See America by Greyhound Bus

A Zen Guide to Long Distance Bus Travels

by Robert Monaghan

Introduction

After over 100,000 miles of travel around the U.S.A., Canada, and Mexico by bus, I have decided to share some of the tips and lessons I have learned in these pages.

The single most important point is to simply do it! You can't see America by sitting at home. Each trip and each day is a new experience. If you don't go, how can you have any adventures?

Just as there is a Zen or philosophy to the Internet, there is a Zen philosophy to long distance bus travel. Most travel stress is self-generated, so the right attitude can make it disappear.

Start by accepting your trip for what it is and will be. Surely one or more of the sites you wish to visit may be closed on the day(s) you are there - such is life. It will rain on you too. Don't expect perfection, but enjoy and take advantage of your opportunities as they come to you.

Allow yourself the freedom to have your trip unfold, following your interests rather than an ironclad schedule. Accept any delays or hassles on the way as part of the expected costs of traveling.

In traveling, less is more. The less you carry, the more traveling you can do. Fortunately, you can travel more comfortably, using some of the tips and tricks described below.

Trip Themes

I believe that your trips will take on an added dimension of fun and adventure if you build them around a theme.

Whatever your interests, you should be able to design a trip that will have an added dimension and focus by incorporating a trip theme.

Low Cost Travel

Bus travel has the advantage of being one of the lowest cost ways to see the entire U.S.A. Using an Ameripass bus travel pass, it is not unusual to get your travel costs below three cents per mile! An Ameripass is an unlimited bus travel ticket, for a given period in days (7, 15, 30, 60 day periods). Greyhound Bus Lines also offers frequent discounts for advance purchase tickets (currently, $59 anywhere one-way with 30 day advance purchase, $109 round-trip). Buses stop at far more locations (13,000+) than either trains or planes, as well as many places along rural routes (by prior arrangement).

By comparison, train travel is usually at least two and a half times the cost of similar long distance bus travel costs (e.g., $179 for one-way trip with advance purchase). While trains are often more comfortable, the cost for a sleeper berth ticket is usually comparable for an airplane ticket for the same long distance travel. Trains only stop at a relatively limited number of stops compared to buses.

You can find discount air fares to single destinations via the Internet or ticket bucket shops that are nearly as cheap as single bus tickets and faster. But you often spend some of your savings getting from the airport to the downtown sites via costly airport shuttles. Some of the time savings are also lost getting to and from the airport, past security, and waiting after checking in the recommended hour before traveling.

Traveling by private car is obviously the most flexible approach to seeing the U.S.A., but also the most costly. Your direct costs will be not just gas and oil, but also repairs on a long trip (10-15,000+ miles). You have to do the driving, unlike on a bus. You may run into other direct costs such as insurance (e.g., side trips to Mexico, Canada) and parking. Indirect costs are also likely to be higher too.

A bus ticket or Ameripass can offer very low costs per mile for travel. You let the bus driver do the driving while you sightsee or sleep. You can pick more places to go, and you get dropped off in the center of the city (not a remote airport). In short, traveling by bus to see America offers many advantages besides lowest cost.

Bus Tickets Tips

Bus tickets have some hidden benefits you need to know about. For example, the tickets claim to be good for only a given date of travel. But Greyhound ticket staffers say that even the discount tickets can be used at anytime up to 60 days from the date of travel indicated. The full fare tickets may extend this time to a full year. Obviously, you should check out the current restrictions before you purchase your ticket, as these conditions may change.

My second tip concerns tickets within tickets. If you buy a bus ticket from Dallas to New York City, you get a series of tickets to intermediate stops too. You might have a ticket printed to go from Dallas to Memphis, from Memphis to Washington D.C., and from Washington D.C. to New York City. Now each of these tickets represents a segment of the entire route. Your driver will collect one of these tickets at the start of each segment of the trip. But you can stop at the intermediate destinations, getting a free visit to each city as part of the longer trip. So long as your travel is within the permitted period (e.g., 60-days on discount tickets, one year on full fare tickets currently), you can stop off as long as you want!

On a transcontinental trip, you might get as many as six or seven trip segment tickets, allowing you to stop off in a half dozen cities enroute to your final destination. In effect, your $59 advance purchase ticket is not only getting you across the U.S.A., but letting you stop at half a dozen major cities enroute.

Another non-obvious tip is to extend your planned round trip to take full advantage of this ticketing practice. Suppose you really need to go from Dallas to Washington D.C., but wouldn't mind visiting New York City and Montreal for free. For $109, you can get your round trip ticket cut to go from Dallas to Washington D.C., or for the same $109, you can get a round trip ticket cut to Montreal (Canada). You now have the option of going from Washington D.C. to New York City for a few week's visit, then a fun trip up to visit the beautiful old city parts of Montreal in Canada. By perusing the express bus routes, and asking some questions, you have greatly extended the fun and value of your discount bus ticket dollars!

Bus Passes

Greyhound Lines Inc. offer the Ameripass Bus Pass, which is good for unlimited travel over most of their lines during a limited period of time. You can buy an Ameripass for 7 day, 15 day, 30 day, and 60 day periods of time.

Foreigners should be aware that you can get a discount on the International Ameripass ticket by buying from a foreign travel agent before you come to the U.S. If you forget, you can still buy one at a discount from one office in New York City. Savings are around 10% or so currently over a domestic Ameripass.

For Mexican citizens only, there is a Mexican Ameripass with huge savings for travel within the U.S. (e.g., $249 for 30 day pass, $199 for 15 days, $149 for 7 day pass). You have to buy the pass beforehand, in a zone not near the U.S. border. Mexican senior citizens over 55 get a 10% discount too.

In the U.S., senior citizens over 62, military personnel, and students are also eligible for discounts. Senior citizens get a 10% discount, military personnel get a 10% discount and a cap on one-way fares of $99, and $169 for round-trips. The standard student discount is also circa 10%. A new program for students boosts savings to 15% if you register in advance.

I should note that student means just that. If you are currently a student, with proof in the form of a student identification card and/or current enrollment paperwork acceptable to the Greyhound clerk, you can get these discounts. This student designation includes graduate students in their 30's and 40's too.

