Extension Tubes Set Screwed into 57mm Thread Mount
See 
Bronica
S Bellows
(photo thanks to Greg Erker)
Has lens board rise but no fall, side to side tilts
With the introduction of the Polaroid Land backs for the Hasselblad and
Bronica cameras, it is possible for the first time to get pictures in 10
seconds (or color in a minut) with a single-reflex roll-film camera.
The equipment will prove especially valuable for those who work in color
or with models when normal testing procedures for posing or lighting
balance are not convenient.
A standard J-33 camera back has been modified to fit the backs of the
Hasselblad and Bronica in place of these cameras' regular magazines. The
modified back uses Series 30 film, producing a 2 1/4 in square print on
the 2 1/2'' x 3 1/4'' photographic paper.
In order to mate Polaroid film to these single-lens reflexes, it was
necessary to machine a special mounting plate that would accurately fit
with the backs of these cameras.
The interior of the Land camera body has been redesigned with the
addition of a built-up pressure plate which in effect moves the film
plane forward from its normal position at the back of the camera. In this
new position, the film lane is exactly where it would be in a standard
magazine.
The addition of this modified pressure plate means the film no longer
moves in its normal path. It now goes up one side of the pressure plate,
across its face and then down the other side before continuing along its
normal path. Despite this, there is little or no hindrance when the film
is pulled to advance it and at the same time develop the exposed film. If
one were not aware of the change in the pressure plate position, the
additional resistance to advancing the film would hardly be noticed
despite the fact that the film must make four 90 degree turns it didn't
take before.
The Polaroid magazine attaches to the camera body in the same way as the
normal magazine. A slide prevents light from striking the unexposed film
when the magazine is detached from the camera body.
In operation, the procedure is standard for the Polaroid camera. The film
is loaded in the back in the usual manner. The back is then attached to
the camera, the slide is pulled, and the single lens reflex is then
operated in the same way it would be with a regular magazine.
The only difference, of course, is that when the
camera-shutter/film-advance knob is wound, it does not advance the film in
the new Polaroid magazine. The film there is advanced when the tab is
pulled to develop the exposed picture.
The marriage of SLR and Polaroid has resulted in a somewhat
awkward-looking piece of equipment because of the nature of the two beasts.
In effect, you have a long flat folding camera back attached to the cube
of the single-lens reflex camera. The results look somewhat like the old
Korelle Reflex with the flat camaera back protruding from the sides of
the square box which houses the working parts of the camera.
As a consequence, to pull the slide from the magazine one needs
long fingernails in order to raise the slide's wire loop so it can be
grasped. On the other side, the back extends so far that if you use a
crank to cock the shutter, it will not completely clear the back in its
normal extended position and must be folded half-closed in order to
rotate.
To hold down construction costs and thus the final price to the consumer
(which is hefty enough) the designer's eliminated the automatic locking
device that prevents the camera shutter from being released until the
slide has been removed from the magazine. Conseqently, it is possible to
release the shutter at any time, which could cause confusion as to
whether or not the film has been exposed.
The only major drawback to the overall design of the equipment is that
the film tab on the left side of the magazine.
This was dictated by the camera's internal mechanism and could not easily
have been avoided. This makes for somewhat awkward operation, as the
camera must be turned upside down in order to pull the tab smoothly and
completely. This cannot be done left-handed comfortably by the average
person.
Despite these drawbacks which are dictated by the structural
characteristics of the two components, when the magazine is attached to
the camera body, the combined unit hangs extremely well and comfortably
from the neck strap. It hangs, as a matter of fact, so that for the first
time the camera lens is pointed straight forward instead of down at the
photographer's feet.
The magazines for the Hasselblad and Bronica are extremely well
constructed and thought-out pieces of equipment which will prove useful
for those who need Polaroid film with this type of camera.
The designer and manufacturer of the adapter is Ken Wisner. It is being
distributed by Professional Camera Repair Service, 37 W. 47th Street, New
York, N.Y. 10036. The price is $245.
