Jim
[email protected]
From: "John Hermanson" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Camera repair as a profession
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999
I have been doing this for 22 years and spent part of that time working for
a manufacturer. As far as I know, the manufacturers are looking for ways to
make their in-house departments smaller, AND you need an in-depth
electronics background just to get through the door to fill out an
employment application.
John
--
----------------------------------------------------------------
Camtech / Olympus Service since 1977
21 South La., Huntington NY 11743-4714
516-424-2121
http://www.zuiko.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
LMatusz167
> Well,
> I have been in this profession for 20 years and there is more to it than you
> think. Most of the newer cameras,almost all are adjusted by computer. You need
> to know more electronics than mechanics.You most likely replace in cameras
> assemblies not go and fix a problem(parts jockey) I have probably trained about
> 40 people over this time and only a few ever made it. I was chief tech for a
> Canon,Olympus,Konica sub contractor.Yes most if not all major camera companies
> do not fix their product,they send it to private shops,its cheaper they give
> you the parts for free but don't have to have anyone on salary.No health
> insurance or anything. As far as what you make...well. working for a
> manufactuer you will get a straight salary,usually but you have a daily quota.
> most private shops work 2 ways.they either will give you a straight salary (very
> few) most will pay you lets say about $100-$400 a week and and maybe $5.00 to
> $20 per camera over a certain amount daily.But if you get a redo camera you do
> it for free.Your not gonna get rich doing this. I was paid a straight salary
> from the sub,( a good amount of $$)but they went belly up.I then worked for a
> place that paid $10 an hour and any other camera you did over 8 a day you got
> $10 extra.. This didn't last for long..Most repair places bring in Koreans and
> hold their green cards and if they don't produce enough they go back.
> This has become a whore indusrty,I would recomend you not get involved with it.
> Do it as a hobby but not as your primary source of income. Most places will not
> hire anyone with out expierence.The best place is to work for a manufacturer,not
> a private shop.But its hard to get into one,but if you do they will teach you
> the right way.I started out working at Yashica and was taught the right way to
> do this.
>
> Sorry its not what you think it is........
From: [email protected] (Banjopikr1)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Camera repair as a profession
Date: 20 May 1999
>electronics background
John:
Electronics and digital electronics has been my source of income for over 40
years. I took a non working Minolta P&S camera apart to see how it works.The
days of small screwdrivers and good eye sight for repairing cameras is
over. I
had to have a scope and a digital voltmeter to to find the problem with this
camera.This camera had a mechanical shutter and a real multi blade
diaphragm.
In todays Digital cameras, many of the shutters are an electronic
switch.The F
stops are determined with electronics. The Minolta P&s has 2 CPUs.
SO,it appears to repair cameras, you almost need an Electrical,
Electronic, and
Computer Engineering degrees.
my thoughts
Ken
From: [email protected] (LMatusz167)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Camera repair as a profession
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Well,
I have been in this profession for 20 years and there is more to it than
you think. Most of the newer cameras,almost all are adjusted by
computer.You need to know more electronics than mechanics.You most likely
replace in cameras assemblies not go and fix a problem(parts jockey) I
have probably trained about 40 people over this time and only a few ever
made it. I was chief tech for a Canon,Olympus,Konica sub contractor.Yes
most if not all major camera companies do not fix their product,they send
it to private shops,its cheaper they give you the parts for free but don't
have to have anyone on salary.No health insurance or anything. As far as
what you make...well. working for a manufactuer you will get a straight
salary,usually but you have a daily quota. most private shops work 2
ways.they either will give you a straight salary(very few) most will pay
you lets say about $100-$400 a week and and maybe $5.00 to $20 per camera
over a certain amount daily.But if you get a redo camera you do it for
free.Your not gonna get rich doing this. I was paid a straight salary from
the sub,( a good amount of $$)but they went belly up.I then worked for a
place that paid $10 an hour and any other camera you did over 8 a day you
got $10 extra.. This didn't last for long..Most repair places bring in
Koreans and hold their green cards and if they don't produce enough they
go back.
This has become a whore indusrty,I would recomend you not get involved
with it. Do it as a hobby but not as your primary source of income. Most
places will not hire anyone with out expierence.The best place is to work
for a manufactuer,not a private shop.But its hard to get into one,but if
you do they will teach you the right way.I started out working at Yashica
and was taught the right way to do this.
Sorry its not what you think it is........
[Ed. note: caveat repairer!]
Subject: Re: Help with older Minolta
From: "Jim Williams" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: Wed, 26 May 1999
>My daughter's older metal body Minolta SLR is stuck. Sorry I do not have
>the model number at this time.
>
>You cannot advance the film advance lever and you cannot press on the
>shutter button.
>
>There is no film in the camera, no light meter battery (was not in there
>because the light meter was not working).
>
>Any suggestions on how to get it working again?
Sure, here's one suggestion: Take it to a repair shop!
Seriously, it sounds as if your daughter's camera is jammed. Any number of
things can cause this; it's not like there's a secret compartment you can
open and press a button marked "Unjam" and fix it.
Okay, if you were willing to spend money having it repaired before trying
to fix it yourself, you probably wouldn't have posted to a newsgroup,
right? So, let's try to think it through. Any mechanical SLR goes through a
definite sequence of mechanical events when you fire it; when it jams, it
means that somewhere in that sequence it wasn't able to complete a step, so
it's unable to go on to the next step. How to fix it depends on where it
was in the sequence when it got stuck. So, to have a chance of unjamming
it, you have to figure out where it was in the sequence. Here's a typical
firing sequence:
1) You advance the film. This action winds the shutter curtains to their
"cocked" position, and locks the "wind lock," which keeps you from
advancing the film again until you've taken a picture.
2) You press the shutter release button. This causes the mirror to swing up
and the autodiaphragm mechanism to close down the lens aperture.
3) When the mirror/diaphragm mechanism has done its thing, it unlatches the
first shutter curtain, opening the shutter.
4) The action of the first shutter curtain opening trips a timer, which
delays for a set period of time (determined by the shutter-speed setting)
and then unlatches the second shutter curtain. This allows the second
curtain to run across the film aperture and close the shutter.
5) The arrival of the second curtain at the "closed" position releases the
mirror/autodiaphragm mechanism, allowing the mirror to swing back down and
the aperture to open up.
6) Completion of the mirror/autodiaphragm sequence releases the wind lock,
allowing you to advance the film again.
Now, since you can't advance the film, you know your wind lock is locked.
And since you can't release the shutter, you know it isn't cocked. Since
the shutter gets cocked in step 1 and the wind lock gets unlocked in step
6, the camera could have jammed at any point during steps 2-5. Here are
some ideas for seeing where it might have stopped at each step:
Step 2: Is the mirror up or down? (Take off the lens and see.) If it's
down, try lifting it *GENTLY* and see if it will swing up and continue on
from there. If it's up, try *GENTLY* pulling it down a bit. If the camera
has jammed because the mirror hung up, this might be enough to unjam it.
Step 3 and 4: Is the shutter open or closed? If closed, is it still cocked
or uncocked? (It can be hard to tell this by looking without experience, so
don't be surprised if you can't tell.) Do the shutter curtains look
straight? If not -- if it looks as if a curtain has jumped its track --
don't mess with it; take the camera to a repair shop. If the shutter looks
OK but hasn't made it all the way across the film gate, try this ONLY IF
THE CAMERA HAS A CLOTH SHUTTER (do NOT try it on vertical metal-blade
shutters): Find the metal reinforcing band on the edge of the shutter
curtain and nudge it **very gently** toward the film-advance-lever side of
the camera. If the shutter has gotten stuck (possibly because a bit of film
fell into its tracks) this sometimes will free it enough to let it finish
its cycle.
Step 5: If the mirror is partly flipped up, try pushing it **gently** back
down until it latches. This might free it. See step 2.
Step 6: If the camera made it all the way through its firing cycle but the
wind lock is still engaged, the advance gears may be slightly out of
adjustment. One thing to try: press in and hold the rewind button, and see
if you can work the film advance lever. If you can, you may be able to
release the wind lock and recock the shutter. If it works, try firing the
shutter and winding the camera several more times.
Even if one of these tricks works... if the camera jammed once, it may jam
again in the near future, so take it in to a repair shop as soon as you
can. It may need adjustment or just cleaning and lubrication.
From: [email protected] (Ejkowalski)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Do-it-yourself parts?
Date: 28 May 1999
>Does anyone know of a source of photo "hardware" for DYI projects?
>I'd like to build a flash bracket and some other odds and ends, and
>need a source for flash shoes, tripod screws, knobs, sockets,
>thingamajigs, doohickeys, whatchamacallits, and so on.