Bring your student card and paperwork with you, as many travel discounts and museum entry fee discounts and the like will apply, if you ask for them! You should also ask for discounts at hotels. Most hotel clerks can provide an automatic 10% to 15% discount if asked. It doesn't hurt to ask, at worst they will say no, but you will be pleasantly surprised how often they say yes!

See Ameripass Prices for current price information.

Ameripass Price Anomalies

The key point here is that your costs drop dramatically the longer you travel. Moreover, your cost per added day drop even more dramatically as you buy longer travel time passes. Going from 7 to 15 days costs $100 for 8 more days of travel ($12.50/day). But extend your ticket from 15 to 30 days, or 30 to 60 days, and your costs per added day are under $7/day! So the real bargains on a per day basis are in the 30 and 60 day tickets.

In the past, you could add days to your Ameripass for a given fee per day (circa $20 per day), extending your trip if the need arose or if you just needed another day or two. Unfortunately, this flexibility is no longer available, although we can hope and ask for its return. In the meanwhile, you have to buy as many days as you need at the start.

When is fifteen days really sixteen days? When I bought a 15 day Ameripass, the clerk added fifteen days to the start date. So I really got a pass for 16 days of travel, not fifteen. Was it an error, or standard procedure? The clerk claimed it was standard procedure. But if you start on the first, add fifteen days to get to the sixteenth of the month as the ending date, then you really have 16 days of travel on a 15 day Ameripass.

Another tip or two about starting and ending travel times. If you leave on an 11:55 p.m. bus, you lose a whole day's travel for that five minutes of travel time. But if you leave on an 12:05 a.m. bus, you can start your Ameripass on the next day and get a full day's extra travel in effect by taking the early a.m. bus instead of the late p.m. bus. Make sense?

I don't recommend running over your Ameripass time limits, now that you can't extend the pass on a day by day basis. But recall that your bus ride is split up into segments. Once you start and clear the ticket hurdle for that segment, you aren't likely to be thrown off the bus at midnight even if your pass expires then. So leaving Memphis at 11:05 p.m. to arrive in Dallas at 5:45 a.m., you should end up in Dallas even though your Ameripass officially expired at midnight. The main problem here is that the 11:05 p.m. bus departure could be delayed waiting for another bus until 12:05 a.m., when your pass would be considered to have expired. Ooops! So don't plan things this close, but keep this tip as an option if the need arises!

My personal recommendation would be to strongly consider the 30 day Ameripass, due to its relatively low cost per day. In 30 days, you can see most of the U.S.A. On the 60 day pass, you are more likely to spend more days without traveling. Yet you will still be paying for those non-travel days even if you don't use them.

If you prefer the more leisurely pace, or have the time and want to travel more, the 60 day pass is also a good bargain. But you can see much of the USA on a 30 day pass with planning and the tips below.

You can also mix an Ameripass with an advance purchase ticket (currently $59 one-way 30 days in advance). So you could see the U.S.A. on a 30 day pass, end up in Yellowstone National Park to go camping for a month or two, then go back to school using the $59 one way advance purchase return ticket, stopping at several intermediate cities along the return route segments. You could also end up in Mexico or Canada, tour that country, and then return home with one of the $59 tickets.

If you use this approach, you can enjoy some spectacular scenery and bus trips at very low cost in Mexico too. Compared to a 60 day ticket ($599), your 30 day ticket ($409) plus one-way advance return ticket ($59) will save circa $130 US. You can buy bus tickets to see most of Mexico over the course of your available trip time (2 weeks+) for $130 US. In Mexico, even first class air-conditioned bus travel is a lot cheaper than in the USA. Costs of food and other trip expenses in Mexico would also likely be less than in the USA (except for film - take plenty!).

Alternatives to Greyhound Bus Lines

Since absorbing Trailways, Greyhound has had a near monopoly on national bus travel. A few regional bus company competitors, such as TNMO (Texas, New Mexico and Oklahoma) coach lines, remain active. You will find former segments of Trailways operating in some states and Canada. Within Texas, we also have Kerrville (TX) bus lines. I was somewhat startled to see our Greyhound bus driver get off, and a Kerrville Bus lines driver get on to drive us on a route through the Kerrville Bus Companies territory.

For Ameripass holders, you may be asked to get tickets cut (printed) instead of just showing your pass and ID. Usually, this request is because you will be riding on a non-Greyhound segment which requires a ticket for receiving payment.

In the past, you had to wait in line and get tickets cut for each trip even on Greyhound. That paperwork is now thankfully waived and you just show your Ameripass and some photo identification to get on the Greyhound bus.

A series of bus lines catering to travel to and from Mexico and the U.S.A. has also developed, such as El Conejo (the Rabbit) lines and others. These post-NAFTA Mexican bus services are especially interesting if you want to visit Mexico or points south. But you can also get low cost trips to cities such as Atlanta from Dallas. These buses are most popular with Spanish speakers for obvious reasons.

Mexico is a great place for the long-distance bus traveler, largely due to the very low cost of even its first class air conditioned buses. A number of lines such as Tres Estrellas Del Oro (3 Gold Stars) offer service from most of the border towns. Costs are about a fifth to a third the cost of similar distances in the U.S.A. The views are often spectacular, especially in crossing the mountain plateaus of Northern Mexico. You can also connect to buses going further south such as Guatemala or Merida in Mexico City.

In the past, the Ameripass was usable to go from one end of Canada to the other along the Trans-Canada Highway. Unfortunately, that option is no longer part of the Ameripass. You can however still arrange to visit Montreal, Toronto, and Vancouver with your Ameripass without paying extra fees. You can also purchase tickets to transit Canada on their own bus lines too (formerly Trailways Canada). There is a bus line from Vancouver to Alaska that is reportedly quite scenic, but rather expensive as an extension.

Greyhound ticket agents will sometimes claim they don't go to certain popular tourist locations such as the Grand Canyon or Yellowstone National park. They do, but not directly. Concessionaires run bus service into and out of some parks (such as Yellowstone). For the Grand Canyon, you can get off in Flagstaff's Greyhound station and catch one of two van services to the park (cost including entry fee to park is only $31 to $39). Once in the Grand Canyon park, there are free bus services that take you out along the beautiful canyon rim for breath-taking views.

