Focusing Mount Telephoto Lenses for Classic Bronica Cameras

by Robert Monaghan

Few amateur photographers raised on today's autofocus marvels have even seen a focusing mount lens, let alone used one. The concept is quite simple. Separate the "lens head" from the focusing and auto-diaphragm mechanics. Now you can carry several different lens heads and use the one focusing mount with them. Not only does this save significantly on the cost of your telephoto lens assemblies, but you also save the bulk and weight of redundant focusing mounts and assemblies.

The "lens head" is the working optical part of the lens. Many telephoto lenses are actually long focus lenses, rather than true telephoto designs. A long focus lens is a simpler design, in which two or more lens elements are mounted at the front of the lens tube. There is often a substantial air space between the lens head and the camera body mount. Thanks to this design, you can put different telephoto focal length lens heads on the same focusing mount.

This long focus lens design contrasts with a true telephoto lens, in which the length of the lens is shortened by using additional optical elements, often near the rear of the true telephoto lens. A true telephoto lens can therefore be made more compact, but the need for matched rear mounted optical elements eliminates any easy way to put multiple lenses on the same mount.

One modest result is that lens head is often a relatively simple design of only a few elements. Many long focus lenses of only two elements (flint and crown glasses used to control chromatic and other aberrations) are used in various refractor telescope designs. This approach helps keep the cost of longer focus lenses low.


Bronica S2 Mount Nikkor 600mm f5.6 Tele-Lens
Photo thanks to Warren - [email protected]

Nikkor Telephotos for Bronica

Serial Numbers:

A 400/4.5 CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 400111 - 410541 08/64 - 1973 4/4
C 400/4.5 CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 410801 - ? 1973 - 06/75 4/4
A 600/5.6 CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 600111 - 600318? - ? 08/64 - 1972 5/?
C 600/5.6 CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 611001 - 611258 1972 - 01/78 5/?
K 600/5.6 ED CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 650001 - ? 04/75 - 09/77
5/4
A 800/8 CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 800111 - ? 08/64 - 1974 5/5
C 800/8 CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 810601 - 810763 1974 - 11/77 5/5
K 800/8 ED CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 850001 - ? 05/75 - 03/77 5/5
A 1200/11 CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 120011 - 131148 08/64 - 1974 5/5
C 1200/11 CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 131401 - ? 1974 - 11/77 5/5
K 1200/11 ED CU-1 or AU-1 focusing mount 150001 - ? 06/75 - 12/77 5/5
Source: http://home.aut.ac.nz/staff/rvink/nikon3.html

The above Nikkor lenses are evidently capable of covering the 6x6cm format on classic Bronicas (S2/EC). The nikon lens mount adapters don't have any optics in them (both AU-1 and standard focusing units). This design makes it straightforward to make a lens head focusing unit which mates to the Bronica lens mount (and other focal plane shutter bodies). My guess is that only a relatively small number of Bronica lens mount adapters were made (as shown in Bronica brochures). One nice feature of this parallel design is that you can use the same lens head on both your Bronica 6x6cm camera, and then remount it in the AU-1 or standard focusing mount for your Nikon 35mm SLR mount.

The 1200mm was the longest refractor (glass, non-mirror) lens made by Nikon for 35mm SLR photography up to that point (1980s). In fact, lenses in the 800mm and 1200mm range are very hard to use, and not just due to their size and weight. The close focusing distance is rather long at 61 and 139 feet respectively. Just try to find a fractional diopter telephoto closeup lens in 122mm filter thread too.

Most of us would prefer a more generally useful 600mm f/5.6 lens head and 1.4X or 2X teleconverter to yield an 800mm f/8 and 1200mm f/11 combination. Users of 35mm SLR telephotos need to factor in the effects of the square format (horizontal angle of view emphasized) and medium format 6x6cm film size versus 35mm. If you ratio the normal lenses (50mm on 35mm versus 75mm on 6x6cm) as 2 to 3, a 600mm on 35mm is more like a 400mm on 6x6cm in use (and 1200mm on 35mm is more like 800mm on 6x6cm too).


