Glue, Adhesives, and Camera Leather Repair Postings
by Robert Monaghan
Related Links:
Camera Leather .Com
Repair Solutions, Tools, Tips
Related Postings
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998
From: "Harold & Irene B." [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Leather for Rollei
Thought you might try calling these folks to see if they can help:
Leather/Cloth
1372 LaPlaya
San Francisco, CA 94122
(415) 333-3939
Harold
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998
From: Todd Campbell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] glue for Rollei leather
Check out Fargo Enterprises at www.fargo-ent.com They have all kinds of
adhesives for photographic use and have an online catalogue.
Hope this helps
Todd Campbell
Pacific InnoVision
[Ed. note: this may help some Bronica owners with loose coverings]
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996
From: Tony Zoccolillo [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] glue for Rollei leather
I think Pliobond is most often used but you could also use the two sided
tape that modern 35's so often use. I know Fargo Enterprises sells it, but
I think it's expensive (like $25-30 a roll). If you use Pliobond wet it
will remain more pliable and easier to remove the leather later. If you use
it like contact cement, it will be a solid bond and you'll need an
Xacto-knife to remove the leather.
Tony Zoccolillo
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998
From: "F.W. Stutterheim" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] glue for Rollei leather
I use nail varnish. (Is that the right word?). I mean the stuff wives put on
their nails. There is a transparant version. It works very well. I keep on
buying bottles. Recently my daughter was off with a one. They find there
are useful aspects to my hobby.
Ferdi.
Notes: Need to refinish chrome or other plating? Edmund Scientific offers
an electroplating kit that can do chrome, silver, copper, rhodium,
and gold. I am thinking of redoing one of my Bronica S2a so the chrome is
actually gold plated, sort of like the gold Hasselblads (the ones with
the $25,000+ solid gold price ;-). Caveat emptor, but interesting idea
;-)!
Notes: Need to get flat black inside a camera or lens project?
Investigate
Kodak #4 brushing laquer, which is often used in repairing old folder
cameras.
[Ed. Note: useful cheap source for silica gel, used to keep camera
gear and film dry in storage containers etc.]
rec.photo.equipment.35mm
From: [email protected] (JC17FL)
[1] Re: Silica gel source?
Date: Thu Jan 22 1998
Re: Silica gel source?
Try Wal-Mart - Crafts & Dried Flower dept.
$8.98 for a 2 pound jug with color indicating crystals.
Joseph.
Date: Thu, 19 Mar 1998
From: Eric Armstrong
To: [email protected], [email protected]
Subject: Re: Leatherette Conditioner
That might have been me -- I just know that Armorall tends to turn
brownish and gummy when it bakes in the sun. I went to using a product
called ClearGuard instead. It seems to work a little better.
Even though it works a little better, I'd probably not use it on my
camera, as the stuff is kind of greasy and gets all over the place. I
can't imagine anyone wants that on their expensive camera.....
For a camera with really beat up leatherette, this answer doesn't help,
but the best bet is to keep your camera and associated covered parts from
baking in the sun so the shrinkage is kept to a minimum. Keeping 'em
clean doesn't hurt either. If you have to try a vinyl conditioner, get
one that doesn't leave a residue.
hth,
-Eric
Stuart A. Pearl wrote:
> Somebody earlier advised against using Armorall or similar products (STP
> Son of Gun?) to condition the leatherette on Blad backs, bodies and
> prisms. What was the reason, and is there a suggested alternative
> product? Thanks in advance. - Stu Pearl
>
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998
From: Terry Price [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] GOT THE PATTERN CUTTIN, LEATHERETTE GLUIN BLUES!!!
I recently found an Automat MX in fairly decent shape except That it had
been left on a shelf, facing the sun for 20 years. The lubrication was
baked solid in the shutter and the leatherette disintegrated at a touch. a
local camera repair guy easily fixed the lubrication problem and got it
running like a clock. I ordered a sheet of leatherette from Fargo
Enterprises and it looked pretty good, complete withadhesive backing. I got
out my scissors and some paper and set about cutting out a pattern. It was
basically trial and error but I finally had a paper pattern that fit (sort
of). I tried using a razor blade, an exacto knife, and scissors to cut the
leatherette and finally found the best tool to cut it was the little
scissors on my Swiss Army knife. After several tries I gave up on making a
one piece job of it. I eventually had to make a several seams to make it
fit. Luckily the leatherette is a bit flexible and the seams do not show at
all. I polished up the old leather to match the new and now have a nice
looking and functional MX.
Before I try this again I'd like to know if there is any source for
patterns for the leather pieces on various Rolleis. It would sure make the
job a lot easier. If there is no source then maybe we could get together
and make our own patterns whenever someone takes a camera with good leather
apart. The leather pieces could be traced or scanned as a jpeg that could
be saved.
Terry
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998
From: "David C. Clark" [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] Re: Pattern cutting
If you use rubber cement, you can make a pattern with kraft paper. Put the
glue on the camera and the paper (oversized), let it dry, and carefully cut
the hole for the focus. Cut the paper with a razor blade while glued to the
camera. When you get to a spot where you need a new hole, mark the area,
remove the paper and make it.
If your new hole is a bit off, start over with a new sheet of kraft paper
using what you have as a pattern. Eventually you will get a perfect pattern.
David
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998
From: Richard Urmonas [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] help with mouldy leather
Help!
On one of my cameras the leather on the body has gone a bit mouldy.
Does anyone know how this can be treated without causing damage to
the camera and restoring the leather as much as possible.
Thank you.
Richard Urmonas.
[email protected]
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998
From: Bill Larsen [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] help with mouldy leather
Richard,
I don't know what is available in Australia. I have successfully used a
little liquid glycerin-based saddle and harness soap mixed with a little
antiseptic (such as Listerine) on saddles and tack. I also have used the
saddle soap without antiseptic on camera leather.
The technique is to use a soft brush such as an old tooth brush and brush
and wipe, brush and wipe. I would not saturate the leather. If it is
much more the surficial mold, this technique probably won't work. Finish
with the saddle soap without antiseptic.
Good Luck, Bill
[email protected]
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Reply to: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] help with mouldy leather
I can't lay my hands on it right now, but somewhere I have a little booklet
put out by the British Museum in London with instructions for restoring and
preserving leather. Maybe you can get hold of a copy.
I recall that beeswax, lanolin and glycerine are the main ingredients of
the leather dressing they use.
Bob
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998
From: william [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] help with mouldy leather
Forgot to say say:
the Bee's wax is a product called "Sno-Seal" the international bees wax
waterproofing and protection. This concoction makes my Rollei lelather look
like it was freshly factory applied.
Bill
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998
From: william [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] help with mouldy leather
Bob
I use a combination of black shoe dye and Bee's Wax to retone leather. Kewi
lq dye. I use plain vinigar to treat mold. I apply the vinigar with a Q-tip
to specifc places, then apply the dye with a clean one after it dries.
Bill
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998
From: Dan Post [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] help with mouldy leather
I have used rubbing alcohol to kill the mould, and as it evaporates very
quickly, there is not much harm to the leather. I then use a neats foot
compound- sparingly, and wipe after a couple of hours. I have used Fiebling
Leather Dye on areas that have lost their color- and so far have had no
trouple with the glue giving way.
If the lenses and the works have not been affected- then the mildew on the
leather should not be too deeply seated!
Lordy save us from the fungus among us!
[email protected]
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998
From: Bob O'Shaughnessy [email protected]
To: Hasselblad List [email protected]
Subject: Re: Cleaning/maintaining Hasselblad 'leather'...
Austin Franklin ([email protected]) said
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to maintain/clean (rejuvenate the
>shine of) the 'leather' used on the Hasselblad bodies, backs etc?
>
If the leather on my cameras is really dirty I'll try to use a Q-tip
and some diluted Murphy's Oil Soap, very, *very* carefully, of course.
Occasionally I'll follow that up with a Q-tip and some Armor-All, if I
want to make something shiny, but slippery.
Bob O'Shaughnessy
[email protected]
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998
From: "Noel H. Charchuk" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Any Hints on Cleaning Rolleis?
Try Mint Condition Leather and Vinyl conditioner, available only through
an Amway distributor. It is a lotion that gently cleans, restores some of
the lustre to rubber and plastic, and rejuvenates leather and vinyl. I
have made some really old equipment look a lot better. However, watch out
because they may try recruit you!! ;)Noel Charchuk
From: "Ivan S. Abrams" [email protected]
Newsgroups: uk.rec.photo.misc,rec.photo.misc
Subject: Re: What glue do I use for leather camera covering
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998
Nikon recommends Pliobond, which is a rubber-based contact cement available
at most hardware stores...
Geoffrey Inett wrote in message
>I'm about to take a camera to bits (well, only the front of it), and I need
>to peel back the leatherette covering to expose the screws I need to get to.
>The question is: what do I use to stick the covering back on again
>afterwards?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Geoffrey
From: "Mike" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Leather covering
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998
The method used to reattach leatherette will depend on the type of
leatherette. On most cameras with a thicker spongy type use a thin double
sided tape. For older cameras with a thin leatherette I use a thinned
contact cement. Make sure the body area is clean and apply the cement to
both the body and leatherette. Thinning the cement makes it a bit easier to
apply and insures easy removal in the future.
--
Mike Jenkins
Over 20 years servicing medium format systems
From: "skgrimes" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Leather covering
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998
Use shellac for leather (its what was used originally)
For leatherette use any contact cement (including rubber cement) (apply both
sides let dry, then contact) including a brand called Pliobond which can be
used either as a contact cement or as an ordinary glue.
Many modern leatherette (not leather) cameras use a heat sensitive
re-useable sort of fly-paper glue so nothing extra is needed.
SKG
--- S.K. Grimes -- Feinmechanik ----
From: Henry [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Leather covering
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998
Almost all old camera bodies were covered with leather not leatherette.
This includes most Kodaks, Graflexes,Rolleis, Zeiss and almost all other
German made cameras.
They adhesive used was shellac chips dissolved in alcohol. It is
relatively easy to remove old leather. Peel away the old leather, scrape
off the reside from the camera body and reapply using the shellac
solution. After pressing the leather in place, easy clean up with a damp
alcohol saturated with cloth.
Henry
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998
From: "Stuart A. Pearl" [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: More on Leatherette & Body Cleaning
While recently talking to the local repair guy here in Cleveland, I
inquired about safe methods for cleaning Hassy leather, metal and the
various other plastic body & lens components. This did not include
optical surfaces which we've covered in earlier posts. What prompted
this was a reception I shot this past Saturday. I was standing on the
sidelines when a waiter went flying by sloshing glasses of some liquid
in all directions. A portion ended up on my camera and flash. I quickly
wiped it off, guessing in the darkness that it was probably just water.
In response to my cleaning query, the repair tech recommended the
toothbrush, Q-type, Windex & flannel method. For cleaning leatherette,
he suggested the following: First, gently scrub the body with a soft,
worn, dry toothbrush to remove any large particles of crud. Next, spray
a very small amount of windex on the TOOTHBRUSH and gently scrub the
leatherette with this. Quickly wipe it off with some soft flannel.
Small amounts of saddle soap can also be used, but NOT Armoral.
Armorall looks nice, but some slippery residue will manage to come off
on your fingers, which will then transfer to other camera body or lens
parts.
For metal and plastic surfaces, use the Q-tips and pretend you're
detailing the Corvette convertible you can't afford because of your
Hassy investment. Again, spray a SMALL amount of windex on ONE end of
the Q-tip, clean the target area, and then use the dry end of the Q-tip
to wipe it off. Further clean/buff with the flannel cloth. You never
want to put any liquid cleaner directly on the camera or lens where it
can seep into optics, joints, gears, etc.
