Special thanks to Larry Matthews - [email protected]
For permission to reuse this neat photo of his Bronica EC!!
|
Bronica EC-TL Manual Online Special Thanks to Michael Buchstaller!! |
|---|
Related Links:
EC/ECTL Foam
Replacement and Focus Fixes
Stephen Gandy's Bronica EC
Review (recommended!) [4/2001]
The Bronica EC was introduced in March of 1972 and represents a new
generation of Bronica design. The EC stands for Electronically
Controlled, as an electronic circuit controls shutter speeds in these
models.
The primary innovation of this model is stepped electronically controlled
shutter speeds from 4 seconds to 1/1000 second. The external evidence of
this unique feature is the oblong battery compartment in the base of the
camera, and the button and battery check light on the top left side of
the body.
In addition, the EC offers double exposure control (on the film back on
the right side), mirror lock up (lever on the left side), locking PC
terminal, dark slide storage pocket, split mirror, interchangeable
focusing screens and many other features.
All lenses of the Bronica system fit the EC, as does the extension tube
set. A new series of grips, #82041 L grip and #82042 pistol grip fit both
the EC and the S2A. The EC has its own bellows, which due to the longer
mirror has a different mounting plate than the S2A version, and its own
series of prisms, finders, and backs.
n.b.: In 1975, a new version called the EC-TL was the world's first medium format SLR providing built-in automatic exposure measurement. The EC-TL also provided the first aperture priority exposure control in a medium format camera system.
One point
highlighted in our features listing above is that the electronically
controlled speeds range from 4 seconds to 1/1000th. But the automatic
aperture priority mode only covers the range from 2 seconds to
1/1000th second. On the other hand, the exact intermediate shutter
speed settings are set using a stepless mode over this range. You
should consider the limits of metering (EV+4 to EV+19) carefully,
since parts of this extended range will not be available with all
lenses and film speed combinations. Similarly, some low light setting
combinations may fall below the EV+4 to EV+19 range of the
metering system. Naturally, you have to check and understand these
limitations with any automatic metering system, including the EC/TL.
However, be aware that the LEDs can be harder to see in bright sunlight or
with the open waist-level finder unless the magnifier is in use. The
shutter speed numbers can be hard to read too as the print is rather
small. Finally, you are advised by Bronica to keep your eye close to the
magnifier if using the waist level finder (or other eyepieces on prisms)
to help block ambient light.
Why? Ambient light from the viewfinder can reach the three silicon
photodiodes (SPDs) on the upper mirror, impacting exposure settings. One
of the three SPDs points upward to compensate for this viewfinder light,
but it isn't completely effective with all stray light beams. The other
two SPDs provide TTL exposure control. Actually, a number of 35mm SLRs
(my Nikons included) also suffer from perturbed meter readings from
stray light pickup from the viewfinder. A variety of eyepiece covers
are commercially available if this is a problem for you, or you can
jury rig an eyepiece cover when needed.
In practice, the user selects the desired aperture. The ASA has been set
from the film box (adjusted by experience).
The ASA dial may also be adjusted as an exposure control (e.g., for
backlighting). You
compose the picture, focus, check the LEDs to ensure acceptable shutter
speed, and trigger the shutter. Pressing the metering button on the left
side of the camera not only turns on the metering system, it also stops
down the lens.
In other words, the EC/TL uses stop-down metering, which is why it can use
the older Bronica lenses without change. When you are metering, you see the
stopped down,
dimmer image at the selected shooting aperture plus the recommended shutter
speed. That is why you should
compose and focus before you turn on the meter, so you can focus at full
aperture. In manual mode, the appropriate LED is
lighted, but naturally you have to set the shutter speed to match (or
off-set for special exposure needs such as backlighting). The
metering is very fast and responsive, so in borderline situations two
LEDs may blink back and forth.
The later production model EC/TLs were reportedly full averaging metering
systems, but some of the earlier models may have retained the
center-weighted metering of the earlier Bronica EC models (e.g., per a
review article in 1975 in Pop. Photo). A full
averaging metering system means that the SPDs are not biased towards any
one area (e.g., the center as in center-weighted metering). Each
method has its strengths and weaknesses. In the full averaging system,
light from the entire image is averaged into the exposure setting. See
Sept. 1975 Popular Photography (p.56) for "Better Exposure with Your
Through the Lens Meter" for more details and Bronica EC and EC/TL
data.
