Kodak Stereo Camera - Photo courtesy of B's Camera Collection Pages!
Stereo Photography Notes
Stereo Photography Notes
Related Links:
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Guide to making
digital stereo movies
Holms View Card Pages
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Slide Formats pages
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Twin Camera
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twin camera
gallery #2
Twin
Camera Cabling..
Stereoscopy
3D Design by
Dan (3d book list..)
twinned Ricoh
KR-10s (Front)
cameras
twinned Ricoh
(back)
twinned Ricoh (bottom
up)
Stereo Planetary
Images and photos
(Antonio Cidadao)
View Magic Couples
Tips
Anaglyph stills and
animations
Jupiter
Moon Stereo Photo
software web
sites re: lenticular use
cheap multi-interlaced
lenticular screens..
affordable
lenticular stuff from Taiwan
3D-Lenticular.com
http://www.iart3d.com
Dukemy 3D
pages
Stereo
Camera Repairs and Mods Pages [1/2001]
Steroscopic Imaging
Technology by Michael Starks
3D processing Lab
Listings [8/2001]
Stereo Views Pages
(Sylvain Halgand) [5/2002]
Views of classic stereo cameras from B's Camera Collection Pages:
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000
From: "Greg Kane, MD" [email protected]
Subject: RE: Current Twinnable Cameras
>> "Nikon is about to release the N80 SLR >> Good thing for twinners: it works with a screw in cable release."
REPLY.......
> ... if you invest in cameras that can only be sync'd > mechanically you will never be able to photograph moving > objects reliably. > Double cable releases are just not good enough and never will be. > (Cameras that can be electronically sync'd in a fairly simple manner are > the answer.
OK. But for anyone considering an electronically synched twin rig,
here's a warning. You can spend a bunch on electronic synch capable
cameras, and not get much synch for your money. I own FOUR identical
Ricoh cameras wired with conjoined external electronic cable releases.
Four cameras, over $1,200. Six possible camera-pairs. And not one of
them synchs well enough for flash. Not one of them synchs well enough for
reliable synch of walking people or wagging dog tails. Not one of them
synchs better than my OM2 twins with mechanical releases. And the OM2's
Zuiko lenses are tons better.
Modern cameras are not designed to synch for stereo photography. If you
buy a pair and wire the releases together and they do synch, good for you.
But understand, it ain't guaranteed.
If you buy a pair and crack the case and decode the circuit board and
solder the right wire to the right spot and don't break anything and it
works -- good for you. But is wasn't simple.
Greg
From 3d list:
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Twinnable SLR's
Allan Griffin
wrote and quoted:
< (Cameras that can be electronically sync'd in a fairly simple manner are the answer.
Gary: (1) What SLR cameras are these? Are they affordable?
(2) What fairly simple manner do you envisage for
electronically
synching them?
(3) How close (or wide) a tolerance are you prepared to
accept?
(I haven't read any previous posting on this subject)
Allan Griffin
>Then you have tremendous capability, especially for synchronized hypers. > Gary Schacker
First let me say that I approach this problem as a person who would never
remove the top or bottom plate from a valuable camera myself. I've owned
and used scores of cameras of many types and formats and vintages, but I
don't disassemble them! If you have the capabilities of a camera repair
technician, then I guess you have many options. I can solder together some
wire to make a simple connecting cable but that's about it!
For people like me, there are no obvious choices in current model SLR's
that are really easy to sync. Some success was reported on this list
recently with the new Pentax ZX-M. Apparently, these will fire
simultaneously when plugged together, but the factory remote release
cables are expensive and you would need two of them spliced together. It
was mentioned however that the tiny 3 pin plug that Pentax uses may be
available as a part at Radio Shack, making a less expensive alternative
cable possible. Boris Starosta purchased a pair of ZX-M's but ran into
difficulty as the cameras would not trigger his studio flashes. This
glitch may be irrelevant to you.
Others have mentioned the use of current (I think) Cannon Rebel cameras.
If memory serves me well, these cameras require more than a simple plug
together. Others will undoubtedly expand upon this as my knowledge of the
Cannon line is limited.
If you're willing to go to the used market you can take the Ricoh option.
Several on this list including myself have committed to the recent vintage
but now discontinued Ricoh XR-10M (or KR-10M which is the same). These
are manual focus, with aperture priority or manual exposure. I've been
using them for years and have acquired 4 bodies in anticipation of
eventual attrition. If you can find them used, they will sell for not much
over $100 per body. These cameras simply plug together with a two
conductor wire (the lighter the better) with a subminiature phono plug on
each end. No diodes or electronic components of any kind are required for
the connection. No external firing switch is needed. Trigger one camera
in the normal manner and the other fires with virtually perfect
synchronization. These connecting wires can be fabricated very very
cheaply from transistor radio earplug wires. Ricoh cameras use lenses
with the standard Pentax K-mount, so lens availability is huge, both new
and used. When mounted together on a small sturdy bar, a rig like this is
virtually a poor mans RBT although all images will be slightly hyper.
Some like this and some don't, but you face this with all twinned SLR's,
unless you mount the bodies vertically, which will limit you to the 2X2
format. You do have the option though of separating the cameras as far as
you want with longer cables, for true synchronized hyper stereos which can
be spectacular.
When and if a new SLR model appears that can by synchronized as easily as
the Ricoh's I think we will all be aware of it in short order! Then I can
stop repeating myself on this list like a Ricoh salesman! ;)
Good luck!
Gary Schacker
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000
From: "Allan Griffin" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Current Twinable Cameras
Hello David,
As has been mentioned elsewhere today, Ricoh KR-10M has been replaced by
XR-X3PF.
Add to this Pentax MZM. To my knowledge, these are the only affordable
currently available SLRs with built in cable release ports, making them
suitable for non-surgical twinning, Cameras are often known by a different
letter code in the USA.
