Agfa Isolette 120 Folder Camera

Agfa Isolette 120 Folder Camera

Agfa Isolette 120 Folder Camera
Photo thanks to..
[email protected]

Related Local Links:
Folder Cameras FAQ Pages

Related Links:
Agfa Isolette (bellows leaks, repairs..)
Agfa Isolette III Manual (courtesy Richard Urmonas) [5/2002]
Doug Bardell 6x9cm camera (based on agfa isolette lenses!)

The Agfa Isolette series of 120 rollfilm folder cameras were made from the late 1930s through the Agfa Isolette L model of 1960. The pre-war Agfa Isolette cameras featured a dual 6x6cm and 6x4.5cm format. After World War II, the Agfa Isolette cameras were single 6x6cm format cameras using 120 rollfilm.

The Agfa Isolette models include:
Isorette 1938 (renamed Isolette)
Isolette 1938-42
Isolette (model 4.5) 1946-50
Isolette I 1952-60
Isolette II 1950-60
Isolette III 1952-58
Isolette V 1950-52
Isolette L 1957-60

The Agfa Isolette L is also a dual format camera - 6x6cm and 35mm (24 exp). This model is the most valuable of the series, but still generally brings under $100 US. The more typical prices for an Agfa Isolette is in the under $50 US range.
As the posts below indicate, the Agfa Isolette with a Solinar lens is a low cost Tessar lens design folder camera - often available for under $50! For that modest price, you can also join the ranks of photographers who are impressed by the performance of such a simple lens design.
The postings also indicate that some of these folders have a common problem with freezing in the focusing mounts. So be sure to check on this before purchasing! Repairs are "uneconomic" for a $25-50 US folder.

Photo notes:
Agfa Isolette. A cool post war 120 film folder in good condition with a relatively fast 85 mm 1:4.5 lens to take 6x6 square images. Good bellows. Has a modern PC flash synch. Better and cooler than a Diana. EX condition.

Related Postings

From: [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: help with agfa Isolette camera Date: Thu, 19 Mar 1998 I just bought an Isolette folding 6x6 camera with 85mm f/4.5 apotar lens in compur-rapid shutter. The shutter seems to be unsync'ed, and the lens looks to be uncoated. The shutter speeds below 25 are really slow, but 25 to 500 look and sound about right. 120 film is not available here, and before I order some I'd like to know if the focus adjust works. The focus ring turns much easier than I think it should, and it just rotates the front lens element. Maybe it is also moving in and out about 1 mm; it's hard to tell. I tried stretching a piece of waxed paper across the back at approximately the film plane distance, but I don't really know what it should look like. Rotating the focus ring didn't seem to change to anything. Also, there is a little hole on the top plate right behind the shutter release button. Any idea what it might be? Did I buy just a really neat $25 paperweight, or is this a usable camera? I'd like to be able to make 11x14" and bigger enlargements occasionally. Thanks for the help. Best Regards, Bob

Related Site Posting:
Agfa Isolette
discusses bellows leaks and repairs, also focus adjust problems, warns you to carefully check that focus adjustment ring works properly - or else!

rec.photo.equipment.medium-format From: steven T koontz [email protected] [1] Re: help with agfa Isolette camera Date: Thu Mar 19 1998 sounds like you may have gotten ganked like I did on e-bay on one of these.. I was told it was in great condition and found out focus was frozen and I was just unscrewing lens from shutter when rotating instead of moving focus adjustment. You shoud see an in focus image on wax paper on film plane at some distance and then moving focus should change it.. if it doesn't move focus, it is doing what mine does.. I haven't gotten mine to free up yet...

