Bronica ETRS 6x4.5cm SLR
Bronica ETR - ETRS - ETRSi
Related Links:
Danny Gonzalez's Review of ETR series and
accessories by model
Bronica ETR comments (" ")
Bronica ETR manual [12/2003]
Bronica ETR Test Report:
Source: Field Check by Frank Grande
The Bronica ETR is a completely new design from the older 6x6 Bronicas,
starting with the leaf shutter lenses and 6x4.5cm format design. Cites
solid design of camera and lenses, and professional feel. Ergonomic design.
Camera is a modular design, so can swap out backs, viewfinders, motor
drive/winders, lenses, and other items to customize to your needs.
Lenses have similar layout and feel, but differ in filter sizes (75mm
takes 58mm screw-in filters, while 50mm and 150mm take 62mm screw-in
filters). Leaf shutter synchronized Seiko #0 lenses. Mirror locks up
after each exposure until reset.
Shutter speeds range from 1/500th second to 8 seconds, electronically
timed. To get longer times, you have to loosen a setscrew on the
underside of the lens and slide the time-exposure lever to the T
position.
To remove a lens, turn lens release button on camera front and press
inward, hold it in, and twist clockwise to remove the lens. To attach,
match 2 red dots, push lens flush, and turn counterclockwise. Warning:
the leaf shutter must be cocked before changing lenses!
The polaroid back uses only a standard 6x4.5cm image area of the film.
Backs have film inserts for faster loading. Safety lock at top lefthand
side of back opens back to remove film inserts.
Removing backs requires dark slide to be inserted. Press push-in release
button to remove backs. Removing backs or film inserts is also easy even
if motor winder or motor drive are mounted.
Since body is sold without finder, you can buy:
Both AE and rotary finder produce upright, laterally correct images. The
rotary finder has 3 positions (click-stopped): upright, 90 degrees to
right, 90 degrees to the left. The rotary finder is slightly brighter
than the AE prism finder.
AE finder meter ranges from EV4 to EV17 with ASA 100 film. Entire
focusing screen area is used for full-aperture readings. Set AE finder on
automatic, and press button on front to see shutter speed being set. A
series of 13 LEDs light up. Green colors indicate hand-held is okay,
while yellow shows 1/30th or slower speeds where tripod recommended. An
over and under exposure LED indicator pair shows out of range conditions.
Set on manual mode, you set aperture and press front button to see
recommended shutter speed setting LED lightup. Set that value on shutter
speed control knob manually.
The screen was rated as moderately bright (back in 1978). Diopter
correction eyepieces of -4.50 to +1.50 diopters were available for
eyeglass users.
To mount either motor drive E or speed grip, remove winding crank by
pulling a set pin. Mount and lock firmly in place the motor drive E or
speed grip. Left handed folks take note: the hand grip is on the right
side with either device. The grip features a built-in shutter release.
Speed Grip has a horizontal winding lever, so you can single or double
stroke it to wind the film and shutter. A double stroke action lets you
keep focused on a target, as when shooting a sequence of photos.
The motor drive E is not a winder, but a full-sized motor drive. It is
heavy, but comfortable. Both the speed grip and motor drive E were quite
handy for steadying the camera at slower shutter speeds.
Stripdown Report:
An electro-magnetic blade trapping mechanism is used in the Seiko#0
shutter. A camera shutter speed dial selects one of 13 timing resistors
in manual mode. The electronics are in the camera body, with only the
electromagnet contacts (2 wires) coming through to the camera lens mount
contacts. A flex circuit is used to avoid fatigue failure from stretched
or flexed wiring. A ball bearing ring at the lens seat couples between
the shutter and the camera body.
Large, hardened gears and a simplified mechanical design is used to wind
film, latch the mirror, and cock the shutter.
A safety panel is used to provide a light-tight covering over the film
aperture. This design approach provides a longer mirror, using a compound
motion in which the rear rises while the front is also swung up into
position out of the way during exposure. The safety panel is lowered
before the mirror starts to swing, and returns only after it has finished
its swing.
A 'lock-step' design is used, so one off subsystem can't upset the entire
system's accuracy. Each motion has to complete before the succeeding
motions begin, and so on.
Interlocks prevent removing the magazine without dark slide in place
The AE finder uses 9 gold plated contacts to communicate with the camera
body and leaf shutters in the lenses. Glass-fiber reinforced plastics are
widely used in the AE finder, film magazines, and camera body.
The biggest deficiency in this camera was the dampening of mirror
mechanism impacts. Two small foam plastic strips at the rear and front of
the viewfinder frame's underside are all that is used to dampen mirror slap.
Vibration damping air pistons would have been a better and more widely
used choice.
Meter sensitivity pattern shows center weighting mainly by drop-off in
very edges only of pattern. Top-bottom and left-right centers were
however part of the pattern. The center-weighted pattern was also
slightly bottom weighted.
Shutter speed performance looks good from 8 to 1/125th second. Both
1/250th and 1/500th were slow by circa 25%, outside the standard
boundaries at 1/500th second. The slower speeds were within about 5-6%.
Noise level was circa 50-60 millivolts, with vibration levels at .45
volts, but both are meaningless without comparisons not supplied in
article.
The stripdown summary rated the materials choice, assembly and finish,
and repair access as good. Adjustment provisions were fair to good. Key
parts could be easily replaced (yes). Modular construction (in four major
elements) was ''mostly'' used, while seals against dirt were only fair to
good. Major stripdowns were not required for frequently made
adjustments.
ETR Lenses
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Source: Popular Photography, Nov. 1978 Bronica ETR Lab Report by
Norman Goldberg and Michele A. Frank
| Three Bronica ETR Lenses Tested | ||
|---|---|---|
| 40mm | ||
| f/stops | center | edge |
| 4 | 53 | 33 |
| 5.6 | 59 | 37 |
| 8 | 59 | 42 |
| 11 | 66 | 42 |
| 16 | 59 | 37 |
| 22 | 59 | 37 |
| 50mm | ||
| f/stops | center | edge |
| 2.8 | 46 | 29 |
| 4 | 51 | 29 |
| 5.6 | 51 | 29 |
| 8 | 58 | 32 |
| 11 | 58 | 32 |
| 16 | 58 | 41 |
| 22 | 51 | 41 |
| 150mm | ||
| f/stops | center | edge |
| 5.6 | 34 | 30 |
| 8 | 38 | 30 |
| 11 | 38 | 30 |
| 16 | 38 | 34 |
| 22 | 38 | 30 |
The 40mm f/4 MC zenzanon lens had distortion of -1% and lost 2.4 stops of light falloff
(in corners). The 50mmf /2.8 MC also had -1% distortion and lost only 1.5 stops. By contrast,
the 150mm f/4 MC zenzanon lens had +1% distortion and only lost 0.4 stops of light. See
the article for more details and test conditions.
The 40mm f/4 lens resolution results are especially impressive for such a wide angle lens.
This lens rated all excellents in center resolution, and half its edge resolution values
similarly rated excellent too. By contrast, the 150mm lens rated no excellents, and had
5 ratings of just "acceptable", 3 "good", and just two "very good" ratings. Ouch! But check
the later lenses of this series lens tests, as they are improved over these early mid-1970s
lenses in testing.
| Bronica's ETRS, the quick-change artist of professional cameras, has been selected by both the Air Force and Navy after extensive testing of all medium format camera systems. And its no surprise, because Bronica defines system as maximum versatility... |
| Bronica Images, Issue no. 2, Fall 1988, p. 7 |
|---|
OCE Sample Super-Angulon
Photo
Source: Zenzanon Lenses brochure - E810588 - printed in Japan
Zenza Bronica Co. Ltd.
2-2 Shi-ogawamachi Shinjuku-ku
Tokyo 162 Japan
Phone: Tokyo (03) 267-0211
Cable address: BRONICA TOKYO
Telex Call No. 0232-2096 Bronc J
Sharpening your Image
Bronica Zenzanon PS Lenses are the best way to sharpen your image!
Before PS lenses, the rule of thumb in optical design was that increasing
contrast diminished resolution - and vice versa. By using advanced
computer-aided MTF optical designs, laser beam alignment, and new
multi-coating technology, Bronica engineers have changed the rules. PS
Lenses achieve both increased contrast and increased resolution,
resulting in the sharpest image in the business.
PS Lenses don't only achieve sharpness. Through innovative design they
also achieve absolute color fidelity and perfect color balance.
Fully mechanical lenses can't compare to the precision of PS
electronically controlled leaf shutters and aperture
half-stops.
Superbly engineered and manufactured, PS Lenses let you do more with your
art - predictably, day-to-day, lens-to-lens, with none of the surprises
that are so hard to avoid with lenses that have 100% mechanical leaf
shutters.
Everything about PS Lenses is designed with a professional in mind -
smooth action, rugged body, just the right feel, and dozens of other
little details to make your life easier.
There are 7 PS Lenses - Zenzanon PS 40mm f/4; 50mm f/3.5; 65mm f/4; 80mm
f/2.8; 110mm macro f/4; 150mm f/4; and 500mm f/8. All have a fully
automatic diaphragm, half-stop capability, and shutter speed range of 8
sec. to 1/500 and T.
Bronica Zenzanon PS Lenses are available from your Bronica dealer...
Source: Bronica Images, Issue #2, Fall 1988, p.8 - Courtesy of Tom White!
Bronica Images reaches over 10,000 registered owners of Bronica
cameras (1988 publication date)...
Super Angulon PCS 55mm f/4.5 Lens
Camera and lens design improvements have steadily advanced medium format
cameras into areas previously reserved for large format. This 55mm f/4.5
wide angle lens extends the range of medium format by incorporating the
ability to perform a variety of perspective control tasks.
The Super Angulon PCS 55mm f/4.5 lens has a full range of tilts, swings,
rises, drops, and cross-movements. The only other medium format
competitor (in 1981) was the Pentax 6x7 75mm f/4.5 Takumar lens which had
shifts only, and lacked all automation features.
On the ETR-S body, this lens provides full automatic operation, including
aperture priority automation of exposure, even if two displacements and a
rotation have been applied at once. No other camera comes close to being
this flexible while retaining such advanced automatic features!
Joint Japanese and German research and development project, despite
reality that lens is unlikely to sell in any large numbers due to
costs.
The lens is quite hefty (1,650gms) and large (6 inches+), requiring a
sturdy tripod. Note there is no tripod bushing on this lens, due to the
need to retain flexibility. The lens is a retrofocus design, since the
rear element is 93mm from the film plane (versus 55mm focal length),
allowing the use of a reflex mirror design.
The inside front rim acts as a sort of lens hood, while a 104mm special
bayonet mount is provided for filters - but not for gelatin holders
unfortunately. Glass filters in these sizes are far more expensive.
The multi-coating of the 10 lens elements (in 8 groups) is very effective
in combating flare.
The same Seiko#0 shutter in the regular Bronica lenses is used in this
lens.
At minimum focus distance of 0.5 meters (1.9 ft), the magnification is
only 0.2, but the subject is actually only 11 inches (.27m) in front of
the front lens element.
Depth of field scales are provided in the manual. Floating elements are
used to maintain closeup performance at larger apertures.
The three controls are flexible, so they won't snap or break off in use.
A thick flexible spring with a rigid plastic knob is used on each
control. These controls project well beyond the outline of the lens.
