do than write about - you should get it right quickly.
Good luck.
- Sam Sherman
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001
From: FTlix L=pez de Maturana [email protected]
Subject: RE: S2/S2A TTL Meter Finder
>I recently obtained a TTL Meter Finder for the Bronica S2/S2A and have
>it about half figured out, but could use a few tips. I searched the
>archive and Bob Monaghan's site and couldn't find much on it.
David
I got this meter for the S2A a lot of years ago but I haven't used it very
much as I changed to the EC-TL. The first switch is the main one just to
turn the meter on and the second one is to turn on the internal cell which
compensate the light coming through the viewer so that you just need to use
it if you are metering without approaching your eye to the viewer. I you do
that the light going through the viewer disturb the right TTL metering. The
knob is a zero level adjustment. Turn the meter on, and without any light
going through the lens nor the viewer the needle has to be on 0. If not,
place it to 0 with the knob. It works but it's rather bulky. I hope my
english had been understable.
Kind regards
FTlix
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: S2/S2A TTL Meter Finder
Aha! Thanks Felix, that makes things much clearer.
So with the switch on "CH," the meter subtracts the light coming
through the eyepiece from the light coming through the lens. It would
have been simpler just to build a metal eyepiece shutter into the
finder like some more recent cameras have (like my Canon F-1N), but I
guess this was all new in those days.
If I understand correctly after experimenting a bit more, the knob on
the right is the zero adjustment only for the "CH" setting. The
zeroing procedure seems to work like this:
1. Put the lenscap on, and leave the eyepiece exposed to the ambient
light, with the meter on and set to "CH."
2. Set the shutter speed so that the meter reads close to "0" and
adjust the knob to zero. (For anyone trying to follow this without
having seen this finder, it has the unusual feature of both an
internal and external meter readout, so you can read it with or
without looking through the finder).
3. If it works right, a reading taken with my eye looking through the
eyepiece and the second switch set to "OFF" should be the same as with
my eye away from the eyepiece and the second switch set to "CH."
Any further information from anyone else who has used one of these is
welcome.
Regards,
David
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002
From: "razzledogau" [email protected]
Subject: S2 focusing.
Wayne, something else to check, make sure the screen is the right way
up! I`ve seen them upside down. Shiny side up is correct. Dean.
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002
From: "dgoldfar" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Help Please
Do you have film in the camera and is the insert pushed all the way
in so it clicks? You can't cock the shutter with the back on and no
film in the camera. This is a safety feature, so that you can't
attempt to take pictures without film.
You can cock the shutter with the back off so that you can test the
shutter or do multiple exposures by removing the back, cocking the
shutter, and replacing the back to make the second exposure on the
same frame.
If you do have the film loaded properly, the back installed and the
darkslide removed, and it is still not cocking the shutter, then you
have a gear that's not engaging or a stripped spindle in the back, and
it would need to be repaired, or you can find another back for around
$80.
Good luck!
David Goldfarb
--- In Bronica@y..., "night_harbinger" night_harbinger@y... wrote:
> I have a Bronica S2a that I purchased new in the box a year ago
> (anazing find indeed) It is in pristine condition with one exception.
>
> When the film back is on I can wind through the entire roll of film
> with out the shutter cocking once, however with the film back off the
> shutter cocks every time. Has anyone seen this problem? Or am I just
> a fool and am missing something completely obvious?
>
> I would really love to use this camera as a Studio only system.
> Please feel free to email me directly.
>
> Thank you in advance
>
> Jason Jake Hancock
From Bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002
From: "dgoldfar" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Help Please
Jake,
It sounds like you've got a problem with the back most likely then.
See if you can find another back to test with the body. If you're
lucky, it might just be the insert, and you can hang on to the back,
buy another one or two, and keep an eye out for a spare insert. The
backs are cheap, so you might as well have a few for mechanical
failures, rapid film changes, multiple film types, or the zone system.
I have six, a couple of which have minor problems, but they're all
usable. I also have a defunct back I bought for the spare insert and
I turned it into a groundglass back.
Good luck!
David
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002
From: "dgoldfar" [email protected]
Subject: Re: S2 focusing
...
> > > didn't help. It seem if I put a little pressure on the ground
> > > glass it goes in focus but when I put in the screws it goes out
> > > again.
> > > I have now taken all the foam out and it is actually better but
> not
> > > exact. Almost like it should have longer screws.
Wayne,
The matte surface of the groundglass should face down and should rest
squarely on the rails. If you screw the frame back in and you are
still able to press down on the groundglass, and when you press down
it comes into focus at infinity, then try adding another thickness of
foam to the underside of the frame, so that the screen is pressed all
the way down. If the screen is pressed down all the way and it's
past the focus point at infinity, then you may need to add shims
between the rails and the focusing screen.
David G.
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002
From: Wim van Velzen [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: website
Robert,
I learnt a lot from your site about MF photography, especially the Bronica
EC. Thanks!
I have got my own website now, with loads of pictures taken with my Bronicas
EC, 50, 80 and 150 zenzanon, 250 4.0 Nikkor and 2x convertor.
If you want to visit it: www.fotografiewimvanvelzen.nl
Kind regards, Wim
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002
From: "jack11973" [email protected]
Subject: Older Bronica models...
I've been shooting with Bronica 6x6 slrs for over 20 years,
starting with the S2a model and presently using SQ-Ai's. There is one
thing to be said about the older S and EC models, that is their
Optics. In my opinion the Nikkor lenses were among the best optics
that I've ever handled, the images were always crisp and contrasty
and would match any zeiss lens. I can't say that about the present
line. The "PS" lenses are supposed to better than the "S" versions,
but in most cases, the difference is hardly noticable. Besides
shooting weddings and technical photography I use my Bronica's for
personal pleasure (even though its alot lug around). My favorite
medium is B&W film including infra-red (Konica)film. I print to
24x24" and wish I had kept my old Bronica ECTL with Nikkor lenses.
On the other hand, the newer bodies are lighter, easier to handle
and the viewfinder is quite a bit brighter. For weddings, using the
older focal plane shutter models was a nightmare when it came to
using fill in flash during daylight. (because of the 1/40 flash
synch). The noise of the shutter tripping would scare the hell out
of people as well.
All considered, no camera is perfect for every situation. These
older Bronica models and their lenses can be had a very reasonable
prices on ebay and second hand. If your looking to try medium format
it would be an enjoyable and rewarding starting place.
http://www.picturetrail.com
album : rickjack
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002
From: "jonyquik" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Older Bronica models...
...(quotes above posting)
Hi! Very interesting observations! I also am a longtime medium format
user beginning with a Hasselblad 1000f in the late 50s. This came
equiped with 2 Ektar lenses that absolutely to this day still rival
the contrast and sharpness of modern day lenses. It was not until 5
years ago that I came upon my first Bronica. It is an S model, and
has 2 very wonderful Nikkor lenses, a 75 and a 180. Both are fast
2.8, and 2.5 respectively. I consider these lenses to be the very
near equivilent of those old Ektar lens formulas. I love my Bronica
because it faithfully records the things I see. I love it!!!
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002
From: "dgoldfar" [email protected]
Subject: Re: fresnel orientation in Bronica C
Not bad for $60 and a little work. Looking at my S2A, which should be
the same, the grooves are toward the glass.
David Goldfarb
--- In Bronica@y..., Mark Walberg markwalberg@e... wrote:
> I've been working on a jammed Bronica C I got on eBay for $60. I was
> worried it would have stripped wind gears, but it just needed
> cleaning up a bit on the wind side. It is always a great pleasure to
> get jammed camera working again!
>
> So, I went ahead and fixed the bad foam on the ground glass frame.
> But, I dropped the fresnel and I can't remember the orientation -
> fresnel grooves toward the mirror or toward the ground glass? ( I
> think it must be the latter.)
> Does it matter? The corners are bright in either direction.
>
>
> It still doesn't quite reach infinity (mighty close though), so I
> guess I will look into messing around with those spacers at the top
> and bottom of the ground glass support.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
> -Mark Walberg
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002
From: "jonyquik" [email protected]
Subject: Bronica S & S2
Anyone out there in cyber land use these older cameras besides me? I
have a Bronica S, with 2, 12 exp mags, a 75 mm Nikkor, with an
extension tube set, and a tower focusing hood, and a speed grip. Plus
the pride and joy of my outfit is my 180mm f2.5 Nikkor H. I believe
this may be the sharpest lens I have ever owned. When I first came
upon this outfit, I was working as a repairman here in Fresno, CA. It
was working in slow motion from having been stored in someones attic
for a long period of time. I did a CLA on the body, and it has worked
fine ever since. Although very heavy, it is a fine piece of
photographic equipment I am happy to own, and it didn't cost me the
whole farm. The 180 lens is extremely heavy because of so much glass,
but I understand from this URL; http://cameraquest.com/bron180.htm
that this lens is extremely rare with only 180 of them having been
made in the Bronica mount. It weighs a whopping 4 3/4 pounds. I get
my exercise everytime I use it.