Source:
reviewed by Harvey Shaman in Popular Photography March 1964 pp. 106-7
From p.60 August 1966 Popular Photography with photo of ''Japanese Ad for
Bronica offers a match-needle for through-lens measuring'' with photo of
camera with experimental meter mounted on left side of camera, and
smaller photo of meter and speed coupler.
It's advertised in Japan's Camera Mainichi magazine for March 1966, but you won't see it in the U.S.A. for a long time, if ever. Just slip this 29,800 yen ($83 approx) CdS match-needle hood on the Bronica, andyou've got through-the-lens metering - the first time in a 2 1/4 SLR. The match-needle is visible in the hood, along with the image from the lens, or can be seen in a window atop the outside of the hood. Let's hope EPOI will relent and bring this item to these shores as soon as production in Japan is ample enough to warrant it. - N.R.
Bronica model A prism permits eye-level viewing of Bronica, replaces
normal hood assembly. Image is corrected laterally, is right-side up
(model B prism, placed on top of normal hood, will continue to be
manufactured, is not replaced by ''A''). Price $135. Distributed by EPOI
New York.
Source: June 1963 p. 45 Popular Photography Camera Accessories
Guide
Photograph shows example of Bronica prismatic viewfinder. What is unusual
is that this prism fits on top of the regular Bronica waist level
viewfinder (using what appears to be a pair of side mounting hardware
screws on an inch long rectangle of metal that extends down over the top
of the waist level finder panels). The prism mounts over the outside of the
waistlevel finder popup
sides, while extending forward but nearly flush with the front of the
waist level finder. The prism highest point is at the front one-third
point, where it appears less than 1 3/4'' high. The eye viewing point
can't be seen in the side view shown. The key advantage is the obvious
reduced weight factor over a full solid prism mounting. By the 1960
date, this accessory is for the Deluxe Bronica.
Source: Sept. 1960 Popular Photography article - 2 1/4 Square Accessories
Add Versatility photo
Bronica's
Mini-Prism mounts on WLF
I recently purchased (for only $20)
a Bronica mini-prism in original double snap leather case. The
prism is unique in that it mounts on the Bronica waist level finder!
By coincidence, I had recently seen my first illustration of this prism
in an accessories for 2 1/4 cameras article from an early 1960s Popular
Photography issue. So this item was presumably for either the Deluxe or
early S models.
Two side thumb screws are turned to tighten two
internal metal bars down onto the left and right sides of the finder. A
previous owner had put several turns of gaffers tape around the half-inch
wide metal tab ends. That's a good idea, as it both protects the WLF
paint job and makes the setup tighter. A
recess in the prism front matches the WLF front cover height. Two
short pins at the inside rear
of the prism provide proper centering position. The mini-prism pops on or
off in ten seconds by easily turning the large side thumbscrews. These
thumbscrews project 3/8ths of an inch out and are easily grabbed.
The eyepiece is mounted at the rear, at a ninety degree horizontal
position. When you look through it, you see a crisp image of the finder
screen. Focusing is easy, and you see the entire ground glass area to the
edges on my S2a. The image is darker than the plain finder by a stop or two,
and also about half the apparent size. That is still huge compared
to my Nikon 35mm finders, including sportfinder prism.
There is very little eye relief,
perhaps 3/8ths of an inch for eyeglass wearers. The eyepiece has an
expanding vee-shaped series of threads, but they don't look designed for
mounting diopter lenses. There is a 3/16ths inch or so raised rear to the
eyepiece. I suspect a small enough diopter lens could be
easily glued in there with a dab or two of household cement.
The eyepiece is fixed, and doesn't unscrew.
The unit adds only an inch or so to the top of the finder, slightly more
at the prism's peak about one third back from the front of the finder.
This mini-prism is the first waist level finder mounting unit I have
seen in use, and I like it. I am looking forward to freaking out some
photo-folks at our next local camera show with it ;-).
The most delightful thing about the prism is that it is so light, perhaps
only 4-5 ounces or so in weight. I admit to being a fan of the magnifying
hood and waist level finder with magnifier, mainly due to brightness and
lightness considerations. But an eye-level finder was desirable with my
many closeup and long telephoto homebrew lenses for the Bronica.