Some 15 full turns are required to give full displacement control range.
The tilt control can range ten degrees up or down from the horizontal,
while the rising front (12mm) and drop (10mm) are equally well-marked.
The tilt control can be used to control depth of field horizontally or
vertically depending on format (horiz. or vertical).
A simple internal sleeve serves to keep the whole mechanism
light-tight.
The 104 degree image circle could actually cover a much wider 6x9cm
format with its 85 degree field of view.
However, while the 12mm movement is generous, a Hasselblad SWC with a
vertical film plane could be cropped to have a similar image as with full
rising front on this lens, albeit slightly smaller (0.7x) on the SWC.
PCS stands for Perspective Control - Scheimpflug, but the lens only
really uses front displacement movements (not rear swings and tilts as on
a view camera).
The lens actually pivots around a line near the rear lens nodal plane,
altering its position in the lens barrel as the lens is focused.
Lens performance was excellent, with evenness of illumination, lack of
vignetting, and uniformity of resolving power. Even wide open, the lens
performs well to the margins, with very slight softening with full rising
front movements.
Unlike most view cameras, the brighter and right-side up image made it
much easier to setup and adjust than a typical view camera setup. For
fast studio work, this camera and lens is ideal. Location work would also
benefit from not only the movements, but relative speed (f/4.5) of the
lens reducing amount of lighting required (vs. view camera lenses).
Source: Test-Report by S.F. Ray; Professional Photographer, April
1981
Thanks to Tom White for Supplying this Resource!
Zenzanon PE PCS Super-Angulon 55mm F/4.5
Type: PCS Super-Angulon 4.5/55
Relative Aperture: 1:4.5
Focal length: 55mm
Image diameter: 104mm
Angle of view: 85 degrees (related to an image circle of 104 mm)
Image format: 42.5mm x 55.1mm
Image diagonal: 69.6mm
Angle of view - Diagonal: 61.3 degrees
Angle of view - horizongal: 52 degrees
Angle of view - vertical: 41.2 degrees
Range of adjustment - horizontal: 12mm to the left and right of center
point
Range of adjustment - vertically downward: 10 mm
Range of adjustment - vertically upwards: 12mm
1/2 Angle of view in direction of adjustment:
horizontal to left or right: 35 degrees - total 50.4 degrees
vertically upwards: 30.5 degrees - total 39.8 degrees
vertically downwards: 29 degrees - total 40.3 degrees
Scale marking horizontal: 12 scale marks to left and right of zero
Scale marking vertical upwards: 12 scale marks
Scale marking vertical downwards: 10 scale marks
Range of pivot (tilt): vertically 10 degrees up or down from zero
pivot (tilt) scale: 4 scale marks, right or left of zero
Iris Setting: 4.5 to 32 (with half clicks)
Focus setting: infinity to 0.5m, (1.9 ft)
Floating element: infinity to 1.5m, automatically
Central shutter: Seiko #0 with exposure time setting from 1/500 to 8
secs, fully synchronized to all shutter settings plus T (time)
Depth of focus control: by use of a slider
Number of elements and groups: 10 elements, 8 groups
Coating: Schneider Multicoating
Reference wave length: 546 nm
Front glass opening: 80mm
Bayonet mount for accessories: 104mm
Filter: Bayonet 104
Outside diameter: 104mm
Overall length: 157mm at infinity
Weight: 1,650gm
The Zenza Bronica Product News bulletin (1986.9) announced the
resumption of sales of Schneider lenses for Zenza Bronica, in
conjuction with the development of an entirely new Zenzanon PS PC
Super-Angulon 55mm F/4.5 perspective control lens.
The PCS lens makes possible:
1 - Control of the perspective effect, as, for example, correction of
converging vertical lines in architectural shots, removal of the camera's
reflection when shooting into store windows or mirrors and for joining
pictures when shooting panoramic pictures.
2 - Control of the depth of field effect and for pan-focusing in order
to cover subjects from the foreground to the background. Perspective
control makes the optic suitable for a wide range of applications, from
architectural shots to commercial photography.
[editor's note: It is not clear whether this is really an entirely new
Zenzanon PS PC..lens or just a re-marketed lens design,
possibly simply modified to PS mount standards using the same earlier
optic design?]
Thanks to Tom White for Providing This Bronica Product News
Feature!
Worldwide production run of only 250 lenses example ;-)...
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:21:58 EDT
From: Oldernell [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: PCS lens for ETRS
Mornin', Bob,
Got your note just now. The PCS lens was made some time ago for the ETRS
only (to my best knowledge). According to one of the knowledgeable tech's
that was with GMI (when they had the franchise) there were only about 250
of them produced. Half of that number were in 'circulation' in the world
and the other half was in the possession of the U. S. Navy. It seems that
when the Navy up- graded from Nikon 35mm to 6X4.5 format, they chose the
Bronica ETRS system and ordered 125 complete systems, i.e., one of
everything shown in the 'exploded view' in the sales literature. This was
confirmed to me by my nephew who was on active duty at that time. The Navy
really got some nice toys to play with on that deal!! Our gov'ment at
work...again.
I'll look around and see if I still have any of the literature on this piece
of glass and, if you'll e-mail me your mailing address, I'll send it to you.
Oh, yes, I almost forgot. The retail price for this lens was $6,000.00 a
copy!! Cough, hack, sputter...
Best, Tom
From: Ted Brownlee [email protected]
Subject: Response to What's the difference between Bronica ETR and ETRS?
Date: 1998-03-24
Jim,
The Bronica ETRSi is the latest incarnation of the ETR 645 format system. The ETR was the original, then the ETRS, Finally the'Si. Visit the Bronica site at www.tamron.com for the nitty gritty specifics. I have shot all 3 models and with very minor exceptions, prefer the latest ETRSi. I would definitely consider the ETRS over the ETR however. Also, the latest "PE" lenses are the best. Buy the most recent you can afford and good luck.
~Ted
[Ed. note: looking for an ''inexpensive'' shift lens for architecture?
Look into 55mm f4.5 Arsat Shift (esp. multicoated version) with 12mm
shift on 360 degrees! My guess is that a Zorkendorfer adapter could be
made for either lens, but obviously a shutter would also be needed...]
From: Kalimex s.r.o. [email protected]
Subject: MC PCS Arsat Shift - 4.5/55 for Kiev-60/PentaconSix or Kiev-88
Date: 1998-05-21
Great news!
New ORIGINAL shift lens MC PCS Arsat - 4.5/55 for Kiev-60/PentaconSix/Exakta-66 or for Kiev-88 cameras is available:
http://www.dedal.cz/optics/medium_format_lenses.htm
Please pay attention that this lens is realy architectural lens; not standard lens "improved" by adding shiting plate like PCS Mir-38 for example.
From: Steve [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica Film Backs Not Rolling Film Tight.
Date: 1998-05-24
Open film back and locate the small silver/take up prong.
Pull up slightly on the prong to add tension to spooled film.
This should take care of the problem, if not then add more tension by
pulling up on take up roller prong again..
From: Tim Sheldon [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica Film Backs Not Rolling Film Tight.
Date: 1998-05-25
This also an easily replaced component and I have mine replaced by a local
pro camera repair facility once a year on general principles as I dont
have a calibrated finger and cnat afford to loose those last few shots
when the metal fatigues and relaxes again. It is cheap insurance
From: Ted Brownlee [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica PE lenses - How good are they ?
Date: 1998-06-08
I use the 50mm and 200mm MC lenses with my ETRSi. I also have the 75mm PE.
I have rented a 250 PE lens. If your reputation does not rely on having
the absolute best glass, keep your MC's. It's something to consider if
you're buying a new lens ~ then I'd definitely opt for the PE's. I have
not been able to find a difference between the two. I use the 200mm almost
exclusively. I have heard though, that the longer tele's in the MC formula
aren't up to the PE's (haven't experienced this either). The 150 in the MC
is quite good. Tamron is the current Bronica distributor. Their optical
expertise is behind the two new zooms, the full frame fisheyes (ETRSi &
SQAi), and the brand new macro's.
I would think that such a system could be had for about a third as much. I
owned a Bronica ETRS system and was displeased with the Bronica polaroid
Back. It did not perform well, I ended up wasting 2 sheets of Polaroid for
every successful proof. This can be relatively expensive... There are many
reputable sources on the internet for such a system such as S and G
Photographic
Equipment where the components that you mention would add up to less than
your budget. The ETRS series is readily available. I was happy with camera
and lenses. Check on the closest focus range on the 150mm, mine seemed to
be about 5' which renders the lenses ineffective at closer ranges. The ETRS
has gold pins between the lense and camera body, which I understand are
better than the silver contacts of the earlier bodies, (ETR Series). If you
intend to get into dedicated flash, the extra dollars spent for the ETRSI
series body would be worth the investment, and permit an upgrade path for
the future.
From: [email protected] (Two23)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Wide Angle Medium Format
Date: 10 Jun 1998
I have been very pleased with my Bronica ETRS (645) and
the 40mm MC lens. Of course, this is not a fixed lens combination, but it
is a very light and easy to handle set up, and cost me $750 total used
this year.
Kent in SD
I considered both then bought the 135PE, and it has been awesome. It
focuses to 1 meter, considerably closer than the 150, and is equivalent to
81mm in 35mm format. This gives me plenty of working distance for
individual portraits and has the added benefit of being a great group
portrait lens. I can throw out the background without having to back too
far away from my subjects. Another benefit is easier hand-holding in low
light, as the magnification is not so great as the other two. It takes
really gorgeous pictures. I have heard wonderful things about the 180, but
I wouldn't trade my 135.
From: Gerry Siegel [email protected]
Subject: Response to What is the Diferance between the ETR and the ETRsi
Date: 1998-06-15
Maybe I can save you time. The ETR introduced in 1976 has the same mount as
the current version and interchangeable backs.
The ETRS introduced in 1978 added a modified lens release button, improved
locking device on film backs and the AE-II Finder E's LED display switched
on by touching the shutter release.
The ETRSI of 1988 added mirror lockup,
viewfinder warning of multiple exposure operation and the option of TTL
flash. A fully interocked film back and the Motor Winder E-1 were
introduced.
Evolutionary changes all. I read somewhere that the two later
versions had more rugged tempered or hardened gears in the winding
mechanism, - think it was in an old Shutterbug. Can't vouch for that.
I would have no hesitation going with an ETR at a good price, maybe as a
second body. The ETRS seems to have a solid reputation among pros I know
who work it hard.
From: Simon Ogilvie [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica PE lenses - How good are they ?
Date: 1998-06-17
The PE lens range predates Tamron's takeover of Bronica. In all Bronica's formats they came out with "P" series lenses (PE for ETRSi, PS for SQ-Ai and PG for GS-1) by reformulating the lenses using computer-based MTF-theory. Many of the new lenses were tested by the photo press here in the UK at the time, and shown to be competitive with comparible optics from Zeiss for Hasselblad. In every case the P-series lenses will be higher resolution and higher contrast than the previous generations (in your case MC, EII or E).
I used to have an SQ-A with some S and some PS lenses, and the PS were noticeably higher contrast, giving better colour saturation. I didn't notice the higher resolution so much, as my technique and my use of the resulting images did not show this up, but I suspect I would have noticed with direct one-on-one comparison. As an amateur that wasn't so important to me, and you will have to decide what's important for you based on cost and perceived return!