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002
From: "[email protected]" [email protected]
Subject: RE: Bronica S & S2
I have been using the older focal plane shutter Bronica models for many years
with great success.
You may read some of my related articles oon Bob Monaghan's excellent
Bronica/medium format website-
http://medfmt.8k.com/bronica.html
I have the following Cameras - Bronica Deluxe, C, S2 and S2A
and various Bronica lenses for them, plus lenses I have adapted-
Including mount to take 39MM Basic Kilfitt lenses (I have 90MM f2.8 Makro-
Kilar, 150MM f3.5, 300MM f5.6, 500MM f5.6 Zoomar/Kilfitt-Mirror).
I also adapted a 400MM f6.3 tele to these cameras and made an adapter mount
for Bronica C, S2 and S2A - which takes the Carl Zeiss Jena pre-set
teles - 180MM f2.8 Sonnar and 300MM f4 Sonnar.
- Sam Sherman
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002
From: John Bevans [email protected]
Subject: RE: Bronica S and S2
I just gotten a S2A with 75 mm lens. I will use this most for scenics and am a
little conserned about the vibrations from the mirror on the slower shutter speeds.
What is your experience and do you have any suggestions for reducing the
vibration?
I have a Bogen 3021 tripod with 3047 head.
John
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002
From: "[email protected]" [email protected]
Subject: RE: RE: Bronica S and S2
John,
The Bronica S2A has little to no mirror vibration - here is the proof.
Remove the back - set shutter to B - hold the camera solidly in one hand- be
careful not to drop it - hold over a soft pillow or something.
Then wind and release the shutter to open only on B - you will feel little to
no vibration.
I would not worry about it as most of the vibration takes place when the
mirror returns AFTER taking the photograph.
Has your finder foam been replaced - if not see Bob Monaghan's website for my
posts on that.
- Sam Sherman
from bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002
From: "dgoldfar" [email protected]
Subject: Re: How to get Bronica strap off?
--- In Bronica@y..., Mark Walberg markwalberg@e... wrote:
> I finally got a Bronica strap for my C.
> It snaps onto the posts just fine.
> But, how in the world do you get these things off?
> -Mark Walberg
Okay, let's see if I can explain this. It's simple, but not easy to
describe. If you look at the round plastic part of the strap lug as
it is attached, there is a metal tab that comes out of it. Press in
(toward the body of the camera) on the metal tab and slide the tab
into the round plastic part. The lug should come off the post easily.
Don't force anything.
David Goldfarb
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002
From: "[email protected]" [email protected]
Subject: RE: Re: Bronica S & S2
Vincent,
Kling Photo had lots of great lenses and equipment in the years past.
You must have had fun there, in addition to work.
I enjoy using the various Kilfitt lenses as they are light and fit many
cameras with actual Kilfitt adapters and many I have made up. I really like
the 90MM, 150MM and 300MM for use on Kiev 88, Kiev 88CM and Pentacon 6.
The 180MM Nikkor is a well respected lens and a very rare one.
The 180MM preset Sonnar is a heavy lens, si I guess the Nikkor is more so.
My reason for making the adapter to use the 180MM Sonnar on Bronica S2A
is to be able to shoot portraits wide open with the background blurred
out - which it does well.
Good luck with your photography,
Sam Sherman
Original Message:
-----------------
From: jonyquik [email protected]
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 19:35:04 -0000
To: [email protected]
Subject: [BronicaPro] Re: Bronica S & S2
Dear Sam, I just finished reading your article on Bob Monaghan's
site, and it brought back many old memories of using those very fine
lenses made in Leichtenstein. I am at present attempting to adapt a
40mm f3.5 Makro-Kilar D to my Canon SLR, for an inexpensive and
badass Macro lens. I had one adapted with spit and superglue to a
Nikon F years ago, and took many superlative photos with it. Because
of its backfocus, and the protruding rear element, I had to make a
special mod on the mirror of the F, a half oval cutout to clear the
rear element. Now I am attempting to make a more permanent adapter by
machining a M42 to Canon FD adaptor, but it does seem like such a
waste of another good adapter, since there were available at one time
an adaptor for that lens to a Canon FD. Presently it has an Exacta
mount. Have you in your searches ever come across one, or found a
good source for Kilfitt lenses and or accessories? Back in those
days, I worked for Kling Photo Corp. in NYC, in their repair dept.
They were the importers of Kilfitt at that time, and I had the luxury
of using all of the Kilfitt lenses you mention on my Hasselblad
1000F. I preferred the 90 mm Makro Kilar, and the 150mm, as they were
both handholdable and light. At the time the other lenses I used on
the 1000F, were an 80mm Ektar which was also a superb piece of glass,
and the 135 Tele-Ektar which easily followed its little brother in
sharpness. I am very impressed by your accomplishments in adapting
such a wide variety of lenses to your Bronicas, especially the Zeiss
Sonnar 180. This is the lighter cousin to the Nikkor 180 I own, being
about half its weight because of the judicious use of aluminum in the
lens barrel. The Nikkor, I believe, has probably a lot of bronze or
brass, adding to its weight, but I believe it to be a copy of the
Zeiss Sonnar lens formula. It was originally produced in a short
mount for the Nikon rangefinder cameras, as were the Sonnars for the
Contax, and adapted for use on the early Bronicas. I understand there
were not many of them made for this purpose. Monaghan's site has an
article on that lens, and the author says only 180 were made this
way, so I feel really blessed to have come into its possesion for so
reasonable a price. I paid $200 cash for it and the Bronica S with
the 80mm Nikkor and one mag back about 5 years ago. Hoping to hear
from you with some news of Kilfitt availability, Sincerely Vincent
from bronica mailing list:
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002
From: "jonyquik" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica S & S2
That is just one of the things I love about the Nikkor 180, is its
ability at fine portrature. Its flatness of field, and of course its
sharpness. I am of course looking for other fine lenses I can add to
the cameras abilities. Do you know of any really good but reasonably
priced wide angle lenses that can be used on the Bronica? Of course I
am planning on buying a 5cm f 3.5 Nikkor when the budget allows, but
I am also looking for something that is sharp, and wider in angle.
Perhaps in the 40mm area.
...
From: [email protected] (Robert Monaghan)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A waist level viewers
Date: 26 Aug 2002
sure, lots of advantages;
better light blocking (chimney is solid, popups may allow light in from
sides/top;
use of rubber eyecup to reduce side lighting and improve eye
accommodation, raises contrast, less glare;
magnification factor is much higher (like 5x magnification), so image is
brighter, less glare, appears lots bigger;
adjustable diopter ring, so can adapt for eyes over range (2+ diopters
either way IIRC) without needing diopter lens elements...
The chimney is also very light (air) versus prisms, brighter than prisms
(less losses in glass and reflections), easier to pack (you can stuff
items in it, has leather carrying case too), and more impressive than WLF ;-)
grins bobm
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002
From: ww [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A - Testing a second hand body (no lens, etc)
Tom--
Until I finally saved up enough money to buy my current medium format
camera, I survived on the old Bronicas, and they have a very special
place in my heart to this day. Anyone who tries to talk them down is
simply predjudiced. Do your research, find the right unit, and use the
hell out of it! The S2A is rugged as hell, takes a wide range of really
wonderful lenses, is entirely battery -free, and no thief worth his salt
will bother to steal it. You can get the Nikkor 75mm f2.8 for a song,
and the helical also, so don't worry about that. Email me directly and I
can help you find one. (use [email protected] rather than the
above address.) Backs usually go for a hundred or less too.
The most common problem is that the foam light seals will have
deteriorated. Light leaks are usually not a problem, but it can leave
foam particles all over the innards and it will need a good cleaning.
It's also common for the pieces that determine the exact position of the
mirror and the exact position of the focus screen to wear slightly,
affecting focus.
The S2A is more durable than the S2, S, C, and earlier, because they
used all steel gearing in the S2A. With the S2A, the only loss was that
they didn't put any mirror lock-up. It's loud enough that you won't want
to fire it in church, but I always liked the sound. Like slamming a car
door.