I have noted that the ASA setting is used as an exposure control, since
there isn't another way to bias exposures to match unusual lighting
situations. Unfortunately, there isn't a memory function that lets you remember and
set a shutter speed from a closeup meter reading.
But using the ASA setting, you can enter a wide range of under
or over-exposure to meet meter fooling situations (e.g., backlighting).
Naturally, you could also go onto manual mode and set the desired settings
manually.
There is also a lens based biasing control for the SPDs built into the
coaxial ASA and shutter speed settings on the same dial. Use the white
dot for 40mm to 100mm lenses, the yellow dot for 150mm and 200mm lenses
(and 135mm?),
and the red dot for long telephoto lenses in the 300mm to 1,200mm range.
Speaking of telephotos, the EC/TL also has a split mirror arrangement, in
which a larger split mirror section pops upward to cover the viewfinder at
the same
time the smaller lower mirror section drops downward. The three SPDs are
also located on the upper mirror segment.
In earlier S2/S/C
models, a single mirror dropped downward. To block the viewfinder light,
a separate curtain had to coverup and block light from the viewfinder
just prior to opening the cloth shutter over the back. Phew! But this
difference is critical due to the upward swinging EC/TL mirror versus
the earlier downward dropping mirror clearances. With the upward
moving mirror, the older S2A bellows and 105mm leaf shutter lenses
can't be used. [See Myron's update below and Ron's update
with notes on resolving the timing issue:]
Thanks to Myron Seiden for providing this update as part of his terrific
Bronica lenses article:
Someone stated that the 105mm lens could not be used on the electronic shutter cameras due to mirror interference. This is not correct, the restriction is use of the TTL metering which will not function with this lens as its shutter is released by the action of the stop down lever. The metering systems are actuated by the stop down system so you can see why this won't work properly. It would be wise to test this with individual samples as there are timing issues involved which may result in problems with some combinations of cameras and lenses.
The new split mirror
system was reportedly optimized for telephoto lenses, especially since the
larger top mirror is mainly used with these long lenses. By using this
split design and larger top mirror, Bronica has reportedly eliminated the
cutoff or dropout of light in the finder image that plagues many
small aperture long telephotos in conventional optical systems.
A second reason for the split mirror design was to reduce the noise and
vibration of the camera from the legendary loud mirror noise of the
earlier S2 series cameras.
But that upward moving large mirror segment has its own costs. The
earlier Bronica S2/A bellows can't be used with the EC and EC/TL
models. Similarly, the 105mm leaf shutter Nikkor raises some
issues when used on the EC/ECTL models. The focusing mount of
the EC/TL is also removable, as with the earlier S2A/S2 models, for
use with longer telephoto lenses with their own mounts.
One more caution is that there
have been some reports of difficulty in maintaining and realigning
these split mirror designs in both the EC and EC/TL. So be sure to
check this area carefully for mis-alignments before purchase! Repairs
are reportedly very difficult to secure precise alignment.
One nice feature is the return of a mirror lock-up switch on the side
under the flash shoe (missing in the S2a, but on earlier S models). You
can't set this by accident, as both a release
button and a lever have to be pushed and turned respectively to lockup
the mirror. You have to trigger the shutter before the mirror will come
back down. With the mirror locked up, you can't meter through the lens since
the SPDs are on the locked up mirror. So in practice, you have to meter
first, go
to manual mode, dial in the desired exposure settings, lockup the mirror,
and then take the photo.
Some Bronica EC and EC/TL users have complained of the difficulty in
finding and the higher cost of accessories for the EC and EC/TL series.
As later cameras, the costs of backs and accessories were naturally
higher to start with, and have stayed higher over time. The Bronica EC/TL
was superceded by the smaller ETR after only a
few years, so the volume and number of accessories is less than on the
longer marketed mechanical cameras. Indeed, the S2a continued to be
marketed alongside the EC and EC/TL models. Most importantly, the range of
accessories such as prism
viewfinders, bellows, and backs were different for the EC and EC/TL than
for the earlier S series cameras. With the exception of the 105mm leaf
shutter and the bellows, the full range of lenses and extension tubes
could be used on both the older mechanical and newer electronic
cameras.
On the positive side, some accessories
that are very rare for the earlier cameras, most notably the polaroid
backs, are relatively more available for the later EC series. I suspect
this is largely because professional photographers upgraded to the
first available auto-aperture priority medium format camera - the EC/TL.