Allan
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000
From: "Allan Griffin" [email protected]
Subject: Twinnable SLRs
Hello Guys and Gals,
This note offers a simple solution in an area where there appears to be a
great deal of uncertainty, trial and error and settling for something less
than acceptable sports action synch.
I am putting in a plug here for the ISU. If any of the many eGroup
members
reading this are members of the International Stereoscopic Union (ISU),
kindly say so in these lists. Annual membership is a mere US$20.00.
Members will have noticed that there has been a current series of articles
on this very topic.
If you are a non-member and wish to read more than sufficient readable
material on launching into twin SLR stereo, you would be well advised to
join the ISU and receive all back issues of the ISU journal "Stereoscopy"
where this subject has been and is being dealt with.
In a series to be published in "Stereoscopy" soon by David Stuckey, you
will
be able to read how to twin a pair of Olympus XAs for good synch.
To inquire about and/or join ISU, simply come back to me with your full
details: Name/address, phone & fax Nos., email address etc and I will
advise where you should send your US$20.00 or equivalent.
Allan Griffin
Secretary ISU
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000
From: Gabriel Jacob [email protected]
Subject: Re: Current Twinable Cameras
David Stuckey writes:
>So for my 20 cents worth the current cameras suitable for twinning are: > >Ricoh KR10M >Olympus XA >Olympus XA2 >Olympus XA3 > >Anyone care to add to this list????
Sure! The Ricoh 35R P&S camera. Wlad (another P3D list member)
introduced me to this remarkable camera. For a relatively
inexpensive price, it offers manual override, electronic
shutter release, and slew of other features. The connections
are made by a simple miniature audio plug. I've gotten pretty
good syncing between them this way. Wlad wasn't as lucky and
had to and open them up.
He had written and posted an article on how he went about to wire
them up. Check out,
http://www.generation.net/~jacob/35r/35R_mods_for_3D.htm
Gabriel
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Twinned camera synch
This is another plug for the ISU. Stereoscopy has had an article on
adjusting the electronic synch with a simple bit of circuitry and another
on a solenoid-sych for mechanical releases. My copies are still buried in
boxes, but the electronic synch allowed a rather accurate setup.
Bill Moll
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000
From: Lawrence W Kaufman [email protected]
Subject: ISU (was Re: Twinnable SLRs)
Allan Griffin wrote:
> I am putting in a plug here for the ISU... > To inquire about and/or join ISU, simply come back to me with your full > details: Name/address, phone & fax Nos., email address etc and I will > advise where you should send your US$20.00 or equivalent. > Allan Griffin mailto:[email protected] > Secretary ISU
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am surprised by the list in the latest Stereoscopy
Why aren't there more stereo camera club members?
These 26 clubs are ISU Member Clubs: AUSTRALIA - Sydney Stereo Camera Club (SSCC) " - Victorian 3-D Society AUSTRIA - Stereo Branch of the Photographic Society of Vienna CANADA - Vancouver 3-D Club DENMARK - Stereoskopklubben FRANCE - St�r�o-Club Fran�ais (SCF) GERMANY - 3D-Raumbildclub e.V. " - Deutsche Gesellschaft f�r Stereoskopie e.V. (DGS) NETHERLANDS - Nederlandse Vereniging voor Stereofotografie (NVvS) NEW ZEALAND - New Zealand Stereoscopic Society SLOVENIA - Stereoskopsko drustvo Ljubljana SOUTH KOREA - 3D Club of Korea SPAIN - Agrupacio Estereoscopica 3-D Fotografica SWEDEN - Stereofotogruppen SWITZERLAND - The Swiss Society for Stereoscopy UNITED KINGDOM - The Stereoscopic Society " - Third Dimension Society (TDS) UNITED STATES OF AMERICA: Cascade Stereoscopic Club (CSC) Chicago Stereo Camera Club Cordova Camera Club Detroit Stereographic Society National Stereoscopic Association (NSA) Ohio Stereo Photographic Society (OSPS) Photographic Society of America (PSA) Stereo Division Potomac Society of Stereo Photographers (PSSP) Stereo Club of Southern California (SCSC) These clubs are NOT listed as member clubs: AUSTRALIA - The Stereoscopic Society - Australian Division DENMARK - Danish Stereo Society FINLAND - Suomen Stereokuvaajien Seura GERMANY - Foerderverein fuer Kaiserpanoramen e.V. " - View-Master Club, Deutschland HUNGARY - Hungary Stereo Club /OPKAFI ITALY - Associazione Stereoscopica Italiana JAPAN: International Baka-stack Association Japan 3-D Club Japan Stereoscopic Association Japanese 3-D Forum Kansai Stereo Photo Club No-nai Resort Kaihatsu Jigyodan Osaka 3D Association Stereo Club Hanabusayama Branch SPAIN - Spain Stereo Club USA: Amateur Photographic Exchange Club (APEC) Stereoscopic Society of America (SSA) Arizona Stereographers Oakland Camera Club (OCC) Pasadena Stereo Club San Diego Stereo Camera Club (SDSC) Northern Colorado Stereo Club Rocky Mountain Stereo Club Central Florida Stereo-3D Club (CFS3DC) Atlanta Stereographic Association SWISS (SouthWest Idaho Stereoscopic Society - tentative name) Chicago Stereo Camera Club Wichita Stereo Club Rabbit Hash 3-D Photography Club Stereo New England (SNE) Motor City Camera Club K.C. Metro Photographers Association - Stereo Division Stereo Society of St. Louis In-Depth, the Stereo Photography Club Genesee Valley Stereo Guild New York Stereoscopic Society (NYSS) Greater Cincinnati Stereo Club (GCSC) Stereo Club of Philadelphia Austin (unnamed) Stereo Club Utah Stereo Club Puget Sound Stereo Camera Club
Thanks for the time,
Lawrence Kaufman, mailto:[email protected]
SCSC website: http://home.earthlink.net/~campfire
SCSC eGroup home: http://www.eGroups.com/group/3dphoto
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000
From: "Allan Griffin" [email protected]
Subject: Fw: Twinnable SLR's
Gary, Hello once again,
Just a few more words on this question of just how easy it is to synch
a pair of Ricoh KR-10M, their later replacement, Ricoh XR-X3PF,
Pentax MZM and possibly the latest Ricoh 35R.