This tech is also a gun owner who wipes his firearms down after
every use. He believes camera equipment should be treated in the same
fashion, minus the use of the gunpowder of course; even if there were no
mishaps, a general flannel wiping should be done after each job to
remove your normal hand oils and fingerprints. This will extend the
life of the finish and enhance appearance. After all, he added "Guns
and Hassy's are both expensive, precision tools." I'm not a gun owner
myself, but I'll take his word for it. 8-)
- Stu Pearl [email protected]
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998
From: Rick Saunders [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [Rollei] Bottom Cover Plate Buffing
For touch ups.... try Black Satin nail polish... this is a laquer and is
VERY tough. It also matches the finish almost perfectly.
Rick Saunders
...
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998
From: "Terry Price (Edgecombe-Coles House)" [email protected]
Subject: RE: [Rollei] Bottom Cover Plate Buffing
>For touch ups.... try Black Satin nail polish... this is a laquer and is
>VERY tough. It also matches the finish almost perfectly.
>
>Rick Saunders
I've used this nail polish, it really does work. If it comes out too glossy
I use fine grade 3M artificial steel wool to buff it to the required finish.
Terry
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998
From: "Kotsinadelis, Peter (Peter)" [email protected]
Subject: RE: [Rollei] Bottom Cover Plate Buffing
I have used it also. The only caveat is that the nail polish does not
always dry thin and even.
Also, it does not cover with one coat on brass. What works is to use a
black magic market first to darken the brassing, then cover it with the
mail polish. Crude but it works.
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998
From: Dan Post [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Restoring old leather
Check with a good cobbler or Tandy's Leather for a cleaner-dewaxer, then use
Kelly's or Fiebings leather dye- then a good paste wax. I have used
neatsfoot compound on really dry leather and it has helped.
[email protected]
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998
From: Tony Zoccolillo [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Restoring old leather
Russ,
Fargo Enterprises (www.fargo-ent.com) sells a reconditioning past called
"Venician Cream" (or something like that) that is used to restore the black
color to leather. I've used it and it works well except it won't restore
the smoothness to the outer leather surface. It only colors leather black.
Fargo also sells some nice Morrocan (sp) leather that is close to a Rollei
TLR leather.
regards,
Tony Zoccolillo
(I swear I don't have any affiliation with Fargo)
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998
From: todd [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Plastic Cleaner
Hello Daniel,
A great product is Novus Plastic Polish. It comes in three grades. Grade
1 is basically a cleaner, grade two is a fine polish and three is a more
agressive polish. It requires a bit of "elbow grease" but it does a very
nice job on polishing the top surfaces of plastic screens. Of course,
the bottom side that has the image forming surface should not be
touched. Novus plastic polish is not corrosive tot he plastic, so you
can get it on the undersurface without worry, just don't poish the
undersurface. Washes off with water.
The number 2 grade is fine enough to polish paint as well, as long as
you are after a glossy surface. But don't rub too hard or you will rub
the paint off.
Novus Inc.
Minneapolis, MN, 55438
Toll Free (800) 548-6872
Todd
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998
From: "Kotsinadelis, Peter (Peter)" [email protected]
Reply to: [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] RE: Leather finish
Rolleinuts,
I found something by accident that I believe may interest you. I recently
picked up a Rollei T that had good leather but was a bit marked up. I tried
a product called Formula 2001 made by Turtle Wax. (I originally bought it
for my car. It is a top coating for vinyl/leather dashboards and seats and
has a UV protectant, something you need in California in the summer time).
Well, the best word for this is WOOOWWWW! It is not oily with residue like
some products and is leather scented. It made the black leather shine like
new. The marks on the leather, and new ones I made cleaning off some glue
with alcohol and acetone, disappeared. While this will not replace
something like Mink oil which actually treats and preserves the leather, if
you want your camera to shine this top coating is well worth looking into.
It is in a green bottle and is only about $3-4. Best applied with a cotton
ball on camera leather.
Peter K
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999
From: Peters [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] TLR case restoration
I had a scuffy Rollei TLR case and took it to a shoe repair shop to match a
color spray to it.
For anyone wanting to refinish a scuffy case, strap, or accessory pouch the
stuff to get is Nu-Life Color Spray. The color is "Chestnut", code #663.
Originally Rollei cases were sprayed with a "paint-like" leather dye.
Nu-Life #663 comes as close to the original as can be hoped. Anything not
to be sprayed can be masked.
There are probably 25 different colors of brown available, so most any
camera case can be matched to an original color. Just take the camera
case with you to match the case to the color on the cap. This stuff seems
to wear well also, no flaking, etc. Case comes out looking like new.
bob
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (LDaneman)
[1] Re: Mamiya C330 Leather Repair
Date: Sat Jan 30 1999
Uh Uh. Go to your local Nikon repair service tech and bum some leather repair
tape. It works better than anything I've seen and preserves the integrity of
your leather.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (JHENRYMCJ)
[1] Re: Mamiya C330 Leather Repair
Date: Fri Jan 29 1999
TRY WHITE SCHOOL GLUE WITH NARROW SPOUT UNDER THE LOOSE STUFF
rec.photo.equipment.misc
From: Stuart Willis [email protected]
[1] Re: Source for Leatherette?
Date: Thu Feb 11 1999
[email protected] wrote:
> The leatherette on three of my old Nikons (heavily used) is shot -
> dried, cracked and peeling. Does anyone know of a source for sheets
> of this material?
>
> TIA!
Over the years I have replaced leatherette on an Alpa, a couple of
Rolleis and several Rangefinder cameras.
The Morocco leather as forming the cover of expensive luxury desk
diaries is as near as makes no difference, the correct gauge. Does a
beautiful job. And you are not limited to black. A deep maroon Nikon
looks a million dollars. And the quality of the material can be far far
superior to that of the original leatherette. The commercial reality is
that once we reach the end of January any shop stocks are virtually
unsaleable and can be picked up for a song. $5 for a former $60 item.
For adhesive goto a woodworker's machinery supply-shop and buy a can of
disc cement. This is the adhesive used to cement sanding discs to their
backplates. It is thin, clear, and you will find that at any future time
the leather can be carefully peeled off - and then replaced without
further coating. Indeed, this is the very objective of the adhesive in
its intended role. Don't use conventional contact adhesive.
I have found that some of the older cameras such as Rollei, require
gentle application of heat (an aero-modellers teflon-coated mini-iron is
perfect for the job) to remove the leatherette. Most modern cameras seem
to use the adhesive type which I have described. And the Japanese
"leatherette" is usually a synthetic. "Plastic" if you prefer ;-)
Good luck with your project.
It could, and should be, perhaps the most satisfying photo equipment
renovation, ever;-)
HTH
Stuart Willis.
mailto:[email protected]
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999
From: Richard Knoppow [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Please recommend glue for leather panels
I believe someone posted to this list that the factory used shellac
dissolved in alcohol. Rubber cement works but will corrode any metal under
it. I've used contact cement like "Barge" cement or Pliobond but both tend
to form rather thick layers. I've not tried the shellack method.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
[email protected]
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999
From: Dirk-Roger Schmitt [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Please recommend glue for leather panels
From my knowledge Rollei service people use German made "Pattex" contact
cement (made by Henkel company).
Dirk
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 99
From: Godfrey DiGiorgi [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Leather panel glue recommendations
Fargo Enterprises at http://www.fargo-ent.com/index.html. They are a
supplier of camera repair tools and other supplies.
Godfrey
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999
From: Andre Calciu [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] painting the bright spots
use a sharpie permanent marker. the ink sticks well to brass and does not
build-up like other paints do. if you ever sell the camera make sure you
disclose the touch-ups.
andre
[email protected] wrote:
> Does anyone know how to touch up the worn, brassy spots on the metal edges of
> a Rollei TLR. Not necessary to the exposure, I know; but I'd like to clean
> the old gal up a bit.
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999
From: Marc James Small [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] Glue for leather: Forward from Bob Shell
Bob is still on the road, but sent me the following and asked me to forward
it to the List:
>While at the PMA show I bumped into Marty Forscher and asked him about what
>to use to glue the leather back onto Rollei cameras. He said for the older
>cameras to use shellac-based gasket cement from an auto parts store thinned
>with shellac thinner. He said this was what he always used.
>
>More recent cameras use a contact backing on the die cut leatherette, and he
>said to use contact cement thinned with contact cement thinner from a
>stationery or office supply store for these.
>
>So there you have it from the lips of the master.
>
>Bob Shell
Marc Small
Rollei List Panjandrum
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999
From: Dan Post [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Glue for leather: Forward from Bob Shell
Shucks, Marc- I knew that all along! :o)~
Well, it works- I did the top square on my 2,8E late last week, and it's
still sound and solidly on there! And a 2oz bottle only cost $1.05!
Not like some of those expensive camera items, like lubricants distilled
from unicorn earwax, or toe of frog....
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc James Small [email protected]
Date: Tuesday, February 23, 1999 4:37 PM
Subject: [Rollei] Glue for leather: Forward from Bob Shell
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999
From: "Kotsinadelis, Peter (Peter)" [email protected]
Subject: RE: [Rollei] Leather wax
It was Formula 2001 made by Turtle Wax in a green spray bottle.
-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Alexander [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 1999 10:36 AM
Subject: [Rollei] Leather wax
Some weeks ago, someone mentioned a wax, available at auto stores, which
restored the covering on cameras and did a wonderful job. Of course, I
deleted it somehow, but with my Rollei's covering now secured with the
renowned "gasket shellac", I'd like to finish the job to perfection.
Thanks to anyone who has the name of the wax.
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999
From: "Roger M. Wiser" [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Source for repair supplies: please refresh my memory...
> Recently there was some discussion regarding regluing leather panels. At
> one point, someone mentioned the definitive source for supplies of that
> sort. Was it "Arbor"? I can't remember. Please help.
If you need leather panels for your Rollei, contact :
Ulrich Barthel [email protected]
He is on this list. He sent me a side panel for my Rollei - fit perfect and
charged $5.
He is on this list. send him the model/ serival of your camera and the panel
needed.
Roger Wiser
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999
From: Tony Zoccolillo [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Source for repair supplies: please refresh my memory...
Hello,
An excellent souce for leather coverings, bellows materials and shutter
curtain materials is:
Leather/Cloth
1372 LaPlaya
San Francisco, CA 94122
I don't have a phone, fax or email (or any contact name). Send them a self
addressed stamped envelope and you get a swatch of materials and prices in
return. Currently, they are the only souce of shutter curtain material thin
enough for my needs (on Exakta cameras). They also sell a "how to" book on
bellows making (Romney's, I think) and custom large format lens boards. The
leather comes in various colors and styles. Although, I don't think they
have the light grey for the Baby Rollei.
Fargo Enterprises sells a Moroccan leather that's very nice (although a bit
thick, as is their shutter curtain material) and they also have a peel and
stick leatherette similar to that on the Rollei 35.
regards,
Tony Zoccolillo
From: Mel Brown [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Leatherette For Cameras
Date: Wed, 26 May 1999
DSLS1982 wrote:
> Does anyone know where to get plain black leatherette for Rolliflex and
> Hasselblads and where I might find special leatherette in lizard/snake skin or
> colors?
Here's the description from the catalog of Micro-Tools:
"Leatherette with a grain pattern very similar to the following cameras:
Canon C35AF, Konica FS-1, Leicaflex, Rolleiflex, Rollei 35, Sears 100MX.