In doing so, they bought polaroid backs for their new workhorse
auto-aperture EC/TLs. Once they discovered the quality and value of the
nikkor and zenzanon lens lines, they may have bought an S2a as a
spare backup body. Conversely, maybe those photographers with S2a polaroid
backs are still using them and hanging on to them.
Whatever your view,
there really seem to be many more EC/TL polaroid backs available than for
the Bronica S2a series mechanical cameras. This availability argument
would probably tend to push a budding professional photographer towards
buying an EC/TL because these needed studio accessories are more available.
The price difference between an S2a camera body and an EC/TL body is
only a few hundred dollars. But be aware of the additive costs of
needed accessories such as backs and prisms and screens. They can add
up in a hurry!
I have recently posted an analysis of Bronica
prices, including a listing advertised prices from 1975 and 1976 for
the EC and EC/TL. The list prices for the EC/TL body with back and waist
level finder was $895, 75mm f2.8 nikkor was $268, 80mm f2.4 zenzanon was
$227, while the 100mm f2.8 zenzanon was $284 from EPOI Inc. My price
analysis concluded that prices have been very stable over time, and
have gone up very little in dollar terms (under 1% a year). But if you
adjust prices for inflation (CPI=3x), then today's used Bronica prices
are only about 40% of the constant dollar cost of the new equipment.
Over that time, the cost of owning a Bronica EC/TL system could be
measured in terms of a few dollars a month. Compare that to the cost
of the latest Rollei system at $20,000 invested upfront!
In summary, the EC/TL was the first of the Bronicas to offer aperture
priority automation, while retaining use of the long line of 40+ Bronica
lenses while doing so. The split mirror design is optimized for long
telephoto lens users to prevent or minimize focusing image dropouts.
The return of a mirror lockup mechanism and double exposure features are
also noteworthy design items.
For earlier Bronica users, the EC/TL provides an auto-aperture priority camera upgrade path that preserves your investment in Bronica lenses. For new Bronica users, the EC/TL is an inexpensive entry point into medium format photography with an automatic aperture priority electronics feature. The cost of the EC/TL and its high quality Nikkor and Zenzanon optics is similar to the cost of professional 35mm bodies and optics from the same time period. This unique combination of medium format system camera flexibility with quality optics at a low price is an unbeatable combination for new medium format wanna-bees on a limited budget.
[Editor's note: abstracted from "First Look - Bronica EC/TL" by Michele Frank
in 4/75 Popular Photography article]
From Amateur Photographer Test Report by Tina Rogers Nov. 29, 1978
pp.88-93.
The standard lens is a multicoated Zenzanon 80mm f/2.8 lens by Carl Zeiss
Jena. The new lens performance is described as ''very good, with good
image contrast and balance of aberrations''. The best overall results
were at f5.6, while central definition was best at f/8.
Unlike the original EC, the EC-II provides a timed exposure on the B or
Bulb setting if the battery is dead or missing.
The EC-II accepts all EC-TL accessories. The article states these lenses
range from 40mm to 200mm with small bayonet mount, and from 105 to 1200
range with large bayonet mount adapter. Both mounts are supplied with the
camera. The second internal 57mm screw thread mount is still a feature on
the smaller bayonet mount, and will accept the standard CC or CD
extension tubes.
The small bayonet mount has focusing distances marked on the ring for
75mm, 80mm, and 100mm lenses (in meters only). On the larger bayonet
mount, the lenses have integral focusing rings with these distances
marked.
Cost of camera with standard lens in Britain was 499 pounds. Only the
Kiev 80 and Kowa Super 66 were less expensive SLRs. However, the
camera is a manual camera, without a metering system. You have to add
the optional TTL exposure meter accessory to get thru-the-lens
metering, at a considerable price.
Lots of accessories make this a very versatile system.
A fresnel focusing screen is standard, featuring a center matte spot. You
can buy a micro-prism center spot screen, a ground glass fine matte
screen, or a split-image center screen too. A reference grid is
provided to make perspective and vertical alignments easier.
On the waist level magnifier, you can replace the magnifier lens with 2x
or 3x dioptric magnifiers.
Besides the standard 120/220 back, you can use a type E back (16/32) for
6x4.5 exposures and a Polaroid back using type 107 or type 108 films.