Of course, its very easy to grab any two of a same model of any of any of
the above and link them together via their external release ports.
However, the degree of "synch" or "out-of-synch" you get is purely in the
lapof the gods. All these cameras have a "tolerance" allowed where the
individual CPUs can be + or - a certain tolerance with respect to the
design position. When you grab any two cameras of the same kind at
random, you run the risk of getting one at max + (plus) tolerance of say 5
milliseconds (ms) and one at max - (minus) tolerance of say 5 ms, then you
have a pair of so called synched cameras that are 10 ms out of synch!
The position can easily be even worse than this. On the other hand, you
only need to find a pair of cameras which hasthe same degree of either
plus or minus tolerance (thats average tolerance - because the fine line
does wave around a little - and you are in business with an acceptable
degree of synch for sports action and the like). My goal is to get a pair
that is within 0-2ms variation 80% of the time. Sometimes one has to
settle for this at say 70% of the time!
The testing system for the above is very simple. The time to test is at
point of purchase. Once you have bought your cameras, its really too
damed late to fix them (or you have been extremely lucky) without going in
for internal master/slave surgery, rigging an electroic synch box or the
like.
If there is sufficient interest, the above can be explored further.
Allan Griffin
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Realist Lenscap Fix
This is by far the easiest fix ( of the 3 ideas in R&D right now :-))
First....don't expect the cap to function like the origional
design....in fact you'll love it or hate it. ( I love it cause I can
SLAM the cover shut!:-))
Here's all you'll need: 1" or wider black electrical tape, long strips
of peal and stick velcro, powerful " refridgerator "style magnets,
scissors.
1) Lay the camera on it's back and place the loose lenscap in position.
Stretch the tape across the top of the bakelite ( along the edge where
the bakelite meets the camera) Or, you may wish to loosen the bakelite
screws and pinch the tape between the bakelite and body, although this
is not necessary.
2) Cut the tape to the width of the lenscap.
3) carefully stretch and scrawl the tape over the hinge and over the top
part of the lenscap. Use a fingernail or small phillips to press the
tape tight
4) this forms a flexible " soft-hinge" which is very secure. Using a
razor knife, trim the tape flush with the cap edge, and around the
raised lens barrels and make sure the edges of the tape are smooth and
sealed tight
5) check the hinge by opening and closing the cap, making sure all slack
is removed.
6) Apply a thin strip of loop velcro ( the soft side...use a white piece
for cosmetics) on the lensplate just above the bakelite. Make sure the
velcro piece is cut flush to the top of the camera.
7) Apply a black piece of hook material ( the harder piece) over the top
of the lenscap above the lens barrels. Make sure both pieces of velcro
run across the entire width of the lenscap!
8) Now, open the cap and press the velcro together.......move the camera
around. The lenscap will stay up!
9) Now make your closing latch. This is a "gravity" design which will
work very well for most situations. ( My second mod holds the cap closed
much tighter...but I'm not ready to share yet until proven)
Glue the magnets inside the lenscap, and corresponding points on top of
the center bakelite piece. Try trimming 4 triangles that will seat
beside the lens barrels, and match locations on the camera bakelte. This
may require that you build up an area under the magnets so the magnets
join each other for maximum holding power.
10) or use small velcro tabs in the same manner
Now you can SLAM the cover shut!! Never break the door again. I'm not
sure how long the tape will last but I've been using my Realist for
weeks and the mod works perfectly! Now 95 degree weather may require a "
nip and tuck" but we'll see. Mod #2 involves a rubberband and
spring.......I'll report back. Good luck!
Mark Dottle
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Poor Man's Red Button
The RBT cardboard folding viewer has decent lenses, but the diffuser
ruins the quality of the view IMO. Try this....carefully cut away the
diffuser with an exacto/razor knife. Careful not to nick and score the
cardboard apertures. Use tweezers to peal away the excess plastic
leaving open clean aperatures. Place a pair into the viewer and look at
a lightbox. Ta da!! Looks almost like a Red Button to me. :-)
Great for 2x2 previewing also......lay the slides on the light table and
place the viewer directly over the slides. This is actually faster than
using a pinsharp viewer for previewing.
Mark Dottle
From 3D Mailing List;
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000
From: "Bob Porter" [email protected]
Subject: Re: lenticular sources
Ken Conley is the premiere manufacturer of lenticular in the US, if not
the
world. Everyone else I know who sells lenticular has Ken somewhere in
their
supply chain.
And he's a wonderful guy to boot!
His company is Micro Lens Technology 704.847.9234.
- Bob Porter
From 3D Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000
From: "John Blackwell" [email protected]
Subject: Re: lenticular sources
......
On the Web at: http://www.microlens.com/
--John Blackwell
From 3D Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000
From: Bill Costa [email protected]
Subject: Re: lenticular sources
This question got me thinking, have computer stereographic images
been done by placing a lenticular sheet on an LCD screen? I know
that VRex (http://www.vrex.com/) has taken advantage of the
precise alignment of the pixels of an LCD screen to use polarizing
sheets with alternate bands of polarization, thus allowing viewing
with just ordinary 3D polarized glasses. But I'm curious if anybody
has used the same basic idea using a lenticular sheet for
a glasses-free display. Seems like an obvious notion, I'd be surprised
if it hasn't been done already.