rec.photo.equipment.medium-format From: [email protected] (Mark Langer) [1] Re: help with agfa Isolette camera Date: Fri Mar 20 1998 There will be tiny screws holding the ring to the lens. Try tightening these. If the lens now will not rotate at all, you have the most common malady of Isolettes -- dried lubricant. The lubrication that Agfa used dries to a dark green tarry substance. Get yourself a spray can of Radio Shack contact cleaner and spray it generously around the focus ring around the front element. Let it soak in. Repeat. Then, take a thick piece of cloth and put it around the focus ring (or you can take some heavy tape and tape it in many layers around the ring. Here comes the scarey part. Take a wrench and tighten it around the cloth or tape until it holds the front focus ring firmly. Then, making sure that you aren't squeezing it so hard that it goes out of round, start to apply pressure to turn the lens. It will move. You can keep reapplying the contact cleaner spray. Take apart the entire focus assembly, and clean all the goo out of it. Lighter fluid and Q tips are good for this. When dry, lubricate lightly with clock oil. You will undoubtedly have to clean off the lens elements. Reassemble. You are likely to have to reset infinity on the camera focus after this. Good luck. Mark Mark Langer Email address: [email protected]

rec.photo.equipment.medium-format From: [email protected] [1] Re: help with agfa Isolette camera Date: Fri Mar 20 1998 Hi, Have you tried any film in the Isolette yet? The focusing ring should trun in and out but very slightly. You should have a rangfinder on top of the camera next to the shutter. First, you set the range looking through this finder and then set the same distance on the focusing ring. The pin hole on the top is to let you know hen you have wound the film and the camera is ready to be fired after cocking the shutter. If is is red in the pinhole, you cannot fire the camera - this is the double exposure prevention mechanism. Also, if you depress the shutter without cocking the shutter, you have lost one frame and must wind the film winder until the red does not show in the pin area again. Most of these old folders will have slow to non-working shutter speeds if left for a long period of time in the bookcase. Trying some lubricant in the right location should help -but BE VERY CAREFUL. I love my Isolette - just treat it like any other camera! Hope this helps, Richard Fung

From: Dick Weld [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: MF for < $100: TLR? Polaroid? Folding?
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998

> I also read about folding cameras. I haven't heard about any specific > models that are good. I really like the size and looks of these cameras. > Once again, are there any affordable models that would give sharper > enlargements than 35mm? If so where can I find these?

Arguably the best buy in a 120 folder would be an Agfa Isolette with a Solinar lens...very high quality for about $50...much better than any 35mm.
These are available in a number of places...on rec.photo.marketplace, or check with Deja News.
Dick Weld

rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (JCPERE)
[1] Re: Quality 3-element lenses- any experiences?
Date: Thu Jun 04 1998
>Joe Berenbaum wrote:
>>
>> I always assumed that in the realm of the 6 x 6 or 6 x 9 folder, one
>> should be looking for Tessar-type lenses [but what about triplets?]

I recently ran some quick lens tests on two Agfa Isolettes. One had an Agnar and the other a f4.5 Solinar. This was not exact science on guess focus cameras, and I was at f11 or smaller so diffraction may have be a factor. The Solinar was noticeably better at the edges, but both were about the same in center. Just like they should be. I don't think that you should be too concerned about sharpness with these old folders. If you want sharp get a modern camera. I'm just trying to play alittle and see if these old lenses have any qualities that I can connect with. I may be on the slippery slope to plastic cameras.
Chuck

From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Quality 3-element lenses- any experiences?
Date: Wed, 03 Jun 1998
Hi,
I just got back a roll of Velvia film where I used an Agfa Isolette 6x6 on a table-top tripod and shot a room scene with a barbecue sitting outside the window. using a 10X loupe, I could read the writing on the barbecue wheels -weber. The three element lense was stopped down to f/16 at 1 second. This shot would rival a modern med format in the same condition. As mentioned in the other post, the lighting was just right here and I have the proof that three element lenses were designed well !
Richard

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998
From: Mario Nagano [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [CCCU] Tessar-lensed folders
Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998
To: "Classic Camera Collectors and Users Mailing List"
From: Steven T Koontz [email protected]
Subject: Re: [CCCU] No Activity

> Did anyone ever make a folder with the > 75mm xenar that was coated? I have a rollei with this lens and love it.. > Just would like to have a folder that used this same glass..