The position on top of the WLF looks
precarious, but seems reasonably secure. You can invert the camera, and
it stays on. I suspect you could shake it off with violent maneuvers.
Works very well indoors, but you may get some off-axis glare in bright
sunlight if light leaks through your waist-level finder sides. This glitch
isn't the prism's fault, but a waist level finder issue. There is a lower
mirror mirage image barely visible if you raise your eye well above
center in the prism eyepiece. Again, this is not a problem in normal
use.
These mini-prisms can be used on a variety of Bronica classic cameras,
thanks to the
common waist level finder design. I suspect many of these
Bronica mini-prisms are
also sitting atop other brands because of the generic design. There is a
Bronica nameplate at the rear, but no serial numbers. The finish is gray,
rather rougher than the usual Bronica finish. The prism retaining mount
inside on my unit
was a bit loose, but there are screws at the base that can be tightened.
No separation of the silver from the glass was noted on my unit.
Another point in the mini-prism's favor is low cost. Mine came from Ritz
Camera in Arizona - http://www.ritzcam.com/catalog/index.html (Ed Panhuise
[email protected]). The mini-prism was only $20 plus $5 s/h, making it worth
taking a chance. The Bronica nameplate made it clear it was for a Bronica,
but the dealers couldn't figure out which one or how it mounted. Ed
Panhuise at Ritz Camera also made a very generous and spontaneous offer to
take back the
item for a full refund if I couldn't use it. You can't beat that! They
took M/C and Visa, and shipped promptly via priority mail in a foam
plastic wrapped, peanut filled package. At this price, they can forget
about getting it back ;-). I am obviously pleased by their approach,
and will buy from them again.
In summary, this mini-prism is a low cost and low weight way to have the benefits of eye-level viewing without the bulk or expense of the usual prism finder. One unit can be shared between different Bronica models, unlike some of the model-specific prism finders. As with many Bronica items, very little information is available on these accessories. So if you are reading this, you may also get a great buy from a dealer trying to figure out what the heck this is and how do you use it ;-).
Found! A source for Bronica Dark Slides
The whole concept of the replaceable back Bronica system (excluding only
the Bronica C, P, and C2) is that you can swap out backs in mid-roll to
change film
types and even formats (polaroid, 6x4.5, 6x6). But you can't do that if
you have lost the dang dark-slide. One of the selling points of the later
EC series bodies was they had a holder for the dark-slide so you were
less likely to lose it. But what do you do if you have lost yours? Or if
you buy one of the items listed as lacking such a darkslide?
The good news is that you can get replacement dark-slides for your
Bronica from Mr. Jimmy Koh's Camera store. As of December 10, 1997, the
store moved to 2662 Jerusalem Avenue, North Bellmore NY 11710. You can
also phone 516-826-9566/67 or fax 516-826-6257. Mr.
Koh has long been one of the top Bronica dealers and repair facilities.
Cost of the dark slides was $18 each. Darkslides are available for a
number of Bronica models, including the S2/S2a and EC series backs. If
you can find an original darkslide, prices are often up to $25, so
this is a reasonable price. If you have a back worth $200 you can't
use for lack of a darkslide, the cost will seem quite reasonable. The
dark slides arrived in a small bar-coded plastic bag.
Shipping and handling for two
darkslides in my order was only $2, a remarkable bargain. I highlight
this because most photo
buyers can relate at least one dealer who has burned them with a high
add-on cost for shipping and handling. After searching for a best price
on a lens or other item, you may forget to ask about these costs. Only
too late do you
discover an add-on charge of $36 or more for shipping and handling on
your bill. If you return the item, you then get hit again for a 25%
restocking fee from these same dealers. I mention this as a caution to
new buyers to inquire about these costs when placing orders with
unfamiliar dealers. In the case of Koh's Camera Store, the low costs for
shipping was a pleasant surprise.
