MAMIYA C220 Twin Lens Reflex Camera
Photo thanks to David Stuckman - [email protected]
Index:
Photo notes:
Related Local Links:
Medium Format Home Page
Medium Format Cameras List Page
Related Links:
Jan-Jaap's Online Manuals and Resources for C220/C330
Mamiya C220 camera with 55mm 4.5 lens this camera and lens are in great working order. This is a good camera for somone who is looking to go into medium format without spending thousands of dollars and still get excellent results.The Mamiya cameras have interchangeable lenses and accessories. The 55mm lens is the most expensive of the TLR lenses and the hardest to find used.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (John)
[1] Re: Mamiya C220 Lens Cleaning
Date: Sun May 03 17:28:29 CDT 1998
"Catch-it" [email protected] wrote:
> Hiya, > I have a c220 80mm 2.8 lens and would like to clean it. Anybody got any > ideas how I can get the bugger apart? > > Regards > Catchy
Front lens cell units simply unscrew from the shutter; you'll need a lens
spanner (see ads in back of shutterbug) if the lock rings in the rear
won't move to get to the back units. I think that once the camera mounting
plate is removed, the rear cell will just unscrew from the shutter.
Be VERY sure to put taking lens and viewing lens cells back in the same
places they came from.
I would definitely not disassemble any further...send it to a pro like
Steve Grimes. Far more image degradation would result from misaligned
reassembly than any specks on the innermost surfaces possibly could cause,
and if it's fungus there's not much you can do....John
From: Gene Crumpler [email protected]
Subject: Response to Dismouting/cleaning focus screen on C220
Date: 1998-06-08
I recently removed the screen on my c33 and man it was a mess getting it
back together(there must have been 15 shims). I suggest that you clean it
in place or have a pro do it.
From: Mark Hubbard [email protected]
Subject: Response to C220 pros/cons
Date: 1998-07-16
A used C330 body in excellent condition sells for about $250 to $350 and sometimes less. A C330F body goes for about $375- $525. The newest C330S body goes for $600 - $800 in like-new condition. The main reason to consider a 220 or earlier would be if you could purchase one for considerably less than $250 -- yet most people want as much for a 220 or 220F as they do for a C330; otherwise, you are better off with one of the C330's which will hold their resale value better.
Why is the "F" worth $100 - $200 more than the plain C330? Besides being a younger camera, it also has a MUCH better waist level finder that forms a "chimney" without gaps, and it closes with one hand in much the same way as the best Rolleiflex finders. (On the older C330, the finder has three independent flaps that must be folded in like a box top; they also have a large gap at the top so they do not form a closed chimney.) There are other less important improvements, but the better finder and the fact that it's built like a tank make the C330F very desirable.
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Han Verhulst [email protected]
Subject: Response to C220 pros/cons
Date: 1998-12-01
As far as history of the '3' series against the '2' series is
concerned: the C33 is the best made of the Mamiya series, but it has
an awkward way of cocking the shutter (first crank forward, and then
reverse). It also is (by far) the heaviest of the lot. The C220 was
built as a much lighter economy model (no shutter cocking, no parallax
indicator etc.), but it still is RUGGED. They only use plastic where
plastic would make no difference (so not like SLR's today where they
even make the bayonet mount out of plastic!).
The C330 (and the f), apart from getting rid of the funny shutter
cocking, got rid of almost a pound of weight too. Apart from the
finder, the main difference between the f and the non-f is a focus
lock, which you'll hardly ever use.
I never understood the step from 'f' to 's': back then it meant
loosing a few more ounces and paying almost twice the price (i'm
talking back then -- i bought my C330f new for $370, but when the
C330s came out a few years later it was priced at more than $700 --
and it is in no way 'better'!).
If weight is a consideration, go for the C220 (with or without the f,
the only difference here being the focus lock and quite a few $$).
If you want to do a lot with the camera, get the C330(f): is has
auto-shutter cocking (except with the 250mm), replaceable screens (i
always use a grid), a transport handle like the Rollei and in general
it's got a better 'feel' (more rugged, even if the C220 is just as).