Komura 500mm F/7 Manual Lens and Focusing Mount
Photo courtesy of William Green - [email protected]
Visit Classic and Used Cameras Home Page

Komura Focusing Mount Lenses


The Komura focusing unit II lets you screw in different lens heads into the one focusing mount. There are three focusing scales that can be used (corresponding to each of the three Komura lens heads). You simply twist the one you want into place. The Komura lenses use manual diaphragms and preset apertures. These lenses are evidently designed to cover 6x6cm, based on their significantly larger weight than similar maximum aperture lenses (e.g., 400mm f/6.3 lens head).

The Komura focusing unit I is used with the very fast 135mm f/2.3 preset Komura lens. The large rear lens element (50mm diameter) blocks the auto-diaphragm lever, so the lens is preset. The 135mm lens is 92mm long (out of unit). Komura also made a relatively fast preset 200mm f/3.5 (1/3rd stop faster than f/4) which mounted in focusing unit #1. The focusing mount has distance scales for both the 135mm f/2.3 and 200mm f/3.5 lens heads. [Thanks to Larry Life for these details].

Mount Designs

We will look at two classic mount designs - a simple tube mounting and a more complex "follow-focusing" mount (as used by Novoflex). The simple tube design is just that - a tube with a camera body mount at one end and a threaded end designed to match the interchangeable lens head thread mounts. You just screw the various lens heads into the mounts as needed.

The simplest tube design would require manual or preset operation of the lens aperture. By having the photographer stop down manually, the lens design can avoid complex couplings needed to provide automatic diaphragm operation. Since most long telephoto lenses are used on rigid tripod mountings to avoid camera shake, this extra step is not as cumbersome or time consuming as it might seem. The Komura focusing mounts for Bronica use this simple and low cost manual design.

Naturally, you could design a focusing mount which would permit auto-diaphragm operation. And Nikon did so with its BR-1 focusing mount design. The focusing mount becomes more complex and costly, and due to the 1200mm range of Nikon's lens head choices, even larger.

Finally, you can have an auto-diaphragm mounting which has a "fast focus" or "follow-focus" action. Novoflex is famous for its series of follow-focus bellows mount telephoto lenses. In this case, the telephoto lens head is mounted on a bellows. The bellows can be an auto-bellows model, which has coupling rods to enable automatically stopping down the lens aperture ring when shooting. But since you are using bellows, you can also devise a handgrip which lets you focus by squeezing or releasing tension on the handgrip. This trick gives you surprisingly fast focusing coupled with a convenient telephoto lens design. These Novoflex lenses were usually mounted on a gunstock or similar steadying platform. You just pointed the lens at the subject, squeezed the handgrip to focus, and pushed the cable release to shoot. This ancient technology was very nearly as fast as today's autofocus cameras in the right hands!

Novoflex Follow-Focus Lenses
F/lf/stop
280mm5.6
340mm5.6
400mm5.6
500mm5.6
600mm8
680mm8
See Cult Classics for more info

The good news is that Novoflex made adapters to use with their bellows for classic Bronica cameras, among other medium format focal plane camera mounts. Unfortunately for medium format users, the Novoflex lenses were designed to have high center sharpness, at the expense of lower resolution in the corners. This tradeoff makes sense for most telephoto uses, since the images are usually cropped anyway after shooting to improve composition. But while this drop in sharpness is not too bad on 35mm, it may be objectionable for some users and some uses on medium format.

Besides Novoflex, other such as Burleigh Brooks Inc. (of North Hollywood, CA.) offered telephoto lenses of up to 640mm in similar gun-stock and trigger focus mountings (perhaps Novoflex lenses under their import label?). Birns and Sawyer (of Los Angeles, CA) also provided their Omnitar telephoto and long-Tom lenses (I'm not making that up!) in Bronica and other medium format focal plane mounts too.

Many others have reused Leitz long focus lens heads meant for Visoflex reflex viewer mounting on Leica 35mm rangefinders on their medium format cameras with success too. I have used a Nikon rangefinder 135mm lens head on my classic Bronica cameras too (see photo below).