Later....BC
From 3D Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000
From: Gabriel Jacob [email protected]
Subject: 2-D to 3-D Software
As I mentioned this morning, there was some 2-D to 3-D
software I came across a few months ago. I found the
link to it. If you want to try it, you can download from,
http://www.vrstandard.com/software/sic/sic.htm
I haven't had much time to evaluate this program, but it
does look interesting. Has any one done any conversions
using this software?
Gabriel
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000
From: Gabriel Jacob [email protected]
Subject: Re: Reducing the lense seperation
Jim Harp writes:
>I've also been playing with putting the right XR-10M behind the left one. >In this case the lense seperation is only reduced to 4 1/2", but the left >lense ends up being only 1 3/4" in front of the right one. I'll be >interested to hear what you think of the results if you do try this.
I don't remember exactly who it was (Alan Lewis I believe), but someone
posted on P3D a few years ago, that he had pretty good success with
the one camera behind the other technique.
Alan Lewis has also come up with other inovative stuff over the years,
and obviously you are in good company!
http://members.home.net/3-d/projects/projects.html
Gabriel
From Sell -3d List:
Date: Tue, 2 May 2000
From: Jon Golden / 3D Concepts [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [sell-3d] Stereobase calculator
3D Concepts offers a compact SLR calculator with a clip so you can attach
it to your tripod, while out shooting. It has a scribed plexi-rule that
allows you to simply and quickly cross-reference any two knowns below, to
figure out the third unknown.
1) Lens focal length (in mm up to 500mm)
2) Stereobase (in ft/in up to 100ft)
3) Distance (in ft) to closest object in viewfinder (from 3ft to 1 mile)
Parameters based on the equation b=np/f
b=base
n=nearest object
p=parallax of 1.2mm
f= focal length @ infinity
25.00 delivered in the US, in stock.
MC/VISA/AMEX/DISC
or mail payment to:
Jon Golden
3D Concepts
Box 5077
Wayland, MA 01778
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000
From: Michael Watters [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [sell-3d] Stereo Hacking Book
I've managed to get myself resettled after a really big
move and busy year. As such, I'm once again in a position
to be offering copies of the "Chopping Block: A beginner's
guide to stereo camera hacking projects". As the title
would suggest, it's oriented around novice camera hackers.
What that means is that the directions are very explicit
and are meant to walk the reader screw-by-screw through the
projects. Chapter titles are:
Base Separation Calculator (includes a template for
building your own).
Anaglyph lens modification (modifying a medium telephoto
lens to take anaglyph shots with a single lens/camera)
FED Camera modifications (everything I did to my own)
A simple Slide Bar for Single Cameras
A simple twin camera bar (good for compacts or SLRs)
Realist viewer to 7-perf conversion (modifying your viewer
for wide-format slides)
XA-2x2 twin camera rig (how to wire a set of Olympus XA-2's
together for a twin rig. Chapter includes wired or
wireless versions of the rig.)
Nimslo modifications (hacking out to twin full-frame or
2-2-2 progression)
High Quality Filmstrip Previewer (for checking out uncut
rolls)
Macro camera principals (a brief review of some of the
various approaches to building macro cameras. Not
step-by-step, meant more to inspire than instruct.)
Argus "See-3D" Siamese stereo camera (building a stereo
camera out of a pair of Argus C3's. Hey! They are fully
manual and have interchangable lenses... Hardest hack in
the book, but the easiest siamese camera to build)
The book is $25 including shipping in the US.
Michael Watters
360 McIntyre Ct
Valparaiso, IN 46383
Email for questions:
[email protected]
[email protected]
From Sell-3D Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000
From: Dan Shelley [email protected]
Subject: [sell-3d] Imitation ViewMaster Viewers from China
Hi again all,
I have been fortunate to find a set of brand new imitation ViewMaster
viewers from China. They are in a package called Stereo Viewer and contain
two plastic reels with what look like animation cells in them. I have both
Blue and Green models available. Here is a quick picture of one:
http://www.dddesign.com/temp/chinavm.jpg
If you would like to get one of these for your VM collection, please write
to me personally and have me set one aside for you. They are $4.00 each.
Thanks!
Dan Shelley
[email protected]
http://www.dddesign.com
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000
From: Jan Bottcher [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] OT Nimslo Hacking
Bob,
don't destroy any more Nimslos, you can get the lenticular lense (hihi!)
processing from i3Dx ("i3Dx - Customer-Service"
[email protected]).
Jan (who believes that 3d/stereo is even more catching than panoramics)
Robert Monaghan schrieb:
> ...lately, I've gotten into camera hacking - converting nimslo 3d cameras > into hasselblad xpan clones (72mm film channel! for $25 used); ... > grins bobm
From: Benjamin Librande [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: 23 Jun 2000
Subject: Re: stereo photography with SLR
If your trying to produce stereo images you can try it on computer. A
program is available freeware at www.sipnet.gr.jp/3dss/index_e.html This
came from a previous discussion months ago on the newsgroup. I have not
tried this program as I'm a Mac user and I don't know of a freeware mac
version.
This might be a good way to test the water before investing in other
equipment. Goodluck in your efforts.
Hubert wrote:
> Is it possible to take good stereo pictures with a standard > SLR just using an tripod ? > > What would happen with for example soft moving > watersurfaces in a steady landscape ? > > To project stereo slides, there have to be two pol-filters > - do they have to be linear or circular, or doesn´t it > matter ?
[Ed. note: panoramic stereo!]
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000
From: Michel Dusariez [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stereo panoramas
In my STEREO PANOPTIC 360 degrees sysytem I use a home made camera who
have two lens separed from 3 inchs and taking in the same time on the same
film a full 360 degrees turn ( and a little more !) The result is a pair
of full 360degrees stereo 3D full length pictures with moving things
stopped. To see them I put them one above the other and look at t�hem with
the VIEW MAGIC viewer from Dimension press.