Thanks to the interchangeable back system, you can easily change out film
types and formats as suggested above, limited only by the number and type
of backs available.
The dark slide must be in place fully to remove the back, and must be
removed fully for the shutter to fire.
The EC-II is a relatively noisy camera, thanks both to its focal plane
shutter and mirror design.
The test camera was surprisingly variable in shutter speeds for an
electronically controlled shutter, including a 2/3rds stop divergence for
the 1/1000th shutter speed to a measured 1/660th second. Obviously, this
is ''not good enough''.
There are lots of controls, since this is fundamentally a manual
camera.
To make multiple exposures, press the button the right side of the film
back from A to D (delayed) and advance the shutter by winding normally.
The control to switch from 12 to 24 exposures (for 220 film) is also on
the back. Finally, there is a film advance knob on the back that also is
useful for winding the film while the back is off the camera.
You may use film inserts with the backs, but take care to engage properly
so both sides click into place. The film back can only be opened by first
releasing a safety catch, which prevents accidental film exposure.
You can also reduce vibration by using the mirror lockup control, as well
as reduce noise.
The camera uses a six volt silver oxide battery in the underside of the
camera baseplate housing. The cover 'clicks-in' place. A battery-check
button on the left side of the camera lights a lamp to shown battery
condition, with a green light showing the battery is adequate.
The electronically controlled shutter is powered by the battery. There is
only one shutter release button. This shutter release button is
internally threaded, so it can take a cable release.
A depth-of-field preview button is available too on the opposite side of
the camera.
Both 1/4 and 3/8ths inch tripod bushings are provided on the camera
baseplate.
An accessory shoe and coaxial X-synch socket are on the left side of the
camera body. The accessory shoe is in the center of the body, opposite the
film wind knob on the other side, and provides the usual mounting bracket
for flash or other handles. The X-synch terminal is behind and above
accessory shoe, near the top center of the left hand side. The X-synch is
at 1/60th second (or less), marked in red on the shutter speed
dial.
Two full turns of the built-in crank are required to wind the film and
cock the shutter. The crank folds into the film-advance knob when not in
use.
The frame counter zeroes itself on reloading, and adds counts through 12
or 24 exposures depending on the film back setting.
There is a slot at the rear of the back for storing the dark slide,
helping prevent its loss. Above this holder, flat on the top, is a holder
for film box tab to help identify film type in use.
The camera is a purely mechanical camera, requiring either the TTL
exposure meter or external meter to set exposures. The weight is heavy
too, and a tripod is especially recommended for the slower shutter
speeds.
The major positive points are the huge range of accessories, the lenses
(with the normal lens being quite good) and ability to also do 6x4.5cm
format with the Model E back.
See also Bellows Type 2 Review
SPECIFICATIONS
Picture area - 55.2 x 55.2mm
Carl Zeiss Jena Zenzanon MC 80mm F2.8 lens
minimum aperture - F/22
click stops at full stops
fully automatic diaphragm
minimum focusing distance is 0.6 meter
6 elements in 5 groups
Filter size - 57mm screw-in type
[probably a typo- should be 67mm?]
Viewfinder
reflex TTL waist-level finder
field of view - 90 per cent
magnification - .9x
interchangeable screens
ground glass central spot
fresnel screen with grid
Exposure Control
Manual - optional TTL exposure meter
Shutter
focal plane electronic shutter
range 4 seconds to 1/1000th plus B
requires 6 volt silver oxide battery
Battery Check
upper left side button, lights green lamp
Flash Synch
X-synch at 1/60th second
coaxial synch socket (PC)
Shutter Release
internally threaded for cable release
has shutter lock
Film Transport
360 degree rotating crank - folds into knob
Frame Counter
self-zeroing
additive
12 or 24 (red dot)
Special features
change backs in mid-roll thanks to darkslide
Model E 6x4.5cm (16/32) and Polaroid (107/108) backs
film inserts for 120/220 film on standard backs
manual film winder on standard back for use off-camera
side mounting accessory shoe for flash etc.
multiple exposure button
mirror lockup
two tripod sockets - 1/4 and 3/8ths
depth-of-field button
depth-of-field scale on small bayonet mount (75,80, 100mm)
film box tab holder
back cover has safety lock
Size - 139x117x150mm body
Weight - 1980 gm (body)
Accessories included with camera:
battery
front lens cap
carrying strap with shoulder pad
Selling price - circa 500 British pounds
Distributor in UK:
Apparatus and Instrument Co. Ltd.