Make sure the shutter fires reliably. Hold it up and look through the
body as you fire it at a variety of speeds. You should be able to see a
clear hole through the back and out the lens hole when you fire. Make
sure the mirror goes all the way clear. The shutter should really slam
across the opening with confidence, with no hesitation at all.
Hold the camera up at eye level with a bright scene behind the camera,
so when you fire the shutter you will see bright light through the body.
Looking through the lens opening and straight through the camera, fire
the shutter at each speed a couple or three times. At slow speeds (1/4
sec or more) your eyes and ears can tell you whether the speeds are
anywhere close. When you get into 1/30, 1/60, etc, it's harder to judge
the speed but your eye should still get a very clear square flash
through the body. You are looking for any speeds where the curtains are
not allowing an even exposure, perhaps one curtain drags a little. It's
not too hard to see when one is messed up. You will just see a
rectangular flash instead of the full square frame.
Make sure both shutter curtains (before and after winding) are in
PERFECT shape. Bring a small flashlight and look CLOSELY for pinholes in
both curtains.
Check the entire mirror for scratches, especially along the bottom edge;
people often scratch the lower edge when they install lenses too quickly.
Shake it vigorously and turn it upside down and roll it around in your
hands. It should NOT rattle.
Hopefully, you have done enough research that you know a good price for
a body. The whole system, body, finder, back, and 75mm lens, can be
found pretty reliably for $400. I found one for $275 and bought it as a
backup just because it was TOO cheap. Make sure that the seller is
really giving you a deal; I would say that over $200 is a rip off, and
$125 - 150 is fair, given you can't test it. (Right now on Ebay, there
is a complete S2A system for a "buy it now" price of about $300. Someone
has a 75mm Nikkor lens at a starting price of $75 and NOBODY has bid. it
ends today.)
Again, feel free to email me if you need any more info or halp.
--ward
> I've got the opportunity to purchase a body & WL finder now at a price
> I can afford. In a couple of months, I'll probably be able to afford a
> back & lens. Part of the budget problem is credit card closing dates,
> and the need for "stealthy" purchases. (A few small purchases that are
> paid off each month are ok, but one big one isn't).
>
> When I normally buy used equipment (such as 35mm bodies & lenses), I
> have always had the other stuff I needed to completely test the new
> item so that I can return it within the trial period. That includes
> visual inspection, checking out all the mechanical operations, and
> then running a roll of slide film through it checking shutters,
> apertures, etc.
>
> If I were to buy the S2A body & finder, I would not be able to
> actually test its ability to photograph. (No lens or back). But are
> there things that I could examine on the body, and operations that I
> can check on the body (shutter firing, aperture stop down) that would
> let me know if it was a working body, that I could expect to work well
> with a good lens and back? Are there common problems that are not
> "discoverable" this way?
>
> Are there any special things that need to be checked out on an S2A
> body? Are there any parts that might be missing that I should check
> for. One I can think of would be the focusing helical, but are there
> other removable parts?
>
> Thanks Tom
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002
From: ww [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A waist level viewers
I used the chimney finder on my ECTL for years, after years of using the
folding WL finder, and I promise you will appreciate the improvement. It
gives you a fuller, brighter view, makes focusing MUCH faster and more
sure, is just more satisfying all around.
--w
Rich Shepard wrote:
> My Bronica S2A has the standard, folding waist-level viewer with the
> flip-up magnifier. Bronica also made a magnifying chimney viewer for this
> model. Is there any particular advantage to the fixed, magnifying viewer
> over the folding viewer?
>
> Thanks,
Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2002
From: ww [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Medium Format vs. 35mm
There are many assumptions that I would urge you to question and
confront. There is a huge difference between the different formats, and
I always bristle when they are compared, as if one or the other is
preferable.
Why do you want to be inconspicuous? Being conspicuous is no worse; but
it does press you to approach a subject differently. I think that is
good for you, though, to approach subjects from different vantage points
and attitudes. I shoot in deep downtown Washington DC with a huge medium
format camera and a tripod. What's worse is that I am obsessed with
portraits and that is mostly what I do on the streets here. There is no
way possible that I could sneak a shot with this thing, so I have had to
learn to bring strangers into my vision, empower and encourage to be
enthusiastic about having their portrait taken by a total stranger on a
street corner. The funny thing is that people are MUCH more receptive to
a big, clunky box of a camera then they ever were to one of the sleek
and quick 35mm cameras. Then when I make them copies of the prints (I
shoot them in either ASA 25 or 50) their eyes pop out.
I spent a summer earlier in life shooting the federal buildings down
here with an old Bronica 6x6 SLR, also on ASA 50 film. They are so
sharp, it is eye-boggling. Sharper than any print you have seen
reproduced in any book you have ever seen. When you are face-to-face
with a print you have taken with one of these cameras, you will save
your nikons for hockey games and birthday parties.
Don't try to figure out which is better or why. Rent, borrow, or snag
one cheap, shoot until you begin to get comfortable, and post a note
with an update.
Jeff Haddock wrote:
> I have long wanted to use medium format for my photography but have
> heard conflicting things about it. I am hoping they are simply the
> ramblings of one who is married to the 35mm format and simply does not
> have the will nor the means to try anything else.
>
> Before I begin, I think it may be best if I explain what I photograph
> and how. To begin with, handheld use is of great importance to me as
> much of my work is of urban settings (think Manhattan) but is of
> landscapes at the same time. Think exposures of the side of a building
> for texture, etc. For this reason, I cannot use a tripod in a lot of
> situations, both for practicality in a crowded island and because I
> want to be as inconspicuous as possible. I shoot black and white print
> film, usually enlarging anywhere between 8x10 to about 11x14. I keep
> it this way because I want to teeter on the liquid quality afforded to
> LF users printing contact prints.
>
> That being said, I have heard people stating that there is
> considerable depreciation of depth of field when shooting MF compared
> to 35mm. Does this statement have any merit? If so, why is this the
> case? I have a hunch it may be because most expect to enlarge MF negs
> more than 35mm negs and in doing such the lens shake and relative
> focus become more pronounced.
>
> Beyond this supposed disadvantage, are there any other, real or
> perceived, that I should be aware of? In other words, is it, or why is
> it not, simply the exact same thing with more information because
> there is more negative to expose? Thanks in advance to all who
> participate.
>
> Jeff
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002
From: "Tim Ruckley" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica D thru ECTL
John,
I used to own a Bronica C and currently own a late model S2A. As far as
reliability goes both have been great, neither has had any major problems. S2
and S2A will take the most accessories and lenses. C series cameras do not
have interchangeable backs and the S (and earlier) do not have a removable
focusing helicoid so some of the longer telephoto lenses cannot be used. EC
and EC-TL use all the same lenses as the others, but use different hoods/prisms
and backs.
All up I would have to recommend the S2A.
Good Luck,
- Tim.
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 10:48:02 EDT
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Digest Number 562
Hi John,
I'm going to copy and paste the email a late friend who was a camera expert
and a Hollywood cameraman sent me about the same question. He bought and sold
collectible cameras and was a walking encyclopedia of knowledge. I did buy an
S2 and have never had a problem with it except that the flash sych went out
and had to be fixed-age thing. Anyway, it's been fine since. Here is Les's
email about old Bronicas and in particular to a comment from me about finding
a Bronica C that someone wanted $500 for.
Marie Brandes
I, am very happy to hear from you and especially happy to hear from you befor
you purchase the bronica.
YOU DO NOT WANT THE BRONICA MODEL 'C' AND ESPECIALLY SO FOR THAT PRICE.
the bronica 'c' had only one thing going for it and that was that the lenses
were nikon (which are still hard to beat to this day), but the model 'c' was
the second version of the bronica to come on to the market and it had
numerious problems, in fact they were down right hard to keep operateing and
were continually being sent to the factory, or other camera technicians to
have the film advance and the mirror cocking mechanisam's repaired.