Bus Schedules - Freight versus People

Bus schedules seem crazy. Most buses seem to arrive at night or at early morning hours when you would rather be sleeping. The secret is that bus schedules are set to ensure that bus freight is picked up and delivered within minimum times between regional cities where most of the bus freight traffic lies. The freight provides the profits for the bus lines, while carrying the passengers pays the costs. Since the freight is time sensitive, it dictates when and where buses run directly. Local buses are run to collect and consolidate freight at regional collection and transfer points.

Now you know why nothing happens in the bus station for hours, then suddenly there are four buses all arriving and leaving at about the same time. The simultaneous arrivals and departures are needed to collect and shift the freight from one route onto another. Most of the traffic is city to city within a region. If a bus fails to arrive on schedule, the other buses may be delayed to ensure that the freight it is carrying is removed and transferred properly. Some of that freight includes heavy items that are time sensitive, like blood products frozen for transit.

A side effect of this freight scheduling approach is that you will often find buses arriving in cities early in the morning. Their goal is to provide time to off-load cargo and contact and transfer it out. But for the traveler, you can move overnight with the same buses, and arrive early in the morning in a new city with the whole day ahead of you for exploring.

About Buses and Where to Sit

Most Greyhound buses are surprisingly new, with first class seats and air conditioning/heating and a small bathroom. There is an art and a science about where you sit in any bus which merits discussion here.

The worst place to sit is right next to the bathroom at the rear of the bus. I admit I don't like the smell of chemical toilets, so I sit up front. Besides the smell, the engine noise is higher in the back. You also are trapped behind lots of people when you want to get off the bus.

Most of the alcoholics and smokers head to the back, hoping to be far enough away from the driver to avoid getting caught smoking or drinking. In a recent change in law, you are not supposed to have alcohol with you in the bus. No longer do they have to prove you are intoxicated, just having a bottle with you is enough to get you tossed off. Smokers will often have 90 minutes or so between rest stops.

The one redeeming feature of the back of the bus is the last row of seats, which is three across on most buses. In a near empty bus, this longest bus seat is the ideal spot for a short person to sleep. I would also bet a fair number of babies have gotten their start back here too.

The very front of the bus has disadvantages too. The best view on the bus is from the seat next to the driver. Photographers take note, this is the seat to get the best and most scenic photos. But usually this seat is reserved for handicapped folks, so you should be ready to move out if asked. At night, you get the full glare of on-coming lights in your eyes. I also don't like the lack of a seat in front of you, under which you can stretch your legs. The first seat has a metal panel which has a small hole for your toes to poke under, but otherwise you can't stretch your legs out. If you get a talkative driver, or one trying to stay awake, you may end up having to also engage in conversation when you would rather be sleeping.

Most drivers don't allow kids behind or next to them, due to problems. The seat behind the driver has the worst view, if any, on the bus. The driver usually puts their travel cases on the seat, or at best, in the overhead rack in the seat behind them. So you have to move your items to another rack behind you, a minor inconvenience. If you like playing music loud with your headphones, pick another seat, as the driver is very likely to hear and object to any noise here. The major advantage is you have less road lights at night (as the driver blocks these). You also have somewhat more space to put your feet forward compared to the other front seat, but not as much as with the other seats. Finally, you are ideally positioned to be the first passenger off the bus.

If you are a music lover, you should bring your tunes with you, but also bring good foam padded headphones that minimize outside noise. Spare batteries, and plenty of tapes are also recommended. Many times you won't be able to find an AM radio station, let alone FM radio, in the mountains and valleys between them, so tapes can be really useful. But if you bring and play tapes, don't sit in the first third or so of the bus unless you feel lucky or play very quietly. Better to sit towards the rear of the bus where you have more distance from the driver.

The choice of left or right sides isn't arbitrary either. At night, you will get more on-coming car lights in your eyes on the driver's side of the bus. During the day, you can project which side the sun will be on during the morning or evening hours, based on your general direction of travel. I prefer to avoid the direct sunlight myself, so I sit on the shade side of the bus.

Finally, the right choice of odd or even rows will put the window frame either directly in your way or right behind you on many Americruiser II buses. For photographers and sightseeing fans, check for the amount of dirt or smudges on the window too before you jump into a row. Sometimes I have snuck out and cleaned a spot or two on my window to make photography easier. Most folks won't notice these factors until after they have sat down, and the bus filled up, when it is too late.

The rest of the bus can be divided up into fill-in zones. Some people want to sit up front, partly as the aisles are narrow and it is easier for them to get on and off. So the first 3 or so rows tend to fill up even on a relatively empty bus. Conversely, once the first few rows start to fill up, people move on past into the rear of the bus, spreading out. As the bus starts to fill, people tend to move to the back, hoping to find seats there. Parents with kids tend to head towards the back, presumably to be closer to the bathroom? Students seem to do the same, perhaps to be as far away from the authority figure (driver) as possible too? So most buses seem to start filling at the front, then spread out and fill from back towards the front.

My own experience suggests that the best place to sit is towards the front, in the fourth or fifth row. You are close enough to the front of the bus that you can get off and on quite quickly. You are far from the smells and secretive smoking at the back of the bus as you can be. You can stretch your feet out under the seat in front of you (unlike the first row). You can see forward, out the front window (from the aisle). You can play a radio or tape player, just not as loudly. Finally, these seats seem to be the ones least likely to get taken in a nearly full bus. If you sit here, you probably have a better chance of getting both seats to yourself.

Aisle or Window Seat

Choosing the aisle versus the window seat is a matter worth considering. The window seat has a better view, and is really needed to do any bus photography (see below). The aisle seat has a decided advantage for those of us with longer legs. We can stick our legs out farther towards and even into the aisle than we can under the seat in front of the window seat. So if you have long legs, or need and want to stretch out, look into the aisle seat. If you are shorter, or want the better view and plan on taking photos, go for the window seat.

When you first sit down in the seat, be sure to check to see if the seat actually works to move backwards and forwards. If you don't, you may find yourself stuck in an awkward position on a full bus, so you can't change seats even though your seat is broken.

Why You Need A Sweater in Summer, or about Bus Air Conditioning

The window seat is also right next to the air conditioning outlet. Not only is cold fresh air blowing up out of the lower window vent into your face, but it is also chilling the metal vent under your side and arm. So you will probably need a sweater or other warm clothing on most buses even in summer. You can either wear the sweater or use it as insulation against the side of the cold metal vents.