The 4040 Grain is a very close match for Leica screw mount cameras." They
also have Morocco Grain Leather in black or brown.
You can call them at (800)359-2878 or browse their site at
http://www.micro-tools.com.
Mel Brown.
From the Rollei User Group List:
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999
From: Dirk-Roger Schmitt [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] Fixing of camera leather
Dear folks,
I remember of a discussion how to fix leather at the camera bodies after
repair.
I double checked an information: Rollei used for production and for service
the following glue: "Pattex" made by Henkel
[Ed. note: page was at (prior to 2/2003):
http://www.henkel.de/deutsch/index.html?special=home
This glue is still the first choice recommendation for any repair at the
leather coating. The advantage is that the leather can be removed later
quite easily for service.
Greeetings
Dirk
rec.photo.equipment.large-format
From: [email protected]
[1] Re: Cleaning Leather
Date: Mon Oct 04 1999
Do not use anything with silicone in it. Similarly abjure the use of
Neat's Foot Oil. Who wants there camera smelling like a Net's foot
anyway? Seriously, both of these can dissolve the glue holding the
leather to the camera, etc.
Lexsol brand leather cleaner and conditioner used to be available at
Tandy's. Once you've cleaned the camera, Lemon Pledge it. No kidding,
that's what Ken Hough recommends for Deardorffs.
[Ed. note: page was at (before 2/2003):
http://members.xoom.com/Deardorffcam/indexa.html
From: [email protected] (Richard Knoppow)
Newsgroups:
rec.photo.equipment.35mm,rec.photo.equipment.large-format,rec.photo.equipment.me
dium-format
Subject: Re: How to restore old camera's leather and paint
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999
Philip Wang [email protected] wrote:
>I have some old cameras that has worn leather and lost paint. The
>leather still strong, but the color not that black, and not shine. How
>can I restore those old camera to a better shape?
>
>What can I use to restore leather, both color and shiny?
>
>What can I use to re-apply new paint to the old camera - completely or
>partially?
>
>How about bellow on the folding cameras?
>
>Thanks,
>- Philip
If the leather is not rotted the best thing is to treat it with a
leather cream like Kiwi Leather Balm. After that use shoe polish, you
can also get leather dye at the grocery store. Use the dye and follow
it with shoe wax. That should bring the finish back, at least partly.
If the leather is really dried out its usually not possible to really
bring it back. You may be able to make it look nice but it will
develop pin-holes and will not be usable.
Dont use Neat's Foot oil, or if you do use very little, it tends to
soak in too quickly. Bellows leather it very thin and if the oil soaks
through it will make mush of the paper stiffeners inside.
Paint is a tougher matter since you must match the original paint.
You can get small bottles of black enamel at hobby shops and you might
be able to get a good match but even black comes in shades. Most
painted cameras have baked paints which are hard to match with
air-drying paint.
If you are talking about a wood finish it really takes disassembly
of the camera and refinishing as you would furniture. Old view cameras
are finished with a variety of "French Polish" which is a rubbed
lacquer finish. Often cameras are "restored" with oil or some other
sort of easy to apply matt finish, the real thing is the mirror-like
polish gotten by seveal layers of lacquer rubbed down between coats.
Lots of work!
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
[email protected]
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999
From: "Stephen J. Dunn" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] How to fabricate replacement leathers
Ferdi,
I had a conversation with Harry Fleenor regarding this topic. His insight
truly came from the perspective of American simplicity and ingenuity.
Take you used and worn out leather piece and place it on a photo copier
and copy it. Next cut it out and you have a perfect template to make your
new leather. Just past it atop the new piece and use patience and a sharp
pair of scissors and an a knife. Worked for me with far less effort than
I originally envisioned.
If you don't have the interest contact Ulrich Barthel at [email protected].
Regards
Steve Dunn
....
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999
From: Marv Soloff [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.large-format
Subject: Re: Re-cladding an old Technika
.....
For leathers suitable for cameras and bellows, suggest you contact
J.Hewit and Sons Ltd in London. Website is http://www.hewit.com
Tell them what you want the leather for. The thicknesses vary according
to use.
Regards,
Marv
From Nikon MF mailing list:
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [NIKON] Cleaning an old camera
[email protected] writes:
> what's the best method for cleaning exterior chrome on an old camera
I have had good luck using Semichrome with a que tip. It is a paste that
comes in a tube. Most Hardware stores have it. It also works great on
plastics (new and antique) and even on plexiglass windows. It will put a
beautiful shine on any metal and all plastics I have tried it on. Not too
good on textured leather or leatherette as it is difficult to polish out
of the grooves.
Good Luck, Gary
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999
From: "Alan" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Restoring lustre older lenses.
This will work on lenses ( not the glass ) bodies, both plastic and
metal, rubber grip surfaces on the lenses ( use a toothbrush) and makes it
look like new. Helps prevent the leather and vinyls from deteriorating.
Came upon it by accident by a fellow who works the camera shows. He had it
hidden under the table and was cleaning stuff and putting it out. I walked
around to the opposite lane and used my tele to see what he was using as
the schmuck wouldn't tell me. Been using it for four years now and works
great.
No problems whatsoever, I use it to protect all my equipment. We use it
in the store to clean trades with.
Go to Autozone or Discount auto parts and get black bumper and vinyl
protector. Its an Armorall type product, simply silicones immersed in a
fast drying acrylic base with a dark dye. Its in a black bottle with a
red and silver label. Use an old T-Shirt. Rub It in Let it dry. Use
sparingly, works great on cameras, golf stuff and other sporting goods,
ain't worth a crap on cars. Nothing works in Florida
The next morning you will have a lens or body that looks like the day it
came out of the box and will stay that way. Water falls off, many
benefits.
Actually at one time I was thinking of rebottling it selling it at the
camera shows for five dollars an ounce....a ten ounce bottle for five
bucks could make you 50 in return......five bottles could make you 250,
fifty bottles could make you a Leica Body owner......Hmmmmm
Date: 01 Nov 1999
From: [email protected] (WFTL Radio)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: Proper way to clean exterior of Camera
> Was wondering how to get the exterior of my cameras
>clean..they have a build up of dust and other dirt on them.
>
>Dan
Always err on the side of caution -- particulary with today's plastic
shell cameras where alcohol, for instance, can possibly mottle and gray
the black finish.
From my readings concerning camera restoration, collectors and curators
are even hesitant in their use of alcohol on even the chrome plated
cameras, opting instead for a very mild soapy solution, appled with a
Q-Tip. I've also used the ends of conventional matches ripped from their
book to get in nooks that Q-Tips can't...
In any event, avoid compressed air, for the most part -- or even blowing
on the camera with your lung power. The idea is to sweep the dirt away --
not lodge it into the camera, as compressed air can. But always keep the
Q-Tip (or match end) barely moist -- not wet.
To bring a certain shine to the camera body, I've used silicon impregnated
cloths, typically used for cleaning eye glasses -- though do NOT use these
on your lens glass, EVER.
Restorers have also been known to use a MILD Clorox solution to bring up
the engraved numbers (usually white) on black barrel lenses and shutter
speed dials.
And remember that the dirtiest part of your camera, on any given day, will
be the eyepiece glass that you look through... Long eyelashes, such as my
own, "paint" the eyepiece with oils every time i blink...
Joseph.
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999
From: "Kevin @ Camera Collectors" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Thanks for your replies!
For an adhesive I have used Pliobond successfully. Stinks, but for a
shorter time.
Kevin M. Bell
Camera-Collectors.Com
Vintage and Collectible Cameras
1-877-977-5091
http://www.camera-collectors.com
....
>To Jerry and others,
>
>Thanks a bunch for responding to my post regarding repair supplies. It was
>actually just the glue that I was after, not new panels. However, if I need
>a new panel in the future, now I'll know where to to.
>
>A word of caution to those of you who may be considering simple gasget
>shellac: I, too, read about this solution and I tried it. It works nicely,
>yes, but there is one drawback: stink. That's right, it has a stubborn
>burnt smell and I'm a little worried that it's here to stay. After a week,
>it hasn't subsided one bit. The brand I used is NAPA.
>
>And about my "interest in trees" ...very funny.
>
>>Dogbreath wrote:
>>>
>>> Recently there was some discussion regarding regluing leather panels. At
>>> one point, someone mentioned the definitive source for supplies of that
>>> sort. Was it "Arbor"? I can't remember. Please help.
>>> Thanks for your time.
>>>
>>> DB
>>
>>Arf!
>>
>>With a nick-name like yours I can see your interest in trees. The name
>>is not Arbor, it's Fargo Enterprises www.micro-tools.com
>>
>>Jerry
From Leica Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000
From: Dennis Painter [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Leica] Minor Cosmetic Cleaning of Leicas
Jeffrey Peterlin wrote:
> How would one (carefully) clean the leather of a IIIf?
> Is there any trick to this, or is it best to either
> leave it alone or pay for the CLA? Thanks.
I don't really clean mine but if I did I would go with the lemon oil
mentioned here. I would stay away from any petroleum based produce. No
real reason but I don't trust them to be 'kind' to the vulcanite.
Vulcanite is a natural hard rubber product.
Dennis
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] OT : Leather, thread, rivets, camera cases.
> From Dave Wyman : ...tell me the type of thread used in Rolleiflex cases?.
I was very happy to see good postings related the choice of threads to
repair Rolleiflex cases as well as advice about recycling the special
alligator clips at the end of Rolleiflex leather neck straps. I am sure
everybody here will agree that a part of the pleasure of using classic
cameras like the Rolleiflex is in the quality of details like the
real leather camera case with its embossings, etc...
Rebuilding a Rolleiflex leather case from scratch would be a real
challenge, although much easier that re-builing a home-made f/2.8
Planar at home ;-).
However, you can do related things yourself. From my own experience on
fabricating home-made leather lens cases (I was inspired by the shape
of old binocular cases, as well as Voigtl�nder lens cases of the
sixties) I used waxed linen thread I bought in a shop specialized in
crafts and related tools in Paris. I also bought special non-sharp
needles used for sewing leather with 2 needles. If you use regular
needles you should grind the tips so that you can sew with 2 needles
without damaging the thread itself. The needles do not need to be
sharp, at least because you will re-use existing holes. The kind of
sewing you do by hand with 2 needles is far superior to what you can
do with a machine because it will be much more resistant to wear. Even
if the thread is damaged, it will no fall apart like a regular one.
The waxed linen thread I used would be too big for a Rolleiflex case,
however, but the kind of synthetic thread, as suggested, used to
repair sails is probably the best if you are not a purist about
natural goods in your life. Linen is supposed to be stronger than
cotton. Waxed thread is really an advantage both for your hands and
for the thread itself because you'll have to pass it throuh the
leather many times, so it's a kind of a protection against wear.
Now about riveting. I thing the best is, as suggested, to have the
rivets attached by somebody who has the special riveting press used in
leather crafts. However if you want to do it yourself (which is a part
of the pleasure of maintaining at least something yourself on your
Rolleiflex : who will dare to disassemble his precious taking lens at
home ?), the kind of rivets (named in French "tubular rivets") used on
the Rolleiflex neck strap is very standard but you need at least one
tool to attach it properly. It is a kind of steel rod ended by a
spherical cavity that will exactly match the head of the upper part of
the rivet. It is necessary not to squash flat the head of the rivet
because doing so you'll prevent the lower part to expand inside the
rivet's head. Also the result would look terrible. On a professional
riveting press, you have also a device underneath to properly center
the rivet before pressing. Unfortunately the press and related set of
tools for different rivet sizes would probably cost you the price of a
honest Rolleicord... at least in France ; I've noticed that in the US
professional tools are much more affordable that in France.