Nikon 135mm f/4 Bellows Lens Head on Bronica Camera

Homebrew Lens Hacking Designs

You too can make use of this design idea if you have access to a long focus lens head with an aperture ring (to set f/stops) which has enough coverage for your camera's format. By a fortunate coincidence, the long focus telephoto lenses for 35mm often have enough excess coverage to do a respectable job on medium format up to 6x6cm.

Naturally, the $10,000 US Zeiss 500mm f/8 telephoto lens for the Rollei SL66 is a better lens than a remounted 500mm f/8 T-mount lens costing only $129 US in 35mm mounts. But the remounted 500mm T-mount lens combo is available for many focal plane shutter medium format cameras such as Pentax 645 for under $400 US! If you are handy, you can buy a used 500mm f/8 multicoated lens and mount it (e.g., in an extension tube mount) for under $100. Before you sneer at the possible lens quality from a $129 multicoated 500mm f/8 lens, you might want to know that this lens scored all excellents for center AND edge resolution (in Popular Photography tests).


500mm f/8 Lens, showing T-mount, air-space tube, and focusing mount with lens optical elements

Other lenses have been converted to use on various focal plane shutter camera bodies, including the classic Bronica S2/EC series. Our homebrew lens hacking pages describe many of these efforts and success stories. I have the 135mm f/4 nikkor, a 320mm APO, a 400mm f/6.3, and the 500mm f/8 for my Bronica cameras among others - so far. The total cost for all four of these telephoto lenses was under $300 US, so the interest in this approach among budget medium format users is understandable.

Shutter Factors

A few words might be added about shutter issues with long focus lenses. The classic Bronica S2/EC series cameras are focal plane shutter models, so you just need the lens and aperture control. Since the Bronica cameras feature an integral helical focusing mount, you don't even really need a focusing mount on the lens. This feature makes converting lenses to the Bronica mount very simple. Even better, there is an integral 57mm diameter by 1mm pitch thread mount inside the standard Bronica bayonet lens mount. This brilliant design feature makes it a simple bit of lathe work to make a lens tube mount fit the Bronica 57x1mm thread mount. So the Bronica cameras are probably the ideal medium format 6x6cm SLR camera for lens hacking with long focus lenses.

Other focal plane cameras are also easily used with long focus lenses, provided you can provide a focusing mechanism and lens aperture control. The 500mm f/8 T-mount (and companion 400mm f/6.3) lens has both of these features. The 500mm is also easy to convert, since the rear tube unscrews in many models, making it easy to make a second tube to mate with the lens and the camera mount. An extension tube is often used as a start to making such a lens adapter. In fact, one of my tricks is to use one such extension tube with a series of different sized lenses and tubes, each fitted to mount with infinity focus set on the one extension tube adapter.

Unfortunately, lots of cameras use leaf shutter rather than a focal plane shutter. Adapting such lenses is more costly and difficult, as you have to supply a shutter as well. One option is to use an accessory leaf shutter accessory used with microscopes and telescopes. This often pricey accessory makes it possible to connect your Hasselblad 503, Rollei 6008i, or your Kowa 6/66 to telescopes, microscopes, or other lenses and still have a standard shutter.

For cameras or users without this accessory, I suggest finding a damaged normal lens and removing the glass. Now you can put a metal stacking cap into the lens threads (e.g., 67mm stacking cap). Drill and mount the desired lens so as to achieve infinity focus. You will have to stopdown the lens manually or with preset rings (if present). I call this a "shutter lens", as it is a lens used as a shutter.

You can also use some long lenses for view cameras and 6x9cm folders on many cameras. Simply mount them as a regular lens head, and focus with the shutter open (many view camera lenses have this feature with an extra release arm). When ready to take a photo, set the camera to Bulb or Time, trip the shutter (and hold if Bulb), and then trigger the leaf shutter. A double cable release makes this easier and faster to do than to say.

Conclusions

Even if you never use a lens head and focusing mount, knowing about these lenses may suggest some options you can use with your Bronica or other medium format camera(s). You can create your simple mounting tube for many focal plane body cameras, just like the Komura or Nikkor Bronica mounting tubes. And you can use a variety of lenses in mounting tubes to work with this mounting unit. Not only does this make it easy to try out many possible low cost lenses, but it can be a lot of fun puttering around too!