Michel
UNLIMITED FIELDS RESEARCH PANOPTIC IMAGING KITE AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY WORDWIDE ASSOCIATION - FOUNDATION 14, Avenue Capitaine PIRET B-1150 BRUXELLES - BELGIUM Fax 32 2 512 68 29
From Contax Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] 3D photos
> From: "John L Lovell" [email protected] > Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [CONTAX] 3D photos > > I have been a stereo photography "fanatic" for nearly 30 years. In fact, > it's the only kind of photography I'm interested in.
Kodak has shown 3D images converted from single negatives using a
proprietary computer program. I don't know precisely how it works since
they have been secretive about the details. The images they showed were
displayed as large backlighted lenticular transparencies.
I used to shoot a lot with my Realist but haven't put film through it in
ages.
However, I have done stereo shooting in recent years with the professional
multi lens cameras. One of my most interesting jobs was to shoot a series
of life size and larger than life nudes with the five lens camera which
uses 220 film and only gets five shots per roll. These were shot for Alan
Lo (formerly the Lo in Nimslo) and exhibited as very large backlighted
transparencies at photokina.
Bob
From 3D Photo Mailing List:
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001
From: "Bob Porter" [email protected]
Subject: Re: 3-d Technology Company
>>Does anyone have information about the 3D Image Technology Inc. company in >>Norcross GA
You can mail your Image Tech film for processing to:
3D Imaging Systems 20700 Plummer St. Chatsworth, CA 91311 tel. 818.717.9553
The charge for a 24 exp. roll or single use camera is $24.85.
The charge for a 36 exp. roll is $34.05. Add 8% tax for California
residents.
You can print a .pdf copy of our order form at
http://www.3dis.com/prints.htm
It is best if you pay with Visa or Mastercard, we only bill for the exact
number of good prints which turn out. U.S. Checks or money orders are also
accepted.
Please note we are unable to make prints from 4-lens 3D cameras such as
Nimslo or Nishika.
Sincerely,
Bob Porter
From Panoramic Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001
From: "Thomas B. Kunz" [email protected]
Subject: AW: 3d panoramas
Brian,
if you mean real 3D than please have a look at:
http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/Thinktank/9588/index.html
this way is the only way I know.
Thomas
> Betreff: 3d panoramas > I have been playing around with the idea of javascript rotating > 3d panoramas. Can anybody suggest a site somewhere on > the net where this has been done and can be viewed. Or am I > pushing the envelope too far? > Brian
[Ed. note: long sold, but posting included for other info...]
Date: 15 Jun 2001
From: [email protected] (vincent)
Newsgroups:
rec.photo.marketplace,va.forsale,dc.forsale.misc,md.forsale
Subject: FS: Nishika 8000 3D camera $40
Nishika 8000 3D camera. 4-lens system.
Still in wrapped original packing.
comes with:
-Flash unit
-manual
This camera uses standard 35mm films(ie. Kodak, Fuji etc.) and can be
processed at the following location 'thru mail:
1) Nimstec (770)497-0727
4850 River Green Parkway
Duluth, GA
2) Ritz Camera Center
6711 Ritz Way
Beltsville, Maryland 20705
3) I believe there's a lab in Austin that processes these films but
I can't remember where I saw it.
Used units are selling at $150 in used camera equipment stores.
This unit is going for $40
shipping $10
contact: vince 202 366 8992
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001
From: John Halliwell [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Series 1 MF lenses
David Jenkinson [email protected] writes
>>I have the 'QDOS' (pseudo 3D effort) version of the 70-210 f/2.8-4. To >be honest I haven't used it very much, purely because the QDOS stuff >gets in the way > >What is that? I've never heard of it.
It's a weird system that puts a red filter across one half the lens and
blue across the other half internally. The images are viewed with
red/blue specs (one colour each eye - I forget which way round).
The images certainly appear to have depth to them, but only in various
planes of the subject. As with most 3D stuff, the effect is best if you
carefully compose the shot to have subjects in various planes to start
off with.
If you're interested, I'll see if I can dig out any shots, scan them and
slap them on my site (I presume the effect will still work the same way,
apparently it works on projected slides).
--
John
Preston, Lancs, UK.
Photos at http://www.photopia.demon.co.uk
From 3d Mailing List;
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001
From: Thom Gillam [email protected]
Subject: Print processing for Realist and Nimslo negatives
Periodic announcement:
I have found a processor who is keenly interested in providing quality
Realist and Nimslo format prints. Of course, his interest is whetted by
the fact that he can charge accordingly high for the service, but you get
what you pay for, and his service is WORTH EVERY PENNY!
Here's the official blurb...
REALIST (and NIMSLO) PRINTS - AT LAST!
Stereo Prints from Realist format (5 perf) and Nimslo (4 perf) negatives
I have found a processor to do prints from Realist and Nimslo format
negatives. Although the service is not cheap, it is GOOD! They make the
prints on a medium-format print machine, mask to the 23mm x 24mm size of
the negative (or 18mm x 24mm), then enlarge to approx. 3-1/2" wide x
3-3/4" high on Kodak paper (other sizes available on request - prices may
vary). Each exposure is set manually, and matched with the corresponding
negative to produce MATCHED pairs.
I have had four rolls done, with only one redo: they printed one negative
twice instead of a left and right pair. They cheerfully reprinted (for no
additional charge) and even mailed the prints along with my UNCUT, ROLLED
film, to save me from having to make the 60 mile round trip drive to pick
them up. As soon as I get a chance to mount one I'll post an example in
the eGroup Files.
Here's the deal...
$3.00 per roll for developing. Film is returned UNCUT, ROLLED and
sleeved in plastic. Neat.
$1.00 for each print - that's right...$2.00 per pair (Ouch! But hey, you
get what you pay for).
This price applies to any uncut film when all images are
printed, whether they process it or not.
Reprints
$1.50 per print for selected reprints from uncut film if at least 50% of
images are selected.
$2.00 per print if less than 50% of images are printed.