If people are interesting in fabricating their own leather lens cases
(not for a Rolleiflex which has a fixed lens...), I would be happy to
send them, off-list, further information.
--
Emmanuel BIGLER
[email protected]
From: "NDW" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Yashica TLR Help Wanted
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000
Alvin Lee [email protected] wrote
> Since I recieved such great help with my other camera problem, I thought I'd
> try it again! I have several Yashica TLR cameras that have the leatherette
> removed to effect repairs, I have bought new leatherette material, but don't
> quite know how to go about putting it on since I have no template to work
> with, does anyone know of somewhere I can go to get something like a
> template for these cameras that would make it easier to replace the
> leatherette, maybe you've done this to your Yashi and have a favorite trick
> that I could use? any help would be appreciated.
I too, bought some leatherette supplies from Fargo, used Elmer's "rubber"
glue as suggested by camera repair whiz Paul Ebel. My first subject was a
Yashica D, nice lenses and just a super shooter, but much of the covering
removed to reach the chassis screws. I sat down with the material and 15
minutes later gave up! There was no way I could do this without it looking
bad, and wasting the nice material I bought. My wife is a very
talented/artsy person, and she studied the project and told me she's have
it done in an hour! What she did was simply make new templete's for the
sides, back/bottom, front, and top of the folding hood (I had already
removed the old material and cleaned the aluminum with paint
thinner) using
normal notebook paper and a Exacto knife until it fit perfectly, then
traced the paper templete onto the leatherette. A couple of times she
messed up, and just threw the paper away and started over. When she was
finished, the camera looked factory fresh! I have a Kalloflex TLR in for
repair that will need the same thing, but this time, I have a clue...
NDW
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000
From: [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] Re: Case repair
If the leather is coated, nothing will rejuvenate it. Lexol is the best
thing to use for top grain vegetable tanned leather.
I have almost an entire spool of seven cord unwaxed linen thread. It is
easy to resew if the holes are not torn through. You use a thick unwaxed
thread and thinner needles. You fray the ends of the thread so you can
thread the needles, then dye it black (magic marker). The stitch is easy.
I'd be happy to send a few yards of cord to anyone who can use it. Send
me
your address and email. I am also planning to build a last for a Rollei35
belt case this winter if anyone wants to borrow that.
David
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000
From: Eric Goldstein [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] preserving rollei cases
[email protected] wrote:
> Looking for suggestions on the best product to keep my rollei cases and
> straps soft and crack-free
Lexol cleaner and conditioner is the best stuff I have
found... recommended
to me by just about every leather repair specialist I've spoken with.
For repairs, if you can find a good tack shop nearby (a real one with a
saddle smith), that might be your best bet...
Eric Goldstein
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000
From: Edward Meyers [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] adhesive for leatherette
Available in the U.S. is Barge Cement. It also comes in small
tubes and in large amounts it's used by shoe repair people
to cement the soles and heels onto shoes. Very strong.
Available in shoe repair supply stores, if you can find one.
Ed
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000
From: Richard Knoppow [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] adhesive for leatherette
you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Does anyone on the list know what kind of adhesive to attach leather or
>leatherette to the metal surfaces of cameras?
>
>Thank-you
>rgds
>Shannon
The traditional cement is shellack in alcohol. It is very thin and can
be peeled off again.
There are several good contact cements on the market like Pli-O-Bond and
Barge Cement. They work well but may be too strong.
I understand Henkel Pattex is used by the Rollei factory. I don't know
what sort of cement this is and Henkel's web site is one of the worst
designed I've ever encountered. A PITA even with the T-1 line I have at
work.
DO NOT use rubber cement. It will oxidize the metal under it and
eventually rot the leather due to the free sulfur in it.
----
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles,Ca.
[email protected]
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000
From: "Richard Knight" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: How To Polish Metal On Older Classic Cameras (Leica, Etc.)?
Look in an auto parts store or motorcycle shop for a product called Never
Dull (comes in a small round canister). It's kind of a cotton wadding
impregnated with a very mild abrasive. Excellent for polishing any hard
surface.
Richard
"robot" [email protected] wrote
> What kind of polish or cleaner can be safely used to restore the metal on
> older cameras to shine?
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000
From: "Mark Bergman" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: How To Polish Metal On Older Classic Cameras (Leica, Etc.)?
It doesn't do well on Leica's or any other camera with a rough surface.
It leaves a residue which is extremely hard to get off and doesn't do much
for actually cleaning the camera. Based on my experience anyway.
Denatured alcohol and cotton cloth works as well as anything.
"Richard Knight" [email protected] wrote
> Look in an auto parts store or motorcycle shop for a product called Never
> Dull (comes in a small round canister). It's kind of a cotton wadding
> impregnated with a very mild abrasive. Excellent for polishing any hard
> surface.
>
> Richard
From Rangefinder Mailing List;
Date: Tue, 19-Dec-2000
From: Winfried Buechsenschuetz [email protected]
Subject: RE: Kiev, Voigtlander questions
Matthew Phillips wrote:
> First, I recently picked up a Kiev 4a, that appears to be in sound
> condition, at a bargain price. But all the leatherette panels are
> peeling.
> What readily available glue is recommended for reattaching these
> coverings?
You may use almost any kind of glue. I reglue leatherettes with an
general-purpose glue (the famous german UHU), a glue that is widely
used, mainly to glue porous materials. It is not ideal for glueing
leatherettes to metal bodies, but this is just a benefit in case you
have to remove it again some time. Also, its residues can be removed
with alcohol.
Do not use cyano-acrylate glue, it will be impossible to remove the
leatherette in case it is necessary. Also, I do not recommend any
solvent-free glue as it will take endless time until it is dry.
Be sure to remove residues of old glue. Do not use acetone as a solvent,
it may damage the leatherette (no danger of damaging plastic parts on
the Kiev 4).
Winfried Buechsenschuetz
From: ajacobs2 [email protected]
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: leatherette glue
Roland wrote:
> I've been taking apart an old Reflex-Korelle. The leatherette just peels
> of like it was stuck down with sticky tape. When I glue it back I want
> it to peel off in the same way at a later date if need be. What glue do
> I use to achieve that?
>
> Thanks,
> Roland
If it is true vinyl (leatherette) use 3m double sided tape #465
available from Micro-tools. or most 3m distributors. Only leather should
be glued.
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001
From: "Michael B. Levy" [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] Re: Savinf leather straps
Rollei Users list digest wrote:
> I have a very nice shoulder strap that I recently acquired. It looks like it
> was hardly used. However, the leather is very dry. It is not cracked. Any
> suggestions as to a preservative I might use?
Try Lexol a very good moisturizer/cleanser for leather.
I also use saddle soap to clean and soften leather, but Lexol will keep it
supple and retard cracking.
From Rollei Mailing List;
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001
From: Robert Lilley [email protected]
Subject: RE: [Rollei] Re: Leather Shoulder Strap Preservation
I have found that using too much Lexol actually causes the leather to dry
out faster. It seems to be just fine for treating leather surfaces but
not for the deep restoring of dry leather like straps, etc. For the
straps I would use good old saddle soap followed by mink oil - use a
little and really rub it in. Do that to my old army boots and they are
still like kid leather 30 years later. I also experimented with this on
some old FED / Zorki camera cases/straps and found it really enhanced
subtly of straps of the leather. I use Lexol in very small amounts on my
Rollei 3.5 F and that works fine.
Rob
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] Re: Lexol
Lexol is the best dressing for vegetable tanned leather - older cases,
straps, etc. It does contain some neatsfoot oil, but also has a lot of
lanolin. It is easy to ruin something with pure neatsfoot oil or
neatsfoot oil compound, but it is almost impossible to put on too much
Lexol.
Bellows are chrome tanned (usually goat) and will not absorb any kind of
dressing. Any kind of oil will just soak in like a sponge and ruin it.
The best you can do is put on a thin coat of wax and hope for the best.
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001
From: Gene Johnson [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Leather Shoulder Strap Preservation
Don't laugh,
An old timer in the leather business suggested rubbing a moderate coat
of Vaseline and buffing off with a cloth. IMO it works very well for
no cost. I buy generic stuff at the dollar store.
Gene Johnson
From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Rollei] Re: Leather Shoulder Strap Preservation
Somewhere I have a brochure put out by the British Museum giving the
formula for their leather preservative. As I recall mineral oil and
beeswax were the main ingredients. May have had lanolin as well. I'll
see if I can find it.
Bob
...
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001
From: ajacobs2 [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Equipment Repair
Art Salmons wrote:
> I was wondering what type of glue is best for re-gluing the
> leatherette on the camera body down.
>
> Thanks, Art
Depends, and there are several schools of thought on this. I've heard of
everything from nail polish to super-glue. Fargo Enterprises is AKA
www.micro-tools.com on the web and they are a supplier for the two major
ways we repair leatherette.
The old way was Pliobond another name for contact cement basically with
more thinner so it applies easier and dries flatter. This was popular
with real leathers used at one time. Then the two-sided tape family
came in play with leatherette, the most popular number being Scotch
465.....BUT it has a problem with certain leatherettes that degauss and
does pull off. So they came out with 9465PC (the PC standing for plastic
compound) and this works well on all plastic leatherette and comes in
1/4, 1/2, up to two inches and is not cheap. Certain tape companies
stock this particular item. The production cameras have die-cut parts
with the 9465PC already applied as an applique type operation. The tape
gets used in the repair end and the old residue cleans off relatively
easy. You don't want to stretch or distort the old leatherette coming
off. You go slow and us a moistened bamboo skewer with "Greased
Lightning". http://www.greased-lightning.com/ Even dissolves old
pliobond and is greatest on light seals and baffles, replaces alcohol,
naptha and a host of other stuff. You cut the 9465PC after adhering it
to the leatherettebackside and then after you made sure the surface of
the camera is clean as a whistle, apply as an applique. Excess again can
be removed with a bamboo skewer (dry)
Why bamboo skewers? I saw them being used in the Orient and they don't
mar the painted finish on most cameras, also they are cheap and
resharpen in a pencil sharpener and available at any major grocery
store....
The company's product, Greased Lightning, is a household cleaner with many
different uses. It cleans fiberglass tubs, bathrooms, tires, boats,
carpets and more, removing grease, grime, mildew stain and soap scum "like
a bolt of lightning." We use it on aircraft engines instead of gas, yet we
clean lab stuff with it, Moreover, it contains no acid or bleach, will not
erode surfaces and is biodegradable.
From Rangefinder Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001
From: "Jeffery Smith" <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: [RF List] Leatherette replacement on RF
Do most camera repair places do that kind of repair (i.e., gluing
leatherette to the body)? It seems like a hit and miss hassle that most
would prefer to forego.
Jeffery Smith
New Orleans, LA
-----Original Message-----
From: Winfried Buechsenschuetz [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [RF List] Leatherette replacement on RF
> Hi Jeffery,
> As far as I know, there is no one that can replace original Vulcanite.
> It is a
> material that was bonded to the camera body under heat and pressure,
> hence the name
> Vulcanite.
That's true. There is no material that equals Vulcanite in durability on
camera bodies. On my 1938 Leica IIIa, there is no flaw on the surface.
>I'm assuming it isn't a Leica, so finding a replacement that looks as
>close
> to the original will problably come from Micro-Tools.