Related Postings:

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000
From: Rich Kurtz [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: More Juicy Little Tidbits

Hi Bob,

Yes, you are correct. Starting somewhere around the MID-1960's Nikon introduced what they called the "TELE-NIKKOR" Lens System, which consisted of 4 separate lens heads and one focusing mount adapter {which was redesigned several times during its lifetime}. The thinking at the time was how economical this would be. The photographer would only have to buy one focusing mount, thus saving money so he could afford to have more than one lens head. These mounts were made available for both the Nikon F mount and the Bronica S2 mount {after removing the helicoid focusing mount from the camera body, used for the smaller Bronica/Nikkor lenses}.

To answer your question about whether or not any of these "TELE-NIKKOR" lenses had "Pre-set" or "Manual" Diaphragms, the answer is "YES" !!! The 800MM F/8.0 & the 1200MM F/11.0 Nikkor's both had a "MANUAL" diaphragm ring near the rear of the "LENS HEAD". In the case of the 800MM lens you could go either way. You could use the auto-diaphragm on the focusing mount or you could use the manual diaphragm on the lens head, so long as you stayed within the aperture range of either diaphragm system. The diaphragm ring on the lens head offerred smaller apertures for increased "Depth-of-Field". In the case of the 1200MM it was manual diaphragm only. The aperture ring on the focusing mount was to be set to wide open and left there. However, if you were going to be using either F/11 or F/22,you could set the manual diaphragm ring on the lens head wide open to F/11 and then set the auto-diaphragm ring on the focusing mount to F/11 or F/22 and just have at it. You see the auto-diaphragm on the focusing mount offerred lens apertures from F/4.5-F/22,whereas the manual diaphragm on the 800MM lens head had apertures ranging from F/8-F/64 and the 1200MM lens head had manual diaphragm apertures ranging from F/11-F/64.

Hope that clears up a lot of things concerning those old Nikkor lenses. However,if at anytime you have a question concerning any of these lenses please don't hesitate to ask,as at one time I was classified as a "NIKON SPECIALIST" by E.P.O.I. {Nikon Distributors at that time}. Please don't ask me anything about the new stuff{from Nikon F3 to present}because I don't know anything about these newer products.

One word concerning the adaptation of one of the Tele-Nikkor lens heads to the focusing mount made for the KOMURA Teles {300/400/500MM}. I don't think I would try that one, because that mount screws into the threaded portion of the Helicoid focusing mount for the smaller lenses. The weight of these Nikkor lens heads is such that I am afraid it might rip the mount right out of the camera.

As for 120 Kodachrome, I haven't shot a roll of that since I got my FIRST Bronica S2A back in August,1971. So like yourself, I've been forced to fall in love with 120 Ektachrome EPR 64 and like yourself I have found that it will more than do the job.

See Ya,
Rick


From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Komura 300/400/500 for S2A and Uni Helical #2

Does anyone know whether the Komura teles that are designed to work with the Uni Helical #2 were all the same, or did they come in slightly different versions?

I have a beautiful 300mm/f:5 head that I picked up in virtually new condition (old stock from B&H originally priced at $450 (!), unloaded by B&H on eBay for cheap), and after hunting around for the helical or a different head with helical for a while, I just decided to by another 300 with a helical, since these are easy to find, keep the new head and the helical and sell off the older head. As it turns out, the newer head is also an optically better example of this lens. Well, it seems that the nicer head is a slightly different thread from the helical--same diameter, but it doesn't screw in. It might just be rough or maybe the threads are slightly bent, but I don't want to force anything and risk cross-threading.

Any suggestions? Can anyone confirm or disconfirm that they made the same lens with two slightly different threads?

David Goldfarb


From Bronica Mailing List;
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Komura 300/400/500 for S2A and Uni Helical #2

David,

Komura made a variety of similar lenses and some for Bronica S2 types.

There are different versions in the same focal lengths and they may not all fit the same mounts.

I had a Komura focusing mount for pre-set lenses not designed for the long focus lenses.

And I had a 400MM f6.3 which screwed into the normal Bronica mount.

Yes, they are not all the same.

- Sam