$2.00 per print for reprints from cut film - $4.00 per pair (double
Ouch!).
7% per order shipping and handling.
Prices subject to change without notice.
All film will be sent to me. All payment will be made to "Dan's Camera
City" by personal check, money order or credit card (the store will call
the cardholder to comfirm payment when the order is ready to ship).
As sole stereo agent I get a credit on each order (please help a fellow
stereographer feed his habit!). In return I will personally inspect your
prints to insure that pairs are matched and clean. Any I deem
unacceptable will be reprinted before I send them back to you. As a
printmaker for over ten years, I know what to look for. As your 'stereo'
agent, I deal directly with the owner (Dan), so if there are any questions
or problems I know that he will make things right.
Let's face it, previous processors have lost interest primarily because
there is no profit in it. As I said, this service is not cheap, but will
be available long term therefore.
Interested parties may contact me at:
Stereophiliacs�
Thom
From 3d mailing list: Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 From: "Dalia" [email protected] Subject: More info in Vivitar Stereo Camera We tried the NEW Vivitar stereo camera out ourselves and included more detail along with the specs on an ebay auction for the camera. We feel very positive about the results. Our only disappointment was in the viewer for failing to be able to show full image without redirecting our eyes, but in spite of that, and because of its versatility, Vivitar has come up with a viable product. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1289441151 We're looking forward to hearing from others and their experiences on Photo3D. direct link to camera http://www.3dstereo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=3d&Product_ Code=CAM-VIV&Category_Code=SCA Dalia http://www.3Dstereo.com
From panorama mailing list: Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 From: Michel Dusariez [email protected] Subject: Re: Stereo panoramas >Merci beaucoup Michel, >Ou est que je trouve d'autre information d'un 360 degree panoptic camera? >Now were getting to the meat on the bone. 360 degree panoramas! How do you >view them?I believe that I have been to your site but can't find the >pointers now. >Many thanks > >Craig Woods >PO Box 91 >Honeydew 2040 >South Africa >[email protected] >http://www.phtographers.co.za/ >Mobile: 082-322-2851 Dear Craig, Find hereunder a little more about what I have done in stereo and panoptic photography. Feel free to ask more if you need. Panoramic Conversation or 25 years of turning around. Michel Dusariez: Since 1986, I have been interested in photographs taken with Cirkut cameras, which are large format panoramic cameras dating back to the beginning of the century, of which many are still in service, especially in the United States. I started my own exploits in panoptic photography with a transformed Rollei 35 ( April 1987) the reasonable results of which encouraged me to persevere. The way the technical inventor's mind works, means that he is in constant need of efficient tools and materials and has to do with the available means And the constant doubt as to whether he will succeed often means that he reluctant to invest - an cruel dilemma. A trip to Japan in 1989 with a view to demonstrate the advantages in the use of kites for aerial photography, (1979) and the fact that I met Hideaki Sato, amateur builder of panoramic cameras confirmed me in my intentions. The first results gave me negatives of 250 mm x 24 mm which I thought were far too long, and I decided to go on to build a prototype based on a single use Fuji with a 25 mm lens which gives me negatives of 157 mm x 24 mm. The length/height ratio was improved, but still too long for my taste. This camera was named "Rubbish" (1989) because it was made from scrap parts only and it works quite well. I then came upon the ides of a non-definitive transformation of a modern SLR camera. Cameras with an interchangeable back make it possible to construct a panoptical interchangeable back system with two interchangeable motors for two different speeds. The focal length chosen, was deliberately very short with a view to reducing the negative length. This gives a negative of 106 mm x 24 mm. We reduce the length/height ratio. The camera body itself undergoes no changes and can still be used normally. At this point in time, I meet the Dane Lars R. Larsen who had already been exploring panoptical photography ( 1970). Lars R Larsen: I had built my first almost panoptical camera (350�) in 1970 with the intention to make panoramas of buildings and interiors. The prototype was built from an alarm clock casing with an internal diameter of 90 mm (2 x the focal length of the lens 45 mm) which gave me negatives of the very unhandy length of abt 270 mm with a height of 24 mm. after a few successful takes, I abandoned the project, but luckily, I kept the camera. When twenty years later, I met Michel, his system appealed to me, but at the time, I had neither a camera with interchangeable back, nor did I have a 17 mm lens. I wanted to use a 21 mm which I have, and I came upon the idea to let the camera turn around a fixed rubber disc the diameter of which is twice the focal length of the lens. I built the system around a 6x6 Zeiss Ikon Nettar body, so that I could benefit from the #120 format with a film of 60 mm. Four points are worth mentioning here: 1: a lens for a 24x36 SLR, the focal length of which is shorter than the depth of the camera body is constructed as a retrofocus lens. - the distance between the lens and film is longer than the focal length - which in our case gives us room enough for the abovementionned rubber disc. 2: that the picture circle covered by 24x36 lenses is at least equal to the diagonal of that format, i.e.43 mm. Often it is more and may thus attain twice the height of the 24 mm of a 35 mm film. 3: that the use of a 17 mm lens gives negatives of 106 mm ( 2 x 17 x pi) when covering 360�. With a negative height of 48 mm the vertical angle covered exceeds 100�. 