I have quite a few rangefinders, but noone except the Leica has
Vulcanite on its body. Since most cameras hide some screws below the
surface, they use a synthetic material which can be torn off in most
cases. There are some materials, as the leatherette of some CanonetQL17,
which are very hard to peel off without damaging it. Also, in some
cases, the softeners have evaporated over time, thus making the material
very bristle and impossible to tear off completely.
However, Micro-Tools offers leatherette material with different
embossings. You may also look around among covers of photo-albums,
notebooks etc., or get a cheapo briefcase made of similar material to
replace it.
Winfried
From Rangefinder Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [RF List] Leatherette replacement on RF
[email protected] writes:
<< I have an RF camera that can be repaired but doing so will require that the
repairman tear the leatherette or vulcanite off the front of the camera
(auggghhh!). >>
Vulcanite is Leica's cruel joke on Leicaholics. It becomes brittle with age
and flakes off at the slightest excuse. I have recovered several user LTM
cameras, an M3, and an Olympus OM1 with 3M Safety Walk Nonskid Tape and have
found it to be significantly better in appearance and handling ease than the
original aged and battered Vulcanite. The nonskid tape is a resilient textured
rubberlike material sold in hardware stores for $1.99/ft. in a 2"
width. It comes in black, grey, and white colors with an adhesive back. The
2" width is perfect for Leica bodies. I wouldn't recover a valuable collector
quality Leica but it is just the thing for a hard working user camera. You
can also play around with people's minds. I covered a IIIc in grey and panic
fellow Leica fans when they think I am taking a Luftwaffe model on hiking
trips in the Appalachians.
The process is quite simple. Remove the cracked Vulcanite from the camera.
That's the easy part. Next make a paper cutting pattern for the nonskid
material. Be very precise in marking the position and outline of the lens
mounting flange, the strap lugs, and the baseplate lug cutout. Indicate the
exact position of the two shell mounting screws and the slow speed dial on
the LTM models. The paper pattern should wrap around the body shell and be
joined just below the center of the lens mounting flange. When you are
satisfied that the pattern is as good as you can get it, cut the nonskid
material to the same shape using a sharp Exacto knife. Since the 2" tapeedges are
perfectly straight, I have found it easiest to use one side for the
upper edge of the covering, the part that fits next to the top plate. Use a
leather punch to cut precise holes for the strap mounting lugs and the shell
mounting screws.
When the covering is cut to shape remove the backing paper and align it to
the camera. The sticky adhesive permits some movement as long as it isn't
pressed hard to the underlying surface. When you are satisfied that the
nonskid material is correctly positioned, press it into full adhesion. The
adhesive sticks pretty well immediately and sets quite strong within 24
hours. Check to see that the baseplate fits correctly. Slight corrections can
be made with a sharp razor blade. If you've made an unfixable error, rip it
off and try again. The stuff costs only about $2 per camera.
When you are done you will have a Leica that looks as good as new (at least
the covering) and handles a lot better. True to its name, the nonskid
material permits a firm grip on the camera and absorbs and cushions slight impact
better than the factory covering. If you hate Vulcanite and don't want
to spend $100 on a custom cover give this a try.
Larry Z
From Rangefinder Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001
From: Jon Ladd <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: Leatherette replacement on RF
I had emailed Leica about recovering my M3 with the M6 style covering.
This is their response:
Subject: Re: M3 Vulcanite Replacement
Yes, we can do that. The cost would be approx $150.00 Please send your
camera to the address below, ATT:Service Dept.
Dave Elwell, Parts & Service
Leica Camera Inc
156 Ludlow Ave
Northvale, NJ 07647
Phone 800-222-0118 ext 225
Fax 201-767-3438
Email [email protected]
I didn't do it, I want to sell the M3 since I never use it. Vulcanite is
only bad on the back door and small fix under the lens mount anyway
From Rangefinder mailing list:
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: RE: [RF List] Leatherette replacement on RF
[email protected] writes:
<< I remember that Ritz Camera used to take NEW SLRs
and glue a rubber exterior to them to make them "ruggedized" in their words.
>>
Their "ruggedized" stuff was almost identical to the 3M rubberized non-skid
product. Just the surface design was different. The Ritz pattern was tiny
pyramids in a regular order. The 3M pattern is a randomized textured surface.
I forgot to mention that 3M makes the non-slip material in a 4" width too.
Just the thing for bigger cameras.
Larry Z
From Rangefinder Mailing List;
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [RF List] Leatherette Replacement (3M Non-Skid Tape)
[email protected] writes:
<< Can you give me a 3M catalog or item number for the non-skid material you
talked about in your recent post? >>
I don't have the catalog number but the official product name is 3M Safety
Walk Nonskid Tape. Many hardware stores carry it in a counter display with
1", 2", and 4" sizes.
Larry Z
From Rangefinder Mailing List::
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: RE: [RF List] Leatherette Replacement (3M Non-Skid Tape)
[email protected] writes:
<< Somehow, I envision that it would be too thick for a camera body surface.
>>
The "3M Safety Walk Nonskid Tape" should be available from any dealer that
carries 3M products. Or at least the dealer should be able to order it from
his supplier. The tape is a rubberized material about 3/64" thick with an
adhesive coating on the back. The UPC number is 51131 59507. At least that's
the UPC number for the grey sample of the tape I'm looking at now. I
originally bought the tape to put on a slippery portion of my boat deck. I
started out covering cameras with it when the leatherette on a 25 year old
OM1 started coming off, then graduated to replacing the vulcanite on user Leicas.
Quite frankly, the recovered Leicas look are good as those covered with new
Vulcanite and far better than those covered with age worn and cracked
Vulcanite. They also handle much better. This may be heresy to died in the
wool Leica fans but Vulcanite is a 1930s era gutta percha like product.
Plastics and rubber technology has improved quite a bit since then. Even my
Leica repair guru, Sherry Krauter, admires the recovered product although she
would never use it on a collectible Leica for fear of upsetting the
traditionalists. Instead she uses a type of sealing wax to fill in cracks and
holes.
I also find the 3M product ideal for providing grip strips on laptop
computers. A few strategically placed strips of the stuff will helf keep the
computer in slippery hands. A dropped laptop can ruin your day.
Larry Z
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001
From: Peter Rosenthal <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: re-glue black hasselblad 'leather' strip...
Mike...
I wouldn't use rubber cement. It's a mess to deal with and is too thick and
gummy to finesse any glue job. The "roll-on" adhesive Hassy uses is fairly
worthless in terms of really holding anything down although it's amazing it
does as well as it does for as long as it does considering its not even
glue. Go to the hardware store and buy a tube of Pliobond cement. Be sure
to remove ALL old stickum with your finger on the body and covering, it'll
roll right off if it's not too warm, you can use lacquer thinner on a Qtip
to remove any stubborn residue. Put a gob of the glue on a print of an old
ex-girl friend and use a Qtip to spread the glue on just the covering, not
too thick now, just enough to make it wet. Put it down right away as it
loses it's tack pretty fast and put it down in sections. Glue, stick, glue,
stick and so on until your done. Use an old toothbrush to "brush" the covering to make sure the glue is stuck evenly, not just where you pushed
with your finger. Be sure to throw away the picture, you shouldn't have
them laying around anyway.
It'll stay on until you want it to come off without tearing the covering and
leaving a lot of dried glue globs to be removed. Oh yeah "NO SMOKING" while
doing this. Loose covering would be the last of your worries. Stand back
and admire your handiwork.
Peter
--
Peter Rosenthal
PR Camera Repair
111 E. Aspen #1
Flagstaff, AZ 86001
928 779-5263
To: [email protected]>
From: William Gartin [email protected]>
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002
Subject: Re: [camera-fix] Replacing Leather
Kenith Ryan wrote:
> I ordered some leather from Micro-tools to replace the leatherette on an old
> camera. It looks like it will work great except for one problem. The front and
> back sides of the leather are black (which is what I need) but the edges are
> white. A friend recommended putting black shoe polish around the white edge. I
> thought about Marking the edge with a permanent marker, such as a Sharpie.
> What would you do ?
>
The Sharpie might work, though the dye could fade over time. A touch of
black shoe polish might be better, but would likely smudge off for a while.
For something more permanent, I once used something called Parade Black from
Kiwi to blacken the top of a light-brown leather inside-the-waistband
holster. It's held up beautifully, and doesn't bleed, fade or rub off, even
in hot Texas summers. Just a thin amount right on the edge would likely do
the trick. You should be able to find this in any shoe polish section. I'd
test it first on a scrap of leather, just to be sure.
--
William Gartin
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001
From: "srosenbach" [email protected]>
Subject: Re: Body coverings for Soviet rangefinders...
Thanks, Jay!
Hey, look what I stumbled across since I posted this question --
Micro-Tools has a section on their web site for "Restoration",
including a nice selection of leather and leatherette. You can see it
at
http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/restore.htm
>>If the covering is still intact but discoloured, you could try
painting it black (or any preferred colour). Many of the "healthy"
looking FED or Zorki 1 I've been getting appeared to have received
this rejuvenative treatment.
That's the case I have - my Fed 5 nylon square pattern is completely
intact, just not really nice and black. What would be good to use to
paint it? (I was thinking of just trying some black shoe polish?)
Thanks, Jay - wishing you all the best,
SteveR
....
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001
From: "friedaandbrandy" [email protected]>
Subject: Re: Body coverings for Soviet rangefinders...
For "tired" looking leather, paticularly where a scuff or abrasion
has removed the outer colour and is showing the natural leather look
through underneath, I have found an easy solution is to use a thick
point permanent marker like a "Bic". Run the point (preferably a
chisel type, it's quicker) North - South, then East - West over the
whole leather surface, with maybe a second coat over the scuffed
areas. Let it soak in and dry for 10 minutes. Then, using a
cotton bud - you'll probably wear out maybe 6 or so during the
exercise - dip the bud tip in some "Armorall" or similar
leather/vinyl restoring liquid from your local auto parts store, and
brush the stuff over the leather in the same North - South, then
East - West pattern as you did with the marker pen. The Armourall
doesn't soak in very much, except over the scuffed areas, so you
don't need much to do the whole camera. Leve for 10 minutes and
repeat. After 30 minutes or so when it's dried and the stickiness
gone, rub over with a hankerchief to polish it up. You'll be
amazed - it ends up looking like new, and the scuffed areas are
generally now hidden unless there's actually a gouge.
I've tried actually painting shoe dyes and texture paints
but they don't actually completely soak into the leather, so you're
left with a slight surface pattern that looks wrong. The marker pen
dye goes completely into the leather and doesn't leave any such
surface traces. I've found the "Bic" ones best because the dye is
matt, whereas some others leave a slight surface shine after they dry.
I've just renovated an old Moskva-5 and a Vest Pocket Kodak
Special using this treatment and you wouldn't believe how good they
both look now. It's not bad for old scuffed leather shoes either,
but that's another story .....
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everybody!
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001
From: "wanatunda" [email protected]>
Subject: Re: Leatherette
Here ya go
http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/restore.htm
--- In russiancamera@y..., "prmurat" prmurat@h...> wrote:
> Does any one knows where I could find thin leatherette? I cut already
> all my binders for this "precious" material... real thin leather will
> be great too, nut it seems that in the Bay area (SF) you can find
> only thick leather or heavy table top plastic. Any website ?
> Thank you
> Philippe
From leica topica mailing list:
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001
From: Michael Darnton [email protected]
Subject: Leather straps
I just bought myself one, and the maker, Seth Levine at M-Classics
(mclassics.com) reminded me that he doesn't advertise them himself,
relying on word of mouth. So here's the word of mouth: a great retro
leather strap, like Leica used to make (unlike, and better than,
anything currently available elsewhere), for $23. I just ordered two
more, so now I'll have four. I think everyone with a Leica needs at
least one. :-) They start out stiff, but about six months of use loosens
them up nicely. He doesn't mention them on the website--write him an
e-mail if you're interested in the details.
