MAMIYA C330 Twin Lens Reflex
Photo thanks to Bob Erdman [email protected]
Related Links:
See Cameras Pages for related Mamiya C series TLRs
Mamiya C330 TTL Metering
Prism ($200 Kiev TTL)
Mamiya C330
Manual Online
Jan Jaap's
C330/C220 Resources and Manual Pages
MAMIYA C330 PROFESSIONAL twin-lens reflex, medium-format camera with Mamiya-Sekor 1:2.8 f=80mm lens (black, Seiko shutter, no lens cap) which focuses as close as 7 inches. Shutter speeds are from B,1-1/500 second, and M,X flash synchronization. Aperture range 2.8-32. This camera has an older style waist-level finder with built-in magnifier. The camera allows for interchangeable lenses, backs, and focusing screens. Using "Shutterbug" magazine's standards, this camera is SB EX (Excellent condition). The rack-and-pinion focusing is smooth, the bellows is perfect, and the shutter works at all speeds. The camera operates perfectly. The camera takes 6cm x 6cm images on 120 (12 exp.) or 220 (24 exp.) film, has single or multi-exposure control. All in all, an excellent workhorse for medium format. A manual for the camera can be found at www.phys.rug.nl/mk/people/aue/c330.htm.
From: erik [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: MAMIYA TLR lens compatability?
Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998
Steve1chsn wrote: > > Does anyone know if the old chrome lenses will fit and work on the 330 body? I > know they won't auto shutter cock but can they be used otherwise? Thanks > -steve v all the mamiya tlr lenses are interchangeable.. take a look at this faq for more info: http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/m_faq01.htm
From: Graham Patterson [email protected]
Subject: Response to C330 Mag Ratios?
Date: 1998-05-18
The areas covered at closest focus according to the manuals are:
55mm 6.4cm sq.
65mm 6.7cm sq.
80mm 8.6cm sq.
105mm 21.8cm sq.
135mm 25.2cm sq.
180mm (std. and super) 27.2cm sq.
250mm 31.1cm sq.
The film dimension is 5.6cm sq.
The 105 DS is slightly different from the 105.
From: Darron Spohn [email protected]
Subject: Response to M645 lenses on 6x6 bodies
Date: 1998-05-25
I agree with Joachim. I just got out of my darkroom after printing some
11x14 shots of Upper Yosemite Falls. I took these with my Mamiya C330 a
few months ago, after an all-night snowstorm. They are beautiful, and the
Mamiya C330 has some definite advantages, low cost chief among them. The
main disadvantage to the C330 system is the lack of a lens wider than
55mm.
From: Frans van de Camp [email protected]
Subject: Response to Follow up re: Mamiya TLR Black vs. Chrome Lenses
Date: 1998-05-28
Hello,
As I used Mamiya C220 and C330 cameras for years I have gathered some
information on these TLR's. As far as I know, the construction of the
lenses remained unchanged throughout the years. I used the 3,5/65 mm,
which was very good, the 4,5/135, which was fair and the 6,3/250 which was
awful. To get some sort of a decent shot you had to stop down to f 16 and
the result was still poor; the lenses can't be made faster because there
are two together on the lensplate. If the lensopenings were to be made
larger, the lenses would have to be put wider apart and this is
impossible.
To get back to your question, there were two versions of the 180 mm lens, a
normal and a Super one. Make sure you get the Super 180, because it has much
less distorsion. Apart from this addition and the finish in black instead of
chrome, no development was put into these lenses, as far as I know.
I was really fond of my Mamiya cameras but found them quite cumbersome to
use.
Nevertheless, it was a very interesting and unique design.
I now own a Pentax 67, which makes better use of the film format. The lenses
are much better, and much faster too.
Crisp from corner to corner.
I hope to have rendered some useful information.
Frans
From: Frans van de Camp [email protected]
Subject: Response to mamiya lens
Date: 1998-05-28
As I used both the C220 and C330 cameras for years I have some experience
with them. I owned the 3,5/65 mm, the 4,5/135 mm and the 6,3/250 mm
lenses. The 65 mm was very good, crisp, extremely sharp in the centre and
reasonably sharp in the corners; when stopped down to 5,6 or better, 8 the
lens was almost comparable with the best Zeiss lenses. This lens has never
disappointed me. The 135 mm was good in the centre, a little less in the
corners, but useful for portraits. The 250 mm was very disappointing, not
only was it very slow (6,3 at full apperture), but the sharpness just
wouldn't come, not even when stopped down to 16. Poor quality. When using
this lens, I always had to use fast films (400 ASA) and the image quality
would suffer. Eventually I sold the cameras and now own a Pentax 67, which
makes better use of the frame, has much better lenses and much faster ones
too (2,4/105 and 2,8/165 mm!). Nevertheless, the Mamiyas were a special
type in their own right and many professional photographers are still
using them today.