>
>--
>Bob Scott
I like to build things and repair "classics" and find our monthly Photo Swap
Meets in St. Louis a good source of parts... small parts, lens parts, "parts"
bodies, etc. Generally there are a dozen or so vendors set up, some of them
with boxes on the floor of dollar"bargains." Four times a year we have
the big
Camera Shows with maybe 50-100 vendors and the chance to find whatever odd
piece I may be looking for.
Ask around, there are probably similar events going on regularly in a
city near you.
EJKowalski
[Ed. note: for your vicarious thrills and chills ;-) caveat repairer!]
From the Nikon MF Digest:
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999
From: [email protected]
Subject: Taking F2 apart
Hello Nikon F2 Fans,
I recently bought a 'dead' F2 and used it to learn how to repair F2s. Here's
what I learnt so far :
Removing dust particles between the eye piece lens elements :
1) Gently peel off the eye piece leatherlette. It0s quite tough, so son't
worry about breaking it (except at the narrow parts).
2) Unscrew the two screws holding the black plastic eye piece
3) Remove the plastic eye piece housing
4) Remove the lens element
5) Clean the lens element using a soft cloth/tissue
6) Use a flow brush/mini vacumn pump to remove dust particles in the lens
housing
7) Insert the lens element
8) Screw in the plastic eye piece housing
9) Glue the leatherlette back, using a non solvent glue (I used table tennis
rubber glue)
Removing screws - those with two tiny holes on their heads :
1) Get a paper clip and cut it in half
2) Make 'U' shapes of different sizes
3) Insert the two ends of the 'U' into the two tiny holes of the screw
4) Use a pair of pliers to clamp the 'U' and turn it anti-clockwise until
the screw is loose
5) Remove the screw using fingers
Removing the large flat head screw on the winder :
1) Get a pluming rubber gasket disc
2) Put it on the flat head screw
3) Press your thumb hard against the rubber and turn anti clockwise - the
screw can be unscrewed this way on most of my F2's. Some I cannot move at
all. I've tried WD40 lubricant but that didn't help. I suspect certain
screws are glued in.
I am unable to remove the top plates. Can anyone help me ? I have the F2
repair manual, but it is not very clear.
Hope all this helps, and I look forward to any suggestions on how to
repair/replace the shutter.
Happy repairing,
Sover
[Ed. note - more caveat repairer! ;-)]
From Nikon MF Digest:
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999
From: Mark Walberg [email protected]
Subject: Re: Taking F2 apart
Sover, I've got a few things to add to your attempts to take apart your
F2. First, the rubber gasket or stopper gets most of the large flat head
screws out of the winder, but I also have found an occasional stubborn one
that is glued in. Heating a bit with a soldering iron there might help.
Or, just get a bigger stopper with more grip and leverage. As a last
resort, you can drill two small holes in the cap and then use your
paperclips to get it off. (The paperclips are a good idea, but a spanner
with sharp points would probably be a bit safer.)
Getting the wind side (right side from the back of camera) top plate off
isn't very hard. I don't have one here now, but here is approximately what
to do:
1) Take the prism off.
2) Take the large flat top screw off the wind lever.
3) Unscrew the four small screws holding the wind lever on its post, then
take the wind lever off.
4) Use a spanner wrench to unscrew the lockring inside the shutter release
collar, and take the collar parts out.
5) Use a very small flat screw driver to loosen the three screws holding
the speed dial on its post, then take the dial off. (I think it goes back
on only one way.)
6) There is another ring that comes off with a spanner. This ring is
located either under the speed dial or under the wind lever (maybe both?),
I can't remember which right now. Anyway, wherever it is, take it off.
7) Unscrew the small screw at the far left side of the back of the top
plate, just behind the screen.
8) I can't remember whether or not there is another screw to take out just
to the left of the screw in step seven, in the dip where the finder
eyepiece goes. I think there is a screw there under the foam that must
come out.
9) Now, if I haven't forgotten anything, the plate should lift off.
Getting the left (from back of camera) top plate off is harder. This seems
to require taking the black flat plate out of the flash attachment under
the rewind lever. That plate apparently is just glued on. I've never been
able to get one off. If anyone knows how to get that plate off, maybe they
could tell the rest of us. Anyway, there really is not much reason to take
that side of the top plate off. There is not much under there except for
the flash wiring. You do not need to take that side off to get the front
off or to get the shutter box out. So, I wouldn't worry about how to get
it off unless you really need to.
To get to the shutter, you are going to have to take the front off the
camera, and probably the mirror box out. It depends on jut what you need
to do to the shutter. Getting the front off first requires peeling back
the leather from the middle of the front (after removing timer, DOF knobs
of course). Then, there are some screws to take out holding the fron
plates onto the body. It has been a while since I've done this, but I
think you have to remove four screws from the rectangular part around the
lens mount, too. I forget just now whether they are removed just to get
the mirror box out, or whether they must come out just to get the front
plates off. Anyway, to get to those four screws, you first need to remove
the decorator cover bytaking out the four small screws around the outside
of this cover. Then, the bigger screws are in recessed holes in the
underlying rectangular part surrounding the lens mount. There is a bit
more to getting the mirror box out, but I'd have to go look at one to
remember what to do.
-Mark Walberg
From: [email protected] (Maycop)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Source for tiny screws in old cameras
Date: 9 Jun 1999
Look at a Walthers HO catalog under Northwest Shortline. They stock metric
sizes & are'nt too exp. You can find catalog in well stocked hobby shop. They
also list 0-90. o-80 etc.
Don
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999
From: James Upton [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [KOML] Spanner Wrenches
While MIcro-Tools #1054P spanner wrench may do the job,
I personally recommend spending the extra bucks for the
T-132/136 series wrench. The advantage-you can replace
tips for the job at hand,plus grind tips to fit a
special purpose. My handle is some 45 years old now,
and is still a major player in my tool box.
Just my 2�
From KoniOmega Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999
From: stafford [email protected]
Subject: [KOML] Spanner Wrench (correction)
Gave the wrong link! That's the expensive set. No need.
Here, this is what I use:
http://www.micro-tools.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=Micro-Tools&Pr
oduct_Code=1054&Category_Code=SPN
From: "Nicholas O. Lindan" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: cleaning fungus off lens
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999
[How to remove retaining rings w/o the right tool]
Another tool one can make:
Take a pair of cheap metal vernier calipers, the stamped out of metal
type, and grind or file the inside measuring thingies to two nice
square screwdriver type blades to fit the notches in the ring. The
calipers are, of course, adjustable for different size rings.
Should you gouge your lens when the calipers slip this URL will
disavow any knowledge of your activity. This message will self
destruct in thirt....poof..
--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio [email protected]
From: [email protected] (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: cleaning fungus off lens
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999
....
The best tool for removing retaining rings is to use a rubber "O"
ring or other soft rubber washer of the right diameter glued to the
end of a tube of the right size. One can use any sort of metal tubing
of the right diameter. The lens cell must usually be clamped using
the sort of wrench which holds in a cloth wrap. Sometimes the paint
around the threads must be cleaned off with a little solvent to free
up the ring.
This is a better way to remove even rings with slots or holes for
spanners since there is much less chance of damaging either the ring
or the glass.
One occasionally sees advise to drill holes in a retaining ring for
a spanner. This should never need to be done. Its usually advised by
people who don't know about using a friction tool.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
[email protected]
From Leica Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Leica] Tomosoy Repair Book
I understand Tomosoy (sp???) has published a book recently on repairing
Leica cameras. I wouold appreciate hearing from anybody that has checked
this book over as to its value and quality of information. Which models
does it cover? I have read some good tips in his earlier Classic camera
repair book, and wonder if this new one is worthwhile.
Noel.
I have Tomosy's "Leica Camera Repair Handbook". It covers models IA
through IIG, M3, MDa, M5, CL, Leicflex, R3, and R4. I think that it has
limited usefulness. Because it covers so many models, it doesn't have
enough depth on any one to be truly helpful. It does have some good tips
on disassembling the cameras, removing top plates etc. It does not cover
routine adjustments and maintenance except to basically say that it can be
done. It would be a book to have in addition to more complete texts, but
does not stand alone.
Richard Wasserman
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999
From: Jose Menendez [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT: Contax III rangefinder
You can consult the Kiew rangefinder adjustment
(identical to the prewar Contax) in the book from
Isaac Maizemberg: "All you need to know about Design
and Repair of Russian Cameras".
It has a section from page 276 to 281 which explains
in detail the procedures.
If you are not able to get the book, I can try to scan
the pages and send to your e-mail address or send a
photocopy by ordinary mail.
Contact me if can help.
Jose
--- Guido Cova [email protected] wrote:
> I am repairing a Contax III (yes, the old, delicious
> mechanical one), and I
> am having some trouble calibrating the rangefinder.
> I have mr. Tooke's "Contax repair manual": good,
> very helpful with the
> shutter, but of little help with the rangefinder.
> Then, without
> instructions, it is only a neverending
> trial-and-error.