--Michael
From camera makers mailing list:
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001
From: Michael Hendrickson [email protected]
Subject: [Cameramakers] Keeping Old Leather Bellows Soft
Hello,
I have yet another recommendation. History first: About 18 years ago I
came up with the same question so I called Marty Forscher Camera Repair
in New York (from California). Mr. Forscher was busy but one of his
assistants asked and relayed back to me that Mr. Forscher used Lexol. I
bought some at a shoe repair place, tried it on a very stiff bellows on
a Seneca 8x10, and it worked like a charm. Comes in a brown container;
it's a liquid. I found the following to be workable: Apply fairly
liberally and wipe off, allow to dry. Might take more than one
application. Buff lightly after it's dry to knock off the excess. Works
real well on leather jackets too.
Make sure that what you're treating is really leather!! Over the years
there have been some marvelous leather look-alikes that were actually
vinyl or something! Lexol is no good for that!
ALSO, NOW, A QUESTION: Does anyone know where I can get very thin
leather suitable for bellows-making???? I hear that Moroccan is real
good for this but I can't find even a sample anywhere! Please help if
you know!!
Thanks.
--Michael Hendrickson
[email protected]
from leica topica mailing list:
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002
From: lindsay melwin [email protected]
Subject: RE: Cosmetic restoration
For black leather I've found that black liquid shoe polish (really just
a water solution of a black dye) is effective at hiding scratches and
gouges in the leather. After the leather has thoroughly dried, I follow
this with several coats of ordinary (wax-type) shoe polish to restore
some gloss to the leather. This has done a nice job on Speed Graphics
recently.
....
from leica topica mailing list:
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002
From: Douglas Sharp [email protected]
Subject: RE: [RF List] Cosmetic restoration
Just a few of the things I've used for repairs and restoration.
I don't know whether Edding Paint pens are available in the US, but, I use
a black one and a silver one for touching up chipped paint and aluminium on old
cameras, the paint etches into the metal and binds any rust or similar.
There's also an Austrian company "PASCO" which makes a fine filler powder
(which can be stained) for use with Superglue (cyanacrilate) for filling
out chipped bakelite or plastics.
Liquid solder is also useful on some metals.
There are tubes of liquid enamel for repairing chipped enamel sinks and
bathtubs also useful as a filler.
Epoxy putty (2 components) such as "Milliput", from any good
model shop, is also very good. (even for reconstructing small parts).
Model shops are a good tip for paints - acrylic, enamel or whatever- you name it
they stock it - also for liquid silicon for making molds to cast in epoxy resin
- I've done this used this for making replacements on bakelite cameras.
As to your sticky lens, try wrapping it in a warmed cloth for 5 minutes then
work it back and forth until it loosens.
Douglas
from nikon mf mailing list:
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002
From: "rick_housh" [email protected]
Subject: Re: glue
I've recently researched this over the Internet, and there are lots
of different opinions. However, the current best advice seems to be
to use auto gasket shellac, the kind that never hardens, and is
soluble in alcohol. Last time I did this I used Permatex brand #2
Type "Form-a-Gasket Sealant", which is claimed to be "Non-Hardening,
Pliable, Sealant".
Contact cement is definitely not suggested by most, as it becomes
very permanently bonded upon mating, so much so that it is impossible
to separate the pieces again without removing a layer of the
leatherette.
Rubber cement can be applied two different ways. The first is to use
it as one would contact cement: apply it to both surfaces, then mate
them when it becomes tacky. This reportedly creates the same problem
as contact cement. The bond is too permanent, and causes a layer of
the leatherette to tear off if it is ever removed again. The second
is to put a thicker coating on only one surface and mate the surfaces
immediately, in which case it stays a little tacky, much as the
shellac gasket sealant, and is easier to remove later. However, some
of the commentators say it contains chemicals which will corrode
metal surfaces over the long term.
The gasket shellac remains tacky and is reportedly non-corrosive,
being alcohol-based and shellac being a natural ingredient made from
the secretions of the insect Laccifer lacca. It's the shiny coating
on M&M candies, apples, and the base for time-dissolving medicine
capsules, after all, so how corrosive could it be? I found it sticks
very well, but allows separating the leatherette later with very
little trouble, and any residue is easily removed with a little
rubbing alcohol. It is very thick in the gasket sealant form, so I
dilute it with alcohol before applying it, although it works if you
don't, it's just a little thick, and must be spread manually. You do
want it thick enough to "pad" the leatherette a little to obscure
surface irregularities in the underlying surface. Another problem
with contact cement is that it sticks the leatherette to the other
surface so well the irregularities in the underlying surface tend to
be very visible in the surface of the leatherette.
I have only recently started using gasket shellac, so I can't swear
to its long range effects, but it sure does seem just right in my
short run tests.
- Rick Housh -
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002
From: "rus_col2001" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stripping vulcanite off a Fed-1
Hi,
The best way to strip vulcanite is to heat it with a hair-dryer. This
will soften both the vuncanite and the glue. This is also a handy
method for replacing vulcanite. By heating it up it transforms from a
hard material to the consistency of leatherette. It is then easier to
mold it to the shape of the camera - do it quickly though because it
hardens again very quickly. Any gaps left after applying the
vuncanite to a camera can be filled with black wax which,if you are
artistic enough, you can mold the pattern of the vulcanite into.
Gary.
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002
From: "srosenbach" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stripping vulcanite off a Fed-1
Comrades Jay & Jimski!
Here is another source of leather for camera coverings - Rick Oleson
pointed me to it:
http://www.tandyleather.com/products.asp?dept=27
Best regards,
Comrade Stoisha
From Camera Fix Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Re: How to repair a leatherett starting to peel off
An X-acto chisel does a good job, or an artist's palette knife that's had a
bevel ground on it. Much better than a screwdriver. A wood craver's knife
set has lots of neat knives usable with leatherette. I like the crescent
shaped blades, and the carver knives are a bit thicker and stronger than the
artist's knives. Pulling on the leatherette causes that ugly distortion, you
have to go *real slow* with acetone or nail polish remover and persuade it
off with the palette knife.
---
Robert
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: Best way to preserve cameras
Fernando Gomes at [email protected] wrote:
> I heard somewhere to don't keep it in the leather case, is it true? Is it
> due to the acid used to the leather treatment not being removed in the
> process?
I've bought old cameras and generally found those in leather cases to be in
better operating condition than those not in cases. I don't think keeping
the camera in a leather case will harm it.
> I also think that to keep shutter working it is advised to use the camera,
> at least from times to times, if not it can get sticky, is it true?
> Any other tip?
Yes, fire the shutter periodically, particularly at the slower speeds, to
keep the timing mechanism moving freely. If it is an auto diaphragm lens
on the camera use all of the f-stops while firing the camera to keep the
diaphragm mechanism loose. If the camera has a self timer run it several
times. Basically operate any mechanical systems the camera and lens have.
Wipe off the outside of the camera periodically to remove surface dust.
I have to confess that now that there are several hundred cameras in my
collection I just don't have the time to do this to all of them, but my
favorites get this treatment several times a year.
Bob
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002
From: "Jay Javier" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Re: Best way to preserve cameras
Tom
The mildew was brushed off with a stiff shoe brush. Then some
"Armor-All" was squirted on the leather surfaces. followed by rubbing with an
old rag to take out what's left after brushing. Then an application of brown
shoe wax followed. When the wax set, buffing followed, just like with shining
shoes.. The cases have so far been mildew-free since they were cleaned about 6
months ago. BTW, they no longer smell like Russian camera cases! :) or :( ?
Jay
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002
From: "friedaandbrandy" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Best way to preserve cameras
-Hi, guys
Another problem area - admittedly a small one - is
that some type of lens caps have a thin felt or sponge-like inner
layer, presumably to make sure the cap stays on without scratching
the lens outer ring. Trouble is, these apparently absorb moisture
over time and encourage oxidisation, especially on aluminium-bodied
lenses. For example, I have a really nice Altissa Altix-N c. 1959,
that came with a standard f2.9 Meyer 50mm plus 2 accessory Meyer
lenses - an f4.5 35mm and an f3.5 90mm. These 2 lenses look
absolutely mint - I honestly don't think they have ever been used or
even fitted to the camera at any stage! However, both came with
tight-fitting foam-lined lens caps and sure enough, around the
contact area was a nice layer of blue/green oxidisation. With
some "brasso" metal cleaner and an hour or so of elbow grease - with
some internal lubrication for me from the appropriate number of
beers, naturally - I got the oxidisation off. However, a miniscule
amount of metal has been removed too, because "brasso" is mildly
absrasive hence the lens caps don't fit so very tightly now. I now
keep the lens caps separate from their lenses, to avoid the same
problem recurring. Obviously it would be better to fit the lens
caps to protect the optical surfaces, but that would be encouraging
the oxidisation again. Does anybody know of any miracle stuff -
sort of the "heel balm" of aluminium oxidisation - that could be
smeared thinly around the contact area to prevent the dreaded
blue/green stuff reappearing? I've thought of vaseline, but I'm
worried some might work its way onto the optical surfaces! Pete
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002
From: "Robert Chiasson" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Best way to preserve cameras
Maybe something in a wax? Or saran wrap inside the lens cap?
------
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002
From: Paul Shinkawa [email protected]
Subject: Re: Best way to preserve cameras
Pete:
Military style brass belt buckles start out with a
thin lacquer coating that prevents brass tarnishing
(until it scratches) could some type of thin lacquer
coating be brushed on? How about thinned clear nail
polish? It's also removable later.
Leitz lenscaps come with a burgundy felt liner on the
inside rim. Twenty-five years ago I replaced the ones
on my Summitar and Summaron with a strip of Dr.
Scholl's Moleskin. I think I had to glue it in. It
still works great even though it is neither burgundy
colored nor E. Leitz!
-Paul
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002
From: [email protected]
Subject: RE: How to repair a leatherett starting to peel off
The best practice is to cerefully remove the leatherette, clean it and the
camera. Apply contact cement to both surfaces(avoid the water based like the
plague), let dry and carefully put the leatherette back in place. Press down
the entire surface and all will be fine. The major advantage of Contact cenent
is that it can be removed later if repairs are needed.
Nathan Dayton
www.commiecameras.com
From Russian Camera Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002
From: "Jay Javier" [email protected]
Subject: Re: How to repair a leatherett starting to peel off
Fernando
Have you tried using rubber contact cement which cobblers use to repair shoes?
What you could do is strip the leatherette off, clean the surfaces with some
acetone (clean as well the metal parts of the camera on which the leatherette
was attached). Brush rubber contact cement both on the leatherette and the
camera, let dry, and stick.
Jay
From Russian camera mailing list:
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002
From: Ron Schwarz [email protected]
Subject: Re: How to repair a leatherett starting to peel off
>As I like some manual work, but never having repaired a leatherett before,
>can you sugest me any way to do it? Any site with information about it? What
>kind of glue should be used? The leatherett seems ok, just taking off the
>camera at the edges, should I glue only the edges, or should I take it all
>off and glue it all (or replace it for a new one)?