I personally try my very best to stay away from bronica model" 'S' and 'C',
not only due to the inherent problems that they were designed with, but they
also do not have interchangeable film backs.
a very dear freind of mine passed away a few months ago and his wife
approached me to help her sell off his camera collection and low behold in
his collection was a brand new bronica model (you guessed it) 'C' with two
brand new nikkor lenses and even though I new that thre could be trouble with
a possible return of the camera, I put it up for auction on ebay with a
reserve of 299.95 (the listed value for the bronica model 'c' is 250.00 to
375.00 in the camera bible known as McKeowns), the camera did not sell the
first time that I put on ebay, so I relisted it and after several emails from
one bidder I guess that I convinced him to try the camera, of course I
offered him three days to inspect and use the camera and after three days if
he was not satisfied ?, he could return the camera for a complete refund,
well fortunately the camera operated perfectly and the fellow purchased the
camera (about 5 weeks ago) for 299.95 plus shipping and insurance and luckily
I have not heard from
him since, with the exception of him posting positive feedback on ebay for
me, so I guess that he is happy with the camera.
if and that is a big IF?, I were to purchase a bronica model "c", I would
certainly not pay more than 175.00 for it and only then if the camera were in
mint and operateing condition, but it will be cold day in H@*L befor I would
consider puchaseing either the bronica model 'S', or 'C'.
the bronica model 'S2', or 'S2A' are considered the very best of the bronica
all mechanical camera's and they do have all polished steel gears in the film
advance and mirror cocking mechanisams (which have given very minimal
problems) and they do have interchangeable backs. the bronica model 'S2'
with waist level finder, 1- film back and 1-75mm nikkor lens can purchased
for as little as 250.00, or as much as 400.00, the bronica model 'S2A' (with
the same finder, film back and nikkor lens) can be purchased for as little as
275.00 to as much as 450.00, so the seller of the camera that you looked at
is without a doubt either not knowledgeable of the values of the camera that
he is selling, or he is an outright crook.
now I know what you need the most! and that is a McKeowns book.
I sincerely wish you the very best of everything every day of your life and a
bronica model'c' just is not going to get it.
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002
From: "dgoldfar" [email protected]
Subject: Re: L grip parts,
Koh's is a good suggestion. Also check with Frank Marshman at
CameraWiz in Harrisonburg, W. Va., since he does a lot of Bronica
repairs.
The L-Grip indeed needs a special pin. Instead of a traditional
cable-release mechanism, the button in the grip pushes down a plunger,
which actuates a hinged lever, which pushes up on a pin that screws
into the cable-release socket on the bottom of the S2/A body. Maybe
some creative repair tech could make a replacement out of cable
release parts.
That second cable release socket is very handy, by the way, whenever
you're using something on the lens (like a compendium bellows or
filter holder) that blocks the shutter button.
David Goldfarb
--- In Bronica@y..., Robert Monaghan rmonagha@p... wrote:
> try Koh's http://kohscamera.com/ they did a lot of bronica repairs and
> stocked a lot of items for sale; see their bronica repair blurb etc.
>
> some of the older grips simply used a cable release ("firing pin"?)
> which is easily replaced with similar sized units and a bit of fiddling
> (or epoxy?) ;-)
>
> hth bobm
From: Rich Shepard [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Bronica S2A Film Winding Problem
Date: 3 Nov 2002
I suspect that my problems are all user error, but I want to check with
those who have more experience than I with this older camera. About a year
ago I purchased a used (and checked-out) S2A and it's been wonderful, fun
and satisfying. Except, several rolls have not advanced properly. One color
negative roll exposed at the end of September and three rolls of TMX exposed
over the past several months. I have two 6x6 backs (and a 6x4.5 that I don't
use), and I'm confident the problem is with both backs.
So, I assume that I've become careless when placing the film insert into
the backs and not ensuring that they are properly seated. This would allow
them to slip now and then and not properly advance the film. Seems that this
occurs toward the end of the roll most of the time, but also happened in the
center.
Is this a known problem with medium format cameras that load the film on
an insert, or is it just me?
Enquiring mind wants to know,
Thanks,
Rich
--
Dr. Richard B. Shepard, President
[Ed. note: RE: S2A TTL meter manual source...]
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002
From: "js35_02 [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: bronica ttl meter
Thanks for the help. I managed to get one from Kohs camera. At least
I sent them $6 for a photocopy and am waiting to receive it.
Jerry
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 04 Nov 2002
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A Film Winding Problem
Rich,
Loading insert problems with Bronica S2A cameras are quite common.
I should know I have done them too. Nowhere in any instructions
do they properly warn the user these problems are common - please note the
following-
With the back open and the inert loaded with the film starter marks
pointing to the dot in the insert-
Place the insert in the back using thumb pressure from both thumbs to first
push the left side of the insert in and hear a positive "click"
and then the right side (with the right thumb) and hear a positive "click".
If you do not get TWO clicks - remove the insert and wind the film very
slightly forward by turning the outside insert gear - now try to push the
insert back in with the two clicks. You may have to play around with this to
get it right. But you will easily get the hang of it.
If that does not fix it - send your camera and backs to Ken Ruth
(Photography on Bald Mountain) or Frank Marshman (Camera Wiz) -
both advertise in the back of Shutterbug.
Best,
Sam Sherman
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002
From: "slbitt [email protected]
Subject: S2 Focus check/follow up
The results are in from my Focus check and they are Outstanding!
At infinity: I can see the lines on an American flag flying at a
distance of 1.5 miles, and it was partially furled! This area on the
slide is barely discernible with the naked eye.
At the 3 and 1 meter targets, the camera clearly focuses at the
marked distance - it is the groundglass which is off. I have a simple
system to deal with this until it gets adjusted.
Contrast, color: Excellent.
Of special note is the accuracy of the large focal plane shutter; no
vignetting, unevenness, or capping were found. I attribute this to
the fact it is a Ball Bearing Shutter.
(On E100SW, 75mm Nikkor).
What an outstanding camera!
Sb
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002
From: "[email protected]" [email protected]
Subject: RE: Re: C vs. 2A & Schneider 500/5.5 Tele-Xenar conversion
David,
Your Schneider 500MM Bronica Adaptation sounds tops. Why don't you take some photos of it
and do a writeup for Bob Monaghan's site?
Re- Old Bronica focal plane shutter cameras. I would go by the external physical condition.
If the camera looks like it has had little use, most likely the internal gears have had little use.
Over 15 years ago I bought a used Bronica S2 in very clean condition and it was the smoothest
winding such camera I have ever encountered. Aside from a mirror repair done by Frank Marshman
this camera has been humming along perfectly for years. Frank said the internal gears had not been
worn.
About 20 years ago I was reading an old 1965 issue of Popular Photography and saw that Olden Camera in New York was
closing out the discontinued Bronica C, which is something I always wanted. I went there about 1980 and
asked them if they had any of those new-discontinued Bronica C cameras left and the saleman thought I was crazy coming in 15
years later. Then I asked him to take a blue box off a high shelf and there was a Brnad New/old stock Bronica C.
I have had good use out of it over the years and a really fine Clean-Lube-adjust was done on it by Ken Ruth -
Photography on Bald Mountain.
While Bronica S2A is excellent in many ways, my S2 winds smoother than any
of the many S2A cameras I have handled.
Best,
Sam Sherman
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002
From: "[email protected]" [email protected]
Subject: RE: Re: C vs. 2A
David,
I am a longtime old Broncia user and have Bronica S2A, S2, C and Deluxe
all working just fine.
If you do not abuse your S2 or C, with the Brass wind gears - these cameras
work just as well as S2A.
In fact the C has the integrity of one body with built-in back and nothing
which might possibly go out of alignment, that is if you have fixed your
finder foam and aligned the groundglass.
Ken Ruth at Photography on Bald Mountain fixed and cleaned, lubed adjusted
my Bronica C at a very reasonable price. His ad is in the back of
Shutterbug.
If you look at my article on Bob Monaghan's excellent
Bronica/medium format site-
http://medfmt.8k.com/bronica.html
You will see the story of my adaptation of Zeiss Jena 180MM Sonnar for
Bronica S2A - and the 300MM Sonnar on my Bronica C.
Best,
Sam Sherman
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003
From: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Bronica S2A
That is the way the Bronica S2A works.
The Mirror slap is After the shutter releases so this does not blurr the
image.
When winding the last little part of the winding clicks to lock in the
winding.
Be sure to check the focus VS film plane as most camere require the
finder foam being replaced (simple task).
See my articles on this at-
http://medfmt.8k.com/bronica.html
There is lots of other Bronica S2A info there too. Bronica S2A is a great
camera.
- Sam Sherman
From Minolta Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003
From: Eric Steinberg [email protected]
Subject: Re:"Quietest" body-Hear for Yourself
Something I've wanted to do for awhile. The recent thread on XD vs XE
shutters gave me the impetus.
I recorded the shutters sounds of my Minolta bodies. SR-1, SRT-102,
XE, XD-11 and X-570. Shutters were all set at 125/sec and recorded
with the same microphone gain (volume)settings. Bodies were mounted
with lenses and hand held at an equal distance from microphone.
I have posted the resulting sound files accompanied with visual wave
form graphics on the Minoltians web site:
http://www.Minoltians.ws/shutters/shutter_sounds.html .