Given that this is the only source for replacement dark slides I have
found advertised to date, a review may seem superfluous. But the
darkslides worked, fitting exactly, and are the same thickness as my
original ones. The shape is different, however, and they lack the fold-down
pull wire of the original version.
These darkslides are stamped Zenza Bronica in white ink on
a channeled ridge of black plastic a quarter-inch wide that extends along
the outer edge
that sticks out of the camera. This plastic channel appears to be well
mounted to the metal slide which it surrounds with a U-shape. There are
two machine
cut U-shaped pieces about half an inch long taken from either side just
below the plastic ridge. I
believe their purpose is to provide free movement to the neck strap holder
ends which mount nearby on the camera body studs.
Unlike
the original dark-slides, these dark-slides extend nearly 3/4ths of an inch
out to
the side of the back. That gives you lots of room to easily grab and
remove them. But they also stick out enough to get whacked easily on the
camera or in a
disorganized camera bag (ahem ;-). I suspect that with these two cut-outs on
either
side of this exposed metal piece that it would be easier to bend these
slides too. The
dark slides are thin steel, so this isn't a completely unlikely event.
My point is
that these dark slides are not identical to the originals. I
plan on treating these replacements a bit more carefully when in the camera.
Here the
chance of snagging the protruding dark-slide, with neckstrap or clothes,
seems greater. The plastic piece protects the thin metal edge you would
otherwise
press just fine. But the two metal cutouts are unprotected, and are
thin sharp metal. You would have to work at it to get cut, but you could
do it. The original slide is flush and much harder to hit and snag. But it
also has unprotected sharp metal edges to be wary of. There isn't much
reason
to leave the dark-slide in the back when it is on the camera, so removing it
eliminates these risks.
A bigger concern is when the back is off the camera. Now the replacement
dark slides stick out about half an inch all the time. The side metal
cutouts make it easier to snag the darkslide and back while in your camera
bag. I now put the back into its own zip pocket, more to protect other
items from it than the reverse. Chances of it getting bent seem higher,
but only more time will tell how reasonable this worry turns out to be.
But let us not loose sight of the fact that any darkslide that works is
much better than nothing. And these darkslides do work and fit well. Some
folks may prefer the easier-to-grasp protruding piece over the original
design. With care, I think the new replacement dark slides will do the
job.
You probably want to seriously consider stocking up on at least one extra dark slide for when - not if - you lose one. The trouble to make a replacement are substantial, and getting an exact fit without access to machine tools is likely to be tricky. I have read ads of cameras and backs without darkslides, often at a substantial discount. I have also read of backs with home-made darkslides that were loose or otherwise a problem. For a modest cost, these replacement darkslides should eliminate that problem. And the next time you lose one, it won't precipitate a crisis. An extra darkslide or two is some inexpensive and recommended peace of mind for Bronica owners.
Source: June 1963 p. 45 Popular Photography
From an EBAY for-sale posting:
Bronica Electro Control Metering finder for Bronica EC 6x6 camera. This waist-level through the lens (TTL) CdS fider can be easily attached on all Bronica EC cameras and give light readings from ASA 12 to 3,200, from f/2 to f/64, from 2 seconds to 1/1,000th second...
Editor's note:
While the auto-lenses will generally exchange across the Bronica models,
be careful when purchasing accessories. For example, the Model EC has its
own distinct backs, finders, and prisms. Similarly, when you are
reviewing ads in our Bronica For-Sale
listing, note that many items are specific for particular models.
If in doubt, check with dealer/seller before purchase, or arrange for a
test period to be sure. Don't expect the dealers to know everything
either. I have a number of supposed S2A darkslides that won't fit
any classic Bronica model. The posted camera manuals and related
product guide descriptions should help alert you to most incompatibilities.
Date: 19 Dec 97
From: "mahlon.r.haunschild" [email protected]
Subject: Re: Bronica Prisms
Lisa sent me some comments regarding the mounting arrangement on her prism,
[for S2/a] which indicate that it latches at the front and back of the
screen box.