>
> So, does any RUGer know:
> - if (and possibly where) may I find
> information/advice on this? my dream is
> a copy of the maintenance manual for the Contax (or
> for the Kiev range of
> cameras, very very similar to Contaxes)
> . is there a Zeiss User Group?
>
> Thanks in advance. Ciao.
> Guido Cova
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999
From: edromney [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Semi-serious Zenit users
Zenits and Zorkis are pretty serious cameras overseas where the people are
not prosperous. Third World photographers still use screw mount cameras
and even preset lenses to run a whole photo studio. These cameras are
repair enthusiast's delights since their quality depends on the mood of
the Russians making them that particular day. You can really tune them up.
Lenses are usually excellent, and they are practical, reliable and simple
to use. You might like Ivan Maisenberg's book: ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT
THE DESIGN AND REPAIR OF RUSSIAN CAMERAS available from us and a few other
book dealers. Praktica is a similar camera that is fun too. Lubitel is fun
in medium format, very low priced yet fairly sharp stopped down.
Yours faithfully,
Ed Romney
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: Dante Stella [email protected]
Subject: Re: Are Romney's publications any good?
They're pretty good. The most bang for the buck is the "trade secrets"
booklet. I don't remember if they are detailed on electronics, but they
have a lot of useful info on the mechanical aspects, especially of leaf
shutters, rangefinders etc.
------------
Dante Stella
.....
Date: Sat, 29 May 1999
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: Dante Stella [email protected]
Subject: Re: Are Romney's publications any good?
The only problem with the Tomosy books is that they are oversimplified and
vague. This makes it hard to figure out what's going on. I had a lot of
trouble with Repairing Classic Cameras, but I eventually figured out what
was going on. He needs to concentrate on fewer cameras or be more generic
(e.g. show six basic types of RF and not waste space with wastes of time
like Nikkorexes and Mamiya Sensorexes).
------------
Dante Stella
On 29 May 1999, Maycop wrote:
> Also take a look at Camera Maint. & REpair by Thomas Tomosy. There are 2
> volumes & they are very well written w/good illustrations. About $30 each @
> Barnes & Noble or Walden. They will order for you. The F3 is covered in some
> detail in bk 2,the Ftn in bk 1.
[Ed. note: Mr. Werner makes available a number of hasselblad related photo
illustrated repair books..]
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: To those that have purchased the Hasselblad magazine Repair
Manual
To any of those people that have purchased one of the above mentioned
booklets and are wanting to convert your magazine from A12 to A24.
The counter number dial is REALLY glued on and a bit difficult to get
off. Even so, I was at one point doing this until all of a sudden, the
dials were on back order from Hasselblad. I did have one more dial (it
was a piss poor example and should have never been shipped from
Hasselblad).
I took this dial and scanned it. Then went into Corel PhotoPaint and
magnified it 1000 times. I worked on each pixel, pixel by pixel, to get
the dail looking like it should look with no bleeding. Their silk screen
process leaves something to be desired.
Anyhow, I find it much easier to just attach these paper dials right
over the existing dial after wipping off the existing dial with laquer
thinner such that there is no grease or oil on it. It is much faster,
looks just as good, and saves you a few bucks. I have this photo in a
Microsoft Word document. Anyone that would like to have a copy of this
dial may write to me privately and request it. I will immediately send
it to you. I have the attributes of the file set to read only, so
nothing will change. When attaching the dial, use rubber cement as this
seems to be the only thing that will hold up under the tremoundous shock
this dial takes when resetting.
One word of caution. Be sure to set your printer to black ink only and
then go into the advanced properties and put a check mark on MicroWeave
and you will get the best print possible. I have found that I get the
best prints on plain old white printer paper. Have tried the glossy
photo paper, but results are nowhere close to being as good. This you
may have to experiment with, as we all have different printers.
Thanks,
--
_______________________________
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
[email protected]
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000
From: [email protected] (Colyn)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: camera repair books
>Anyone know of any good camera repair guides? (For Nikon).
>
>TIA,
>
>marc
National Camera Repair was/is the best..
Check my site below on the repair page for the address..
Colyn
Leica Cameras/Lens Information
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Veranda/9472
From Rangefinder Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000
From: Stephen Gandy [email protected]
Subject: Do it Urself Camera Repairs
I personally was surprised to find DIYCR such a hot topic on RF list,
someone always seems to be asking how to repair something.
Simple repairs can indeed be made by the first timer, but a lot depends
upon the camera design. "Simple" on one camera can be a real chore on
another.
http://www.micro-tools.com/ can indeed provide pro tools and materials.
I bought some of Ed Romney's booklets years ago, on Contax and Leica.
they were OK for an introduction, but didn't supply me with all the info
that I wanted or needed.
If DIYCR interests you, or its your hobby, great, Njoy. However every
year I see several Leicas in boxes and plastic bags, after their owners
decided to take them apart to "fix" them. Putting them back together
generally runs 2-3 times what an overhaul would have run, depending upon
how badly the camera was damaged.
I suggest if you don't have the experience and proper tools, never take a
camera apart unless you are willing to sacrifice it to your education,
because that is what you may end up doing. Of course, some people have a
better mechanical / repair backgrounds than others. I am just saying it
is not always easy, so don't screw up a camera that is important to you
trying to learn what you are doing.
But if you are serious about learning camera repair, there is a GREAT
professional home study course in classic camera repair. from the 50's to
the late 80's, a home study course out of Colorado probably trained more
camera repair people than all the other US repair people combined. The
course was designed to be taken over several years, had dozens of lessons,
and they provided update information on new cameras. Unfortunately I
think they went out of business about 1990 due to falling enrollments.
Sometimes the entire course is for sale on the used market. An excellent
course if you can find it, off hand I don't remember the home study
school's name. Don't expect it to be easy, especially without an
instructor to answer your questions, but it was the best.
Stephen
From Rangefinder Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000
From: Stephen Gandy [email protected]
Subject: Re: [RF List] Do it Urself Camera Repairs
It was National Camera Repair.
the updates were called Camera Craftsman, a new version is available by
Fargo
http://micro-tools.com/cc_info.htm
Stephen
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000
From: eromney [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: NOW IS BAD TIME TO BUY NEW CAMERAS
....
I doubt there will be any new manuals ever by me on such cameras as the
Rebel, EOS, F5, Pentax IQ zoom or digital cameras. Their interiors are
too closely packed. The factory manuals are gigantic, hundreds of
pages...I think the DIY repair days are ending soon. I can't fix my
Saturn car or the fuel injected Caddy, yet I have rebuilt engines myself
for earlier cars. The Saturn manual is four thick volumes! The years
1950-80 were the peak years of fine classic cameras you can restore.
When they are gone I will be retired or doing other things. I planned on
this so I am not too worried. Ed Romney
Date: 14 Dec 2000
From: "Beanpole" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Where to get repair manuals
Joseph S. Wisniewski [email protected] wrote
> Where can I obtain repair manuals for a Nikon FM2n, 8008 (F810) and
> Argus C3?
>
> We've heard a lot of accusations about who stole what from whom on this
> list, and I want to buy from someone with reasonably good karma.
>
> And please don't point me to Ed: since he considers me to be a "bimbo",
> he doesn't need my business.
>
> Ciao!
>
> Joe
Most camera manufacturers I've contacted in the past were not interested
in selling me their highly prized service info. New cameras and lenses
were a different story. I even had a hard time obtaining real service
manuals when I worked for a camera repair shop. The way I got around this
was to get to know the technicians at the warranty stations and slip them
an extra 10-spot if they would order them for me. This was 18 or so years
ago but If I needed another set of pubs I'll bet it would still work.
Don't be surprised if a manual costs between $50 and $100 bucks and takes
a month or so to get. That new camera would show up tomorrow.
Try calling some local repair shops for the C3 manual.
Beanpole
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 80 C T* 1s speed sticks
If you would like to email me privately, I can tell you how to take care
of this problem in about 5 minutes or, you can go to a repair shop and
probably spend well over a $100 plus.
This will all be covered in the new body and lens repair manual I am in
the midst of writting.
_______________________________
Dick Werner
Michael Waldron wrote:
> I use my 80 C T* a lot (it is a B50, but I do not have the exact date with
> me now). However, I just used the 1s, which I don't use frequently and the
> shutter blades stuck halfway in. When I changed the speed, they opened and
> the other speeds seem to work fine. I tried the 1s several more times with
> the same result. I assume that there must be a separate spring or
> something controlling the 1s speed. My question is this: since I don't
> use the 1s much, can I wait to repair it, or does this possibly indicate a
> larger problem like need of cleaning, lube that could cause additional
> problems for the other speeds?
>
> I know this is a bit vague, but I am on the road shooting would appreciate
> your feedback.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michael Waldron
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Mark Anderson)
Subject: Re: Any Zeiss folding camera (532/16) experts out there?
Vick Ko [email protected] wrote:
> Thanks Mark.
