Since 1960 I've owned and/or used all of the 500 bodies that you listed. I was away from MF for awhile and re-entered last year. I currently have a 503CW and 203FE. The 503CW seems to be the best mechanical Hasselblad I have ever owned and used.

I personally believe that the 203FE is the best Hasselblad ever made. It is a joy to use. It seems to master any situation with ease. Even though I use external meters most of the time, I had an occasion to use the built-in 203 meter a couple of weeks ago, for four days. Everything was perfectly exposed and I use Fuji Velvia, which does not have much latitude. Photographing into the sun, away from the sun, dense shade, sunrise, sunset, rain, every imaginable situation, and it did not let me down even once. I'm duly impressed. I now know that I can strongly rely on the 203 TTL meter when I need to.

Jim

[Ed. note: some counterpoints...]
From Contax Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000
From: "rlb" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] 645 concept/marketing

Of course we all have different opinions, likes and dislikes. I have experience with all of the cameras that you mention in your post. I currently have a Contax 645, a Rollei 6008 for which I traded my Hasselblad 503 for. I still own a Hasselblad 903SWC. I love the Contax auto-focus sytem and I love the lenses. However, take away the auto-focus function and the camera would be difficult to sell, in my opinion. It is good, it is reliable and it makes beautiful negatives. I love it.

Onto the 200 series Hasselblad. Lets see, if you want a metering system with only a 20% metering area choose the 203FE, body $5600. If you want a spot meter, choose the 205FCC, body $7300. But I wanted both....not available. This is why I went to the Rollei 6008; multi-zone metering, multi-spot averaging and spot metering, motor built-in, 3 auto exposure choices, bracketing, TTL and on and on and on and it is built like a Hummer.

Your choice, Zeiss or Schneider lenses. How much? $4400 gets you body,finder/80mm/back/handgrip/motor/battery/charger and your choice of another body or a back. This is, in my opinion the finest 6x6 on the market. I do not miss my Hassy stuff at all.

Now, if I could only have one system which would it be? The Contax would win solely because of the auto-focus. Take that away and it would be the Rollei hands down. I am glad that I don't have to make a choice.

Bob

From Contax Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000
From: george day [email protected]
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] 645 concept/marketing

Correction! $4,400 gets you TWO bodies, with the rebate (it's still on, right?) and a three year warranty, vs. a one year warranty. Rollei is a good value, Contax 645 is a good value. Blad 200 series is a doctor/lawyer toy (no offense to you docs and lawyers out there).

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 503CW Vs 202/203

[email protected] writes:

I am thinking of getting a Hassy. Two models come to my mind 503CW + Meter finder or 202FA/203. I plan to use it mainly outdoor for landscape and occasionally portraiture. Any comment regarding the two in terms of quality, ease of use and cost? Is FE lens more expensive than CF lens?

Arthur-

This is the same choice I was faced with about a year ago. I went for the 203, and have never regretted it. The way I looked at it was as follows:

203: "Pro"

* Does everything 503CW does (winder option, OTF flash, high-speed flash sync with C/CF/... lenses)

* Provides option of TTL metering & hi-speed focal plane shutter, long duration time exposures (to 34 minutes), ease of exposure compensation (with "arrows" on LH side)

* The FE lenses... particularly the 110 F2

203: "Con"

* Price (figure an extra $3800 for the body!... over a 503CW)

* Carry an extra battery (although it can work like a 503 without one)

In a nut shell, this was the logic that drove me. It was a big gulp to spend all of that extra money for the body... but I'm glad I did now. I kept my old 500CM for 25 years; I'll probably keep this one as long.

Go out and try (or rent) both. See if one feels more "natural" than the other to you. Both cameras are superb picture taking instruments.

David Gerhardt

From Contax Mailing List:
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000
From: "Bob Shell" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [CONTAX] 645 flash

They looked really good. I still have files of images shot in the early 70s with 40, 80 and 150 Nikkors on a Bronica S2A. The longer Nikkors from that era are much in demand since people have them converted for use on Hasselblad 2000 and 200 series cameras.

Bob

From: John Sparks [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 12 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Different between 202 FA and 203 FE

Terry Sham [email protected] wrote:

>I would like to know the difference between the Hasselblad 202 FA and 203
>FE? I only know the difference is their price and the maxium shutter speed.

The biggest difference is that the 202 can only use the focal plane shutter. You can mount at least the latest leaf shutter lenses (don't know about earlier lenses), but you have to use them in the F mode to keep the leaf shutter open so they operate just like the F/FE lenses. I don't know if you can mount all leaf shutter lenses or only the latest. The 203 lets you use the leaf shutter just like in a C body. There may be other differences as well (don't know).

John Sparks

From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Different between 202 FA and 203 FE

Terry Sham wrote:

> I would like to know the difference between the Hasselblad 202 FA and 203
> FE? I only know the difference is their price and the maxium shutter speed.

The shutterspeeds can be set manually on the 203 FE camera using the shutterspeed-ring. The 202 FA does not have this ring, so all settings are made electronically.

Manual setting of the shutterspeed on the 202 FA is basically done by adjusting the automatically selected shutterspeed by applying an exposure correction. There is a ML-mode on the 202 FA, that allows to lock a automatically selected shutterspeed, giving a sort of manual "shutter priority mode".

This may not be a great deal, but it means that the 202FA camera lacks the shutterspeed-ring C-setting, which means that : When using lens-shutter lenses (CF, CFi/CFE) on the 203 FE camera, the exposure can be made either using the leafshutter in the lens *or* using the focal-plane shutter in the camera. This means you can get flash-synch speeds upto 1/500th of a second.

On the 202 FA, *only* the focal plane shutter can be used with these lenses too. This limits flash-synch to 1/90th of a second or longer. The lens shutter in CF and CFi/CFE lenses must be switched off by setting the lens to F-mode. CB and the older C lenses can not be used on the 202 FA. They can be used on the 203 FE, but you must use the leaf-shutter for exposure. (By the way, Hasselblad advises against using C lenses on all focal-plane shutter cameras though, saying that these C lenses are too old to be precise enough to synchronise properly with the focal-plane shutter.

Funny how they work fine using 2000-series cameras and their focal-plane shutters... And early factory promo's showed a 205 TCC with chrome (!) C lens attached, pointing out that even the latest piece of their equipment is compatible with the old. Is it because the old stuff is even older now?

Or perhaps they just want us to discard the oldies and spend more money buying new... ?) Unlike the FE and CFE lenses, the C, CB, CF and CFi lenses (and the older F lenses!) do not have the electronic databus, so the aperture must be closed down manually to take the meter reading with both cameras.

On the 203 FE you can manually set shutterspeeds up to 2000 seconds (almost 34 minutes).

The 202 FA camera does not offer the automatic bracketing feature, the 203 FE does. (You'll need a winder to use it though.)

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000
From: S Gardner [email protected]
Subject: HUG: Advice please regarding 2000FC series

Greetings all;

I'm returning to the list after a long hiatus.

Hoping for advice/experience regarding the 2000FC series bodies.

I know the basic facts. FC was the original, had problems with users 'denting' the rear curtain. FCM was the modified version that featured a snap away curtain. FCW was a version that could accept an optional winder.

I have a 503CX body with 50C, 80 and 150 CFT lenses. Condsidering the 2000 series because I feel the need for a back-up and can't justify the $$ for a 200 series body. I know I can use my 80 and 150 lenses with the 2000 series, but am not sure about the 50C. Can it be used? If so, how?

The reason I'm considering the 2000 series rather than another 500 series is that my logic tells me I should be able to bypass the leaf shutters and use the focal plane shutter of the body, but am not sure how to do so and how much trouble it might be. Thinking of those cases where it is nice to have a higher shutter speed to allow a larger aperture to limit DOF for outdoor portraits.