Travel Modes

How you use your Ameripass bus pass depends on how you want to travel and what you want to see. Some folks don't want to sleep on a bus, so they are limited to traveling circa 400 to 500 mile jaunts followed by an overnight hotel stay and city visit on the next day. Others like to travel for a half day or so, perhaps 200 to 250 miles worth, then stop overnight. Both these approaches are perfectly valid ways of traveling. With either of these approaches, you will be limited to about a 6,000 mile trip around the U.S. with a 30 day Ameripass. Neither approach will let you do a true great circle tour of the U.S.A. unless you have the longest duration 60 day Ameripass.

If you add some of the long distance express bus transits, you can cross the U.S. in about 3 or 4 days, depending on starting points. This approach works especially well for sparsely populated transits across the scenic top of the U.S. through Idaho and Montana and the Dakotas, where cities are few and far between. Once you reach either coast, you can switch to the more leisurely city to city exploring pattern suggested above.

For city visitors, the center of the U.S. also has some cities worth visiting, depending on your trip themes and interests. Chicago, Detroit, and Cleveland to the North, Saint Louis, Denver, and Memphis in the middle, and Houston, Dallas, or New Orleans in the South are popular mid-country stops. Most cross-country express buses will stop in and pass through one or more of these city sequences.

Great Circle Tour of the U.S.A.

The great circle tour of the U.S.A. is possible to do on a 15 day Ameripass or longer. The idea is to make a great circle around the U.S., going up one coast, across the top of the country, down the other coast, and back across the bottom or middle of the country to your starting point.

For example, starting from Dallas, you could travel to El Paso, then San Diego, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Portland and Seattle (or Vancouver), then across Idaho and Montana to Chicago, Detroit, Cleveland, Philadelphia, and New York, to Washington DC. and down to Miami, and back through New Orleans to Houston, San Antonio, and Dallas. On a 15 day pass, you would need to spend over half your nights on the bus, but with reasonable luck, most of your main city stops above would allow a full day of exploration. Close-in cities like San Diego and Los Angeles would involve a short, few hour bus trip between them with most of the daylight hours left for exploring.

On a longer 30 day bus pass, you have the luxury of filling in the center of the country. For example, I like criss-crossing the Rocky Mountains, so I may go between Denver and Las Vegas and Reno and the California coast via several routes (esp. over the Donner Pass). You can stop off in Phoenix and Tucson, visit Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon, or possibly take a scenic Old West Tour if you like. You can visit all the major border towns from San Diego to Brownsville, getting a glimpse of modern Mexico. Or perhaps you want to visit Vancouver from Seattle, see Toronto from Chicago, and visit Montreal by way of New York City for a glimpse of Canada tour?

The big advantage of the great circle tour is that you really see many of the major U.S. cities, many of the major ecosystems, and some of the great scenic sites and vistas as well. Express buses make it easy to clock 10,000, 12,000, even 15,000 miles on a 30 day bus pass while seeing it all.

With the expense of a 60 day pass, you have the extra time to explore and ability to do 12,000 to 15,000 miles in shorter 200 to 250 miles a day segments. I suspect that most long distance travelers will prefer to extend their time visiting each major city. Otherwise, you will spend a lot of time in small intermediate cities in the middle of the country with few major sites such as museums. Then, in the major cities, you will only be able to spend a half-day or so sightseeing before moving on. So I think that the 30 day trip pattern would be used, but with extra days used to flesh out interesting sites to see in the major cities. You can also use some days for relaxation periods every week or two, perhaps in a scenic national park or other rustic area?

Unfortunately, the seven day Ameripass just isn't quite long enough for you to get to either coast and back around the entire U.S.A. If you only have seven days traveling time or funds available, you can do a mini-circle tour. Such a tour would go on a half-circle, through the middle of the country. From Dallas, one might go to New Orleans and then Miami and up to New York, with a side trip to Montreal. From New York, you could go to Philadelphia, Chicago, and then Saint Louis, and finally back to Dallas. Or you could go west, from Dallas to Denver, to Las Vegas or Reno, San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego and Tijuana, and Tucson with a side stop at the Grand Canyon. A quick stop in El Paso to visit Mexico again, and then Houston to Dallas.

Personally, I don't like returning through my home city when I could be visiting some exotic distant city's sights. But some folks might like to pass through their home city, during several spoke or circle trips out of their city for a week or more. On each return leg through their home city, they can stop, clean up, check on their homes, pay bills, and so on. This approach tends to work best if you are located in the center of the country. But you will spend a lot of your bus time criss-crossing territory near your home. The great circle tour avoids this figure eight pattern, while maximizing your time away from home.

Crashing - or a quick guide to sleeping on the bus...

Crashing overnight on the bus is a great way to cover long distances overnight, while you are asleep, to arrive in a new city early the next day. The key here is to plan your trip into segments which involve journeys roughly 7 to 9 hours (400+ miles) in length.

Naturally, express buses with few stops are preferred over local buses with many stops. Some buses claim to be express buses, but then go local on portions of their routes. Local bus stops mean many chances to get awoken during an overnight transit, and should be avoided. Ideally, you want an express bus which makes a direct overnight run to the next destination, with few or no stops inbetween.

You should be able to find regional connections between major cities where the buses leave in the evening, after businesses have closed (and shipped out their freight for overnight delivery). You get on the bus in the 7 p.m. to midnight time frame, travel overnight, and arrive at the destination city early in the morning. In effect, you sleep overnight on the bus, saving the substantial cost of a hotel room, while maximizing your time during the day in the new city.

One advantage of this approach is that you arrive in the new city early enough in the morning to travel via local bus services to the local hostel or budget hotel. You arrive just as folks are checking out in the morning, money in hand, and are most likely to get any openings. It is much, much harder to turn away somebody in front of you for a room, than someone who is calling on the phone. If you wait until after you have spent the day exploring the city, the rooms at the hotel or hostel could all be rented out. Usually, you can get into a room long enough to take a shower, change clothes, and drop off any unneeded items. Most hostels will check in your excess bags to storage for a nominal fee ($1 per bag). Now you are ready to go exploring, with most sites such as museums coming open after 9 a.m., so you haven't wasted any site-seeing time.

