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Batteries in Photography FAQ
Hasselblad 500C/EL New Users Guide
1). Preliminaries
a). Make sure that you can obtain ZA 600 NC accumulators (or
their equivalents if any) before you start.
In German catalogues, the ZA 600 are not classified under
'accumulators' or 'rechargeable batteries' but rather under
'Mehrknopfzellen' which literally translated means 'multiple
button cells'. In fact, they do consist of 5 individual cells
spot welded together (in series) and in a green plastic sheath
just like the Hasselblad Varta originals but without the tapered
plus pole (which is the cause of the difficulty).
b). If you have no mechanical aptitude and/or two left hands and/or
ten thumbs don't attempt.
c). Remove camera lens and film magazine; fit front cap and rear
cover plate to body if available.
d). Remove release button, battery cover, battery(ies),
fuse(s) and charging socket cover (if available).
e). Set L-O-T switch to 'O'.
f). Set mode selector to 'S' to pre-release mirror/secondary shutter.
g). Lay camera on its side with mode selector dial facing upwards,
lens opening to your right on a clean, soft, well lit surface.
2). Tools
a). Top quality 'watchmaker' screwdriver. For this job I use
one with dimensions 2.75 mm. * 75 mm because two of the
seven screws that must be removed are recessed. If the
blade is magnetised, this is helpful as it will 'hold'
the screws - facilitating removing and refitting them.
b). Good light source
c). Optionally, magnifying glass or watchmaker's eyeglass
(depending on how good your eyesight is).
d). some 1/2" (13 mm.) insulating tape preferably of the woven
type.
e). Paper and pencil to make notes if you find this a help.
3). Procedure.
a). Gently peel back the leatherette starting at the lower right
hand corner of the side plate that is situated below the
mode selector dial; about 1/2" (13 mm.) is enough and you will
see a screw in the bottom right hand corner; unscrew and remove
this screw.
b). Remove the two screws holding the plastic grip plate (with
L-O-T markings).
c). Remove platic grip plate and side plate [see 3a).] together
and note how the side plate fits UNDER the mode selector
housing but OVER the plastic grip plate.
d). Carefully observe how the U shaped wire yoke of the L-O-T lever
encircles the spigot on the magnet arm; you must replace
the L-O-T lever plate in the same way; make notes or a sketch
if you can't remember.
e). Remove the L-O-T plate.
f). Place removed parts and their screws safely on one side.
g). The side of the motor unit and various gears are now exposed.
Note that the large intermediate gear wheel is mounted on a
threaded post but there is no screw holding it on the post.
This is as it should be and you are not missing a screw.
h). If you visualise this large gear wheel as a clock, before about
7 o'clock and just beyond the circumference of this gear,
you can see how the magnet arm of the motor unit
sits against, and to the right of, the release lever. Push
the release lever gently to the left with the tip of the
screwdriver; this will cause the release lever to fully
release the drive mechanism to the (not mounted) lens.
YOU MUST REASSEMBLE THE MOTOR UNIT SO THAT THE MAGNET ARM IS TO
THE RIGHT OF THE RELEASE LEVER - AGAIN MAKE NOTES OR A SKETCH.
i). The motor unit is held in place by means of four screws
called, let's say, S1, S2, S3 and S4.
S1 has a COUNTERSUNK head and is located on the motor unit
side plate (that is facing you) about two centimetres to
the LEFT from the centre of the gear wheel which engages
(under) the large intermediate gear wheel. If you follow the
upper edge the the motor unit side plate from the top
of the charging socket in a right handed direction, you
will see S1 where the plate edge moves away from you; S1
is very near the edge of the plate.
S2 has also a COUNTERSUNK head and is located on the motor
unit side plate about one centimetre to the RIGHT and in
line with S1 and again very near the edge of the plate.
S3 is a normal screw and is recessed. If you follow the
edge of the motor side plate from the BOTTOM of the
charging socket towards the RIGHT after about 1 1/2
centimetres, you will see a hole punched in the motor
side plate very near to the edge. S3 is recessed deeply in
this hole. Use your light source and juggle the angle so that
you can see it.
S4 is a normal screw and is recessed. Locate the bottom
right hand corner of the motor side plate; S4 sits
recessed deeply in the gap between the motor side plate and
the outer motor unit casing about five millimetres above
the base of the camera. Again use light source so that
you can see it.
j). Remove S1, S2, S3 and S4 and put safely on one side.
k). Lift out motor unit vertically towards you.
l). Access other side of motor unit. Remove one or both of the
plastic 'cups' that are the source of the problem. Lever
each cup gently away from its backplate - it is fixed by an
expanded split plastic plug - until this plug is clear of
its hole and then slide the 'cup' sideways off the electric
battery contact. I would recommend removing only one 'cup'
for three reasons:
- the remaining cup helps to hold the electric battery
contact in place.
- camera is heavier with two accumulators.