The EC
bodies (mine, anyway) have a latch in the middle of each side of the screen
box, and no recesses, lugs, holes, or anything on the front or back.
Shop on. 'Nuff said. M.
From Photoshopper
Medium Format Forum
Posted by Hans on July 28, 1997
[email protected]
Old Bronica models C,S,S2 and S2a all take the same finders. There were
two types of prism
finder made for these models. A "newer style" came out with the S2a, and
the orginal.
You can order a copy of the old Bronica manuals from Midwest
Photo....www.mpex.com
Finders for the Deluxe won't fit those models.
The fact that your prism attaches for your camera means it was made for it.
The reason the viewfinder seems a bit dark is because of the advances
made in "viewfinder
technology" since the early '70s when these cameras were state of the
art. At the time, even with
the prism, Bronicas were considered very bright.
Bellows offers extreme extension of Bronica lenses, allows lenses to rise
and swing. Front focusing movement on single rail, rear of bellows
positions on double rail to control length of unit in tight closeup
situations. Spring lever stops down diaphragm, Price $135. Distributor
Ehrenreich Photo-Optical Industries Inc. New York.
Souce: Popular Photography June 1963 p. 45 Camera Accessories Guide
Unusual features of some Bellows Extension units..
Source: Feb. 1964 Popular Photography p. 44
Special Bronica bellows is the only one of its 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 field
to have lens movements. The lens standard can be swung, and the lens
raised, lowered for proper image centering.
Limited view camera movements are feature of some bellows. Spiratone
Bellowsmat tilts lens to extend depth of field, raises, lowers lens to
place image at correct height.
Accura Bellowsmaster Seymour Multiscope accept flat
interchangeable lens boards that permit use of ''odd-ball'' lenses, such
as view or enlarging objectives.
[editor note: photos of above Bronica bellows, Bronica camera rides on dual
track while lens is on single rail with lens raised in front
standard. Idea for using lens board for odd optics is further
explored in companion homebrew lens article]
Dual 35mm/6x6 Bellows
Novoflex makes dual use bellows for both 6x6 and 35mm camera use, the
11/TISBIG bellows, with adapters for various 35mm and 6x6 cameras.
SOURCE: Popular Photography Sept. 1970 p.174 (Pentacon 6 to Nikon
example uses 11/NIKLEI-P and 11/LEITIS adapters)
| Extension Tube Set |
 Lens Mounted On Tubes |
 Reversing Ring on Lens |
 Reverse Mounted Lens |
All lenses produce a circular image which is projected thru the lens
onto a focusing/film plane. Camera bodies will only use a central
portion of that image (180 degree round fisheyes excepted) and will use
either a square or rectangular section of it to go onto the film.
The focal length of a lens is an "optical" focal length which gives it a
magnification value which is greater or less than the "Normal" focal length
for that format, which is the diagonal measurement of the the format. (This
is a simplistic explanation).
Extension tubes shift the focusing point of a lens. In essence, they
magnify the close focusing ability of a lens, but cause the lens to no
longer focus at infinity or other longer distances. The more the extension, the
closer/larger the images but the overall focusing distance abilities will
also be shortened.
Most extension tubes are of fixed length. Sets of them consist
of different lengths which can be used seperately or together. This
means that the overall lengths of the tube(s) is fixed in steps. On the
other hand, a helicoid tube allows variable adjustments of their length, from a
minimum to a maximum length which can be set anywhere within that
range.
Yes, there is a loss of light so exposure values will have to be
increased somewhat. A short extension may mean only a 1/3 of a stop, but
longer ones can mean up to 2 stops or more. Most extension tube sets have a
table which shows the change in exposure value for each tube or combination of
tubes.
This light loss can be ignored if you have TTL metering, but has to
be adjusted for if you don't have it. The Mamiya RB 67's have a set of
scales on the bellows to show the light loss values at the various focusing
distances.
Not much to worry about until you start close focusing, which means
that the bellows is "extended" way out, which is what extension tubes do for
non-bellows cameras.
Hope this helps. Again, this wasn't intended to be scientific, but
a simple explanation.