From my experience, and this had been confirmed in all sorts of
testreports I
read throughtout the years, the best lenses were the 55 mm, the 65 mm,
the 80
mm, the 105 mm and the Super 180 mm.
Forget the 250.
I hope to have rendered some useful informetion.
Frans
From: JERRY FEIGELMAN [email protected]
Subject: Response to Vignetting on C330 Prism.
Date: 1998-06-19
Yes the old C330 f and earlier do vignette with the prisim finder to solve this problem I recoment a Beattie bright screen or a Brightscreen brand this is the focusing screen issue not the finder .
good luck
From: Mark Hubbard [email protected]
Subject: Response to Does anyone have any spare focussing screens for Mamiya
330S TLR?
Date: 1998-07-08
B&H stills sells them brand new for only $19.95. You can visit their web site at http://www.bhphotovideo.com/
Go to Photo, then Medium Format,
then Mamiya, then C330 Accessories, then Focusing Screens for C330S.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Steve1chsn)
[1] Re: Opinions
wanted on Mamiya C330
Date: Tue Jul 14 19:09:43 CDT 1998
Is that including a lens? If so, that is a good price depending of course
on condition. The 330 came first, followed by the 330f and then 330s, so
you are talking about the earliest unit. Prices have been going steadily
up on these 3 versions, but condition is the factor that is the biggest
determinant for price. A large percentage of them have seen hard use as
wedding photogs accepted them as the standard for many years. That said,
they are incredibly rugged and in fact can still be repaired and/or
overhauled by Mamiya as well as many other repair facilities. Your
results will be indistinguishable from the Rollei (i've had both)but with
interchangeable lenses on the 330, the Rollei cannot even attempt to
compete( you can only use cropping so much as a way to overcome the
shortcoming of only one lens).
Steve Vancosin
------------------------------------------------------
"knowledge is good"
[Ed. note: anybody know of 135mm f/2.8 production lenses for Mamiya
Cxx/x?]
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998
From: GdO/LO [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Mamiya TLR 135mm f2.8
I've got a Mamiya TLR 135mm f2.8 S lens. My research shows no indication
that a 135mm was built at f2.8. Was my lens a cannibalised recreation?
If anyone has insight on its design and year of make, please let me
know.
From Medium Format Digest:
From: windsor [email protected]
Subject: Response to Closeups with Mamiya TLR
Date: 1999-01-11
Although closup photography is not my main interest, I have done some with a Mamiya 330 and all but the 65 and 105. The 55, 65, 80, 105 and 135 will all focus closer than 3' with the 55mm focussing at about 10" covering about 2.5"x2.5". With the aid of a paramender, the Mamiya TLR is actually a good system for closeup photography. My results were very good although never "extreme closeup". As for the "S" lenses, see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/index.html and the link to the Mamiya TLR site. I think there was an 80 3.7 S in a Copal shutter which was an "economy" version, there was also a 105DS which had depth of field preview and is a newer model (from what I hear is quite good) and a 180Super also a newer design and quite good (check the link, I may be wrong). I've shot with every lens except the 65/105 (no S lenses except the 180Super) and all performed very well, the 55 and 180Super are excellent. You will need the paramender for closeups.
cheers,
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (LDaneman)
[1] Re: Mamiya C-330/C-220 Lenses.
Date: Sat Jan 16 11:50:22 CST 1999
re: 330 lens quality.
I'vve done landscapes to portraiture and found the lenses excellent overall.
However, in large blow-ups, chromatic aberation and edge sharpness
decrease is very apparent, especially with the 55mm.
From: G.A.Patterson@_btinternet.com (Graham A. Patterson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Difference between C33 & C330
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999
[email protected] (war1) wrote:
>Can anyone tell me the difference between the Mamiya C33 Pro and the C330 >Pro?
Less weight, screen interchangeability, 120/220 option as standard,
shutter lock, and at least 15 years younger (use and abuse excepted).
Oh, and the finish is leatherette instead of rubber. I think that's
about it...
See http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/m_faq.htm
--
Graham Patterson http://www.rdg.ac.uk/~slspatte/
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999
From: Terry Favre [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: C220 & C330
I just wanted to let you know that we carry parts and whatnot for both of
these cameras, We also repair C220 & C330 of all modes.� We have also
repaired LOTS of stuff for B & H !!!� if your looking for various lenses
or ground glass or tech support give us a call Call Tom at Associated
Camera Repair - Mesa, Az. (480) 668-0915 of send me a E-Mail!!!!��
�
Terry...............
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000
From: [email protected] (Ian Jackson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Difference btw mamiya 330 vs 330f vs 330s?