After a good night's sleep, you can check out, and proceed on a short bus hop to a nearby city only a few hours away. Visiting San Diego after Los Angeles, or Fort Worth after Dallas, would be good examples. After exploring the nearby city, you are ready for another overnighter to another regional city hub. This approach cuts your hotel bills in half, yet provides a lot of traveling distance overnight while you are asleep.

You can extend this preference so you travel overnight to a distant city, visit it, then travel back whence you came to visit a city that was near you the previous day. You can bounce back and forth like this across the entire country. Sounds like Mao Tse-Tung, two steps forward, one step back, doesn't it? But the effect is that you get to crash on the bus overnight, and arrive at the start of a day at the new city. The alternative would mean you travel during the day, so you lose some of your time during the prime daytime hours to bus travel rather than site-seeing. Traveling while you are asleep at night seems to make more sense to me.

You can take this program to extremes, and become a bus-zombie, traveling through your own twilight zone of bus mega-miles in a semi-tired state. I personally have trouble getting the same depth of sleep on the bus as I do in a nice bed. So I suggest that you consider taking a day off now and again as needed, to catch up on some sleep, see a movie, or otherwise stock up on munchies and do laundry. Places like Idaho and Montana are great for enjoying the mountains and recharging your batteries, without too many local museums or sites to worry about seeing or missing.

I am a light sleeper, so I have an especially hard time sleeping on a bus. Here are several tricks I use which may make your bus crashing nights more restful. Start by bringing a pillow of some sort. You can put your laundry into a pillowcase, and use it as a pillow. You can bring a real small pillow, as I prefer. The smallest and lightest pillows are inflatable plastic ones. I dislike the plastic inflatable pillows, as they tend to make you sweat and are uncomfortable. Bring a cloth covering (or use a tee-shirt) or pillowcase to make the plastic pillow more acceptable if you use one.

The next secret to sleeping well on a bus are to get ear plugs. Who cares if the rotten little tyke behind you cries all night, if you have 30 dB earplugs in place? I like the silicon plastic lumps you can roll into a ball and press into your outer ear, but the twisted ear plugs work okay too. Most drug stores carry these earplugs, and they cost only $2-3 for two pairs or more.

While buying earplugs, buy a sleeping mask in the same drug store section (cost around $3-4). The sleeping mask is a dark, opaque cloth that covers your eyes, with a flap over the top of the nose, and elastic band to hold it on your head. The older version had two elastic bands, which were adjustable, and better quality sewing. The newer version has only one band, and it tends to pull out, or did on the two I have tried. I simply punched a hole in the side of the mask, and tied a knot to hold the elastic in place. With a sleeping mask in place, you won't be bothered by lights from oncoming traffic, local road lights, or someone using a reading light at night behind you.

Finally, I usually have a sweatshirt handy. If I have both seats to myself, I simply wear the sweatshirt, or stuff it against the cold air vent at my back as an insulator. If someone is in the seat next to me, I usually grab the aisle seat. Now I use the sweatshirt in an unusual way that works for me, and may for you. I put my arms inside the sweater or sweatshirt, so they are kept close to my body and not flopping around. If the bus is pretty warm, I put both arms into the bottom of the sweatshirt, as if I were going to put it on, but not into the sleeves. The sweatshirt is just left resting upside down on my chest, with my arms tucked into it. Again, my arms don't flop around, but are restricted almost as if in a sleeping bag. Since I am not wearing the sweatshirt, just have it against my chest with my arms in it, it isn't as hot as it would be wearing it.

Another tip is to loosen your shoelaces, or switch to more comfortable footgear (moccasins) at night. You don't want to go barefoot because of possible trash, bottles, or spilled fluids. You should be able to move the footrest under the seats into an out of the way position, allowing you to put your feet out under the seat (except in the first row of seats). From the aisle seat, you can often stick your feet quite far under the seat and toward the aisle at night. If you have been doing a lot of walking, your feet may tend to swell overnight when at rest, so loosening your shoelaces will make you more comfortable.

I also suggest that you remove unneeded pens, combs, cases, and other items from pants pockets into bags or carrying cases. You can't change into pajamas, but at least you can keep items likely to jab you at night out of the way by offloading them at night.

Different people are different in height, weight, and comfortable sleeping positions. Personally, I am too big to be really comfortable in the window seat at night, so I prefer the aisle seat. If I have both seats, I prefer to curl with my back against a sweater or insulator against the window seat, with the aisle seat all the way down. I put the pillow in the crack between the two seats. I put the aisle seat slightly upright, so the pillow stays caught between the two seats. I let the leg against the seat come up onto the two seats, and the outer leg parallel to it but being too long, it sticks out under the aisle seat space. In effect, I am curled up in a semi-fetal position, with my back to the window. With earplugs in, and sleeping mask in place so the passing bright lights of cars and roadway don't disturb me, I am good for hundreds of miles of sleep.

I generally do not put things on the floor of the bus. On a dirty bus, or if someone spills something near you, you risk getting yucky stuff on your bags. When buses are cleaned, items on the floor are fair game to be cleaned up and removed from the bus. I also don't check bags in at the side of the bus, as that slows me down too much and I travel light anyway. I prefer to put my bags near me, in the overhead rack above me. Before I toss my bags up there, I feel lightly with my fingertips to see if there has been a spill or other mess left there, just in case. If so, just check another nearby luggage rack. Rarely happens, but once was enough to teach me to check first!

Avoiding Montezuma's Revenge

Traveling means visiting new places, and that means changes in the bacteria encountered in local water and food sources. One avoidable side effect is traveler's diarrhea due to these unsettling changes. You can avoid many problems by drinking fluids such as sodas or beers which are likely to be filtered better than water. In some areas, avoiding leafy vegetables or peeled fruits is a good idea too. Heightened cleaning of hands before and after eating may also help.

Personally, I recommend the pink solution - literally. You can buy either the original Pepto-Bismol (trademark) or the similar acting but cheaper pink bismuth generics available at your pharmacy. I prefer the tablets, since they are much lighter to carry than an economy size bottle equivalent. A few doses, taken every other day or more often if needed, seem to be all that is needed to prevent the problem entirely.

Still, I prefer not to have to use the rather marginal in-bus bathroom for sitdown emergencies. So I make it a habit that when in doubt, I go to the bathroom during rest stops, even if I don't expect to do much there. Going right before you sleep also seems to remove yet another distraction from getting a better sleep too.

