HASSELBLAD 500CM 6x6 SLR MF CAMERA
Photo Courtesy of Donald Gilbert Cope II
Stelrxr Metalworks - Athens, GA - 706.548.9349
[email protected]
Related Links:
Hasselblad 500C/EL New Users Guide
(by Lance Karp, Mr500cm)
Hasselblad Lenses
Hasselblads on a Budget
Testing Cameras and Lenses
This article is written to help you purchase a camera, lens and magazine.
Since so many photographers are looking to step up to the Hasselblad
system, my goal is to make you more familiar with the camera. Here are
things to look for and points to check. If done properly, you can save
yourself a lot of headaches.
The body:
The main bodies are the 500C and 500CM (even though this is not
a how to use article, the same applies for the 501 and 503 series) and
there are a lot of them out there. First examine the body without the lens
or magazine on. Now, the main difference between the 500C and 500CM is
with the 500CM "you" can change the focussing screen.
Now there are a few
500C's that are actually CM's.
To check, remove the waist level
finder and look at the screen. If you see four screws, one in each corner
of the screen, you have a "C". If you see two tiny levers, one on the right
and the other on the left, you can change the screen.
Most photographers
use one screen, so if your buying a 500C and you don't like the screen
that's installed, any good repairman can change it. The screen should
be clean without any major marks. Cleaning marks are common only when
somebody tries to clean it and does not know what they are doing.
Check for
dents, dings and brassing on the back rails. Brassing on the back rails
where the magazine meets the body is common, nicks and rough edges show
hard use.
Next check the rear shutter. Press the shutter release and
watch the shutter open and close. Do this several times. It should open
fully and crisply, then return to its fully closed position. If the
rear shutter seems mushy or sluggish, chances are it needs some work. Lack
of use causes this, followed by age. This is not a bad thing, or it is if
you are paying top dollar. This problem can be easily repaired.
Next check
the mirror. It should be clean and free of marks. Slight marks on the
bottom edge are common only when the foam in the body dries out. Another
sign of age and lack of maintenance are slight dry squeaks when you
advance the camera. 500C bodies are a really good value, and many are still
in use. Don't count them out, many pros still use them as main or backup
bodies. If you are on a budget then go with the 500C and save a few $$$'s.
If the body you are buying has any problems then be sure to take the
price of
the service off the price of the camera. A camera serviced by a good
repairman will last a long time.
EL/ELM bodies:
These bodies are basically overgrown 500 cameras with motor
drives. You check them the same way as you would a 500 camera but be sure
to listen to the motor for squeaks, squeals and other noises. It should
run smooth and crisp.
Run the camera for a while. The camera should not
blow fuses. A camera that blows fuses needs to be checked out by a
repairman.
Be sure to check the batteries. The biggest problem with the
ni-cad batteries is over-charging them. After a while, they begin to swell
and loose capacity. There was a problem with battery supply, but not
anymore. The batteries are not cheap, that's why the new generation uses
AA batteries. EL's are at an all time low in price and make great remote
and tripod cameras. A good body with a battery and charger will be in the
mid $400.00 area.
Lenses:
Checking a "C" or "CF" lens is the same. First check the overall
appearance of the lens. Scuff marks on the barrel means that the lens was
used. Dings and dents mean that it might have seen some rough times. Next
check the glass for scratches. Light cleaning marks are common on Zeiss
optics due to their soft coating. They look like hairs and generally do
not have any effect on the performance of the lens. Next check for nicks
and scratches.
I would beware of any scratches on the rear elements, since
they usually have an effect on the lenses performance. Unless it's a
tiny nick at the edge of the glass, shoot a roll of film and then examine
them with a good loupe.
Next, look through the lens, look carefully and
look at an angle. The optics should be clear, no hazing. Two things to
look for especially in older lenses are fungus and separation.
First
fungus. Fungus looks almost like a tiny spider's web inside the lens with a
slight haze. Fungus in its early stages can be cleaned without hurting
the glass, and future images will be fine. After a while, fungus will etch
itself into the glass making a $2000.00 lens useless.
Separation looks
almost like a water drop in between the glass. It usually starts at the
edge and spreads. A lens with minor separation is still useful but will
require major optical work in the future. Again, this is not cheap so
think about that when buying a lens with separation.
Next check the
shutter (this must be done on the body). The shutter should be crisp and
low speeds should not drag. The aperture blades should snap into position.
If they drag or the shutter seems sluggish, it's time for a cleaning.
An often over looked item is the PC outlet. Be sure to check for flash synch.
Flash contacts wear out and need to be replaced. Next check the focussing
ring, make sure in moves freely and evenly. They sometimes get stiff and
need to be cleaned and re-greased.
I'm not going to get into which lens
should I buy a "C" or "CF". Do your homework and you'll know which is
right for you. I will say this, I've seen mint "C" lenses that were
dead when I put them on a camera. These lenses were seldom used. Age and
lack of use took its toll. With a good cleaning they can be back in
service, but be sure to remember that services costs $$$'s.
The shutters in both lenses are as good as they come. They can be rebuilt and
function like new. In all my years, I only knew one guy who needed a new
shutter, and his lens fell in the ocean! There are plenty of good deals out
there, take some time and make sure you are not buying somebody's headache.
Magazines:
First check to make sure the insert and shell both have the
same serial number. They are matched at the factory. Sometimes they get
mismatched, and it lowers the value.
Next run the back on the body and
advance the counter till the end. Now remove the insert from the shell and
watch the counter reset. It should be swift. If the counter sticks or is
sluggish service is needed.
Now remove the dark slide from the body and
check for light leaks. Light traps wear out with use and age and need to
be replaced. If you see light coming through the area where the dark slide
goes into, then the light trap needs replacing. Whenever possible run a
roll of film through the magazine. By doing this, it allows you to check
for light leaks and spacing problems. Over-lapping is a common problem.
Again, these problems can all be corrected.
The myth is that professionals beat their cameras to death. We do use our
cameras, but since we make our livings with them, so we keep them in top
shape.
When buying a camera, if you spot a problem, let the seller know
and work out a price reduction. Cosmetics blemishes do not effect the
performance of a camera, only its value. I would buy a lens that has scuff
marks on the barrel as long as the optics were clean.
Dents are another
story. I would want to make sure that the lens was still aligned. I will
say this, I've seen a lens that was dropped and dented, sent to the
factory to be checked out, only to be told everything's fine!
Hasselblad's are tanks. As long as they are serviced every few years,
they'll last a lifetime. Look at what you are buying and know what you are
getting into.
If you have any questions, you can e-mail me and I'll help you if I can
Lance Karp
Received: Sat, 26 Sep 1998
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