[email protected] says...
| I've been looking into the same kind of purchase. Someonle else on this website | posted the following Mamiya TLR FAQ: | | http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/m_faq01.htm | | Eam 77 ck wrote: | | > Greetings, | > I'm looking to buy a mamiya TLR and have seen many offered on E-Bay. Can | > anyone please explain the difference between the 300, 330f, and 330s models. | > I'm assuming the s model is the latest and the 300 is the earliest. Am I | > correct? | > Are there any significant functional differences? | > | > Thanks much in advance,
Yes you are correct
Sequence: Mamiyaflex Original - 1957 C2 - 1958 C3 - 1962 C22 - 1966 C33 - 1965 C330 - C220 - C330f(mine) - 1979 C330s - 1990 See below:
It had an "improved" standard 80mm lens, improved multiple exposure
dial, improved neck strap lugs, improved shutter lock, improved screen
holder but 105mm and 250mm lenses inexplicably not mentioned in brochure.
I am very pleased with my 330f although the 80mm lens is not biting
sharp. Neither is my 135mm but my 65mm lens and 180mm Super telephoto
are superb.
regards,
Ian (Scotland)
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Mamiya C330
I have a C330 and have used it over the years for weddings and general
photography, I have really enjoy taking pictures with this camera, The
flash I choose to use on this over sized monster is the Metz CT-1. I have
a special design hand held frame that puts the flash above center of the
camera lens.
I suggest using the flash not only for indoors shooting, but outdoors for
fill as well. As far as the price of this type of equiptment, I would
suggest to anyone not to sell to cheap.
Thanks
George
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000
From: eromney [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: C330 lens , was, NOW IS BAD TIME TO BUY NEW CAMERAS
Not sure, I rather suspect the difference in opinion on C330 lenses is due
to poor collimation of some cameras. Often the two lenses do not focus the
same distance on cameras I find. This can be adjustrd by moving the top
lens, or the mirror. I had owned a C330 in the 1970's with 55, 80 and
135mm lenses. The 55 was very fine , the 80mm did not equal Zeiss Planar
even when properly collimated, and the 135mm was a bit down. My present
C330, bought from honest Midwest Camera (not NYC) has the "super" lenses
and appears astonishing. I took a group of over 50 people at F5.6 with the
80mm... and it was very clear... and they loved it...Big improvement over
the previous camera! Guess I need to do more testing to pin this down, but
I am very impressed with this camera with its new lenses. Also, unlike
Hassy, M645 and RB67, it is very quiet and steady ,which I love...Happy
New Year...Ed Romney http://www.edromney.com
Jim Davis wrote:
> >... I'll fight with you on the > >C330, though. Those lenses are really pretty bad when compared to > >nearly any other medium format camera. It's strange, too, because the > >Mamiya SLR lenses are nothing short of spectacular. The Supers are > >better but not close to what Mamiya now makes for their SLR's. I have > >a friend who does a lot of portraiture. He uses a C330 because he > >appreciates the 'softness' in his portrait lens. > > And I'll 'fight' with you on the sharpness of a Mamiya TLR > lens. Maybe your friend has one with some chips on the glass.) I had > one like that, it's common on older lenses. > My old mamiya TLR took some really really sharp pictures. > Pictures I've blown up to beyond 30 by 40 I might add. I've never read > anything about these lenses being anything but excellent. I've had the > 55, the 80 and the 110 - all were very sharp. I doubt you could tell > the negs from a Hassy. > Opinions like this should be kept to yourself. Regardless of > what your friend does with his Mamiya TLR. I personally have much > first hand experience with these cameras and lenses, and, well you > already know what I think of them... > webpage: http://www.kjsl.com/~jbdavis/
From: "Mike" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000
Subject: Re: C330 lens , was, NOW IS BAD TIME TO BUY NEW CAMERAS
The adjustment of the mirror is to obtain as perfect 45 degree alignment
as possible. Once you have the mirror set to 45 degrees then the focusing
screen or screen seat is shimmed to infinity focus. The Mamiya service
manual provides a step by step guide to focusing the body using a chart
and lens. Shifting the mirror MAY correct a focus problem for one lens but
it wont for three different focal length lenses. I am not going to
transcribe he entire service manual, you can get one from Mamiya. There
are no trade secrets Ed. You want people to believe there are so they
will buy your book. When I begin my camera repair career 30 years ago
there wasn't much information available from the manufactures. I worked
for a shop in New York city for a while then I worked for Berkey Marketing
for a couple of years. I may not be up on the new stuff but I do know the
old and I do know how to focus a camera body as apposed to the lenses. The
confusion is yours Ed.