Get an L-grip in both cases, as i find it keeps my left hand free from
the bellows, and gives a steadier hold all over.
Greetings, Han
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999
From: Terry Favre [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: C220 & C330
I just wanted to let you know that we carry parts and whatnot for both of
these cameras, We also repair C220 & C330 of all modes.� We have also
repaired LOTS of stuff for B & H !!!� if your looking for various lenses
or ground glass or tech support give us a call Call Tom at Associated
Camera Repair - Mesa, Az. (480) 668-0915 of send me a E-Mail!!!!��
�
Terry...............
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: LoveThePenguin [email protected]
[1] Re: Looking for the First cheap Medium-Format
Date: Wed Aug 11 08:29:36 CDT 1999
I've recently picked up an old Mamiya C220 with 80mm 2.8 lens for
$100. It needed re-foamed, so that we another $32. And with
interchangable lenses, it's usable, expandable, and best of all very
resellable in component or system form. Plus, the lenses are pretty
sharp.
I've been picking up some extras and will have an extra body & lens
(maybe morethan one) next week.
Date: 13 Apr 2000
From: [email protected] (Darrell A. Larose)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Mamiya C220
"chilihed" ([email protected]) writes:
> Hi Group, > I just purchased an old Mamiya C220, I haven't received it yet but have been > told > this old beast is in "mint" condition. > Anyhow, I managed to dig up photocopies of the manual off the net (LOVE THE > NET!) > Anyone here ever use or have any experience with the 220? Could you possibly > pass > on any tips to me (be kind...) I have had no experience with medium format > except > pricing them a few years ago before buying my T90. > > One last question, I have a Canon TL300 flash, would this be compatible with > the 220? > I would really love to find an old bulb unit to use with this but where I am > situated the > chances are slim.
Why a bulb unit? The Mamiya C220 was normally used with flash, I bought
my first one new in 1976, and I used a Honeywell 892S flash with it.
I had used them in photo school (1974-76) and had always used strobes.
The Mamiya TLR cameras started production in the 1950's but the very first
interchangable lens Mamiya Flex was introduced in 1957, with the Mamiya C2
was introduced in 1958 (Earlier TLR Mamiyas were similar to Rolleiflexes)
The C-2, was joined with the C-3 in 1962. These grew to become the C-33
in 1962, and the C-22 in 1963. The C-220 was introduced in 1968, and the
C-330 in 1969. The C-330f (and the C-220f) in 1982. I can't remember when
Mamiya dropped the C, probably in arount 1990.
http://www.mamiya.com is a fairly good site
[Ed. note: thanks to David Grabowski for sharing these notes!]
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001
From: [email protected] (David Grabowski)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Mamiya 220F/330F considerations
[email protected] (Joe B.)
wrote:
>I'm trying to weigh up whether it would make any sense to get a 220F
>instead of a 330F, since at least in my neck of the woods (UK) they
>can be considerably cheaper. I've read the specifications and the 220F
>sounds like I could use it and the lighter weight is a particular plus
>for me, but apparently it has only a knob for winding on with, and
>this has me wondering. I am used to cocking shutters since I use
>several classic cameras, but I am wondering whether the combination of
>having to cock the shutter and having to make do with knob wind could
>add up to a frustrating experience with constant thoughts of "Dammit I
>could be using a 330F instead"! Can anyone relate their experience of
>using either of these two models to give me an idea of what it feels
>like subjectively? Particularly, is the knob wind of the 220F
>irritating, or anything like that? Any advantages of using the 330F
>that may not be immediately obvious from looking at their relative
>specifications? TIA for any info.
It's funny you should mention this but I own the 220F and the 330F and
have owned other Mamiya TLRs through the years. I've recently been
considering various models of 645 but weighing the two bodies against
one another, I find myself bogged as to which would be the first to
go on trade or sale should I make the 645 plunge.