Finally, I recently corresponded with a well known camera pundit who compared the 2000 series bodies to Corvairs, i.e., not a favorable impression. For those who own and use these, what has your experience been? Reliability, & etc.?

Any other considerations I'm missing?

Many thanks in advance for sharing your experience/insights.

Best regards/Scott Gardner

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: HUG: Advice please regarding 2000FC series

[email protected] writes:

I have a 503CX body with 50C, 80 and 150 CFT lenses. Condsidering the 2000 series because I feel the need for a back-up and can't justify the $$ for a 200 series body. I know I can use my 80 and 150 lenses with the 2000 series, but am not sure about the 50C. Can it be used? If so, how?

The reason I'm considering the 2000 series rather than another 500 series is that my logic tells me I should be able to bypass the leaf shutters and use the focal plane shutter of the body,

I had a similar idea a while ago, expecting that 1) the electronic focal shutter would be more precise for shooting chrome, and 2) it would be a good backup in case a leaf shutter should malfunction. But after finding that Hasselblad no longer provides parts for the 2000 series, and the bodies are still in the $800 range, I decided to look for a 201F. I finally found one in mint shape for about the price of a new 503CW, and had it on a 10-day MBG.

I checked out the shutter and found that it wasn't very accurate, so I sent it to Hasselblad USA for a checkup. They returned it with the verdict that it needed the electronics replaced. Cost: $800 with labor. I checked with a couple independent Hasselblad repairers and they all declined to work on a 200-series. So, thte 201F went back under the 10-day MBG, and that was the end of my idea. I figure, any camera capable of needing $800-worth of repairs unless it was run over by a train, is not for me.

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Advice please regarding 2000FC series

S Gardner wrote:

> I know the basic facts.  FC was the original, had problems with users
> 'denting' the rear curtain.  FCM was the modified version that featured
> a snap away curtain.  FCW was a version that could accept an optional
> winder.
>
> I have a 503CX body with 50C, 80 and 150 CFT lenses.  Condsidering the
> 2000 series because I feel the need for a back-up and can't justify the
> $$ for a 200 series body.  I know I can use my 80 and 150 lenses with
> the 2000 series, but am not sure about the 50C.  Can it be used?  If
> so, how?

Yes it can, but only using the lens's leaf shutter.

> The reason I'm considering the 2000 series rather than another 500
> series is that my logic tells me I should be able to bypass the leaf
> shutters and use the focal plane shutter of the body, but am not sure
> how to do so and how much trouble it might be.  Thinking of those cases
> where it is nice to have a higher shutter speed to allow a larger
> aperture to limit DOF for outdoor portraits.

So you're out of luck (on this score) with your 50C :-( CF lenses can be used both with and without leaf-shutter without any trouble.

Mind you, the only extra shutterspeeds you get are 1/1000 and 1/2000.

And i have found on my 2000 FCW that it is rather optimistic to call its fastest speed 1/2000: it is approx 1/2 stop too slow.

> Finally, I recently corresponded with a well known camera pundit who
> compared the 2000 series bodies to Corvairs, i.e., not a favorable
> impression.  For those who own and use these, what has your experience
> been?  Reliability, & etc.?

They're perfectly good to use. No problems. Rather noisy though. But you will have to be real careful not to damage the shutter, even on the FC/M and FCW models.

> Any other considerations I'm missing?

If you would like a focal plane shutter plus TTL-flash, but do not want to pay for a 'real' 200-series camera, you might want to consider the 201 F (if you can find one, that is...). Its top shutterspeed is only 1/1000th though.

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
Subject: Re: HUG: Advice please regarding 2000FC series

[email protected] wrote:

> [...] But after finding that Hasselblad no longer provides parts for the 2000 series [...]

Is this confirmed, does Hasselblad no longer provide service for the 2000 series?

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000
From: Leonard Eselson [email protected]
Subject: re: HUG: Advice please regarding 2000FC series

Scott,

Don't believe all the poppycock about the 2000 series.

There is nothing wrong with the camera, and some major advantages over the 500 series.

The only thing wrong is with photographers who want to jam their fingers in the shutter. If you do that, then you are in for an expensive repair. On the other hand, if you manage to resist that temptation, then you have a fine machine, that is just as reliable as your 500's. The only other negative is that most repair men are unfamiliar with them. They should be sent to Hasselblad if they need service.

I had a pair of 500CM's and loved them, but felt that I had made a great leap forward when I switched to a pair of 2000 FCM's. Apart from the disappearing shutter, it is the same as the 2000 FC. I would not hesitate to go with either one.

Contact me if you have any questions; I'll be away for a week. Just to keep things on the up-and-up, I am selling a 2000FCM due to the purchase of a 201F, which I wanted for the TTL flash. I am keeping the other one.

Len Eselson

Advantages.

1. The shutter is incredibly accurate. I am talking about within a few percent. It is much more accurate than the C or CF lens shutters.

It also goes on out to 1/2000.

2. You can use any Hasselblad lens (Other than the ones for the old 1000 and 1600) including the 50C. (I had one and it was great. With a C lens you can either a. set the camera to C and use the lens shutter just as you do now or even better, b. set the shutter in the lens to 'B' and use the shutter in the body )

3. You can use the "F" lenses which are superb, and a stop faster then the C or CF line.

I have the 50 F, 80C, 150F, 250C. I started with all C's when I switched.

4. Most accessories fit.

5. There is no vignetting in the viewer with long lenses.

Contact me if you have any questions; I'll be away for a week. Just to keep things on the up-and-up, I am selling a 2000FCM due to the purchase of a 201 which I wanted for the TTL flash.

Len Eselson

...

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: 2000 Series Cameras

I have owned and used the 2000 FCW and found it a pleasure to use. All of the C lenses will work on this camera. I would stay away from the 2000 FC because it does not have the shutter curtain release feature that the FCM, the FCW or the 2003FCW has. In other words, when you remove the magazine back and the camera has been advanced, the shutter curtain will open so that they are not exposed to damage while the film back is off. The shutter curtains are made of a metal foil. Very thin and very vulnerable to wrinkling, marking, tearing, etc. Other than that, make sure you find one with the acute-matte screen. Check the shutter speeds and curtains (both before and after shutter release) carefully because it may be very difficult to repair and virtually impossible to replace the shutter mechanism even by Hasselblad.

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: 2000 Series Camera

Should also mention that the C lenses can be used in either the leaf shutter or focal plane shutter mode. When using the focal plane shutter of the camera, set the lenses shutter on "B" . Be sure to depress and keep the shutter release depressed until the focal plane shutter has completed the exposure.

From: "Daniel Janssen" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Hasselblad Medium Format

Hi Brent,

Your price is much too high. In the Netherlands you can buy the 2003 for $ 750, the 80 mm for $ 500, and the 150 mm (F 2.8) for $ 750. So your price is about $ 8,000 to high. For your $ 10.000 I can get a new 205 FCC with an new FE 80 mm lens and a second hand 150.

Sorry,

Daniel Janssen

...

From: [email protected] (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 20 Jul 2000
Subject: Re: Hasselblad Medium Format

...

>Please help!  I have recently come into
>possession of a Hasselblad 2003 FCW with an 80 mm
>lens and a 150 mm lens, along with a Rimowa
>hardshell case full of other goodies.  All of the
>equipment is MINT CONDITION and I've posted it on
>e-bay, but all I get are jokers who ask me if I'm
>"serious about selling" my camera and if so, why
>am I asking so much?

That's because you're asking a ridiculously high price. A 2003 FCW body is worth somewhere between $700 and $900. An 80mm lens (F or CF?) runs from $500 - $1000. KEH has a 150mm F lens for $849 on their website.

Your whole kit can be had from a *dealer* for somewhere between $2049 and $2749...with a warranty, etc. If you took this stuff down to a dealer and tried to sell it to him, you'd get about 60% of that, or $1229 - $1649. Selling to an individual, you should expect to split the difference: somewhere between $1639 and $2199.