4: that this length of negative makes it possible to use enlargers for the 9 x 12 cm or 4 x 5". In the spring of 1991, I built a prototype which I first called "Rundhorisontkamera" and later renamed "Larscan" (1991) which after a few improvements gave results that were so convincing that Michel decided to do at least as well. Using the same system, he very quickly built a very pretty camera with a 17 mm lens. Michel Dusariez: Since 1979, I had been doing aerial photography by kite, so I came upon the idea to make an aerial photography by kite (1992 ) covering 360�. The French seaside town of LE TOUQUET was chosen for this "World's first" on the 25th April 1992. As the risk of a crash can never be totally excluded, and as the camera used could not easily have been replaced, nerves were strained during the experiment, but fortunately nothing untoward happened. As the camera for the 120 format takes up quite a lot of space, I got the idea of creating a smaller, pocket sized model. A further Rollei 35 meets the hacksaw and the vice and with a 12.5 mm lens (taken from a Kodak Disc) it gives negatives of 76 x 18 mm, an acceptable length/height ratio. (1994). This prototype comes with an accessory which makes it possible to change the rotation ratio (to compensate for the change in refraction index under water) and a submarine body which permits underwater takes of 360� at any depth. (1994). Lars R. Larsen: It was after having seen Michel's "pocket" prototype that I decided to make something neater in a Praktica point and shoot body using the motorised film advance system of the camera itself. This lightweight camera can easily be carried by kite and with radio remote control, it gives excellent aerial photographs. Michel Dusariez: I simply had to make a further conversion. This time of an Olympus M�. (1994) using the original motor drive of the camera. The outside dimensions corresponding to those of the original camera making it truly pocketable. The construction of a 360� camera which simultaneously takes the same scene from two different points (stereoscopic views) took place, first for the 35 mm format ( 1993) and finally format 120 (1994). The stereoscopic vision is reestablished with the View Magic viewer from Dimension Press of USA using the over/under system. Michel DUSARIEZ Laureate of the Royal Academy of Belgium - Sciences class Prize DE BOELPAEPE - 34th biennal period : January 1st, 1994 - December 31st, 1995. For a new process combination to produce panoramic photographic images cover 360� horizontaly and 110� verticaly, on the same film, in one and single take, with a special prototype camera, allowed to restitue the complete stereoscopic relief on 360� with the help of a special viewer. About the exhibition of LARSCAN CAMERAS with pictures made with, from Lars and me, at the MUSEE DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE in Charleroi -Belgium - Exibition from February 14 to April 20, 1997. Michel DUSARIEZ - Brussel - Belgium March 1997. The latest camera of the series, a camera using a Polaroid 4" x 5" film holder saw the light of the day towards the end of 1996. It makes it possible to take instantaneous 360� views with a re-useable negative. Michel Dusariez +++++++++++++++ Find hereunder information about our books . 360� PANOPTIC PHOTOGRAPHY EXPERIMENTS Michel DUSARIEZ, Ludovic PIERROUX & Lars R. LARSEN. ISBN 2-9600048-1-7 New technical approaches to panoptic photography and the three inventors have been sporting enough to present their findings to the public. Not only do they fairly divide the merits, but they also reveal their invention totally unselfishly, not covering up any of the details. They even add the instructions which enable skilfull amateurs to construct their own panoptic materials, using elements which are simple and inexpensive. The last English version, revised and extended on 166 pages is now again available. It examines in details different 360� panoptic system which are easy to built, with diagrams and advice. Additional article,about stereo 3D panoptic photography on 360�, Polaroid 4x5 Panoptic 360� and panoptic 360� underwater experiments, and with report on the First EUROMEETING held in Brussels in 1996. ISBN 2-9600048-1-7. Price : 900 BF (about U.S.$ 25.00 at Dec 97 exchange rate), package and airmail postage include everywhere. Only credit cards VISA, MASTERCARD accepted. Sorry bank cheque can not be accepted. How to pay : Only credits cards VISA or MASTERCARD, send by fax or postal your order, with number and expiration date to - Michel DUSARIEZ, 14 avenue Capitaine PIRET - B-1150 BRUSSELS - BELGIUM fax 32 2 512 68 29. Sorry, bank cheques can not be accepted. To purchase email, fax, or mail the following information: Name: ___________________________________________ Address: _________________________________________ City: ____________________________________________ State/province: ___________________________________ Postal Code: _______________________________________ Country: __________________________________________ Visa or Mastercard Account Number: __________________________________________________ Date of expiration: ______/ _____ (Sorry, bank cheques can not be accepted) Send to: Michel DUSARIEZ 14 avenue Capitaine PIRET - B-1150 BRUSSELS BELGIUM Fax 32 2 512 68 29. ***************** Michel DUSARIEZ UNLIMITED FIELDS RESEARCH PANOPTIC IMAGING KITE AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY WORDWIDE ASSOCIATION - FOUNDATION 14, Avenue Capitaine PIRET B-1150 BRUXELLES - BELGIUM Fax 32 2 512 68 29
From photo-3d mailing list: Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 From: [email protected] Subject: Kodak Stereo Mounting Service Discontinued: Pardon me if this subject has been discussed at length already, but it seems like news to me. I sent in two rolls of film to Kodak via the prepaid mailers. As usual, I wrote "Do Not Mount" on both mailers. Five weeks go by and I still haven't seen the film so I call them up. They tell me they lost both rolls. They called back about three days later and tell me the found one roll but not the other. Then, today, I got both rolls in the mail. A note titled "An important message about your Stereo slide order" accompanied the film. It says the mounting service was discontinued effective February 1, 2002. OK, but I didn't want my film mounted. :-) The note lists two places that will mount stereo: Rocky Mountain Film Lab in Aurora, Colorado Pinkey's Photo Service in Little Rock, Arkansas Marc New Mexico, USA Rocky Mountain Film Lab in Aurora, Colorado
From: [email protected] (Richard Knoppow) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format,rec.photo.equipment.large-format,rec.photo.misc,rec.photo.technique.misc Subject: Re: Stereo Parallex Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 [email protected] (Xosni) wrote: >I was reading in the book "Applied Photographic Optics" when I came >across the term "Stereo Parallex". I didn't understand exactly what it >means, but all I know is that it effects a subjective illusion of >three dimentiality. It's most pronounced with LF with long focal >length (that's what I understood). >Can anybody explain what it means exactly, and how can it be >achieved-if possible- with MF? > >regards >Xosni >email preferred >[email protected] First parallax means the difference in view from two slightly separated positions. For insance, the finer of a twin-lens camera has a slightly different view than the taking lens. We have stereoscopic vision because our two eyes see from slightly different angles. The brain processes these two images to give the illusion of depth to the objects. In fact, our eyes function like a rangefinder, measuring