Good luck,
Simon.
[Ed. note: sample used price data point (presumed sold by now ;-)]
rec.photo.marketplace
From: James Hoffman [email protected]
[1] FS Bronica ETRS pkg
Date: Sat Jun 20 1998
ETRS camera, 75mm MCII, 120 back ,prism, speed grip,with Strobe O Frame, Pro T handle. all about a 7 or 8 on a scale of 1 to 10. If purchased I will throw in a second body with 120 holder it is rough but works fine. In fact the second back has been serviced by Bronica in 94 or 95. All for $750.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Wilt W)
[1] Re: Flash photos with a Bronica. HELP
Date: Tue Jul 14 1998
>>I have a etrsi Broni with the ae11 viewfinder and a metz 45ct4 attached thru an sca386 adaptor.I dont know how to get the flash to synch with the camera. I think I just set the flash unit to the proper asa ,set the flash dial to ttl find the matching f stop on the flash dial for the camera to subject distance, then fire away.Is there more to this than that ? <<
Nope, it's that easy! Except you don't need to bother with the 'find the
matching f stop' bit. You merely set whatever f stop you wish to use, and
fire away. As long as the f/stop is not too small for the distance (and
run out of light from the flash), you get to pick the f/stop at will.
The W position on the flash is merely a way of dialing down the power
output on the flash so that it recycles quick enough to keep up with some
autowinder cameras. It is a NON-TTL and non-automatic use of the flash.
Don't bother with using this with TTL in the camera, because it would not
be under TTL control any longer.
--Wilt
From: Sean [email protected]
Subject: Response to Bronica ETSR Manual?
Date: 1998-07-15
Call Tamron at (516) 694-8700, I recently purchased a new manual for $5.
Every
manual they have is $5.
[Ed. note: sample price for USENET advertised ETR...]
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: "whiteh2o.michael+sara" [email protected]
[1] F.S. Bronica
Date: Sun Jul 19 1998
Bronica ETR with speed grip, prism, 120 back and 75mm f2.8
lens......$400.00 good (heavily used, works fine)
2ea Bronica 220 backs........$75.00 each
good (heavily used, works fine)
From: Anonymous [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Manual for Bronica Etr needed
Date: 8 Aug 1998
Hello,
There are several places that sell copies of old and heirloom
camera instruction manuals:
Try visiting John Craig's site at:
John S. Craig
P.O. Box 1637
Torrington, CT 06790
(860) 496-9791
http://www.craigcamera.com
[email protected]
He has over 40,000 manuals, and almost certainly has the manual
you want.
You might also check Clyeds Camera's home page at
http://www.clyeds.com/catalog.htm.
It also has some copies of camera manuals.
Anon.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: motor drive
Just FYI, the motor drive E will operate on models ETR, ETRC, ETRS. I
don't know about all the ETRC units spefcs, but I have one, and it
indeed has all contacts?! (prism/motor, ect)
thanks,
...bones
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Nofujifilm)
[1] Re: Bronica-Zenzanon zooms
Date: Thu Nov 26 01:24:21 CST 1998
You've got yourself pointed in the right direction. I grew up with 35mm
equipment and have been photographing landscapes and weddings with my
etrs for
about 10 years. This February, those glorious rebates bit me full boat. I've
been using the etrs-i along with the 45-90 for over a year now. Even without
the Beatty screen, my viewfinder is clean and bright. The images are
sharp. My
clients are happy. One strong suggestion: since this lense is quite heavy I
almost always use the camera with a monopod, quick release, and stroboframe.
Good luck.
David
[email protected]
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: "SLRShooter" [email protected]
[1] Re: Bronica 150mm lens
Date: Tue Dec 08 19:10:24 CST 1998
You may have purchased it right before the PE lens came out but it is an
older lens than that. Between the MC and PE was an E II series. I believe
the MC was the first series of lens for the E series bodies.
From Medium Format Digest:
From: Ken Eng [email protected]
Subject: Response to 3rd Party Shoulder - Strap for Hasselblad
Date: 1998-12-14
Actually, Op-tec makes a wide strap with lugs that will fit H'blads and Bronicas. It's modeled after their Pro camera strap and made of same neoprene material. It has rubber beads on one side to prevent slipping. It's about $20.00US.
Hope this helps!
Ken
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
[1] Re: Mamiya C-330/C-220 Lenses.
Date: Mon Jan 18 05:11:48 CST 1999
I bought a Mamiya C220 with black 80mm f/2.8 lens as a way into medium
format photography. The lens is OK, but "soft and smooth" rather than
"bitingly sharp". This lends itself well to portraiture (lovely creamy
skin tones), but less well to landscape or close-up work.
I have recently bought a Bronica ETRS with 75mm f/2.8 and 150mm f/3.5
lenses, and (for my money at any rate) they put the Mamiya in the shade.
Both lenses are very sharp, and the 150mm in particular razor sharp
edge-to-edge. As a camera, the ETRS is much easier to use than the
Mamiya, so although I like the idea of a TLR, I really don't see when I
will use it again.
All these comments are, of course, relative. Compared to working with 35mm
negatives, both the Mamiya and Bronica systems knock spots off the smaller
format. I have to say that the C220 is also a *great* learning tool, in that
you have no choice but to slow down, and learn how to use a hand-meter
properly.
Ian Wilson
Cambridge
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected]
[1] Re: Bronica ETRS Questions
Date: Fri Mar 12 14:27:30 CST 1999
1. AE and AEII prisms are virtually identical except as follows: You
have to push a button in front of the AE to get the readout. With the
AEII on an ETRS or ETRSi body, just touching the shutter release, even
on a speed-grip, gives you the readout. AE is very inconvenient and
old and should probably be avoided.
the AEIII is a digital prism with more features and different circuits
than the AEII. The III will work fine on an ETRS or i body, but I
believe the ETR body is missing a contact for all functions to work.
2. There's a pin that's designed to lift out, even has a lip on it, to
let the crank come off.
Rick
>I have two questions for Bronica ETRS users out there... > >1. In shopping for a used metered prism for my ETRS, I note that there >are 3 variants; the AE, AE II, and AE III. What are the differences >between these three? > >2. I'm also in the market for a motor drive for my ETRS and wondered, >how do you remove the crank handle from the camera body before mounting >the drive? > >Thanks, >-- >Bill
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: Bill [email protected]
[1] Re: bronica ETRS
Date: Thu Mar 18 08:50:42 CST 1999
[email protected] wrote:
> Does anyone know much about this camera. I just purchased a > used one and want to chat with anyone who can share their experiences > etc. Also it never came with a user manual. Does anyone know where I > can get one or aq copy of one? > > Thanks > > Brian Sprecher
Brian,
I've been using an ETRS for several months now, and while I'm not a
Bronica expert I do know how to use this particular model and really
love it so far. FWIW, I also got mine used... came from a local camera
shop with body, WL finder, 75mm f/2.8 lens and 120 film back, all in
excellent condition for $750. I've since added several more backs, prism
finder (not metered, but hope to get an AE-II finder soon), and 150mm
f/3.5 lens.
The manual is available from Tamron/Bronica by calling (516) 694-8700. I
bought one from them about a month ago for $8.00 and it arrived in about
10 days from the call. At first it looks like an original manual but
closer inspection shows it to be an excellent photocopy. It's even bound
the same as the original!
--
Bill
[email protected]
From: [email protected] (xx)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: MF Newbie Begs for Help w/ Bronica Selection
Date: 7 Mar 1999
If you're getting into the ETRSi system, avoid the 75/2.8 MC lens. The
75/2.8 EII is very good, the 75/2.8 PE excellent. ETRSi and SQai are
both electronically controlled from the body shutter in the lens
designs. Essentially very similiar but different formats: 645 vs 2 1/2
square. The SQ, especially the PS lenses, have always had a good
reputation. The ETRSI is catching up in people's minds.
Rick
From: Roger [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: MF Newbie Begs for Help w/ Bronica Selection
Date: Sun, 07 Mar 1999
The ETRSi is 6 x 4.5 cm, the SQ-Ai is 6 x 6 cm. Both are similarly
specified apart from this.
Zenzanon lenses are made by Bronica/Tamron factories (since Tamron now
own Bronica, expect more new lenses to be introduced than in the past).
SQ and E lenses are not interchangeable, although in theory I suppose
you could make an SQ lens fit an E body with some kind of adaptor - it
has enough covering power.
If you're buying used, I would try to get the current series of PE or PS
lenses as they have better coatings than older ones.
"J. S. Oppenheim" wrote:
> In any case, please, someone, tell me what the > difference is between Bronica ETR-Si and SQ-AI bodies and, yes, where do > those Zenzann lenses come from and do they fit both body types. > > Also, if I buy used today, will the lenses I have collected (it's > inevitable) suit new TTL Bronicas? > > And please, reports welcome from professionals who have supported their > Bronicas from 10 to 15 years.
--
Roger Cantwell
I have been repairing Bronica equipment for over 15 years. I received a
notice several months ago from Tamron that the Bronica factory wll no longer
supply repair parts for cameras over 10 years old......some parts are
interchangeable between the ETR & ETRSi. As to the statement that 95% of
repairs dont require parts.....not true IMO.......
Mike
Robert Monaghan wrote in message
> they are both right ;-) > > since current ETRS/i shares many parts with old cameras, those parts are > available. > > since ETR is past seven years parts window under consumer protection in > USA - Magnuson-Moss Law, any parts specific to ETR and not later models > would not necessarily be available. > > however, there are lots of repairers out there who can do work on ETR > > 95% of all camera fixes do not involve parts, just CLA mostly... > > see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/repairsites.html for repair shop lists > > regards bobm
Date: Thu, 13 May 1999
From: budd gottesman [email protected]
Subject: [BRONICA] 1/60 second sync.
Karen,
I think they (the shop) was thinking of the Mamiya 645 system...with
the 1/60 sync. Bronica ETR, SQ, and G series systems all have leaf
shutters and sync at all speeds. Just watch out for the film
backs...the weak point. If you give them A LOT of use, they eventually
begin to space VERY irregularly; to the point that I once (years ago)
wound up with most of a set of wedding formals/family groupings ON ONE
FRAME OF FILM! That was with an ETR, then...and several months ago, it
almost happened again with the SQa (which I use now), except that I was
noticing that I was getting too many shots. Good luck.
Budd
Date: Thu, 13 May 1999
From: budd gottesman [email protected]
Subject: RE: [BRONICA] 1/60 second sync.
Karen, again;
Have you repairman check out the backs...which is worth it regardless.
Also, make sure that where the door of the actual back closes on the
insert and hits a little lever to start the back counting makes good
contact. In both of my cases, nothing could be found that was awry.
Bronica uses a brass piece to stop the winding in the insert instead of
steel (which may be the reason that the backs NEVER, EVER, space
perfectly evenly...even when new. Other than this, the cameras are
pretty terrific...and even Hasselblads have their weak points...ask
someone who couldn't get his darkslide out after he HAD to use it to
change film.
Budd
From: "Howard Wright - Force9" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica ETRSi Prisms: Whats the difference
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999
But is it worth the extra money?