Alexandra Road
Hounslow, Middx
photos of camera body (s/n CB322637) and 6x6 back (s/n CM551123)
photo of large shutter speed setting control from 4 sec to 1/1000th
Lens Performance Table:
Definition, image contrast, balance of aberrations, and overall
performance all rated a very good (poor, fair, avg, good, very good,
excellent scale). Infinity focus is correctly set. Best overall
definition is at f/5.6 while best central definition is at f/8.
| Speed | milliseconds | measured |
|---|---|---|
| 1000 | 1 | 1.6 |
| 500 | 2 | 2.6 |
| 250 | 4 | 4.5 |
| 125 | 8 | 8.5 |
| 60 | 16.6 | 18 |
| 30 | 33.3 | 31 |
| 15 | 66.6 | 62 |
| 8 | 125 | 124 |
| 4 | 250 | 247 |
| 2 | 500 | 496 |
| 1 | 1000 | 1009 |
| 2 | 2000 | 2002 |
| 4 | 4000 | 4033 |
Measured X-synch value was 1/55th second.
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998
From: Georgia Wright-Hewitt [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: EC Accessorie - TTL Expsure Meter
I have just gotten an EC setup that includes a TTL Rxposure Meter. I
have gotten a reprint of the owner manual where an overveiw is give of
the accessorie but no real instruction on use. Can you supply any
information on the use of this acessorie or the name of some using it
that I might talk with.
Thanks, Larry Hewitt
[email protected]
From an EBAY for-sale posting:
Bronica Electro Control Metering finder for Bronica EC 6x6 camera. This waist-level through the lens (TTL) CdS fider can be easily attached on all Bronica EC cameras and give light readings from ASA 12 to 3,200, from f/2 to f/64, from 2 seconds to 1/1,000th second...
Editor's note:
In response to a query, note the above text stating that Bronica EC model uses its own distinct prisms and TTL finder mounts. So when shopping for not just EC backs, but also bellows and prisms, be sure that you look for versions of accessories that match your model Bronica finder and back mountings.
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998
From: Gary Glickman [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica Pages
Robert
A couple of thins have come up in the interviening time.
The difference between the EC and EC-TL focusing screens is the
printing of the shutter speeds on the screen. There are two screens,one
for the waist level finder amd a reversed one for a prism. This is for
metering information or to tell you where the automation is to set the
shutter speed. I have an EC screen in my EC-TL now and it works fine
except you can't tell the shutter speed that is suggested.
The metering on this camera is definately center weighted. By using
various lenses and various targets it is shown to be a strongly center
weighted system. I am reasonably sure I can visably see the sensor area
being about the size of the split image fouusing aid.
Thanks again for your response
[Ed. From a posting by Mike Doe:]
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998
From: Mick Doe [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica User listing
Robert,
Thanks for your advice. Here is some information about lenses, some of
which are not in
your listing:
My recently acquired ECTL came with a Zenzanon MC 75mm f2.8 (serial number
752325). Also listed in the User Guide as alternative standard lenses
were:
Nikkor 75 2.8 PC
Nikkor 75 2.8 HC
Zenzanon 80 2.4
I have a review (in Amateur Photographer, November 1978) of the newly released Bronica ECII which describes the standard lens as a Zenzanon MC 80mm 2.8 by Carl Zeis Jena DDR. Performance of the lens was described as very good in all respects....
From: [email protected] (Gardner811)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica EC/TL
Date: 28 Feb 1998
Hey Leon,
Let's see, below is a list of prices to expect to pay for each piece:
ECTL, generaly includes std lens, w/l finder, 12/24 back and a 75mm/2.8
(ex/xe+), about $650
NIKKOR O.C. 50mm/2.8
about $250 to $300
EC & ECTL backs are interchangable
about $ 220 to $250
Not counting any other accessories,this seems like a pretty good deal.
I have an EC & An ECTL II and just love them.
Dwight Gardner (Richmond, TX) [email protected]
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998
From: Frank and Janet Marshman [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica D, C, S, S2, S2A, EC, ECTL
I repair probably 10 to 20 focal plane Bronicas every month and to my
knowledge am the only one in the country repairing these on a regular basis.