>
> Do you have the book? Is it very detailed? Is it detailed
> enough to buy the book?
>
> I see that MicroTools has this title at $27, but Chapters lists
> a title called "Restoring Classic & Collectable Cameras". Is
> it the same book?
I have both books. They're not the same. Classic & Collectible is for
older cameras, e.g. view cameras, etc.. Great Collecticble Cameras is
for more usable handheld cameras, 35 mm, 120 rollfilm, etc.. The
section specifically on the 532/16 is only 4 or 5 pages, but there is
quite a bit elsewhere in the book that may be of use. I'd recommend it
as a good book for working on classic cameras.
--
Mark Anderson
DBA Riparia www.teleport.com/~andermar/
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: "Q.G. de Bakker"
[email protected]
Date: Sat Apr 14 2001
[1] Re: kiev88 repair
Michael Schmid wrote:
> some years ago i bought a kiev88 set (with TTL prism) on a german flee
> market for something arround 100$(no kidding). I haven't used the camera
> for a while because of it's weight and the fact that the film transport
> is not very reliable(...)
> but lately i have seen some of this refurbished and modified kiev88s,
> now i'm wondering if there is a way to repair the transport mechanism by
> myself? do you know any good sources on the internet eg repair manuals?
Brenner Foto Versand (http://www.brenner-foto.de) sells a book called
"Kiev-88/88TTL Reparatur Handbuch" (DM 44.80).
I don't know the book myself, but perhaps you will find it can help.
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Well, I finally got myself in gear and finished the body manual.
I finally got myself into gear and finished the Hasselblad body repair
manual. IT IS READY TO GO. The manual covers all the bodies except for the
focal plane type, and the motorized bodies. The price on this manual is
$46.50 plus $3.50 for shipping via 2 day mail.
I do not take the body completely apart in this manual, as it is not
necessary to do so. 99 percent of the body problems can be cured with
what I show you in the manual and I do it in a step by step fashion.
I should also mention that the Hasselblad film magazine repair manual is
still available at the same old price of $60 plus $3.50 shipping via 2
day mail.
If one were to order both manuals at the same time, please only add one
shipping charge.
If you do decide to get one or both manuals, please email me your
complete mailing address, such that I can have you all packed and ready
to go. I like to get the manuals out the same day a check or money
arrives. I also email you that the check has arrived and the package is
on the way.
Thanks for giving me your kind attention,
--
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
[email protected]
Postscript:
Here is a birds eye view of the manual.............
http://home.att.net/~blackbird711/bodymanual1.jpg
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: Fwd: Romney Book Order vs Bob Shell
> From: [email protected]
> Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001
> Subject: [russiancamera] Fwd: Romney Book Order vs Bob Shell
>
> Being a person who is very interested in hobby camera repair and who has also
> experienced first hand some of the frustration of bad repair info...
>
> Have any advice for those of us who would like accurate, technical
> information and who are not novice technicians in the technical sense, just
> with camera's themselves?
>
> Any true advice would be apprciated.
The best source of information on camera repair in general is the old
National Camera course. I've seen complete sets for sale a few times.
This was the course I took back in the 60s when I decided to learn camera
repair.
Also, if you can find them, old issues of Camera Craftsman are full of
useful information. This was the camera repairman's magazine.
Unfortunately it ceased publication with the death of Sam Love in the
late 70s.
For Japanese and German cameras you can usually get the factory shop
manuals. I used to buy them on microfiche.
You can also do what my pal Marty Forscher did when he decided to learn
camera repair. He took a Rollei TLR and completely disassembled it. He
put all of the pieces in a cardboard box and shook it up. Then he
reassembled the camera until it was perfect.
Unfortunately, most of the newer electronic cameras require special
equipment and custom computer interface and software for proper service.
This, along with eyesight problems, is why I dropped out of camera repair
about eleven years ago. I still work on cameras for fun, but that's it
these days.
Bob
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rollei repairman in California?
> From: Doug Brightwell [email protected]
> Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001
> Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rollei repairman in California?
>
> Should 6008i's only go back to Marflex once they're out of warranty, or
> would Fleenor be a good post-warranty option? (Not that I have to worry
> about it for a few years.) Or do independent repair people only work on
> TLRs?
It takes special knowledge and equipment to work on the 6000 series
cameras. Rollei will not sell repair manuals to these cameras. As a
result I know of no independent repair shops in the USA who will service
them.
Bob
From Classic 35mm Compact Camera Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001
From: deanwst [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Minolta Hi Matic E Wiring Diagram [Yahoo! Clubs: Classic 35mm
Compacts]
Sorry I can't help you, but you might want to try posting that question on
the Classic Camera repair forum at:
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/ [updated URL 1/2004]
Lot's of good advice there (and a couple of guys from this list), as well
as some camera manuals (and repair manuals, but not for your camera
unfortunately).
Dean
[Ed. note: note that the time for the special deal has expired, fyi
only]
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Hasselblad Film Magazine Repair Booklet
There have been so many inquiries about this booklet that I have written
about the Hasselblad magazine repair, that I have decided to make a
special offer on it. As I have mentioned to a few people, I have
intended to put up a special price to those in this group for some time
now, but just have not had the time. Well, with all the emails this
morning, I am taking the time. You can find the details on the booklet
at this web page
http://home.att.net/~blackbird711/hasselbladmagrepair.html
Forget what it says about the asking price. I have sold many of these
booklets at the full asking price, but I am making a special 45 day
offer for the entire booklet (which will include the changing of an A12
to a A24-I should also mention that the A12 to A24 conversion will also
apply to changing an A16 to a A32 film magazine at full factory specs).
The special offer is $60 for the entire works, plus $3.20 for 2 day
mail. I know this is not an advertising forum, but all I am trying to do
is help people save a buck on the film magazine repairs. The only reason
I wrote this book, is that I saw so many people being taken advantage of
by the repair shops (especially so called Hasselblad factory repair).
For any of those that want to order or intend to order, I would appreciate
it if they would send me their complete mailing address such that I can
have the package addressed and ready to go. This way it will go out the
same day check or money order is received. I try very hard to move things
out as fast as possible, and treat people like I like to be treated, so
the above will help in this effort. My email address is below.
Thanks much,
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
[email protected]
From Hasselblad Mailing List;
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: A follow up to my last message
I was talking about the magazine repair manual in my last message as you
know. I have a question. Are any of you people out there interested in a
booklet on the repair of the slow shutter speed on the Hasselblad
lenses? I can, and have thought about, doing a booklet on this item as
well. If there are enough of you out there that might want to do
something like this, I can do the booklet. The total job takes 15/20
minutes. It is my understanding that Hasselblad is now up to $225/$250
for this job. My god, a lot of brain surgeons don't make $600/hour after
expenses. The prices charged are ridiculous. I can save you some money
n a very easy repair if there are a substantial number of people out
there that would like to have this knowledge. It is all very simple and
I can lead you step by step, as I do with the film magazine booklet.
I would also like to know what a booklet like this would be worth to you
dollar wise. If it all makes sense, I will go ahead and do it.
Thanks,
--
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
[email protected]
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001
From: Ron Schwarz [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Re: Lanny and Vicky Cermak
>Sadly, fewer and fewer repair techs seem able to repair many of the
>tricky older cameras, and the electronic cameras are mostly replace modules
>approaches for many repairers, so camera repair may become more esoteric?
That was why I got out of repair in the mid-1980s. Fewer and fewer of the
former, and more and more of the latter. I could make money repairing
cameras, but the overhead of buying countless manuals (with very little
"model overlap" between them) and stocking scads of incredibly expensive
modules -- in order to fix cheaper and cheaper cameras -- well, the
handwriting was on the wall. No one breaks the law of diminishing
returns.
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001
From: J-2 [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Thomosey's book
Hi Kevin
I have the Leica repair book of Thomosy, and he wrote it with the
assumption that the reader has already gone through his first two books
before going to a specialty camera. From the index printed on his Leica
book, Book 1 lists a 'full version' for Pentax Spotmatic and the Canon
IIS. I'm not certain about the common ground the spotmatic has with the
SV, but I can assure you that the II series Canons are almost identical,
except the synched models which have extra synch circuitry.
IMO, Maizenberg's book can do better if you need a quickie tutorial on
taking Leica-type cameras apart, be they of Soviet or Japanese origin.
Jay
Date: 25 Jul 2001
From: [email protected] (Anton Elron)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace.35mm
Subject: Re: God, I Miss Ed Romney
In all seriousness, what Ed says about "camera stores will not admit
he exists" and the "big New York houses" conspiring against him-is not
altogether wrong.
I have called camera stores and asked for Romney books only to be
greeted with the dumb act, then on a pretext went in there with one,
made the sales guy or owner look at the picture (I am good at
pretexting) and then called back a while later and have the same guy
swear on his dead mother's grave he never even heard of any such
thing.