Not that it is any surprise but the XE wins in a walk. I also
included my Bronica S2A, so you could hear a loud shutter.
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 23 Jan 2003
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A vs Mamiya M645 1000S
Tom,
I once bought a new Bronica S2A and kept it Mint and almost never used it and
eventually sold it. I later bought a Bronica S2 body for use, and it wound
incredibly smoothly. I have been using that camera for over 15 years and have
had no problems with the gears. Frank Marshman/Camera Wiz and Ken
Ruth/Photography on Bald Mountain can repair those cameras.
If you are not rough on your equipment, you will most likely never strip the
gears on a Bronica S2. The Bronica S2A has an overwind clutch which slips
beyond the stop point, in addition to the steel gears, for users who tend to
overwind their cameras.
The Bronica S2A does have greater re-sale value because of this information,
but if you can get a good Bronica S2 at a good low price,
dont be afraid of it. Do avoid the defect-prone earlier model "S".
- Sam Sherman
From: Rich Shepard [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Doing my homework on Bronica S2/S2a
Date: 28 Jan 2003
Stephan Goldstein wrote:
> Is there just one focusing mount, or are there several? If more than one,
> is there a compatibility list somewhere?
I bought my S2A a bit more than a year ago. I'm absolutely deligted with
it. AFAIK, there's only one focusing mount and it should come with the
camera and normal lens.
> There seem to be two different 50mm Nikkors, an f/3.5 and an f/2.8, at
> least as far as I could tell from eBay listings. Is one to be preferred
> over the other?
I have several lenses for my camera. Komura, Zenzanon and Nikkor. They're
all excellent. I don't recall which one is the 50 mm, but its maximum
aperture is 3.5. It takes an 82mm filter; all the other lenses take 67mm
filters.
All together, I have the 50mm, 75mm Nikkor, 150mm Zenzanon, 200mm Nikkor,
400mm (I forget which brand) and an 800mm Komura. All but the 75 and 200
were bought on eBay.
> Are there any lenses that I should make an effort to avoid?
Bad glass; wrong mounts. :-)
I've shot both b&w and color with all lenses except the 800 mm (which
arrived about a month or so ago and I've not been out to shoot because of
the rain and a huge backlog of negatives waiting to be printed). Can't tell
any difference among the three manufacturers. This is all from my limited
experience, of course, but I'm delighted with everything. Except the weight
of the camera bag on a long trek!
Rich
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 28 Jan 2003
Subject: Re: Doing my homework on Bronica S2/S2a
Bronica had the normal focusing mount, plus the very long tele
Nikkor focusing mount. Komura had 2 long tele focusing mounts.
All you really need is the normal focusing mount.
Most Bronica lenses are excellent, as is the f3.5 50MM Nikkor.
The f2.8 version could be a tad better but more expensive.
S2/S2A is a fine field to get involved with - you can do good work with it.
- Sam Sherman
[ed. note: the S2 can be very good buys if found in good shape,
despite prejudices against them! But beware older and worn out bronica bodies]
From: [email protected] (Timo Geusch)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica S2A vs Mamiya M645 1000S
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003
I bought an S2A in "good user" condition a few years back and I haven't
had any problem with it yet. As with anything old and mechanical you are
better off buying the best you can afford - S2As aren't that expensive
(at least not here in the UK) and so spending another $50 on the body
might pay off in the longer run. To me it seems to be very well built
but I wouldn't want to take a chance on gear that looks too rough as
this might well reflect on the general amount of care that the camera
has received!
> Has anything changed in relation to the S2 vs the S2A's. In other
> words have all the S2 with failing gears already failed, and do the
> ones left that still work have a good chance of not failing? (I read
> that hypotheses somewhere). Can failed gears be replaced with steel
> ones? Or is this again an area to avoid?
I wouldn't touch an S2 even if it's working fine as the additional risk
of something going wrong outweighs the slightly lower purchasing cost.
Of course it can be repaired (and you can probably find someone to make
new gears from steel) up you'll easily spend more money than the
camera's worth.
HTH,
T.
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003
From: Tom Anderson [email protected]
Organization: Anderson Communications
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Nikon] Nikon Medium Format
Fellow Nikon users:
Yes Henry is totally correct about Nikon formerly supply lenses for
Bronica. In the 1970s I had a pair of Bronica S2's and a 50mm, 75mm,
200mm, and 400mm Nikkors. The first 3 lenses were made specific for
Bronica cameras, while the 400mm was one of four non diaphragm lenses
(600, 800, and 1200mm) that were useable on both Bronica's and Nikon
35mm cameras by changing focusing units. I loved the Bronica although
it was a bit heavy and the 40th of a second X-sync was a bit slow. All
of their lenses were tack sharp. In about 1975 or so the newspaper I
worked for sent me to Newport News VA to cover the launching of the
"new" USS Texas (CGN39) a nuclear powered guided missile cruiser. I
shot several B&W (Tri-X) wide angle photos of the ship prior to launch
with the 50mm and blew them up to 11/14 when I got home you could almost
count the rivets and the scrambled eggs on the hats of some of the
admirals. I finally sold the Bronica (I hated to do it) later after
Kodak changed the paper backing when it went from the Ektacolor (C22
process) to the new Vericolor films (the beginning of C-41 process
film). For some reason the Bronica couldn't handle the thinner paper
backing of the newer C-41 films, even after I sent 4 120/220 back off to
EPOI for "modification" (then the Nikon/Bonica USA importer) and it gave
a real "mushy" wound roll subject to fogging.
Even tried the new Bronica ECTL auto 6x6 which used the old Bronica
lenses, but Bronica still couldn't handle the thinner film backing.
Even the EPOI rep couldn't figure out the mushy roll winding situation.
Bought a pair of C330Fs later. That 400mm 4.5 was one heck of a hunk of
glass and used 122mm filters. Only problem was it took both a tripod on
the camera body and one on the lens to keep it steady.
Also before Bronica made cameras, they manufactured cigarette lighters.
Tom Anderson
Colleyville TX
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003
From: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica model ID?
[email protected] writes:
Hi, I just returned from a trip to S. California where I bought lots of old
Bronica S2A and C2 cameras and accessories New in Box from a collector.
He also had a used pre S2 camera with a separate small focus knob above the
film transport knob. This camera did not have the focus mount on the front,
but took S2a lenses. Can anyone identify this for me?
As a long lime GS-1 user, I just recently fell in love with the older
cameras.
ps I got two bellows units but only one had a S2a adapter with it.
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003
From: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Bronica model ID?
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 1-12-03
to: [email protected]
Prior to Bronica S2, there was the first Bronica model Z/Deluxe which has a
wind knob that pulls in and out to serve dual-purpose to wind film/shutter or
focus the lens.
The next model was the model S which has a wind crank in the middle of the
focus knob and works similar to the Deluxe/Z.
As for a camera with two wind knobs - one for film/shutter and one for
focusing.
I have never heard of such an odd beast. Please post a picture of this
somewhere with a link to it so we can see it.
- Sam Sherman
...
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002
From: "slbitt [email protected]
Subject: Bronica S2/2a Focus mechanisms
Some may not be aware that when Pop Photography lab-tested the
Bronica S2 in 1969, they found the 75mm Nikkor to be absolutely XLNT,
as you might imagine, however noted that the focusing
mechanism 'displaced the optical axis of the lens depending on which
way it was turned'.
Not to disparage the camera, but it's something to think about.
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002
From: "dgoldfar [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica S2 focus/Follow up
If you're using the focus scale on the helical as your standard, you
can adjust it by loosening the screws on the band with the distance
marks. Measure 3 feet to the film plane (actually it's better to use
a closer distance), focus, then adjust the band until it reads accurately.
David
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002
From: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Bronica S2/2a Focus mechanisms
That Pop Photo review about the Bronica S2 displacing the optical axis of
the lens is Sheer Nonsense - certainly no more or less than Hasselblad or any other camera.
I have used my Bronica S2 with the 75MM Nikkor for many years and get
perfectly sharp photos at all distances.
I have no idea why people are always trying to tear these old Bronica
cameras down (past and present) when they are capable of top medium format results.
Maybe they are just too good a bargain against Hassy, Mamiya and whatever
else is out there.
- Sam Sherman
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003
From: "dgoldfar [email protected]
Subject: Re: Zenzanon 300mm f4.5 for S2/S2a etc
Geoff,
Another one you might try to find is the Komura 300/5.0, which isn't
bad. It comes on a helical with interchangeable heads, so also look
for the 400/6.3 and 500/7.0 that all use the same helical.