Since Xenar is essentially a Tessar copy, there are various folding cameras that features similar coated lenses, like some versions of Voigtlander's Bessa II and Perkeo II, equipped with Color-Skopar lens.
Agfa's version of Tessar was called Solinar, and were used on Agfa Isolette series. I suspect that late models were coated.
There's also the "real thing", that means, post-war Ikontas and Super-Ikontas. Top models were fitted with coated Carl Zeiss (or Zeiss Opton) Tessar lenses.
Regards,
Mario Nagano
[email protected]

From: [email protected] (Brian J. Sprecher)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Agfa "Isolette" ?????
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999
You are correct about the Agfa Isolette. I just purchased a mint one off ebay. I'm playing around with it now and hope to use it beside my 35 mm. It takes 120 film and is completely manual, which is hard to get used to after using a completely auto Minolta 8000i. But it's nice to try a classic once and a while.
Brian Sprecher
[email protected]

From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.misc
Subject: Re: Agfa "Isolette" ?????
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999
"boris goodenough" [email protected] said:

>I dragged an old "Isolette" out of my camera closet and am curious about >it. > I am an SLR brat, so this is a mystery to me...any thoughts about this >kind of camera? Uses? How does it work? Should I waste a roll of film >playing around with it? A query to Agfa apparently was ignored. >Thanks.

I own an Agna Isolette II with Pronto shutter giving time from 1/25 - 1/200 s. and an APOTAR lens 85mm 1:4,5. The lens is very sharp when stopped down a couple of steps (The AGNAR lens is poorer). It uses 120 film and is completely manual. My Camera dates from about 1959.
John M.E. Dancke
P.O.Box 98
N-4371 EGERSUND - Norway
[email protected]

From: "ed davis" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Agfa ISOLETTE II
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999
Don't take off the bellows! Get some black silicone caulk from a hardware store and use it to seal the bellows. I had an Isolette with the same problem, and this worked. The silicone remains pliant so you can collapse the bellows. A new bellows is likely to be more than the camera is worth.
hth
Ed
u1695080 wrote

>I have had agfa isolette II medium format FOLDING camera from 50 ties >for week now I soot first film and afther developing i realize that >bellows leak althougth camera is in almost mint condition. Does anybody >have good experience with this camera . >How to repeir bellows! I have found company in New York which could make >a bellows for me but I have to send bellows to them . Before that >IHAVE TO TAKE OFF THE BELOWS . aNY EXPERINCE WITH THIS CAMERA IS >WELKOME!

Date: 25 Oct 1999
From: [email protected] (Mark Langer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Agfa Isolette question
Helmut Dersch ([email protected]) wrote:

> What is the difference between the Agnar and Apotar lenses? > They are both 3-element, 1:4.5/85. > Helmut Dersch

The Apotar is a slightly reformulated Agnar that uses rare earth in the glass. My experience is somewhat different than that of the other respondent to this question, in that I've had decent performance at smaller apertures from both Agnar or Apotar lenses. For better performance at larger apertures and in the corners, I'd advise using the four element Solinar.
Mark

Date: 14 Oct 2000
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: agfa isolette
[email protected] (Cassandra) wrote:

> Any comments on this little antique? I have one, and I am told it has > reasonably decent lenses. > thanks

My wife and I have quite a few different Agfa Isolettes many of which have been used successfully to takes pictures. IMHO they are a much underrated range of cameras and all are quite capable of decent results.
The cheaper models came with Agnar lenses - whilst the best had Solinar ones. The majority of Isolettes we've seen (and own) come with Apotar lenses. It was an Isolette like that we took on our honeymoon to Egypt and it performed very well.
If you are interested there is quite a large Agfa section on our web site:
http://www.cix.co.uk/~rgivan/
Which covers amongst others, several of the different Isolettes with example pictures (including some of Egypt) and repair information.
Our Isolette collection is currently growing faster than I can update the web site - so not all the examples we have are currently listed.
Hope that helps,
:-)
Roland.