Certainly his books have flaws. They should be professionally edited
and and printed on archival paper. They aren't. OTOH if Ed hadn't
proved the market would the Tomosy books have come out? Don't think
so. Ed is viewed as a threat more than an eccentric or a pest by
segments of the photo industry.
I am sure Ed's books have inspired a lot of creative thinking.I
suspect Yasuhara got his start reading them. Walt Bender and his
inexpensive view camera kit may well have as well. The "rangefinder
revival" and interest in using rollfilm cameras no longer provided
with film support, making users roll their own, certainly has
Romneyite overtones.
From Camera Fixing Mailing List;
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001
From: Victor Helis [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [camera-fix] List of cameras in Maizenberg's book
For info:
in the third russian edition (440 pages, 1964) the repair of the following
chambers is described:
Moskva-2, Moskva-4, Moskva-5, Lubitel, Lubitel-2, Sputnic (stereocamera),
Estafeta (6x6 cm), Smena, Smena-2, Smena-3, Smena-4, Smena-5, Smena-6,
Smena-M, Smena-2M, Vesna, Kiev-Vega, , Zorkii, Zorkii-2, Zorkii-S,
Zorkii-2S, Zorkii-3, Zorkii-3M, Zorkii-3S, Zorkii-4, Zorkii-5, Zorkii-6,
Mir, Zarja, FED, FED-2, FED-3, Zenit, Zenit-S, Zenit-3, Zenit-3M, Kristal
( Cristal ), Start, Kiev-2, Kiev-2A, Kiev-3, Kiev-3A, Kiev-4, Kiev-4A,
Also the lens: Industar-23, Industar-24, T-22, Industar-10, Industar-22,
Industar-50, Industar-26M, Jupiter-8,
Helios-44,
Sincerely
Victor Helis, [email protected]
Togliatti, Russia
Photography, Repair and Consulting
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001
From: eromney [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace.35mm
Subject: problems in the camera repair book business
My real competition now is that people have their secretaries copy my
repair books on the office copier and they then sell them on Ebay.
Making them costs them nothing since ITT, or the government , or someone
pays for the copier and the toner and the labor. Nice business for them.
Corrupt Ebay refuses to stop this and the crooks keep coming back with
new screen names and new addresses. Many of these copies are 3rd and 4th
generation and of poor quality and I get blamed for them. And the Ebay
customer victims often pay more for them than a good copy would cost
from me. They know nothing of me, because the corrupt camera stores all
deny I exist.
One problem is that most of my books were made 15-25 yrs ago, many
typed on my electric typewriter and printed from paste-ups. They are
all analog. It simply would never pay for me to keyboard them all for MS
Word. Then Ebay would sell even more copies of them. This is a rather
mature field.
As per Tomosy, his books are being sold out cheaply by Hamilton and
other surplus book vendors. They are about finished. His book is vague
and the pictures are too small. We have gone to a much better paper and
have a digital copier now, but that is the best we can do.
New books on cameras from me???...very doubtful. I'll be writing on
other topics now. A point and shoot or a Canon Rebel is about impossible
to fix and I doubt any one would want to try. Who cares? . Most cameras
today are crummy. Making manuals for them is like printing a book on
the Ford Pinto or the Mustang II. Who wants one? Or like doing a book
on fixing digital clock radios and Walkmen. My recent Basic Training
does show how cleaning transducers, battery contacts and switches can
often fix a point and shoot camera... and autofocus is explained, but
that is as far as I am ever going to go. BTW...Nearly all failures on
the excellent Nikon FG are due to low batteries and bad contacts. Buy
them up for $25-$35 , clean them and have a splendid camera, better
than anything you can buy for under $800. I use mine a lot
Still... I am keeping a large inventory of 55 rather unusual books
in print on the better classic cameras...and I have the only supply of
Maisenberg's excellent Russian camera repair book. I will continue to do
this indefinitely regardless of unfair and corrupt competition and
sniping on NGs by the employees of bad camera stores. .
Yours faithfully, Ed Romney
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001
From: Roland [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Camera Repair--Gluing Felt to Brass
HypoBob wrote:
> I am repairing a filmback from a Mamiya Press camera and have come up
> against the problem of
> gluing a piece of felt to a piece of springy brass material. This assembly
> seals the slot where
> the dark slide enters the filmback.
>
> Could someone recommend an adhesive that is appropriate for gluing the
> felt to the glass? The
> back of the felt is not fuzzy, but seems to have a 'hardened' surface, maybe
> so that the glue
> won't soak all the way through.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
Sounds like Evo-Stik leather adhesive would be best.
To: [email protected]
From: [email protected]
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Oiling shutter curtain pivots
I'll reply to two messages. Using syringes is OK. Depending on
circumstances or where you live, possession may be illegal. You can
buy larger gage tips and glue them on to an eyedropper. McMaster Carr
Co. sells them by the bag I believe. Contenti Co. (jeweler's
supplies) also sells them in their resin casting section.
In looking for supplies online, SHOP AROUND. Prices can vary as
much as 100% I'd suggest Frie & Borel to start
http://www.ofrei.com/index.html
As for books, Donald de Carle has written several. "Practical
Watch Repairing" would probably be the best to start with. The tools
and workbench he suggests fit in nicely with camera repair. In any
case, if I get one good idea out of any book, I consider the book to
be a good investment.
I have no clue as to the differences between clear and yellow
watch oil. Put a drop of each on a plate of glass and see how they
spread out. That at least gives you an indication of thick versus
thin. WD-40 is good if you can gently get it out of the can. With a
light touch it is possible to get it to drop out rather than spray.
Drop it into a dish then transfer it to the camera or whatever.
Hope this information helps.
--- In camera-fix@y..., "Kelvin" kelvinlee@p...> wrote:
> I have some watch oil, one bottle is yellow liquid and one clear - both
> from same company. There is no indication on the difference between them.
> How can I tell?
>
> I do have an oiler ... but I tried dabbing it and the amounts are so
> miniscule I can't
> imagine them making any diff!
>
> Any suggestion of good books for watch and clock repair?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: toolmaker48@y...>
> To: camera-fix@y...>
> Sent: Monday, October 08, 2001
> Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Oiling shutter curtain pivots
>
>
> > Try 'pivot oil' from a watch and clock supplier. They are also
> > a good source of tools, including oilers specifically design to
> > dispense small drops of oil. There are a couple of good books
> > currently in print dealing with watch and clock repair which provide
> > a lot of basic information dealing with removing stuck screws, making
> > springs, etc. which can be applied to camera repair in general.
> >
> > --- In camera-fix@y..., "Kelvin" kelvinlee@p...> wrote:
> > > hi all
> > >
> > > I've been trying to oil the shutter curtain pivots of my Pentax H3v.
> > >
> > > How much is the correct amount of oil to use? I followed Tomosey's
> > > suggestion of dabbing some 3-in-1 oil with a 1.4mm jeweller's
> > screwdriver.
> > >
> > > This proved to be too much and the 2nd curtain won't close and
> > mirror won't
> > > come down ( at all speeds , so not escapment). I then went to some
> > lighter
> > > fluid to
> > > dilute it ... it worked fine, till the lighter fluid dried out,
> > same problem
> > > came
> > > back (not enough lube). So this process was alternated, and I've
> > not come
> > > to a nice balance yet.
> > >
> > > It always works well for a bit, till the lighter fluid dries out.
> > >
> > > I am thinking of diluting some 3-in-1 in some lighter fluid and
> > apply one
> > > small drop.
> > >
> > > Any ideas?
> >
To: [email protected]
From: [email protected]
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] Re: Spotmatic F aperture index lever
--- In camera-fix@y..., "Kelvin" kelvinlee@p...> wrote:
> I wish we still had a Natcam course!
>
Wish I had them when I took the Natcam course.
Don
I think it's still available - not sure of address but check
www.acecam.com/aceforum.html. There's a guy called Don in Oregon who
posts there. You can email him for info.
Don ( not in Oregon)
From: [email protected] (DOgle7351)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace.medium-format
Date: 06 Nov 2001
Subject: FS: SPT repair manual. BRONICA S2, S2A, & C
SPT repair manual. about 200 pages.line drawings. explode views of body, film
backs, bellows, prisms,TTL meter, grip, tools. and part numbers. $20.
e-mail me direct at [email protected]
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2001
To: [email protected]
From: Richard Knoppow [email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Non-Rollei Accessories
you wrote:
>Ummmm, I guess I must have misled you all about my 3.5F-- it isn't the
>shutter itself that I find jerky, it's the shutter release linkages that are
>creepy. I have Ed Romneys Rollei repair manual (I don't want to start a
>discussion on him or his manuals,please), and in Romney's typical sketchy
>style, he says unscrew the self-timer button if it has one. I don't know if
>he means the self-timer lever, or if some models have a button that holds
>the lever on. Mine has no button, and I don't see how the lever comes off.