Cambridge Camera (notoriously unpleasant to deal with, but they do
have some interesting old stock) seems to have some of these older
Komura teles for Bronica.
For a Nikkor, check www.kohscamera.com, but the prices for the longer
Nikkors are steep.
Another option is to adapt a large format lens, of which there are
many tele designs that can be practical on the Bronica (there are also
long focal lengths that are non-tele designs, but these require very
long focusing tubes). A machinist like Steve Grimes
(www.skgrimes.com) can make you an adapter tube to use these lenses on
the Bronica helical. On a budget you can look for an older lens like
a 15" Wollensack Tele-Raptar or for a bit more a Schneider 360/5.5
Tele-Xenar. If you find one "in barrel" without a shutter or with a
non-working shutter, these are quite cheap, and you don't really need
a working shutter with the Bronica. There are also many fine modern
tele lenses like the Nikkor T-ED series, Fujinon 400T, and Schneider
400mm compact tele that could work well, if you want to go that route.
David Goldfarb
--- In [email protected], "Dale Leeper" daleeper@g... wrote:
> I have been watching ebay for quite a while, and neither lens sells
> frequently. I did however get a Meyer Optik gorlitz 300mm at a very good
> price because the seller wasn't sure what it fit.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: gwnikonsnapper
> > [mailto:geoff@w...]
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: [Bronica] Zenzanon 300mm f4.5 for S2/S2a etc
> >
> > I have recently got hooked on the Bronica S2A system it is amazing,
> > beautifully built with wonderful lenses.The one lens I cannot find
> > is the Zenzanon 300mm f4.5 [or even the Nikkor 300mm],does any one
> > know where they went? If you know of one for sale please let me know.
> > Thanks.Geoff
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003
From: "gwnikonsnapper [email protected]
Subject: Re: possible new S2 owner (soon?)
Hi,I would recommend a Bronica S2A with a few sensible precautions.
Get a nice tidy one with a guarantee if possible.These cameras are
now 30 years old but on the plus side you can a nice one with 75mm
for �225 upwards.The Nikkor lenses tend to be just over �100 each
unless you need a 600mm,Komura lenses are also available very
reasonably.I have got spare backs for �25 in the past.For the cost of
a Hassy with 80mm you can have a whole S2/S2a outfit.The Nikkor
lenses are superb well up to large print sizes.Beware of worn gears
in S2,the S2A had hardened steel gears for more durability.
--- In [email protected], "ocolof ocolof@y... wrote:
> Hi there, I've just joined - wanted to ask a question or two about
> some MF buying advice ... um basically I'm looking for a 645, 66, or
> 67 camera and have been looking at the following:
...
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003
From: Barbara Lee Spinnenweber [email protected]
Subject: Bronica S2A quandry - Screen
I got Bill Maxwell's (Precision Optics) screen for my Bronica ETRS and love
it! He can take any existing screen and work his heliocoid (???) process on
it or you can possibly purchase a new screen. I just bought a new one which
has a larger split prism than the Bronica type. It's pretty cool. I believe
he said that it adds two stops of light...(maybe he said 4 stops?). It's
good for macro also, doesn't darken up like the Bronica type does.
Barbara
From: "Paul Peacock" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: You MF guys need to leap to LF
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003
I bought a Bronica S2a for �75. Perfect Lens, back and viewfinder. It cost
me �50 to get it repaired and serviced.
WOW Its fantastic. I nee a darkslide if anyone would like to sell one.
MF is becoming so affordable.
From: Rich Shepard [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Question on Bronica Lenses
Date: 22 Jun 2003
The Bill Mattocks wrote:
> Gotcha. OK, I noticed some of the photos of purported Bronica lenses
> on eBay have several sets of electrical contacts sticking out of them.
> I'm going to take a W.A.G. and say that those would be for the more
> modern leaf-shutter lenses for the SQ / ETR models?
Bill,
Probably. If the back end doesn't look like the lenses you have, they
most likely won't work.
> Any 'favorite' lenses for the Bronica S2A/C that you'd recommend I
> look for?
No. It all depends on what you prefer to shoot. I use the Bronica for
"scenics", my descriptive term for landscapes of limited scope. The broad
views of mountain ranges and the like are what I call "grand landscapes".
The Bronica is good for some of these grand landscapes but there are some
shots we just cannot take because it has neither front nor rear movements.
I also like to photograph old, different or interesting buildings around
town, and industrial scenes (including bridges and the like). Because of the
lack of rise in the Bronica, I bought a Crown Graphic in 2.25x3.25" format.
Now I'm selling that because I bought a Galvin monorail view camera for the
same film format. That has full movements and will work for the grand
landscapes and buildings from ground level.
I'm not a people photographer. My fiancee wanted some glamor shots so I
bought inexpensive (relatively) flood lights and rented time in a studio.
Now that we see just how bad that was we can try again. :-)
One of my most popular shots -- in color, at least -- was taken in the
Columbia River gorge of the old Vista House at Crown Point. I took that from
about a mile away using the 200 mm lens and doubler. This year I'll try the
same shot with the 400 mm lens.
I use the different lenses to get the composition I want. Sometimes --
most times, in fact -- I'm limited to where I can set up the tripod (I never
shoot the Bronica hand held) because getting run over by a vehicle would
ruin the whole day.
> Excellent tips - I hadn't thought of that. Thanks! I was wondering
> about the Bronica 'Nikkor' lenses. I read that at some point, Nikon
> could not keep up with demand for the Bronica lenses, and Bronica
> stopped buying the Nikkors - so my thought was that perhaps this
> happened back during the S2A/C days, therefore if the lens was for
> Bronica and said 'Nikkor', it would fit. But that's just another
> W.A.G. Any idea?
Let's see ... my 75 and 200 are Nikkors, the 50, 400 and doubler are
Komura and the 150 is a Zenzanon. I've not gone looking for who built what,
when. When I found a lens I wanted and it was for the body I have, my
concern was condition and price.
Happy shooting!
Rich
From: "Bob" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Add-on Film Box-end Holders
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003
On my Bronica I put a square piece of Velcro (the hook part) on the back and
on the box ends of the various films I use I put the loop part. Carry them
in a small plastic bag & change as needed. I don't use that many different
films so it's not hard to keep track.
Bob
"Bandicoot" "insert_handle_here"@techemail.com wrote
> I remember that before every 35mm camera had a film box-end holder on its
> back (now they all have those little windows) you could get after market
> ones that you stuck on the back. I also _think_ I remember that at that
> time you could also get these reminder thingys in a size for a 120 (or 220)
> box-end.
>
> Anyone know if such a thing still exists, and where I might be able to get
> some? A UK source would be best, but I'll order them from anywhere if
> necessary.
>
> Thanks,
> Peter
> http://www.bard-hill.co.uk
[Ed. note: another example of falling MF price, a $1-1,500 kit in 2000 AD for $500 in 2003 AD]
From: "ds" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Used MF camera - advice needed
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003
For the past couple of years I have been fooling around with an old TLR
Rolleiflex and now I am thinking of moving up to a used Bronica outfit that I have
found for sale for $500, described as follows:
2 Bronica ECTL bodies, 1 perfect, 1 not working.
50mm lens with UV 68mm filter and cap
75mm lens with caps
Close-up bellows
Waist level finder
Prism finder
Pistol grip
6x4.5 120 back
6x6 back 120 or 220
Focusing ring
Basic metal case
Meter works, and camera is in great condition.
Does this sound like a good deal? I am just looking to extend my hobby, not get into photography as a
business. Any advice appreciated - reply to the group or directly.
-Dennis
John Stafford was seen penning the following ode to ... whatever:
> One reason you enjoyed using the Rolleiflex is that it worked. It's a
> rather reliable, quality piece of equipment. By going to the Bronica
> ECTL (and any earlier Bronica and the later E model) you are taking a
> very big step _down_ in reliability. IMHO (and in my experience).
Can't say that my S2a has been unreliable in the few years I've owned
it. Then again I remember a discussion about older Bronicas on this
newsgroup where it was pointed out that those bodies that are still
around and working now were the cream of the crop anyway.
--
Timo Geusch
From: Timo Geusch [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Question on Bronica Lenses
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003
The Bill Mattocks was seen penning the following ode to ... whatever:
> However, I still have a question! It's simple - what sort of Bronica
> lenses will fit on the model C? I understand that the C takes the
> same lenses that fit on S, S2, and S2A. However, I also understand
> that the EC takes *all* lenses in the Bronica series (read that on
> Robert Monaghan's site). If it takes all the lenses in the series,
> then perhaps there is some interchangeability between all the various
> models in terms of the glass you can mount on them?