Date: 16 Oct 2000
From: [email protected] (Mark Langer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: agfa isolette
Cassandra ([email protected]) wrote:

> Any comments on this little antique? I have one, and I am told it has > reasonably decent lenses. > thanks

If you find a good one, they are wonderful performers. Their three and four element lenses are as good as anyone's and better than most. They do have a few weaknesses that result in prices being lower than several comparable competitors, like Voigtlander and Zeiss. The plating on Agfas tends to be more fragile than that on other folders. They have a cheaper-looking fabric body covering. But more importantly, they have bellows that are more subject to pinholes and cracking, due to the synthetic material of which they are composed, and they are subject to a "green goo" problem of the lubricant used in the focus helical and the rangefinder (should you find one so equipped) hardening.
That being said, a good functioning Isolette or its larger brother, the Record, is a first-rate instrument for taking pictures.
Mark
Mark Langer
Email address: [email protected]

From Rollei Mailing List:
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001
From: Gene Johnson [email protected]
Subject: [Rollei] good guess focus cameras
Richard,
I often use an Agfa Isolette with a four element Solinar. I have found this camera to be an excellent candidate for some of the newer 800 speed films like Kodak Portra. With the aperture closed down to f16 or even 22, my estimation is less critical and I have gotten some very nice pictures with this truly tiny 6x6 camera. It is imperative to shade the red window with color film, and never leave the little viewing door open.
Gene

From rangefinder mailing list: Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 From: Robin Larson [email protected] Subject: Re: [RF List] Agfa Isolette Look at Manfred Schmidt's site http://www.manfredschmidt.com. He has an extensive selection of accessory rangefinders, in meters and feet. His pricing is premium but he has selection and is fast. I use a rollei 35 and a coated Zeiss Nettar 6x6. For me, the secret of guess-o-matic focussing is I know the depth of field for each camera for 2 meters at F5.6-8. The rollei has DOF markings for F8 and 16, but the Nettar has none. I know if I stretch my arm out in a certain way, my arm is one meter long, so keeping someone a little more than two arms lengths gives me a nice waist-up portrait focal length with a pleasing amount of blur using 400 speed film in open shade. The good 400 and 800 speed films make the old folders much more capable in low to moderate light, although most have very poky shutter speeds...so buy two, a slow film body for sunny shots and a fast film body for cloudy shots ;-) They're sharp, but not too sharp. The old triplets and the tessar clones have some cool visual effects but can vary a lot between samples. Mine has good edge contrast and nice color rendition, but doesn't resolve well at infinity. In fact, try finding a slip on hood for your isolette. Hoods make a big difference with these older lenses. I tell people to only buy folders which will take 31.5 mm slip on rings because then you can use stepup rings for Kodak series VI hoods without vignetting at your focal length. I THINK that's the size for your Agfa. See if you can pay a tech a few bucks to measure your actual shutter speeds. For instance, I know my Nettar's 1/200 is actually 1/125; and 1/100 is precisely 1/60. No CLA necessary. -Robin

from rangefinder mailing list: Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 From: Winfried Buechsenschuetz [email protected] Subject: RE: Agfa Isolette I think it rather depends on shutter shake and ergonomics of the camera. I had good results with several 6x6 folders (including an Agfa Isolette III) down to 1/15 sec. Of course, you can't do that after 12 hours of hard work, but if you focus your mind on the camera, hold it as quite as possible and take a deep breath before releasing the shutter this is possible. The rule of thumb of 'minimum shutter speed = 1 / (focal length)' applies for 35mm cameras. But the 'distortion circle' (i.e. the maximum diameter of spots which will be seen as 'not sharp' by the human eye) is different on 6x6 format. In Germany and on german ebay you will find quite a few rangefinder attachments with metric dial, but unfortunately very few german ebay sellers sell worldwide.

From: "Henricus" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Manual for Isolette III Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 "DC Patel" [email protected] wrote... > Can anyone tell me where I can my hands on a online manual for a agfa > isolette iii (prefer online version) > > Thanks Here are some sites that might help. However, I was unable to find the specific Agfa Isolette III manual. I did find one for the II and I think this will get you started. Enjoy. http://www.amdmacpherson.com/classiccameras/index.html http://rurmonas.cust.nearlyfreespeech.net/manuals/isoletteII/isoletteII.html http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/agfaisolette.html HC