>So, Gene and Richard, what do I do to remove the cover plate so that I can
>see the linkages? And while I'm at it, I need to clean and lube the
>self-timer mechanism, as it won't trip the shutter at the end of it's run.
>I always appreciate your kind help to everyone on this list. Thanks.
>
>pk
>
>>> PK,
There is a much more complete Rollei manual available from Petra Keller
or John S. Craig (they seem to have a lot of duplication in their stuff)
around $35 US. I also suggest getting _Rollei Technical Report_ Claus
Prochnow, available from Petra Keller. This has factory set-up instructions
and exploded views of all Rollei cameras.
I think Romney's description is of the MX. On these and older cameras
there is a self timer button which is slotted on the edges. Not on E's and
F's. The E has a screw under the self-timer/flash synch lever wich acts as
a stop for the lever but also helps hold the front panel on. I think the F
is different but have never worked on one. From the drawings the
timer/synch lever on these is part of the front panel and doesn't have to
come off to remove the panel. The drawings are not very clear about this.
The self timer on an E or F is part of the shutter rather than a separate
mechanism as in the MX and older Rolleis. If its sticky it probably means
the entire shutter should be cleaned.
It appears from the drawings that the front panel is held on by screws
under the leather covering plus the collar holding the flash connector must
be removed.
The F is a very complex camera compared to earlier Rolleis. Since they
are valuable I think a proper repair is justified especially since a
compentent repair person like Harry Fleenor or Marflex will give the camera
an overhaul fixing small problems you may not reailze are there. Not cheap
but you won't need to have it done again for many years.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
[email protected]
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2001
To: [email protected]
From: Richard Knoppow [email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Home Shutter Cleaning
you wrote:
>Thanks Richard,
>
>The first time I did anything with a shutter I was armed with a post of
>yours saying pretty much what you just said. I'm starting to get a clue
>as to how they work, but I'd love to have some kind of manual.
>Fortunately, these small Compurs were used in a lot of old cameras and
>I've been able to take a few apart and recently, even put them back
>together again. As soon as I get a little time I'll put together a
>step-by-step for cleaning the shutter on an automat, which is pretty
>simple.
>
>Gene
There is a reprint Compure manual available from both Petra Keller and
John Craig. I think it is the same manual. About $30 when I got mine. Petra
Keller: http://www.camerabooks.com
John S. Craig: http://www.craigcamera.com
John Craig also has original and reprint instruction manuals for a great
many cameras and other photographic equipment.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
[email protected]
To: [email protected]>
From: Bob Shell [email protected]>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] camera terms and parts
Mark Overton at [email protected] wrote:
> I've been daydreaming about writing a book about repairing leaf shutters.
> So you have terms like pallet, starwheel, escapement, mainspring, etc.
Those are watch and clock terms as well. It may be that a basic book on
watch and clock repair would be useful for beginners in camera repair.
I tinkered with watches for a while. Parts pretty much the same, but just
too darned small! At least you can work on most camera stuff without
magnifiers!
BTW, one of the best basic texts on shutter repair is the US Military
repair book for Graphic cameras. I picked one up ages ago at a used book
store. It covers in good detail how both the focal plane and leaf shutters
work, and how to fix them. Funniest part is where it tells you how to
render cameras unusable if captured by the enemy. Suggests running over
them with tanks, chopping up with axes, blowing up with explosives, and
other good stuff. I know there is also a military manual on Leica but I
have never found one.
Bob
To: [email protected]
From: "Rick Oleson" [email protected]>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] "How it Works"
hi!
i just got some 'how it works' articles posted on my site. in the
interest of getting them there in a reasonable amount of time i just
scanned the old typed articles, so they're not real pretty.
not all of the internal links are set up yet, but you can get to them
all from the tech notes page at http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-
27.html
rick :)=
To: [email protected]>
From: "Victor Helis" [email protected]>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001
Subject: [camera-fix] The Link to the Repair Guides
Hi there
What do you think about these sourses of repair guiges?
http://www.camera-collectors.com/ShopSite/RepairGuides.html
Bye
Victor
To: [email protected]
From: [email protected]
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] tools
First thing to purchase is:
"Camera Repair & Maintenance" by Thomas Tomosy
ISBN 0-936262-09-5
Lib. Of Cong. 92-81816
Tomosy gives a good list of tools, and shows how to make several tools from
easily obtained materials.
In addition, the book is an excellent primer for getting started in camera
repair.
The book is profusely illustrated and has many photos of several popular
cameras is various stages of "undress"
Roland F. Harriston
[Ed. Note: these are no doubt long sold, only listed here for info on publications and resources...]
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace
Date: 05 Dec 2001
Subject: FS- CAMERA CRAFTSMAN - repair publication
FOR SALE: "CAMERA CRAFTSMAN" Issues (Rare Camera Repair Publication)
They have repair tips and information on a wide variety of cameras, as written
by numerous camera technicians around the world. As there are multi-part
articles
I am only selling these issues in one group. The information here will help
restore a valuable camera or groups of cameras and lenses.
The list here is only an approximation of the contents of each issue, only a
highlight of what I have read from each issue as I have not gone through them
thoroughly.
Issues for Sale - Partial Information on Contents:
9-10/60 - varied info
1-12-61- varied info
1-2-62- early autoexposure shutters
3-4-62- Leica system
9-10-62- Zeiss Contarex
5-6-63- Primarette / Zeiss Tenax II
9-10-63 Hasselblad
11-12-63- Hasselblad (cont'd) / Bronica S
5-6-64- Kilfitt/optical glass info/ misc. Zeiss cameras
7-8-64- Optical glass info/ Leitz Visoflex
11-12-64- Macro/Micro lenses
3-4-65- Minolta 35 II (Leica Copy)
3-4-66- Miniature lathe/Voigtlander Superb
5/6-66- Compur electronic/Edixa 35MM SLR
11-12-66- Contaflex/90MM Elmar
1-2-67- varied info
3-4-67- varied info
5-6-67- flash history
9-10-67- Zeiss Contarex Super
11-12-67- Kowaflex model E
3-4-68- Prontor 500LK
5-6-68- Electronic shutters
7-8-68- Olympus 6/Kodak Signet 80
11-12-68- Bolex Reflex/Rex/Mamiya C3 TLR
1-2-69- Compur/ Pentax H3/Agfaflex/Kalimar 660
11-12-69- Aerial Cameras
5-6-69- Prontor 5oo electronic/Agfa Optima/Topcon
9-10-69- Aerial cameras/collimator
1-2-70- Synchro-Compur shutter/Warner6x6/Norita
5-6-70- Nikon F/ Zeiss Jena 58MM Biotar
7-8-70- Rollei 35/Nikkormat FT
9-10-70- Hasselblad 500/Yashicamat 124G
11-12-70- Leaf shutter history/Canon f1.4
3-4-71- Auto exposure cameras/Pentacon/Kalimar Reflex
5-6-71- Aires Viscount
1-2-72- Lens Info/Kowa 6 repair
3-4-72- Lens Info/Petri FT
5-6-72- Nikon F2/Topcon/ Lens Info.
7-8-72- Regula Reflex 2000/Voigtlander Bessamatic/Nikon F2
11-12-72- Yashica TL Electro-X
Package Price - for all of the above issues - $185
Send email for further information.
From Nikon MF Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001
From: Michael Briggs [email protected]>
Subject: RE: lens repair books
Nikon Camera Repair Handbook by Thomas Tomosy.
You probably should also get Camera Maintenance and Repair by Tomosy, which
explains camera repair procedures generally applicable to all makes of
cameras.
An experienced repair person probably doesn't need a manual specific to a
particular lens. If you know the general procedures, you should be able
to figure out a specific lens.
...
From nikon MF mailing list:
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001
From: "Mike" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Lens repair books?
laika. National camera had some out of print articles on the camera
craftsman from their now closed school. you will get them from infotech
po box 370884 denver colorado. 80237-0884. so there you go. I am looking
for some broken cameras for my school studies. can ya help me out? they
need to be complete though. hopefully with their lens. help me out and ,,,
thanks.
as always,
Mike
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002
From: Richard Knoppow [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Help! My Rolleiflex Automat is jammed!
...
A couple of things. Many repairs can be made on older Rolleis, Fs are
very complex and are too valuable to take a chance on.
If you want to learn to work on them get a junker or two. There some good
books on Rolleis and general camera repair. A reprinted factory manual is
available from both John S. Craig http://www.craigcamera.com and from Petra
Keller, http://www.camerabooks.com
Both also have books on Compur shutters.
There was also a series published by National Camera. I've forgotten
where I got mine, maybe one of the above. Ed Romney's books are also
useful. I think he has improved his presentation, the older ones look like
they were put together by Bart Simpson.
Even if you never intend to open a Rollei its interesting to know what is
inside the thing. They are very well engineered and very well constructed.