There are several mistakes in my reading of your Bronica tips. These are
fine cameras and the reason there are so many problems repairing them is
that few repair shops ever got enough in to really become versed in the
problems they had. For the most part the repairs that I have seen done in
them are attrocious and wrong. They can still be brought up to a standard of
high quality, however there are some clutch parts that are now becoming more
difficult to obtain and will render the camera unusable. The ECTL has a
board in the metering circuit, (one of 5), that goes out and when it does it
leaves the camera dead. Bronica did correct that in the very end of their
production in a metering modification but these are not common and telling
the new design from the old is impossible without disassembling. Finially,
foam deterioration of the focusing frame and the mirror dampening plate on
the EC/ECTL are a problem for focusing and deterioration of the sub-mirror
stop on the early EC is a problem which causes the mirror to hang.
These are the most common problems of these cameras otherwise they are quite
fine.
Frank Marshman
Camera Wiz camera repair
169B Pleasant Hill Drive
Harrisonburg, Va. 22801
1 800 471 8133
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Bronice EC sticky shutter fix
From: [email protected] (Michael butkus)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998
I wrote to this group about my Bronica EC requiring a long time the
first time I shoot off a shot and still a small pause after that. I got
a response from a reader to check the rubber mirror stop.
Yep.. the soft rubber mirror stop was gummy.
I tried to clean it but no good.
I took scotch tape (just wide enougth to cover it but long enought to
wrap it around once) and cover the sticky rubber stop.
Perfect... no wait on the shutter.
The tape sticks very well to the sticky rubber stop.
I would try electrical tape but the thickness worried me.
A no cost fix! Now if someone can tell me what to clean the oil
off of my diaphram of my 75mm lens.
Getting the diaphram out is easy.
From: "Mike" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronice EC sticky shutter fix
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998
Michael butkus wrote in message ...
SNIP
>Now if someone can tell me what to clean the oil >off of my diaphram of my 75mm lens. >Getting the diaphram out is easy.
Remove the blades and clean each on with a good quality electronic
degreaser, I use Electo-Wash 2000 in my shop. Don't forget to clean ALL
the diaphram parts.
Mike
MF service
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998
From: "M. Butkus" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica EC slow firing solution
I purchased a used Bronica EC that had a slow firing
time. First time I fired (after a few hours) the shutter
would take from a few to 20 seconds to fire. After
the first shot, a small delay was still there.
If I used the mirror lock-up, the delay is only during
mirror lock-up, not the shutter..
I find out this is a common EC (EC-TL?) problem. I wrote to a number
of repair shops asking about repairs. Some offered to have me
send in the camera for a look-at ($$$).
I find out (from a on-line user) that the small triangle
rubber stop on the ECs deteriorate and become very sticky.
If you have an EC, wind it, lock up the mirror and
check the front of the triangular rubber stop with a
flat metal object and see if it is sticky.
I got some scotch tape (cut a skinny strip) just enought to
cover the width of the rubber stop and wrapped it around
the rubber stop. The tape holds very well as the sticky
rubber grabs the tape.
Instant success... no more slow firing. Even after a
day it instantly fires... the person that told me this
said he was told it was a bad capacitor, contacts, etc.
This works... I will look for some very thin black tape
to replace the scotch tape to kill off any reflections of
the shiny tape.
Hope this solves your EC problem. I don't know if black
electrical tape would work. Maybe some black fuzzy contact tape.
You have to keep the tape thin so the mirror will lay flat and not
get you out of focus.
Medium Format Digest Post:
From: Tsun Tam [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica EC Problem (Electronic)
Date: 1998-07-09
I have an EC and I HAVE THE SAME DEAD BATTERY SYMPTOM! I have check the current the camera draws when I'm doing nothing and found to my surprise that there is SUBSTANTIAL amount (if I remember correctly, either about 8mA or 20mA) of leakage current present. Remedy: I have none except to remove the battery when I'm not using it. But the amount of leakage is so much that I don't think the battery will last very long as the 6V battery is only rated at 160mAhr capacity.
I'm thinking of opening up the EC and put in a 'hard-wired' On/Off switch to manually 'kill' the battery connection. This works only if I can remember to turn the switch off. If I attach the switch to the shutter release so that the battery connection is made only when I depress the release, then the problem is half solved as I will have to keep my finger on the release for long exposures. I'll do this when I get so time...so busy right now.
If anyone has a service manual on the EC, it would help my dissection immensely!