I love my 220F, I like the knob very much and actually like it a bit
better than the cranks. I much prefer this body for personal use in
scenic shooting and bang around shooting and also keep this body as
well as use it in wedding coverage. That knob ratchets, you don't have
to make a continuous sweep but can ratchet it if so desired. The 220 F
is so simple it's utterly reliable, nothing to go wrong really.It is
lacking features though: If you use long lenses and need to rack out
quite a bit, the 330s have a compensator indicator in the viewer that
serves to help create a new top of frame for the racked lens and more
specifically indicates bellows factor for you to alter exposure with.
Then of coarse there is the auto cocking. The down side to all this is
more things to go wrong and to remember changing dial settings for the
various lens lengths. With 220s you have to wing it a bit more but if
you stick with normal lenses or wide lenses this matters very little
and in time you learn to deal with longer lenses as well, maybe
putting in a tick mark inside the viewer as a lining up spot for a
particular lens regarding a stop extra exposure and or top of frame.
One last little mentioned feature of the 330F that the older 330
bodies don't have , nor the 220F is the focus lock. If you are
shooting a studio setup with one lens, you can set this and forget it
not worrying if you knocked the rack out of focus a bit. Not a biggy
but there non the less.
Each body has it's own charm for me, the added features of the 330F
are a plus for wedding shooting for sure or even for family portrait
sessions with longer lenses. The 220F is just as capable of taking the
same images, no gain or loss in that respect but it's simplicity is
actually its draw to me. Also when looking in the used market, the
220Fs are likely to be less beat up, the 330s tend to see heavier pro
use IMO.
When I go out the door for personal shooting, I take one of three
cameras with me; the 220F with a normal lens, the Rolleiflex Automat
with Tessar 3.5 or an older Konica 35mm. rangefinder with 40mm. 2.8
Hexanon. Out of thousands of dollars worth of equipment at hand, it
comes down to the simplest of setups and a hand held meter .
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001
From: "Siu Fai" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Mamiya 220F/330F considerations
They removed the fold-out crank when they "up-graded" the C220 to C220F.
Siu Fai
...
From: Simon Freidin [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: ever replace light seals ? Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 I did this on a C220. I scraped off the old seal using a cotton bud, then acetone on another cotton bud removed the old glue and last traces of seal. I got self-adhesive seal (imported from Japan, it won't deteriorate) from a camera repairer. 3/32 thick for the piece near the hinge (3/8 x 2 15/16), 1/32 thick for the other 3 edges of the back. I needed to cut strips about 3/32 wide for these edges. I used a non-slip steel rule and a utility knife. I found it helped to remove the latch cover on the inside of the back, but the screws holding it were 'glued' in by the non-reflective paint, so it was tough to remove. I ended up burring one of the screw heads :-( regards Simon r.m.pruitt wrote: I have a Mamiya C33 TLR that needs the light seals replaced in the > back. I > have checked with various repair shops and they charge from $15.00 to > $45.00 > to do this. I have just found a source for the seal and adhesive at > [email protected] for $4.95 and would prefer to do the job myself > if it > does not require a pro. It seems a simple enough procedure. Has > anybody ever > did this and do they have any advice that might make the job easier > (assuming it is not a pro job for some reason) ? Thanks for any info > on > this, Richard
From Rollei Mailing List: Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 From: "Fox, Robert" [email protected] Subject: [Rollei] RE: Was Heresy: yashica TLR, now Mamiya Thanks Philippe, I really like using the C220. Yes, it feels a lot heavier than my R-T, and is also physically larger, but it is very easy to use handheld because of its size and weight. The screen is dimmer than the R-T, but that's about the only thing that I would change. It's also nice to be able to use 120/220 film, and doing multiple exposures is easy. The Mamiyas are solidly built -- no question about that. The film winding is smooth and precise, and I have never had any registration problems ever -- it always works right. The neatest part of the Mamiyas is the full bellows, which makes 1:1 mag. possible. I also like the film loading better than the Rolleis, since the film is always flat and goes from straight off the spool. Now I'm trying to save some money for the 180 Super, which everyone raves about. I also have an accessory large rubber wheel that mounts onto either focusing wheel, which makes focusing super fast -- I would recommend getting one if you can find it. R.J. -----Original Message----- From: Philippe Tempel [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 To: [email protected] Subject: RE: [Rollei] Heresy: asking advice for a yashica TLR Robert, I didn't know you had a C220. How do you like it so far? How is it to travel (or just walk around town) with? I'm spoiled by the light 2lb 'Cords. Having the Mamiya interchangable lenses are compelling, though. I like your photo above. Was this the one you showed me after I posted a similar one on photo.net? I'll have to peruse your work again.