Some cameras are easier to work on then others. I find Rolleis and screw
mount Leica's fairly easy, Nikon F's much more difficult. Most shutters are
easy although you must be careful not to loose small parts and to becareful
of jamming them, which can be very time consuming and tedious to undo.
The guy at Koh's is full of it. Repair may be fairly expensive. Check
with Harry Fleenor for an estimate or at least a minimum. Remember, this is
hand work. If skilled its expensive.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
[email protected]
From Camera Fixing Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002
From: Darcie [email protected]
Subject: [camera-fix] Freedom Manuals
Did someone on this list ask for the Freedom Manuals? There are some here:
http://www.geocities.com/eskoufos/fmm.html
(sorry, I deleted the senders address, it was this list or the other one.)
Thanks!
Darcie
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002
From: Ron Schwarz [email protected]
Subject: Re: SPT journal - where to get ?
you wrote:
>dear experts,
>what are the SPT journals Mr.Doucette mentions and where can I get them ?
http://www.spt.info
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001
From: Sepp Meier [email protected]
Subject: Dick Werner's manuals
Somebody wanted a table of contents for the body manual. I just received
mine. It consists of five loose sheets, printed on one side, with 17
illustrations. There are two underlined headings: "The Tools Required for
work on the bodies" (p.1) and "We shall now put the body back together into
it's shell to finish the job" (p.3). The first two pages deal with
disassembling, the last two with reassembling, the middle page with
lubricating, cleaning, adjusting.
The magazine manual has 23 illustrations on nine pages.
All pages have a rather large "Copyrighted Material - Do Not Copy" line
running over text and illustrations down the middle.
For $110 Dick sends the 14 pages promptly.
Sepp Meier
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: In the rush, I forgot a couple of things
In the rush to get the body manual out, I omitted telling you some of
what is covered in the manual. Some of the items covered in both the
body repair manual and the magazine repair manual are shown here....
http://home.att.net/~blackbird711/manual.txt
>From this page you will be able to get a birds eye view of either
manual, and pricing info.
Sorry for the omissions.
--
_______________________________
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
[email protected]
[Ed. note: many USA depository libraries will have these old Military repair manuals
for Leica, combat graphic, and even some movie cameras, with excellent info and photos...]
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002
From: Jerry Lehrer [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT - Leica repair
Rob
Fortunately for you, there is nothing mysterious about
the M2 Leica. The US Army was confident enough of
this camera to issue maintenence and repair manuals just
for the M2.
I;m sure that there are enough North Texans that can direct
you to an able technician.
(I suspect a broken band in the shutter)
Jerry
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002
From: Roger Provins [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [camera-fix] Re: Yashica LM TLR frame counter
Try http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/repairmanuals.html
Regards
Roger
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002
To: [email protected]
From: Patrick Harris [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Photos taken with Russian/Ukrainian lenses
WOW!! I just want to give the URL for a little further in at this site for
a great part on FED/Zorki maintenance - fortunately the adage "one picture
is worth a thousand words" really applies.
Pat
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~hd9f-segs/fed-maintenance.htm
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002
From: [email protected]
Subject: [HUG] Lens Repair
I just finished a new Lens Repair Manual for the Hasselblad "C" type
lenses. Some of you guys may be interested in it. It can be seen at the
"manuals" address below. The manual covers the following:
1. The disassembly of the lens such that the slow speed gear train can
be lubricated.
2. How to replace the lens main spring.
3. How to replace the flash sync.
4. How to clean and relube the focus ring helicoids.
5. How to clean oily shutter blades without taking the lens all apart.
6. How to take care of a slow sticky shutter without taking the lens
apart. A WOW NEAT TRICK that I accidentally stumbled across a few
years ago!!!
I guess what got me going to finish this manual was a posting to this
group about a week ago by a lady by the name of Joan. She said
her repair man was going to charge her $200 to replace a main spring.
This is big time rip off and I hate to see it.
--
Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
[email protected]
http://home.earthlink.net/~blackbird711/manuals.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~blackbird711/hassequip.html
from russian camera mailing list
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" [email protected]
Subject: Camera Craftsman Microfiled
Comrades,
I should point out that the house magazine of the former National Camera
Repair School, "The Camera Craftsman" was microfilmed by University
Microfilms International. I doubt many libraries have a copy sitting on
the shelf, and I don't know if it's still available, but the matter should
be investigated. The university libraries seem to have more funds for such
a purchase if a faculty or staff member requests it.
------
Robert
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Repair References
I got a hold of an old National Camera Repair course, which I thought was
very helpful. It at least provided me, with an extensive introductory
source of information regarding cameras, maintenance and repair.
Although by no means complete, it was well worth the price.
Denn
From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002
From: "Merritt, Robert" [email protected]
Subject: RE: [RF List] Books on Repair
Bruce -- If you're interested in repairing the Soviet cameras, you must get
Isaak Maizenberg's book on repairing Soviet cameras. (Sorry, but the exact
name escapes me.) He covers all the Soviet rangefinders, but I don't think
he deals with SLRs. It's the most thorough repair book I have ever seen,
and extensively illustrated with good reproductions of detailed line
drawings (probably from factory repair manuals). The book was privately
published and is now out of print; it won't be reissued, I believe. Your
best bet may be to contact the photo book specialists to see if they have
any copies in stock. It's not cheap; I think I paid about $50 for mine.
You can try these folks, where I got my copy:
http://www.photobooksonline.com/index.html
or here:
http://www.camerabooks.com/
Nick
From rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002
From: Stephen Castello [email protected]
Subject: Re: [RF List] Books on Repair
Maizenberg's book is called: All You Need to Know About Design and Repair of
Russian Cameras.
It covers:
Moscow-2,4, and 5
Lubitel, Lubitel-2
Sputnick
Estafeta
Smena, Smena-2,3,4,5,6,M,2M and Vesna
Kiev-Vega
Fed, Zorki, Zorki-2,C,2C,3,3M,4,5,6 and Mir
Fed-2,3 and Zarya
Zenit, Zenit-C,3,3M and Crystal
Kiev-2,2A,3,3A,4,4A
Start
Stephen
....
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002
From: Proxar Photo [email protected]
Subject: [HUG] DICK WERNER'S TRILOGY!!!! LENS REPAIR MANUAL FOR HASSELBLAD LENSES.
DICK WERNER'S TRILOGY!!!! LENS REPAIR MANUAL FOR HASSELBLAD LENSES.
Hello all,
Has anybody here noticed that Mr. Dick Werner has completed his long promised, third Hasselblad
repair manual that deals with lenses and shutters? The man has done it again! Not only we can
now service our backs and bodies but lenses too!
All three manuals are written in a non-mistifying manner, so that everyone, including you and me
can understand what is going on with those tiny gears and springs.
I remember the time when, before I learned about his first, back repair manual,
I had to pay $200 plus for the overhaul of a single body that I purchased used
on Ebay, and it was working perfectly, but I just had to send it to Hasselblad
for thorough check before I put it in professional use.
Mr Werner has many followers who are fed up with discustingly high prices of
camera repair services and expalins in each and every on his manuals, easy step
by step instructions on how to maintain your equipment in top working order.
Mr. Werner is a constant contributor to this list and he can be contacted at
[email protected]
From: [email protected] (Monty)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Restoring Classic and Antique Cameras
Date: 17 Sep 2002
Check out this book on how to restore old cameas such as Leica. It is realy good.
http://www.montysmagic.com/asn.html
Monty
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002
From: "Peter Wallage" [email protected]
Subject: Working on Kiev cameras
Bob Shell wrote;
"I've never seen Tomosy's books, but hear about them all the
time. Maybe I should look for copies for when I work on my Kiev
cameras."
Hi Bob,
I've got Tomosy's books and they are a great help as reference,
but for working on a Kiev 4 I found the best book to be Zeiss
Contax Repair Manual Models II & III by Peter Tooke. I have
mentioned this book before, but I think it was on another forum,
possibly the Zeiss Ikon one. He goes through the strip-down,
repair and rebuild in small detail and, of course, it all applies to
the Kiev Contax clone. Most internet booksellers keep it, and I'm
not recommending it just because I know Peter Tooke, it really is
invaluable.
Regards,
Peter
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002
From: Marv Soloff [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Oil \ lubricant
Robert Mueller wrote:
>
> It would be tempting to use just any light oil to treat the AE-1 squeak but
> normal mineral oils have a troublesome property; they wander, crawling over
> the surface. This takes the oil away from where you want it and deposits it
> somewhere you definitely don't want it. Clock and watch oils often contain
> either animal oils selected for stability against oxidation or synthetic oils,
> and possibly a mixture.These are better in the above critical properties.
>
> Can anybody tell me more about getting rid of the squeak in the AE-1; as soon
> as I fix my tungsten cable problem I might have to deal with my own squeak?