From: Werner B�ckelen [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica ECTL - ECTL II identification
Date: 1998-07-16
Hallo Michael,
the answer is even easier. I own a ECTL-II. The camera has a sign on the right handside of the body, where "ECTL II" is written on. A ECTL has a sign, where there is only ECTL on it.
By the way, the major difference with this two models is, that the shutter with the ECTL II is controlled by a digital unit, whereas the ECTL has just a electronic unit. I never had any problems with the shutter. The major disadvantige of the ECTL II over the ECTL is, that in the viewfinder, you just get times from 1/30 on signed on. Below there is just one LED, that's it. The ECTL show also times in the Viewfinder, which are below 1/30.
I hope, I could help you.
Werner
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Ooffy)
[1] Re: Bronica EC/TL questions
Date: Sat Nov 28 17:36:56 CST 1998
Congradulation on getting one of the finest cameras made. To answer your
questions: There was a Bronica strap made fo the quick-release pins on the
camera but they are hard to find. Just so happens that Mamiya "copied" the
Bronica EC mount for their strap system for the RB67 and there are lots of
those out there.
....
(from http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronnotes.html posting...)
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace.medium-format
Subject: Re: Wanted: strap for Bronica S2A
Date: 08 May 2000
Try Koh's Cameras and other dealers in Shutterbug.
Order the wide strap for Bronica EC or ECTL - these will work fine on the
S2-A regardless of the wings. The post size is the same in all of these
models.
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica EC
Date: Sat, 03 Jun 2000
I too just picked up an old Bronica EC with a Nikon 2.8 lens for
250 bucks... Seemed like a good deal, its my first medium format camera
and the pictures are very sharp and clear.... Much nicer than 35mm
Joe
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Bronica EC back.
Hello Bob, How are you?, just a quick line to let you know that with some
light on the subject ( an email from Frank Marshman!) I managed to fix
that EC back problem. I mean what else does someone do on Christmas day?.
Being an auto mechanic helps a little!.
Regards Dean Jones.
P.S. If anyone needs to know they can email me. I also have a website
that may
be of interest at (www.croydoncamerahouse.com.au ). Just click on the
dog!!.
From Bronica Topica Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001
From: Shinsaku HIURA [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Is the list still alive?? and EC-TC/EC-TL2 Question
Hi,
>When it arrived, i saw that it is an EC-TL2. OK, so far so good, should >not be a problem. But when i tried the light meter, it did always show an >"M" in the viewfinder instead of the exposure time. When i change >the speed settings to automatic, the display works - very annoying !
Yes, it is also unacceptable for me, but it is the spec of EC-TL2.
The differences of EC-TL2 from EC-TL is
- the camera is controlled by DIGITAL electronic circuit
(EC-TL is analog)
- Light meter does not work when manual exposure mode. only lights "M"
- In A mode, shutter speed varies every 1/3 step
(EC-TL is stepless)
- in A mode, "A" lights on screen
- lack of manual slow shutter speed 4sec, 2sec and 1sec
now 1/2sec to 1/1000sec
- lack of slow shutter speed display on screen from 4sec to 1/15 sec.
now 1/30sec to 1/1000sec
I wrote the differences on my WWW site
http://www.ne.jp/asahi/shinsaku/hiura/camera/mednikkor/index-e.html
Here, all four medium format cameras with Nikkor lenses are shown,
(Airesflex, Bronica, Makina and Marshal press .. Marshal is rare)
but unfortunatelly my original site is written in Japanese.
See also Modern Photography, June 1972 for blurb on Bronica EC in
their What's New column.
