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Canon Eos

My current 35mm system is Canon Eos equipment - some new, some old.  My system consists of the following:

  • Canon Eos A2 w/ VG-10, main body
  • Canon Eos 630 w/ remote release grip, backup body
  • 70-200 f2.8L USM
  • 28-80 f3.5-5.6 USM III
  • 50 f1.8 II
  • 430 EZ Speedlite w/ Compact Battery Pack E
  • Off shoe flash cords
  • 60-T3 off-camera shutter release
Other EOS equipment I have owned or used (and are listed here):
  • 100-300 f4.5-5.6 USM
  • 35-80 f4-5.6 USM
Of my current system, the A2, 50 f1.8, 70-200, and 430EZ see the highest usage. The 70-200 replaced my 100-300, which I had used since March 1993. The descriptions below get further into the features and my impression of the pieces through my experiences, starting with the camera bodies.

Canon Eos A2:This is, in my opinion, the best amateur camera available on the market. It handles well, is loaded with features, and costs hundreds less than its only true competition - the Nikon N90. My only problem with the camera is weight - it's too light. How can a camera be too light? Simple. Pick up an A2, throw on a large lens such as the 100-300. Notice how the camera isn't very balanced (it's lens-heavy). However, there is a solution. Aside from giving a welcome vertical release, the VG-10 Vertical Grip does an excellent job of adding a bit of weight to balance the camera. For those buying an A2 or A2E, I highly recommend also purchasing the VG-10. I consider it an essential as it greatly increases the balance and handling of the camera.  With the VG-10, there is no camera which handles as well except for the Eos-1 or Nikon F4s.
    The layout of the camera is excellent. I find the control dials are very straightforward, changing settings is fast and painless. You don't have to search for anything as Canon went to the trouble of clearly marking everything - something they need to do with the Eos-1.  The Custom functions are an excellent bonus - no running to Nikon for reprogramming to rewind with the leader out like with the Nikon N90. In addition, you can link AF to the AE-lock button, so you have more control over focusing. You also can have DOF preview and a number of other fun toys. Flash sync is reasonable at 1/200th sec, though I would like to see high speed sync added.
    In actual use, the A2 is exceptional.  The 5 point AF system does take some getting used to - it took me about 3 weeks to completely switch over from my Eos 630. However, once you are used to it, you'll find it far superior to the single central-sensor cameras, especially since you can choose which point you wish to use. AF is very fast and accurate, even when tracking moving subjects. This camera is ideal for an amateur sports photographer.  Metering is also excellent; I rarely have any exposure problems except in extreme situations where a hand held meter is required. The viewfinder is clear and bright; manual focusing is no problem (One complaint many AF users have about their cameras is the viewfinder is fine for AF, but somewhat lacking for manual focus - the F4s, N90, A2, and Eos-1 are the only cameras which receive relatively few complaints). The grip is quite comfortable and the camera balances well as long as you have the VG-10. The camera is not as rugged as the old all-metal cameras, but my A2 has successfully survived being dropped once or twice.

Canon Eos 630:As much as I like the A2, I think the 630 is one of the true bargains on the used curcuit. If I were Canon, I would have simply updated the 630 with current technology, added a few features, redone the control set-up, and called it the A2. The construction of this camera is second only to the Eos-1. Unlike many of the current AF cameras, the 630 has a full metal frame under the plastic. This camera is able to take real abuse (though I don't recommend abusing any equipment). One feature that I truly miss on the A2 is a lighted LCD display - the 630 has a light on the LCD display similar to that of the Indiglo light on Timex watches. This comes in very handy in low light situations or when you're doing night photography. In addition, the shutter on the 630 only draws power when opening or closing, so you can leave the shutter open all night for astrophotography and not waste the battery. The other feature I miss on the A2 is a separate DOF button - which the 630 has. Basically, the 630 has all the features of the A2, minus one or two things. You can also get the Technical Back E for the camera, which allows you to do some truly insane things - such as bracket an entire roll of film in 1/4 stops! The motor drive is a very respectable 5fps, but flash sync is only 1/125th.
    However, there are a few things about the 630 I don't like. First, the control layout is much to be desired. Some of the important controls (such as motor drive setting and AF setting) are hidden behind a little door on the back of the camera. Changing certain settings also requires pushing a combination of buttons. Second, you need additional accessories to do off camera flash. Third, the AF system is old. It functions perfectly, but isn't as accurate or as fast as the A2. It also has 1st generation predictive AF, so tracking is not so great, but it works. Finally, the camera has a 5 fps motor drive, but only 3 settings - 5 fps, single frame advance, or timer. Sometimes 5 fps was just too fast, and I would have liked a mid speed setting of 2.5 or 3 fps.  Mirror lock-up would also be nice... but now I'm nitpicking.  Many of these quirks could be eliminated if Canon redesigned the camera and introduced it as a new model (are you listening, Canon? Here's your new A3). Overall, my this camera has served me well, and makes an excellent backup to my A2. I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a good used AF camera.