Before you call people "jokers", you might want to do a little market research.

Steve

Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: Re: HUG: Advice please regarding 2000FC series

Robert Monaghan wrote:

> DId you ever get further confirmation on problems with parts and repairs
> on the hassy 2000 series? I've heard they are hard to work on, esp.
> shutter repairs, and that a lot of techs won't work on them, but I'd also
> be surprised if hasselblad was supplying parts for 500c and not 2000 series?
>
> thanks for update! ;-) bobm

It took a while, but here is what Hasselblad has to say:

"We can still repair the 2000 FCW and 2003 FCW but there are problems with the 2000 FC and FC/M as there are some main spareparts which are no longer available."

With regards.

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Service 2000FC series

Last month there were some questions regarding Hasselblad 2000 series cameras. It was mentioned that Hasselblad no longer provides parts for these cameras.

Here's what Hasselblad's mr. S.E. Kjellberg has to say on this subject:

"We can still repair the 2000 FCW and 2003 FCW but there are problems with the 2000 FC and FC/M as there are some main spareparts which are no longer available."

So if your considering getting a 2000-series camera, stay away from any 2000 FC or FC/M (or don't damage them!), but don't worry about FCWs (yet).

From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000
From: Bruce Wilson [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: hassy 203fe question

Mine is quite accurate. Keep the following in mind:

1. Like many cameras with built-in meters, the meter is set for slide film (protect the highlights), not print film. If you are not sure what that means, please email me directly.

2. With F lenses, the meter takes readings in full aperture but stops the lense diaphragm down to the manual f/stop setting on the lense when taking the picture. This will cause underexposure, of course. The way to get "point-and-shoot" behavior with F lenses is to activate the DOF (depth of field) lever on the lense and leave it activated at all times.

Hope this explains the results you got.

Bruce

-----Original Message-----

From: Tom Miller [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000
To: [email protected]
Subject: hassy 203fe question

I have recently purchased a 203fe, 2 E-backs, and two F lenses. Great piece of equipment but my exposures are not great... I would like some response from current users. I was hoping to use this much like 35mm automatic camera in the aperture mode. Not too happy with my results. What gives? Thanks. Tom

http://www.tommillerphotography.com/
Tom Miller

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000
From: Harald Finster [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 2000 series clarifications

Miller wrote:

> Hi,
>  I'm wondering if someone could clarify for me the differences between
> the Hasselblad 2000FC, the FC/W and the FCM.

don't kill me, if I am wrong:

- the FC is the 'basic' version

- the FCM has a more secure mechanism, which opens the focal-plane shutter as soon as you remove the magazine

- the FCW allows to attach a winder which does not only cock the camera but also closes the shutter automagically if the magazine has been changed

> Is there something awful about them that I don't know yet?

The question arises from time to time.

IMHO the 2000 series is at least as good as the 500 series. (I have practical experience with the 2000 FCM since ~1987)

As long as you treat the 2000FCx as it should be treated, it is a very reliable camera.

Be careful with the following:

- as I mentioned before, the focal-plane shutter opens automatically as soon as you remove the magazine (depending on model)

Don't forget to recock the camera after reattaching the magazine otherwise the shutter remains open and you will loose a frame The mechanism can be switched off, but this exposes the shutter!

- the sync contact had some problems (speaking about ** my ** camera)

- let the time-ring 'snap' exactly to the correct position if you set it to 'something between' you get something like 'B' in rare cases

- the FCM (and probably the FC model too) ** need ** a battery (AFAIK later models have a mechanical 'emergency' mechanism)

>  Any advice?

Try it out! I love it.

Greetings

Harald

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 2000 series clarifications

Miller wrote:

>  I'm wondering if someone could clarify for me the differences between
> the Hasselblad 2000FC, the FC/W and the FCM.
>  What is the history on this series? They sound fantastic on paper
> (well... CRT) but they don't seem to fetch very high prices on the used
> market. Is there something awful about them that I don't know yet?

The 2000 FC was the first camera in Hasselblad return to focal plane shutters. It is a very fine camera, apart from it having lots of trouble with the shutter: it was very fragile. One needed to take extreme care when handling the camera without back attached. Many photographers, perhaps 'mistaking' this camera for a extremely rugged 500-series body, apparently did not take the necessary care, and many shutters were damaged. The shutter mechanism too apparently was not always up to standard. These cameras rapidly earned (!) the name of being a bad buy. Hasselblad themselves advises against buying a 2000 FC, unless it is meant to be put in a collector's display...

The 2000 FC was replaced two years after its introduction by the 2000 FC/M. The shutter mechanism and electronics were improved. But the shutter curtains still were easily damaged, so a mechanism was introduced that retracted the shutter curtain whenever the film back was removed. So both problems were solved. But now Hasselblad say that they can no longer repair both 2000 FC and 2000 FC/M cameras because of a shortage in spare parts, so it will perhaps not be a good idea to buy even a 2000 FC/M...

In 1984 the 2000 FC/M is replaced by the 2000 FCW. It too has a large and vulnerable shutter, so it retained the retracting mechanism. It, again, has a different, improved shutter mechanism and electronics. It offers battery free operation when using the shutter in C and CF lenses. And it accepts an add-on motor. This is a fine camera, and it (and the 2003 FCW) can still be repaired. So it would be a good buy! But it still (undeservedly) carries the stigma attached to the early 2000 FCs, so they are relatively cheap to buy used.

In 1988 Hasselblad improved the entire range of cameras by giving them a new anti-reflection coating and replacing the, dreadfull, old focussing screen by the Acute Matte (plus, in the case of the 2000 FCW, only a few minor changes). This upgrade was reflected in the name of all cameras, making the 2000 FCW the 2003 FCW. This too would be a good buy. And it too still has the bad name attached, so cheap to buy!

Meanwhile, Hasselblad was working on a completely new line of, electronic, focal plane shutter cameras, the 200-series, marking the demise of the 2000-series in 1990. The vulnerable shutter was replaced by rubberized cloth shutter, that can take far more abuse. And, as you probably know, there were many, many changes. One of them was to the attachable motor. The motor for the 2000/2003 FCW would reset the shutter whenever a new back was placed on the camera. Since the shutter on the 200-series no longer retracts when taking of the back, the motor for the 200-series cameras no longer does this. It can be used on the 2000-series cameras though. These cameras (the 200-series) would be even better to buy, if only we could afford to...

All Hasselblad 2000-series and 200-series focal plane shutter camera bodies have a large non-vignetting mirror.

> I was
> planning on getting a 500 C/M, but am now thinking that the 2000 FCW/M
> might be a better choice in that it allows using both lens series.

The 2000/2003 FCW is every bit as good as the 500 C/M, but you still will have to take care not to damage the shutter! (And it is louder). But i would stay away from the 2000 FC and FC/M.

Date: 22 Aug 2000
From: John Sparks [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 2000 series clarifications

....

I bought a used 2003FCW about a year ago. I really wanted a 110/2 lens (it's the only Hasselblad lens I have) so I needed something from the 2000 series or 200 series. The 200's are way overpriced. Before I got the 2003, I did a bit of research. The 2000FC was the first in the series. The 2000FCM is identical, except that the shutter opens when you remove the back (the shutter is fragile and often "wrinkled" in used cameras). The 2000FCW replaced the FCM and adds the ability to use a motor drive. The 2003FCW is a 2000FCW with an Accumatte screen and maybe some better flocking inside the body to reduce flare. I think other than these differences and the age, the cameras are all the same. I think I saw somewhere that Hasselblad doesn't have parts to repair some problems with cameras older than the 2000FCW.

Hope this helps.

John Sparks

Date: 23 Aug 2000
From: "Austin Franklin" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 2000 series clarifications

Just as a note, though you may find a 2000FC with a slight dent or curtain wrinkle, it does not mean there is anything wrong with the shutter...it probably works just fine.