"eromney" [email protected] wrote
> You can shim the mirror on any TLR to make the top lens focus further away or > make it planar to the film plane. . If you screw the top lens in or out it will > only correct bad collimation for one lens set. If the body is misaligned, you > would have to set all your lenses, then they wouldn't fit any other camera > well. This guy reveals nothing. Amazing how well camera repair people keep > their trade secrets! Better than the US govt can keep military secrets, > unfortunately...And they want to fry me for helping people! Ed Romney > > Mike wrote: > > > The mirror is NOT where the adjustment needs to be made. The TLR lenses of > > Mamiya are actually very good assuming they and the body are in good > > condition and haven't been dropped. > > Mike > > www.mfcrepair.com
Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001
From: David Grandy [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Med Format on a budget
Of the three cameras you mentioned I'd pick the C330. They were
discontinued only in the last few years. The S2A hasn't been around for
a long time and the Seagull is junk.
If you do buy a C330 (or its less featured little brother the C220)
you'll get a camera with sharp interchangeable leaf shutter lenses, as
well as an extremely well made body. The TLR Mamiya's were pretty
popular in their day so you should be able to find used (and reasonably
priced) lenses without a great deal of difficulty.
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001
From: [email protected] (David Grabowski)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Mamiya TLR question.
[email protected] (Keven Fedirko)
wrote:
>>> to go wrong inside them, much less to go wrong than in the 330 series. >>> The F ensures it's a slightly later design ( 1990ish vs possibly late >>> 70s ). And the 220s don't seem to get wrung out in pro use as strongly > >What is the difference between the "F" and "S" series? Vintage - which is >"newer" and are they still produced, or when was it discontinued...? > >k.
Sorry for the delay, been getting in some canoeing and fly fishing in
Maine.
More plastic in the S, it's also the latest design of Mamiya TLR, of
which the line was stopped in the late 90s ( 96, I believe ?). The Fs
are favorites of many Mamiya TLR shooters and precede the S, kind of
the compromise between plastic, weight and brightest view finder.
Later Fs have the improved back latching mechanism as well and the
later ( though plastic) single action waist level finder on both
220Fs and 330Fs, the same as on the S. The 330F has the same focus
lock as the S and RB 67 Pro S.
I love my Fs, owning both the 220 and 330 F bodies after several
standard models through the years, the 220F for some reason I am
especially partial to for personal shooting of scenics.
If you do a search you can look up Mamiya TLR in the medium format
review or overview or go to the Mamiya site ,then to the users forum
and find out more specifics about exact dates and such.
David Grabowski
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001
From: [email protected] (David Grabowski)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Mamiya TLR question.
"Leonard Evens" [email protected] wrote:
...
>I have a Mamiya TLR purchased some time in the late 60s. It has a C3 >label on the front. The shutter has to be cocked manually. How does >this fit in the series 220 - 330? I can't for the moment locate any >manual that came with it although I'm pretty sure I have it somewhere.
Well, it's older but all the cameras take the same photos with the
various lenses ( no gain or loss in image quality due to the body it
self, be that late or early design). I've heard of problems getting
the C3 serviced for parts supply is short. The C3 is also a tank by
comparison to say the 220F, the latter of which may well be the
lightest of the Mamiya TLR bodies and the C3 maybe the heviest if not
the standard 330. The price of a mint C3 will be about the same as a
standard 220, the functions not much different, though the advance was
a lesser design on the C3 as I recall ( could be wrong).
>I have an 80mm and 180 mm lens and a Porroflex viewfinder. The equipment >is not quite in mint condition, but it is probably pretty close. The >shutters probably need to be adjusted, although they do work now. > >I'm not sure if I want to keep this camera or not. (I have other >alternatives for medium format.) If I decide to sell it, approximately >what range of prices might be reasonable?
This is very dependant on those lenses, if they are early design
chrome lenses their value is low, the bodies value is around
$125-$200, even under $100 for a lesser condition body. Black lenses
would draw $125-$250 for the 80 and $400 or so for the 180. Chrome
lenses are less. Porrofinder to me is worth nothing ( too dark) but
they get $40 or so for them.
The sad truth is if you package the body and 80mm. together, it's
going to draw a low ball figure. Yet if you try to sell the body alone
I think it will be a hard sell, the 180 shouldn't be a problem to
sell.
Take a look at keh.com for comparison prices at the high end. Course
then again you never know what you might be able to get at ebay for
the equipment.
David Grabowksi
From: "Roland" [email protected]> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Getting into MF? Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 Vincent Becker [email protected]> wrote > > "Roland" [email protected]> a Tcrit... > > > > > > Why do you consider TLRs unsuitables for tripod use? I never had any > > > problem with my Mamiya. > > > > That's not what I wrote. > > > > I'm sorry I misunderstood you. Maybe I should work on my English harder! > > > > > I wonder if you can get polaroid backs for Mamiya TLRs. I can't see it > being > > possible since it would need an ordinary film back as well and it > wouldn't > > be linked to the winder. But then those backs *are* removeable but > I've no > > idea why. Maybe I should read the manual. I probably won't so perhaps > some > > kind poster could inform? > > > > Well, Mamiya TLRs don't have interchageable backs, at least not the C20. > My C220 back is far from removeable, except with a screwdriver ;-) The C3, C33 and C330 *do* have removeable backs. At least the "pro" versions do and I don't know if there are non-pro versions of the C3, C33 and C330. Some kind person will inform. The hinge has two rods you can push aside that will allow the back to come off. I read the manual (always a good idea if all else fails) and it says you can put on a single frame holder. I guess a polaroid back might have existed at some stage but not a normal film back. Maybe you take a polaroid shot to check you setup and then when you know it is OK you put the normal back back on and load a film as usual and take your shots.