From: "Siu Fai" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Mamiya C3 parallax compensation Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 > My Mamiya C3 has a pair of parallax compensation lines scribed toward the > top of the groundglass. Anyone know what distances they're for? I don't have a C3 but these lines are are also included on the screen of the C220. On this camera you have a exposure compensation scale on the distance scale. The parallax compensation line can be used to estimate parrallax when the distance falls within one of these exposure compensation parts. It's described here: http://www.photonet.demon.nl/mamiya/c220/images/handl16.jpg Siu Fai
From: "Rod" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: mamiya c220 professional - any good? Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 beancounter [email protected] wrote > thanx for the info...what are the main > differences i would notice, shooting > w/a "medium format" camera (as the > mamiya is..i think??) as compared to > shooting my nikon digital, or my cannon > 35mm camera...i know the negative is larger.. > do i get better prints?..or, should i say > better quality prints?.. If you use slide film those images will sing like no slides you've ever seen. You can routinely make high quality 20 x 16 prints. If your style and subjects are suitable for a tlr and you are looking for high quality images then the Mamiya C*** cameras probably offer you more bang for your bucks than almost any other system around. I use a black 55mm, a chrome 105mm and a black 'Super' 180mm. They are all good and cheap on ebay. I've tried cropping images from my RB67 down to 6 x 6 and mixing them with the slides from the tlr - it's impossible to see any diference just by simple visual examination. see http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/mfaq/m_faq-mamiya.html for more info. Rod
From: "McLeod" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: mamiya c220 professional - any good? Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 I had the C330 and loved it. Their reputation is excellent. The lenses are indistinguishable from any Zeiss optics I have used. The best accessory I had was the hand grip and prism viewfinder (don't get the porrofinder unless you can't afford the prism) because you can view the image corrected and you can hold the camera at eye level. For the type of stuff I did I needed a SLR so I had to sell my system and have regretted it ever since.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format From: "dr bob" [email protected] [1] Re: Mamiya C2: how good is it? Date: Fri Dec 06 2002 Remember, the C-series Mamiya TLRs have an internal bellows for the taking lens and an external bellows covering everything. Check both, but it would have to be a bad leak to get to the film. A better possibility for problems with this camera is the back. There are a number of conditions which can cause consternation. Just make sure you get a return police in writing then insure everything works properly. Its worth a roll of film just to try it. Truly, dr bob.