Emergency Supplies

If you forget all other tips, remember this one. Always, always travel with some drinkable fluids. You can refill a plastic soft drink 20 ounce bottle with water for your emergency supply, and dump it when you get off the bus rather than carry the water around. But it is always possible to have a bus breakdown miles from any source of water, and four to ten hours wait for a replacement bus. Now think of hot weather, without any air conditioning, and you will understand why you need to carry emergency water with you.

Food is a distant second to water or soda as far as emergency supplies go. You probably want to bring some hard candies, such as Werther's butter rum flavor hard candies. Chocolate is fine except where it might be exposed to heat and melt into a mess. Chips usually get crumbly too easily, so I avoid them, except for crush proof packages like Cringles Potato Chips (trademark). Cookies can be okay, especially Oreo-style ones, but keep a trash bag handy for messy fragments and crumbs. I double bag them in the store, keeping one bag to collect the trash and one to store the rapidly dwindling supply of cookies.

My personal recommendation is that you stock up on fruit, when you can find it. You get not only food but also moisture from fruits such as oranges. Fruits seem cooler even in hot climates. Fruits also tend to be sparce on most fast food diets, so adding some while traveling is a wise precaution.

Greyhound Lines Inc. has arrangements with McDonalds, Burger King, and lots of other fast food places to bring in their buses for feeding frenzies. The buses often get freight storage areas on the fast food establishment property. Sometimes the bus terminals reciprocate with fast food places on their property. In any case, travelers after a few weeks of fast food are likely to rebel, and want anything but another MacWhopper.

One tip is to carry a second string or mesh bag with you while traveling. You can use it to hold large containers of soda (the economy size), cookies, fruits, and even sandwich making stuff. I like to carry a metal knife, spoon, fork, and small can-opener with bottle popping ability with me too. These few items make it possible to not only vary my diet with regular groceries, but also greatly cut the cost of snacks and drinks enroute. With 12 oz. soft drink cans at a $1.25, it pays to buy a 2 liter bottle with five times the capacity for about the same price at a grocery store. You can also stock up on items you like such as cheeses, summer sausage, and other items which can be eaten without refrigeration. This approach works especially well for the long-stretch express bus trips which run 32, 40, or even more hours.

Another tip is to look around quickly and carefully while the bus is coming to the announced fast food meal stop. I often see a small market, gas station store, or other restaurants near the regular meal stop. While others are waiting in line, I can stock up on groceries or at least get something other than a burger. You can still get a meal to go or use the restroom, with fewer lines, right before the bus loads up.

Film and Bus Photography

I admit to being spoiled. I have located some sources for short-dated film via the Internet and Shutterbug magazine, running $1 to $2 per 36 exposure roll, and also mail-order processing. The net result is to bring my film costs way down, enabling me to shoot many rolls of film during a trip. By buying in advance, I not only saved a whole lot of money on film, but also the time to try and find what I needed at a remote tourist site where prices are often high. When you start talking about shooting 50 to 100+ rolls of film on a trip, saving $4-5 per roll or more really adds up fast!

The key to bus photography is trying it. At worst, you will get a photo that will be a reminder of some scene from your trip. Don't rest your camera against the window of the bus, as vibration will jar your camera. To cut reflection and glare from windows, either use a polarizing filter, or bring the lens close to the window. Some bus windows now have plastic shading or shatter-proof sheeting which can cause rainbow-like "fringe patterns" with polarizers. So remove the polarizer if you see this effect and shoot without it.

To reduce vibration, I cup my lens front with my hand, in a ring, holding it and cushioning it against the window. You can also use a rubber lens hood if you have one too. Scratches on the window won't show on the photos, although grime and smudges can reduce image contrast. You can also walk forward in the aisle, and take a photo through the large scenic front window, then return to your seat.

A subtlety of successful bus photography is to pre-visualize your trip. Sometimes, the driver can suggest which side of the bus will be the most scenic for photos, as they know the routes well. Obviously, going over the Rocky Mountains at night is going to make scenic photography difficult, so consider schedules and daylight hours carefully in planning. You can also pick more scenic routes, such as the Donner pass through the Rocky Mountains into California rather than the less scenic coastal route. Some places like Idaho, Montana, and Colorado (Denver) have many scenic routes which offer many enroute photo possibilities.

Sunrise and sunset are also magical times for photographers, because of the quality of the light. Using our bus-crashing approach, you will often be entering a city around sunrise, with an opportunity to take such photos if you wish. You will also often have a chance to take sunset photos before you leave on that late evening bus too.

Don't leave your camera bagged up in bad weather. Some of the best travel photos are taken during bad weather. Don't miss out. Using proper care, you should be able to snap some great photos during lulls or breaks in storms. One trick is to use a plastic bag to protect your camera, with a hole the lens pokes through secured by some masking tape. Don't forget some raingear for the photographer too!

Traveling light as a photographer usually means bringing only a few prime or zoom lenses, the main camera, lots of film, a few accessory filters and cleaning items, spare batteries, perhaps a small strobe and a camera carrying travel bag. A fast normal lens and a 28-210mm zoom (or 24-105mm and 70-210mm zooms) offers a lot of capability for the weight. I usually add a superwide lens (14mm to 24mm range), a 100mm macro, and a teleconverter (2x) to this mix.

I also prefer to bring a second small camera that also uses 35mm film (an Olympus XA with 35mm lens). Someday, my main SLR camera will fail, and only the film from my backup camera will come out. I usually shoot one roll in four using the backup camera, sometimes near duplicates of the primary camera shots. I rarely run out of film in both cameras at the same time, so I am always ready to shoot one or the other. I can also carry the small backup camera in a pocket, with extra film and a detached strobe for it.

Safety Tips

Be sure you have serial numbers and related information on such items in case they are stolen. Your home owner's insurance may cover you on trips, as may some renter's policies. Check this option out if this concerns you, and get a rider if you need it. Personally, I don't take my best and most expensive camera or lenses on such trips for many reasons, including the possibility of theft.

You should also keep a photocopy of your credit cards and phone numbers to call if lost to limit your losses. This tip is especially important with debit cards, as they have different and higher loss limits than your credit cards. Never carry or mark your passwords or PIN numbers on any of your cards. If you carry checks, carry only a few, know the numbers of the checks, and who to call to cancel the checks at the bank if they are stolen. Don't bring your check register, and keep your account balance separate from your checks too. If you use travelers cheques, you need similar information with the numbers of your checks. Be sure to keep your register of used travelers checks separate from the checks. If they are stolen, you will know which ones were stolen and which ones were already used.