I'm certainly not an expert on old Bronicas but maybe I qualify for
the simple reason that I own and occasionally use an S2A...
The earlier Bronica MF cameras had focal plane shutters, which is
rather unusual for MF SLRs as far as I understand this. The newer MF
cameras have their shutters in the lenses (whatever you call that,
can't remember atm). These newer lenses aren't compatible with the S &
ECTL series of cameras. The way I read the info on Robert's site was
that the ECTLs can use any lenses that were made for the S-series
cameras (and presumable for the C as well). They can't use the later
ETR* or SQ lenses. Unfortunately most of the lenses you find on
fleabay are ETR or SQ lenses.
> Part of the reason I am asking this is that I see a lot of Bronica
> lenses (Nikkors, Zenzanons, Komuras and the like) listed on eBay, and
> it seems that the sellers often do not say what specific model Bronica
> they are for. Is this because they just don't know or are unfamiliar
> with the various Bronica models,
Probably. Or they've never heard of our antique stuff.
> or is it because it doesn't matter because they *all* fit
> everything?
Certainly not the case.
--
Timo Geusch
From: Rich Shepard [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Question on Bronica Lenses
Date: 21u Jun 2003
The Bill Mattocks wrote:
> I just purchased a Bronica C. I think I did my 'due diligence', and I
> also spent a lot of time on a variety of excellent websites trying
> answer questions I had - including Robert Monaghan's most excellent
> website on medium format cameras, before posting here.
Bill,
I hope you have as much fun with the C as I have with my S2A.
> However, I still have a question! It's simple - what sort of Bronica
> lenses will fit on the model C? I understand that the C takes the
> same lenses that fit on S, S2, and S2A. However, I also understand
> that the EC takes *all* lenses in the Bronica series (read that on
> Robert Monaghan's site). If it takes all the lenses in the series,
> then perhaps there is some interchangeability between all the various
> models in terms of the glass you can mount on them?
The C and S series should take the same lenses. I have Nikkor, Zensanon
and Komura lenes for mine and they're all sharp and produce excellent
images. If the eBay auction does not list the models for which the lens is
made, ask the seller. If he cannot answer you, don't bid.
My S2A came with a 75 mm lens and I bought a 200 mm lens locally. All the
rest (50 mm, 150 mm, 400 mm and doubler) I bought either on eBay or from
dealers specializing in classic Bronicas. Other than the 400 mm needing to
have bad screws in the barrel replaced by a local repair shop (the barrel
wiggled about 1 mm) which added 1/3 more to the total cost of the lens, I've
had excellent experiences filling out the system.
Another thing you can do is check the Web for used Bronica C or S series
lenses. That will give you brands, focal lengths and maximum aperture. If
you see the description on eBay that matches you can be more confident it
will work. But, it doesn't hurt to ask the seller -- if he doesn't know for
what models the lens will work -- if you could return it if it is not for
the C.
Rich
From: "Norman Worth" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Considering Bronica S2A or EC Model
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003
I have an S2A, and I'm generally pleased with it. It's heavy, but it's
built like a tank (almost indestructable, stainless steel, well fitted
parts, etc.). It's old, but parts and accessories are still quite available
on the used market. The Zenzinon and Nikor lenses are excellent. The
interchangeable backs are foolproof, but they are sometimes a little
difficult. For someone with glasses, the prism viewfinder is not good. It
is dim, and you can't see the entire field. The waist level finder is
similar to what you get with a TLR, with a magnifier for careful focusing.
I am not acquainted with the EC. If it is newer, it may have some
advantages. Bronica has an excellent reputation, and I'm sure the quality
extends to the later models.
"tim" [email protected] wrote
> Hello!
> After a few years of using a TLR i'm beginning to feel the
> restriction of only having one lens at my disposal. I'm considering a
> S2A or EC model to replace the tlr and would like to hear what others
> have to say on these two models. I would like to also hear comments and
> further explanation about telephoto lens not working correctly (?) on
> the EC due to split mirror alignment? Finally if there is a reputable
> repair in the chicago area.
> Tks!
>
> Tim
From: Rich Shepard [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Considering Bronica S2A or EC Model
Date: 28 Apr 2003
tim wrote:
> After a few years of using a TLR i'm beginning to feel the
> restriction of only having one lens at my disposal. I'm considering a
> S2A or EC model to replace the tlr and would like to hear what others
> have to say on these two models. I would like to also hear comments and
> further explanation about telephoto lens not working correctly (?) on
> the EC due to split mirror alignment? Finally if there is a reputable
> repair in the chicago area.
Tim,
I know nothing about the EC, but I've had my S2A for a couple of years now
and I'm totally satisfied with it. I always use a tripod and take my time
setting up each exposure. I've accumulated a ton of stuff -- at least, it
feels like a ton as I haul the large bag around, including lenses (50 mm, 75
mm, 150 mm, 200 mm, 400 mm and doubler) viewers (waist level, chimney and 90
degree) a couple of extra backs (but I don't use the 6x4.5 cm back) and
filters.
All of the lenses produce very sharp, clear images. I've shot several
rolls of color negative film (Kodak, Fuji, Agfa) and quite a few B&W (T-Max
100 and now Agfa 100).
So, I cannot provide a comparison but I'm completely satisfied with my S2A
and cannot think of anything -- other than a couple of filters -- that I
want for it.
Rich
From: [email protected] (Eric Behr)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Considering Bronica S2A or EC Model
Date: 28 Apr 2003
Rich Shepard [email protected] wrote:
> tim wrote:
>> restriction of only having one lens at my disposal. I'm considering a
>> S2A or EC model to replace the tlr and would like to hear what others
>> have to say on these two models.
>
> I know nothing about the EC, but I've had my S2A for a couple of years now
>and I'm totally satisfied with it. I always use a tripod and take my time
>setting up each exposure.
My 2 cents: not to argue with the tripod, but it's also remarkable
how the S2A can be handheld reliably at slower speeds. It's well
balanced and _heavy_ so its inertia helps a lot.
> I've accumulated a ton of stuff -- at least, it
>feels like a ton as I haul the large bag around, including lenses (50 mm, 75
>mm, 150 mm, 200 mm, 400 mm and doubler) viewers (waist level, chimney and 90
Don't forget earplugs ;-) Also, for handheld shooting/carrying
around without a case, a grip or at least the strap is a must.
[Tim:]
>> Finally if there is a reputable
>> repair in the chicago area.
I don't think so. I've heard of two places specializing in older
Bronicas: Photography on Bald Mountain and Camera Wiz. See
http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/index.html and the various forums at
http://www.photo.net/ for much more information.
--
Eric Behr
[email protected]
http://www.math.niu.edu/~behr/
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003
From: "dgoldfar" [email protected]
Subject: Re: new s2a owner with camera problems
I'll concur with all of Sam's responses and add that you can adjust
the distance scale on the helical by loosening the screws on the scale
and adjusting its placement based on actual focus results, say, at
three known distances, such as the near distance for the lens, 15
feet, and infinity (but fix the finder foam first!). The red arrow
should point to infinity on the scale when you are focused at infinity
as in this image from the manual:
http://medfmt.8k.com/bronbroc/bronman12.jpg
To use the DOF scale, I'd recommend in general with any camera to use
the index mark one or two stops larger than your actual f-stop (so if
you were at f:16 and wanted to focus at the hyperfocal distance, for
example, I'd set the infinity mark at f:8 or f:11). I also use the
distance scale to determine my flash to subject distance when I use
on-camera manual flash.
David Goldfarb
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003
From: "anessa_pt" [email protected]
Subject: Re: WTB 40mm for EC
--- In [email protected], tim timeitniear@c... wrote:
> These seem to be hard to find, or am I not looking in the right places?
> Tks
>
> Tim
Hi
I'm down here is W OZ (Australia) and have a 40mm Zenzanon (I prefer it to the
Nikkor 40 f4. A 50 Nikkor 2.8 Great lens then 75-150 Komura (good for
portraits and the 200mm f4 Nikkor with closeup. Did you know you can
cut the wings off Sq screens and use them in Ec and ECtl cameras?
MUst brighter and since I have a 45 degree prism ideal. Missed out on
a couple of polaroid backs but really wanted a custom one to use with
the prism
regards
APT
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 30 Jul 2003
Subject: Re: Need Info on Vintage Bronicas
A great deal of information on old Bronicas can be found at Bob Monaghan's
great medium format mega-site-
http://medfmt.8k.com/bronica.html
Avoid Bronica S as weak and prone to breakdown.
Bronica C and S2 if properly treated will work really well.