Howard
Wilt W [email protected] wrote
> >Are there any uses of MF using TTL Flash besides Hassy users (all seem > >pleased as punch)? > >What about the other TTL systems? Any comments appreciated. > > AEII prism is center-weighted averaging only, while AEIII has that and spot > metering choice. AEIII has a exposure 'memory' control, while AEII does not. > AEII controls to 1/6 EV when in Auto, AEIII controls to 1/12EV. AEIII has a > viewfinder 'blind' that blocks light from entering the eyepiece while the > camera is tripod mounted, and it also has a built in diopter adjustment for > adjusting it to you vision. AEII 'sort of' shows 1/2 EV increments in the > viewfinder display, the AEIII actually shows 1/2 EV value shutter speeds. > > --Wilt
From: Bill [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica ETR?
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999
Eric O'Connor wrote:
> Does anyone know how much a Bronica ETR (8/8+ condition) w/ > 75 mm f/2.8 lens > Eye level prism finder > 120 Back > Should sell for? > I'm looking to buy one but I'm not sure what I should pay for it... > Thanks... > -Eric
First, is the 75mm lens an "MC", "E-II", or "PE" series lens? That will
make a huge difference in price! Also, is the 120 back a single-latch
model or one of the later double-latch variants? Again, this will make a
difference in price. Also you didn't mention whether the prism is
metered or not.
Assuming an older ETR body with non-metered prism, a 75mm MC series lens
and single latch back in the 8/8+ condition, I'd think around $700 would
be absolute maximum, and $500 would be much better. I gave $750 for an
early model ETRS in near excellent condition with 75mm MC lens,
single-latch 120 back and W/L finder, all with 30-day warranty from a
local camera shop and felt okay about the purchase. I don't think I
would have given even that much had it not been covered under a warranty
period by the shop!
One other thing... can you run a roll of film through it to test it out
before purchasing, and if not, can you return it for a full refund if it
doesn't function properly? If neither is true, I personally would set
$500 as the limit!
--
Bill
From: [email protected] (Wilt W)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Film back for Bronica ETRSi
Date: 28 May 1999
Howard,
Listen to the advice not to load 120 film in a 220 back. It is
possible to put a 120 Insert into a 220 back, and use it for 120 film.
Then, if you ever decided to shoot 220 film, just put the 220 insert back
in, and load and shoot 220!
--Wilt
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999
From: Kevin Raymer [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] Intro and Newbie Questions
Dear Leon,
You can get an S2A kit for between 300 and 500 dollors. I just bought
one as a backup to my main rig which is an ETRSi.. I gave aroun
$400.00 for it and got camera, back, waistelevel finder, a case, couple
of brackets, a Vivitar 285hv flash, and a pile of cords and misc.
junk... Unfortunately the camera wasn't in as good of a shape as I
percieved it to be advertised.. It works fine, but I'm gonna have to
drop a hundred or so to get it cleaned, calibrated, and serviced...
Maybe Sam Sherman will pipe up here and give you some dope on the
differences between the S2 and S2A, he was very helpfull when I was
buying my rig..
You might also look at an ETRS (no "i") The main difference in the two
models is the "i" is the later version and if you buy the right flash
and the right modules you can get True TTL flash metering.. I don't use
it so and ETRS would be as good for me...
The ETRS and it't kin are 645's that is neg size of
6 cm X 4.5 cm, this is almost the same aspect ratio as a 35mm but about
3 to 4 times as big.. (Sorry if you already knew all that)...
Anyway you can get a decent ETRS rig with lense, maybe a prism finder,
back, and variable quantity of accessories for between $500.00 and
$800.00..
The ETRS is about the time and technological equvilent of the SQ-A..
But you get 15 shots on 645 on a roll of 120 instead of 12 for 6X6...
Incidentally, if you've been out of the Darkroom for 20 years, I was
out for about 15 before I started back, beware Multi-Contrast paper...
You gotta use filters for you contrast grades now...
I was getting nasty, cloudy, low contrast prints.. I tried everything
from new chemicals to different paper, and film.. Well I finally read
the instructions and they told me about Filters !!!!
So I bought a color enlarger head...
Best wishes
Kevin Raymer
[Ed. note: Thanks to Geoff for sharing his unique insights as a repair
tech!]
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999
From: geoff/camera tech [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] reliability of Bronica shutters
>I wanted to to see if any users have had shutter failures during their time >with Bronica LS lenses. I'm curious as to how long one of these leaf >shutters will go on working before ultimate failure. I know yearly checks >and maintenance will prolong the life of a lens and its shutter but it will >still have a finite life span. > >Are the numbers up in the 50,000 cycles or better range. Has anyone even >owned a Bronica lens long enough to actually be within range of failure? > >It wold be great to gear from any long time user of the of the leaf shutter >pieces of equipment. I think we all know of the longevity of the focal plane >products and their classic status. I just wonder if I still have my SQ-Ai in >20 years, will they be calling it classic (leaving out the obsolescence of >it compared to digital by that time). > >Thanks for the info. > >Edwin
For your information. The modern Bronica lenses all formats 645 (ETR, ETRS
AND ETRSI), 6X6 (SQ, SQAI) and 6X7 (GS-1) all utilize the Seiko electronic
shutter. Same size shutter but there are differences from say a PS 50mm
shutter unit and a 80mm PS shutter. Many of the internal shutter parts are
the same but the main frame and some other parts are different.
For the most part this shutter unit is quite reliable and durable. Also
very accurate, much more so than mechanical shutters. But one can never
tell when the shutter will go and they do. I have replaced shutter units
in lenses not more than five years old and yet seen some lenses go twenty
five years or more with the shutter still working fine short of needing
cleaning and calibration.
Strangely enough Bronica is the only company that buys this shutter from
the primary supplier Seiko that is unable or unwilling to supply any
individual shutter parts for their shutter units. This means that the
failure of only one minor shutter part on a Bronica shutter requires
replacement of the entire and very expensive shutter rather than only one
minor or inexpensive part, such as the main drive springs, there are two in
this shutter. Sync contacts also fail. On the other hand Mamiya who buys
their shutters from the same company is able to supply every individual
shutter part for their shutters. In doing work for Bronica for two years I
was never able to get any answer on that one. All the other medium format
companies that are major players supply individual shutter parts. Some
ranging back to the sixties.
I think very highly of the Bronica equipment and optics (it is my first
choice in medium format) but find this shutter parts issue a strange state
of affairs, a major and serious gap in both product and consumer support.
Stocking no shutter parts they also stock very few complete shutter units
and there are often long delays in obtaining complete shutter units
sometimes as long as four months or more is not unusual. They have
discontinued shutter units for all but their most recent series of lenses.
PE, PS, and PG and have no upgrade unit for older lenses such as E, EII,
MC, and S lenses. This means you have to throw your lens away for lack of
a shutter unit or an individual part that might only cost a few dollars for
the part. The baby with the bath water approach. A very short sighted
policy in the long term. One that keeps coming back around to bite them on
a regular basis.
A problem when a bigger company buys a smaller company and has bigger fish
to fry. Inattention to detail seems to become the order of the day and the
tune to march by. God help he who deviates from the program or crys wolf.
The sheep wish to keep dressing in the same clothing, despite the fact it
does not fool the wolf.
Best regards,
geoff/camera tech
2308 Taraval St. S.F.,CA 94116 USA
UNDERWATER PHOTO/VIDEO SALES-REPAIRS-RENTALS
Bronica western regional factory service center
(415)242-1700 Fax (415)242-1719
email: [email protected] web site: http://www.cameratech.com
From the Bronica List:
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999
From: Geoffrey Semorile [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BRONICA] reliability of Bronica shutters
>At 08:01 PM 8/24/99 -0700, you wrote: >>Strangely enough Bronica is the only company that buys this shutter from >>the primary supplier Seiko that is unable or unwilling to supply any >>individual shutter parts for their shutter units. This means that the >>failure of only one minor shutter part on a Bronica shutter requires >>replacement of the entire and very expensive shutter rather than only one >>minor or inexpensive part, such as the main drive springs, there are two in >>this shutter. Sync contacts also fail. On the other hand Mamiya who buys >>their shutters from the same company is able to supply every individual >>shutter part for their shutters. In doing work for Bronica for two years I >>was never able to get any answer on that one. All the other medium format >>companies that are major players supply individual shutter parts. Some >>ranging back to the sixties. > > > > >I shoot square now, but I had the my shutter serviced several >times in my ETRSi. I can't recall exactly what was changed >on each occasion, but I know some shutter parts including >springs were replaced, and it never took more than a week >or so turn around time. Isn't Sekor owned by Mamiya >though ? This might explain why they limit parts availability >to competitors. > >Just a thought, and I might be totally wrong. > >Regards, > >Tim > >Classic Photography
Hi Tim,
Sekor is part of a Mamiya brand name, Seiko is a different company
entirely, you might know them better for watches and other timing devices (
shutter units is one ). If you had parts replaced on a Bronica lens with a
Seiko shutter the parts were used and not new. I will bet they did not
tell you this. Does not matter where you had it serviced. Mamiya does not
own Seiko. Both companies buy their shutter units from Seiko though. One
has no problem supplying internal shutter parts and the other none. It
certainly does raise some questions as to who's cow is being service and
who's gored.
In thirty years in the photo equipment repair industry it has always been
my policy and that of my company only to install new parts unless no other
alternative were available. If you took your new car in for service would
you want your auto mechanic installing used parts in your new car? On top
of that not telling you about it. Air filter, oil filter, gaskets etc. I
think not. No more than you would want your tech installing used parts in
your $1500.00 lens and shutter.
The timing accuracy of a shutter relies on main drive springs made of high
tensel case hardened spring steel. These tire, fatigue and weaken or break
with time as well as use. To bring a shutter back to the best performance
possible requires replacement of these springs. With new ones not used.
Where Bronica shutters are concerned these items are not available new or
any other individual part in this shutter. They are available for almost
any other medium format camera you could name on the market. This issue is
unique to Bronica shutters alone. The question in the mind of the consumer
should be why?
Best regards,
geoff/camera tech
2308 Taraval St. S. F., CA 94116 USA
UNDERWATER PHOTO/VIDEO SALES-REPAIRS-RENTALS
(415) 242-1700 Fax (415) 242-1719
email: [email protected] web site: http://www.cameratech.com
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999
From: budd gottesman [email protected]
To: send�to�list [email protected]
Hi, everyone,
I guess I'll have to call my repair guys (Pro Camera
Service, in Thousand Oaks, California) They're the
Bronica authorized repair in this area; and they do a
great job....reasonable and quick. (Ask for Carl)
I've had the original ETR system until approx. 1989
when I went 'square' with the SQa. I've had a number
of shutter failures in each...but have put a lot of
film through the cameras as well...and I'm not someone
who overly 'babys' the equipment. I haven't had one
go recently (I think we all know, now that I've said
that, that the next job will be the job) and can't
remember what I paid to do the repairs. I don't
believe that I heard of them replacing the entire
shutter; but I don't know that they didn't.....if the
whole shutter would be in excess of $100. but less
than 150ish; maybe they did. That would be very
interesting regarding shutter parts, if true. I'm
fairly sure that these guys would NOT give me used
parts without telling me.