As others have said, the 2000FC/W or 2003FC/W are the ones to get. The 3 is the exact same as the 0, except it has palpas coating in the mirror chamber, which is of minimal significance probably to most people, and it comes with an Acute-Matte screen, which you can buy and swap out your self very easily... If you do get a 3, make sure the screen IS an AM screen, or don't pay more for it than a regular 0...

Aside from being able to use all the C/CF lenses, it can use the awesome F lenses, the 110/2 being my favorite, and the 50/2.8. The F lenses are a lot cheaper than the CF lenses, since the shutter isn't in the lense....and they are less sought after, since they can only be used on the 200/x cameras, and there are far less of them than 500.

...

Date: 10 Oct 2000
From: [email protected] (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 2000 FC - FC/M Opinions wanted

Mark Jenkins [email protected] wrote:

>I forgot one question.
>
>What is the difference between the FC and the FC/M. I understand that the
>"M" means "modified" but how was it modified?

The original FC was very prone to damage to the focal plane shutter curtains when film magazines were changed. The curtains were made of a very thin titanium foil and it was quite easy for careless users (and we're all careless from time to time) to puncture or dent the curtain with the thumb while removing or attaching the magazine.

The FC/M incorporated a mechanism which caused the shutter curtain to retract when the magazine was removed, thus preventing this from happening.

The later FC/W incorporated the same mechanism, but added a provision for a motor drive.

>> Is this a rare model in that either few were produced and/or purchased?

The above-mentioned FC problem tarnished the reputation of the F-series cameras, even after the problem was rectified.

They just never caught on.

>> What year was this model introduced and when was production stopped?

I can't remember when they were introduced. Production stopped in '89 or '90.

>> How does this model live up to the legendary Hasselblad quality?

Quite well - particularly the FC/M and FC/W.

>> Does it have interchangeable focussing screens and finders?

Yes. They'll accept every Hasselblad lens and accessory made since 1957, except older extension tubes and accessories peculiar to the EL series of motorized cameras. Oh, and the 8mm extension tube IIRC, because it's too short to clear the shutter speed ring.

>> What is a "fair" price to pay for one?

I wouldn't pay over $700 for an FC/M body.

Two weeks ago I declined to purchase a nice 2003 FC/W body *with motor* for $1100 because I thought it was overpriced. Everyone else at the camera show seemed to agree, because the seller had to take it home with him.

Steve

Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000
From: Harald Finster [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 2000 FC - FC/M Opinions wanted

Steve Gombosi wrote:

> >> Does it have interchangeable focussing screens and finders?
>
> Yes. They'll accept every Hasselblad lens and accessory made since
> 1957, except older extension tubes and accessories peculiar to the
> EL series of motorized cameras. Oh, and the 8mm extension tube IIRC, because
> it's too short to clear the shutter speed ring.

The same is true for the Kenco 2x converter. But it is very easy to modify the converter to make it fit.

Harald

Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000
From: "Dave Pearman" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 2000 FC - FC/M Opinions wanted

"Mark Jenkins" [email protected] wrote

> What is the difference between the FC and the FC/M. I understand
> that the "M" means "modified" but how was it modified?

Users of the 2000FC had an unfortunate habit of putting their thumbs through the shutter when the back was removed... ;-) The later model opens the shutter when the back is removed.

> > How does this model live up to the legendary Hasselblad quality?

The 2000 models seem to have a reputation for shutter problems. I have a 2000FC body with a busted shutter (no thumbs!) which will cost more to repair than it's worth. Even before it failed, some dealers here refused to take it in part exchange.

> > Does it have interchangeable focussing screens and finders?

Yep - same fitting as other Hasselblad models.

> > What is a "fair" price to pay for one?

You can have my busted one for $50! ;-)

Hope this helps.

Dave Pearman

Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 2000 FC - FC/M Opinions wanted

Mark Jenkins wrote:

> It looks like the 2000 series will do the mirror lock-up procedure that I
> require. I would like to hear any and all opinions regarding this model.
>
> Is this a rare model in that either few were produced and/or purchased?
>     This is not for collecting purposes. I cannot seem to find that many of
>     them for sale.

The 2000 series got of to a bad start, the original model, the 2000 FC, being troubled with lots of owners complaining about busted shutters. This was partly due to a not-quite-that-good construction, and partly because of people expecting these new focal plane shutter bodies to be as robust as the 500 series cameras. And they are, except for the huge, but extremely thin corrogated titanium shutter blinds. These are exposed whenever the filmbacks are taken off, and that happens every time you take the filmback off... ;-) What usually happened was that when switching backs not enough care was taken not to touch the shutter blinds. And a dent is very easy to make, but was *very* expensive to fix. Hasselblad themselves were heard advising against buying a 2000 FC, unless you mean to put it in a display cabinet.

The next model, the 2000 FC/M ("M" for "modified"), fixed this problem by introducing a mechanism that retracts the shutter blinds the moment the filmback is removed. You need to reset the shutter after attaching the back by turning the rewind crank with central disk depressed.

This new mechanism was introduced on some 2000 FC cameras as well, before the designation changed to 2000 FC/M. So some FCs are FC/Ms.

Not all repairs on both the 2000 FC and 2000 FC/M models are still possible today, since some spare parts are no longer available. So don't buy one of these.

The next model in the 2000 series, the 2000 FCW, was modified to take an add-on motor winder. And it can work without battery (no battery drain when keeping the shutter open for long exposures, like those common in, say, astrophotography!) when the shutter is switched to the C-setting. It appears that the shutter mechanism too was changed in this model, since the shortage of spare parts does not apply to this, and the later 2003 FCW, model.

Next, and last, in line was the 2003 FCW model, incorporating all the improvements made to the entire Hasselblad camera range at that time, including better internal antireflection coatings, and the new Acute Matter focussing screens. There's no functional difference between this and the earlier FCW model.

This model was continued until the first camera in the 200 series, the 205 TCC, was introduced.

Basically, these are all fine cameras. You just have to be careful not to damage the shutter. But due to the early problems with the 2000 FC, the entire 2000 series gained a bad reputation. Undeservedly so. But, not being popular, there obviously were not that many sold, so they are somewhat harder to find used.

Their impopularity was also due to the fact that, though they fully integrate into the C-system, they were mostly seen as forming a new, quite separate F-system, 'needing' new, expensive, lenses, thus requiring a considerable investment.

There indeed were problems with the 2000 FC model, but all subsequent models, and certainly the FCW models, are very good, and quite safe.

But not being popular also means that if you manage to find one, it will probably be not very expensive ;-)

> What year was this model introduced and when was production stopped?

The 2000 FC was made from 1977 to 1981 (approx. 6000 made).
The 2000 FC/M from 1981 to 1984 (approx. 5000 bodies made).
The 2000 FCW was made from 1984 and 1987 (approx. 2000 - 3000 cameras produced).
The last one, the 2003 FCW was made in 1988, 1989 and 1990 (approx. 2000 cameras made).

> How does this model live up to the legendary Hasselblad quality?

With the possible exception of the early 2000 FC (and FC/M?), it is quite safe to say that they are true Hasselblad products!

> Does it have interchangeable focussing screens and finders?

Yes.

> What is a "fair" price to pay for one?

Ah, well... Depends on condition as well. I'd say about $600 - 700. But i don't really know...

> That's it for the questions. Any elaboration's on the above, or other issues
> that you have that I did not think of, are most appreciated.

Though they as well have huge, exposed shutter blinds, the new 200 series camera's shutters are in no way troubled with the same problems. Their blinds are made of rubberized silk, and can take some abuse. I've seen a Hasselblad official (accidentally) push the curtain out with his finger, and it just as easily popped back with another push, and still functioned as new... Now if only they too offered true mirror lock-up... (and if only they would not cost a not so small fortune...) ;-)

Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000
From: Harald Finster [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 2000 FC - FC/M Opinions wanted

....