Bronica S2A is the most rugged.
Bronica S2 and S2A take 12/24 backs for 120 or 220 film
Bronica C with built-in back takes 120 or 220 film.
Bronica C is the same model as Bronica C2 (never advertised as such).
In the USA this camera had the 1/1000 speed detent there but unmarked
so 1/500 appeared to be the highest speed. This was a marketing ploy
as both the model C and the (being cleared out) and defective model
S were sold at the same time, with the S being hailed as the better model for
having the higher 1/1000 speed. In Japan the model C was sold with
1000 plainly marked on the speed dial.
- Sam Sherman
From: Rich Shepard [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Stable tripod mount for long lens & S2A
Date: 17 Jul 2003
Victor Bazarov wrote:
>> However, mounting the long lens on the tripod with the camera body
>> hanging off the back seems to be less than rock solid.
>
> Doesn't the lens have a tripod collar you could buy? Maybe some
> other collar would fit?
Victor,
Please note that I wrote that the lens _is_ mounted on the tripod.
What I'll do tomorrow evening is go visit my machinst/photographer friend.
He has scrap aluminum tubing -- square -- that we'll cut to length and drill
to fit. We'll use a 1/4"-20 wing-head bolt for each of the lens and body
then drill a hole at the center of balance of the whole unit. The hole will
be threaded to accommodate the 1/4"-20 threaded quick-release plate for the
Manfrotto head. I used this lens only once since I bought it late last year
because I'm afraid of breaking the bayonet mount with the weight of the
camera body.
FWIW, I've used my Nikon 200 mm and the Komura doubler hanging off the
front of the S2A (on the tripod, of course) with confidence that the weight
is not excessive.
Thanks,
Rich
From: "Victor Bazarov" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Stable tripod mount for long lens & S2A
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003
"Rich Shepard" wrote...
> I have a Komura 400 mm lens for my Bronica S2A and a Manfrotto tripod
and
> QR head. The camera itself is very stable on this tripod with any of the
> other four lenses. However, mounting the long lens on the tripod with the
> camera body hanging off the back seems to be less than rock solid.
Doesn't the lens have a tripod collar you could buy? Maybe some
other collar would fit?
> My thought is to drill a steel bar and mount both lens and camera on
that,
> then mount the bar on the tripod so the weight is balanced on the tripod
> head.
>
> Thoughts?
Wrap the bar into some rubber foam after you finish preparing it.
I'd probably work on some kind of a fork with a sliding lower mount:
Side view: |-> A A-A view
|
! | / \ /
=== _ | / \ /
^ \=======/ #
~ |
|-> A
[ed. note: the above diagram reflects the tab/space compressed original, also illegible]
Legend: ! screw part of the tripod mount which screws into camera
^ (possibly a wing bolt head)
_
~ nut part (hole) for the tripod mount, sliding.
\/ - fork for laying your lens[es] into (the Y).
I am going to make myself something of the sort because one of my
200 mm lenses doesn't have a tripod collar and it's a PITA to use
it with a 2x teleconverter.
BTW, the entire thing could be machined from one steel plate about
1.5' x 1" x 0.25". The Y can be bent after the plate got a slit
from one end, the tripod mounts thingies go into holes machined in
the horizontal parts of the plate.
The only disadvantage of this design is that the lenses all have
different diameters so, there need to be either replaceable inlays
for the 'Y' or some leeway in the mount that holds the camera so
the camera could tilt forward for the lens to touch the 'Y'.
Victor
From contax mailing list:
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003
From: "Steven Inglima" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Contax] Sony/Tamron/Bronica
To the list:
I am told that Sony owns 100% of Tamron.
>>Sony is major owner of the Tamron stocks
That would mean that they also own Bronica and are in competition with the
Contax 645. I wonder why they would choose to use Zeiss lenses instead
of Bronica branded lenses?
I used to work for Tamron, and came there by way of having been the
technical service mgr for GMI/Bronica in the US for 15 years, and prior
with Ehrenreich Photo Optical Industries (the original imported of both
Bronica and Nikon).
Sony does not own Tamron, except in the sense that a great deal of
Tamron's business has been historically supplied by Sony. Their
relationship over the years was somewhat of an acrimonious symbiosis, in
that Sony needed Tamron's lens manufacturing (especially in the '80s and
'90s) for their camcorders, and much of Tamron's production (and profit)
was dictated by Sony's schedule.
As I understand it, the relationship between Tamron and Bronica was due
to the personal investment and relationship that a senior Sony executive
had with Mr. Zenzaburo Yoshino (in my opinion, a genius, and multi
patent holder and inventor of Bronica). When Yoshino-san passed away,
his company was left to his wife and sons, and through a series of
problems and setbacks, they needed an investor. The Sony exec strongly
recommended to Tamron that they buy Bronica as a vehicle for medium
format lenses that Tamron would produce. Tamron bought the company and
moved all of into their facilities.
Best wishes,
Steven Inglima
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004
From: "brent8927" [email protected]
Subject: Re: mercenaries on ebay.
Errr... I don't want to break anyone's bubble, but I've got some
fantastic deals on ebay that you could never get at stores. You can
usually buy things for darn near half the price as you would pay at
the store. And that's for NEW items. Every used item for my Bronica
S2A system I've bought on ebay has been a fantastic deal, and in
great condition. (Please don't tell me this is because the S2A system
is aged and unreliable unless you've used one, because it's proved to
be anything but that for me). In fact I've managed to aquire a body,
3 film backs, 3 Nikkor lenses for the sytem(50mm F/2.8, 75mm F2.8,
200mm F4), two hand grips, prism finder and waist level finder, and a
hardcase for a little over $400.00. Well... I guess I really got
screwed there...
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re:S2A and EC Focusing Helicoid
Just to add a little more information to the mix - yes, any of the focusing
helicals can be used on any of the Bronicas with removable helicals.
Interestingly though, there were three different helicals made over the life of the
camera series. The first series does not have any screw-in stops at the front of
the inner lens mount. The second series has three screw-in stops and the very
rare final version shipped with the later EC-TL has six of these screw-in
stops. Over the life of the camera, Bronica was constantly improving the camera and
this is one area the did a good deal of work on. The second series focusing
helicals are much smoother and had less "wobble" and play when fully extended.
The third were even better. This is not to say that all of you should rush out
and buy newer helicals, these differences are subtle, not major.
Ron Bennett
Monmouth, OR
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004
From: "David A. Goldfarb" [email protected]
Subject: Re: S2A and EC Focusing Helicoid
Brent,
Helicoids are completely interchangeable as mentioned in the previous
response. The only potential issue that could arise is that if you
have the Nikkor-Q 105/3.5 LS (leaf shutter lens), the procedure for
use on the EC and EC-TL is a little different from the S2 and S2A (I
forget exactly what needs to be done to use it on an EC, but check the
archives here and Monahgan's website for details, if you need them).
David Goldfarb
--- In [email protected], "brent8927" Bpennelly@s... wrote:
> Hello,
> Does anyone have a definite answer to whether or not I can use an EC
> focusing helicoid on an S2A? I know the lenses they use are the same,
> but I'm not sure if the coupling to the body is different. Thanks!
>
> Brent
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004
From: "jonathanperryphotography" [email protected]
Subject: Bronica to cease production of all 6x6 and 6x7 cameras ?!?!?!?!?
Hello all,
I'm new to the list so I apologise in advance if this has already
been covered.
I follow a few other forums regarding medium format photography and I
have heard rumours that Bronica are to cease production of the SQ-Ai.
The Japanese web site seems to support this (in Japanese, unhelpfully).
Now as I understand it they have already confirmed that they will
cease production of the GS-1 and the SQ-B.
This means no 6x7 or 6x6 MF cameras from Bronica anymore and no
further system upgrades (either bodies or lenses)?
10 years then no more official servicing or availability of parts.
I currently own an RF645 outfit, and a SQ-B outfit. In the past I have owned ETRSi's. I
was quite looking forward to owning a shiny new GS-1 at some point, however, this is
not looking likely now.
It would be very sad if Bronica stopped making it's 6x6 and 6x7
format cameras.
I sent an email to Bronica Europe last week but have received no reply as of yet.
Does anyone have any current news regarding this?
From bronica mailing list:
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004
From: "[email protected]" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica to cease production of all 6x6 and 6x7 cameras ?!?!?!?!?
I have heard this rumor as well( from a guy working
at my local camera shop). I didn't mind so much, since
I bought my SQ-Ai used, and will buy anything else for
it used anyway. But it does suck that they might be
discontinuing them. To me, 6x6 is THE medium format..
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