distance. Stereo parallax is a measure of this separation. For average eyes its about 70mm. A stereo camera is one which photographs two separate images from about the same separation as the eyes have. When viewed in a way that duplicates the normal viewing angle and image size of the eye the images appear to be in three dimentions. If the separation is changed the three dimentional quality will become distorted. If too close, some of the effect will be lost and the image will look flat. If too wide, the stereo effect will be exagerated. This last effect can be used to advantage to give depth to distant views by increasing the separation of the two view points. In fact, this is exactly what is done in binoculars where the separation of the objective lenses is greater than the eyes. Some military binoculars have been built with extremely separated objectives to provide depth perception at great distances. The same principle is used in obtaining aerial stereo views but here the two images are taken with one camera but after the aircraft has traveled a certain distance. If the constants of the photographic system and the distance between images is known the images can be used to measure the height of objects quite accurately. For the aircraft photos this distance becomes the stereo parallax. When telephoto lenses are used for stereo photography the distance between them must be increased to keep the resulting picture from looking flat. The distance for "normal" stereo should be the normal eye distance magnified by the magnification of the image. I know there are some web sites dedicated to stereo photography but don't seem to have any marked. I suspect a Google search would find them. --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA. [email protected]
From: [email protected] (Brian Reynolds) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format,rec.photo.equipment.large-format,rec.photo.misc,rec.photo.technique.misc Subject: Re: Stereo Parallex Date: 19 May 2002 Richard Knoppow [email protected] wrote: [snipped - a good description of basic stereoscopic principals] > I know there are some web sites dedicated to stereo photography but >don't seem to have any marked. I suspect a Google search would find >them. Stereoscopic photography ("stereo photography") is still practiced by many photographers in formats from View Master to Large Format. I have examples of MF and 4x5 stereo on my web page. You can get started in stereo photography with a single camera. The "cha-cha" method works by putting your weight on your right foot when taking a picture, and then shifting your weight to your left foot and taking a second picture. Just make sure that the exposure and focus setting don't change between shots. There are a variety of ways of viewing these pictures described in the web sites below. The National Stereoscopic Association URL:http://www.stereoview.org/ publishes a magazine (Stereo World), runs the Oliver Wendell Holmes Stereoscopic Research Library and holds an annual convention. This year it's in Riverside, CA URL:http://www.3dgear.com/NSA. The International Stereoscopic Union URL:http://www.stereoscopy.com/isu/ holds a biennial congress and publishes the journal Stereoscopy. Next year's congress will be in France. The PSA also has a stereo division. The "3D Encyclopedia" at Rocky Mountain Memories URL:http://www.rmm3d.com/ has several articles describing stereo photography, how to do it and how to view it. They also sell supplies for 35mm and MF stereo photography. The Victorian 3D Society in Melbourne Australia URL:http://home.mira.net/~kiewavly/v3d.html has several more advanced articles on their web page. Reel 3D URL:http://stereoscopy.com/reel3d/ and Berezin Stereo Photo Products URL:http://www.berezin.com/3d/ also sell books and supplies for (mostly 35mm) stereo photography. There is also the photo-3d mailing list hosted by yahoogroups.com. You can subscribe by sending a message to "[email protected]". Depending on where you are there may be a stereo club near by. Posting to photo-3d, or registering with 3D Photo FriendFinder at Rocky Mountain Memories should turn something up. IMAX 3D is basically MF stereo with motion. (Yes, I know movie folks consider 70mm to be large format, but the frame size is about the same as 6x6 MF stereo.) -- Brian Reynolds [email protected] http://www.panix.com/~reynolds
from koni omega mailing list: Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 From: Eric Goldstein [email protected] Subject: [KOML] S T E R E O (was Re: The wait was excruciating) "Nancy Brown" wrote: > Eric, > What kind of viewing apparatus do you use? I`m already thinking of ways to > mount 2 Rapids side-by-side on a common rail.Using 2 cameras with 58mm > lenses, angled outward at the proper angle might allow you to create a "poor > man`s Roundshot" of sorts....sounds like fun, huh?. > Robert The best viewing option at this point is the SaturnScope found at the Rocky Mountain Memories web site I previously sent. They also have slide mounts for 66 and 645... Your panorama idea does sound like fun but not a concept to pursue for stereo. Unless you are shooting distant scenes (100+ feet) you want to try to preserve 3 inch image displacement between shots and these cameras are too big to get the lenses that close... The use of the 58 for stereo is a good idea in that stereo is a hyper-focus medium (whereas traditional flat photography is mostly a selective focus medium) and DOF throughout the scene is usually desirable at least to get started... MF turns out to be the best practical format to shoot stereo in that the chromes can be mounted side my side and you can still build an uncomplicated viewer (45 requires some sort of optical system beyond magnification). The brain is extremely sensitive to resolution (and grain) when viewing stereo pairs and so MF chromes allow for higher system res/lower viewing magnification than 35 mm... That being said, the least expensive way to get started is with your 35 MM camera, some cheap cardboard slide mounts, and a cheap steal-the-light viewer... Total investment about 20 bucks... Bogan makes a nice slide bar which you can find for about $40-$50; also Jasper Engineering products are a good choice (www.stereoscopy.com/jasper). Rollei (and others) also made proprietary slide bars for their cameras which can be picked up used... Feel free to ask anything else you might need to get started...
From: "Igor Kurchavov" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace Subject: Book: "How to make a high quality lenticular 3D photo at home for under $3.5" Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 Hello! Do you know about the new tecnology of making 3D high quality inexpensive lenticular photo? If not, please, see http://www.3dpictures.biz/technology.htm Best Regards, Igor Kurchavov www.3dpictures.biz
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