This is a Square Black Vinyl Case from Bronica and it is Marked: "Zenza
BRONICA
Type-5". The Inside has Black Felt Lining around the Sides & a Grey
Foam Lining on
the Bottom & Top Lid. The Dimensions are: 3-1/2" Wide x 4" Tall x
3-1/2" Deep.
The Back has a Loop so that it can be Carried on Your Belt and the
Usual Metal
"Clips" on Both Sides for Attaching Your Neckstrap. Not Sure of What
this Attractive
Case was meant to hold - a Lens ? a Film Back? a Prism? Guess You
Bronica Users
Know. Appears Near New. Buyer pays shipping.
Bought by [email protected] for $10.27
[Editor - sounds like a film back holder?]
Hi Bob,
I read with interest your Bronica site. Would like to ask you a question
about a lens shade.
Recently I bought an S2. Then I got a lens shade that I wouldn't know
how to fit on the 75mm Nikkor. It's a bayonet type shade, with Bronica
and 75mm printed on it. The front of the 75mm seems to be all screw
threads. Did I buy the wrong shade? Or I simply wasn't trying hard
enough? Or is there a special trick?
the shape of the lens hood looks similar to the one in the accessory
photo on your on-line manual.
Thanks.
---
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998
From: Robert Monaghan [email protected]
To: Albert Ma [email protected]
Subject: hi possible answer - Re: Bronica lens shade
Hi Albert,
Thanks for your note - wish I could tell you off-hand why the Bronica lens
shade has a bayonet mount and the lenses are 67mm threads, but since I
haven't seen the Bronica lens shade setup in person, I can't ;-)
[Possibly this is for a later Bronica model, but mis-sold as an S2 shade?]
However, I have been looking at a parallel issue dealing with faster
threaded lens filter means of mounting filters and hoods, one less prone to
cross-threading filters and lenses, and so I may have the answer.
A number of bayonet mount adapters for screw-thread lenses were developed.
The reason was the obvious popularity of the older Rollei and Hasselblad
bayonet mount filters that just push and twist on and off quickly. And
for the filters, they can be easily stacked and twisted off from a compact
cylindrical stack. A four corner ball-bearing loaded mount on one type of
adapter (Kalt) made it easy to pop filters and hoods on and off of 35mm
setups. An article in Popular Photography by Cora Wright reviewed these gems.
You could/can buy these adapters, put one on the front of your camera,
and then put the matching bayonet mount on your filters. Cost a few years
ago was about $10 for camera mount, and $5 for each filter. Naturally,
you could also put them on hoods, and the Hassy for example has a second
hood bayonet (or larger bayonet filter mount) on the outer edge of the
lens as well as an inner filter mount for smaller filters).
So my guess is that there must be a matching ring that you evidently
didn't get that would mount on the filter ring of the standard lens to
provide these kinds of functions. Can't mate otherwise, it seems to me.
[If it is a lens shade for the later Bronica models, there may be an
adapter ring for upgrading the older Bronica filters to the new model?]
Rollei and HP Marketing both have current medium format versions of these
quick filter mounts, unfortunately at a rather stiff price. Possibly the
Bronica mount was compatible with one of these systems, so checking B and
W or Heliopan, possibly via HP Marketing, might supply a source for the
ring you need? Also filters in the system, if it works. I do have a
Bronica filter, as you can see in the ~rmonagha/bronlens.html site, but
it is simply a (Pentax) UV filter with standard 67mm thread mounts.
Personally, I prefer a lens hood and UV filter on lenses, especially for
older single coated lenses as on the Bronica and my 35mm nikkors. But
getting a filter, even the polarizing filter, on and off is a constant
pain, and yet the 2 stops is too much to just leave it on there ;-) So
that's why I am looking for an inexpensive quick-bayonet mount for my
35mm and 6x6 lenses (I might also glue one mount on the front of my 4x5
lenses, but that's another story ;-).