From: "Robert E. Smith" [email protected]> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Mamiya C330 problem Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 R. Peters wrote: > > First thing I checked was the shutter and it's working fine. (That > was my first thought also...shutter not opening.) Also checked the > light trap and it seems to work fine. Heard the shutter "click" when > I pressed the shutter release. You can't fire the shutter with the > baffle in place. Checked that too. > > I can't help but wonder if somehow the last half of the roll (220) > didn't get developed when processed... Is there any way the lab could > have set the equipment for 120 film and messed up on this roll of 220? > > bob. > > [email protected] (R. Peters) wrote: > > >I ran a first roll of 220 film through a Mamiya C-330. The first > >(roughly) half the roll was fine, then I changed from the 80mm lens to > >a 65mm lens, which I used for the rest of the roll. From that point > >on, the film was blank. Nothing! > > > >I don't believe I had the light trap blocking the lens, and it doesn't > >seem to be slipping. Nor can I fire the shutter while the baffle is > >in place. And I didn't get multiple exposures on one frame. > > > >Could this be a film processing problem where they were set up for 120 > >film and somehow the last half of the roll didn't get processed? (The > >film was clear.) I'm really puzzled by this.... > > > > bob > > Try the lens _on the camera_. My C330f has a tendency to release the body interfaces prior to release of the shutter mechanism on some lenses. When this happens the winder is released and the shutter double-exposure preventer is activated just as if the shutter had been released. I have had some blanks before I realized this was happening. It occurs occasionally when I have been hand-holding, using the camera mounted (slide-switch) release, being too gentle on the release button(s) {cable?} With a test roll or a blank take-up reel in position, try the lens while placing the "multi" switch in "single" position. Slowly press the releases and observe the operation. It is just possible that your 65mm required a little more throw than the 80mm - just sufficient to "lock in" the film advance mechanisms. If this is the problem a steady full extension of the release will solve it. Also the above mentioned switch can be set to "muti" which will allow a retry at least. Other than this, the fault must be in the shutter although I have never experienced that. I also do the developing having found no reliable processors for med fmt so I cannot comment on that possibility. Truly, dr bob.
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleiflex From: Bob Shell [email protected]> To: [email protected]> > From: Richard Urmonas [email protected]> > Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Rollei] Rolleiflex > > While this story has been around for some time, I have trouble believing it. I have no trouble believing it. I was a consultant to Mamiya when they were going through the painful decision of whether or not to kill their TLR line. The problem was simple, the tooling was worn out, and they had to decide if they could justify the capital investment in new tooling on a product line with only small sales volume. Once the number crunching was done the decision was clear and the cameras were discontinued. I'm sure Mamiya was selling a dozen of their TLRs for every Rollei TLR sold. Bob
From: "Stefan Geysen" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Mamiya C220-Good student camera? Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 I have a C330 with eyelevel prism, L-grip and 55, 80, 135 and 180 Super lenses (all black versions). Bought the complete set (in a custom-sized Mamiya case) for about $780 a couple of months back, all mint). As long as you keep the sun from directly shining on the front lens element (use a good shade), the image quality of these lenses is simply outstanding (especially the 55 and 180). Very, VERY sharp and pleasing contrast and color rendition. Quite amazing for the price, really. I've owned a Hasselblad with 80mm Zeiss Planar CF lens, and the Mamiya 80mm seems to have at least equal sharpness over 90% of the image area, but runs a bit out of steam in the extreme corners. The L-grip greatly improves handling if you're shooting hand-held. I don't like the prism finder too much, impossible to get a decent view with glasses, and it's way too dark to use with the 55mm, with the 80mm it's not much better, no problems with the longer lenses though.