Expensive watches, sunglasses, and jewelry should probably be left safely at home. I bring several credit cards and photo IDs with me, and split them up in my pockets with a rubber band or two. I have a throw-away wallet, without any real credit cards but various plastic membership cards and with an impressive wad of $1 bills. If I get mugged, it is easy to give up the throw-away wallet. Why get beat up and sent to the hospital because the thief is irrate they didn't get any money or you got into an argument? Don't argue, give them the money, and get on with your trip. A money belt works well for some people, but many thieves will check for one if you don't distract them with your throw-away wallet.

Using Zen to Beat the Weather

One followup tip on the subject of weather. You can usually get a newspaper with long range weather forecasts for the entire country. Using your bus pass, you have the option to change your route and your trip to avoid areas of bad weather, at least temporarily. By being flexible, you can reduce your chance of being snowbound in a high mountain pass, for example, by going further south to cross the Rockies into California. If it is too hot in Texas, it will often be just right in Montana or Maine.

So use the flexibility of your bus pass and plan your trip to avoid problems. By letting your trip develop around the weather, rather than fighting the weather, you use the Zen of long-distance bus travel to your advantage.

Packing

The major art in packing properly is knowing what to leave behind. Keep in mind the Amy Vanderbilt school of traveling motto - You can always buy what you need, when and where you need it. The less you have to carry, the better. You are traveling after all in a semi-civilized country, through major cities, not into the heart of a dark continent!

You have to decide what style of bus traveling you want to do. Many students and world travelers are used to carrying all their equipment on their backs. They happily march off for miles of carrying 40 or more pounds of gear in 100 degree plus heat. Not me! Personally, I prefer to travel very light on-site, with little more than my camera gear, raincoat, and guidebook. So I tend to leave my laundry bag and other items in storage in lockers.

The good news is that it is much easier now to find lockers in the major cities than it used to be. The bad news is that this is because they raised the rates on lockers to $2 for a 4 to 6 hour period, and another $2 for any time up to 24 hours after that. So for many of the major cities, it now costs $4 to store your bags while exploring a given city during the day. Be really, really careful to put the five or six digit code printed on your locker ticket in a safe place. If you lose it, it may take over an hour to get someone to retrieve your luggage, and they will charge you $10 for the lost ticket service. The real problem is that when the new electronic units fail, all the attached lockers fail at the same time.

In most of the older Greyhound sites, in smaller cities, they continue to use the older lockers which use a key, and only charge $.75 - $1 for 24 hour storage. In some places, you can store bags for up to 8 hours, sometimes 12 hours, with the local Greyhound agent, again for a $2 fee ($4 for 24 hours).

Since the terrorist bombings of New York City, they have eliminated lockers virtually in the entire city. You will see many surprised and dejected travelers dragging huge bags around behind them in New York City. Here is a tip for Greyhound ticket holders in the New York City Port Authority Building. While there aren't any lockers, there is a Greyhound baggage checking facility on the lower floors. For $2 per bag, you can check in a bag for all-day storage, rather than carry it around. Not well advertised, so many folks don't know about it, but worth doing. Did I mention that you can consolidate several parcels and bags into a big but lightweight mesh bag, rather than pay $2 for each little bag? I use this same mesh bag to carry miscellaneous food and drink items for longer express bus trips too.

Items to Carry

Start with a sturdy and clean bag. Is it really waterproof? If not, then put one or more thick trash bags inside it, or wrap items up in waterproof bags. It will rain on you, somewhere, sometime, during your trip!

When putting in clothes, I like to roll them up together in day kits. Rolling clothes is less likely to cause creases than excessive folding. Putting underwear with shirts and socks makes it easy to grab and change into clothes on the go. The clean clothes all go together in one bag, kept closed and hopefully waterproof.

I put a second double thickness trash bag in the clothes bag to carry dirty laundry. Dirty clothes go in, then when I am running low on clean clothes the whole bag goes to the laundry and gets cleaned. I often bring an ounce or two of laundry soap with me in a zip-lock baggie, adequate to do such small loads. Many hotels don't have laundry soap, or you have to find and buy a full sized box of soap (and then throw it away rather than carry it around the USA). If you get stuck and have to do a laundry in the field, you at least have soap for it. Some folks prefer to clean their dirty clothes in the sink during each hotel room stop, but not me. I find fresh clothes help me perk up after a night on a bus, and smell better too!

Personal grooming items can go into a zippered carry bag, or a zip lock baggie (waterproof, a plus). Soap is messy unless it is in its own waterproof container (from drug store). You don't need full sized bottles of shampoo and the rest for most trips. Use samples and small sized items to save on weight. Don't use up all of that tube of toothpaste, but leave enough for that upcoming trip. You can usually shave pounds off the weight of these items with a little planning.

One cleaning item or option may be useful for those taking multi-day bus trips. Bring one or more sponges with you. Sponges can be used as an alternative to a shower. The French claim to have invented the sponge bath, but the concept is simple enough. At the least, you can use a sponge and/or towel to clean and refresh yourself while changing clothes in a bathroom during a bus-stop on a multi-day trip. A zip lock baggie or tupperware sandwich container can hold the sponge or sponges (one can have soap solution on it). Despite the deodorant ads, civilization won't end if you don't take two showers a day and use their products. But you will feel better after a sponge bath, and more alert too. Deodorant and other scents do have a place, especially in warm weather.

Bring some aspirin or other pills, but not an entire bottle. I use a 35mm film cannister to hold various vitamins and aspirins that I might need.

A raincoat is necessary. Personally, I prefer the slightly heavier but much larger poncho style plastic raincoats. These are big enough that I can wear it, my head in the poncho, but cover a backpack behind me too. The smaller rain capes are lighter, but don't have this coverage power. If you get caught on a trail in a downpour, the larger rain poncho is much more likely to keep you drier. In a brisk cold wind, the poncho can also provide a good bit of protection from the chill. You would be suprised how cold some desert and mountain sites are before the hot summer sun rises.