I generally use pure shellac on older cameras. It's a good match for the
thin, delicate leatherette frequently used. Contact cement is much
stronger (too strong IMO), and it's hard to lay down a thin enough coat
(esp. when you consider that like shellac, you have to lay it down on both
surfaces). If you contact cement a piece of old, thin, fragile leatherette
to a camera, you're pretty much consigning it to destruction if you ever
need to peel it off again. (Unless you want to bathe the thing in strong
solvent, and risk having it migrate dissolved cement -- and solvent -- into
the camera's innards.)
Shellac was the standard "contact cement" used for many (if not most) older
cameras. It takes a little longer to dry, but once dry, it's plenty strong
for the task, and amazingly thin. And, it won't fight you tooth and nail
should you ever need to separate the leatherette later on.
From Russian Camera mailing list:
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002
From: Bob Shell [email protected]
Subject: Re: How to repair a leatherett starting to peel off
Good information. Shellac was what the factories used until the late 60s
when they began switching to synthetic glues. Nowadays the leatherette is
self sticking with a peel-off backing, and intended to be replaced if
removed, not reglued.
If you use contact cement you need to apply it to *one* surface only and
stick the leatherette on while the glue is still wet. Putting on both
surfaces and letting semi dry before pressing in place makes a permanent
bond that is not easily freed. Contact cement can be thinned for easier
use, I think I recall that acetone is what they specify. Thin it a bit
and apply a thin layer with a small paint brush.
Bob
From Russian camera mailing list:
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002
From: Ron Schwarz [email protected]
Subject: Re: How to repair a leatherett starting to peeloff
>bond that is not easily freed. Contact cement can be thinned for easier
>use, I think I recall that acetone is what they specify. Thin it a bit
>and apply a thin layer with a small paint brush.
They sell a special thinner for it, I tried everything I could think to try
back in the good old days (incl. acetone) and generally what happened was
that the already thick goop would cure into a snot-like ball and sit there
in the thinner. Very strange stuff. I think the thinner used MEK, but
it's been 15+ years since I've used it, and they may have changed it since
then (or taken it off the market).
A normal solvent (i.e. acetone) may very well work to thin it *before* it
dries out to a certain point. It's really strange stuff once it starts
drying out in the jar, but the "official" thinner would restore it to
usability. (It bugged me that I'd never be able to get anything near full
use of a jar before it became useless due to drying out from the short
exposure to air when I was brushing it onto a camera, so I tried a variety
of solvents before I discovered that they sold a "real" thinner.)
From Russian camera mailing list:
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002
From: Paul Shinkawa [email protected]
Subject: Re: How to repair a leatherett starting to peel off
Shellac! I wondered what that stuff was. Real shellac
is dissolved in denatured alcohol. It can be thinned
with ETOH (or Everclear)and removed the same way. The
thinner you make it, the faster it dries. Too thin and
it will flow into the camera innards and dry.
-Paul
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002
From: [email protected]
Subject: Glue choice: How to repair a leatherette
Quoting Paul Shinkawa [email protected]:
> Mine also came with a bit of peeling leather (real
> leather not vinyl). If yours is leatherette
> (artificial) it may mean that it has been replaced
> once already. Before I contact-cemented the loose
> corner back on, I put a little pressure on it and
> peeled it back about half of a centimeter in order to
> clean it.
The Kievs had real leather until 1973-74 (anybody know exact time?)
Real leather normally does not peel. The leatherette used after this time does
peel, in almost all instances. I use Pliobond for both leather
and leatherette. It stinks but works very well.
The Kiev (or contax) skin must be peelable, since there are screws and places
that are covered by the skin (around self-timer and on the front plate). For
this reason the Kievs can't use permanent covering, like vulcanite on Leicas
and FEDs.
The glue used on Kiev covering must hold well, and yet allow peeling for
service. Pliobond is a bit too strong (hard to peel), but I did not have a
chance to try anything else.
Yuri
From: ajacobs2 [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Has anyone reglued their leather on the mf camera?
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001
Eam 77 ck wrote:
> I bought a beautiful mamiya C330 except that the leather is starting to peal
> around all the edges. Has anyone fixed their own leatherette? Or can someone
> tell me what the proper glue/cement is? Any and all opinions greatly
> appreciated.
You do have choices here: From previous posts..
Silicon rubber cement
Regular Rubber Cement
Super Glue
Pliobond Contact Cement
and probably last of all concrete cement or Mother Fletchers Denture Powder.
In other words, somebody used something different ( sometimes strange)at
different times.
Most will work BUT....
If it is the grey -or- black leatherette used on the Mamiya and I was
repairing it.
1)I would remove the entire piece slowly and carefully so as not to
stretch or deform it. Just glueing the edges many times causes a bulge
or lifting again as you can'r really clean it well.
2) I would use either Naptha, Lighter Fluid, a solvent cleaner like
Greased Lightening or GOO-be-GONE to clean the leatherette and the
surface it covered. And that includes checking screw tightness and
alignment while it is apart, etc.
3)I would place the leatherette between two heavy books to get it
straight again as they sometimes curl from lifting. Some times I have
used a hair dryer first to soften it VERY SLIGHTLY and then between two
books.
4) Then if it is used to cover screws and plates for access again, I
would use a two sided tape made for leatherette and cameras with a
"plastisizer". This is not carpet tape, nor foam tape, nor automotive
side strips tape or tape used for matting. It is production tape made
for putting leatherette and similar items to metal or other plastic, or
leatherette back on cameras. The NUmber and Brand is: Scotch Brand
FP9465PC. The "plastisizer will adhere to plastic without failing after
a time. Many tapes fail or will lift as the
leatherette is slick and the bond will fail. This is how most cameras
are made today. The tape is already adhereed to the leatherette, they
peel it off and apply the leatherette like a decal.
5) Smooth with a small spoon or other slick blunt object.
Plan two
Complete 1,2,3,
Coat both surfaces thinly, THINLY, with the pliobond, let dry for 15
minutes and adhere. More is not better, evenly is. Be sure to always
shake pliobond (used for years in the industry) well and make sure it is
fresh. Leave the bottle open too long and it will dry and thicken and
become contact cement again and too thick to coat evenly. Use a
toothpick around the edges where it tends to squirt out a little or rub
with your finger.
Do number 5
Good Luck
Alan
from leica mailing list:
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002
From: Marc Attinasi [email protected]
Subject: [Leica] M6 replacement leathers (Leica dress-up)
I have been working with Morgan Sparks over at cameraleather.com and he
now has a nice line of replacement leather (and leatherette) for the M6.
The leathers come in many patterns, colors and styles. If you are into
that kind of thing, check out his site at www.cameraleather.com - it
the standard black leatherette is your cup of tea, well he has those
too, in case yours is torn or worn.
I can personally vouch for Morgan and his products. I have several skins
for my Olympus cameras and they are extremely well made, fairly easy to
apply, and come with a 100% money back guarantee.
Cheers,
- - marc
From: "Jeremy 1952" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: "Detailing" Your Old Camera
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002
I own 4 Pentax Spotmatic and ES bodies, along with 8 SMC Takumar prime
lenses. Some of this equipment is almost 30 years old.
I have made it a regular practice to clean and polish my bodies, lenses,
cases etc, and I'm wondering if anyone else does this and, if so, might have
some tips to share with us.
I started using STP Son-Of-A-Gun Protectant (available at any auto parts
store) in the very early 80s. Applied sparingly to an old t-shirt or soft
paper towel, it does a really nice job on the leatherlike material on my
camera bodies. Also acts as a mild cleaner on the satin chrome parts. Be
sure that you have a body cap covering the lens mount or, as an alternative,
leave a lens mounted on the camera when you apply the STP. NEVER SPRAY THE
STP DIRECTLY ONTO THE BODY. Best to start out sparingly. You can always go
back and apply again if necessary.
On the black enamel parts of my ES and ES-II, the stuff really does a nice
job! Apply sparingly to a cloth (not onto the metal--you don't want the
stuff seeping into the cracks) and gently rub into the leather and enamel.
Give the stuff a chance to get into the finish, then gently wipe clean.
Camera will look just like it did the day you first took it out of the box
(except for brassing--sorry).
Son-Of-A-Gun also works great in bringing old leather cases back to life.
I've found that it works best if applied liberally to the exterior leather,
then allowed to sit for a few minutes before wiping off with a dry towel.
I bought a used Spotmatic-F a few months ago, and it arrived with a gummy
glue spot on the bottom plate. Apparently someone had affixed a label to
the camera, and the gummed part remained on the metal. Son-Of-A-Gun did not
take the stuff off.
I experimented with 6 or 7 drops of kerosene on a paper towel. The kerosene
immediately melted the glue off the bottom plate.
I also tried it on the satin chrome (NOT the leather) parts of the
camera--the pentaprism, etc. It did a beautiful job cleaning the
fingerprints and accumulated dirt off the metal parts! (I must emphasize
that kerosene must be applied ONLY to the cloth, as it has a tendency to
run, and will almost certainly seep into the cracks and get into your
camera's insides. Use only a very few drops. It will work fine--don't
overdo it).
A second treatment with STP Son-Of-A-Gun on the entire camera, and it looked
brand new!
STP works well on metal lens barrels, too. Be very careful not to get it
onto the optical glass. Leave the front and rear lens cap on when you shine
a lens. Apply very sparingly. Be careful about not getting the stuff into
the rotating focus ring.
I've been doing this for almost 2 decades and have not noticed any problem.
although my equipment is old, it looks really great!
Any comments or tips from anyone else??
From: "Jeremy 1952" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: "Detailing" Your Old Camera
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002
> Son of a Gun is mostly mineral oil........
I was referring, not to Son-Of-A-Gun engine oil additive, but to their
protectant, which comes in a yellow spray bottle. It is used on dashboards,
tire surfaces and rubber gaskets to keep them pliable and shiny.
PLEASE don't use the engine additive to clean your camera! Although it just
might increase the life of your shutter mechanisn . . . :-)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Subject: Re: "Detailing" Your Old Camera
Naphtha (lighter fluid) works well on "gummy spots." Can be
used as a general cleaner and solvent, even on lenses when
really necessary. It is excellent for removing gummed light
seals.
On real leather cases, a good leather cream works well.
While shoe polish can be used, it is best to seal it with a
semi gloss spray.
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002
From: Paul Shinkawa [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Zorki 1 exterior care
Wayne:
Most leather preservatives and restoratives (for real
leather) don't mix well with brass. You get a chemical
reaction over time with a green residue build-up.
I use denatured alcohol to clean newly acquired
cameras. A cotton rag and alcohol work fine. After it
dries, I use a cream polish called Maas on the chrome
and Kiwi nueutral shoe polish on leather, leatherette,
and vulcanite. I've had mixed results with polish on
painted metal bodies. It improved the appearance of my
Zorki 1 and Zorki 4 but not my Fed 2. Colored shoe
polish will eventaully wear off on your hands and
face. That's why I only use neutral. Set the cleaned
and polished camera on an open shelf or mantel
overnight to let the fumes dry out.
On the cases, I use Lysol spray to kill the mildew
inside, saddle soap on the outside (except for black
leather), and I dry it in the Texas sun. I then use
the neutral shoe polish. The saddle soap also triggers
the green residue reaction if it is in contact witht
he camera too long. hence, I do not store the camera
in the leather case. Actually, after I finish with the
case, I usually hang a label on it identifying which
camera it came with and put it away in a box. I seldom
use a case with my cameras any more, just a shoulder
bag or fanny pack.
Some of the soft black leather pouch cases like those
for Olympus Pens do not clean well with saddle soap.
On those I clean with alcohol (you will lose some
color) and then polish with neutral shoe polish.