By the way, I've used mechanical leaf
shutters...(Mamiya RB67, C330, M645 {leaf shutter
lens}, Universal, etc, etc....and does "gear train
sound familiar???? That was, other than the spring
(in any Leaf shutter) the thing that would always wear
out. As I understand it, the shutter is set to go off
at 1/500 (approx) second with the spring only (which
is why the LS Bronicas will work at this speed with no
or dead batteries. These electronic lenses use a
magnet to slow the shutter to slower settings. In the
older mechanical shutters, they used the gear train,
which you could always hear on slower speeds (like 1/2
second). You could know it was going bad by checking
the slow speeds and hear the sound becoming irregular
and even sometimes stopping before closing the shutter
again...in essence that would be like a 'B'
exposure...and sooner or later, that would even happen
to Hasselblad. I'll try to remember to check, and I'll
get around to posting the answer from them.
Budd
From: JTC [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica as good as Hassy or graflex
Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999
[email protected] (Quigg2) wrote:
> a "knowledgable" dealer told me that I need to drop my plans to buy a Bronica > GS-1 because the quality of lenses and images are blown away by the Hassy and > the German 6 x 7' camera outfits. > TRU or false??
Quigg,
The dealer probably makes a greater profit on Hassy sales ;-)
Seriously, however, I have a Bronica ETRSi, and I cannot fault
the standard lens that comes with the camera (it's the only
Bronica lens I have so far) - I have taken shots on Astia and
Velvia at f5.6 to f11 which are so sharp even my 8x loupe can't
detect the slightest signs of fuzziness. The flare is extremely
well controlled (in fact, I haven't seen any in my first 20
rolls, which is very nice indeed). Wide open, this lens has
a wonderfully pleasing 'bokeh' (i.e. out-of-focal-field blur,
highly desirable) and stopped down it's so sharp I keep cutting
myself. Drawbacks? None, except maybe that the lenses aren't
cheap. But then, Hassy lenses are as expensive and then some.
Check both systems out for yourself and see if you can spot
a difference in the quality. I bet you can't, unless you are
susceptible to the old 'snake-oil'.
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999
From: Rick Schiller [email protected]
Subject: [BRONICA] NPC backs
NPC brand polaroid backs look virtually identical to Bronica brand backs.
They work exactly the same because the polaroid roller assembly is either
obtained or licensed from polaroid. If your roller assembly goes bad, and
it will, you can obtain a new assembly from Polaroid for about $22. I've
owned both, currently have a Bronica Polaroid back for my ETRS because the
last NPC one I had didn't stay closed as well as the Bronica one.
Rick Schiller
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999
From: gooch [email protected]
Subject: RE: [BRONICA] Bronica GS-1 lock-up
I just picked up on this thread.. I have a similar lockup problem with my
etrs's. The problem was that my cable release was not coming out totally..
pin was slightly depressed. This totally locked my camera from any further
shooting until is poped out. I have since replaced the cable.
An easy check would be once the camra locks up.. slowly unscrew the cable
release.. if you hear the reset click and can fire the camera you know it's
the release.
Phil
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000
From: "Rick Rieger" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica Info
Scott,
Before jumping into Bronica a few years ago, I did some research on
quality and reliability issues. My conclusion was that these issues were
resolved a long time ago, and Bronica was indeed of good quality and
reliability. Several people said that the Bronica film backs were more
failure prone than Hassleblad... that is, after hard professional use.
The frames start to overlap. I haven't experienced this problem, but it
may be true. Another problem, which I have experienced, is that after
7-10 years the lenses may need service. I bought all my stuff used, and a
few of the lenses started hanging up in cold weather. That is, the
diaphragm didn't close and allow the camera to complete the exposure
cycle. These lenses were, as best as I can figure, about 10 years old.
Tamaron repaired them beautifully and quickly (10 days turnaround), but at
a cost of $190 per lens. This charge did include a full check, cleaning
and adjustment. Other than that, the system has done a fine job for me.
Lenses are first-rate, and the handling is good. I have been happy.
If you buy used, let me know and I can tell you how you can easily get an
idea of whether a lens may be in need of service for the problem I
described. This is a test you can run in less than a minute with no
equipment needed, right in the store.
Rick R.
Scott Davis [email protected] wrote
> I'm looking to replace my 20 year old Mamiya 645 system, and am looking at > the ETRsi. When I bought my Mamiya, Bronica had a reputation for > unreliability, and service/parts problems, as well as for their noise. I'm > considering the Bronica now for two reasons: Leaf shutters, and price. If > anyone has any thoughts, I'd like to hear them.
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000
From: "Luc Cauwels" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica ETRS V. ETRSi
Hi Samson,
The ETRSi has both mirror lock-up facility and B-setting
The main advantage of the ERTSi for me however, is the possibility of
TTL-flash-control. for that of course you need more than the ETRSi: also a
SCA-386-adapter and a suitable flasgun (I use Metz 45 CT 4).
Greetings,
Luc
....
> Hi all, > > I am currently using a Bronica ETRS and I have some concerns over features > available, namely: > No mirror lock up facility > Max exposure of 8 seconds (no bulb setting) > > I am considering upgrading to a ETRSi, only if it has one or more of these > features, can anyone advise me if the ETRSi does. > Also, what other differences are there between the ETRS and ETRSi. > > Thanks in advance.
Date: 09 Apr 2000
From: [email protected] (Wilt W)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica ETRS V. ETRSi
>I have some concerns over features >available, namely: >No mirror lock up facility >Max exposure of 8 seconds (no bulb setting)
The ETRSi has both features that are missing on the ETRS. Don't ignore
the fact that using the 'B' setting a lot for long exposures EATS UP the
battery life, as it is used to keep the shutter open. That's why the lens
has the 'T' setting!
The ETRSi, in addition to TTL flash control as mentioned in the other
reply, has in-finder indicators for multi-exposure setting, flash-ready
indicator and flash proper exposure confirmation in the viewfinder, and
some improvements in anti-flare within the body.
--Wilt
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: John Sparks [email protected]
[1] Re: Bronica lenses
Date: Fri May 26 2000
barnack [email protected] wrote:
>Is there big quality difference between Zenzanon (PS) and Zeiss lenses? I >saw some pictures taken with Zenzanon (50x50 cm enlargement prints) and they >don't seemed bad. Are Zeiss CF lenses really so better? >Thanks in advance.
I have both Zeiss and Zenzanon lenses. I actually prefer the
Zenzanon's. The Bronica camera and lenses do not have the same feel of
quality when handling the camera (though my Bronicas have been fairly
reliable and the electronicly controlled shutter in the Bronica is much
more accurate and consistant than my experience with the mechanical
shutters in the Hasselblad). The Bronica lenses are just as sharp if
not sharper and have smoother out of focus areas when using limited
depth of field. I also prefer the ergonomics of the Bronica with
greater range of slow shutter speeds, coupled meter and AE exposure,
easier to load film backs with no extra crank that you have to remember
to use (probably not as much of a problem if you started with
Hasselblad).
John Sparks
Date: 30 Aug 2000
From: [email protected] (Erwin eas)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica prism finder
The AE II is the older meter prism that can be set to auto exposure or to
manual. That's all it does. The AE III is the newest meter prism that can
also be set to manual or auto exposure. However, the AE III can also take
a spot or average reading, where the older AE II can only do averaging
meter readings.
Date: 31 Aug 2000
From: [email protected] (Wilt W)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica prism finder
Another difference is that the AE-III meter controls the shutter speed to
a greater level of precision. AE-III controls to within 1/12 EV while
AE-II controls to within 1/6 EV. Also controls to 32 sec. exposure.
AE-III also has an eyepiece cover integrated for blocking light entering
the eyepiece while on a tripod. And an adjustable diopter eyepiece,
rather than relying on different interchangeable finder eyepieces
--Wilt
Date: 20 Sep 2000
From: [email protected] (Wilt W)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica ETRS vs. ETRSI
The ETRSi has these features which the ETRS does not: 1. Mirror lockup 2. Bulb shutter speed setting 3. In-finder flash ready/flash confirmation indicator light 4. In-finder multi-exposure setting indicator 5. Improved anti-flare coating inside the body 6. TTL OTF with SCA-compatible flash --Wilt
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000
From: "Rick Rieger" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: 'How to' buy a secondhand lens (bronica)
Be sure to check whether the shutter activating pins on the lens move
smoothly and without undue resistance. If you're interested, email me and
I'll tell you how to check this. It can be done in a few seconds without
tools and does no harm.
Rick Rieger
[email protected] wrote
> Hi you all, > > I'am considering to buy a (new) Bronica ETRSi Kit. But due to the high > prices of new Zenzanon PE lenses I want to buy additional lenses from > the used market > > Do you have special tips and recommendations when buying a secondhand > lens? Are there mechanical flaws known? Are some series better than > others (PE vs. Kreutznach). How can I check to optical state of the > lens (scratches, dustparticals, colouring, humidity etc. in the > lenssystem). > > All comments are wellcome. > > Many thanks in advance! > > Huib Smeets > Netherlands
Hi, Robert,
The problem is that a cam or part in the lens shutter that develop
resistance due to wear or perhaps dried out lubrication. When you press
the camera shutter release it has to move the shutter activating pin or
pins on the lens mount so the shutter will open. When the shutter has
opened, it is then electronically timed by the camera. The resistance of
the lens shutter activating pin becomes worse in colder weather. What
happens is that the camera is unable to move the lens activating pin to
its firing position.
The camera locks up. As this problems worsens, the lock up occurs at
warmer and warmer temperatures. Some of my PG (GS-1) lenses were
failing at 35 deg F.
To test your lens:
Remove the lens from the camera body and depress the little spring-loaded
lever on the side of the lens mount and at the same time rotate the
shutter actuating pin(s) on the back of the lens mount. (There is one pin
on PG lenses, two I believe on PE and PS lenses).
Pushing in the little lever will let you rotate the pin(s). If you feel
much resistance, the shutter may need repair.
As you rotate the pin(s), the shutter will fire at the end of the rotation
at its mechanical speed (1/500 sec). Release the little lever and then
rotate the pin(s) back to its starting position.
I had several GS-1 lenses that needed repair in this area. Tamron, in New
York state, fixed them beautifully and quickly, but not too cheaply
(US$190 per lens).
How much resistance is too much? I learned by comparing my five lenses
and a brand-new lens. The "good" lenses had very little resistance at the
beginning of the pin rotation, whereas the "bad" lenses required
noticeably more force to accomplish the pin rotation.
When the test is complete release the little spring-loaded lever and
rotate the pin(s) back to its original position. The lens shutter should
be open at this point.
Hope this helps.
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000
From: "ph" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Green Bronica Etrs SF Limited ?????
> Hi ya > A friend just got a Etrs body - which is green in color with the regular > ETRS nameplate but SF following the Etrs, and the word "Limited" underneath > that. I have NEVER seen one before. Any information on this?? Photo > available if you ask. > > Thank you > Rey > [email protected]
They done a limited edition safari some years ago
They also done a silver one as well
PH
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001
From: "Chip L" [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica ETRSi [Real Life Reviews?]
I have been using the Bronica ETRsi for the past year and half. Been a
great camera so far. People have talked about the MC series lenses verses
the PE series. In my shooting I haven't seen any differnce. I have the 40
and 50 in the MC series; and the 75 and 135 in the PE.
Buying used on either the body or lenses will strtch your budget further.
Though if you are a photography major Bronica has an excellent Student
Purchase Program.