A few remarks in addition to what Q.G. Bakker wrote:

If you use the FC/M, you have to recock the shutter after re-attaching a back, because otherwise the shutter will stay open and exposure starts as soon as you remove the dark slide. (This is a common mistake of first time FC/M users, but you will get used to do it after a short time.)

My first FC/M body had a problem with an unreliable sync contact (required in conjunction with F-lenses only)

Take care, thar the time-ring 'snaps' into it's correct position. If you set it to a position 'between' two time values the result might be a 'B' setting.

Always carry a spare battery. There is no built in battry check.

Greetings

Harald

--
Harald Finster

From Hasselblad Mailing List;
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001
From: R Barr [email protected]
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 503CW vs. Hasselblad 201F

I had the same problem a year or so ago. Spend $1900 on a 201F to keep the F/FE lenses, or spend $600 on a mint 2000 series body. I went with a 2000 body. I have had great luck. You can't get them fixed, but if you take care of it, you may never need to. They are cheap and work great. Plus, you can slap the 40 on there if you want. I would steer clear of a 2000 FC, but would recommend the FCM and or FCW. The 2003FCW has an Acutemat screen, but, are hard to find. I even had one with a wrinkled shutter curtain and it worked great, too.

rbarr

From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Hey guys-thanks for your input

R Barr wrote:

> Will the manuals cover the 200 or 2000 cameras?

No, I try to stay completely away from the focal plane bodies, as they seem to be breaking down all the time, and Hasselblad does not have the parts to fix some of the things that break (especially the 2000 series).

--

Dick Werner
112 South Brighton St.
Burbank, Ca., 91506
(818) 845-4667
[email protected]

From hasselblad mailing list;
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
Subject: Re: 200x series reliability - WAS : RE: Hey guys-thanks for your input

Austin Franklin wrote:

> I am also not aware that there is a parts problem with the 2000 series.   I
> heard that for the 1600 and 1000 no more shutter curtains are available.

Hasselblad had this to say in August 2000 ( ;-) ) about repairing 2000 series cameras:

"We can still repair the 2000 FCW and 2003 FCW but there are problems with the 2000 FC and FC/M as there are some main spareparts which are no longer available."

> Personally, I believe the 2000 was given a bad rap, and the rumors of
> unreliability are unsubstantiated.

There seem to have been some very real problems with the 2000 FC, not just because people were poking the shuttersblinds with their fingers. So i guess the early models earned the bad rap they got. Even Hasselblad AB at one time advised against buying a 2000 FC, unless for display use only. This reputation however stuck, even though the later models had no (?) problems. Yet it must be indicative of something that Hasselblad decided to replace the 2000 series shutter by the new 200 series shutters. And apparently very few repair persons are willing to take on the repair of a 2000 series camera, which could be taken to mean something not so good as well (though it could be no more than that they are complicated cameras to work on, requiring lots of time and patience).

Still, i'm enjoying my 2000 FCW. No worries!

> This bad rap makes for a VERY attractive
> pricing on these models, as well as the F lenses are cheaper and have wider
> apertures.  They can use both the CF and F and even C lenses...as well  as
> have a top shutter speed of 2000 and the later models (FC/W and on) can
> sport a very nice winder.

Yes, that is the up-side. They're not very expensive... if you can find the stuff. I've been trying to find some F lenses (yes, i know the same lenses are still available as FE lenses) to complement my 2000 FCW (i've been using it with CF lenses) locally, but they seem to have all vanished into thin air. And F-winders? Never even seen one for sale. :-(

From hasselblad mailing list;
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001
From: Evan J Dong [email protected]
Subject: Re: 200x series reliability - WAS : RE: Hey guys-thanks for your input

As Q.G. de Bakker mentioned, Hasselblad did announce that parts are no longer available for the 2000 series body.

At the PhotoPlus Expo in NYC, I spoke with Don Snyder, Repair Manager of Hasselblad. He told me that no new parts are being manufactured for the 2000 series and when all existing parts are exhausted, cannibalizing of nonfunctional 2000 series body will be done for parts. What they are attempting to do is to discourage people from buying into the older bodies and for them to buy the newer bodies.

The 2000 series are difficult to work on due to the electronic and the fragile curtains. The 2000 FCM is a good reliable body over the earlier 2000 FC. However, the Fc can be modify into the FCM configuration. This was told to me by Hasselblad USA and also by two former Hasselblad technicians.

I am currently using a 2000FCM with 2 F series lenses (50mF2.8 and the 80mmF2.8) . I am planning on having two 3rd party lenses adapted to fit and work with the 2000/200 series bodies. The Kiev 30mm Zodiak/Arsat MC Fisheye and the CZJ 180mmF2.8 Sonnar MC. When my 2000 FCM really dies, I will buy into the newer 200 series body. Until then, I plan to use and enjoy my 2000 FCM.

Q.G. de Bakker, you can check with Quality Camera, they have been selling F series lenses on EBay periodically. That was where the 50mm came from. It purchased as Mint with the older lenshood included. I passed up the 110mmF2.0. I decided to go for the 100mmF3.5 instead.

Evan Dong

From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 200x series reliability - WAS : RE: Hey guys-thanks for your input

Austin Franklin wrote:

> > > Personally, I believe the 2000 was given a bad rap, and the rumors of
> > > unreliability are unsubstantiated.
> >
> > There seem to have been some very real problems with the 2000 FC, not  just
> > because people were poking the shuttersblinds with their fingers.
>
> Where are these problems documented?  I've heard this, but it's never  been
> substantiated at all.
>
> > Even Hasselblad AB
> > at one time
> > advised against buying a 2000 FC
>
> Is this documented?  Who said this?  I've never heard such a thing  before,
> and find it hard to believe.

Austin, what happens, at least on the 2000 series bodies, is there is a circuit board that goes out. The symtoms are that one minute your shutter will work perfectly, the next minute it will not. Hasselblad has not stocked this board for many years now. What they do, is rob from the bad boards they have removed, and replace parts from the old board to the board in your camera. This will only go on just so long, then all of a sudden, your camera will be a paper weight. They stocked these boards for less than 10 years, which is very unusual for Hasselblad to pull something like this.

The focal plane bodies are very difficult to sell, do to a lot of rumors and such, plus the parts problem, therefore, I just stay away from them. I personally know of no problems with the 200 series, but again, they just are not hot sellers. The shutterless lenses go very cheaply as you well know.

I have had some wow deals offered to me on these cameras and the answer is always the same-no thanks.

I will say one thing though, if you want a shutter that is accurate, the focal plane bodies sure have it. They are right on the money. Your shuttered lenses are always off at least 10/20 percent or more. --

          Dick Werner
     112 South Brighton St.
       Burbank, Ca., 91506
         (818) 845-4667
    [email protected]

[Ed. note: I've got to admire hasselblad USA for giving such direct and helpful answers about its own gear in service to their customer...]
From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001
From: Evan J Dong [email protected]
Subject: Re: 200x series reliability - WAS : RE: Hey guys-thanks for your input

Austin ,

I didn't mean to stir up any trouble here by stating what was told to me. The main reason why I bought into the 2000 series was to adapt the 30mm Zodiak and the 180mm Sonnar to use on a real Hasselblad, not a Kiev. I went directly to Hasselblad since I live in NJ, and spoke with Don Snyder. He try to steer me away from the 2000 series body and direct me to the 200 series body instead. I mentioned that I can't afford to buy a 200 body, since I don't use these equipment to make my living. I am jut a serious hobbist who likes Hasselblad. After I mentioned this, he told me to bring in any 2000 body that I was planning to buy so that he can inspect it for me. That was how I bought my 2000 FCM. Of course, he was deadset against using 3rd party lenses, he recommend that I at least buy the F lenses or use my CF lenses.