From: "roland.rashleigh-berry" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Agfa Isolette II - ASA rating? Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 It's not set to any speed. You have to work out aperture and shutter speed depending on the conditions and the speed of film you are using. There is a manual here http://rurmonas.cust.nearlyfreespeech.net/manuals/isoletteII/isoletteII.html Maybe you should get yourself a light meter. I never bother though. Front-lit subject high sun I use Sunny 16 rule that states at f16 the exposure should be the inverse of the film speed which for 100 speed film is 1/100th sec. For same exposure at f11 it will be 1/200th. At f8 1/400th. Hazy sun then open up a stop, Sun behind clouds but bright patch open another stop. Sun behind clouds and can't tell where open up another stop. Heavy overcast or indoors - don't bother wasting film. "John Burnett" [email protected] wrote... > What is this camera set to? If at all? > > I would guess 100 ASA - Anyone know?

From: [email protected] (RD) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Agfa Isolette 1 - anyone got instructions? Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 You can find an online manual for the Isolette II here: http://rurmonas.cust.nearlyfreespeech.net/manuals/isoletteII/isoletteII.html The Isolette II and Isolette I are similar in many ways. These are two main differences I'm aware of: 1. The Isolette II has a double exposure interlock. After the shutter is fired, film must be advanced before the shutter button can be depressed again. 2. Looking at the camera from the rear, the film wind knob of the Isolette II is on the right. I haven't owned an Isolette I, but it seems from photos that the film wind knob is on the left (like its predecessor, the Isolette V). Hmmm, I wonder if this causes the frame numbers to appear upside-down. Both cameras use 120 roll film, and both shoot 6x6. Thay have a red window and sliding cover built in at the rear compartment door. When you wind the film, numbers will appear in the red window to let you know which frame you're on. When you're not winding, the door should be shut. Regarding film loading, you move the empty spool to the takeup side. Turn it until the *wide* slot is facing up. Install the film spool so that the film comes off the outside of the roll, pull the paper leader over the film plane opening, and tuck the end of the paper into the slot of the empty spool. Wind the film advance a couple turns, then close the camera back. Now open the window cover and advance the film until you see "1" in the red window. The number will be preceded by a few dots to tell you you're getting close. Close the cover and you're ready to shoot. Note that everything about this camera is manual. You'll need a light meter to know how to set the shutter and aperture. Or, for daylight shots outdoors, you can use the "Sunny 16" rule. This tells you what settings to use on a bright, sunny day with hard shadows. Then, you learn how to recognize the next five or six stops below that, and you're set. If you want the rules for this, just say so and I'll post them. Both the Isolette I and Isolette II were manufactured with a variety of lenses and shutters. These pages have additional info: http://www.cleanimages.com/articles/MediumFormatInYourPocket/folders.htm Medium Format in Your Pocket http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/cameras.html Medium Format Cameras Library The best lens is the Solinar, but from what I've read, they all produce good results. My Isolette II has the "mid-grade" lens, a coated Apotar f/4.5. It also has the cheap (but trouble-free) Pronto shutter with speeds of 1/25 to 1/200. With Fuji 160, this covers virtually all daylight shooting, and it allows keeping a good depth of field. The three most common trouble areas are as follows: 1. Frozen focus ring. You'll find lots of info on this in the various sites linked at the SMU site. 2. Pinhole light leaks at the corners of the bellows. My test for this is to point the lens at the noon sun with the shutter closed, and visually inspect the interior of the bellows for tiny spots of light. 3. Shutters with extended range use a spring-wound clockwork to time the shutter at speeds slower than 1/25. The clockwork frequently gets gummy with age and slows down or stops altogether. This can freeze the shutter, preventing the camera from working at any speed. Good luck, and have fun! JL "cerebros" [email protected] wrote: >I've dug my dad's Agfa Isolette 1 out of the attic and as far as i can tell >it's in working order. However, the instructions have long since been lost >so I'm not sure what the correct process is for loading the film and winding >after exposure. > >Looking at the insides I'd assume that you load the roll of film in the left >hand side then wind the whole roll onto the spindle on the right of the >camera. I'd also assume that after releasing the shutter you have to turn >the knob on the top left of the camera one whole turn to properly wind on, >but i couldn't be sure about this. > >Does anyone have a copy of the instructions they can scan and send me, or >know some place (in the UK) that I might be able to get a copy of the >instructions from? > >Thanks > >Simon

Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 From: Gordon Moat [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Help identify an Agfa Isolette? Try this page: http://www.foto-bob-noomen.nl/link9.htm and scroll down to view a Jsolette that looks very similar to yours. This site indicates 1947, but that may have only been the first year of manufacture. I have a few filters (Number 6) that fit these. Unfortunately, they have no threads or shoulder to them. There are some filter holders that also function as lens hoods, but they seem to be quite rare and difficult to find. I am still trying EBAY, though I may just make one on the lathe from some strong plastic. Another option would be adapting a Cokin holder. I tend to disagree with those suggesting epoxy to attach a filter. This could often make it impossible to close the camera, thereby loosing the nice portability size. The slip on hood, as originally intended, would be the best solution. Don't be surprised if the focus ring is frozen, or if the range on the dial is off. Also consider finding an accessory rangefinder to help make your focusing a bit more accurate. I am testing some different compounds to repair pinholes in the bellows (another common problem). If you want to e-mail me off group with some questions, feel free to do so. Check out for some great repair tips. They also have some information on these cameras, and a view of a lens hood at . Ciao! Gordon Moat Alliance Graphique Studio http://www.allgstudio.com Angry Angel wrote: > Hello, > > I've just bought an Agfa Isolette (6x6 folder) from eBay, and I'd like to > identify which model it is (in this time I have waiting for it to arrive). > > http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1394246619 > > It has a Compur-Rapid shutter and the Solinar f4.5 lens. > > From Robert Monaghan's excellent MF site > I have found some of > the various models that were made: > > * Isorette 1938 (renamed Isolette) > * Isolette 1938-42 > * Isolette (model 4.5) 1946-50 > * Isolette I 1952-60 > * Isolette II 1950-60 > * Isolette III 1952-58 > * Isolette V 1950-52 > * Isolette L 1957-60 > > I also know of the coupled range-finder 'Super Isolette'. I have seen > examples of I's, II's, III's, and V's; and don't think mine is one of those. > > The 1938 models Isorette and Isolette have black bakelite tops, so it's not > one of those. > > I think it is probably a 1946 model, but I'd like some help.... > > Does anyone know which version this is, and whether the Solinar is coated or > not (I think not, because the newer ones were f3.5's)? Does anyone know if > it is possible to get hold of (very cheap/preferably modern) filters/hoods > to fit this camera?

From: [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Help identify an Agfa Isolette? Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 [email protected] (Keith Whaley) wrote: > According to McK, the Isolette II had the Prontor-S, and my curiosity > leads me to wonder if they took some remaining shutters from the II > stock to make up some of the early IIIs? Both the Isolette II and III were supplied with a variety of lenses and shutters. Photos of some examples can be found at: http://www.cix.co.uk/~rgivan/isoletteii.html Its also worth noting that both cameras were available at the same time. The Isolette III did not replace the II - it just was a more expensive alternative model. Of course - as has already been pointed out - its so easy to change lenses and shutters on Isolettes that there is no guarantee that any camera you buy has its original ones. :-) Roland. http://www.rolandandcaroline.co.uk/

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 From: Gordon Moat [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Help identify an Agfa Isolette? Lassi Hippel�inen wrote: > 3.5 was fairly common after WW2. Even Moskva 5 has one :-) Perhaps with other makes, but I have not found any AGFA or Ansco after WW2 with this yet. It may be something to look into, though I find more f4.5 with the AGFA gear. > Triplet lenses probably can't do it with acceptable image quality, but > Tessar-types can. But the glassware gets thicker. Zeiss (and Moskva) > changed the focal length from 110mm/4.5 to 105mm/3.5. My guess is that > the front surface location was fixed by the fold-out mechanics, and the > lens could grow inwards only. Therefore the registration distance may > not fit older folders. I think you are right about the registration distance. The lens elements centres to film plain distance seems to be 105 mm on a couple of the folders I informally checked, and those also have 105 mm lenses mounted. Perhaps the simplicity of the older designs mean they need to be mounted like that. I have heard that swapping the rear element on some of the AGFA folders can change the focal length of the lens, though I do not know if it adversely affects focus accuracy. So far with other makes, I think just some Balda cameras had similar mountings as AGFA, and are often somewhat low cost. The Zeiss and Voigtl�nder choices are just too expensive to start pulling apart and moving pieces onto cheaper cameras. I am trying to stay closer to the AGFA choices, since they are numerous and low cost. Ciao! Gordon Moat Alliance Graphique Studio http://www.allgstudio.com/gallery.html