28-80 f3.5-5.6 USM III Zoom: I received this lens as part of a trade for my Mamiya C33, and it has taken the place of my 35-80 USM.  Like the 35-80, the outer element rotates during focusing (which can make life a bit irksome when using a polarizer) and the construction is all plastic.  Focus is fast and near silent, though it lacks the full time manul override of the more expensive USM lenses.  As far as picture quality, the 28-80 performs well.  Enlargements up to 8x10 are reasonably sharp.  There is some distortion (as seen with most lenses in this zoom range), but it's not that bad unless you're making large enlargements.  I use this lens mostly for general photography and snapshooting, and I have been quite pleased with the results.

50 f1.8 II:Despite the plastic mount and barrel, this is a great lens. At a mere $80 new, it's a bargain. The glass is sharp and the lens focuses quickly (though it is a little noisy). Enlargements up to 11x14 are sharp and contrasty, and I've even made some enlargements equivilent to 16x20 with excellent results. If you prefer slightly better construction, find the older 50 f1.8 - it has a metal mount and a distance scale, but is slower to focus. Optics are about the same.

Speedlite 430 EZ: The 430 EZ was Canon's professional flash until the introduction of the 540 EZ.  Thus it has a decent guide number, auto zoom head, and quite a few power packs available - just what you would expect of a professional flash.  This flash works well, but needs an external power source such as the Compact Battery Pack E for fast recycling.  Without the pack, recycling from a full power flash can take 10-15 seconds on fresh batteries.  With the battery pack, it recycles in about 4 seconds.  For $60 or so, the battery pack is a great addition.  As well as speeding recycling, the pack also exdends battery life 2-3 times normal.  The downside - you're using 10 AA batteries, so I highly recommend investing in Nicads (which make recycling even faster, but they don't last quite as long).

35-80 f4-5.6 USM Zoom:I bought this lens new with my Eos 630. It's light, fast focusing, and very compact, but that's about it for good points. The outer element rotates during focusing, so using a circular polarizer can be difficult. The lens mount is plastic. No full time manual focus override like with the better USM's. More importantly, the optical quality leaves a bit to be desired (it's the same lens as the current 35-80 III). This lens just is not very sharp if you make any enlargements over 5x7.  8x10's are OK, but not great. Don't even attempt an 11x14. The lens also has too much linear distortion at the extremes - things bow out at 35 and in at 80.  It's quite noticeable even with some 5x7 enlargements shot at wide angle. My opinion - while superior to the zooms found in point and shoots, it's mediocre performance is not a significant improvement. If you're looking for a small and cheap lens for general snapshooting, this lens will be adequate, but I'd recommend spending a little more to get the 28-80 USM instead.

100-300 f4.5-5.6 USM Zoom:Good optics, full time manual focus override, smooth zooming, comfortable to hold, and solid construction, this is what a USM lens should be. I have made enlargements up to 11x14 with acceptable results. Pics taken at the 100mm end of the zoom tend to be a tad sharper, but things are still quite good at the 300mm end.  A fine lens overall, and it served me until I upgraded to the 70-200 f2.8 L.

70-200 f2.8 L USM Zoom: Weighing in at a hefty 2.7 lbs (1275 g), this lens is an impressive hunk of glass from Canon's premier L series. Designed for professional use, this lens is exceptionally rugged and tack sharp - after using this lens for only one roll of film, I could immediately tell the difference between in quality between this lens and my previous zooms. Sharpness and contrast is nothing short of amazing, and despite the weight, it handles extremely well. The tripod mount on the lens also makes it well suited for use on a monopod. I have been very impressed with the quality of the lens, and for those who demand nothing but the best (and who are willing to shell out the $$$), this is a well-crafted lens capable of matching the quality of fixed focal length lenses.


Medium Format Cameras - User's Guide to Buying and Shooting
by Peter Williams is now available from Amherst Media!! [1/2001]