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:40:06 +0100 From: Siu Fai [email protected] To: [email protected] Subject: RE: [Rollei] Mamiya filter size > Siu : pardon me, but if you refer to Mamiya 220 and 330 TLRs, to the > best of my knowledge filter attachment is a metric thread. e.g.: for > the 80mm Mamiya TLR lens, filter thread is M46. Emmanual, You're absolutely right on this. The 55, 80 and 135mm lenses use M46 while the 65, 105(DS), 180(Super) and 250mm lenses use M49. What I meant by my previous post was to get a C220/C330 camera and a set of lenses (55mm, 80mm and 135mm), instead of finding converter lenses that does not excist or getting expensive Mutars. > Too bad that Heliopan has considered only an > odd-sized and hardly ever encountered 35.5mm for their bayo II step-up > ring. I wonder if this adapter can be used together with the Bay II lenshood... Siu Fai
From: [email protected] (Ladagency) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Date: 27 Jan 2002 Subject: Re: choice of camera for weddings After messing with upgrades, the C330 is an ideal wedding outfit: 1: bodies as cheap as extra backs 2: affordable lenses 3: quiet leaf shutter with no mirror slap 4: dependable 5: 120:200 switchability 6: comparable lightweight 7: , . . .
From rollei mailing list: Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 From: Mark Kronquist [email protected] Subject: [Rollei] Mamyia TLR Threads and a Source for Info and Stuff I have never been a fan of Mamiya TLR cameras while they had scads of features Rolleis lacked they seemed a rather inelegant solution. However a friend, Jake, who owns Blue Moon Camera and Machine, a NEW camera store dedicated to classic Cameras (and writing implements) has quite a sickness opps, sorry fondness for Mamiya TLRs and many cameras, lenses and accessories for them for sale and he certainly could chat for days about how great they are and how to use them and he would love to do so. Jake is at 503 978 0333 or [email protected]
From: "Mike" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Mamiya C330F question Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 When properly adjusted both the shutter and cocking lever should hit the end of the stroke at the same time. >From your description It sounds like the body is over cocking the shutter, not a good thing. Adjustment of the body cocking lever is made in the body, the adjustment for the shutter cocking lever is to bend it. Mike www.fridaycreekcamera.com > Anybody familiar with these? I've just bought one - looks hardly used just > one small niggling doubt in my mind. > > The film transport works smoothly with no lens present. When I fit any one > of the two lenses (Old but nearly mint chrome 105mm and Black 180mm Super) > The film wind on stiffens part way through winding to the next frame. It > looks as if when the shutter cocking lever on the lens reaches the end of > its travel the cocking lever on the body has a little way to go before it > returns. Once past this point film transport is again smooth and free. I'm > guessing that though these items are elderly they have been little used and > a small amount of wear through normal use will allow everthing to work > freely so I'm reluctant to remove any metal myself. > > Any accumulated wisdom out there please? > > Rod
From: Vincent Becker [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: mamiyaflex question Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 Martin wrote: > Does anyone here have any experience or knowledge of the mamiyaflex tlr? Every knowledge about Mamiya TLRs can be found on Graham Patterson's excellent website: http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/mfaq/m_faq.html Here is what he writes about lens compatibility: As a broad generality, all lenses will fit all bodies. But early bodies will not have focus, parallax, and exposure compensation scales for the focal lengths introduced later. The original 1/400th Seikosha-MX shuttered lenses and some Seikosha-S shuttered 180mm lenses will not fit C33 and later auto-cocking bodies. The problem with the MX series is that the lens cocking arm is located higher than on the later lenses, and the auto-cocking lever will not engage. It also fouls the lens lever for manual cocking.. Some lenses are known to fail to cock properly on later bodies. This appears to be due to the auto-cocking lever not moving the lens cocking lever quite far enough. At least one case has been recorded of the body cocking arm needing more travel than the lens shutter arm permits. -- Regards, Vincent Becker Photography and classic cameras: http://www.lumieresenboite.com/ (remove "pasdepub" to answer by mail)
From: "R.W. Behan" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Alternative Lens Caps for Mamiya TLR C330 Lens? Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 Kevin; There's chap in Florida who has lens caps by the trainload, at competitive prices. Try the email address below. His name is Bruce. [email protected] Good luck, R.W. Behan Lopez Island, Washington
From: [email protected] (KFritch) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Date: 03 Dec 2002 Subject: Re: "TLRs, Kowas, and Kievs" Oh my! I'm a big fan of the Mamiya C330 or C220 both of which you should be able to get in your price range for reasonable $$. The otics are excellent and they take a range of some 7 interchangeable lenses. They also have a wide range of other accessories which are commonly available on the used market. These were a professional grade medium format system widely used and there's a lot available at reasonable prices. Compared to other tlrs they are pretty hefty. As for the other fixed lens tlrs, I shoot Rollei. Yes, I know others can be "just as good" but why not use the standard by which others are compared? In your price range, you should be able to get a very nice Rolleiflex MX-EVS or better. You could also do an Autocord or Diacord for much less and both can give you excellent results. Yashica also made a decent tlr which has a large and vocal following but which can often be a tad overpriced. My tlr choices would be 1. Mamiya, 2. Rolleiflex , 3. Autocord, 4. Diacord (generally cheap for what it is which is the attraction) 5. Yashica MAT of some sort (good cameras, nice to use, but often unattractively priced). This list is highly subjective but based on my use of all of them.