[Ed. note: thanks again to Ron Bennett for sharing his experience and correction info!!] From: [email protected] [[email protected]] Sent: Fri 3/14/2003 To: Monaghan, Robert Subject: ECTL page error Dear Bob: Its been a while since we have communicated. I hadn't been to the site for a while a had reason to research ETR models and went to the new EC page. It great except it has a gross error that perpetuates the myth that the 105 LS lens cannot be used on the EC-TL and even states that it will damage the camera. Either the following statement on the page is wrong or I been doing something "wrong" since I have been successfully using the my 105 LS lens on my EC-TLs for over 25 years and have broken one yet. The article states: "But that upward moving large mirror segment has its own costs. The earlier Bronica S2/A bellows can't be used with the EC and EC/TL models. Similarly, the 105mm leaf shutter Nikkor can't be mounted without damaging the EC/TL, so be forewarned!" Maybe people say this because they do not actually use the 106 LS lens or they just do bother to think it out. The 105 LS works just as it was designed on an EC-TL. The only exception is that you cannot use the BTL meter feature, leave the camera on Auto, or get a picture if you set the camera's shutter speed faster than the lens' speed. But that ALWAYS been the case with the 105 LS on any of the cameras. The 195 LS is one of the best lenses available for the Bronica and they have gotten a bad rap due to the notice in the instructions that the lens cannot be operated by the preview button. Well, DUH! The lens is designed for a special purpose (which means one has to actually think before they shoot with it) and the shutter is triggered by the aperture lever, so trying to stop down the lens only fires the shutter. If you need to preview with the 105 LS, all you have to do is set it on Bulb. You loose the metering capability and the auto shutter feature on the EC and EC-TL with the 105 LS, but those features were not envision for the 105 LS lens' application. Using a 105 LS with an EC or EC-TL will in no way harm the camera. PLEASE try to get this corrected and not perpetuated the myth. Best wishes as always and thanks again for all your efforts, Ron Bennett Postscript:
From bronica Mailing list: Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 From: [email protected] Subject: Re: Digest Number 697 Dear Tim: I highly recommend the EC over an S2a. We have a pair of EC-TLs, every accessory Bronica ever made, and all the Nikkors from 40mm through the 1200mm Nikkor, some I can speak to this issue with a bit of hands on experience. The EC was designed from the ground up as a professional camera and is MUCH stronger than the S2a or the previous Bronica SLRs. This is not to say that an S series camera will not give you years of service, they are very good cameras, but not of the quality of the EC. Boy, this idea that there is some "problem" with telephoto lenses, specifically the 105 LS lens is unbelievable "rumor" out-of-control. I sure would like to dispel this misunderstanding once and for all, but it keeps coming up. This all stems from the note in the manual for the EC-TL camera (the model with the though-the-lens metering) which states that the 105 Leaf Shutter lens cannot be used with the auto-aperture feature of the EC-TL. The 105 LS lens will work just fine with the EC or EC-TL camera and operate as it was designed with no harm to the lens or the camera. You can even use it with the metering system in the EC-TL in a manual mode, it just cannot "automate" the leaf shutter since it is not electronic. The EC split mirror is one of the great advances in SLR design. It gave the EC a much larger mirror with the specific feature of IMPROVING viewing performance with telephoto lenses (I shoot with the 400/600/800/1200 Nikkors all the time and it is nice not to have the top of the image cut off the view screen like it does on the S series cameras). The split mirror balances the dynamics of mirror rise, giving the EC cameras the smoothest (although not the quietest, but then again, Bronica were never know for their "silent" operation ;-) ) of ANY medium format camera (we actually tested this a few years back with our oscilloscope and a pair of custom-made motion detectors on all the SLRs and the EC was by far the smoothest camera). And, the EC has a mirror lock feature as standard for really critical applications. The split mirror was also designed for accommodate the never released 30mm Nikkor Fisheye lens. But, if you have access to a lathe, it is a fairly easy job to modify a 30mm Arasat lens to fit the Bronica EC and this is spectacular combination! Good luck, Ron Bennett Monmouth, OR
From bronica mailing list: Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:59:19 EDT From: [email protected] Subject: Re: EC question Dear Christen: The EC does not drain the battery on B setting, so shoot away! The camera you refer to as ECII is actually designated EC-TLII. It is the model number Bronica used in the European market for the EC-TL camera to keep USA buyers of gray market cameras from Europe from having warranties in USA. They are the same camera - EC-TL or EC-TLII. Hope this helps, Ron Bennett
From bronica mailing list: Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 From: "anessa_pt" [email protected] Subject: Re: WTB 40mm for EC --- In [email protected], tim timeitniear@c... wrote: > These seem to be hard to find, or am I not looking in the right places? > Tks > > Tim Hi I'm down here is W OZ (Australia) and have a 40mm Zenzanon (I prefer it to the Nikkor 40 f4. A 50 Nikkor 2.8 Great lens then 75-150 Komura (good for portraits and the 200mm f4 Nikkor with closeup. Did you know you can cut the wings off Sq screens and use them in Ec and ECtl cameras? MUst brighter and since I have a 45 degree prism ideal. Missed out on a couple of polaroid backs but really wanted a custom one to use with the prism regards APT
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