Knowing that parts would eventually not be there in 5 to 10 years, I decided to go for the FCM and hope that I will get my use out of it. Beyond these two lenses that I will adapt, I really don't have any reason to buy the 2000 series body. I am happy with my 503CW and my 5533ELX.

Evan

...

From Hasselblad Mailing List;
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001
From: David Gerhardt [email protected]
Subject: Re: 203FE?

[email protected] wrote:

[excerpt] I would like to ask a very basic question, now that there is the pending price drop on the 203FE. I am a very happy owner of a 503CW and several lenses. What would be gained by stepping up to the 203FE? Would I have to dump my current lenses to get the most out of the 203FE?

Thanks,

Jack

[excerpt]

Jack-

The answer is "it depends"! If you just recently bought your 503, and have the newer (CFE) lenses, you could use those existing lenses with full automation. With my 203, I'm using 3 lenses; 40cfe, 80cfe, & 150cf. The 40 & 80 function with full automation; as if they were "FE" lenses. The 150cf is older, and simply needs to be stopped down. This does require an extra step, but it's not a big deal on a Hasselblad (focus, stop down, meter, shoot...). And you can always add FE lenses in the future.

The inherent flexibility of the camera is what drove me to the 203. I can use C, CF, CFE, CFi, F, or FE lenses. It also has some very "nice" additional features, like the ability to make multiple exposures without removing the film back, a self-timer (not on newer 500 bodies without additional hardware), and some very sophisticated options for metering (manual, aperture priority, and a "differential" indication of the exposure for checking the range of exposures in a scene). Some of the more esoteric features are a little difficult to remember (true for most new electronic cameras), but overall it is an extremely capable photographic tool.

In order to fully appreciate the capabilities of a camera like the 203, I'd advise any prospective owner to read the corresponding section of Wildi's book, or (even better) order the manual from Hasselblad. I ordered an extra one; I think it was only $5. This would be a VERY wise investment in understanding the capabilities and limitations of the camera (whether or not the price drops several thousand dollars).

-David Gerhardt

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001
From: David Gerhardt [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Introducing myself and a question

Josep Mir� wrote:

> I went to a specialized shop in Barcelona and they showed-me a Rollei
> 6008i and a Hasselblad 203FE.
> I founded the Rollei too heavy in comparison as the Hassy
> ....
> Now, I have a new problem: I can't afford for a 203FE. But, perhaps I
> can buy a 202FA (expensive but cheaper than the 203FE). The other
> option is to buy a 501CM or a 503CW.
> ... Do you think is a good camera? Can I take same quality images with
> de 501CM than with a 200 series?.
>  The price is similar and I don't know which is the diference between
> CF and CFi lenses.
> Another question: the quality of images taken with FE lenses is the  
> same than CF or CFi lenses?
>
> Pep Mir�

Josep-

Welcome to being (almost) a Hasselblad owner! Regarding your first question; if at all possible, I'd go with the 203FE. I had a 500c/m for many years, and moved up to the 203 two years ago. About a month or so ago, it was announced on this forum that Hasselblad was about to SIGNIFICANTLY drop the price of the 203. You may want to check into that before you buy. The price drop mentioned was from $5732 (US) to $3175!

Has anyone on the list heard any updates on this?

Second, 202 vs 203? Especially if the price reduction takes place; the 203 is a much more flexible machine.

Can the 500 series cameras take as good pictures as the 200 series? In many cases, you'd be using the same lenses! So, yes. The lens is the largest impact on image quality. The 203 can use nearly ALL of the 500 series lenses; the 500 cameras CANNOT use the FE lenses. This is not usually a big thing, unless you do a lot of available light or closeup work (the FE lenses usually are faster, and focus closer than their leaf-shutter counterparts). There are some differences that might sway you one way or another based on your own photographic tastes. The 500 cameras are a little "quieter". They don't require batteries. Most 200 series cameras come with built-in metering. The 203 & 205 can be set for VERY long exposure times (up to 30+ minutes) that are precisely controlled. And the NEWER cameras (500 or 200) have better internal light baffling for improved contrast & flare reduction.

Regarding the CF, CFi, and FE lenses; go to the Hasselblad web site (or read either of the following books: Hasselblad System Compendium by Nordin, or the Hasselblad Manual by Wildi). The web site has fairly good descriptions of what features the CFi ("improved" CF) lenses offer, and what the maximum apertures & focal lengths are for the FE lenses. There are excellent lenses made for the Hasselblad both with & without shutters. The 203 can use nearly all of them.

Good luck, and think of it as an investment ! ;-)
-David Gerhardt

([email protected]

From Hasselblad Mailing List;
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001
From: Austin Franklin [email protected]
Subject: Hasselblad "F" series lenses with new 20x bodies...

Here's what I found out for the 205FCC and using the "F" and "CF" (using the focal plane shutter) lenses without having to use the aperture pre-release.

The best mode to use appears to be the "Ab" (actually just A, but they share the same switch position) mode. It allows 5 full stops of compensation, which will work for all but the smallest apertures. This will allow me to meter full open, and shutter will be fully automatic. In "Ab" mode, the compensation does not get reset when you press the shutter button...and can be reset when you use the "Lock" button on the side. To meter, I just point the camera where I want to meter, press the shutter button half way, which takes and locks the exposure, then I re-compose the image.

"D" mode can't be used at all. Though it has programmable compensation. The issue is you can only take the exposure reading when you press the lock button on the side, and that resets the compensation. Also, the shutter release doesn't lock the exposure, like in the "Ab" mode. I would have to reset the compensation every time...after the meter reading is locked.

"Z" mode is OK to use too...it gives you 5 full stops of compensation. The compensation is set by holding down the lock button, and using the arrow keys to move the default starting zone...the starting zone doesn't get reset by just pressing the "lock" button... The only advantage of "Z" mode over "Ab" mode is you get the compensation from the film back figured into the exposure...if you are using compensation.

The "L" indicator, that indicates the exposure is "locked", only comes on in "Ab" mode...even though "D" and "Z" mode lock the exposure too... A little inconsistent in the interfaces...

All in all, I think they really didn't do a good job at all to allow the use of "F" and "CF" (with the FP shutter) lenses with this camera. It appears to me that the changes to make them work reasonably well could be easily done in firmware, if they only thought it through in the first place.

I was told by someone at the Hasselblad factory that the teeth were removed from the shutter speed ring (and I quote):

"1. The coupling was very delicate in manufacturing and handling when we introduced an electronical coding of the shutter speed setting. The risk of malfunction was too high so we decided to eliminate this coupling. For FE lenses the coupling is of course not necessary in automatic mode."

It doesn't sound right to me...I don't see how an electronic sensor is effected by the inclusion of teeth that couple the aperture and the shutter speed ring, unless they just don't want the shutter speed ring moved much...but all the 2000 have had a sensor (of some kind) on the shutter speed ring...they all have electronic shutters...

Also as a note, the CFE lenses do NOT transfer the shutter speed information to the camera body! If they did, you could meter them in manual mode just like an "FE" lense.

From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: First impressions of MF / 501CM
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002


Dilbertdroid2 wrote:

> >Not having to care about batteries is great.  The 501CM is the only
> >camera I have that does not require some sort of battery--even my old FG
> >and the Leica M require a battery for the meter (but the 501CM has no
> >meter).
>
> So you do what?   Guess at the exposure?

Indeed. You'll need a battery anyway. And they usually are easier to find
than film.

Besides, batteries in cameras are not necessarily something to worry about.
For instance, on a 2000 series Hasselblad (one that does take batteries)
there is no on-off switch. You don't need one: the camera consumes so little
power that one battery will last for about 300.000 exposures.
In theory, of course, since any battery will run down all by itself long
before you can get even close to making that many exposures. So i carry a
spare, and i replace it once every year, but just for the heck of it, not
because i worry. ;-)



Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 
From: Austin Franklin [email protected]
Reply to: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [HUG] Remote for 200-series?