From TLR mailing list: Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 From: [email protected] To: "[email protected]" [email protected] Subject: [TLR List] New to the list! Here's my TLR re-cap. I retired last year from photography after 30 years. Now I will do it purely for fun. I still have a complete Mamiya system that I would not part with for any money. It includes 3 C330f's, every lens they made, a prism finder, a working porrofinder, paramender and a whole lot of shades, caps and body caps. I used these mostly for studio work, set-ups and commercial stuff. I also have a complete matte box system for wedding work. What a joy this stuff is. I also used Rollei's but I hated them. Back in the day, when they were really inexpensive, we used to buy Yashicamats by the case as users and throwaways. That was for baby pictures and proms. Proms were a lot of work. You could easily go through two or three Yashicamats in a prom season with multiple set-ups and the constant grinding out of images. It was actually cheaper to use them in quantity rather than repair them. We'd cannibalize them for parts (finders, cranks, groundglass) and discard the rest. Who knew they'd be collector's items? - Bob Erdman
From camera fix mailing list: Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 From: "Jose Lopez" [email protected] Subject: Re: Bellows Replacement on a Mamiya C3 Hi Steve I've used a kind of thin but strong black cardboard which is the most similar to the original material I've found for the body of bellows. Inside I cover the cardboard with black umbrella cloth which is also similar to original bellows and outside I paint the cardboard with acrylic black paint with an airbrush to give a brilliant look and to waterproof the cardboard. I think the final result is very good. All this cost just a couple of dollars and an hour of work. Regards, Jose.
From: Graham Patterson [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: c330 uneven spacing of frames: how soon before it becomes problematic? Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 [email protected] wrote: > I think I posted that a couple of years ago. If I remember right, I read > that in the manual, but only after I had had it happen with a cable > release that did not retract correctly. This 'feature' is mostly a problem with the C330 chin release. The mechanism seems more sensitive than the frame release where the cable socket was mounted on the older bodies. It is not just an overlong release cable pin that can do this - a sticking chin release will do it too. This information is in most Mamiya C manuals, but it is not stressed very heavily as a potential danger. The other possible cause of odd frame spacing is not latching the back completly. This causes wide spacing, the opposite problem. Graham
From: [email protected] Subject: Re: c330 uneven spacing of frames: how soon before it becomes problematic? Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 dr bob [email protected] wrote: : "Rod" [email protected] wrote :> "redcat" [email protected] wrote :> > yes, i spoke with Mike. am surprised that it cost so less. i'll try that :> > repair out the moment overlaps occur. i also noticed that my exposure dial :> > was set somewhere between Single and Multi exposure accidentally. maybe : that :> > could be it. will know tomorrow when the roll comes back. :> > :> > thanks all for the advise! :> > sri :> > :> Are you using a cable release? A sticky cable release can cause a similar problem. :> :> Rod : The Mamiya manual does not cover this, but my C330f tends to skip frames if : the cable release mechanism sticks. I try to always remember to be sure the : cable release is fully retracted after use. There was a message in this : group, I think, years ago which addressed the shutter release artifact. I : remember someone stating that holding the front (cable) shutter release : partially depressed was the "recommended" method of reeling off a roll of : film when necessary. In my entire experience with this camera, I have had : to run off a roll only twice. They did not say who recommended this. : Truly, dr bob. I think I posted that a couple of years ago. If I remember right, I read that in the manual, but only after I had had it happen with a cable release that did not retract correctly. The reason given for that 'feature' was that at one time in Japan they sold 6 exposure rolls of 120 film, and that 'feature' allowed the user to wind the roll onto the takeup reel without having to 'shoot' the non-existant shots on the rest of the roll. Ray -- E. Ray Lemar [email protected]
From: "dr bob" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: c330 uneven spacing of frames: how soon before it becomes problematic? Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 "Rod" [email protected] wrote > > "redcat" [email protected] wrote > > yes, i spoke with Mike. am surprised that it cost so less. i'll try that > > repair out the moment overlaps occur. i also noticed that my exposure dial > > was set somewhere between Single and Multi exposure accidentally. maybe that > > could be it. will know tomorrow when the roll comes back. > > > > thanks all for the advise! > > sri > > > Are you using a cable release? A sticky cable release can cause a similar problem. > > Rod The Mamiya manual does not cover this, but my C330f tends to skip frames if the cable release mechanism sticks. I try to always remember to be sure the cable release is fully retracted after use. There was a message in this group, I think, years ago which addressed the shutter release artifact. I remember someone stating that holding the front (cable) shutter release partially depressed was the "recommended" method of reeling off a roll of film when necessary. In my entire experience with this camera, I have had to run off a roll only twice. They did not say who recommended this. Truly, dr bob.