- one at a time is what Wildi recommends!
m). Insulate under electrical contact and if you have removed
both 'cups' use insulating tape across the middle of it
as well to give it stability (when camera is in use, the
accumulator(s) will hold it anyway).
n). Replace motor unit in housing; if you do not have a magnetic
screwdriver, you may find it easier to put S3 and S4 in the
holes in the motor unit before lowering the unit into the
housing. Make sure magnet arm sits to the RIGHT of the
release lever. Engage S3 and S4 and give them a couple of
turns. Insert S1 and S2. When motor unit is seated correctly
tighten S1, S2, S3 and S4 but do not overtighten.
o). Replace L-O-T plate. Make sure L-O-T lever engages spigot
on magnet arm.
p). Replace plastic grip plate and side cover so that side cover
slides under the mode selector housing but sits over the platic
grip plate. Replace two screws in plastic grip plate and one
screw under leatherette. Tighten screws and flatten down
leatherette. If the leathertte won't adhere, use a spot of
'Pliobond' adhesive.
q). Be sure to insert ZA 600 accumulators with '+' pole first. The
'+' pole is marked as such and the '-' pole has
corrugations stamped into it.
r). Insert ZA 600 accumulator(s), fuse(s) and replace battery cover
plate. Camera should tension. Replace release button and
charging socket cover.
s). Some ZA 600s have soldering tabs spot welded onto each
pole surface; these tabs should be cut off.
t). Test camera for all functions.
u). Keep removed plastic 'cup(s)' safely in case you want to
refit them at some point in the future.
Dear Robert,
some weeks ago I provided a number of 500 EL/(M) users with
instructions on modifying their cameras to accept another battery source;
as you know, the original (overpriced) Varta cells have been discontinued and
although there may be an official alternative from Hasselblad by now, it is
too expensive in my opinion. I found an electrically exact equivalent -
namely the ZA 600 NC cell - whose only deviation from the Varta original
is that it is not tapered at the + pole; this means that it will not
fit into the camera without modifying the latter - which is what the enclosed
ramble is all about.
A number of users have applied the modification and have told me
that my instructions are clear and comprehensive. Furthermore, they have
expressed a desire that these instructions should be included in your
excellent web pages for the benefit of all. I therefore offer you the
enclosed, to add to your site contents, if you do so deem.
I am aware of most of the workarounds that other users have
applied but feel that the enclosed is the closest approach to the
original.
Best wishes,
Richard Hughes.
[Ed. note: Special Thanks to Richard Hughes for sharing these tips with
us!]
From Hasselblad Mailing List:
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2000
From: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: 500 ELM/ELX
lots of lower cost options, viz:
see http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/500battery.html
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998
From: "Eugene A. Pallat"
Reply to: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: add motor to 500C/M
> I have an old 500C/M body. Is there a way to connect a motorized drive to > it. Thanks in advance.
Not to my knowledge. That's a feature of the newer 503CW. I believe you
have only 2 choices. Either trade your 500C/M for a 500EL/M, or buy a
500EL/M as a second body.
As for the 500EL/Ms. there are 2 variants. The older one uses the
discontinued 6.25V nicad batteries and the newer one uses 5 AA nicads or
alkalines. The older ones can be converted to use the AAs. You can also
get external battery cassette, part 43023, and plug its cord into the
external socket on the side of the EL/M. I made an external battery pack
using 5 D alkaline batteries to do the same thing.
Gene Pallat
Mr500CM wrote in article
snip EL/ELM Batteries: Varta discontinued these batteries in the beginning
of 1997. The factory has more than a two year supply in stock and they are
searching for a new vender to stock them in the future. It is important to
discharge them to prevent memories and avoid overcharging. A full charge
is 14 hours with the standard charger. snip
To solve that problem, I made a battery pack which uses 5 D size alkaline
or NiCad batteries in a belt pack. For connection to the camera, a
standard 6 pin DIN connector is used with a cable to the battery pack. You
can get a D size NiCad charger at any Radio Shack or electronics store.
The DIN connectors are available from the same sources for $1.50 to $2.00
US. The pinouts are in Ernst Wildi's "The Hasselblad Manual" on page 68 of
the 4th edition.
I also made a DC power supply which runs off the 110VAC line to deliver
the required voltage to the camera.
Gene [email protected]
Orion Data Systems
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998
From: Vince Callaway [email protected]
Subject: Re: Battery for 500ELM
I use a 9 volt in mine.
Just clip on a cheap connecter from rat shack with the wires tined and
off you go.
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998
From: Joseph Codispoti [email protected]
Subject: Re: Battery for 500ELM
The following is the name and address of folks who can make batteries to
order by assembling the correct number of cells to form the total battery
according to voltage specifications.
House of Batteries 714 642-8222
16512 Burke Lane, Huntington Beach, CA 92647
They may be able to make what you need from existing specs or they require
the old battery to ascertain size, voltage etc. They do shrink wrap and
the final product will look and perform just like the OEM. I have had
several batteries packages build by these people and was very pleased with
price and performance.
Joseph Codispoti
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998
From: Joseph Codispoti [email protected]
Subject: Re: Battery for 500ELM
The following is the name and address of folks who can make batteries to
order by assembling the correct number of cells to form the total battery
according to voltage specifications.
House of Batteries 714 642-8222
16512 Burke Lane, Huntington Beach, CA 92647
They may be able to make what you need from existing specs or they require
the old battery to ascertain size, voltage etc. They do shrink wrap and
the final product will look and perform just like the OEM. I have had
several batteries packages build by these people and was very pleased with
price and performance.
Joseph Codispoti
etc. etc.
see http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/hassy.html for more examples
* Robert Monaghan POB752182 Dallas Tx 75275-2182 [email protected]*
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002
From: Tourtelot [email protected]
To: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HUG] EL/M Charger info
Did you put a 9v conversion into it. That seems totally the way to go. A piece of dowel from Home Depot, two fender washers, two wood screws and a 9v battery clip from Radio Shack. Done! In fact, the question came from a nice EL/M on eBay for $190. By the time it was up to $250+, I wasn't interested anymore. D.