Hope this extended explanation helps suggest what is probably going on,
possible solutions and sources for the adapter ring, or an alternative
approach and the benefits from bayonet mounted filters. I don't think that
I would do this for every obscure 35mm filter I have got at $5 a pop, but
it would certainly be worthwhile for the very frequently used ones like
polarizer, star, and the like. You have to do the lens hood too in order
to get to the filter mount. Regards - bob monaghan
[From: ECTL Manual courtesy of Mick Doe]
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999
from: [email protected]
Subject: Old Bronica Accessory
from: [email protected] (Sam Sherman) 12-30-99
to: Bronica List
Today I dropped in to a local Pro Camera shop, saw the owner and asked if
he had any old lenses, parts etc. for the older Bronica Cameras.
He looked around and all he could find was a "new" accessory from the
early 60s, still in its original maroon box with gold type - A Bronica
Lens Reversing Ring - product # 81427.
This little item has been sitting in this shop unsold since it was in
current production. It can fit all focal plane Bronica cameras from Deluxe
to ECTL #2. One side screws into the focusing helix and the other side
screws into the front filter threads of the normal 75MM f2.8 Nikkor lens
reverse mounting it for use in taking macro photos.
This odd item is not listed in the Bronica Product Guide in the Special
Bronica Accessories, and reminded me that the Bronica Copy stand and
Microscope adapter are two other oddities also not listed there.
The lens reversing ring could be used to adapt odd lenses to old Bronicas
if something can be made to fit onto the 67MM thread where the lens should
go.
I guess this is the last Bronica purchase I will be making for the old 20th
Century.
.... and what is 20th Century Fox going to be doing next week .. who will
they be...?
- Sam Sherman
[Ed. note: they have 21st century Fox trademarked ;-)]
From Bronica Mailing List:
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999
From: [email protected]
Subject: Lens Adapters and reversing rings for S2 & S2A Owners
I have made up a few Lens adapters to screw into the helicoil focus tube.
They are in the white made from 6061 Aluminum, threaded to screw into the
focus tube. They are knurled around the outside and have a small hole in
the middle that can be enlarged to the diameter of the lens being used. I
have used these to adapted a couple of Wollensak enlarger/projection lens and
a Spiratone 400mm lens to the Bronicas I currently have (S2 & S2a). These
are $35.00 each plus $5.00 S&H.
I also have made up some reversing rings designed to screw into the helicoil
focus tube. They are also aluminum with knurling around the outside. They
are threaded on the other end to screw into a standard Broinca lens (67mm).
These are also $35.00 plus $5.00 S&H.
If order one of each the cost is $70.00 plus $5.00 shipping so you save
$5.00. All you need to do is paint them flat black or I have used black
construction paper and rubber cement leaving the outside silver. This is
necessary to cut eliminate any light scattering or hot spots.
These fit my S2 body, S2a body and set of extension rings so I know they will
fit any of these bodies and possible others with a 57X1mm threaded mount.
If you have any questions drop me a note. All payments via postal money
order and will be shipped USPS 3 day Priority. Prefer not to ship outside
USA.
Don
From: [email protected] (FLEXARET2)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.marketplace.medium-format
Subject: Re: Wanted: strap for Bronica S2A
Date: 08 May 2000
Try Koh's Cameras and other dealers in Shutterbug.
Order the wide strap for Bronica EC or ECTL - these will work fine on the
S2-A regardless of the wings. The post size is the same in all of these
models.
We discussed this some time back on the Kiev88 list.
For that camera, we can go to a stationary shop and buy
those plastic binder spines which are sold seperately from
the file. Cut it to appropriate size, and stick it with double-sided
tape to the back of the filmback.
[Ed. note: posted here for battery info...]
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Battery for Bronica EC TTL meter
Hi Bob:
I have a small problem. I'm so far unable to find the Eveready 542, 3v
battery that Bronica specs for this finder. It's the same size as the
Eveready 544, but, half the voltage. The Eveready consumer help
department couldn't find any record of this battery. He suggested that I
locate two dummy 76's and then use two 76's to equal the 3v requirement.
Have any knowledge or ideas?
Thanks in advance for whatever help you can give.
Joe Morton