Plastic and vinyl cases get Armor-All (yes I know it's
bad for glass) to keep them from cracking and then
they get dried thporoughly before being handled. I
think vinyl cases like Asahi Pentax cases are a lost
cause. They seem to get brittle and crack no matter
what you do.
I don't strive for a "new in box" look. I like the
worn look of a camera that was appreciated enough to
be used well.
-Paul
--- "Wayne C." [email protected] wrote:
> I have a Zorki 1c with what appears tro be some sort
> of leatherette
> (vulcanite?) covering. It has turned sort of a
> brown. Anyone know what's the
> best thing to use to rejuvinate it?
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002
From: Paul Shinkawa [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] Zorki 1 exterior care
Wayne;
My concern about silicon is basically the same as
everyone else's about Armor-All. Apparently silicon
can cause surface clouding (temporary, not permanent)
on glass surfaces. Kind of like what happens when you
spray Armor-All on a dash board and it gets on the
inside of the windshield. Supposedly, you can transfer
it from you hands to the viewfinder surfaces while
using the camera. I haven't had that experience with
Armor-All, but I have noticed that too much of it
makes the camera slippery. Shoe polish doesn't have
that effect.
I once chipped off the damaged vulcanite from a Leica
IIb that I owned for a short time. It seemed to be
similar to a hard rubber that might be shrink fitted
by heat to the body. Underneath it, there was no glue
residue like you would find with leather or vinyl.
Beats me what it really is. Somewhere there is
probably a Leica book explaining the process.
-Paul
...
From: "ajacobs2" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: best way to get leatherette off old camera?
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002
> What's the best way to get the leatherette off old camera bodies without
> ruining, shrinking or ripping the leatherette? I have bubbling underneath
> that I want to remove. Also creasing so I want to get it off and reglue.
I can only suggest what we use and we do a fair amount of it. First there
were several kinds of leatherette and they were glued with everything from
contact cement to the newer PC class of two sided adhesives from Scotch
Tape.
We do not use mineral spirits, naptha or lighter fluid, keroscene. Some
times GOO Gone.
Locate "Greased Lightning", this dissolves the glue and won't harm the
leatherette. http://www.greased-lightning.com
Use sharpened popsicle sticks and bamboo skewers. No dental picks or
metallic sharp objects. I learned about this technique in the Far East.
Won't scratch the underpainted surface either. It will ball up the glue and
you can remove it then.
Use a hair dryer to soften the leatherette if it is not too far gone.
Older cameras use Pliobond ( not contact cement, pliobond is lighter and
flattens better) for newer cameras the appropriate Scotch PC ( made for
degaussing PVC) see mIcrotools.com for this tape.
--
I wish you well,
Al Jacobson
Website: www.aljacobs.com
Teaching site: http://web.tampabay.rr.com/ajacobs2
From: [email protected] (Winfried Buechsenschuetz)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Q: best way to get leatherette off old camera?
Date: 7 Jul 2002
It depends... If it is a very thin layer of leatherette on a rather
old cameras (say, before 1960) you can only get it off if the glue
does not stick too much. On most later cameras there is a rather thick
leatherette. But it all depends on the glue originally used. In most
cases it goes off when peeling with a screwdriver. Micro-Tools sells a
tool which is very similar to a cosmetic tool used to push back the
skin on your fingernails.
Some makes of leatherette tend to crack very easily since their
softener has evaporated over time.
Before reglueing it with a contact cement like Pliobond, remove all
old glue residues. This sometimes is a real pain. Use different
solvents and start with household alcohol, lighter fluid, paint
thinner and acetone. Be careful with the latter, it will destroy any
plastic parts.
Winfried
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002
From: "Jay Y Javier" [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] How to clean the camera body and case?
A child's toothbrush can be used to scrub off surface gunk. Used dry, it would
take out dry set dust and could make an otherwise dirty looking camera look
clean.
This toothbrush is quite small, which would allow it to scrub through tight
places, and being designed for children, would have supple bristles.
Jay
[email protected] wrote:
>Can anyone suggest me how to clean the camera body without scratching it? I
>receives a Zorki 4 from ebay and the chrome body needs cleaning but I don't
>know if I should use light soap water or polishing wax etc?
>
>Also, can I use shoe polish to polish the leather case or any other
>substances?
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002
From: Paul Shinkawa [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] How to clean the camera body and case?
For leather cases (real leather) I first air them out
to get rid of odors. If there is some mildew or
tobacco, I use Lysol spray on the interior. Give it a
few weeks in the air and sun.
I then clean the exterior with saddle soap. Dry
thoroughly and then use neutral (colorless) shoe
polish. Two or more applications may be necessary. I
usually do not try and fix up scuffs and scratches by
dying or buffing. It's just a matter of preference
with me.
On the chrome, I clean with denatured alcohol and
cotton cloth first. I then polish the chrome or shiny
aluminum with a metal polish called Maas. However,
this is an abrasive. Do not use it where there is a
chance of getting it into the camera machinery!
-Paul
--- kievnut [email protected] wrote:
> Can anyone suggest me how to clean the camera body
> without scratching it? I
> receives a Zorki 4 from ebay and the chrome body
> needs cleaning but I don't
> know if I should use light soap water or polishing
> wax etc?
>
> Also, can I use shoe polish to polish the leather
> case or any other
> substances?
From russian camera mailing list:
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] How to clean the camera body and case?
From: Peter Kelson [email protected]
I use aerosol spray furniture polish on leather cases. It gives them a shine
without altering the original colour.
I use car chrome cleaner, applied sparingly and carefully, using a cotton
bud to clean metal external camera parts.
Peter
From russian camera mailing list:
From: Stephen Castello [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Russiancamera] How to clean the camera body and case?
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002
I use PEC PADs for the cleaning cloth. I've found that Kodak's lens cleaner
does a good job of getting most of the crud off the camera. I apply the
liquid to the pads first.
Stephen
From: Marv Soloff [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Leatherette
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002
Martin wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a Mamiya M645, it's a lovely machine but some of the leatherette
> has started to lift a little, I've tried glueing it back but without
> success. Does anyone here know of a supplier of leatherette suitable to
> replace what's on the camera, or better still a kit of pre cut pieces?
> Must be available in the UK.
>
> Regards
>
> Martin
Try Hewit &Co, London & Edinburg or: http://www.hewit.com/
They might be able to match the material.
Regards,
Marv
From: [email protected] (Winfried Buechsenschuetz)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Leatherette
Date: 30 Sep 2002
Martin [email protected] wrote..
> Hi,
>
> I have a Mamiya M645, it's a lovely machine but some of the leatherette
> has started to lift a little, I've tried glueing it back but without
> success.
Usually it's the best to remove the entire piece of leatherette.
Sometimes the manufacturer used some kind of double-sided adhesive
tape to glue it to the body, and of course this tape has to be removed
before applying new glue. Reglueing a small part of the leatherette
without removing any residues of tape or original glue will fail.
To reglue leatherette you can use any kind of contact cement, such as
Pliobond (US) or Pattex (Germany) - I am sure there are similar
cements in UK. On large flat pieces you can also use any household
glue. The solvent version is more suitable since the non-solvent
version will take very very long to set on non-porous surfaces.
Winfried
From K-cameras mailing list:
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002
From: Eric and Kathy Craft [email protected]
Subject: Leather and Leatherette
A couple of days ago I was sitting at my desk watching
the leatherette roll of of my old Argus and it
reminded me of a posting that I had seen over at the
Zenit Camera Group a few months back. It was about a
site that had custom camera leather. I thought that
some would like to see it here.
http://www.cameraleather.com/
I also put a link to the site in the links section.
Eric...
P.S. I am not a salesman, I've just been bored lately
and have been window shopping around the internet.
I'm driving my wife crazy with this stuff too.
From Leica Topica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003
From: "Dave Saalsaa" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Leatherette repair
The only person to do the vulcanite repair in my opinion is Sherry Krauter.
She repaired a missing piece on my M5 that measured about 1/2 inch for 1
inch and when it was returned, I couldn't tell where the repair was. I
swear I looked it over and could not tell. This woman is magic. I you are
going to have the entire vulcanite replaced, you can do it yourself with a
kit available from Leica or try Cameraleather.com to see if he has any kits
available. Come to think of it I bought a kit from a guy on Ebay and still
have it around somewhere. Does the 111C have the slow speed dial in the
front?
Dave Saalsaa
From Leica Topica mailing list:
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2003
From: Vick Ko [email protected]
Subject: Re: Leatherette repair
I sent a IIIG to DAG for re-covering. He did it quite quickly. He uses
die-cut material specific to each camera.
I think what accelerated the work was that I removed the old vulcanite
for him, saving him time.
Phone and speak to him regarding his work-load.
Now- the camera is not in my hands yet, so I cannot comment on how I
feel about the actual work - but I sent the camera
to him due to his reputation. I anticipate that I will be overjoyed
with the quality. The camera is in the mail, coming my way.
regards,
Vick
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003
From: "Jay Y Javier" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Improve Leatherette Appearance
Give the leatherette a good dry scrub using a well-worn old toothbrush. When
most of the gunk is gone, determine whether you have real leather, or one form
of synthetic material to select which is the best finishing agent. Armor-all
seems to work with most leatherette, ditto with 'vulcanite'. Real leather can
be treated with shoe-care preparations. *Test* first before proceeding.
Jay
[email protected] wrote:
>How can I improve the appearance of the leatherette on a camera I just
>bought. It has no tears in it and it adheres tight to the camera. But it has
>a dull, gray-chalky look to it. Some of the appearance may be due to dirt in
>the grain.
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003
From: "Robert Chiasson" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Improve Leatherette Appearance
And a little Vaseline does wonders to bring back that new leatherette sheen.
Opps, that's a techie secret...
------
Robert
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003
From: "Barry Velostigmat" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Improve Leatherette Appearance
I wouldn't be using Armor-All as it has a tendency to make things slippery,
just what you don't want in a camera body.
Believe it or not I have used waterless hand cleaner,which is mostly
lanolin, to clean leatherette. If it doesn't attack your skin, it won't harm
leatherette or vinyl. Obviously I DON'T mean the stuff
that contains grit or pumice. The nice thing about this stuff is it is
water soluble and cleans up easily. I also clean metal surfaces with it,
using a Q-tip.
Unless the camera in question is very old, it will not have a leather
covering. The best thing for leather IMHO is Fiebings saddle soap.
Apply with a damp cloth, lather and then buff off with a soft dry cloth.
For preservation I will then use Mink Oil. I have also used this on leather
coats and car upholstery with good success.
Good Luck
Barry Krauter
From camera fix mailing list:
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003
From: "Peter Wallage [email protected]
Subject: Leatherette - bringing the colour back
Hi all,
For what it's worth, on black coverings I use a window cleaning
liquid and a soft toothbrush to get rid of the grime and then use
black shoe polish. Or, if the colour is really patchy, I clean first
then use a black shoe dye applied with a soft brush and brushed
vigorously with a soft brush when dry. I usually follow this up with
the shoe polish and a soft brush and finally a soft cloth. They come
up like new.
I've used black dye on quite a few camera bodies - a couple of
Retinas, a Rolliecord, Ilford Sportsman (Dacora), a couple of
Voigtlander 6x6 folders and several Kodak folders, including one with
leather covering - and so far the dye hasn't hurt the leatherette or
leather, but obviouly I haven't tried it on the whole gamut of
possible leatherette or plastic coverings, nor every brand of shoe
dye, so if you use it you do so at your own risk.
Peter
End of Page
Broken Links:
Crocodile Rollei (leather replacement) page was at (before 2/2003):
http://homepages.infoseek.com/~rbender/RS4.htm