From: "Mike Elek" melek @ fptoday . com Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Agfa Isolette I w/ Agnar f4.5 Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 "Michael Beacom" [email protected] wrote > Hi- > Anyone know anything about the Agnar lens? Or even of a web site that > talks about the Isolette cameras? > > Thanks > Beaker Just to add: Ivor Mantanle recently wrote about the Isolettes in a recent issue of Amateur Photographer, a weekly photo magazine from the UK. -- -Mike Elek http://host.fptoday.com/melek/pages/cameras.html

From: [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Agfa Isolette I query... Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 [email protected] (William D. Tallman) wrote: > Got it for $28US from local camera store. It all works, apparently, > including the focus, though the bezel screws had to be tightened and > the action is stiff (getting freer..). > > I've seen a site that claims to have used this camera for color film, > and as it was made in the 1950s, that seems reasonable. I've also read > that one doesn't use color film in it because registering the film > position while advancing it requires that one use the red window on the > back, which will surely expose color film! I think other people have covered this query more than adequately - but just to add my 2p worth - the real point to note is that B+W film has been sensitive to red light for many years too - so the red window is really no protection under any conditions. I have personally used an Isolette I (and many older cameras) with colour print film and excepting the odd light leak due to age - they work fine. :-) Roland. http://www.rolandandcaroline.co.uk/ (for lots of old camera (especially Agfa) stuff)

From: [email protected] (Winfried Buechsenschuetz) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Agfa Isolette I query... Date: 27 Jul 2003 First of all, you can use virtually ALL cameras - whatever their vintage is - for color film, since there is hardly any photographic lens (except single element meniscus lenses on very cheap cameras) which is not color corrected - not always to today's standard but results will be acceptable at least. Second, on 120 format film there is an opaque backing paper. I never had any trouble with fogged film on any folding camera I use, even when I used 400ASA b/w film on a folder which has no slider over the red window (I think the Isolette I hasn't one either). Only thing I noticed was that on some cameras there was a bit of fogging due to light crawling around the pressure plate and fogging the film a bit from the edges. But this happened a few times only and can easily be cut off when making prints. So just use it for color film, but you should avoid exposing the red window to bright sunlight. Maybe you can glue a flap of black opaque plastic over it to be sure. Concerning the focus bezel, make sure that it did not slip when it was loose. You can check proper focussing by pressing a mat glass plate against the film rails (or glueing some mat Scotch tape over the film rollers), keep the shutter open and point at a distant object. It should appear crystal clear at least in the center. If not, loosen the focus ring, turn the front lens element until the image is really sharp, set the focus ring to oo position and retighten it. Winfried

From: [email protected] (Max) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Agfa Isolette I query... Date: 27 Jul 2003 ... I have shot color slides using the Agfa Isolette II with the Apotar lens and had no problem with light leaking through the red window.The apotar lens can yield good results if properly used. I'd recomend shooting at apertures smaller than f/11-16, because the depth of field at something like f/8 is almost nonexistant, and very hard to estimate focus (almost impossible unless shooting at infinity). One thing to look for is the focus assembly being really free. Mine seemed free, but under closer inspection it appeared completely frozen, and only the distance scale ring was moving (also bad, because that eats the little screws that attach it to the lens). I don't think you can find an Agfa with the original lubricant that hasn't gummed up. If yours hasn't, I guess somebody cleaned it before. I have one of the pictures taken on Fuji Astia at http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=1531741. Not a good picture, too contrasty, but it has considerably more detail and tonality in the print than a 35mm shot. Something like 1/50 f/22. The coating does a very nice job, and I belive it ads a lot of sharpness perception because of the high contrast detail that an uncoated lens would have lost. Max
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