> Daniel Taylor wrote:
>
> > this is one of the reasons Hasselblad's get beat up so
> > badly and accused of running so far behind the rest of
> > the camera world. there is no excuse to not be able to
> > electrically trigger a $5500 camera body like my
> > 203FE.
>
> Remember the 2000 series? They could be triggered through the contacts in
> the battery compartment.
> However, when triggered this way, neither 2000 or 2003 FCW model could
> signal to the attached winder that something had happened. There were no
> electronics (one wire) in place to do that.
> Though these are different cameras all together, i would guess (only
> guess... ) that the 200 series cameras still could be triggered
> through the
> battery compartment. And if so, that they do have the necessary wiring to
> signal this to the winder. Anybody here familiar with the electronics and
> wiring diagram of a 200 series camera?

Hi Q.G.,

I do believe there was such a thing...  I know about the 60x converter than
replaces the battery carrier...but I don't find such a device in the Nordin
book.  If you're right, that would be just great!

I'll take a look at my 2003 and see what I can come up with.  If you're
right, and the contacts are there...it should be easy to modify a battery
carrier to allow an IR trigger to be used.

The connector for the battery carrier is 8 pins, the camera has 6 of these
pins occupied, and the battery carrier, four.  That, to me, means the other
two may be the trigger?

HEY PETER!....do you have a schematic for a 200x series camera, and/or the
battery carrier?  I'll also call Hasselblad in NJ and ask them if they can
give me any information on this.

Austin



Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 
From: "Q.G. de Bakker" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HUG] Remote for 200-series?

Austin Franklin wrote:

> Hi Q.G.,

Hello,

> I do believe there was such a thing...  I know about the 60x converter than
> replaces the battery carrier...but I don't find such a device in the Nordin
> book.  If you're right, that would be just great!
>
> I'll take a look at my 2003 and see what I can come up with.  If you're
> right, and the contacts are there...it should be easy to modify a battery
> carrier to allow an IR trigger to be used.

The contacts are there all right. I had planned to do something similar
(cable, not IR) a long time ago. I never got round to it. I'm afraid i
forgot what contacts are doing what... my face reddens with shame... ;-)

You should be able to do more than just trigger the camera through the
battery compartment. The shutter speed multiplier (anyone on the list having
one of these lying around, and not wanting lots of money for it?) controls
the shutter speed through the battery compartment. Anything a simple, fixed,
additional resistor can do we should be able to do better. So how about
plugging in a device that has a variable resistance, like, for instance, a
light meter and let that control shutter speeds...? Setting the camera's
shutterspeed ring to 1/2000, the extra resistance provided by the external
variable resistor can than determine the shutterspeed the shutter will in
fact make.

When the 2000 cameras were first introduced, there was much (Hasselblad fed)
speculation in the press about the possibilities this battery socket could
provide. A meter-prism connected to the shutter by cable through the battery
compartment was top on the list. Such a thing however never materialized.

There was a remote (cable) trigger though. It is not in Nordin's excellent
book, but mr. Chernoff (he *is* in the book ;-)) very kindly sent me a copy
of a page from a 1984 Hasselblad publication showing "Special Equipment",
among which "a handgrip for remote-control triggering of the shutter in a
Hasselblad 2000 FC/M".

It was mr. Chernoff who pointed out to me that though it would trigger the
camera, there was no signal to an attached winder. So with the thing you can
remotely fire one shot, but than have to return to the camera to wind on,
leave the camera again, do the next remotely triggered shot, return to the
camera, etc. Perhaps the reason why this remote trigger remained an obscure
"Special Equipment" item? Hasselblad must have learned from this, and i bet
the 200 series do have the internal means to let a winder know the shutter
has been triggered.

Regards.




Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [HUG] new $2k rebates ?!

I was surprised when Hasselbladusa cut the price last year on the 203fe so
dramatically.  But now I see they are offering a $2k rebate when a
203fe+back+60-120 lens are purchased!

Is Hasselblad hurting so badly that they are desparately trying to get things
moving with deep price cuts?  (Their recent financial info didn't look
rosey.)

Are they instead simply unloading overstock in an unpopular item?  (It seems
that there have been numerous postings in the past that were less than
enthusiastic about the 60-120 zoom.)

Are they clearing the shelves in preparation for an introduction of a major
new equipment line?

I know that we can only speculate, but I would be interested in hearing the
opinions of our members as to the reasons behind these deep price
cuts/promotionals.

Art



Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 
From: Mehrdad Sadat [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [HUG] new $2k rebates ?!

if you compare the us prices with hk, you will see how huge of a markup hass
usa is adding to each camera and lens. with the slow economy and the digital
around the corner, i think they are getting aggressive trying get new
customers. if it were good times, they would have kept the prices high
regardless of the camera achieving profitability. besides i don't think they
keep their GL be camera type!! it is just hard times. if you compare
Canadian prices, you will see the same figures as usa but a 40% discount
because of the c dollar

Regards, Mehrdad



Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 
From: Jim Brick [email protected]
To: [email protected],
Subject: Re: [HUG] new $1k rebate !

You can get a $1k rebate on the lens alone.

Jim
...



From: "Austin Franklin" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace.medium-format
Subject: Re: Hasselblad 2000FC/M
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002


If it WAS a 2003, it would only be a 2003FC/W.  The 2003 was only made as an
FC/W.  The W means it can take a motorized winder.  The 2003 is exactly the
same as the 2000FC/W, but includes an AcuteMatte screen (excellent screen,
very bright), and a "palpas" coated interior.  You may pay a premium for the
2003, as it is very sought after...and if you can find a 2000FC/W with the
AcuteMatte screen, it's really the same camera.

Make sure ANY 2000 you look at does not have wrinkled or dented or damaged
shutter curtains...BOTH of them.  Look at the first before firing the
shutter (make sure it's wound), and the second after firing the shutter.

The 200xFC/W is an EXCEPTIONAL camera.  If it is within your price range, I
would highly recommend it.  Take a look at KEH for decent prices on these,
AND remember, they come with a warranty from KEH, and they are VERY
reputable.

One big deal about the 200x is it can use lenses with shutters, or without.
There are some EXCEPTIONAL lenses without shutters, such as the 110/2 and
the 50/2.8.  They are a full stop faster than the shutter version of these
lenses.

You can also get a prism meter for it, BUT...make sure the meter is
calibrated for the particular screen in the camera, or you will get
inaccurate readings!

You might want to get a book on Hasselblad, "The Hasselblad Manual" may be
your best bet for generic system information.

Good Luck!


"Michael Jenkins" [email protected] wrote 
> Can anybody out there give me some info on the Hasselblad 2003FC/M? I am
> looking to buy a Medium format camera and saw one of these for sale at my
> local camera store. Also if anybody has any insight as to what cameras to
> stay away from,or just tips in general, I'd appreciate your input. Thanks,
> Mike



From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 
From: Austin Franklin [email protected]
Subject: RE: 203FE?

> you could use those existing lenses with full automation. With my 203, I'm using 3
> lenses; 40cfe, 80cfe, & 150cf. The 40 & 80 function with full automation; as if
> they were "FE" lenses.

Pretty much true, but the CFE lenses don't transfer the shutter information
to the body, so in manual mode, if you are using the shutter in the lense,
it works differently than the FE lenses, it works just like the CF lenses...

> I can use C, CF, CFE, CFi, F, or FE lenses.

How do you use the CF and F lenses?  Do you keep the aperture stopped-down,
and meter from there, or use compensation...or just shoot wide open all the
time ;-)

> I'd advise any prospective owner to read the corresponding section of Wildi's book

IMO, it's incomplete...WRT the F and CF(E) lense support ;-/

> or (even better) order the manual from Hasselblad.

Great suggestion!  Though one thing I found out, was there is just so much
you can get from a manual, without actually having the camera to use...
Experience is certainly the best teacher.  Perhaps renting one for a day
might be a good idea?  I'm really glad I got my 205, and with the FE lenses,
it really works great, the CFE lenses almost great...