As I noted above, I like to have metal spoon and knife for eating. Plastic spoons often break on ice cream. A real metal knife is often needed where plastic won't do. I also carry a small can-opener with bottle top opener built-in. This tool makes it easy to open a can of fruit cocktail when on a long bus trip.

A map is very handy when traveling, especially when following the Zen approach to free-form traveling. Guidebooks to cities are handy. The Budget Hotels Site can also be downloaded for listings of local hotels in various places. Besides typical guidebooks, you can also use the Internet to provide useful listings about sites to visit, hours of operation, costs, access, and so on. If you use a trip theme, you may also want to bring along guide books related to that theme (e.g., Guide to Art Exhibitions).

I find sunglasses and reading glasses to be necessary, along with a few pocketbooks to read during longer bus stops. I also pack a microfiber cloth to clean these glasses and my photographic lenses too.

Bring some quarters, and resupply yourself as you go along. A bunch of $1 bills is also useful, while you can get $20 from most debit or ATM machines as needed. Having coins in hand as you get off the bus may enable you to get one of the last available lockers, while less prepared travelers are still looking for change machines. I also don't trust many change machines with $5 bills if I can help it. So a supply of change is handy too.

A sewing repair kit is small and inexpensive from most drug stores ($4-5), and weighs only a few ounces. Since I usually have only a spare pair of pants with me, a needle and thread could come in handy. The buttons and other items such as a safety pin are also inexpensive and lightweight insurance.

A pen, paper, some stamps, and envelopes for mailing are useful. Don't forget an address book with your friends addresses and make a list of who got what postcard or note (so as not to forget anyone!).

Any special medical requirements you may have are also obviously necessary. I also throw in a thin container of dental floss, as nothing drives me crazier than something stuck between my teeth that won't come out. Nail trimmers and combs are similarly useful.

You generally won't have any trouble finding toilets with toilet paper, at least if you check while you are going in. Still, it doesn't weigh much to stock up with a few feet of the stuff before starting out. A small packet or half-dozen Kleenex (trademark) tissues can be handy too. I like to have a few of those alcohol swab tissues with me for emergencies. These few ounces usually earn their keep on most long trips.

A watch that is easily reset to various time zones is handy. For some folks, a travel alarm clock might also be useful and needed, especially in budget hotels with no wake-up services.

We noted above that a radio and tape player could be very handy, especially for long trips in mountainous areas. Bring some tapes you like. Be sure to bring extra batteries. Many tape players eat batteries, unlike when you play the radio alone. Batteries are often outrageously expensive in road-side bus stops compared to drugstore prices. If your setup has an external battery input, ask about a larger battery power pack and cable at your local Radio Shack store. Some D cells will outlast a half dozen AA cells in most tape players, yet cost much less.

You may want to bring a passport with you if you have one, even if you don't intend on visiting Canada or Mexico starting out. The weather or a special event such as Canada Day (July 5) may convince you to visit. You can also use a drivers license, voters registration card, or certified birth certificate as proof of identity. You can use these documents for cashing checks in some places, and may need them for some hotels or in the event of problems. Naturally, you will need a drivers license to rent a car and even to buy alcohol or cigarettes in many places. Police everywhere are understandably suspicious about people without identification, so have something to show them.

If you like some of the portable electronic games, bring them. If you need a calculator, bring it. If there is something you need I haven't listed here, remember and bring it!

Hostels versus Budget Hotels

If you are planning on staying in the low cost hostels, you may want to bring your own towel(s). Many hostels don't supply these items, although they do supply sheets and pillowcases. Check with your hostel guidebook for more items which you may need too.

Hostels are no longer just for the young, with many catering to all ages now. You don't need to be a member to use most hostels, although you will pay a small surcharge as a non-member. Keep your receipts. The major US hostel groups offer a discount on membership if you have stayed at a member hostel for 3 to 5 days in the last year. Better yet, join before you leave, so you get the full list of hostel sites and member privileges!

Many big city bus terminals have special phones with posted ads from local budget hotels and hostels which you can call (using 2 digit codes). You can also look up low cost hotels via budget hotels online. In other cases, you can try the phone book, or simply ask departing passengers for tips on where to stay. Naturally this works best in smaller towns or scenic sites than in larger cities, but fellow bus travlers are more likely to pick hotels near the bus station too.

Hostels are usually the cheapest places to stay, but they are also sometimes booked to capacity during popular events and traveling times, especially in the summer. You can however ask a hostel to contact their member hostel in the next city and make a reservation for you, which many will do at minimal or no charge.

Hostels usually charge $12 to $24 for shared facility rooming, meaning multiple beds or bunk beds in a single sex sleeping room and one male and one female bathroom per floor. They often have television rooms, small stores, local travel information, and even cooking facilities. Some hostels have private rooms for $20-$40 or so, but not all. You will also find lockers or storage services to leave your bags while touring the city.

Budget hotels are usually at least double the price of a hostel, often more. You do get a private room. Where the costs are similar (e.g., near Los Angeles Greyhound terminal), you may find shared bathrooms and showers. Most of the low cost motels are around the outskirts of the city, where land prices are low, rather than in the city center where the bus stations generally are found. In many places, a downtown budget hotel room will cost $40-$50-$60 and up. Again, always ask for a discount, especially at the higher end hotels, and you may save 10-20% on your bill.

Day Bags

I have a camera bag that also carrys my raincoat and perhaps a 20 ounce coke bottle, some hard candies, sunglasses, and extra film. Add some guide book pages, a map, and a tape player and headphones. Wearing a cap, and with a sweatshirt if needed, and I am ready for a full day of traveling and city sightseeing.

Once back at the bus depot, I can consolidate my day bag into my backpack for overnight trips, or put it in with the string mesh food bag with munchies for longer multi-day long-distance trips. During a day bus trip, I can keep my camera handy, and still have my radio, guidebooks, reading stuff, and cold drinks and candies at hand. Works for me!

Conclusion

I have tried to share some ideas and suggestions on how to make your long distance bus trip around the USA a successful and fun experience. Using these tips, you can save on your travel costs, extend your trip using the tips above, and find the most comfortable seats on the bus for your needs. You can see more, and at lower cost, than using any other form of scheduled travel. By building your trip around a theme that interests you, you will also learn and enjoy your trip more.

Congratulations! You are on your way to becoming a Zen-master of long distance bus travel in the USA.