From: Leonard Evens [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Mamiya C2: how good is it? Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 [email protected] wrote: > There's one for auction on eBay, and it looks in good condition. How > much is a good-condition C2 worth? Would it be better than a > Yashicamat-A in similar condition? > wumhenry I have a C2, which I haven't used recently, but it seems in reasonable condition. The shutters probably need adjustment, but otherwise, the camera seems in fine shape after over 30 years. Like the other Mamiyas, this is a real work horse but very heavy. Still I've taken lots of handheld pictures with it. Unlike the newer Mamiyaflexes, you have to cock the shutter each time; it doesn't get done automatically when you advance the film. I also had a Ricoh at one point, but I had upgraded to a Rollei and stopped using it. That was also over 30 years ago. I don't remember exactly what happened to the Ricoh, but I suspect the shutter jammed and rather than trying to get it fixed I abandoned it. The main problems with these old camera should be shutter problems. It should be actually easier to fix a Mamiya shutter because it isn't necessary to take the camera apart. Also the Mamiya cameras allow lens interchanges and the lenses are generally quite good. Other things being equal, I would definitely go with the C2. -- Leonard Evens [email protected]
From: Tim Daneliuk [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Mamiya C 220 - C 330 Date: 14 Dec 2002 Jan T wrote: > Hello! > > some weeks ago a photographer presented us a very nice portfolio of B&W > prints, all of them taken with a Mamiya C 330. The pictures looked great to > me - I'm only a familiar with 35mm - and he claimed this camera's optical > qualities are not inferior to those of more sophisticated or more popular > 'one eye' systems. > > - Apart from the difference in operation, can this camera indeed compete > with e.g. Bronica, Hasselblad,... ? If you know what you're doing, all the above will provide wonderful results. (I've owned many different MF Mamiyas and Hasselblads). In the end, the Hassy lenses *are* better, but you are paying many times (5-10x) what a similar Mamiya C lens would cost. The very last production (black) C lenses were very good indeed and will give you terrific results. > - What are the main differeces between the C 330 S and C 330 F? > - The C 220 has a similar 'look', but how does it compare to the C 330's? IMHO, if you have a choice, go for the C220 assuming it is in good shape. The 330 autmatically cocks the shutter when you wind the film, whereas you'll have to do it manually on the 220, but ... the 220 is noticeably lighter. I continue to recommend the C cameras for people putting their toes in MF waters. Assuming you get one in good condition, they are an inexpensive way to get started. Lenses, bodies, and accessories are abundant. -- Tim Daneliuk [email protected]
From: "McLeod" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Mamiya C 220 - C 330 Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 I use Hasselblads at work every day and the huge prints I made from my C330 with an 80mm lens were indistinguishable from the Hasselblad prints. The contrast was great and the resolution and sharpness incredible. I think this system is one of the most underrated medium format systems around and my older Bronica MC lenses are shamed by the Mamiya's. If you are thinking about buying one you might as well spend a little bit more and get the C330 Professional S, the last model made. It autococks when you wind it and has a parallax correction indicator. I found it easier to handle with an accessory handgrip and the prism finder as well. "Jan T" [email protected] wrote > Hello! > > some weeks ago a photographer presented us a very nice portfolio of B&W > prints, all of them taken with a Mamiya C 330. The pictures looked great to > me - I'm only a familiar with 35mm - and he claimed this camera's optical > qualities are not inferior to those of more sophisticated or more popular > 'one eye' systems. > > - Apart from the difference in operation, can this camera indeed compete > with e.g. Bronica, Hasselblad,... ? > - What are the main differeces between the C 330 S and C 330 F? > - The C 220 has a similar 'look', but how does it compare to the C 330's? > > Thanks for your comments. > > Jan
From: "Arno Daalder" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Mamiya C 220 - C 330 Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 Hallo Jan, I bought a C-330 yesterday, so I can not commend yet on its performance. Maybe after tomorrow. According to the brochure of the C-330 and C-220, the main differences are: 330: Shutter cocks automatically when you wind the film. 220: Wind and cocks seperately. 330: Two release buttons (one for an extra grip: very handy!) 220: One release button. 330: 6 interchangeble viewing screens. 220: 1 fixed one. 330: automatic paralax indicator (looks really good). 220: not automatic. 330: Distance scale for all 7 lenses apart 220: Distance scale by graphics 330: Automatic indicator for shutterspeed correction (with close-up) 220: indicated by graphics. 330: Changeble camera back 220: fixed camera back. 330: weighs 1700 grams 220: weighs 1400 grams That's why I choose the 330 over the 220. I am very happy with it so far and also impressed by the way it feels and works. I am confident that this (330/220) is a great camera and I am sure that it will serve for me years to come. Here is a site with some information on the C-types: http://www.photonet.demon.nl/mamiya/mamiya.html Hope this is of any help. Arno ...