I was a bit disappointed with the handling of the F and CF lenses...but they
are certainly 'usable'.  I ended up getting all (C)FE lenses for the ones I
used the most, simply because I don't like aperture stop-down focusing, or
having to adjust the compensation (though that solution is very usable).
Also, to use the internal meter (or I should say to SEE the internal meter)
you have to have the magnifier of the WLF up...not near as easy to see as on
the Rollei 6008...

For the price the 203FE now is at, it's really quite attractive.  Like
someone else said, I wish one body had both spot and average metering...  If
you use a prism all the time, you might consider a 200xFC/W with the PME-45
prism...though you don't get the automatic modes, it's a lot cheaper
solution, given how cheap the F series lenses are now!



From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 
From: Jim Brick [email protected]
Subject: RE: 203FE?

 Austin Franklin wrote:
>
>Pretty much true, but the CFE lenses don't transfer the shutter information
>to the body, so in manual mode, if you are using the shutter in the lense,
>it works differently than the FE lenses, it works just like the CF lenses...
>
>How do you use the CF and F lenses?  Do you keep the aperture stopped-down,
>and meter from there, or use compensation...or just shoot wide open all the
>time ;-)



The nice thing about the 203 & 205 is that is a sophisticated focal plane
Hasselblad and ALSO allows you to use non FE lenses.

It was made for FE lenses that contain no shutter. So it stands to reason
that the electronics were not set-up to recognize the C shutter.

The CFE lenses were introduced as it would be silly to redesign a very
successful existing product (40CF) as a 40FE lens. So the 40CFE lens is a
40 FE lens that happens to also retain the C shutter and a method of using
it. Or it is a 40CF lens with an added lens aperture data bus to make it a
40CFE. With the 80FE/80CFE, since most Hasselblads are sold with one, they
could see that it was silly to make two identical lenses, one with and one
without a C shutter. So add a databus to the 80CF and made it a CFE.

The bottom line is that the primary intent of the 203 & 205 is as focal
plane cameras made for FE lenses. The added bonus of being able to use the
C shutter in all other lenses is frosting on the cake.


Remove the battery from a 203 or 205 and you have a 501. A fully functional
mechanical Hasselblad camera able to use all lenses, backs, adapters,
accessories that a 501 can use. Try that with an electronic Contax, Mamiya,
or Bronica (I assume they all have electronic versions.)

I have had battery failures in the field. All of my lenses except the 110FE
are CFi and CFE lenses. I usually use my 100CFi in the field rather than my
110FE. I also always carry a Gossen Luna Pro Digital meter in my pocket. A
25 degree angle of acceptance for the reflected mode make it a great meter
to augment the 203 built-in meter. And its incident mode is vert accurate.
Many times, after meticulously setting up, you need to take a reading in
some direction other than where the camera is pointing. The Gossen is
perfect for this and is matches my 203 meter exactly. With this meter and
CF/CFi/CFE lenses, we don't need no stinkin camera battery... ;)

Coming back on topic, I use the built-in meter in my 203FE 80% of the time.
It is very accurate and using it with the 40CFE, 80CFE, and 110FE lenses is
Nirvana. On a tripod with Velvia, I am usually down in the mud for shutter
speeds. 1 sec - 1/30 sec. I use polarizers much of the time. In these
cases, I always use the C shutter in my lenses and use my 100 rather than
my 110 lens.

Metering with CF/CFi/CFE lenses in the C mode is really simple. When
metering, leave the lens wide open, that is, do not activate the DOF
preview. Take a meter reading. The shutter speed given in the camera
display will be what you would use at maximum aperture. Simply set this
speed on the shutter speed ring opposite maximum aperture on the aperture
ring. Now use the aperture/shutter ring lock button to select the
shutter/aperture combo that you want to use. Just use the shutter reading
that you get in the display as if it were an EV reading like you get from a
prism meter. But instead of setting a little red arrow to the EV number,
set the displayed shutter speed opposite the maximum aperture. Same thing
as EV only labeled differently.

So to use a 203 or 205 in C mode, you simply operate like it is a 501
substituting shutter speed for EV and the max aperture position for the
little red arrow. Simple.

The 203 and 205 cameras are magnificent cameras that are pretty much
backward compatible all the way back to the beginning.

Jim



From hasselblad mailing list:
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 
From: Austin Franklin [email protected]
Subject: RE: 203FE?

>  Austin Franklin wrote:
> >
> >Pretty much true, but the CFE lenses don't transfer the shutter
> information
> >to the body, so in manual mode, if you are using the shutter in
> the lense,
> >it works differently than the FE lenses, it works just like the
> CF lenses...
> >
>
> It was made for FE lenses that contain no shutter. So it stands to reason
> that the electronics were not set-up to recognize the C shutter.


Hasselblad discontinued the FE series 80, and the CFE is the standard
replacement.  I believe it would have been simple to just have the body read
the shutter speed of the CFE shutter (they already have an encoder on the
aperture, so why not on the shutter speed too?), when using the shutter in
the lense.  Then it would operate in Manual Mode just like it does with the
FE lense.  Instead, you have to put the body into one of the automatic
modes...but it's actually manual...and the display tells you "set" and
shutter speed.  The point is, they COULD have made it work exactly like the
FE lense in manual mode, I believe, with so little forethought and effort.
Perhaps the additional encoder for the shutter speed is somehow difficult,
though when speaking with people at the factory about this issue, they
didn't indicate it was difficult, the response was they just hadn't thought
of it.


> The bottom line is that the primary intent of the 203 & 205 is as focal
> plane cameras made for FE lenses. The added bonus of being able to use the
> C shutter in all other lenses is frosting on the cake.

Though true, the frosting is a bit 'unrefined'.  I don't believe they had to
make it so obtuse to use the CFE and especially the F lenses.

Hasselblad lense catalog, p. 29 "indicates the lense features databus
connections which transmit lens data to the exposure metering systems of the
200 series camera models", and the 80 CFE is so designated.  I think it's
reasonable to believe shutter speed IS part of "lens data", though
apparently, for Hasselblad, is it not, and they did not qualify it there.

> and 110FE lenses is Nirvana.

I certainly agree with that.  That lense is the primary reason I got into
the 200x series bodies in the first place, years ago.


> Metering with CF/CFi/CFE lenses in the C mode is really simple....

That ONLY works for using the shutter in the lense, NOT for using the FP
shutter with those lenses, and that methodology does not work with the F
series lenses.  There are no teeth in the shutter speed ring for the F
series lenses to couple with in the new 20x cameras.

> The 203 and 205 cameras are magnificent cameras that are pretty much
> backward compatible all the way back to the beginning.

It is a magnificent camera, I have never said otherwise, but I believe they
did not think things through very well with the user interface WRT F and CFE
lenses.  "pretty much" backwards compatible, I guess, but  Hasselblad
removed the aperture/shutter coupling for the "F" lenses (and FE), which
makes them more difficult to use.  You have to use some "tricks" if you
don't want to use the aperture pre-set, like setting compensation either
with the film speed dial, or using the compensation in some of the automatic
modes.

Now that I've updated my primary lenses to FE or CFE lenses, it works just
fine (except my one CFE complaint), but I really didn't like that they made
it so 'user hostile' toward the F series lenses...  I also didn't like that
I had to spend thousands of dollars to update my lenses, even to keep the
same functionality I had with the 2003 (coupled shutter/aperture).  I don't
believe that the problems with the F series lenses are obvious, at least
they weren't obvious to me.  I believe it's reasonable to have assumed that
they would have left the coupling teeth...especially since the new FE lenses
STILL have them!

Jim, did you have any F series lenses before you bought the 203?  If not,
then you wouldn't have run into this issue with using F lenses on the new
bodies.

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