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
From: [email protected] (Wilt W)
Date: Thu May 03 2001
[1] Re: Bronica accessories for ETR, ETRS, ETRSi
The backs and prisms are fully interchangeable in the ETR/S/Si family.
However there are some operating limitations of older accessories on newer
cameras and vice versa. An ETR body will not activate any metering prism
via the shutter release button, and the 'meter activate' button on the
prism must be pressed to take a reading (I think the AEIII has no
activation button at all). And the orginal AE meter cannot be activated
by the ETRS/Si shutter button as it was not designed for automatic
triggering.
--Wilt
From: [email protected] (Wilt W)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Date: 05 Apr 2001
Subject: Re: Bronica ETR-S and ETR-Si....what's the difference?
An ETRS/ETRSi is only aperture-priority AE when used with a metering
prism, it is never Programmed AE.
And ETRSi has:
B setting on shutter control Mirror lock up In-finder flash ready/exposure confirmation light Multi-exposure setting flag in finder TTL flash automation with SCA386 and SCA-300 compatible flash unit A few additional subtleties.
--Wilt
From Bronica Mailing List;
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Digest Number 65
[email protected] writes:
> You can shoot with either a 120 or 220 insert inside a 220 back, but a 120 > back will only work with a 120 insert. For instance, in my GS-1, I think I > could shoot with a 220 insert inside my 120 back, but would not be able to > advance past frame 10, and therefore the second half of the 220 roll would > be wasted.
I admit that the SQ and the GS-1 back mechanism COULD be different in
nature than the ETRS backs (but doubt that they ARE); I have without
limitation been able to put 220 inserts into the 120 shell and fully use
the entire 220 roll without any issue at all in my ERTSi,
That's how I have 3 '220 backs' to use when shooting weddings...I have
two 220 complete backs and I convert one additonal 120 back to 220 thru
the use of the insert only. The film wind and frame counter mechanism is
completely contained within the insert itself, and the shell serves only
as a lighttight enclosure for the insert and to trigger the interlock for
the darkslide release when mounted on the body.
Looking at the William Cheung book on the ERTS and SQ and GS-1, it
***does not*** appear that the ETRS is any different conceptually from the
other members of the Bronica family with regard to 120/220 backs,
magazines, and inserts.
--Wilt
Date: 26 Jul 2001
From: [email protected] (Wilt W)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica Zenzanon lenses
That reply you got is a bit misguided! Tamron owns Bronica. Zenzanon is
the name of the lens under either both the Tamron ownership or the
independent ownership.
The MC lenses are the older design, originating from the days of the ETR
and ETRS. In some cases, the lenses went thru a number of redesigns and
still retained the MC designation and no real name change, such as the
105mm and the 150mm, In other cases, the redesign carried the "-II"
designation, such as the 75mm E-II. Most recently, the PE series was
introduced (*before* Tamron bought Bronica). PE adds the following
benefits:
1) 1/2 EV lens aperture position detents and communication with AE-II and
AE-III prisms.
2) Improved optics, primarily better contrast at wide open aperture in
the wide angle lenses, 40mm and 50mm
3) Easier to user T setting on lens
--Wilt
Date: 01 Aug 2001
From: [email protected] (Wilt W)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: FS Bronica ETR-s system
1: How do I achieve an infinite exposure length, ie: longer than the
8s available on the dial? I was told it's something to do with the metal
ring around the shutter release but after a few hours of playing I can't
get it to keep the shutter open when using a cable release... which is
what I need.
On an ETRS, you must use the T setting which is on the lens barrell, as
the body has no B setting. You unscrew the T locking screw, slide the T
switch, then use the shutter release to open the shutter. Then you cover
the lens with a cap and slide the T switch back to close the shutter.
You only screw the T locking screw back in when you no longer want to use
the T setting switch.
2: What does the red light in the bottom left of the viewfinder mean?
It comes on every time the shutter is released and there's a small black
button on a black background (very Hitch hikers guide) on the left of
the camera that if held causes the light to come on at random intervals
as the camera is moved around... is it some form of camera shake
indicator or a primitive light level indicator or something?
That normally is a shutter close indicator light. It should light
whenever the shutter blades have closed...a useful indicator on a longish
exposure since there is no instant-return reflex mirror that gives you the
equivalent feedback on a 35mm SLR.
The button should light the same indicator as a good-battery indication,
for as long as the button is held in.
--Wilt
Date: 13 May 2001
From: [email protected] (Wilt W)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Subject: Re: Bronica Lens Question.
>When you're doing thirty second >(for example) exposures, you set it to "T" and fire the shutter. When >the exposure is done, cover the lens with a piece of black cardboard (or >whatever) and advance the film crank.
This is NOT advised. It has been published that if you follow the above
procedure, the first exposure to be made (after doing the above procedure)
will take place at a speed of 1/500 sec. In addition, since the film is
advanced slightly before the shutter is fully closed, the picture might be
blurred if the lens is not first covered with a black card or lens cap.
The best way to use the 'T' setting is to slide the control back to 'A' at
the end of the exposure. Then advance the film and re-set the lens to 'T'
if you wish to make another long exposure with 'T'.
--Wilt
From: "Tom Bloomer" [email protected]> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Bronica S vs PS lens test data Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 Most but not all of the lenses were redesigned from the S to the PS series of lenses. The following lenses have the same number of elements and groups in both the S and PS line: 40mm F4.0 50mm F3.5 The rest were redesigned. I have seen several comments over the years that the 80mm PS is much better than the 80mm S - especially in edge resolution. The 150mm F3.5 S was updated to the 150mm F3.5 PS and later updated to the current 150mm F4.0 PS. Not sure if the 150mm F3.5 PS is the same design as the 150mm F3.5 S. If I was looking for a 150mm for portraits, I might opt for the older S lens *because* it is softer and you don't necessarily want a really sharp lens for portraits. I am using the 105mm F3.5 S lens, which produces stunning results. I am guessing that they originally designed this lens to compete with the Hasselblad 100mm F3.5 because it has a similar planar-type symmetrical design and it has no discernable distortion. Keh sells the 80mm PS used for twice the price of the 80mm S lens. In spite of that, the 80mm PS is still the least expensive used lens available for the SQ series. If 80mm is going to be your starting point, I would suggest that you stick with the PS version. www.keh.com sells it for $364 in "Excellent" condition. I have bought several lenses from Keh, and their rating system is very conservative. You might try finding it on eBay and buy from someone that has a 10 day inspection and return warrantee. But I would not give more than 80% of the Keh price for something I bought on eBay. -- Tom Bloomer Hartly, DE "Lawrence Thompson" [email protected]> wrote Folks, Has anyone come across lens test data for the Bronica S and PS series ?, I am most interested in the 80mm and what quality we get for the price difference. I've been to Bob Monahgan's site, the Bronica site and deja news but can't seem to locate the test data. All of my work in b&w architectural (natural light) work but just now branching out into environmental portraits so I'd expect the S to be good enough for portraits. Many thanks
From: "Tom Bloomer" [email protected]> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Where can i find MTF for zenzanon lens Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 The 180mm is one of their newest designs. It focuses very close and has a very good reputation as a sharp lens. The 200mm is one of the worst lenses in the lineup and it does not focus very close at all. You might notice that the 180mm is priced a lot higher than the 200mm. Part of the reason for the higher cost is because it is a better lens in terms of its sharpness and contrast - possibly the sharpest next to their new 1:1 macro lens. If you are using the 180mm for portraits, you might find it a little long compared to the 150mm. You will be making a tight head/face only portrait at about 5 feet and a head and shoulders from about 9 feet(~3meters). Bronica also has a new 135mm lens that is much sharper than the 150mm. It also focuses down to 1meter. You might want to consider that one as well depending on your preference for focal length. -- Tom Bloomer Hartly, DE [email protected]> wrote [email protected] (Wilt W) wrote: >What is the point of getting MTF on MF lenses?...You should choose your camera >based on features needed, feel in the hand, etc. and then accept the >manufacturer's lenses...as there are no third-party alternative lenses, unlike >for 35mm format! > >If there are two brands of cameras which meet your needs, and both feel equally >at home in your hands, then maybe MTF should enter your decision criteria. > >I find it funny (black humor sort of way) that portrait photographers often use >cameras like Hassy or Mamiya or Bronica, and then put diffusion filters over >the lens to degrade the quality of the lens and hide blemishes or give the >picture a 'dreamy' look. MTF intentionally degraded!!! Hallo, thank you and everyone answered. I ask for mtf beacause i have a zenza bronica 4,5x6 and 50, 75 and 150mm lenses. I'm very happy dor 50 and 75 because they are very harp and i can see a lot of details in my pictures but i can't tell the same thing for 150mm zenzanon MC. I asked mtf because i'd like to know if 180mm and 200mm are sharper than 150mm and eventually i could buy one of these.
From: "Samson" [email protected]> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: battery Bronica Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 I have both a Bronica ERTS and a ETRSi and I have this exact problem with either if my AEII prism is attached. The battery will last just days. As Wilt said the prism consumes electricity all the time, I have found this to be true even when the prism is "switched off". Seems to be a design flaw, my remedy is to remove the prism when not in use.
From: [email protected] (Wilt W) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Date: 06 Nov 2001 Subject: Re: battery Bronica >I have found this >to be true even when the prism is "switched off". >Seems to be a design flaw, my remedy is to remove the prism when not in use. > It is not a design flaw...it's a bad metering prism for your camera!!! I owned AE-II and AE-III prisms, and batteries lasted a very long time, weeks and months, not just days. Send the AE prism in for evaluation and repair. DON't simply blame 'bad design' when it is really a 'broken prism meter'. --Wilt
From: "pdavis" [email protected]> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Bronica RF - any experiences? Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 I own two Bronica systems, the 645RF and the ETRSi. I have owned the RF for four months now, shooting about 10 rolls a week. It has worked flawlessly, handles really well, and the images are beautiful, tack sharp. I am using the 65mm lens, and awaiting the redesigned 135mm. Bronica pulled it because it wasn't up to their standards, an admirable thing I think. Some companies would just leave it in production and then when the better lens is ready, announce the "new improved" version. The ETRSi I've been using for over four years, again about 10 rolls a week on average. I've never had any reliability problems, and I bought all my stuff used on ebay. You often hear people spout opinions, "Oh, so-and-so told me Bronica was unreliable, etc." Well, I've heard that too, but the simple truth is, here's one user that's put hundreds of rolls of film through Bronicas and is very satisfied. Perry "mariusz" [email protected]> wrote > hi > > I'm still thinking of any light, reliable field/travel 645 camera. have you > got any experiences with a new Bronica's child RF? > > I'll be grateful for all the motices, suggestions and remarks. > > take care > > mariusz
From: "Shinichi Hayakawa" [email protected]> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: ETRsi Opinions/Experiences ? Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2001 Roland, Was your experience of "quite a bit of vibration" with ETRSi, the latest model? I am asking you this because Bronica has redesigned the mirror mechanism when they introduced the ETRSi. As a result, ETRSi induces much less vibration and noise than its predecessors. In my opinion, ETRSi equipped with a motor winder grip is one of the most handholdable 645 SLRs around. Shinichi "Roland" [email protected]> wrote > Marc Lathrop wrote: > > > > I'm considering a Bronica ETRsi system. My entry into MF from 35. The resale > > prices are low, so used ones look pretty attractive. I like the leaf shutter > > lenses and with a prism finder I can (hopefully) use it mostly handheld. > > All the reviews I've read in the Medium Format Library are mostly good, no > > real negatives except a lot of plastic. > > So, that being said, can anyone offers additional experiences with this > > model ? > > It is not a good camera to hand-hold. It is heavy and an awkward shape > to handle. When the mirror lifts up there is quite a bit of vibration > from the "flap". I would recommend against this camera for hand-held > shots and instead refer you to the many excellent TLRs that can be > picked up quite cheaply or even a folder.