>
> Bob
AE-1 Squeak (from Joe Lippencott's book "Care and Repair of Classic
Cameras" ISBN 0-9672079-0-8)
"To cure Canon A-series squeal, remove front apron (4 screws), remove
top left lens mount screw .... insert oiler --- deposit one drop of oil
where the flywheel contacts the nylon gears."
Paraphrased. Better if you can locate Joe's book and take a look at the
pictures. Very easy, but incredibly easy to totally screw up the camera
if done wrong.
Regards,
Marv
From: John Garand [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace
Subject: Re: Ed Romney's Back (And There's Gonna Be Laundry....)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002
Colyn [email protected] WROTE:
> [email protected] (Rosedco) wrote:
>
>>And if you are into camera repair either as an amateur or a pro you will
>>appreciate what Ed has accomplished with his camera repair information.
>>
>>
>Yea....
>
>He copyed the repair manuals of the individual camera makers..
...
I have several copies of factory manuals and I have a couple of
manuals from Romney. A quick look through either of the Romney
manuals disabuses the reader of the idea that these are nothing but
copies of a manual produced by the camera maker. For one thing,
camera makers would never suggest an independent source of a
particular tool for accomplishing a task (other than buying their own
tool or assuming an authorized repair shop will already have the
tool). I can't say all his manuals are like this, but I have no
reason to believe there are many (or any) which are not.
You don't have to like Romney, but I'll bet he knows how to correctly
spell "copied".
From camera repair mailing list:
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003
From: "lensincs [email protected]
Subject: Discounts on repair manuals at www.lensinc.net
Hi,
I have a website for Camera Hobbyists that offers links, information,
free repair tips as well as high quality repair manuals for sale
http://www.lensinc.net. I am in the process of slowly liquidating
all of my bound paper repair manuals and going entirely to repair
manuals in PDF format on CDs. If anyone at [email protected]
is in need of a bound paper repair manual and if I have it in stock,
they may purchase the manual for a flat 20% off my current 10 cents
per page pricing on the manuals. Please understand, I am not making
the offer public on my website and if one of your members want the
discount, they must reference this email or the
[email protected] - Hobbyist Camera Repair Group. Also, the
discount does not apply to PDF repair manuals on CDs.
Thank you,
Jim Hutchins
Website: http://www.lensinc.net
Email: mailto:[email protected]
From ZICG mailing list:
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002
From: Marv Soloff [email protected]
Subject: Re: Compur shutter repair manual
Both the Comput Dial-set and Compur Rim-set (Pre 1945) shutters are
covered rather thoroughly in a book called "Camera Repair and Servicing"
by one E. Valera. I have this information, bought as a Shutter Repair
only reprint on eBay from someone who trades as "nikondave". This book
is precisely what you are looking for. If you cannot contact "nikondave"
and get a copy of the Valera book, contact me privately, we'll work out
something.
Regards,
Marv
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003
From: Pat [email protected]
Subject: Ed Romney
Some of you may have known Ed. Today, when I called to order some things,
his wife gave me the sad news about his death. Due to health problems he
and Sara had moved back to SC after only a few years in NM. I talked with
his wife for a few minutes and she is still "running the business". The
following are the two announcements from the Spartanburg Herald.
Edward H. Romney
Memorial services for Edward Herrick Romney, 71, of 305 Pineville Road,
Spartanburg will be held Thursday, April 24th at 4:30 p.m. at the Cannons
Baptist Church conducted by the Rev. David Swofford, the Rev. Lowry Drennen
and the Rev. Beth Drennen.
Date: 04/24/03
Edward Herrick Romney
Spartanburg, SC-- Edward Herrick Romney, 71, of 305 Pineville Road,
Spartanburg, died Monday, April 21st, 2003 in the Spartanburg Regional
Medial Center.
Date: 04/23/03
From: "Richard Knoppow" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Books and reference on shutter CLA and basic repair
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003
"Dr. Dagor" [email protected] wrote
> I know, I know, I know... smart people send their shutters to Grimes
> or Camera Wiz, and fools like me try to clean and adjust them
> themselves...
>
> So for fools like me, what are the basic books/articles/references on
> doing CLAs and adjusting shutters?
See John Craig's site at http://www.craigcamera.com and
Petra Keller's at http://www.camerabooks.com both have
reprint factory manuals on shutters and cameras.
Another source is Ed Romney who publishes a series of
books on camera repair. His current stuff is considerably
improved over the originals.
Craig, I think, has some of the old National Camera
training booklets which are excellent.
I got into repairing my own stuff after encountering an
absolutely incompetant fellow at a highly recommended place
locally.
You don't need many special tools but a good magnifier and
a steady hand are helpful. Most shutters do not need
extensive disassembly to clean.
A very helpful tool is the little shutter tester sold by
Calumet. I think these things are to around $100 now (I paid
$60 for mine). This will tell you exactly what the shutter
is doing. I can be used on between the lens shutters and
focal plane shutters. Its sensor is small enough to check
the end to end uniformity of the FP shutters in 35mm
cameras. It will also measure strobe duration time,
sometimes useful to know.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
[email protected]
From: "Richard Knoppow" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: HOW TO TAKE LENSES OFF A COMPUR-P SHUTTER?
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003
...
There may well be a web site but I don't know of it.
Lenses are mounted in most shutters in screw mount cells.
The cell is the metal barrel that contains the glass lens
elements. The glass parts do not have to be removed from the
cell.
The cell mearly screws into the front and back of the
shutter. Often, the shutter will have adaptor tubes. These
are simply short tubes threaded on each end. One end is
threaded ito the shutter, the ohter end is threaded to take
the lens cell.
Sometimes cells are hard to remove. Its helpful to use a
gripper like a rubber glove go give your hands better
traction. No tool should be necessary. In some cases the
shutter will have to be removed from its lens board to get
the back cell off. It depends on how much of the cell sticks
out.
Ed Romney has some elementary books on camera repair. Not
the best written but unique and valuable for getting
started. See: http://www.edromney.com
Other sources are the reprint books on shutters and
cameras from John S. Craig and Petra Keller. Both are very
reliable dealers.
John Craig is at: http://www.craigcamera.com
Petra Keller is at: http://www.camerabooks.com
For working on shutters you will need a set of jewelers
screwdrivers. Servicable sets can even be found in the
grocery store but a hardware store is likely to have better
quality.
You need fine tweezers. Ideally, this should be Dumont
pattern made of non-magnetic stainless steel. They are
widely available surplus for not much. In liu of these one
can use regular eyebrow plucker tweezers.
Work in a box so that you won't loose any parts. Pill
containers are good for holding parts while you work. Small
screws, etc., can be stuck on a piece of sticky tape to make
them easier to find.
It is VERY helpful to have drawings and photos of the
shutter so you will know where things go. If you have a
digital camera take pictures while you work. Don't rely on
memory.
Suitable oil can be had from hobby shops who sell model
railroad stuff. I use a brand called LeBell. It comes in
three grades, use the thinnest. Another good oil but harder
to find is Nyoil, do a Google search to find sources. The
oil is applied to only a few places, mainly the trunions of
the gears and to the pallet of the excapement. A very small
amount is needed. Apply with a toothpick or use a very fine
brush. To use the brush put a drop or two of the oil on a
saucer and brush it out. Then pick up just a little on the
tip of the brush and put it where you want it. Watchmakers
use special oil dispensers but for occasional use you don't
need such fancy tools.
The best solvents are pure naptha. Ronsonol lighter fluid
works well. Hardware store naptha works for rough cleaning
but my not be pure enough to dry without leaving a residue.
You can dip the shutter in the solvent and blow it out
with canned air. You can also make a simple vapor degreaser
by putting some solvent in the bottom of a jar, putting the
shutter on a bit of screen and closing the top. Let this sit
in a warm place for a while. Then open and remove the
shutter.
Another solvent which works well is pure Isopropyl
alcohol. 99% Isopropyl is available in most drug stores. Do
NOT use rubbing alcohol, it has too much water in it. The
use of both Alcohol and naptha sequentially will insure
removal of all grease and oils from the shutter parts.
Shutters will often work dry (no lubricant) if very clean
and some shutters (Ilex for instance) are intended to run
dry. However, the life of the shutter and its speed
consistency will be better if properly lubricated. Some
shutters need additional lubrication. A very light dose of
Lubriplate to the speed ring for instance but in general
grease is not used in shutters. No lubricant should EVER be
applied to shutter blades or diaphragm blades. They must be
scrupulously clean. Even a very small amount of residue on
shutter blades will cause enough drag to significantly slow
down the shutter.
Extremely dirty shutters must be partially disassembled
to be cleaned adequately. Occasionally one must be
completely disassembled but this is a major job and most
shutters are difficult to reassemble. You definitely need
drawings and photos to do this. For the most part removing
the lens cells, front cover, and perhaps the speed ring, are
all that is necessary.
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
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