From: [email protected] (KFritch) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Date: 10 Aug 2003 Subject: Re: Lense Cap for C330 Not quite right. The same size will generally fit the 180, 250 and 65mm lenses all of which take 49mm filters. The others generally take 46mm filters and will use the same size lens caps. I say generally, because there are some variations depending upon the age and manufacture of the lens. For instance, the 105m chrome takes a 40.5mm filter and uses a propotionally smaller lens cap.
From: "Roland" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: I did a dumb thing today... Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 "Dan" [email protected] wrote > ... I removed the focusing screen on my Mamiya C3 TLR for a good cleaning > and now for the life of me I can't seem to remember the order in which it > goes back (focusing screen first then glass plate or vise versa) and whether > they are facing in the right direction. (up/down). I still have the shims > and I know where they go but the focusing screen has me stumped. > > Can someone out there please help me fix my screw-up? > > Thanks > Dan No problem. I have just taken mine apart. The focussing screen goes below the glass plate with rough surface touching rough surface. If you scrape it with the back of your nail you will be able to tell the ground glass side of the glass plate and the fresnel ridges of the focussing screen. This are the two surfaces that touch each other. These are held in place by two brass brackets. The brass makes contact with the plastic fresnel screen (that you refer to as the focussing screen) and not the glass plate. Be very sure you have all the washers and spacers in place when you remount this on your camera. This is critical to accurate focussing and the lack of awareness of this is probably the source of the talked about "soft focus" of these cameras (in reality the standard lens should be extremely sharp if everything is correctly adjusted). These spacers tend to need to increase with time as the top of the lens housing gets pushed back usually because of the camera being dropped. It nearly always lands on the viewing lens through Sod's law and pushes the viewing lens further back and so the focussing screen needs to be raised, and even angled, to compensate. This is done with washers and spacers. The rest you know how to do but if you hit a problem then email me. Roland Postscript: Also I noticed there is a faint line across the plastic fresnel screen thingie about a quarter the way in. You need to orientate this so that the line is to the front of the camera. It is a guide for doing close-up work telling you that the image you are taking will be lower because the lenses are not at the same level.
From: Stacey [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Focus tips for C330? Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 Jordan Wosnick wrote: > Have to concur with Stacey's suggestions here. I had a C220 and had a > very hard time getting sharp images. It turned out to be the case that > the ground glass viewing screen was installed at an angle and so the > apparent "focus points" varied over the area of the screen. As Stacey > suggests, a cheap way to check the focussing accuracy is the "newsprint" > test -- tape newsprint to the wall (financial listings work well!), > focus very carefully on it, take pictures at various apertures and > develop. No need to print the negs, just use a lightbox and loupe. If > the image of the newsprint lettering gets sharper and sharper as the > lens is stopped down, even beyond f/8 or so, you may well have a focus > screen problem. I saw this exact problem and, in the end, ended up > selling my C220 to someone more willing to deal with the problem than me. Another test is to place playing cards at different distances from the camera (start about 2 feet and place an inch or two between them) and focus on the middle one. See which one is in focus on film with the lens wide open. Some cameras are easy to adjust the focus screen, some aren't. -- Stacey
From: [email protected] (Richard Cochran) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: MF system selection Date: 22 Oct 2003 [email protected] (Serge Korolev) wrote > > - Since I prefer to shoot more landscapes and travel pictures, I > would prefer a light-weight portable system suitable for hiking. > > - That would be great to have at least 6x6 > > - Clear focusing screen (AF is not of importance), possibly a good > build-in meter (or I'll buy a separate one if the deal will call for > it). Long-focus lenses choice is not important, up to 180 in 35mm > equivalent should cover all my needs. > > - In case if buying a camera used, a good choice of accessories and > lenses still existing on the market would be an advantage (that should > eliminate real dinosaurs). The Mamiya TLR system comes pretty close to what you want. While a single camera with a single lens is pretty big and bulky, the lenses themselves are small and light, since they don't have focusing helicoids, nor are they particularly fast. A kit consisting of a body and three lenses is pretty lightweight and small compared to a similar kit in most SLR systems. The TLR system has no moving mirror, so it performs very well handheld and is very quiet. A body and three lenses in clean working condition should cost less than $1000 easily. As has been pointed out, a "180mm equivalent" lens will be over 300mm long and will be huge and expensive in any system. It's not available in the Mamiya TLR system; the longest lens is 250mm. The Mamiya system is almost a dinosaur. New accessories and lenses aren't being made, but used ones are readily available. Lens caps are hard to find, though (someone could make a lot of money by manufacturing Mamiya TLR caps). If you only wanted a single lens, a Hasselblad would be nice. The body is compact; of course it's well supported with every imaginable accessory currently available, it works well handheld. Used bodies and backs are relatively affordable. But lenses are frightfully expensive, and mostly big and heavy, as well. --Rich
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