From: Tony Polson [email protected]> Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: ETRsi Opinions/Experiences ? Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2001 "Marc Lathrop" [email protected]> wrote: > > I'm considering a Bronica ETRsi system. My entry into MF from 35. The resale > prices are low, so used ones look pretty attractive. I like the leaf shutter > lenses and with a prism finder I can (hopefully) use it mostly handheld. > All the reviews I've read in the Medium Format Library are mostly good, no > real negatives except a lot of plastic. > So, that being said, can anyone offers additional experiences with this > model ? Hi Marc, I use my two ETRSi bodies for wedding and landscape photography. Overall, it is an excellent, well made and sturdy camera which stands up well to hard use and some abuse. It must be one of the most popular entry-level medium format cameras. But there is a downside. Anything Bronica purchased new costs a small fortune. For example, look at the cost of the metering prism finders. Buy used wherever possible. The camera has a cheap feel to it because several exterior panels are made of plastic. The camera feels flimsy, but it isn't. If you've ever used a Yashicamat 124G 6x6cm TLR you would know what I mean. The casing doesn't seem to fit together with the precision you might expect, but everything inside works just fine. The accessory Speed Grip with wind-on lever (similar to a 35mm manual camera's, but needing two strokes per frame) doesn't fit especially well. Mine sometimes comes loose, and always at critical moments. I find it also needs to be removed for tripod work so that the tripod head and camera body fit tightly. The speed grip is unchanged from the original ETR days and looks it. A redesign is needed IMHO. I have one plain and one metered prism (AE II, the latest is the AE III costing $$$) plus a waist-level finder with built in magnifier, which is what is usually supplied in the ETRSi kits. The metering is averaged with some centre weighting, but not a lot. The exposure modes are metered manual and aperture priority. The prism finders make changing backs a fiddling job. Make sure the back(s) you buy are the latest Ei type with the locking dark slide. The Ei dark slide has a grey handle. Older E backs had black. Beware new dark slides in old backs. There is a huge selection of backs including 120, 220, 35mm (great for landscapes!) and 70mm, plus a Polaroid back. The earlier ETR lenses are not as sharp as the latest PE range, made after the Tamron takeover of Bronica. The PE range includes some superlative lenses, not least the PE 75mm f/2.8 'standard' lens. If the ETRSi you buy includes an earlier lens, consider selling it and replacing it with a PE. They really are that good. My clients have been very happy with prints up to 16x20 inches, and so have I. I use PE 50mm and 75mm lenses plus an earlier PE 150mm MC whose slight softness at the edges makes for a good wedding/portrait lens. I use Zeiss Softar filters (1 and 2) where required. Watch for those wrinkles! The ETRSi has TTL flash metering, unlike the earlier ETRS. This works well with a Metz hammerhead flash and an SCA TTL cord which connects the flash to the camera. I believe that the perfect flash for this camera is the Metz 45CL-4 which has a second, smaller flash tube pointing directly forwards. This helps fill in shadows. In portrait and wedding photography it provides a delightful catchlight in the subject's eyes without being powerful enough to cause red-eye - in most cases. There's no need to buy TTL flash at the outset. A used Metz 45CL-1 is an inexpensive buy and it has a built-in light sensor which cuts off the flash when it has given enough light. As to hand holding, you are immediately throwing away much of the benefit of the larger film format. I use a tripod or monopod for >90% of my shots. The difference in sharpness is noticeable. However, with a good neck strap and using the waist-level viewfinder, you should be able to brace the camera against your chest which will improve things. You will find medium format a big step-up from 35mm. It is much more demanding. The much reduced level of automation makes you work harder than you would imagine, unless you have been using a manual 35mm SLR. The upside is that medium format can help turn a mere camera owner into a photographer faster than you could believe. I've tried to be as open and honest as possible, which may make this message look a little over-critical. I apologise for that, but I feel I should give you a useful review, warts and all, rather than some glowing account which encourages you to buy and later regret it. However, if I had to make a buying decision at this time (after a few months use of the camera) I can say with confidence that I would buy another ETRSi. You should also consider a used 6x6 TLR such as the Yashicamat 124G, a German Rolleiflex or Rolleicord. Or even a new Seagull. I hope this is useful. -- Best regards, Tony Polson
From: [email protected] (Two23) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Date: 08 Mar 2002 Subject: Re: Mamiya RB v. Bronica ETRSi Now I'm considering a Bronica ETRSi. Would appreciate comments from users of these cameras. Robert Monaghan are you reading this, ;-) I've been shooting an ETRSi for the past two years. I mostly do "outdoor" stuff (waterfalls, steam engines, snowscapes, etc.) and shoot mostly E6 film and b&w. The Bronica has served me very well and seems plenty rugged. I had it out over the weekend photo'ing frozen waterfalls at 5 below zero (have used the camera down to 25 below just fine). Lenses are easy to use with gloves on and plenty sharp. There's a nice selection of them on eBay etc. The two things I like best about the Bronica are it's compact size and interchangeable backs. I would not buy a MF camera without interchangeable backs! I don't use a power winder but usually use the AE-2 metered prism. I have four lenses (40mm MC, 75mm E2, 150mm MC f3.5, and 250mm MC) and all the lens hoods. I also have and use the 28mm ext. tube and waist level finder. I always shoot from a tripod. Camera has served me quite well. I often use the mirror lock up. Kent in SD
From Bronica Mailing List: Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 From: "Bill Kean" [email protected] Subject: Re: lot's of questions about ETRS Hi, What the equivalent in 645 format is to 28mm on 35mm format depends on whether you think that the 'standard' lens in 35mm is 43mm (the diagonal of the negative) or 50mm. The diagonal of the ETRS negative is 69mm and the 'standard' lens is 75mm. So, 28mm on 35mm is 28/43x69 = 45mm on ETRS using negative sizes or, 28mm on 35mm is 28/50x75 = 42mm on ETRS using the 'standard' or 'normal' lens sizes. At http://www.photographyreview.com/pscLenses/Medium,Format/PLS_3113crx.aspx the 50mm gets a better review and the 40mm is said to have distortion but they are only one person reviews. See also - http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronetr.html where the comment relates to the properties of a wide angle lens rather than actual distortion. In my own experience, I do not have the 50mm but the 40mm seems OK to me for distortion (as long as you keep it level). It certainly is not anything like a fisheye. Sorry, I do not have any examples to post. According to - http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/gbronica.html the inserts are interchangeable. I don't like the speed grip so I will leave that one to others. Yes, the 105 macro (PE, don't know about the others) focusses to 1:1 without any add on adapter. Bill ...
From Bronica Mailing List: Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 From: "Bill Kean" [email protected] Subject: Re: Re: lot's of questions about ETRS Hi Barbara, I have also read that the E and PE macros are the same but I cannot find any confirmation of that. In fact I cannot find any information on the 100mm macro. As far as PE lenses versus older ones, there seems to be a view that the PE is better but the older lenses (with a few specific exceptions) are pretty good anyway. My guess is also that the 100mm and 100mm macro are different lenses. The 100 or 105 macro on an ETRS will be slightly easier than a 50mm macro on 35mm but not as easy as 100mm on 35mm cameras (obviously!). I have a 50mm macro for my 35mm but I bought a 105mm macro so I only ever use it on my 35mm camera now just because of the extra room between the lens and subject. Sorry, not much actual help here! Bill
From bronica mailing list: Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 From: "Bill Kean" [email protected] Subject: RE: Re: lot's of questions about ETRS Hi again, OK, I looked up the camera manual (didn't think of that before, D'OH!). Listed as a PE lens is the 100mm macro; it is *not* the same as the 105mm macro. Unfortunately it does not say whether the 100mm does 1:1 without an extension ring but at least I think the messages we saw about the E and PE lenses being the same are referring to the older E and PE macro, not the new 105mm version. You probably new that! Funny you should say that about filters. I have a cokin system (i.e. lots) of filters for 35mm but only UV for ETRS. You've started me now, I must look for some filters.... Bill
From: "ajacobs2" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Bronica Lenses Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 PE is the latest version of the ETRsi lens series and considered excellent pieces of glass. The 75 or normal should be very reasonable on Ebay if not... For deals on new go to Delta International on the web.. They are grey market but at 50% of anyone elses prices. Al Jacobson Website: www.aljacobs.com
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format From: [email protected] (Wilt W) Date: Fri Apr 26 2002 [1] Re: Bronica Lenses what the letter designations mean on Bronica lenses? I see PE,MC.EII MC lenses are synomous with 'first series of any focal length for ETRS'. Some lenses when thru redesign and are known as E-II, like the 75mm, 150mm, and 500mm. Then the entire series went thru redesign and the lenses were all fitted with 1/2 EV coupling to AE prisms, and they were improved for contrast especially if used wide open and shooting into the sun...and known as PE. --Wilton
From: "Mike" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: ETRS lense Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 Look thru the back of the camera with the shutter set at a 1/8 and see if the shutter opens everytime you press the release. The flash failing to go off may be an indication that the shutter is not opening every time or in some cases that the shutter is not cocking fully OR the the cam the trips the shutter is not rotating each time. There is a set of contacts in the shutter that fire the flash. Mike www.mfcrepair.com "David D" [email protected] wrote... > I have an ETRS with the standard lense. Recently, I've noticed that I'm > getting irregular flashes. Frame 1 flash, frame 2 no flash, frame 3 flash > etc etc. I tried synch cords but no luck. then I put on my trusty 40mm and > everything is fine. I purchased a mint 75mm and tried it and perfect flash > everytime. so my question to you guys is: Is there something in the lense > that controls the actuation of the flash? If so what should i tell my repair > guy because this lense is going to the shop unless it's a user type repair > that can be made?? > [email protected](DAVID)
From: "Rick Rieger" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: New to MF advise on ETRSi Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 Neal, Congrats upon getting into medium format! I'm not sure what you mean by a "star effect on the prism", but this sounds like a viewing issue only and should have no effect on your images unless the problem prevents you from focussing or composing properly. I don't know how much it would cost to fix this, but my guess is at least US$190 from Tamron. All current Bronica SLRs (as well as some other brands) do not have an instant return mirror, so your viewer will go black after every exposure. I haven't found this to be too much of an issue. It could be if you're shooting sports or fast action, in which case 35mm is probably the better choice anyway. Check out the back and insert for signs of wear, or better, ask your friend how many rolls have been through the back. The backs on Bronicas need overhauling after heavy use. The result of a worn back is poor frame spacing. If your Velvia test roll has even spaced frames (no overlaps), you're fine. The only other difficulty I've come across involves the lens shutter. The problem is that a cam or part in the lens shutter that develops resistance due to wear or perhaps dried out lubrication. When you press the camera shutter release the camera body has to move the shutter activating pins on the lens mount so the shutter will open. When the shutter is open, it is then electronically timed by the camera. The resistance of the lens shutter activating pins become worse in colder weather. What happens is that the camera is unable to move the lens activating pin to its firing position. The camera locks up You can check this for this condition yourself. Put the camera with lens ready to fire in a sealed large ziplock type bag and put the whole thing in the refrigerator for several hours. Take out the camera still in the sealed bag and try to trip the shutter. If it fires, you're probably OK. If not, the camera will hang. Let the camera warm up (still in the bag) and it should right itself. Here's another less chilly way to test for this condition: Remove the lens and depress the little spring-loaded lever on the side of the lens mount and at the same time rotate the shutter actuating pin(s) on the back of the lens mount. Pushing in the little lever will let you rotate the pin or pins (the GS-1 has one pin, the other models have two I believe). If you feel much resistance, the shutter may need repair. As you rotate the pins, the shutter will fire at the end of the rotation at its mechanical speed (1/500 sec). Release the little lever and then rotate the pins back to the starting position. I had a few GS-1 lenses that needed repair in this department. Tamron, in New York state, fixed them beautifully and quickly, but not too cheaply (US$190 per lens). I found out later that a local repair shop would have done the job for about half the price. Hope this helps. Rick Rieger ...
rec.photo.equipment.medium-format From: "BernieK" [email protected] [1] Re: Medium format zooms Date: Sun Aug 25 2002 I have two zooms for my Bronica ETRSi and their optical quality is excellent. Weight and filter size (95mm) are another matter. Can't have it all, I guess! ...
From: "Mike" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Used Bronica ETRS question Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 The weak point in any magazine system *is* the magazine, if possible run a roll of film through the camera then have it developed, look for even frame spacing along the length of the roll. Remove the magazine, set the shutter speed to 1 or a half second and switch the camera to the multi exposure mode. Looking through the back of the camera check to see if the shutter opens every time you cock the body press the release. Check each lens. I do agree with RD, have a shop who knows Bronica gear check everything out. "Rumpis" [email protected] wrote > I am a 35mm user now, but interested to go into a medium format. > Yesterday I found one used Bronica ETRS with three lenses - 50mm, 75mm and > 150mm. What to look at? How to check the camera and lenses? What are the > weak points of Bronica, if any?
From: [email protected] (kevin_i) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: bronica 35mm film back for etr-si Date: 14 Sep 2002 I have the 135W film back for the SQ series... but perhaps the loading is the same? 1- Open the film back 2- Pull down on the rewind crank at the bottom of the film back 3- Remove the insert from the film back 4- Feed the film through the slot on the left side (as you look at the back of the insert) 5- Insert the leader into the takeup spool on the right side of the insert and wind a little bit of film onto the spool so that it won't slip off 6- Put the film cannister into its chamber and wind the takeup spool to take up any slack 7- Put the insert back into the film back and push up on the rewind crank 8- Close the magazine, attach to camera, wind on until frame one Hope this helps. -Kevin "Steven Polansky, Photographer" [email protected] wrote > I bought a film back with no instructions, and it's a really confusing > dilemma.. I cant seem to figure out the right way to load the darn > back.. Does anyone have an instruction book I could read and maybe learn > to use this thing?? > > Steve
From: Roger [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Question for Bronica SQ-AI users Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 Marc wrote: > Just a quick question, > > I know that Bronica SQ-AI cameras use an Air shutter release. Is this the > only shudder release on them, or can you use a standard cable release as > well. If it's like the ETRSi then there is a "standard" cable release socket BUT it's fussy about what type of cable release it accepts. I had to buy an �18 one - none of the cheaper ones seemed to have the right diameter pin to actually fire the shutter. We tried more than one body and they're all like it. -- Roger
From: Paul King [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Quality of Bronica 2x Tele converter E for Etr series Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 I have taken the same shots with both my 150 (MC) and with the 2x on the 75 (EII), to test it for just that. As you surmise, the seems 150 is better, but not by a lot. The shots are all excellent, differences appear marginal. FWIW Fred Turko wrote: >I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this teleconverter and >could comment on sharpness, especially in combination with 75 mm EII lens. I know I would get better results with a 150mm lens, but can I get acceptable portrait results with this combination? Paul King Kingston, Ontario, Canada
From bronica mailing list: Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 From: [email protected] Subject: Re: portrait lens for etrs 6.45 [email protected] writes: > . kenmore > camera has a 150 3.5 and a 250 4.4, which would give me my best > results as im used to 35mm. The 250 leaves you a bit too far from your subject for really pleasing perspective, but with a close-up extension you can get tight headshots and still retain a nice working distance and perspective. 150 is nice for waist level, but gets a bit close and personal for some on the tight headshots with extension tube, and also can interfere with light placement when working in close. 180 is considered by some to be ideal. Think this way, and it can guide your lens selection...1.5x your favorite focal length on 35mm camera in shooting the same types of shots (remembering, of course, 35mm's long aspect ratio frame size!) The placement of lights (with formalized medium format portraiture, vs. more 'casual' or 'candid' portraits with 35mm) does paly a part in the decision. --Wilt
From: "Mike" [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Bronica ETRSi & Older Motor Drive? Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 The adjustments were made to the winder. The switches that controlled the winder are located in the winder it's self. A cam in the winder had to be adjusted to stop the winder at the point when the body was fully wound. Adjusted to far one direction the winder would attempt to over wind the body, to little the winder would stop short of a full wind. In 25 years of repairing Bronica I never found the base plate to be a problem, this is the first I've heard of it. Some where I have the adjustment instruction from Bronica if you wan to try adjusting the winder. Mike www.fridaycreekcamera.com "Mark" [email protected] wrote... > Mike - > Thanks for the info. > > What type of adjustment had to be made? Was it to the drive or the body > itself? > I've heard that the baseplate could be ground out for a better fit, but that > seems a bit drastic, considering the precision machining of the camera > itself. > > I'll probably move up to the newer drive style, but I'd still like to know > what mods are necessary for the drive I have. > > Your input is appreciated > > Mark
From: Roger [email protected] Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: Newly into medium format from 35mm Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 Brad Benjamin wrote: > I guess what I should have asked is more like - Is there anything I should > watch out for with the Bronicas? Any known pieces that go out easy or need > maintenance more often? I guess I didn't really mean what I asked earlier. > I am very happy with the Bronicas and love the results. I was just > wondering if there are problems with these that I need to keep an eye out > for? Yes. The backs can wear out so the frames start to overlap (irregular frame spacing is normal though!). Keep an eye on them, but good s/h backs aren't expensive if repair costs seem excessive. Also bear in mind that it is rather expensive to repair the lens shutters as Bronica always insist on replacing the whole Seiko shutter - they won't supply parts to repair just the bit that's broken. At least the camera isn't out of action while one lens is being repaired. -- Roger
From bronica mailing list: Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 From: [email protected] Subject: Re: 50mm MC versus PE lens "Don OBrien [email protected] wrote: >If the >150mm is any indication of typical MC performance, I think I >would be delighted with the MC version. What is the general >consensus? I can only make an indirect observation. My first Bronica ETRs had a very old 75mm lens (the one with the 58mm filter thread). I sold this to my son and now have an ETRsi with 150mm MC, 75mm PE and 40mm MC. In practice the difference in peformance between the two 75mm lenses is very difficult to determine, certainly in terms of sharpness. FWIW I prefer the handling of the MC lenses to the PE ones. Regards John Gruffydd (Mold, Wales, UK)
From bronica mailing list: Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 From: [email protected] Subject: ETR manual and differences was RE: New Member Hi, There is a manual for the ETR model at http://www.butkus.org/chinon/bronica_etr/bronica_etr.htm which may help. The list of differences between the ETR models is on the Tamron website www.tamron.com and you can order a new manual from them if necessary. Bill
From: [email protected] (Wilt W) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Date: 19 Mar 2003 Subject: Re: Bronica film back identity ETRS I had thought that the model with the grey handle to dark slide and crank handle was said item. I'm now beginning to think that some of the black ones are also to this later spec. It seems that some backs with crank handles also have black slide handles. First generation: one latch, winding knob Second generation: two latches, crank on knob, black handle darkslide Third generation: two latches, crank on knob, metal tab on gray handled slide to serve as interlock to prevent photog from 'shooting' with the dark slide in place (this could be inadvertantly foiled by dark slide slight out of full-in position!) --Wilt
From: [email protected] (Wilt W) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Date: 18 Apr 2003 Subject: Re: Bronica ETR vs Pentax 645 vs Mamiya 645E Today I heard from three sales people who are knowledgeable (photographers on the side) that Bronica non-multicoated lenses are soft. What a lotta cr*p. If you look at the Bronica P, PS, E, or PE lenses, they ALL are multicoated!!! Maybe the old Bronicas had non-MC lenses, but I doubt it. The PS and PE lenses (especially wide angles) are less susceptible to flare when used wide open, but sharpness was never much of an issue. Sellers will say almost anything to naive buyers. Do your homework so you're not fooled by lying sales guys. --Wilt
From: [email protected] (drsmith) Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.medium-format Subject: Re: ETRSI advice Date: 18 Jul 2003 daniel [email protected] wrote: >Hi, I'm trying out an ETRSI I have on loan, but do not have an >instruction book. I have picked up a lot of information on this >newsgroup already, but I'm still a little puzzled. > >I'm using the camera with a waist level viewfinder, and I'm having a >little trouble selcting shutter speeds. Is it possible to manually >select the shutter speed when using a waist level finder, or is it >only possible when using a prism finder?? > >At the moment, the camera seems to be firing at only one speed, which >i assume is 1/500 sec. I had a new batery put in the camera as well, >so I can't put this down to an expired power source. Does this mean >that the camera doesn't work properly, or am I missing something >obvious here??? Is there a button I have to press to activate the >shutter speed selector, or do have to switch the camera on, for >example??? > >also, is there somewhere on the internet where I can view a >instruction book for this camera, or any dedicated websites which >could fully explain its use to a novice like myself? Or would I have >to pursue the photocopies for sale route? > >The person I have the camera on loan from is on holiday, and rushed >through the camra operations as though they were all obvious, which i >suppose would be the case for someone who has used one for years. I'm >really pleased, though, to see such a friendly exchange of information >here, and hope someone can help answer my query. > >Thanks >Daniel On the ones I've seen and used, you just turn the dial to whatever shutter speed you desire. Makes no matter what finder your using or what lens or back. There's an LED near the lower left edge of the finder(when using the waist-level) that should come on briefly when the camera is fired. Also near the shutter speed dial is a push button switch that will cause the light to come on. If it lights up, the battery is working fine. There is no power switch on this camera since it only uses power when the shutter is being fired - during the exposure. If you set the shutter on 1 second and it still fires at 1/500th(the default when the battery isn't working), then it's quite likely the lens isn't making proper contact with the body. If you take the lens off, you should see a series of contacts(NOTE: Don't take the lens off of the body unless the body is cocked for the next exposure). Make sure they're clean, remount the lens and try again. Either way though, I'd contact the rental store where you got the gear and ask them about it. If you try to fix it yourself, you may end up being accused of breaking it and being responsible for the resulting charges. --drsmith
From bronica mailing list: Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 From: "franco" [email protected] Subject: Bronica ETR camera manual http://www.butkus.org/chinon/bronica_etr/bronica_etr.htm
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